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OF ALL THE 

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Of interest in 

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and Utah, 

Including 
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3DE:sCX2.X2="riT7-E C^-'X.ii^XjCt3--CrE E-IESEE. 



For a condensed description of the 

KANSAS PACIFIC RAIL WA Y, 



-NOW KNOWN AS THE- 



"Kansas DiYision" I Union Pacific Railway, 

THE COUNTRY THROUGH WHICH IT IS BUILT- SEE PAGE 48 



FOR A FULL DESCRIPTION OF 



COLORADO, 

Its Railways, Agricultural Resources, 

Mines of (5old,SilYer,an(l other Precious Metals 

ITS WATERING PLACES, GRAND SCENERY, ETC., 



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Utah's best crop. 

Photographed from life, by Savage, Salt Lake City. 



CROFUTT'S 

New Overland 

TOXJPIIST, 

AND 

PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 

CONTAINING A CONDENSED AND AUTHENTIC DESCBIPTION OF OVER 

One Thousand Three Hundred Cities, Towns, Villages, Stations, Govern- 
ment Fort and Camps, Mountains, Lakes, Rivers, Sulphur, 
Soda and Hot Springs. Scenery, Watering Places 
and Summer Besorts; avhere 

To look for and hunt the Buffalo, Antelope, Deer and other game; Trout Fishing, etc., etc. Jji fact, 

to tell you what is worth seeing — ivhere to see it — irhere to go — how to go — and 

whom to stop ivith while passimi over the 

]}m\ KANSy^S, CEf(Tf|AL /ND SOUTHEl^N P/CIFIC I|^AlLI|Oy^DS, 

Their Branches and Connections, by Bail, Water and Stage, 

FROM SUNRISE TO SUNSET, AND PART THE WAY BACK; 

Through Nebraska, Wyoming, Utah, Montana, Idaho, Nevada, California, 
Arizona and New Mexico. 

Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1883, by Thk Overland Publishing Co., in the 
office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 



B^" &P:0. ^. CROFXirT, 

AUTHOR OF "GREAT TRANS-CONTINENTAL RAILROAD GUIDE," "CROFUTT'S TRANS-CONTINENTAL 
tourist" AND "CROFUTT'S GRIP-SACK GUIDE OF COLORADO." 



OMAHA, NEB. AND DENVER, COL. : 
THE OVERLAND PUBLISHING COMPANY 



Sold by News Agents on the Railroads, at News Stands and at the Book Stores throughout the 

United States. 
Barkalow Bros., General News Agents, Union Pacific Railway and Branches ; Missouri, Kansas & 
Texas R. R. ; Kansas City, Ft. Scott & Gulf Railway ; Ti'aasti? Cjty, Lawrence & Southern Railway. 
Bailroad News Co., on Atchison, Topeka & Santa h'e; ihe lieurfJ it Rio Grande, and BurUngton 
& Missouri in Neb. 

Eli S. Denison. General News Agent, Central and Southern I'ar^iflc Railroads ; General 
Agent fur the Pacific Coast, Sjioxaifiouto ajid San Frap-jisco. 

■ ■' ■ I 






k. •« Ki\ • i^ 



A 




^-^'" tOlJrtlO-f. , _ ^ _' 15th Volume— 1883. 



i PREFACE. 



With the world as the book of nature, God as the author, and the Bible 
as a preface, the precedent for wiiting a preface is established; and woe 
be £o the Scribe who ignores precedent and custom— he could not live on 
this planet. 

At the present day the preface of a book is read by the public— if at all 
—in the light of an apology, wherein the author is expected to explain, 
first, why he did not do better, and, second, why he wrote at all. 

First— We have spared neither time, pains nor money to make this a 
perfect book. Our statements are concise, plain, unadorned, and, we be- 
lieve, truthful in every particular. Yet we should shudder at the charge 
of being absolutely perfect. 

Second— We wrote this book for Money and Love. For money to help 
the poor. For love of the far western country— the land of the "Golden 
Fleece." For love of its broad plains and lofty mountains, its free pure 
air, healthful climate, magnificent scenery, unrivalled resources, and its 
unaffected, whole-souled people. 

We have taken the traveler with us— in a chatty way— on the longest 
trip ever attempted by any author in any guide book in the world, and 
have recorded a telegram of the most important facts and items of inform- 
ation in a trip of over 15,000 miles by rail, steamer and stage coach. We 
have passed over the longest railroad line in the world, the broadest plains, 
the loftiest mountains, the finest agricultural and grazing lands, and the 
most barren deserts ; we have climbeti from sunrise to eternal snow, only 
to glide down into perpetual summer, and the orange groves and vine- 
yards of the "Land of the Angels." 

We have crossed a level prairie 500 miles in width, then over the most 
rugged mountains, with frightful chasms almost beneath us, 2,500 feet in 
depth; and through 100 miles of snow sheds and tunnels. Again, we have 
stood beneath a dome rising 6,000 feet above our heads, and trees 400 feet 
in height, and 48 feet in diameter; nave strolled amid the redwoods, where 
they grow so thick that were they felled the ground would be covered to a 
depth of sixty feet. W6 have passed through the celebrated Echo, Weber, 



Mlcf he 



7^J i^ 

over" the greal 
Jthe Bit\ 

tpiui's Slide" a\ 

S.^ta^ dfuf^^.^t^^th j( 



Colorado desert, around 

r and over the Gree^i and 

d the great "Sink" of the 

|ts of boiling suli^hur on 

but landing safely at the 



Humboldt and 
"Cape Horn "an 
Black waters, ech 
Desert; descend 
either hand, and 
Golden Gate. 

The scenery dn tnis route has been the most varied ; we have S,2-i2 feet 
above, and 366 feet below sea level; have taken our breakfast amid the 
eternal snow, and our supper in a land of perpetual summer, and have 
glided down from far above "timber line" into a region of continuous 
bloom, where the luscious fruits ripen each day' of the year. 

The author first began his explorations of the Trans-Mississippi coun- 
try in 1860, as a "Pilgrim," and upon the completion of the Pacific railroad 
line, wrote the ^rsi descriptive guide of the roads— from actual observa- 
tion— the " Great Trans-Continental Eailroad Guide " of 1869 : Soon "Cro- 
futt's Tourist" followed, the publication of which was continued thereaf- 
ter. The popularity of these books was so great that the sale aggregated, 
in fourteen years, over 500,000 copies. 

The present book describes more than four times the extent of coun- 
try of any book heretofore published, and is'profusely illustrated by nearly 
100 beautiful engravings, most of which were photographed, designed, 
drawn and engraved expressly for the author of this work. It also con- 
tains the best and viost complete map— in colors— ever published, the plates 
of which cost over $4,000. 

Annex— A department in the back part of this book, originated by the 
author, under which will be found a mass of condensed information, indi- 
rectly pertainingto the subject-matter of this work; and under which also 
contains descriptions of the large, double-page illustrations. 

From the first issue of our book, in 1869, imitators have been numer- 
ous ; no less than thirty-one " Guide-books," "Tourists' Hand-books " and 
"Books of Travels across the Continent," etc., etc., have been issued, most 
of which were compiled in the East— without their compilers traveling over 
one foot of the route, or, at least, not spending more than a few days on 
the road— while we have spent the best part of every year since 1860 ac- 
quiring the information— every item of which we are prepared to verify. 

To some "correspondents "across the continent our books have proved 
an unusual " God-send," enabling them to minutely describe the wonders 
of the trip passed in the night, while sleeping soundly in a palace car, 
equally as well as though they were awake and in perpetual daylight. 
Now we do not mean to complain of these experimentei's, as they are 
doubtless "good fellows," but we do expect the courtesies usually ex- 
tended by all honorable writers. 

GEO. A. CEOFUTT. 
Denver, Colo., March 1883. 



See TIME TABLES— from page 2G2 to '27-i. 



INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS. 



targe View^s. 

No. 

American Progress 1 

Big Trees, Fallen Monarch. 5 

Cape Horn, Columbia Biver 10 
Castellated Kocka at Green 

River 2 

Fort Point, Golden Gate 4 

Falls of the Yellowstone 8 

Falls of the Williamette 9 

Mirror Lake, Yo-Seniite. . . . 12 

Mt. Shasta, California 15 

Nevada Falls, Yo-Semite. . . 13 

Sutter's Mill Bace 3 

Steamboat Bock, Echo 6 

Summit Sierras 14 

State Capital of California. . 16 
San Francisco and Surroud- 

ings 18 

The Geysers, California 17 

Valley of the Yellowstone.. 7 

Wood Hauling in Nevada. . . 11 

Illustrations. 

Page. 

American Biver Canon 130 

Bee Hive Geyser 21 

Burning Bock Cut 75 

Big Mule Team 28 

Brigham Young 8J 

Brigham Young's Eesidenoe 97 

Bloomer Cut 108 

Before the Bailroad ILS 

Bird's Eye xiev/ of the 'Loop' 214 
Bird's Eye View of Plains . . 13 
Crossing the Truckee Biver. 73 
Cacti Giganti 235 



Page. 

Crossing the "Loop" 215 

Cattle Brands 254 

Crossing the " Bange " on 

Snow Skates GO 

Devil's Slide,Weber Canon.. 33 

Dale Creek Bridge 37 

Down the W eber Biver 46 

Donner Lake Boating Party 98 
Devil's Gate, Weber Canon.. 75 

Eagle Bock Bridge 110 

Eagle Gate 109 

Entering the Palisades 106 

Eureka 150 

Finger Bock, Weber 42 

Forest View, Foot Hill 99 

First Steam Train 56 

First Mountain Express.... 152 

General Offices U. P 23 

"Giantess," Geyser 113 

"Giant" Geyser 146 

Hanging Bock, Am. Fork. . . 15 
Hanging Bock, Echo Canon.. 26 

High School, Omaha 29 

Humbolt House 138 

Hydraulic Mining 158 

Interior View Snow Shed ... 72 
Interior View Mormon Tab- 
ernacle 85 

Indians Watching the Pacifle 

Bailway • 233 

James Bridger 77 

Leland Standford, C, P. B. B 114 
Looking up at Cape Horn. . . 160 

Livermore Pass Tunnel 177 

Missouri River Bridge 22 

Monument Bock, BlackHills 44 
Mormon Temple 92 



Pagh. 

Mormon " Holiness to the t 

Lord" Ql 

Map of Boutes in California 120 
Orange Grove and Palms ... 10 

Overland Pony Express 151 

One Thousand Mile Tree. . . 84 

Profile Map U. P. By 35* 

Packing to Virginia City. . . . 115 
Palisades of the Humboldt.. 58 
Pricky, the Horned Toad... 81 
Pulpit Bock, Echo Canon... 83 
Profile Map of C. P. ti. B. . . 117 

Palace Hotel . . 189 

Bounding Cape Horn 159 

Sidney Dillon. U. P. By 17 

Seal of California 150 

Steamer "Solano" 186 

Summit of the Mountains. . . 55 

Seals and Sea Lions 65 

Snow Galleries 67 

Starvation Camp 71 

Snow Sheds 143 

Seal Bocks & Pacific Ocean. 195 

San Pedro's Wife 223 

Three Tetons 19 

"The Grand," Geyser 104 

The Santa Bitas 239 

T^he Last Spike 118 

The Maden's Grave 133 

Truckee Biver 136 

Utah's Best Crop.. Frontispiece. 
Union Depot, Kansas City. . 48 

Union Depot Hotel 20 

View of Salt Lake City 69 

Yo-Semite FaUs 101 

Yucca Palm 221 



GENERAL IKDEX. 



Cities, Towns, Villa- 
ges and Stations. 

Page 

Acampo 176 

Acton 218 

Adams 43 

Abilene 53 

Adonde 233 

Agate 56 

Alpha 130 



Page. Page. Page. 

Athlone 210[Benton 31 Bronco 150 

Anaheim 224|Benicia 187 Brigham 106-116 

Atkins 44 Bennington 108 [Bridgeport 185 

Applegate 163 Bernal 204JBiggs 169 

Archer 45|Berenda 211 Bryan 75 

Arcade 16o|Be-o-wa-we 133 Bridger 78 

.\royo 56 Bethany 178iBrighton 173 

Argenta 134 Barro 197|Brown's 140-145 

Arimo 109 .Big Spring 39jBrookville 54 

Armstrong SOlBingham 93iBrowni5on 41 

Alameda 181' Aspen 79! Bitter Creek 70:Brule 39 

Ahla 213 Auburn 164,Bishoi)S 12GiBuckeye 170 



Alpine 218 

Alda 34 

Alta 95-157 

Alkali 39 

Altamont 179 

Alder 62 

Ahna 80 

Alvin 27 

American Fork 96 

Ames 31 

Andrews 220 

Andersons 144-170 

Antelope, Neb 43 

Antelope, Cal 16; 

Antioch 172 

Antioch Station 179 

Anita 170 



Austin 135 Black Buttes 70 Buda 34 

Aurora 6^1 Biack Bock 102 Buck Creek 51 

Bautas 178,Bxackfoot Ill Bunker Hill 54 

Bakersfield 213! B.oomfleld loaBullion 129 

Battle Creek 109 jBiL.e Creek 116|Burns 44 

Battle Mountain 1351 B ue Canon 157] Butte 112 

Batavia 185 Bosler 39 Buford 57 

Barton 40 Bowie 241 Bushnell 43 

Bavaria 53 Bovine 123 Burlingame 204 



Baxter 71 Box Springs 130 

Bealville 216 Box Elder 56 

Belmont 204 Boise 122 

Bennett 50 Bonneville 116 

Beaver Canon Ill Boca 150 

Belle Marsh 109 Borden 211 

Belvoir 5liBrady Island 37 

Benson 239 Brainard 27 



Buena Vista 162 

Byers 56 

Cabazon 229 

Carson 147 

Carlyle 55 

Carquinez 137 

Cachisa 240 

CaUstoga 197 



GENERAL IND E X. — Con tinned, 



Cities, Towns, Villa- 
ges and Stations 

continued. 

Page. 
Call's Fork 106 



Page. 

David City 27 

Darrance 54 

Dana 65 ! Gey serville 

Decota 180IGerard 



Page. 

Gannett 38 

Gardner Pass 131 

200 
21' 



Calieute 2.6 Deeth 125 Gibbon 3-i 

Cana 170 Demiug 242GiIaCity 232 

cactus 230 Deer Creek 98 Gila Bend 234 

Castle 176|Deep Wells 130|Gilmore 25 

Camas Ill Denver Junction 40 Gilroy 207 

Cameron 217 Desert 142iGolconda 137 



Cannon 18; 

cascade 156 

castle Rock 82 

Castro\ Ule 208 

Carlin 128 

carter 77 

carbon 64 

Carbondale, Kan 51 

Carbondale, Cal 175 

Carnadero 207 

Casa Granda 236 

Camjitonville 163 

cedar Point 56 

cedar 125-131 

central City 32 

CenTerville. . 

Cbappel 41 

Cliurch Buttes 76 

Clieyenne WeUs 55 

C'lieyenne, Wy 45 

Chico 109 

Cbualar. 



De-wey^-iUe 106 Gold Hill 

Detroit 53 Gold Run 158 

Devil's Gate 86 Gospel Swamp 225 

Diamond 131 Gorham 54 

Dixon 185, Goshen 212 

Dillon 112 Grainfleld 55 

Dix 43 Granite Point 140 

Dexter 39| Grayling 112 

Downeyville 163 Grinnell 55 



Donahue 198 

Dutch Flat 157 

Dragoon Summit 240 

Dos PalmOS 230 

Downey 224 

Draper 96 



Duncan's Mill.s. 



Grangers 76 

Grants ville 51 

Green River 72 

Grass Valley 162 

Gridley 169 

Greenville 67 



Duncan 32 

Dunham 169 

Echo 83 

EdwardsviUe .50 

Eagle Rock ... .< .... Ill 

208| Ellis, Cal 179 

Chapman, Kan 53jEgbert 44 

chapman, Neb 32!Edson 65 

Cicero 175: El Casco 229 

Charlestown 24o!EUis,Kan 54 

Clarkston 107 Ellsworth 54 



20.3- Granite Canon 57 



Cisco 157 

Clay Centre 52 

Clarks.Neb 32 

Clarks, Nev 144 

Clear Creek, Cal 170 

Clear Creek, Neb 27 

Clipper Gap 163 

Clifton 52-107-241 

Cloverdale 200 

Clyde 52 

Cluro 1.32 

Colliugston 107 

Colver 5 

C. H. Mills 159 

Colfax 161 

Colorado Junction . . 56 

Coin 137 

Coyote 36 

Contention : 240 

Como 64 

Concordia 52 

Colusa 171 

Columbus 31 

Colton, Neb 41 

Colton, Cal 228 

Croydon 85 

Cooper i^ake 63 



Grand Island 32 

Gurnevville 200 

Hallviile 70 

Half-way House 103 

Hallack 126 

Hamelton 131 

Hampton 77 

Hamlet 202 

Harney 59 

Harrisvillo 105 

Hai'psr's 63 

Havens 32 

Havward's ISO 

Hay Ranch 129 

Havs 54 

Healdsburg 200 

Hendrev 37 

Hillsdale 44 

HiUiard 79 

Hoge 50 

Hollester 207 



Elko 7.... 12 

Elk Grove 175 

Elm Creek, Neb 35 

Flm Creek 54 

Ehnu-a 185 

Elk horn 26 

Emigrant Ga]j 157 

Empire, Nev 147 

Emory 82 

Essex 1.50 

E vanston 80i Honey ville 106 

Evans, Nev 129IHooker 170 

Eureka 1.31-1*8! Hot Springs 142 

Ewing 167!Howard 203 

Fairfield 185jHowells 03 

Fermont 50 Huffakers 144 

Farmington 88 Humboldt 130 



Flowing Wells 230 

Florin 1^5 

Fink's Springs 230 

Fillmore 68 

Folsom 173 

Fort Harker 54 

Fort Riley 52 

Fort Fred Steele 66 

Fort Saunders CI 

Fowler 212 



Corinne llOjForest City 163 



Cornwall 179 

Cottonwood 170 

Council Bluffs 16 

Cozad 36 

Cheston, Cal 185 

Creston, Wy 68 

Curtis 183 

Cucamonga 228 



Frauktown 14 

Franklin 108 

Fremont, Neb 2' 

Frisco 102 

Freeport 172 



Hugo : 56 

Huron 212 

Button's 63 

Hj-dePark.; 108 

Hyrum 107 

Idaho, Idaho 122 

Independence 124 

Indio 229 

Iron Point 137 



Page. 

Kansas City 49 

KaysvUle 88 

Keen 216 

Kearney Junction. _. 34 

Kelton 122 

Ringsburg 212 

ii.ings ville 52 

Kinney's 51 

Ivit Carson 56 

Knights Landing. 171-183 

Kress Summit 162 

Lake 122 

Latham 70 

Laramie 61 

Lake View 145 

Lava Siding Ill 

Lawrence, Kan 50 

Lawrenceburg 52 

Lake Point 103 

Lang 219 

Lathrop 178 

Leavenworth 50 

Lehi 96 

Lenape 50 

Lewistown 108 

Leroy 78 

Lerdo 213 

Lincoln, Neb 27 

Lincoln 166 

Linwood 50 

Li verm ore 179 

Little York 158 

Little Cottonwood. , . 93 

Live Oak 169 

Lockwood 32 

Lodge Pole 41 

Lodi 176 

Logan 108 

Lomo 189 

Lookout 03-147 

Loray 124 

Lordsburg 241 

Lorenzo 180 

Loring 50 

Los Angeles 220 

Lovelocks 140 

Lucin 123 

Maracopa 234 

Madera 211 

Madroue 206 

Malad 127 

Mammoth Tank 230 

Manhattan 52 

Market Lane Ill 

Martinez 179 

Mariposa 210 

Marston 76 

Marysville 167 

Matlin 122 

Maxwell 37 

Mayfield 205 

:McCounells 175 

McPhersou, Kan 53 



lone 175|McPherson, Neb 37 

lUinoistown 161 Mead 27 

Iowa Hill 161 ! Medicine Bow 64 



Jossleyn 36 

Jordan 93 

Juab 101 

Julesburg 40 



Davisville 183lGarfield . 



Fresno 212j Junction, Poseville. 164 

Fulton 200 Junction Citv, Kan. . 52 

Gait 175 Junction, Cal 201 



103 Junction, Utah . 



Medina 51 

Melrose, Cal 181 

Melrose, Mon 112 

Menlo Park 205 

Me-uo-kew 52 

Meudon 107 

Mercede 210 

Mercer 27 



GENERAL INDEX. — Continued 



Cities, Toiviis, Villa- 
ges and Stations. 

continued. 

Page. 
Mescal '23'.) 



OrovUle 1(57 

Osino 127 

Otto .56 

Mesquite '.:30,Otego 124 

Michigan Bar l7:5jOvertou 35 

Midway 1'. 9 O.xford 107-109 



Page.; Page. 
Oreana 140i Ross Fork lU9;st. Gaorge. 



Page. 
51 



Milbra 204 

MUlard 2(i 

Milf ord, Kau 52 

Milford, Utah 101 

MQlCity 139 

Mill Station 145 

Millis 80 

MillviUe 107 

Mineral 130 

Mil-age, Colo 50 

Mirage, Nev 142 

Miser 03 

Mississippi Bend 172 

Modesto 210 

MoneU 70 

Monida Ill 

Mojava 217 

Mono 100 

Montello 123 

Monterey 208 

JVIontpelier 1U8 

Monument 122 

Moore's 124 

Moore's Summit 50 

Monte 227 

Moleen r28 

Mokelumne 175 

Morano 210 

Morganville 62 

Mound House 148 

Murphys 195 

Mystie 150 

Katividad 224 

Nadeau 217 

Napa 196 

Nevada, Cal 163 

Napa Junction. . .185-196 

N. E. Mills 163 

Newton 107 

Newhall 219 

Newport 224 

Newman 51 

New Castle 164 

New Cambria .53 

Nelson 169 

Nephi 101 

Nichols 36 

Niles Junction 04 

Niles 180 

North Platte 38 

North Bend 31 

Nord 170 

North San Juan 103 

Norwalk 224 

Oakland, East 182 

Oakland, 'Wharf 189 

Oakland 182 

Oak Knoll 197 

Oakville 197 

Odessa 35 

OTallons 39 

Ogalalla 39 

O&den, Kan 52 

Oj,den, Utah 87 

Olema 202 

Omaha 23 

Ombey 122 



Painted Rocks 234 

Palisade 129 

Pantauo 239 

Paja,ro 207 

Paradise 107 

Paris 108 



Roscoe 

Rossville 52 

Rozel 121 

Rve Patch 139 

Rutherford 197 

Russel 54 

Savanna 227 

SaltLake 90 

Sacramento 165 

Santa Monica 221 

Santa Ana 224 

Santa Clara, Cal 205 



Payson liioi Santa Cruz 205 

Paddock 32 Santa Rosa 199 

Plum 3(.lsan Lcaudro 180 

Papillion 25 San Pablo 188 



Peru 75 

Petaluma 199 

Petersons 80 

Percy 64 

Pequop 124 

Perry ville 51 

Peko 126 

Pinole 188 

PortNeuff 109 

Pasadena 225 

Piedmont 79 

"icacho 230 

Pilot Knob 230 

Pine Station 130 

Pino 104 

Pino Bluffs 43 

Puente 227 

Piute 137 

Placerville 17J 

Pleasauton 180 

Pleasant Grove 99 

Pluiu Ci-eek 30 

Pomona 227 

Point Rocks 70 

Pottrr 42 

Proctors 150 

Prosser Creek 150 

Provo 99 

Providence !• i'_ 

Promontory 11 < 

Pyramid 211 

Q iiarry 116 

Raspberry 1.^9 

Raveua 219 

Rawliug (■7 

Reeds 17 

RedButtes i 



San Simon 241 

San Bruno 204 

San Miguel 204 

San Gabriel 220 

San t'ernando 220 

San Francisco 190 

San Juan, S 207 

Han Juan, N 163 

San Rafael 201 

San Quintin 201 

San Jose 206 

San Joaquin 227 

San Mateo 204 

SanUiego 224 

San Juan Capistrano 225 

San Bernardino 228 

San Gorgonio 229 

Salida 210 

Salt Wells 71 

Salina, Kan 63 

Sahnns 208 

Sandy 94 

Salvia 144 

Sargents 20' 

Santaquin. . . 100 

Sand Creek 218 

Seco 1-22 

Sesnia 170 

Si'paration 68 

S.'iiulvfda 220 

Sfiitinel 231 

Seven Palms 22;i 

Schuvler, Colo. 

Schuvler, Neb 31 

Sheridan, Cal 167 

Sheridiin, Kan 55 



Sherman .• 57 

Redwood City 20 1 Shoshone 134 

Redding 170ShadyRun 157 

RedBluffs 170 Silver Lake 52 

RedDesert 70|Shelton 34 

Red Dog 1.58 Silver Creek 32 

Red Rock 112-236 Silver City, Ner 148' 

Reno, Kan 50 Silver City, Idaho . . . 122 ' 

Rono.Nev 144]Siegel 51' 

Rio Vista 172j Sidney 41 

Riverside 27-111-228 Silver Station 148 

Richmond 108-24(1 Sinipson 64 

Richland, Kan 51 Soledad 209; Yuba Station 1(37 

Killito 230, Soto 170| Yuba City 168 

Ripon 210:Solon G8| You Bet 158-1(52 

Rose Creek 139!Sonoma 198 Youtsville 197 

Rock Creek 63 Springfield 108|York 100 

Rock Springs, Kan.. 54 Springville 100 Valaparaso 27 

Rock Springs, Wv... 71 Spring Hill Ill j Valley Ford 202 

RoclUin 164 Spanish Fork 100 Valona 187 

Rogers 31, St. Mary's 52; Vallejo Junction .... 187 



39, St. Helena 197 

Stevenson 35 

Stein's Pass 241 

Steamboat Springs . . 145 

Storms 162 

Stormsburg 27 

Stockton, Cal 176 

Stockton, Utah 104 

Stone House 137 

Stranger 50 

Strong's Canon 155 

Spach-a 227 

Stauwix 234 

Suisi^n 185 

Solomon 53 

Solano 187 

Summit, C.P 1.5.5 

Summit, U.N 107 

Sumner 213 

Summit, E. &P 131 

Summit Siding, Kan 54 ' 
Summit Siding, Neb 25 

Sunol 180 

Swan Lake 109 

Table Bock 70 

Tamarack 157 

Tamalpais 201 

Taylors vUle 202 

Tecoma 123 

Tehamma 170 

Tennants 206 

Terra Cotta 64 

Terrace 123 

Tehachapi 217 

Texas Hill 2.34 

Thompson 196 

Thayer 71 

Thumel 32 

Tie Siidng .59 

Tipton, U. P 70 

Tipton, C. P 213 

Tiblow 50 

Tooele City 103 

Tomales 202 

Tombstone 240 

Toano 124 

Tocoluma 202 

Toltec 236 

Topeka 51 

Tortuga 230 

Tonganoxie 50 

Truckee 150 

Tracy, U. P 44 

Tracy, C. P. 178 

Transfer Grounds. . . 20 

Tres Pinos 207 

Tremont 184 

Tryone Mills 203 

Tucson 236 

Tulasco 126 

Tulare 213 

Tule Ii7 

Uintah 86 

Yuma City 246 



GENERAL I N D E X , — C on t i nu e d . 



Cities, To^vIls, Ailla- 
ges ami Stations. 

continued. 

Page. 

Valley 27 

Vallejo 185 

Verdi 150 

Vina 170 

Virginia Dale 80 

Visalia 212 

Vista 144 

Virginia Citv, M 113| 

Virginia City, N 148 

Victoria 54 



Page. 

Wa-Keeney 53 

Walker 54 

Wakefield 52 

Wallace 5-1 

Wamego 52 

Wadsworth 142 

Wasatch, Wy 81 

Wasatch. Utah 94 

Wash-a-kie VO 

Washoe 145 

Wahoo 27 

Waterloo 27 

Watsonville 207 

Wan en Sfi 

Washington 183 



Weber Quarry. 

Weber 

Webster 

Walters 

Wells 

Wellsville 

Weston 

White Pl.aius.. . 

Wheatland 

Whitney 

Wild Horse 

Winnamncca.. . 

Wilmington 

Windsor 

Willard 



Pag If . 
... 107 

... 8G 
. .. 183 
... 229 
... 125 
... 107 
... 107 
... 142 
... 167 
... 106 
... 56 
... 137 
... 223 
... 200 
... 105 



Page. 

Wilkins 71 

Willai-ds 129 

Wilcox 64-240 

Williams, Mon. , . 111-184 

Willow Island 36 

Wood's Crossing.. .. 89' 

Wier 40 

\yillson's 54 

Williamson 51 

Wolcotts 66 

Woodland 183 

Wood Kiver 34 

Wyoming 58 

Wyandotte 50 

Yuma 230 



U. S. Forts and Camps 

Page. 

Omaha Barracks 24 

Camp at Sidney 42 

Camp Lowell 2.38 

Camp Bowi 240 

Ft: Kearny 84 

Ft. McPherson 37 

Ft. Douglas 92 

Ft. Sedgwick 40 

Ft. Morgan 43 

Ft. D. A. Russell 46 

Ft. Larimie 46 

Ft. Fetterman 46 

Et. Casper 40 

Ft. Reno 46 

Ft. Phil. Kearney 46 

Ft. C. F. Smith 46 

Ft. Saunders 01 

Ft. Yuma 231 

Ft. Fred Steele 06 

Ft. Bridger "T 

it. Halleck I'-^ti 

Ft. Riley 52 

Ft. Harker 5-1 

Ft. Walaoe 55 

Ft. Hall Ill 

Mare Island 185 

Mineral and Medical .'(prings. 
HOT AND COLD. 

Pages 67, 71, 76, 79, 

" 89, 90, 90, 101, 

" 102, 105, 106, 112, 

" ....113, 127, 133, 134, 

" 137, 142. 145, 1.50, 

" 184, 190, 198, 199, 

" 200, 207, 209, 230, 

" 238. 

Kailroads. 

Page. 

American Fork 96 

Amadoro Branch 175 

Atchison, Topeka & Santa 

Fe 240-242 

Bingham Canon 93 

Burlington & Missouri 32-34 

Black Hills " 32 

Carbondale Branch 51 

Central Pacific 115 

Carson & Colorado 148 

California Pacific 183 

California Northern 167 

Denver & Rio Grande West- 
ern 67 

Echo & Pork Citv 83 

Eureka & Palisade 129 

Fremont & Rlkhorn 29 

Grand Island & bt. Paul Br. 33 



Page. 
Junction City & Ft. Kearny 52 

Kansas Pacific 40 

LosAngeles & Independence 221 
Leavenworta, Lawrence & 

Galveston 51 

Leavenworth Branch 50 

North Pacific Coast 200 

Northern 184 

Nevada Central 135 

New Railways 104 

Nevada County 101 

Oregon Short Line 70 

Republican Valley 27 

Sioux City & Pacific 27 

Santa Cruz 207 

San Pablo & Tulare 178 

SanFranciscoctNorthPacific 198 

Sacramento Valley 173 

Southern Pacific 203 

Stockton & Visalia 176 

Stockton & Copperopolis 176 

San Diego Railroad 224 

Salina & Southwestern 53 

South Pacific Coast 205 

St Joseph & Denver 33 

Solomon Railroad 53 

Union Pacific 18 

Utah Central 88 

Utah Southern 92 

Utah Western 102 

Utah & Northern 105 

Virginia & Truckee 144 

Wasatch & Jordan VaUey . . 94 

Western 100-104 

Wilmington Div 223 

Annex Index. 



No. 1 American Progress. . . 243 

2 Passage Ticket Mem. 243 

" 3 Baggage Check '■ 243 

" 4 Rates of Fare 244 

" 5 Our Western Country 244 

" 6 High School 248 

" 7 First Steam Train. . . 56 

" 8 TheMadroneTree... 164 

9 The Maiizanita 164 

" 10 Jack Slade 248 

" 13 Snow Difficulties 249 

" 15 State Capital of Cal . . 173 

" 10 Castellated Rocks... 72 

" 17 Memories of Ft.Brid'r 249 

" 18 Hanging Rock, Utah. 97 

" 19 Steamboat Rock 250 

" 20 Paddy Miles' Ride. . . 250 

" 21 Salt Lake 251 

" 22 •' •' 251 

" 23 Discov'v of Calif or'a. 226 



Page. 

No. 23 The Coast Range 226 

•• 23 The Rainy Season ... 226 
" 24 Hauling Ore in Hides 146 
" 25 Life of Bigham Young 251 

" 26 National Park 252 

" 27 Ocean Steamships... 253 
" 28 Col. Hudnut's Survey 253 
" 29 Western Stock Rais'g 254 

" 30 The Great Cave 255 

" 31 Nevada Falls 209 

" 32 Pioneer Mail 218 

" 33 The Donner Party. . . 256 
" 34 Roll 'Em Through .... 256 
" 35 Val. of theYellows'e. 257 
" 36 Falls " •' 257 

" 37 " " Willi'ette. 215 

" 38 Cape Horn 232 

" 39 Wood Hauling 232 

" 40 Mirror Lake 209 

" 41 Pony Exiiress 151 

" 42 Sierra NevadaMoun's 138 

,. 43 Mt. Shasta 214 

„ 44 Woodward Gardens . 257 

„ 45 The Geysers 184 

„ 46 Bird's Eye View 214 

„ 47 Ancient Ruins 257 

„ 48 Painted Rocks 2.58 

„ 49 Viewing Progress. . .. 2.58 

„ 50 Palace Hotel 2.58 

,. 52 "Pricikey" 126 

„ 53 Route to Y'o-Semite.. 184 
„ 55 The "Boss Cactus"... 184 
„ 58 Sacramento Depot. .. 173 
„ 63 Manmioth SnowPlow 126 

„ 04 Arizona 2.59 

„ 05 EmigrantSleepigCars 260 

„ 60 Black Hills R. R 261 

Miscellaneous. 

Page. 

Calaveras Big Trees 170 

Celifornia Windmills 175 

Down the Sacramento 172 

Excursions No. 1 193 

" 2 190 

" 3 198 

" 4 200 

" 5 203 

First Gold Discovery 174 

Hints 14 

Humboldt Well 125 

Laramie Plains 01 

Y'o-Semite Valley and Big 

Trees 212 

Montana 112 

New Alemaden Quick-Silver 

Mines • 206 

Sutro Tunnel 148 




Ocean to Ocean, 






OVERLAND. 



Aroundthe Circle. 



SuNKisE— As the city of Halifax, in 
the Province of Nova Scotia and Do- 
minion of Canada, is the extreme 
eastern terminus of tlie .a^rand system 
of Nortli American railways, which 
extend from its Atlantic portal across 
the continent 3,646 miles to San Fran- 
cisco, its Pacific brother, it would 
seem to be the most proper point in 
the East from which we should fir^t 
start on our journey with the tourist 
or emigrant for the same destination. 

At Halifax, the morning- sun, as it 
rises from its apparent cold water bath 
in the broad ocean on the east, casts its 
golden rays down upon the firat rail- 
track that spans a continent, and from 
the moment the light strikes these iron 
bands of civilization and progress, it 
seems to follow them up, step by step, 
through populous cities, over mighty 
rivers, across broad, treeless. ]>lains, 
and towering sno'w-.capped moun- 
tains, on, on! toward the tropical re- 
gions of the Orient. Every foot of the 
route, every object of interest or be- 
ing is minutely inspected, while roll- 
ing over to its daily bath, in the mighty 
Pacific Ocean of the West. Our course 
is in the same general direction, but 
our lime will be slower; as we shall 
linger by the Avay, and shall, after no- 
ting the principal routes east of tlie 
Missouri River, take the traveler with 
us over the Union, Kansas, and Cen- 
tral Pacific railroads to the Pacific 
coast— sunset; thence eastward over 
the Southern Pacific via Los Angeles, 
Yuma, Tucson, through Arizona and 
New Mexico, back toward sunrise, 



making agrand circle, one continuous 
run by rail of over 4,000 miles, which, 
with the numerous side tours by rail, 
steamer and stage, will comprise full 
15,000 miles of travel. 

Come along icith ris ! but first dis- 
card the dress-coat of style, and put on 
the wrapper of simplicity and ease; 
fill your purse with coin, open your 
eyes and let us learn something of the 
extent, riches, varied resources, gran- 
deur and -wonders of what was a few 
years ago known only as the " Great 
American Desert." 

We shall first take a run over the va- 
rious Eastern branches of the Union 
Pacific, the "Denver Short Line" in- 
cluded, interview the noted gold fields 
of the Black Hills of Dakota and climb 
to the summit of their namesakes of 
Wyoming, the highest station on the 
road, where we can look off into the 
great State of Colorado, with her mag- 
nificent mountain ranges, peaks, 
]>arks and mineral wonders. Then, 
after whirling over the broad plains of 
Laramie, we shall mount to the sum- 
mit of the"Eockies," and maybe, amid 
the clouds, stand astride the great 
Continental Divide. 

Descending, we rattle through the 
canons of Echo. Weber and the Devil's 
Gate to the land of Zion, where moth- 
ers-in-law and white-haired babies 
are in the majority. 

We shall glance at the resources of 
the territory and spin all over Utah by 
tlie various railroads, visit the noted 
mines, temples, tabernacles and Mor- 
mon wonders, ascend to the " Mount 



12 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



of Prophecy," bathe in the"Dead Sea," 
interview the famous soda and hot 
springs, snatch a rose from the garden 
of the Prophet, then bound away to 
the northward over the Utah & Noi'th- 
ern to Montana; again scalo the great 
mountain divide and take a peep at 
the Yellowstone National Park, the 
lakes, springs, geysers, waterfalls, etc. 
— the " Avonderland." 

We will stand by the spot V/'here the 
"last spike" was driven, which united 
the East and the West by iron bands, 
and over where the "ten miles of track 
was laid in one day;" we shall run 
along beside Salt Lake, — the great 
dead sea, — down the Humboldt, and 
over the Eureka & Palisade railroad 
to the Eureka and White Pine country 
The "Palisades," as well as the "Lake" 
and the " Sink " of the Humboldt will 
be visited, as also the "Reese Eiver 
Country," Nevada Desert, and the hot, 
spurting springs of Nevada. We shall 
visit the most noted silver country in 
the world — Virginia City, Gold Hill 
and Carson, via the Virginia & Truc- 
kee railroad; we will take a trip over 
Lake Tahoe and flsh in Conner; as- 
cend the Sierras and roll through more 
than fifty miles of snow sheds and tun- 
nels, one continuing for 28 miles. Then 
around " Cape Horn " and to the old 
mining towns of Grass Valley and Ne- 
vada, over the Nevada County Nar- 
row Gauge railroad, one of the finest 
in the world. We will take a run all ov- 
er California, visit the " Big Trees," 
Yo-Semite Valley, the " Geysers," 
" Redwood Forests," " Seal Rocks," 
"Quicksilver Mines, "Santa Cruz, San- 
ta Bai'bara, Monterey, Calestoga, and 
the grape vineyards and wine cellars 
of Sonoma and Napa counties. We 
will visit Mount Shasta and the Upper 
Sacramento Valley; Coloma, where 
gold was first discovered ; Mt. Diablo, 
the lofty peak of the Contra Costa,and 
Mt. Tamalpais, the huge sentinel of 
the Coast Range, at the Golden Gate, 
where we are apparently near sunset. 
After taking a hasty glance at Oregon 
and the Columbia River, we shall di- 
rect our course south and eastward, 
toxvard Sunrise, up the great San Joa- 
quin Valley, over the " Loop " of the 
" Tehachapie Pass," and out on the 
great "Mojave Desert," rolling down 
the infamous Soledad Cailon,— the 



"Robbers' Roost," — and through the 
San Fernando Mountains, out into the 
valley, and to the " city of the angels," 
Los Angeles, with its tropical fruits, 
orange orchards, and eternal summer. 

From Los Angeles we shall "take in" 
Santa Monica — a charming watering 
])lace — and around to Wilmington 
Harbor, where we can interview the 
"Woman of the Period." We will visit 
Santa Ana, San Barnerdino, Ana- 
hine. Riverside, and not forget the 
"Gospel Swamp." At San Gabriel we 
will find the oldest Mission building 
on the coast in ruins; where orange 
trees are over 100 years old and loaded 
down Avith the golden fruit. We will 
have a run through the great vine- 
yards and fruit orchards of this tropi- 
cal region, inspectthe mammoth cac- 
tus pads and the huge palm trees. 
"Progress" from this point turns more 
to the Eastioard. We will follow its 
track and pass over the San Barnerdi- 
no mountains, and descend into the 
" Great Colorado Desert," — rolling 
down, down to the sea level, where one 
would suppose " Progress " would na- 
turally stop, unless she had a boat or 
a diving suit ; but no, our train starts 
again downward; ye gods! down, 
down we go, under the sea level two 
hundred and slrty - six feet, where sul- 
phur springs, mud geysers, salt and 
many other kinds of springs— both hot 
and co/rf— are very numerous, forcibly 
reminding one of the " old version;" 
but, as our modern teachers have done 
away with that old "bugaboo," we sup- 
pose they would not hesitate to visit 
with us this remarkable and very in- 
teresting region, and — gather a speci- 
man. 

Let us see, we are living in a fast age ; 
the sun makes very good time, but 
"Old Sol" is aged, has run in the same 
old groove for too many years to re- 
tain muchof the spirit of Progress. It 
is within the memory of many, how 
Morse, with his lightning, beat the old 
luminary, and we are now "talking all 
around him." Steam on the rail is next 
in speed ; ' one mile a minute " is not 
uncommon. The trip from New York 
to San Francisco, a distance of 3,296 
miles, was commenced June 1, 1877, by 
Jarret & Palmer, on a special train, 
and the run made in 83 hours, r>3 min- 
utes, and 45 seconds, an average ol 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



w 




IS 1B2 



bird's eye view of the plains, from LOUP FORK RIVER. 1869. 



39 miles an hour including stops. Sol 
must look sharp, or steam will also beat him 
in the race. 

West to the Missour River — We 
shall not attempt a minute description 
of the various railroad and steamboat 
routes, east of the Missouri River. Each 
possesses its own peculiar attractions, a few 
of which will be briefly noted hereafter. 

Passengers from the Eastern Atlantic 
sea-board, contemplating a trip to the Pa- 
cific coast, or the trans-Missouri country 
bordering the great Pacific railroad, can 
have their choice of five through "Trunk 
Liaes," four American and one Canadian, 
which find their way by different routes, to 
a connection wiih the Union Pacific rail- 
road, on the east bank of the Missouri 



River, midway between Council Bluffs 
and Omaha. 

These five lin«s are the N.ew York Cen- 
tral and Hudson River railroad, the 
Erie railway line, the Pennsylvania 
Central, the Baltimore & Ohio railroad, 
and the Grand Trunk, of Canada. 

The railroad connections by these lines 
are almost innumerable, extending to al- 
most every city, town, and village in 
nearly every State and Territory in the 
United States and Dominion of Canada; 
the regular through trains of either line 
make close and sure connections with the 
Pacific road, while the fares are the same. 
Sleeping cars are run on all through trains 
— most luxuriant palaces. The charges 
are extra, or about $3 per day — 24 hours. 



14 



CKOFUTT S NEW OVEKLAND TOURIST 



Only first-class passengers cau procure 
Taerths in the sleeping cars. 

HINTS BEFORE WE START. 

1. Provide yourself T\-ith Crofutt's New- 
Overland Tourist, and then Le particular 
to choose such routes as will enable you 
to visit the cities, towns, and objects of 
interest that you desire to see, without an- 
noyance or needless expense. 
, 2. Greenbacks are good everywhere, so 
there is no longer any necessity of chang- 
ing them for gold. 

3. Never purchase your tickets from a 
stranger in the street, but over the counter 
of SDme responsible company. When 
purchasing tickets, look well to the date, 
and notice that each ticket is stamped at 
the time you receive it. Then make a 
memorandum on the blank in the Annex 
No. 2, of your Guide B<iok, of the name of 
the road issuing the ticket, destination of 
ticket, form, number of ticket, consecutive 
number, class and date. In case you lose 
jour ticket, make known the fact at once 
at the ofl3ce of the company, showing the 
memorandum as above described, and steps 
can be taken immediately to recover the 
ticket, if lost or stolen, or to prevent its be- 
ing used by any one else. By attention to 
such slight and apparently unimportant 
matters as these, travelers may recover 
their loss and save themselves much in- 
convenience. 

4. Before starting out, provide yourself 
with at least one-thii-d more money than 
your most liberal estimate would seem to 
require, and do not lend to strangers or be 
induced to play at tlieir games, y/ pou do, 
^ou will surely be robbed. 

5. Endeavor to be at the depot at least 
fifteen minutes befo'-e the train leaves, 
thereby avoiding a crowd and securing a 
good s(!at. 

6. You will need to show your ticket to 
the baggage-man when you ask him to 
check your baggage; then sea that it is 
properly checked, and make a memoran- 
dum of the number of the check in the 
blank of the Annex No. 3 ; this done, you 
will need to give it no further attention un- 
til you get to the iilace to which it is 
checked. 

7. Persons who accompany the con- 
ductor through the cars, calling for bag- 
gage to be delivered at the hotels or other 
places, are generally reliable, but the pas- 
senger, if in doubt, should inquire of the 
conductor, and then be careful to compare 



the number of the ticket received from the 
agent in exchange for your check, to be 
sure that they are the same. 

8. Do n t grumble at everything and 
everybody or seek to attract allenlion; le- 
member only boors and uneducated peo- 
ple are intrusive and boisterous. 

y. Remember this: "Please" and 
"Thanks" are towers of strength. Do not 
let the servants excel you in patience and 
politeness. All railroad employes are in- 
structed to be gentlemanly and obliging at 
all times. 

10. And finally — Do not judge of the 
peopl ? you mett |iy their clothes, or think 
you are going west to find foo s ; as a mil- 
lionaire nmy be in greasy buckskin, a col- 
lege graduate in riigs, and a genius with 
Utile of either, while in the breast of each 
beats an honest heart. 



For llatcs of Fare, see Annex No. 4. 
• o 

RotTTE 1. — From Halifax take the 
Inter-Colonial and Grand Trunk railways, 
through the Province of New Bruns- 
wick via Quebec, Montreal, Vict- ria 
Biidge, along the shore of the St. Law- 
rence River, Thousand Islands, and La 
Chine Rapids, Torouto, Hamilton, Niagara 
and Detroit, where connections are ni; de 
with routes 2 and 3. Another route is by 
Maine Central via Portland. and ^Ae/; the 
Grand Tru.di, or, via Boston and the 
Central Vermont and the Grand Ti unk. 

From Boston there are quite a num- 
ber of lines. One, as ahove described, is 
through Vermont and Canada; another is 
by the Boston & Albany railroad lo Al- 
bany, where connections are made with 
route 2 ; another is the new "Hoosac Tun- 
nel" route, through the mountain and tun- 
nel of that name, — 2'),081 feet in length, 
double track ; cost$16,000,0n0— cutthroi gh 
a mountain wdiich rises 1,900 feet ab' ve tlie 
track. This route is a very desirable one, 
passes through the entire len.lh of the 
Stale of Massachusetts, and connects w ilh 
route 2, at Troy, New York. Another 
line is via Springfield, or Shore Line, to 
New York city; or, you can take part 
'•rail" and the steamships on Long Island 
Sound, of which there are three first-class 
lines, comprising some of the finest boats 
in the world. 

From New York city, passengers who 
desire to visit Niagara— whose thundering 
cataracts, in volume of wateis, far surpass 
all other waterfalls in the known w^orld— * 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



15 




HANGING ROCX, AMERICAN FORK 

See Annex No. 13. 

may also view the great Suspension Bridge 
over Niagara River, wliicli, undoubtedly, is 
one of the finest structures of its kind in 
this country. They can have choice of two 
trunk lines. 

Route 2.— The New York Central & 
Hudson River line, passes up the glorious 
old Hudson, the magnificentriver upon the 
bosom of which Fulton launched his "ex- 
periment," the fii'st steamboat ever con- 
structed. This road is built almost on the 
river brink, upon the eastern bank, which 



slopes back in irregu- 
lar terraces, presenting 
from the car window 
one of the finest, if not 
the finest, panoramic 
view in the world. 
On the right are many 
small cities, towns and 
villages, with groves, 
parks, gardens, orch- 
ards, and alternate rich 
fields, with here and 
there, peeping out from 
beaeath the trees, the 
magnificent country 
villa of the nabob, 
the substantial resi- 
dence ot the wealthy 
merchant, or the neat 
and tasteful cottage of 
the well-to-do farmer. 
Then come the " Pali- 
sades of the Hudson," 
and then again a rep- 
etition of the beauties 
above described, while 
to the west of our train 
rolls the river, with 
numberless steamboats 
tugs, barges, small 
boats, and sailing ves- 
sels of all kinds and 
classes, while beyond, 
on the west bank, is 
spread out a succession 
of scenery not much 
unlike that seen on 
the eastern side. This 
line passes through 
Central New York, the 
"Garden Spot of the 
State," via Albany, — 
the Capital of the 
State, — Troy, Utica, 
Rochester, to Suspen- 
sion Bridge, Niagara, 
and Bulialo. 
The direct western connections of this 
route are at Suspension Bridge, with the 
Great Western and Michigan Central 
and at Buffalo witli the Canada Southern 
and the Lake Sliore & Michigan South- 
ern, via Dunkirk and Cleveland. 

Route 3.— The Erie railway line trav- 
erses the southern portion of the State of 
New York, via Binghampton, Corning, 
and Buffalo. The track of the Erie is 
the broad gauge ; the cars are very wide 
and commodious. This route affords the 



R.R.. UTAH. 



16 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



traveler a view, while crossing and re- 
crossing tlie Delaware, of scenery and en- 
gineering skill, at once grand, majestic, 
and wonderful. The direct western con- 
nection of the Erie is the Lake Shore 
& Michigan Southern, at Dunkirk and 
Buflalo; and the Canada Southern, at 
Bufialo— with the Great Western and 
Michigan Central, at Suspension Bridge ; 
and the Atlantic & Great Western, at 
Corry, Penn. 

Route 4. — The Pennsylvania Central 
line receives passengers in New York 
and Philadelphia, and conveys them the 
entire length of the State of Pennsylvania, 
via Harrisburg— the capital of the State, 
— to Pittsburgh, the most extensive iron 
manufacturing cityiu the UnitedStates. The 
landscape on this line, and especially while 
passing along the Susquehanna River, and 
the charming "Blue Juniatta," and over tie 
Alleghanies, presents scenery most grand; 
while the fearful chasms and wonderful 
engineering skill displayed at the "Great 
Horse-shoe Bend." and at other points, are 
second only to that displayed at "Cape 
Horn" on the Sierra Nevada mountains. 
At Pittsburgh, the Central connects with 
the Pittsburgh, Fort Wayne «& Chicago, 
— one of the h(st roads in this country — 
and also with lines, via Columbus and'ln- 
dianapolis, and St. Louis, or Cincinnati, 
Indianapolis and St. Louis. 

Route 5. — Is via the cities of Philadel- 
phia and Baltimore, by the Baltimore & 
Ohio. By this line, passengers are afibrded 
an opportunity of visiting the capitol at 
Washington, and thence, via Harper's 
Ferry, "over the mountains" to Wheeling. 
It is said by some travelers that the 
scenery by this line is unsurpai?sed by any 
on the continent. The weste-rn connec- 
tions are at Chicago, Cincinnati, and St. 
Louis. 

From Cincinnati passengers can have 
choice of several tirst-class competing 
lines, via either Chicago or St. Louis, or 
via the Burlington route — ^direct, via Bui'- 
lington, Iowa, where connection is made 
with the Burlington & Missouri, for Coun- 
cil Bluffs. 

From St. Louis passengers can take 
the "Wabash Line" direct, with ele- 
gant sleeping and dining cars, or the 
Missouri Pacific, via Kansas City, and 
the Kansas City, St. Joseph & Council 
Bluffs, via St. Joseph, Mo., and arrive 
at Council Bluffs. 
From Chicago there are four flrst- 



class roads. The Chicago & North- 
western was the first road built to the 
Missouri River, where the first train 
arrived Jan. 17, 1867, which route is via 
Clinton and Cedar Rapids. The Chica- 
go, Rock Island & Pacific road, which 
pas.ses through the cities of Rock Is- 
land, Davenport and Des Moines: the 
Chicago, Burlington & Quincy, via 
Galesburg and Burlington, form the 
"Burlington Route," and the Chicago, 
Milwaukee & St. Paul. These four 
roads are known as the "Iowa Pool 
Lines," and are equipped with all the 
modern improvements. Magnificent 
drawing room sleeping ears run with 
all through trains; also, dining cars, 
in which meals are served for 75 
cents. 

All trains from the East and South stop 
a few moments at Council Bluffs before 
l)roceeding to the Transfer Grounds, two 
miles further west. Let us take a look at 
Council Blaffs--This city is in the 
western portion of the State of Iowa, about 
three miles from the Miss )uri River, at the 
foot of the bluffs. It is the county seat of 
Pottawattomie county, and contains a pop- 
ulation of about 18,100. It is four miles 
distant from Omaha, Neb., with which 
city it is connected by hourly steam 
cars. The explorers, Lewis and Clark, 
held council with the Indians here in 1804, 
and named it Council Bluffs, it is one of 
the oldest towns iuAVestem Iowa. As early 
as 1846, it was known as a Mormon settle- 
ment, by the name of Kanesville, which it 
retained until 1853, when the legislature 
granted a charter designating the place as 
the City of Council Bluffs. 

The surrounding country is rich in the 
chief Avealth of the nation — agriculture. 
Council Blud's includes within her cor- 
porate limits 24 square miles. The buildings 
i.re good; the town presents a neat, tasty, 
and, withal, a lively appearance ; street-cars 
traverse the principal streets; churches 
and schools are numerous. The State in- 
stitute for the Deaf and Dumb is located 
near the city, to the soui beast. The Ogden, 
is the principal hotel, and the Daily Non- 
pareil, and the Daily Globe, are the prin- 
cipal newspapers. 

By a decision of the United States Su- 
preme Court, the eastern bank of the Mis- 
souri River is the terminus of the Union 
Pacific railroad. The terminus is now 
knoM-n as the Transfer Grounds. 



AND PACIFIC COAST Gtiue. 



17 




SIDNEY DILLON. 



Among the men of progress in America 
there will be found no name more dis- 
tinctly representative or more thoroughly 
in unison with the spirit of the age, than 
that of Mr. Siduey Dillon, President of 
tlie Union Pacific railroad, iiorn in North- 
ampton, Montgomery county, New York, 
on the 7th of "May, 1812 at which place 
his father was a well-to-do farmer, he 
came of sterling stock — his grandfather 
having been a Revolutionary soldier. 

From early childhood his life has been 
an active one, given almost wholly to the 
adv.mcementof the internal improvements 
of his country. Whe;i a mere lad, he c m- 
menced his railroad life as an errand boy, 
on the Mohawk & Hudson railroad — 
the first railroad built in his native 
State — running from Albany to Schenec- 
tady. (AnnexNo. 7, i)ag-e56.) He next 
entered the service of the Rensselaer 
& Saratoga — then we hear of him as over- 
seer of a contract on the Boston & Provi- 
dence, and several other roads. In 1838, lie 
took his first contract, ,',ud completed itwith 
profit in 1840, from whicli time his con- 
tracts have been very numerous. Amona: 
2 y ■ ^ 



th< .se was "Clay Hill," two miles from 
West Troy, on the Troy & Schenectady 
railroad Mr. Dii on next built twenty- 
six miles of the Hartford & Springfield, 
six miles of the Chtshier, and ten miles on 
the Vermont »& Massachusetts. Besides 
the above, he has been engaged in the con- 
struction of the Rutland & Burlington; 
Central, of New Jersey; the Morris 
canal; the Boston & New York Central; 
the Philadelphia & Erie; the Erie & 
Cleveland: the Morris & Essex; the 
Boston, Hartford <fc Erie; the Iowa; the 
New Orleans, Mobile & Chattarooga, 
the Canada Southern; the Union Pa- 
cific, and many others. The last great 
work upon which Mr. Dillon has been en- 
gaged is the "Four h Avenue improve- 
ment," New York. The contiact involves 
17,000,000, and is a work of great mag- 
nitude. Suffice it to say, that he has been 
engaged in over forty of the leading public 
works of America, and that the contracts 
with which lie has l)ei n enujaged have 
amounted to over |100,000';000. The 
career of Mr. Dillon teaches the lesson, 
that, at the hands of a man thoroughly 



18 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



conversant with his business, persevering, 
energetic, faitlit'ul to trust, upriiilit in his 
relations with his lellow-meu, sweeps is ture. 
In person, Mr. Dillon is tall, exceedingly 
well built, and couibiaes suavity of man- 
ner with great promptness of decision in 
action. He was married in 1841, resi- 
dence in New York City, and devotes 
his whole time to directing the interests 
of the 

Union Pacific iiaili'oat!. 

Official Headquarters, E. E. Build- 
ing. Omaha, Neb., aud 44 Equitable 
Building, Boston, Mass. 

Sidney Dillon, President, New York. 

Elxsha xV l'kins Vice President, Boston. 

H. McParland, .Sec. anclTveas " 

S. H. H. Clark Oen'l Manager, . . . Omaha. 

Trios. L,. Kimball iss't Gen. Manaq'r, " 

E. P. ViNiNG Freight Traffic Mg'r " 

J. \V. Gannett, Auditor,. " 

J. O. Brinkerhopf,. . Chief Engineer " 

Leavttt Burnham, . .LandCornm'r, " 

J. J. Dickey, Sajft Teh-graph, .. " 

P. P. Shelby Gev'lFieiglU Agent, " 

J. \V. Morse, a P. Ag.ent, 

S.B.Jones Ass't " 

C. S. Stkbbins Oer' Ticket Agent, " 

F. Knowland, General Eastern Agent, 

287 Broadway', New York. 
M. T. Dennis, Gen'l Agent for New England, 

Boston, Mass, 

Though but little faith was nttirst felt in 
the successful completion of tins great 
railway, no one, at the present day, can 
fail to appreciate the enterprise which 
characterised the progress aud tiual com- 
pletion of this road, its immense value to 
the Government, our own i)eople, and the 
world at large. 

By the act of 1862, the time for the com- 
pletion of the road was specified. The ut- 
most limit was July 1, lb76. 

The first contract for construction was 
made in August, 1863, but various con- 
flicting interests connected with the loca- 
tiim of the line delayed its progress, and it 
was not until the 5tli day of November, 
1861, that the ceremony of breaking ground 
was enacted at a point on the Missouri 
River, near Omaha, Neb. 

The enthusiast, Mr. Train, in his speech 
on the occasion of breaking ground, said 
the road would be completed in five years. 
Old Fogy could not yet understand Young 
America, and, as usual, he was ridiculeil 
for the remark, classed as a dreamer and 
visioniry enthusiast; the greater portion of 
the people believing that the limited time 
would find the road unfinished. But it 
was compk-tetl in three years, six months, 
and tea days. 



Most Americans are familiar with the 
history of the road, yet but few are aware 
of the vast amount of labor performed in 
obtaining the material with which to con- 
struct the first portion. There was no 
railroad nearer Omaha t-ian 150 m les east- 
ward, and over this space all the material 
purchased in the Eastern cities had to be 
transported by freight-teams at ruinous 
prices. The laborers were, in most cases, 
transported to the railroad by the same 
route aud means. Even the engine, of 70 
horsepower, which diives the machinery 
at the company's works at Omaha, was 
conveyed in wagons from Des iMoines, 
Iowa, that being the only available means 
of transportation at the time. 

For five hundred miles west of Omaha 
the country was bare of lumber s-ave a 
limited supply of cottouwood on the islands 
in and along the Platte Eiver, wholly unfit 
for railroad purposes. East of the river, 
the same aspect was presented, so that the 
company were compelled to i)urchase ties 
cut in JMichigan, Penu^ylvauia, and New 
York, whicti cost, delivered at Omaha, 
|2.50 per tie. 

Omdlia, at that time, 1863, contained less 
than 3,000 population, mostly a trading i)eo- 
ple, aud the railroad company were com- 
pelled to create, as it were, almost every- 
thing. Shops must be built, forges erected, 
all the machinery for successful work 
must be placed in position, before much 
progress could be made with the work. 
This was accomplished as speedily as cir- 
cumstances would permit, aud by January, 
1866, 40 miles of road had been constructed, 
which increased to 265 miles during- the 
year; aud in 1867, 285 miles more were 
added, making a total of 550 miles on 
January 1, 1868. From that time forward 
the wo k was prosecuted with greatly in- 
creased e-iCrgy, and on ]\Iay 10, 1869, the 
road met the Central Pacific railroad at 
Promontory Point, Utah Territoiy — Ihe 
last 534 miles having been built in a little 
more than fifteen mouths; being an 
average of nearly one and one-fifth mile 
per day. 

By arrangements with the Central Pa- 
cific Railroad Company, the Union in 
1870 relinquished to the Central 46 miles 
of road, and again in 1875, another strip of 
6 miles, leaving the entire length of the 
Uni<m, 1,032 miles, and its junction with 
the Central at Ogden, Utah. 

For Snow Difficulties, see Annex No. 13. 



CKOFUTT'S new overland TOUKIST. 



19 




20 



CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAXD TOURIST 




THE UNIOX PACIFIC DEPOT. 



The Transfer Crronnds— are 

about two miles west of Council 
Bluffs, and about half a mile east of 
the Missouri River Bridge. Here, 
allpassengers, baggage, express, and 
mails on arriving from the eastward, 
change to cars of the Union Pacific. 
A large fine building affords ample 
accommodation for i:>assengers, and 
for the transaction of all kinds of bus- 
iness connected with the transfer. 
The tracks of the eastern roads ter- 
minate at the eastern front. Between 
these tracks are long wide covered 
platforms along which passengers, 
mails, baggage, etc., reach the depot, 
and after passing through the build- 
ing, find the Union Pacific trains wait- 
ing on the west side. 

The Union Depot is a model of con- 
venience, built of brick with stone 
trimmings,— two stories. On the first 
floor are two large waiting rooms for 
ladies and gentlemen, ticket, telegraph 
and express offices, baggage and news 
rooms, restaurant, lunch counter, 
barber, etc. The second story of the 
building is divided into rooms for 
hotel accommodations, the parlors 
are elegant, the rooms, — 40 in num- 



ber — are very large, furnished in the 
best manner, with hot and cold water, 
gas, annunciators, etc. 

A "Dummy" train leaves the depot 
for Omaha every hour through the 
day, and horse cars from the south 
side of the depot for Council Bluffs, 
regularly. 

The £^}inijs]'aiit ESojsse— so-call- 
ed, is situated a short distance west 
of the Depot on the north side of the 
track. It was built by the Union Pa- 
cific Co., and is run by their direction 
for the accommodation and i^rotec- 
tion of their emigrant passengers. 
The building is of wood, has 70 rooms 
comfortably furnished, accommoda- 
ting 200 persons, and charges only suf- 
ficient to cover cost; plain, substan- 
tial meals, 25 cents each. 

The handling of the baggage at this 
depot is no small item. The baggage 
room is very large, as well as the num- 
ber of "smashers," but, as the latter 
are always under the eye of Mr. Tray- 
nor. General Baggage Agent of the 
road, the baggage is not only handled 
quickly but with ti fatherly care. 

Passengers will here re- check their 
baggage, and secure tickets in one of 



CUOFUTT S >"KW OVERLAND TOUIJIST 



21 



the Pai.ace Si-iii:rM.vo Cars that ac- 
companies all tliruiif^li trains, and ihere- 
by insure an opportunity for a refresh- 
infr sleej), as well as a jialace by night 
and day. 'J'his, however, eosts an extra 
fee. The charges are over the Union 
Pacific from Omaha, $8.00 ; from Ogden, 
over the Central racilic, to the racilic 
Coast cities, $t).oo. . Hut as all cannot 
afford to ride in palace cars, secure — 
pre-empt, if you please — the best seat 
you can, and prepare to be Jiappy. 

i;^">Sleepinir car aiul stop-over privil- 
eges are not allowed ou second and third- 
class tickets. [SeeNotiM). 149.] Ba.q;- 
gage can be checked only to the desti- 
nation of second and third-class tick- 
ets— 100 lbs. allowed free on each full, 
and 50 lbs. on each half-lifket of all 
classes. Extra bag,i;age is §10 to $15 
per 100 lbs. accoiding to class. Passen- 
gers holding lust-class tickets to San 
Francisco, with pie-i)aid orders for 
steamer i)assage to trans-Pacific ports, 
will be allowed -JoO lbs. baggage, free, 
on jjresentatiou of such orders to the 
baggage agent at tlie Transfer, or 
Omaha; on second-class tickets, l.'iOlbs., 
fice. Oi"ders for steamsliip passage can 
be purchased at tiie Transfer, or Omaha 
depot ticket ollices. 

For rates of Fare see Annex No. 4. 

Luxcii Baskets— Willi ouly two or three 
exceptioi'is, all the eating-houses on this 
line are gi^od The [/ood ones have our ap- 
proval, but tlie others— Oh! well-shoukl 
you provide yourself with a small basket 
of provisious, and use ii accordingl^y, it 
would tend to preserve your temper. The 
accommodatunis at all the iiriucipal sta- 
tious for those who wish to "stop over " a 
day or two, are ample; charges, trom.|3,00 
to $4.00 per day. 

Foil A Brief Sketch of Our Western 
Country — The Far \\est — Con- 
densed History — Organization of 
THE Pacific Railroap— Land Grant 
—Cost of Construction— Materiai^ 
Used — Importance op the Road — 
Facts in Brief— Grumblers - See An- 
nex No. 5. 

On:: Word More— As you rrj about to 
launch out upon th ; broad, sw: oping lains, 
the barren deser:, and the ^rand oia'inouu^ 
tains— for all these varied .eatures of ;..e 
earth's surface will be encountered before 



we reach the Pacific Coat — lay aside aZZ 
city prej udices and ways f i- the time ; leave 
them Ae/v, aud for once be wtural while 
among nature's loveliest and grandest crea- 
tions. Having done this, yow will be pre- 
pared to enjoy the trip — to appreciate the 
scenes which will rise successively before 
you. But, above all forget everytliing but 
the journej'; aud in this consists the g>eat 
secret of having a good time generally. 
Are you ready? — The bell rings, 'All 
aboard " is sounded, and our train leaves 
the "Transfer Grounds," and directs its 
course due west towards the 

Missouri River Bridge— The construe- 
tion of this bridt:e was first authorized by 
Congress on the 25th of July, 18 6, but very 
IiUle was done until March, 1868, when 
work commenced, and was continued from 
that time until July 26, 1809, when it was 
suspended. Xothing more was done until 
April, 1870, when a second contract was 
made with the .Xni'iican Bridge Company 
o: Chicago, and work again comm' need. 
On the 34th of February, 1871, Congr ss 
l)assed a special act authorizinu the Union 
Pacific Railroad Company to '-oustruct 
this bridge across the ^lissouri River, and 
to issue bonds lo the amount of $2,500,000. 
The countj^ of Douglas, Nebraska, voted, 
under certain conditions, aid in county 
bonds to the amount of |250,00G. Also, 
Pcttawattomie county, Iowa, voted, under 
certain conditions, aid to the amount of 
|;i05,000. 

This bridge is a notable structure (see 
illustration), one-half utile in length, with 
the approaches over one mile. 

It is located below the old depot, and op- 
posite that part of the city of Omaha 
liuown as "Train-Town," and has a single 
track. 

The bridge is known as a "Post's Pat- 
ent." The hollow iron columns are 23 in 
number, two forming a pier. The-e col- 
umns ure made of cast iron one-aud-three- 
fourths inches in thickness, 8)^ feet in di- 
ameter, 10 feet long, and weigh 8 tons each. 
They are bolted together air-tigh^, and 
sunk lo the bed-rock of the river, in one 
case, 83 feet below low-water. 

Alter these columns are seated on the 
rock fouudatiim, they are filled up twenty 
feet with stone concrete, and from the 
conc-ete to the bridge "seat," they are 
filled with regular masonry. From high- 
water mark to the bridge "seat," these 
columns measure 50 feet. The eleven 
spans are 25 J feet in length, making 



22 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 




MISSOURI RIVER BRIDGE — OMAHA IN THE DISTANCE, 



the iron part, between abutments, 2,750 feet. 
These columns were cast in Chicago, 
and delivered in the shape ot enormous 
rings, 10 feet in length. When they were 
being placed in position the workmen 
would take two or more rings, join them 
together, place the co'umn where it was to 
be sunk, cover the top with an air-lock, 
then force the water from the column 1)}' 
pneumatic pressure, ranging from 10 to 3."3 
pounds per square incli. The workmen 
descend the columns by means of rope- 
ladders, and fill sund-liuckets, which are 
hoisted through the airlock by a ])ony-en- 
gine. The sand is then excavated about 
two feet below the bottom of the column, 
the men come out through the air- ock, a 
leverage, from 100 to 300 tons, is applied, 
the pneumatic p'essure is removed, iiml 
the column sinks, from three inches to two 
and on. -ha f f et — in one ins'ance, the co'- 
umn steadily sank down 17 feet. When 



ever the column sinks, the sand fills in 
from 10 to 30 feet— in one instance, 40 feet. 
This has to be excavated before another 
sinking of a few inches can take place, 
making altogether a slow and tedious 
I rocess. 

Soon after crossing the bridge, our train 
stops in the Omaha depot — a large build- 
ing with one enormous span overhead, 
built in the most substantial manner, of 
iron and gliss with six tracks running 
through it from end to end. On the south 
side are ample waiting and dining-rooms, 
express, telegraph, baggage, ticket, and 
other offices. Passengers who wish to stop 
over, will find onnibuses at the depot to 
take them and their baggage to the hotels, 
or any point in the city ; fare, 50 cen's ; yr, 
they will find street cars on the north side 
of the depoi, that leave every liv: : inutcs, 
passing the princpal hotels, and running 
the whole length of the city ; fare, ■> cents. 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



23 




GENERAL OFFICES, UNION PACIFIC RAILWAY CO 



Omaha — This is one of the mosi 
progressive cities in the West. It is the 
county seat of Douglas county, situated 
on the western bank of the Mo. River, on 
a slope about 50 feet above high-water 
mark, with an altitude of 906 feet above 
sea level. The first "claim cabin" was 
built here in 1854, and the place named 
Omaha, after the Omaha Indians. 

It is related that the first postmaster of 
Omaha usod his hat for a postofflce.and 
many times, when the postmaster was 
uii LJie prairie, some anxious individual, 
would chase him fur miles until he over- 
took the traveling postoffice and re- 
ceived his letter. "Large oaks from little 
acorns grow," says the old rhyme, 'tis 
illustrated in this case. The battered- 
hat postoffice has given place to a first- 
class postoffice, commensurate with the 
future growth of the city, the last cen- 
sus giving a populatiou of 30,642. 

In 1875, the Government completed a 
large court-house and postoffice build- 
ing, using a very fine quality of Cin- 
cinnati free-stone. It is 122 feet in 
length by 66 feet in width— four stories 
high — cost $350,000, and is one of tlie 
most attractive buildings in the city. 



The State capitol 
was first located 
here, but was re- 
moved to Lincoln 
in 186 8. Omaha 
thougli the first set- 
1 1 e m en t made in 
N ebraska,is a young 
city. The town im- 
proved steadily un- 
til 1859, when it 
commenced to gain 
very rapidly. Tlie 
inaugurating of the 
Union Pacific rail- 
road gave it another 
onward impetus, 
and since then the 
growtii of the city 
has been very rapid. 
There are many evi- 
dences of continued 
l)rosperity and fu- 
ture greatness, one 
of which, is the fact 
that there are no 
dwelling houses in 
the city "To Let;" 
yet the records show there were over 
S2,000,000 expended during 1881 in new 
buildings and city improvements. 

Omaha is the headquarters for half 
dozen railroads, has three daily pa- 
pers, the Herald, Bee and Republican, 
besides several periodicals; a grand 
opera house and several large first- 
class hotels building (with 36 small 
ones in operation). The amount of 
jobbing business, banking, packing, 
manufacturing, grain and produce 
handling, etc., done in Omaha is im- 
mense and rapidly increasing. There 
are twenty-four churches in the city 
and numerous i)ublic and private 
schools. The Omaha people are proud 
of their jnthlic, .schools. The city has 
near $.500,000 invested in free school 
property. 

The High School is the finest build- 
ing of its kind in the Western country, 
and stands on Capitol Hill, on the site 
of the old State House, the highest 
point in the city, ami is the first object 
which attracts the attention of travel- 
ers approaching from the East, North, 
or South. Its elevation and command, 
ing position stand forth as a fitting 



24 



CKOFUTT S KEW OVERLAND TOURIST. 



monument to attest a people's intelli- 
gence and worth. [8ee Annex No. G.] 
To the north of the High School 
buildingisthc Crt'ighton College, just 
completed at a cost of $55,000, with a 
further endowment of $100,000 the gift 
of Mrs. Edward Creighton. The Iniild- 
ingis54 by 126 feet — three stories and 
abasement — capable of accommodat- 
ing 480 pupils. It is ii free school and 
CGiiducted 1 7 the Jcsr.it Fathei- 





BDE HIVE, OR FAN GF.YSER, YFLI.OWSTONE PARK. 



Omaha has a beautiful driving park, 
known as Hanscom Park, the gift of 
Mr. A. J. Hanscom and Mr. Jas.&. Mc- 
Gath. It is situated about one mile 
southwest from the center of the city, 
contains 80 acres, is in as romantic and 
picturesque a locality as one could 
wish, with a perfect forest of shade 
trees and beautiful walks, fountains, 
etc., and, in fact, is "a thing of beauty," 
and to the citizens of Omaha, we be- 
■'^^ lieve, will be a joy "for- 

>^ ; Omaha is headquar- 
, ters of lheDe]uirtment 
.: of the Platte. Fort Om- 
5 aha Avas established in 
1 1 8(j8 ; the barracks are 8 
iin number capable of 
'accommodating 1,000 
I men. They are situated 
I ;j miles north and in full 
I A iew of the city. Lati- 
1 tudo, 40 deg. 20 min.; 
j longitude, 96 deg. from 
I Greenwich. E i g h ty 
j acres of land are held 
"-) as reserved, though no 
; I reservation has yet 
-! been declared at this 
: post. There isan cxcel- 
; 1( I'.t carriage-road to 
I the barracks and a fine 
■; d rive around t h e m , 
■ A^hich affords pleasiire 
! ] iiirties an excellent op- 
( portunity to witness 
/jtlie dress-parades of 
' the "boys in blue." It is 
a favorite resort, the 
p.-.iade, the fine drive 
and i]n]>ro vemen ts 
around the place call- 
ing out many of the fa- 
shionable ]ileasure- 
scekers. The grounds 
ai e planted with shade 
trees, and in afew years 
will become one r>f the 
1 many i)leasant i)laces 
' around Omaha, 

The post is the main 
distributing point for 
all troops and stores 
destined for the "West. 
These b a r r a c k s 
were erected for the 
purpose of qnarter- 
ing the troops during 



CROFUTT S KE"\V OVEKI^ANJ) 1 OURIST 



25 



tlic winter season when their services were 
not required on the plains, and as a gener- 
al rendezvous for all troops destined for 
that quarter. 

Besides the Union Pacific, there are two 
oilier rail roads that branch oU'fr. ni Omaha. 
The Omaha A: Northern Nebraska, and 
the Burlini^lon and Missouri in Neliraska. 
These roads were chaitered under the gen- 
eral railway act which gave two thousand 
acres of laud lor every mile of road coni- 
])leted before a specified time. The route 
of the Northern is five miles up tlie Mis- 
souri River Valley, then northwest to 
the valley of the Papillion, thence to the 
Elklioru River, and up thcElkhoni Valley 
to tlie mouth of the Niobrara. It is now 
completed, and cars are running to Teka- 
mah, Burt counter— about ."^O miles from 
Omaha. At Blair connections are made 
wiih tlie Sioux Ciiy & Pacific railroad. 

iue roLueof tueii. di.Jsi. ii. It. lu .Neu. 
Branch, is down the Missouri River Valley, 
where it crosses the Platte and runs to 
Lincoln. This road is under the manage- 
ment of the Burlington & Missouri River 
Railroad Co., and makes close connections 
at Orepolis with the main line of the B. & 
M. for the Eus^ and West. 
. At Omaha, are located the generhl offi- 
ces of the Union Pacific Ra'lroad Com- 
pany, in a fine, large buil ling jut com- 
pleted and fitted up iu the mo.~t complete 
and convenient manner. Tliis company 
employs about 9,00() men; this inciii<!es 
th(! men enip'oyed iu the Laramie rolling 
mill and in the coa! mines. There aie 
about 5,000 enijiioyi d on the road proper , 
there are 2.050 empli^yed iu the slaops 
at Omaha and abou', 800 more in the vari- 
ous ollices, at stations, on the track, and at 
the depots at Omalia, making near 
3,000 in all on the Omaha pay rolls. 

About one mile above the bridge, on the 
low lands frontmg the river, the railroad 
conipmy have located their principal 
shops and store-houses. They are built of 
brick, iu the most substaiiiial form, and 
with the outbuildings, lumber yard, tracks, 
etc , cover about rJO acres of ground. 

The machine shop is furnislied with all 
the Licw and most improved machinery, 
which is necessary for tlie successful work- 
ing at all ihe braDches of car and loc 'mo- 
tive repairs or car construction. The 
round-house conta'-ns ~0 stalls; the 
foundry, blacksmith shop, car and paint 
shops, are constructed and furnished in 
the best manner. The company manufac- 



ture all of their own cars. The passen- 
ger cars, iu point of neatness, finish, 
strength of build and size, are unsurpassed 
by any and livaled by few maniitactured 
elsewhere. It is the expressed determina- 
tion of the Uuitin Pacitic Company to pro- 
vide as good cars and coaches for the trav- 
eling public in st le and finish as those of 
any Eastern road. They reason, that as the 
great trans-continental railroad is the long- 
est and grandest on the coninent, its roll- 
ing-stock should be( quallv grand and mag- 
nificent. From the appearance of ilie cars 
already manufactured, they will achieve 
their desh-es. On the same principle, we 
pro^wsed to make our Book superior to 
any other. Haven t we done no? 

«S" [For time, distances, altitudes, 
.etc., see Table in back of book.] 

Our train runs alon.q- through the 
southern suburbs of the city, on an 
ascending- grade, 3 2-10 miles to 

^iiiBiniit JSitlnsg-— a flag station, 
where trains seldom stop. Elevation, 
1,142 feet, 176 higher than the Omaha 
de])ot. But our route is now down- 
ward for G 3-10 miles to 

^IliMOie— The country aroimd this 
sla'iou is rich p airie land, well cnltivated. 
A small cluster of bui dings stands near 
the road ; thestation is of liitle importance, 
merely for local accommodation. 

Continuing our descent 5 miles, we reach 

Papilliosi (Pap-e-o)-Here we are at. 
Ihe lowest elevation on the whole line, 
excepting Omaha, which is 6 feet lower. 
From this s at'on to Sherman, on the 
Bhick Hills, 535 miles, it will be a grad- 
ual up-grade, rising in the distance 7,270 
feet. 

Papillion is the county seat of Sarpy 
county and has the usual county buildings, 
some of which are fine structures. The 
Times, a weekly paper, is published here. 
The station is on the east side of Papillion 
River, a narrow stream of some 50 miles 
in length, which, running southward, 
empties into Elkhorn River, a few miles 
below the station. The bridge ovtr the 
stream is a very sulistautial wooden struc- 
ture.. The country about the station has 
been improved very much within the last 
few years; it has fitlly doubled its popu- 
lation, which is now about 1 ,000, and evi- 
dences of thrift appear on every hand. 

Soon alter leaving the station, we cross 
the Papillion River, and 6 4-10 miles brings 
us to 



26 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 




ilAXGING ROCK, ECHO CANYOX, UTAU. 



Millard— au unimportant station to tiie 
tourist, is situated in the midst of a fine 
agricultural section — two stores, a flouring 
mill and hotel; population about 300. 
Eight miles further, we come to 

Elkhorn— which is on the east bank 
of Elkhorn River, and of considerable im- 
Ijortauce as a point for freight traffic— it be- 
ing the outlet of Elkhorn River valley. 

Er.KHORX River— is a stream of about 
300 miles in l^ngih. It rises among tie 
hills of the Divide, near where the head- 
waters of the Niobrara River rise and wend 
their way toward their final destination, 
the Missouri. The course of Elkhorn 
creek, or river, is east of south. It is one 
of the fev/ streams in this part suitable for 
mill purposes, and possesses many excel- 
lent mill sites along its course. The valley 
of this stream averages about eight miles 
in width, and is of the best quality of 
farming land. It is thickly settled by Ger- 
mans for over 200 miles of its length from 
its junction with the Platte Riv-er. The 



stream aboun'ls in nitive fish, a.s well as a 
great variety of "fancy brands" from the 
East — a car load of which were accidently 
emptied into the water at the bridge, while 
en route to be placed in the lakes and 
streams of California, during the spring 
of 1873. 

Wild turkeys on the plains, and among 
the lotv hills, along with depr and antelope, 
atibrd sport and excitement for the hunter. 
The river swarms with ducks and geese at 
certain seasons of the year, that come here 
to nest and feed. The natural thrift of 
the Settlers is manifested in his well-con- 
ducted farms, comfortable houses, sur- 
rounded by growing orchards and well- 
tilled gardens. There is no pleasanter val- 
ley in Nebraska than this, or one where 
the traveler will find a better field for ob- 
serving the rapid growth and great natural 
resources of the Northwest; and should he 
choose to pass a week or more in hun^jng 
and fishing, he will find ample sport and a 
home with almost any of the settlers. 



CKOFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



27 



'^Vaterloo — two miles from Elk- 
horn, is a small side-track station 
where i:)assenger trains seldom stop. 
It has a flouring mill, store, school 
house, and some neat little cottages 
of well-to-do farmers. 

VaHe.'» — is 4 3-10 miles further, and 
shows a marked improvement within 
the last few years ; there are a score of 
new buildings in sight ; elevation, 1,-^ 
147 feet. The curious who wish to note 
the elevation — station by station — are 
referred to the " Time Tables" atback 
of the book, where the figures will be 
found for each station on the whole 
line of road. 

Omaha Jk. Republican Valley 
Branch-leads off southwesterly from 
Valley, and is completed to Stroms- 
burgh, 90 miles distant. 

The road crosses the Platte Kiver on 
a pile bridge 2,200 feet long, enters 
Saunders county,crosses the river bot- 
tom, and reaches Cle.\r Creek, the 
first station from Yalley, seven miles 
distant. 

Passing on over ..a. rolling prairie, 
five miles further, we come to 

Mead — This is a small place, com- 
posed of thrifty farmers. 

Wahuo — seven miiles further, is the 
county seat of Saunders county. It is 
situated on a broad plateau, in the 
midstof a farming country, where they 
raise 60 bushels of corn, 50 bushels of 
oats, and 25 bushels of wheat to the 
acre, and other crops in proportion. 
There are three flouring mills in the 
town. The court house, school and 
other buildings are very good. Near 
the town is located one of the finest 
fair grounds and race tracks in the 
State. The Wahoo house is the prin- 
cipal hotel. 

Leaving Wahoo, the face of the coun - 
try becomes more rolling, and after 
crossing Wahoo Creek and making a 
run of eight miles, we reach Weston, 
still young, but a prosperous little 
place, from Avhich it is eleven miles to 
Valparaiso — another small place of 
four stores, a hotel and school house, 
situated on Oak Creek, on which is 
some very fine land, as well as large 
groves of oak. 

Brain ARD— comes next,thirteen miles 
frnm Valparaiso, after rolling over nu- 
merous cuts and rough country. Ten 
miles more, and wo arrive at 



David City— county seat of Butler 
county. Population about 300. There 
are four churches and several schools. 
The Saunders house is the principal 
hotel. 

From David City it Is ten miles to 
KisiNos, seven to Shelby, seven to 
Osceola and five to Stromsburg. The 
^IJneoin Krancli— leads off from 
Valparaiso, nine miles to Kaymond 
and ten miles to Lincoln, the Capital 
of the State. 

Mr. S. H. H. Clark, Gen. Manager 
of the Union Pacific, is President 
of both of the above named roads, 
and it is understood they are owned 
by the Union Pacific ]>a'rties, under 
whose management they are con- 
ducted. 

We will now return to Valley, and 
proceed westward. 

From Valley the Bluffs on the south 
side of the Platte Elver can be seen in 
the distance, but a few miles awav,ia 
a southwesterly direction. Soon after 
leaving the station vv-e catch the first 
glimpse of the Platte Piiver, on our 
left. Six miles further over the broad 
plain brings us to 

iTlercer — an unimportant station, 
from which it is five miles to 
Fremont— the county seat of Dodge 
county, situated about three miles 
north of the Pliitte River, and contains 
a population of about3,50(». The regu- 
lar ]iassenger trains on the " Over- 
land" route i^top here 20 minutes for 
dinner, lioth from the east and west. 

The public buildings include a jail 
and court-house, seven chvirches, and 
some fine school houses. Also a fine 
opera house. Ten vears ago we said: 
"It was a thriving i)lace in the midstof 
a beautiful country." Now it is a cih/ 
of no mean pretentions. Within the 
past ten years there has been built 
nearly 1,000 dwelling houses, with 
stores of all kin<ls in proportion. 

Fremont suii ports several newspa- 
pers and hotels, and is the shipping 
point for a large amount of grain, hay 
and live-stock raised in the country 
to the northward. 

Tne Sioux City & Pari Tie Ptailroad 
connects hi>re witli the I'nion Pacific 
and runs through to JNIissouri Valley 
Junction, Iowa, where it connects 
with the Chicago & Northwestern 
Railway. 



■28 



PA(IFIC COAST CUIOK. 




1111(1' J nVJiiiHiui II rail 



1 f I 



■^llili 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



29 



It is claimed this route is 3) miles 
shorter to Chicago than via Omaha, but we 
do uot know of auy thi-ougli travel ever 
going by this line, and judge the local 
travel to be its sole support. 

The Fremont & Elkhorn Valley rail- 
road to tlie northward is completed to 
Norfolk, 80 miles, and trains are run- 
ning regularly. This roatl runs through a 
ve y rich and well cultivated country, 
where wheat yields as high as 30 busliels 
to the acre. 

Fremont is connected with the south 
side of the Platte by a wag.>u bridge ihal 
cost over $50,000. 

The Platte P.iver— We are now going 
up Ihe Platle, and .'(jr many miles we shall 
pass closely along the north bank ; at other 
times, the course of the river can only hs 
traced by the timber growing on its banks. 
Broad plains are the pi'incipal features, 
skirted in places with low abrupt hills, 
which here, in this level country, rise to 
the dignit/ of "blutfs." 

It would never do to omit a description 
of this famous stream, up 
the banks of which so many — 

emiii;rants toiled in the 
" Whoa, haw " times, from 
1850 to the time when the 
railroad superseded the "prai 
rie schooner." How manj 
blows from the ox-whip ha\e 
fallen on the sides of Ihe p i 
ticnt oxen as they toiled along 
hauling the ponderous wag 
ons of the freighters, or the 
lighter vehicles of the emi 
grant! How often the shatp 
ring of the "popper" aroused 
the timid liare or graceful 
antelope, and frightened 
them away from their meal 
of waving grass! How msny 
tremendous, jaw - breaking 
oaths fell from the lips ot 
the "bull-whackers" during 
that period, we will not even 
guess at; but pious divines 
tell U3 that there is a Statisti 
clan wuo has kept a record 
of all such expletives; to 
that authority we refer our 
readers who are fond of lig 
ures. Once in a while, too, 
the traveler will catch a 
glimpae of a lone grave, 
marked by a rude head-board, 
on these plains ; and with the 



time and skill to decipher the old and 
time-stained hieroglyphics with which it 
is decorated, will learn that it marks the 
last resting-place of some emigrant or 
freighter, who, overcome by sickness, laid 
down here and gave up the fainting spirit 
to the care of Him who gave it; or, per- 
chance, wid learn that the tenant ol^ this 
reiitless house fell whi e defending his 
wife and clii dren from the savage Inilians, 
who atacked the train in the gray dawn or 
darker night. Th'-re is a sad, brief his- 
tory connected with each told to the passer- 
by, mayhap in rude lines, possibly b) the 
broken arrow or bow, rudely drawn on the 
mouldering head-board. However rude or 
rough the early emigrants may have been, 
il can never be charged to tliem th it they 
ever neglected a comrade. The sick were 
teuderK uurs'jd, the dead decently buried, 
anil their graves marked by men who had 
shared With them the perils of the trip. 
Those were drys, and these plains the 
place that tried men's mefle; anil lu-re the 
Western frontiersman shone superior to all 




HIGH SCHOOL, OMAHA. 



30 



OKOFUTT S XEW OV'KKLAXD TOURIST 



Others who venluied to cross the "vast 
desert," wh.ch stretched its unknowu 
breailth between him and the hind (jf his 
desires. Braoe, cool and wary as the sav- 
age, with his unerring rifle on his (rrni, he 
was more than a snatch for any red devil he 
might encounter. Patient under adversity, 
fertile in. res'>urces, he was an i7ivalu'ible 
aid at all times; a true friend, and bitter 
foe. This type of people is fast passing 
awa\'. 

Tlie change wrouglit within the last 
few years has robbed the plains of its 
most atU'active feature, to those who are 
far away from the scene— the emigrant 
train. Once, the south bank of the Pialte 
was one brodd thoioughfar •, whereon the 
long trains of the emigrants, with their 
white-covered wagons, could be seen 
stretching away for many miles in an almost 
unbroken chain. Now, on the north side of 
the same river, in almost full view of the 
"old emigrant load," the cars are bear ng 
the freight and passengeis rap.dly west- 
ward, wuile I he oxen that used to toil so 
wearily along this route, have been traus- 
foriued into 'western veal" to tickle the 
palates of those passengers, or else, like 
Tiny Tim, they have been compelled to 
"move on" to some new helds of labor. 

To give some idea of the great amount 
of freighting don on these plains we pre- 
sent a few tigures, which were taken from ! 
the books of freighting Urms in AichisDU, 
Kansas. In 18(55, this p ace was the 2)rin- 
cipal point on the Missouri River, Irom 
which freight was for u aided to the Great 
West, luelu dug Colorado, Utah, Montana, 
&c. There were loaded at this place, 
4,480 wagons, drawn by 7,310 mules, and 
29,720 oxen. To control and drive these 
ti'ains, an army of 5,0 10 men was em- 
ployed. The freight taken by ihese trains 
amounted to 27,000 tons. Add to these 
authenticated accounts, the estimaied busi- 
ness of the other shipping points, and tlie 
aimmnt is somewhat astounding. Compe- 
tent authority estimatad the amount of 
freights shipped during that season from 
Kansas City, Leavenworth, !St. Joe, Omaha 
and Plattsmouth, as being fully equal, if not 
more than was shipped from Atchison, 
with a correspond ng number of men, 
wagons, mules and oxen. Assuming these 
eslimate-i to be coirect, we have this result : 
During 18U5, there were employed in this 
business, 8,'JGO wagons, 14,(520 mules, 59,- 
440 cattle, and 11,220 men, who moved to 
its destination, 54,000 tons of freight. To 



accomplish this, the enormous sum of $7,- 
289,800 was invested in teams and wagons, 
alone. 

But to return to the river, and leave facts 
and figures for something more interesting. 
"But," says the reader, "Ain't the Platte 
lli\er a factV" Not much, for at times, 
after you pass above Julesburg, there is 
more fancy than fact in the streams. In 
1808, teamsters were obliged to excavate 
pits in the sand of the river-bed before they 
could find waier encnigh to water their 
st(jck. Again, although the main stream 
looks like a mighty river, broad and ma- 
jestic, it is as deceiving as the "make up" 
of a fashionable woman of to-day. Many 
places it looks broad and deep; try it, and 
you will find that your feet touch the 
treacherous sand ere your instep is under 
water; another place, the water appears to 
be ripi)ling along over a smooth b(jttoin, 
close to the surface; try that, and in you 
go, over your head in water, thick with 
yellowish sand. You don't like the Platte 
when you examine it in this manner. The 
channel is continually shifting, caused by 
the vast qu lutities of sand wnich are con- 
tinually lloaling down its muddy tide. The 
sand )s very treacherous, too, and woe to 
the unlucky wight who attempts to cross 
this stream betore he has become iicquaint- 
ed with the tbrds. Indeed, he ought to be 
introduced to the river and ail its branches 
before he undertakes the perilous task. In 
crossing the river in early times, should 
the wagons come to a stop, down they sank 
in the yielding quicksand, until they were 
so firmly imbedded that it required more 
than double the original force to pull them 
out; and often they must be unloaded, to 
prevent the united teams from puding 
them to pieces, while trying to lilt the loatl 
and wagon from the sandy bed. The 
stream is generally very shallow during 
the fall and winter; in many places no 
more than six or eight inches in dei)th, 
over the whole width of the stream. Nu- 
merous small islands, and some quite 
large, are seen while passing along, which 
will be noticed in their proper place. 

The Platte River has not done much for 
navigation, neither will it, yet it drains the 
waters of a vast scope of country, thereby 
rendering the immense valleys fertile; 
many thousand acres of which, during the 
past few years, have been taken up and 
successfully cultivated. 

The average width of the river, from 
where it empties into the Missouri to the 



AXD PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



31 



juuctiou of the North and South Forks, is 
not far from three-tourtlis of a mile; its 
average depth is six inches. lu the months 
of September and October the river is at 
its lowest stage. 

The hinds lying along this river are a 
portion of the laud granted to the Union 
Pacitic railroad, and the company are 
otieringliberal terms and great inducements 
to settlers. Much of the land is as line 
agricultural and grazing land as can be 
iOund in any section of the Northwest. 
Should it be deemed necessary to irrigate 
these plains, as some are inclined to think 
is ihe case, there is plenty of fall in either 
fork, or in tbemain river, for the purpose, 
and during the montlis when irrigation is 
required, there is plenly of water for that 
pur|)ose, coming from the melting snow on 
the mountains. Ditches could be led from 
either stream and over the pla us at little 
expense. Many, however, claim that in 
ordinary seasons, irrigation is unnecessary'. 

From Omaha to the Platte River, the 
course of the road is southerlj', until it 
nears the river, when it turns to the we^t, 
formmg, as it were, an immen^^e elbow. 
Thence along the valley, lollowing the 
river, it runs to Kearny, with a slight 
southerly depression of its westerly course ; 
but from thence to the North Phxtte it»re- 
covers the lost ground, and at this point is 
neai'ly due w'es-t from Freniont, the tirst 
point where the road reaches the river 
That is as far as we will trace the course 
of the road at present. 

The tirst view of the Platte Valley is im- 
pressive, and should the traveler chance to 
behold it for the tirst time in the spring or 
early summer, it is tlien very beaulitul ; 
should he behold it for the tirst time, when 
the heat of the summer's sun has parched 
the plains, it may not seem inviting; its 
beauty nuiy be gone, but its majestic grand- 
eur still remains. The eye almost tu"es in 
searching for the boundary of this vast ex- 
panse, and longs to behold some rude moun- 
tain peak in the distance, as pioof that 
the horizon is not the girdle that en- 
circles this valley. 

When one gazes on mountain peaks and 
dismal gorges, on foaming cataracts and 
mountain torrents, the mind is tilled with 
awe anil wonder, perhaps fear of Him who 
hath I reated these grand and sublime won- 
ders. On the other hand, these lovely 
plains and smiling valleys — clothed in 
verdure and decked with flowers —All the 
mind with love and veneration for their 



Creator, leaving on the heart the impres- 
sion of a joy and beauty which shall \ast 
tbrever. 

Keturning to Fremont — and the railroad 
— we proceed seven miles to 

Ames — formerly called Ketchum — 
only a side track. Near this station, and at 
other places along the road, the traveler 
will notic-; iie-kis Ijnccd with a line willow 
hedge, which appears to thrive wonderful- 
ly. Eight miles further we reach 

IX^ortll Keiicl — which is situated near 
the river bank, and surrouudeJ by a tine 
agricultural country, where luxuriant 
crops of corn give evidence of the fertility 
of the soil. The place has materially im- 
proved within the last few years and now 
has some tine stores, two ho els, a grain 
elevator, and about 75 dwellings and 
places of business, and a population of 
about 350. Young cottonwood groves have 
been set out in many places — good tences 
built, Hud altogether the town has a pro- 
gressive appearance. 

Leaving the station, for a few miles the 
railroad tra(;k is laid nearer the river's 
b ink than a' any point between Fremont 
and North Platte. Seven miles from here 
we arrive at 

BSog'ers— a new station, and ajjpar- 
ently one of promise — 7 -t-lU miles further 
is 

Sclmyler — the county seat of Colfax 
county, eontuinin,^- l.coo inhabitants, 
and rapidly improving. It has tiva 
churches, two very good hotels, with court- 
house, jail, school-liousis, many stores, a 
grain elevator, and several small manu- 
factories. The bridge over the Platte 
liiver, two miles ^ouih, centres at this 
town a large amount of business from the 
south side of the river. 

From Schuyler it is 7 8-10 miles to 

Bentaii— formerly called Cooper; 
later, Piichlaiid— a small side-track 
station, from which it is eight miles to 

Colnnibns — the county seat ot Platte 
county, a substantial growing city, which 
contains about 2,500 inhabitants, has two 
banks, six churches, s-everal schools, good 
hotels, and two weekly newspapers, — the 
Platte Journal and the Era. 'Ihe Ham- 
mond i the principal hotel. 

Columbus— Innu its location in the 
midst of the tiueot agricultural lauds in 
the Platte Valley, w.th the rich valley of 
the Loup on the north — has advantages 
that will, at no distant day, make it a city 
of many thousand inhabitants. 



32 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



George Francis Train called Columbus 
the geogra[ihical center of the United 
States, and advocated the removal of tt,e 
National Capitol to this place. We have 
very litt'e doubt, slionld George ever be 
elected President, he will carry out tlie 
idea, when we shall behold the Capital of 
the Union located on these broad plains— but 
we shall not buy corner lois on the strength 
of the removal. 

In July aud August, 1867, Columbus was 
a busy place, and the end of the track. 
Over ■10,000,000 lbs. of Government corn 
and other freight was re-shipped from 
here to Fort Laramie, and the military 
camps in the Powder River country. 
The Burlington and Missouri River 
Railroad reaches this place from the 
sovithward, and the Omaha, Niobrara 
& Black Hills Railroad leads off to the 
northward. See Annex No. GC. 

Soon after leaving Columbus we cross 
Loup Fork on a fine bridge, constructed in 
the most substantial manner. This sU'eam 
rises 75 miles northeast of Nurth Platte 
City, aud runs through a fine farming 
country until it unites with the Platte. 
Plenty of fish of various kinds are found 
in the stream, and its almost innumerable 
tributaries. These little streams water a 
section of country unsurpassed in fertility 
and agricultural resources. Game in 
abundance is found in the valley of the 
Loupe, consisting of deer, antt lope", turkeys 
and prairie chickens, while the streams 
abound in ducks and geese. 

From Columbus it is 7 6-10 miles to 

l>niicaii— formerly called Jackson 
—surrounded by well cultivated fields. 

Passmg along, and just before reaching 
the next station, we cross a small stream 
called Silver Creek. From Duncan it 
is lu 1-10 miles to the station of , 

SSilver Creek — This section of coun- 
try has improved very rapidly during the 
Irist few years, and we notice many sub- 
stantial evidences of thrift in every direc- 
tion — many new buildings. 

To the uorlheast of this station is the 
old Pawnee Indian Reservation, but not 
visible from the cars It covered a tract 
of country Iox^jO miles in area, most of 
which is the best of land. About 2,000 
acres are under cultivation. The tribe, num- 
bering about 2,000, were removed to the In- 
dian Territory in 1878 by the Government 
aud the lauds sold at auction. 
Again we speed westward, six miles to 



Havens— from which it is 5 3-10 
miles to 

i lai k's— a small station named in 
honor of the Gen. Managerof the road. 

The surrounding countiy is remark- 
ably rich in thechief wealth of a nation 
— agriculture, and has made rapid pro- 
gress. Of J ite years, several new stores, 
achurch, school house and many dwel- 
lings have been erected, indicating 
permanent prosperity. From Clark's 
it is 5 6-10 miles to 

TIiHiniiie!— and 5 6-10 miles more to 
Cesttra H'i 3 y— formerly Lone Tree, 
the county seat of Merrick county. It 
contains a population of about 900, ai\d 
is surrounded by thrifty farmers. The 
'"old emigrant road" from Omaha to 
Colorado crosses the river o]^posite 
this point, at the old "Shiun's Ferry." 

The more recent settlers of Lone Tree, 
call the place "Central City," in anticipa- 
tion of the early completion of the Ne- 
braska Ci ntral rai;road to this place. 
Cottonwood trees have been planted by 
numy of the settlers about their Iiomes, 
which present a cheeiful and homelike ap- 
pearance. 

Passengers should notice the railroad 
track — for 40 miles it is constructed as 
strv^i'ght as it is possib'e to build a road. 
When the sun is low in the horizon, at 
certain seasons, theview' is very beau- 
tiful. Rolling along \\ 4-10 miles, and 
we arrive at 

l*a<ldock — seven miles more, to 

CliaiHiiati's — a small place, compris- 
ing a few buildings, near the station, but 
the country around about is a broad prai- 
rie, aud nearly all improved and settled by 
thrifty farmers. 

From Chapman, we continue west 5 5-10 
miles to 

IjOckwood— a small side-track station. 
Six miles further and we are at our supper 
station, 

CwraiKl Island- the county seat of 
Hall couuij-, winch contains a population 
of about 1,500. It is provided with the 
usual county buildings, several banks, 
churches of various denominations, good 
schools, several hotels, many stores, some 
very pretty private residences, and two 
weekly newspapers, grain elevators 
and one of the largest steam flouring 
mills in tlie State. 

Gran?l Island is a regular eating station, 
where trains going west stop 30 minutes 
lor supper, and those for the East have the 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



33 




devil's slide, WEBER CANYON, UTAH. 



same length of time for breakfast The 
eating-house is on the right or north side 
ol' the track, in a large, new building, and 
the meals served are very good. It is 
claimed that this town will become a great 
railroad center— in proof of which we 
notice the comj^letion of the St. Joseph 
& Denver City Eailroad to this place— 
from the south— in 1879, and the com- 
pletion of the Grand Island & St. Paul 
branch of the Union Pacific to St. Paul 
—22 miles northward— up the Loupe 
Fork Piiver. The Union Pacific By. Co. 
have located here machine aud lepair 
shops, round-house, etc., being the end of 
the first power division west of Omaha. 

This station wa-s named after Grand Is- 
land in the Platte River, two miles distant, 
one of the largest in the river, being about 



Chinese Cheap Labor— 'Work for nothing and 
board yourself"— from the inhabitants of your 
neighbor's hen-roost. 

3 



bO miles in length by four in width. The 
Island i-^ well wooded— cotton wood princi- 
pally, and, some years after completion of 
the railroad was a government reservation. 
When the road was first built to Grand 
Island, buffalo were quite numerous, their 
range extending over 200 miles to the 
westward. In the spring, these animals 
were wont to cross the Platte, from the Ar- 
kansas and Republican valleys, where they 
had wintered, to the northern country, re- 
turning again, sleek and fat, late in the 
fall; but since the country has become 
settled, few, if any, have been seen. In 
18(50, immense numbers were on these 
plains on the south side of the Platte, near 
Fort Kearny, the herds being so large 
that often emigrant teams had to stop 
while they were crossing the road. At 



It IS said that in San Francisco the people can 
drink, and carry more without staggering, than in 
any city of the world. 



34 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



Fort Kearny, in 1859 and 1860, an order 
was issued forbidding tlie soldiers to slioot 
tlie buflalo on tlie parade ground. 

Proceeding westward 7 7-10 miles, we 
reach 

A Ida — a small station just east of 
Wood River. 

Aftei' crossing the river, the road follows 
along near the west bank for many miles, 
through a thickly settled country, the 
farms in summer being covered with lux- 
uriant crops of wheat, oats and corn. AVood 
River rises in the bluffs, and runs souih- 
east until its waters unite with those of the 
Platte. Along the whole length of the 
stream and its many tributaries, the land 
for agricultural purposes is surpassed by 
none in the Northwest, and we might say 
in the world. The banks of the river and 
tributaries are well woo !ed, the streams 
abouud in tish and wild-fowl, and the 
country adjacent is well supplied wi h 
game, deer, antelope, turkeys, chickens, 
rabbits, etc., forming a line tield for the 
sportsman. 
Th is valley was one of the earliest settled in 
Centi-al Nebraska, the hardy pioneers tak- 
ing up their lands when the savage Indians 
held possession of this, their favorite hunt- 
ing-ground. i\Iauy times the settlers 
were driven from their homes by the In- 
dians, suffering fearfully in loss of lite and 
property, but as often returned again, 
and again, until they succeeded in secur- 
ing a firm Ibothold. To-day the evidences 
of the struggle can be seen in the low, 
strong cabins, covered on top with turf, 
and the walls loop holed, ami enclosed 
with the same material, which guards the 
roofs from the tire-brands, bullets and ar- 
rows of the warriors. 

From Alda, it is 8 1 10 miles to 
Wood It&^'er— a small Stat on. Here 
can be seen one of the okM'ashioned speci- 
mens of plains station-men, in tlie person 
of Charley Davis. He keeps an eating- 
house and saloon, where freight and emi- 
grant trains often stop for meals. Char- 
ley's specialty is the "Jerusalem Pickle " 
A good " square meal " is served for 50 
cen-'.s. 
Passing on 7 5-10 miles, we reach 
i!$]teltoii — a side-track, where a flour- 
ing mill, store, and a few dwelling houses 
constitute the place. To the westward 5 
8-10 miles, is 

Oibboii — It is situaed in the midst of 
a fine farming country, was once the coun- 
ty seat of Buffalo county, and is a thriving 



place, with a population of about 100. 
Proceeding, it is 8 4-10 miles to 
Kiida — formerly Kearny — later, 
Shelby — a station of little account. 

AVe.stward again four mile.s, and we 
reach a place of .some importance, 

lieariiy Junction— the county 
seat of Buffalo county — named for 
the old fort of that name on the south 
side of the river, nearly opposite. 

In 1873, the first few buildin js were 
erected here, since winch time the place 
has imi)roved wonderfully. It now con- 
tains a population of over 1,200, with two 
wee <ly papei'S. 

The citizens, as a class, are enterpris- 
ing, law-abiding representatives from 
nearly every State in America, with a 
few from foreign countries. 

Here the B. & M. 11. II. in Neb. comes 
in from the south — crossing the Platte 
River — two miles distant-— and forms 
a junction with the Union Pacific. This 
road runs llirough a rich, well-settled 
agricultural country. 

The local business coming in on the B. 
& M. and tlie Union I'acific makes this 
place one of unusual activity and business 
promise. The town contains the usual 
county buildings, which aie built of brick, 
lias two banks, si.x fine churches, two 
schools, many stores of all kinds, several 
hotels— the Atkins and the Grand Central 
are the principal— and some fine pri\'ate 
residences. 

The country around the town is not as 
good agricultural land as we ha\e seen 
further to the eastward, yet some good 
crops 1 f grain are raised, and large quanti- 
ties are hauled here, to be shipped to the 
East, West and South. 

From this point west, the country is oc 
cupied principally by the stock men. 

Stages li ave here daily, except Sunday, 
for the Republican A^nlley, and all interme- 
diate points, carrying the U. S. mail to 
Franklin, iiloomiugton, Republican City, 
Orleans and Melrose, where coniiectiona 
are made walh stages for every town in the 
Upper Republican Valley and Northern 
Kansas. 

Let us take a look at the grounds on 
which stood old 

FoKT Keakny — This post was first 
established at Fort Childs, Indian Terri- 
tory, in 1848, by volunteers of the Mexican 
war — changed to Fort Kearny in JVIarch, 
1849. In 1»58 the post was re-built by the 
late Brevet-Colonel Charles May, 3d Dra- 



AND PACIFIC COAST OUIDE. 



35 



goons. It is situated Ave miles 
south of Kearny station, and nine 
miles via Burlington & Missouri 
railroad from Kearny junction, on 
the south bank of the Platte, which 
is at this point three miles wide, 
and full of small islands. The fort 
is in latitude 40 deg. 33 min., longi- 
tude 99 deg. 6 min. 

In the fall of 1872, all the Gov- 
ernment buildings, worth moving, 
were removed to North Platte and 
Sidney, on the Union Pacific Kail- 
way, 291 and 412 miles, respect- 
ively, west from Omaha, and the 
post abandoned. The remains of 
the dead bodies of soldiers, buried 
at Kearny, Avere taken up and re- 
intered in the National Cemetery, at 
Fort McPherson. 

Two miles above the Fort, on the 
south bank, is Kearny City, in the 
early days more commonly called 
"Dobey Town." This was 'once a 
great point with the old Overland 
Stage Company, and at that time 
contained about five hundred in- 
habitants, the greater portion of 
which left upon the abandonment 
of the line and the south-side route 
of travel. But we are told that 
settlers are coming in fast, and it 
will soon I'egain its "old time" figu- 
res. 

Eeturning to Kearny Junction, 5 
9-10 miles brings us to 

SteveiisoBi— a side-track,— unim- 
portant. Again, four miles west is 

<><!essa— another small station, — 
from which it is 6 3-10 miles to 

KlsBi Creek Station— a small 
place of several stores and a few 
dwellings. 

Soon after leaving the station, we 
cross Elm Creek, a small, deep, and 
quite lengthy stream. It was well 
wooded before the advent of the rail- 
road, the timber consisting almost 
entirely of red elm, rarely found else- 
where in this part of the country. 

From Elm Creek station it is nine 
miles to 

< Overton — This is another small 
station of a few buildings. It is situ- 
ated on a branch of Elm Creek. 

The Platte Yalley along here, and 
for the fifty miles over which we have 
just passed, is very broad; nearly all 
the best land has been taken up, or pur- 



"/ ■-■-.i'!mff.l\^'^^ / 




To be well armed and ready for a fight, is "to 
be heeled." 

The Indians on the j^lams call the locomotives 
and cars " bad medicine wagons." 



CROFUTT^S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



chased, but ouly a small portion is under 
cultivation. 

Passing on, 4 miles brings us to 

•Fosselyii — a side-track station, named 
after the paymaster of the road, a much 
more important person to the employes 
than the station, as trains do not always 
stop here, but roll on tive miles further to 

Plum Creek— the county scat of 
Dawson county. It contains a population 
of about 800, has a line, brick court-house, 
two churches, a school-house, several lio- 
tels, four stores, a bridge across the Platte, 
to the south, and a weekly newspaper — the 
Pioneer. The town w^as named after an 
old stage station and military camp, situ- 
ated on the ^^outh side of the river, on Plum 
Creek, a small stream which heads in very 
rugged bluffs southwest of the old station, 
and empties its waters into the Platte— 
opposite Plum Creek station on the rail- 
road. 

This old station was the nearest point on 
the " old emigrant road " to th-^ Kepubli- 
cau River, the heart of the grea Indian 
rendezvous, and their supposed secure 
stronghold, being but about 18 miles away. 
Around the old Plum Creek station many 
of the most fearful massacres which oc- 
curred during the earliest emigration were 
perpetrated by the Sioux, Cheyenne, and 
Arapahoe Indians. The jluffs here come 
very close Lo th: river, affording the savages 
an excellent opportunity for surprising a 
train, and, being very abrupt and cut up 
with gulches and canons, affording them 
hiding-places, from which they swooped 
down upon the luckless emigrant, often 
massacring the larger portion of the 
party. 

Returning to the railroad, 7 8-10 miles 
brings us to 

Coyote — an unimportant station. 

Here the bottoms are very wide, having 
increased in width for many miles. 

Jn early days, all along the river, for a 
distance of 50 miles, the islands and low- 
lands were covered with cottonwood tim- 
ber, but since the completion of the rail- 
road, the greater port iou have been cut down 
and removed by the settlers. Where, in 
18G0, were huge cottouwoods, now are 
wheat- tields, or young cotton woods and 
willows. We are now in a section of 
country where large quantities of hay are 
put up annually for shipment, 

Passing on 6 miles, we reach 

Cozad — About one-fourth mile be- 
fore reaching this station, on the right, we 



cross the 100th meridian, marked by a sign, 
which reads, in large letters •' 100th Me- 
ridian." 

This 1)1 ace was named by a gentleman 
from the East, who purchased 40,000 acres 
of land from the railroad company here, 
and laid out a town. It has not been a 
" huge success " as a speculation, so far, 
but by a thorough system of irrigation 
could be made ver^^ productive. There are 
a few go( d buildings at aud near the sta- 
tion, and some herds of cattle aud sheep 
range near by; in fact, this section of coun- 
try is more adapted to stock-raising than 
it is for agricultural purposes. 

The high bluffs to the south and west — 
our road here j'uns nearly north — looming 
up in the di.'^tauce, are on the south side 
of tlie Platte River, 25 miles distant. 

From Cozad, it is live miles to 

Willow lijjiland — population 100 — 

named from an island in the Platte River, 

near by, the second in size in that river. 

For some distance betbre reaching this 

I station, large herds ot cattle and sheep can 

I be seen, par;,icularly on the opposite side 

of the river, where can also be seen some 

of the old adobe ranches of the days when 

I the "overland stage" was the fastest 

method of crossing these plains. 

We are now beyond the agricultural sec- 
tion, and are entering the great grazing re- 
gion of the West. 

For some years after the completion of 
the roi.d the traveler could see, near this 
place, and in fact for many miles beyond 
North Platte, some of the old log houses of 
the early settlers, with their sides pierced 
with loop-holes and walled up with turf, 
the roofs being covered with the same ma- 
terial, which reminds one of the savage 
against whom these precautions Avere 
taken. In fact, from here up the river, the 
traveler will doubtless observe many of 
the rude forts along the roadside as well as 
at the stations. The deserted ranches to be 
met with along the "old emigrant road," 
o]i the south side of the river, are fortified 
in the same manner. The fort was gener- 
all}^ built of logs, covered on top and 
walled on the side in the manner described. 
They are ]iicrced with loop-holes on all 
sides, and afforded a safe jirotection against 
the Indians. They generally stood about 
fifty yards from the dwelling, from which 
an underground passage led to the fort. 
AMieu attacked, tlie settlers would retreat 
to their fortification where they would 
fi<xht it out; and until the Indians got "ed- 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



37 



ncated," many ;i " red brother " would get 
a shot — to hiiu unawares — which woukl 
send him to his " Happy Huuting-ground." 

As we pass along to the next station, 10 
3-10 miles, the passenger will note that our 
direction is nearly north, with the bottom 
lands getting narrower as we proceed. 

Warren — This is simply a side-track, 
where trains seldom stop. The gi-ass here 
is short and thick on the ujiland, and 
coarse and tall on the bottoms. 

Sand-hills close in on the right, and the 
river on our left, as we proceed eight miles 
further to 

Brady Island— This station derives 
its name from an. island in the Platte 
River, which is of considerable size. In 
early times many wandering bands of In- 
duius were wont to cross the river at this 
point, and for months at a time camp on 
tlic Island or on the river banks. 

li-endrey— is a side-track 4 9-10 
miles further, and 4 2-10 miles from 



]?I ax, wo^ll — formerly McPherson 
Station. It is five miles from the Platte 
River and seven miles from old "Cot- 
tonwood Springs" on the opposite side 
of the river, with which it is connected 
by a bridge, a great improvement on 
the old ford. 

The country round about is fertile, 
with some timber on the river bot- 
toms. A large amount: of fine mead- 
ow land adjoins the station, from 
v/hicli are cut thousands of tons of 
hay. 

Fort McPhersoin— is situated on 
tlie south side of the Platte River, 
near Cottonwood Springs. The post 
was established February 20, 186fi, 
by Major S. W. O'Brien, of the 7th 
Iowa Cavalry. It was originally 
known as "Cantonment McKeon," 
and also as " Cottonwood Springs." 
At the close of the war, wlien the regular 
army gradually took the place of the vol- 



^m^^^^^K^ES^^^^^»^Mi 



m/ii iiiiiNMiiiz 



s|K!lll/ 



iMtMi U I- \ lil 1>!i^^ li /I iNlil'Mr/.m'ilM'l.^ ^"^^^!' ^asirfipnx'iu^'ii nrm 

mil m\i iJi\A ij\ir"7n\[Mvvw 




SALB CREKK BRIDGE, NEAR SHERMAN, ON THE BLACK HILLS OF WYOMING. 



38 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



unteers who had been stationed on ihe 
frontier during the rebellion, the names of 
many of the forts were changed, and tliey 
were re-named in memory of those gal- 
lant officers who gave their lives in de- 
fense of their country. Fort McPherson 
was named after Major-General James B. 
McPherson, who was killed in the battle 
before Atlanta, Georgia, July, 32d, 1864. 
Supplies are received via McPhersou Sta- 
tion. Located in latitude 41 deg., longi- 
tude 100 deg. 30 min. 

The next station is 7 7-10 miles further, 
named 

G^annett — a side-track — nearly five 
miles from where the trains cross the long 
trestle bridge over the 

Nor iH Platte River — This river rises 
in the mountains ot Colorado, in the Norih 
Park. Its course is to the northeast from 
its source for several hundred miles, when 
it bends around to the southeast. We shall 
cross it again at Fort Steele, 403 miles fur- 
ther west. The general characteristics of 
the stream are similar to tho-e of the 
South Platte. 

For 1(X) miles np this river the " bottom 
lands " are from 2 to 15 miles wide, very 
rich, and susceptible of cultivation, though 
perhaps requiring irrigation. Game in 
abundance is found in this valley, and 
bands of wild horses at one time were 
numerous. 

Fort Laramie is about 150 miles from 
the junction — near where the Laramie 
River unites with this s'ream. 

On the west bank of the river, 80 miles 
north, is Ash Hollow, rendereil famous by 
GeiieiHl Harney, who gained a decisive 
victory over the Sioux Indians here, many 
years ago. 

About one mile bevond the bridge and 
5«-lu miles from Gannett is situated 

I^ortla Platte City— the county 
seat of Lincoln county. Elevation, 
2,78'.) feet; distaiKie from Omaha, 291 
miles. Here is the end of the Eastern 
and the commeneem<^nt of the Moun- 
tain Division. For altitude of each 
station see " Time Table " No. 2 at the 
end of the Book. This is a regular 
eating station for the trains on the 
•' Denver Short Line." Breakfast go- 
ing west : supper coming east. 

The road was finished to this place, No- 
vember. 1860. Here the company have a 
round-house of 20 stalls, a blacksmith and 
repan- shop, all of stone. In these si.ojis 



arc employed — regularly — 76 men, besides 
those engaged in the offices and yard. The 
Railroad House is the principal hotel. 

North Platte has improved very rapidly 
during the last three years, and contains 
about 2,000 population. Churches, hotels, 
county buildings, and scores of dwellings 
have been built, or are in course of erection. 
A new bridge has been completed across 
the South Platte River. Two weekly 
papers arei)ul)lished liere, and several 
others projected. Settlers' houses, 
and tens of thousands of cattle, sheep and 
hoises are to be seen in every direction. 
The advantages of this place, as a stock 
range and shipping punt, exceed all 
others on the line of road. 

Messrs. Keith, Barton, and Dillon, citi- 
zens of North Platte City, have a herd of 
15,000 head of cattle— on the North Platte 
above the City — and there are many oilier 
parties living at or near this city, who own 
herds of from 500 to 5,000 head. In this 
country a man that only owns 500 head, is 
counted a "poor shoat " — one to lie pitied. 

Norih Platte, in its palmiest days, 
boasted a population of over 3,000, which 
was reduced in a few months after the road 
extended, to as many hundreds. Until the 
road was finished to Julesburg, which was 
accomplished in June, 1867, all freight for 
the V\"est was shipped Irom thispoiut; then 
the town was in the height of its pros- 
perity; then the gamblers, the roughs and 
scallawags, who afterward rendered the 
road accursed by their iireseuce, lived in 
clover — -for there were hard-working, fool- 
ish men enough in the town to afibrd 
llieiu an easy living. When the town be- 
gan to decline, these leaches followed up 
the road, cursing with their upas blight 
every camp and town, until an enraged and 
long-suttermg community arose in their 
own defense, binding themselves together, 
a la vigilantes, anil, for want of a legal 
tribunal, took the law into their own 
hands, and hung them to the first projec- 
tion high and strong enough to sustain 
their worthless carcasses. But many 
"moved on," and we shall hear of them 
again many times before we are through. 

From North Platte our route is due 
west. It is 8 4-10 miles to 

Xiehol- — an unimj^ortant side- 
track. NorthPIa.ttccityisiii]dain sight 
—as is also the North and South Platte 
Ri\-ers— nnd the Ynlleys of the same. 

From Nichols it is 8 5-10 miles to 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



39 



O'Falloii's Station— situated in 
the sand hills, where the bluffs on the 
right come close to the river. Ou the 
south side of the river are the famous 
OTallon's Bluffs, a series of sandhills 
interspersed with ravines and gulches 
which come close to the river's bank, 
forming abrupt bluffs, which turned 
the emigrants back from the river, 
forcing them to cross these sand hills, 
a distance of eight miles, thro' loose 
yielding sand, devoid of vegetation. 
Here as well as at all points where the 
bluffs come near the river, the emi- 
grants suffered severely, at times, 
from the attacks of the Indians. Op- 
posite, and extending above this point 
is a large island in the river, once a 
noted camping ground of the Indians. 
O'Fallon's Bluffs are the first of a se- 
ries of sand hills, which extend north 
and south for several hundred miles. 
At this point the valley is much nar- 
rower than that thro' which we have 
just passed. Here we first enter the 
"alkali belt," which extends from this 
point to Julesburg— about 70 miles. 
The soil and water are strongly im- 
pregnated with alkaline substances. 

The country on both sides of the 
river is occupied exclusively for graz- 
ing purposes. The first volume of this 
book instructed i^assengers to keep 
their "eye peeled" for buffalo, as we 
are now getting into the buffalo range. 
During the spring of 1873-7-4 immense 
numbers roamed over this country, 
along the road for 100 miles westward, 
but few, if any, have been seen since 
that time. Passingalong up the nar- 
row bottom, with the bluffs along our 
right, 7 3-10 miles brings us to a side- 
track, called 

-Dexter— Trains seldom stop here, 
and 7 2-10 miles further we reach 

Alkali— on an alkali bottom. This 
station is directly opposite the old 
stage station of that name on the south 
side of the river. After leaving the sta- 
tion the road passes thro' the sand- 
bluffs, which here run close to the riv- 
ei-'s bank. A series of cuts and fills, 
extending for many miles, brings us 
to the bottom land again. From 
Alkali, it is 9 6-10 miles to 
_ Roscoe — another side-track sta- 
tion. Passing along over a narrow 
bottom, with sand bluff cuttings, at in- 
tervals, 9 G-10 milf's w-e come to 



Os;alaUa—thj county seat of Keith 
county. The settlers hero are all more 
or less engaged in stock-raising. It 
is the river crossing for large droves 
of cattle en route for the Indian reser-| 
vation, Fort Laramie and the Black 
Hills country, to the northward. Near 
this station, several years ago, at a 
point where the road makes a short 
curve and crosses the mouth of a ra- 
vine, the Indians attempted to wreck 
a passenger train, by suddenly mass- 
ing their ponies on the track ahead of 
the locomotive. The result was, some 
score or more of ponies were killed, 
without damaging the train, while the 
men used their "pistols" and guns 
pretty freely on the Indians, who were 
apparently greatly surprised, and who 
now called the locomotive "Smoke 
wagon— big chief! Ugh! ! no good !" 
Passing on 1 G-10 miles we pass 
Bosler — a side-track from v/hich 
it is 8 miles to 

Brnle— near is the old California 
Crossing, where the emigrants cross- 
ed the river when striking for the 
North Platte Elver andFortLaramie, 
to take the South Pass route over- 
land. On the south side of the river, 
opposite in plain view, is the old 
ranche and trading post of the noted 
Indian trader and Peace Commission- 
er— Beauve— now deserted. 

Passing along over cuts and fills, 
9 7-10 miles, we reach 

Big Springs — The station derives 
its name from a large spring, the first 
found on the road, which makes out 
of the bluffs, opposite the station, on 
the right hand side of the road, and in 
plain view from the cars. The water 
is excellent, and will be found the best 
along this road. It was at this station 
where the "Blue Spring's robbery" 
took place, Sept. 18th 1877. A party of 
twelve masked men took possession 
of the station, bound and gagged the 
men, cut the telegraph wires, Avhen 
the western train arrived took pos- 
session of it with guns and revolvers, 
in the name of "hands up". The rob- 
bers secured $65,000 from the express 
car, i:pl,300 and four gold watches from 
passengers, then mounted their horses 
and allowed the train to proceed. No 
person was killed or injured, but all 
were very badly frightened. Imme- 
diately after the robbery, a reward of 



40 



crofutt's new overland guide 



$10,000 was offered for the arrest of the 
l^erpetrators, and several have been 
caught and have paid the penalty of 
the crime with their lives. About one- 
half of the money has been recovered. 

After leaving this station^we pass by 
a series of cuts and fills, and another 
range of bluffs, cut up by narrow ra- 
vines and gorges. At points, the road 
runs so near the river bank, that the 
water seems to be right under the ears. 
But we emerge again after 7 8-10 miles 
and come to 

Hartoii — a small signal station of 
very little importance, from which it 
is 2 7-10 miles to 

DeJBVer Jnnctioii— Here the new 
*' Omaha & Denver Short Line " 
branches off to the left. 

In 1873-1:, a railroad bed was graded 
up the north side of the Platte river, 
in the interest of the U. P. Ey. Co.. 
but for some reason the ties and iron 
Avere not laid until the summer of 1881. 
On November 6th of that year the first 
through passenger trains commenc- 
ed making regular trips. The stations 
and distances are as follow\s; (See 
time table in back of book. miles. 

Denver June, to Sedgwick 14. s 

Sedgewick to Crook 15.0 

Crook to Iliff 15.5 

Iliff to Sterling, (Dinner Station.) ll.S 

Stelring to Butfalo V2.7 

Buffalo to Snyder 16.9 

Snyder to Deuel 12.!) 

Deuel to Orchard ^Z*^ 

Orcliard to Hardin 17.0 

Hardin to Lasalle 15.4 

Fom Denver .Junction to LaSalle, to con- 
nect with Cheyenne Div. U. V. lly. 150.8 

Prom LaSalle to Denver 40. 1 

From Denver Junction to Denver 1 97. 2 

" Omaha to North Platte 291. 

" North Platto to Denver Junction. .. . 80.4 

Omaha to Denver, via "Short Line," 568. G 

Omaha to Denver, via Cheyenne 622. 

Difference in favor of „Short Line," 53. 

The Platte EivER,w"est of North 
Platte city, is called the South Fork 
of the Platte. We have ascended it al- 
most on its banks, over 350 miles, and 
shall now leave it, as the "Overland 
Eoute" turns to the right, and north- 
west, and follow up the narrow valley 
of Lodge Pole Creek, to Egbert, about 
100 miles distant, The South Fork of 
the Platte, up which the '"Short Line" 
is built, rises in the South Park of the 
Eocky Mountains of Colorado, about 



280 miles distant. The 'valley extends 
from the Junction up the river about 
217 miles, to where the river emerges 
from the mountains. The average 
width of the valley is about three 
miles, the soil of which, in places, is 
very rich, producing good crops with 
irrigation, large quantities of hay, 
and most excellent grazing. It now 
supports, witli the adjoining uplands, 
vast herds of cattle, sheep and horses. 

We refer the reader, for full infor- 
mation in regard to Colorado, her min- 
eral, stock-raising, and varied re- 
sources, watering places, and scenic 
attractions, to Crofutfs Grip-Sack 
Guide of Colorado. Sold on all trains. 

From Denver Junct'n it is 6 miles to 

Wier — formerlv Julesburgh, sta- 
tion. Elevation 3, .391 feet. Until 1808, 
this was an important militaiy, freight, 
and passenger station, since when it 
declined to a simple way station. The 
Union Pacific Avas completed to this 
place the last of June, 1867, -and all 
Government freight for the season 
was shipped to this iioint,to be reship- 
ped on wagons to the north and west. 

At that time Julesburgh had a pop- 
ulation of 4,000; now the town is al- 
most deserted. During the "lively 
times," Julesburgh was the roughest 
of all towns along the Union Pacific 
line. The roughs congregated there, 
and a day seldom ];)assed but what 
they"had a man for breakfast." Gam- 
bling and dance houses constituted 
the greater portion of the town ; and it 
is said that morality and honesty 
clasped hands and departed. We have 
not learned whether they have return- 
ed; and really Ave have our doubts 
about their ever having been there. 

Before the railroad, the last of Utah 
and California emigration that came 
up the Platte crossed opposite the 
station, and followed up the valley of 
Lodge Pole Creek to Chevenne Pass. 

Tlie old, old, town of Julesburgh, 
Avas situated on the south side of the 
Platte river nearly opi)Osite this sta- 
tion and Avas named for Jules Burgh 
Avho Avas brutally assasinated as Avill 
be related in Annex No. 10. 

Near this old town Avas the site of 

Fort Sedgavick— this post Avas es- 
tablished Mav 10. 1864, by the Third 
U. S. Volunters. and named after Ma.i. 
Gen'l John Sedgwick., Col. 4th Cav- 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



41 



airy, U. S. A., who waskilled in buttle 
at Spottsvlvania C. H., Va., May Uth, 
186-i. It is located in the northeast cor- 
ner of Colorado, on the south side of 
the Platte river, four miles distant, 
on the old emigrant and stage road, to 
Cllorado, in plain view from the cars. 
Latitude 31 deg., longitude 102 deg. 30 
min.— now abandoned. During the 
winter of 'G5-'G6, most of the wood used 
at Julesburg and Fort Sedgwick, was 
hauled on wagons from Denver, at an 
expense of from $60 to $75 per cord, for 
transportation alone, and was sold, to 
Government, by contract, at $105 per 
cord. The wood cost in Denver about 
$20. Besides this the contractors were 
allowed by Government to putin what 
hard wood they could get at double 
price, or $210 a cord, many thoughtthis 
to be a "pretty soft snap." The "hard 
wood" was obtained in the scrub-oak 
bluffs of Colorado, 30 miles south of 
Denver, and cost no moi'e for trans- 
portation than did the soft. 

From Wier it is 10 miles to 

Cliappell— a small side-track 
where passenger trains seldom stop, 
and 9 1-10 further to 

LiOdge Pole— another side-track. 
This valley is narrow, but with bluffs, 
and agreat open prairie country to the 
northward, extending to the North 
Platte river, a distance of 30 miles, af- 
fords the finest grazing range, and 
large herds of cattle, and numerous 
bands of antelope can be seen while 
passing on up the valley. 

Colton— is a small station, 10 miles 
from Lodge Pole. It was named in hon- 
or of Francis Colton, Esq., a former 
general ]iassenger agent of the road. 

From Colton it is 7 7-10 miles to 

Sidney— named after the president 
of the road. This is a regular eating 
station, where trains stop 30 minutes, 
those from the East for breakfast, and 
from the West for supper. Sidney is 
the countv seat of Cheyenne county. 
Neb., and within the last few years has 
improved in buildings, and increased 
in population, until it now contains 
about 1.500 people. The "Lockwood" 
the largest hotel, is situated a little 
to the west of the station from which 
start the dailv stages for Deadwood 
in the Bl ck'Hills'of Dakota. Dis- 
tance 267 miles. 

Black Hills Gold Mines— For many 



years anterior to the building of the 
Pacific Eailway vague reports were 
circulating among old plainsmen and 
miners, of rich gold deposits in the 
Black Hills and Big Horn country, but 
until Gen. Custer, with a military ex- 
pedition, penetrated to, and explored 
the region about Harney's Peak in '7i, 
and reported gold abundant, the soil 
rich, the country well timbered, and 
most desirable, nothing definite was 
known. In '75 the gold-seekers began 
their pilgrimage to the "Hills," in '76 
the numbers were greatly increase, but 
in '77 the great rush was at its height. 
These Hills lie between the 43d and 
45th degrees of latitude, and the 103d 
and 105th parallels of longitude ; are 
about 100 miles long and 60 miles wide. 
Besides extensive and rich veins of 
gold and silver yielding quartz, there 
are found to be vast beds of coal, iron, 
copper, lead and mica. Placer mines 
are also numerous, many of which are 
worked with profit. The country is 
well watered, the mountains covered 
with timber, Avhile the valleys are 
very rich and productive agricultural 
lands. For grazingpurposes the coun- 
try about and adjacent to the "Hills" 
is unequaled, and stock thrives the 
year around upon the native grass- 
es. The population of this region, at 
present, is not far from 20.000; the 
greater portion are engaged in quartz 
mining. The ores are worked i)rin- 
cipally by the stamp ]:>rocess, some of 
the largest mills in this country being 
located here. The mills nowin opera- 
tion aggregate 1,192 — stamps, thun- 
dering away night and day, the yield 
of which, including the placer mines, 
for 1881 exceeded $4,500, ttOO. Dead- 
wood is the principal city, out of a 
half a hundred cfties, towns, villages 
and prosperous mining settlements. 
Sidney is the chief out-fitting ])oint 
for the "Hills," and freight in large 
quantities is shipped from here on 
Avagons, and it is (claimed this is the 
shortest and most comfortable route. 
Sidney has some good business blocks 
and private residences. The railroad 
comiiany have a lO-stall round house, 
machine shop, a large freight ware- 
house and depot building. 

To learn all about Colorado, huy "Crofutt'3 
Grip-Sack Guide." It is a complete Encyclope- 
rlia of the State. — Sold on the trains. 



42 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



The principal outflttiiig store at 
Sidney is owned by Mr. Chas. Moore, 
the pioneer ranchman of the old South 
Platte route ; but 'Charley' talksjjoor. 
Besides his big stock of goods, he has 
only about 5,000 head of cattle and 
sheep,— and by the way, Sidney is not 
much behind in the number of pros-, 
perous stock-men. Scores of her citi- 
zens own from 500 to 5,000 head, within 
range of the late "Cattle King," Iliff, to 
the south, on which graze 30,000 head. 

The Goverument has established a milU 
tary post at this station, and erected exten- 
sive barracks and warehouses. The post 
is on the south side of tlie track, a little to 
the east of the station. The old "PostTrader" 
at this place, Mr. James A. Moore, recently 
deceased, was an old pioneer, and tlie Iiero 
of the "Pony Express." June 8th, 1860, 
he made the most remarkable ride cu 
record. Mr. Moore was at Midway stage 
station on the south side of the Platte, when 
a very important Government despatch ar- 



rived for the Pacific Coast. Mounting his 
pony, he left for Julesburg, 140 miles dis- 
tant, wliere, on arriving, he met an impor- 
tant despatch from the Pacific; resting 
only seven minutes, and, without eating, re- 
turned to Midway, making the "round 
trip " — 280 miles — in fourteen hours and 
forty-six minutes. The d' spatch reached 
Hacraiuento from St. Joseph, Mo., in eight 
days, nine hours and forty minutes 

From Sidney it is 9 miles to 

JSrotrnson — Passenger trains do not 
stop. The station was named after Col. 
Brownson, who was with the Union Pacific 
from the first, and a long time their gen- 
eral fceiglit agent. The valley along here 
is very nariow, with high rocky biufls on 
each side. It is 9 9-10 miles further to 

Potter — Large quantities of wootl and 
ties are u>ually stored here, which are ob- 
tained about 20 miles north of this point, 
on Lawrence Fork antl Spring Canyon, 
tributaries of the North Platte River. Pot- 
ter, although not a large place, is situated 




FINGER ROCK, WEBER CANYON, UTAH. 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



45 



near a very large city, called 

Prairie Dog City — one of the larg- 
e-t cities on the whole line of the road. 
At this point, and for several miles up 
and down the valley, the dwellings of the 
prairie dogs frequently occur, but three 
miles west of the station they are found in 
large numbers, and there the great prairie 
dog city is situated. It occupies several 
hundred acres on each side of the road, 
wliere these sagacious little animals have 
taken land and established their dwellings 
without buying lots of the company. (We 
do not know whether Mr. Land-Commis- 
sioner, intends to eject them or not.) Their 
dwellings consist of a little mound, with a 
hole in the t"p, from a foot to a toot aud a 
half high, raised by the dirt excavated from 
their burrows. On the approach of a 
train, these animals can be seen scamper- 
ing for their houses; arrived there, they 
squat on their hams or stand on their hind 
feet, barking at the train as it passes. 
Should any one venture too near, down they 
go into their holes, and the city is silent as 
the city of the dead. 

It is said that the opening in the top 
leads to a subterranean chamber, connect- 
ing with the next dwelling, and so on 
through the settlement; but this is a mis- 
take, us in most cases a few buckets of 
water will drown out any one ot them 
The animal is of a sandy-brown color, and 
about the size ot a large gray squirrel. In 
their nest, living with the dog, may be found 
the owl and rattlesnake, though whether 
they are welcome visitors is quite uncertain. 
Tlie prairie dog lives on grasses and roots, 
aud is generally fat; and by many, espe- 
cially the Mexicans, considered good eating, 
the meat being sweet and tender, but rather 
greasy, unless thoroughly par- boiled. 
Wolves prey on the little fellows, and they 
may often be seen sneaking and crawling 
near a town, where they may, by chance, 
pick up an unwary straggler. But the 
dogs are not easily caught, for some one is 
always looking out for danger, and on the 
first intimation of trouble, the alarm is 
given, and away they all scamper for their 
holes. 

CouRT-HoxJSE Rock — About 40 miles 
due north from this station is the noted 
Court-House Rock, on the North Platte 
River. It is plainly visible for 50 miles up 
and dow'n that stream. It has the appear- 
ance of a tremendous capitol building, 
seated on the apex of a pyramid. From 
the base of the spur of the blutis on which 



the wiiite Court-IIouse Rock is seated, to 
the top of the rock, must be nearly 2,000- 
feet. Court-House Rock to its top is about 
200 feet. Old California emigrants will re- 
member the place and the many names, 
carved by ambitious climbers, in the soft 
sand-stone of which it is composed. 

Chimney Rock — is about 25 miles up 
the river from Court-House Rock. It is 
about 500 feet high and has the appear- 
ance of a tremendous, cone-shaped sand- 
stone column, rising directly from the 
plain. The elements have worn away the- 
bluffs, leaving this harder portion standing. 

The next station is nine miles distant^ 
called 

3>lx — formerly Bennett — n side- 
track for the accommodation of 
stockmen residing near. The nam© 
of the station is in honor of Gen. Dix, 
of New York. Passenger trains sel- 
dom stop, but roll on 9 2-10 miles 
further where they do stop, at 

Antelope — It is situated at the lower 
end of the Pine Bluffs, which at this point, 
is near the station, on the left. 

This station is in the center of what the 
plains-men call "the b(8t grass country in 
the world," as well as one of the best points, 
for antelope on the route. For article on_ 
stock-raising, see Annex No. 29. 

Six miles further and we come to 

Adams — an unimportant side-track, 
from which it is 5 9-10 miles to 

ItnsSBnell — This is another unimpor- 
tant side-track, near the boundary line be- 
tween Nebraska and Wyoming- Territory. 
Passenger trains do not stop, but pass on 
ten miles further to 

Pine ISIuiffl — where cattle-shipping- 
is the principal business transacted at the 
station. 

During the building of the road, this 
place was known as " Rock Ranche " — and 
a tough ranche it was. Considerable pitch 
pine wood was cut for the railroad in the 
bluffs, a few miles to the southward, from 
which the station derives its name. The 
bluffs are on the left hand side of the road,, 
and at this point are quite high and rocky, 
extending very near the track. 

Fort Morgan — was established in May,. 
1865, abandoned in May. 18(58, and its gar- 
rison transferred to Laramie. It is- 
about 60 miles north of this station, on the 
North Platte River, at the western base or 
what is known as Scott's Bluffs. Latitude 
40 deg. 80 min. ; longitude 27 deg. 

Our course from this station is more to- 



44 



PACIFKJ COAST GUIDE. 



the westward, for 5 (5- 
10 miles to 

Tracy — a small 
side-track, where pas- 
senger trains seldom 
stop. It is 5 6-10 miles 
further to 

E g !> e r i — anoth- 
er unimportant side- 
track. 

Near this point we 
leave Lodge Pole 
Creek, from which 
to the source of the 
stream in the Black 
Hills, about 40 miles 
away, the valley pre- 
sents the same general 
appearance until it 
reaches the base of 
the mountains. Bears, 
deer and wolves 
abound in tlie country 
around the source of 
the stream, and herds 
of antelope are scatter 
ed over the valley. At 
one time beavers were 
plenty in the creek, and 
a few of these interest 
ing animals are still to 




MONUMENT ROCK, BL.\CK HILLS, U.P.R.R. 



be found in the lower waters of the stream, 
near to its junction with the Platte. This 
valley was once a favorite hunting-ground 
of the Sioux and Cheyennes, who long re- 
sis^ted the attempts of the Government to re- 
move them to a reservation to the northward. 

Passing on up a dry ravine 6 3-10 miles, 
we come to 

Kuril s — another small side-track — and 
nothing else — which is 5 7-10 miles from 

Hillsdale — AVhen the road was being 
constructed from this place to Cheyenne, a 
large amount of freight was re-shipped 
from here on wagons. Then, it was a bu.sy 
placfe, now, only a water-tank and side- 
track. The station was named after a j\Ir. 
Hill, one of the engineering party who was 
killed near this place by the-Indians while 
he was engaged in locating the present 
site of the road. 

About 50 miles to the south is "Fre- 
mont's Orchard," on the South Platte 
River, about 00 miles below Denver City, 
Colorado, and in that State. It was 
named after Col. i^'rcmoui, wiio discovered 
the point in his e.vploring expedition. It 
■consists of a large grove of cottonwood 
trees, mostly on the south side of the river. 



The river here makes an abrupt bend to 
the north, then another to the south, cut- 
ting its way through a high range of sand- 
hills—the third range from the Missouri 
River. Where the river forces its way 
through the bluffs, they are very high and 
abrupt on the south side. The two'bends 
lea\ e a long promontory of sand hills, the 
end of which is washed by the waters. At 
a distance, this grove of cottonwoods on 
the bottom land reminds one of an old 
orchard, such as is often seen in the East- 
ern States. 

Near Fremont's Orchard is located the 
Green Colony, at Green City, which num- 
bers about 100. 

Passing on from Hillsdale np a ravine, 
which gradually ])econu's narrower as we 
ascend, with blufls on either hand, (3 2-10 
miles, we come to 

Atkins— aside-track. Passing on, our 
train gradually rises on to the table-land, 
and lh''n, if the day be a fair one, ihe trav- 
eler can catch the first glimpse of tlie Rocky 
Mountains, directly ahead. On the right 
he can catch glimpses of the Black Hills 
ofAVyoming, stretching their cold, dark 
ruggeduess far a^vay to the right, as far as 



OROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



4& 



the eye can see ; but the bold, black line — 
the dark shadow on the horizon, which will 
soon take tangible shape and reality, but 
which now seems to bar our way as with a 
gloomy impenetrable barrier, is the "Great 
liocky Mountain C!hain," the back-bone of 
the American continent, though bearing 
ditferent names in the Southern hemi^ 
sphere. The highest peak which can be 
seen rising far above that dark line, its white 
sides gleaming above the general darkness, 
is Long's Peak, one of the highest peaks of 
the continent. Away to the left rises 
Pike's Peak, its towering crest robed in 
snow. It is one of those mountains Avhich 
rank among the loftiest. It is one of Col- 
orado's noted mountains, and on a fair day 
is plainly visible from this point, 175 miles 
distant. 

From Atkins it is 5 4-10 miles to 

Ai'cliei' — situated on the high table- 
land, where the cars seldom stop — is eleven 
miles from Hillsdale; and a little farther 
on, the cars pass through the first snow- 
shed on the Union Pacitic road, emerging 
with Crow Creek Valley on the left. 

After passing through a series of chts and 
fills, the track of the Denver Pacific rail- 
road can be seen on the left side, where it 
passes over the bluffs to the southeast. 
Directly ahead can be seen, for several 
miles, the far-famed "Magic City of the 
Plains," 8 4^10 miles from the last sta- 
tion — 

Clieyeiine — which is the capital of 
Wyoming, the largest town between 
Omaha and Ogden. Passenger trains 
fi'om the East and West stop here 30 min- 
utes, for dinner — and no better meals can 
be had on the road than at the Railroad 
House. Distance from Omaha, 516 miles; 
from Ogden 516 miles — just /wZ/the length 
of the Union Pacific road; distance to 
Denver, Colorado, 106 miles. 

Cheyenne is the county seat of Laramie 
county. Population about 6,000. Eleva- 
tion 6,041 feet. It is situated on a broad 
plain, with Crow Creek, a small stream, 
winding around two sides of the town. 
The land rises slightly to the westward. To 
the east it is apparently level, though our 
table of elevations shows to the contrary. 
The soil is composed of a gravelly forma- 
tion, with an average loam deposit. The 
sub-soil shows volcanic matter, mixed with 
marine fossils in large quantities. The 
streets of the town are broad and laid out 
at right angles Avith the railroad. 

Schools and churches are as numerous 



as required, and society is more orderly 
and well regulated than in many western 
places of even older establishment. The 
church ediuccs are the Presbyterian, Con- 
gregational, Episcopal, Methodist, Catho- 
lic, and several of other denominations. 
The city boasts of a $40,000 court-house, 
a $70,000 hotel — the Inter-Ocean — many 
new blocks of buildings, among which 
are, an opera house, banks, and stores of 
all kinds, besides many fine private res- 
idences, also a grand lake or reservoir for 
supplying the city with pure water, con- 
ducted by canal from Crow Creek, from 
whence smaller branches run along the 
sidewalks for the irrigation of gardens, 
trees and shrubbery, which will soon make 
the city a place of surpassing beauty. It 
also boasts of a race-course and some good 
"steppers." It has two dailj^ news- 
papers, the. Leader and the Sttn, both 
of which issue weeklies. 

Cheyenne has the usual small manufac- 
tories, among which the item of saddles 
is an important one, as the saddle of 
the plains and most Spanish countries, 
is a difterent article altogether from the 
Eastern "hogskin." When seated in 
his saddle, the rider fears neither fatigue 
nor injury to his animal. They are made 
for use — to save the animal's strength, as 
well as to give ease and security of seat to 
the rider. The best now in use is made 
with what is known as the "California 
tree." The old firm of E. L. Gallatin & 
Co., make these saddles a specialty, and fill 
orders from all over the western portion of 
the United States. Mexico and Soutli 
America. 

The railroad company's buildings are of 
stone, brought from Granite Canyon, 19 
miles west. They cons i."*^ of a round-house 
of 20 stalls, and machine d repair shop, 
in which are employed 50 men. The 
freight office and depot buildings are of 
wood. The freight office was opened for 
business during the first part of November, 
1867, at which time the road was completed 
to this station. 

No land is cultivated around Cheyenne, 
except a few small gardens around Crow 
Creek. The soil is good, and the hardiest 
kinds of vegetables and grains could be 
raised successfully with irrigation. Graz- 
ing is the main feature of the country. 

The Railroad House, before which all 
passenger trains stop, is one of the finest on 
the road, and has ample accommodations 
for 60 guests. The dining-room, which 



46 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



«veiybody patronizes, as it is celebrated for 
its good fare, is tastefully ornamented with 
the heads and horns of the buffalo, deer, 
elk, antelope, mountain sheep, and other 
game, all preserved and looking as natural 
as life; here, too, is a great variety of 
other interesting specimens. 

The other hotels are the Inter-Ocean, 
Delmonico, on the European plan, Dyer's, 
Simmon's, and Metropolitan. 

Early Times — On the fourth day of 
July, 1867, there was one house in Cheyenne 
— no more. The tirst Mayor of Cheyenne 
Avas H. M. Hook, an old pioneer, elected 
August 10, 1867, who was afterwards 
drowned in Green River, while prospecting 
for new silver mines. 

In the spring of 1869, there -were 6,000 
inhabitants in the place and about the vi- 
cinity ; but as the road extended westward, 
the floating, tide-ser\ing portion followed 
the road, leaving the more permanent set- 
tlers, who have i)ut up substantial build- 
ings of brick and stone, which mark a 
thriving and steadily growing city. 

Cheyenne, at one time, had her share of 
the "roughs" and gambling hells, dance- 
houses, and wild orgies; murders by night 
and day were rather 
the rule instead ot the 
exception. This lasted 
until the business men 
and quiet citizens, tired 
of such doings, and 
suddenly an impromp- 
tu vigilance commit- 
tee appeared on the 
scene, and several of 
the most desperate 
characters were found 
swinging from the 
end of a rope, from 
some convenient eleva^ 
tion. Others, taking 
the hint, which in- 
dicated they would 
take a rope unless they 
mended their ways, 
quietly left the city. 
At present Cheyenne 
is orderly and w^ell- 
governed. 

In the fall of 1869, 
Cheyenne suffered se- 
verely by a large con- 
flagration, which de- 
stroyed a considerable 
portion of the busi- 
ness part of the town. 



involving a loss of half-a-million dollars. 
The inhabitants, with commendable zeal, 
rebuilt, in many instances, with more 
durable material than before. 

GOVERNMENT FORTS AND CAMPS. 

Fort D. A. Russell — This post was es- 
tablished July iJl, 18j7, by General Auger, 
and intended to accommodate sixteen com- 
panies. It is three mile? from Cheyenne, 
on Crow Creek, which washes two sides 
of the enclosure. Latitude 41 deg. 08 min. ; 
longitude 10 deg 4.5 min. It is connected by 
sule-track with the Union Pacific railroad 
at Cheyenne. The quarter-master's depart- 
ment — 13 store-houses — is located between 
the fort and the town, at " Camp Carling." 
Several million pounds of Govei-nment 
stores are gathered here, from which the 
forts to the northwest draw their supplies. 
The reservation on w^hich the fort is situ- 
ated v/as declarefl by the President, June 
28th, 1869, and contains 4,512 acres. 

Fort Laramie — This fort was estab- 
lished August 12th, 1869, by Major W. F. 
Sanderson, Mounted Rifles. The place, 
once a trading post of the Northwestern 
Fur Company, was purchased by the Gov- 
ernment, through Brice Husband, the com- 




DOWN THE WEBER RIVER, NEAR MORGAN CITY 



CEOFUTT S xVEAV OVERLAND TOURIST 



47 



pany's agent, for the site of a military post. 
It was at one time the winter quarters of 
many trajDpers and hunters. It is also 
noted as being the place where several 
treaties have been made between the sava- 
ges and whites — many of the former living 
around the fort, fed by Government, 
and stealing its stock in return. The res- 
ervation, declared by the President on the 
28th of June, 1869, consists of 54 square 
miles. It is situated 89 miles from Chey- 
enne — the nearest railroad statin — on the 
left bank of the Laramie, about two miles 
from its junction with the North Platte, 
and on the Overland road to Oregoa and 
California. Latitude 42 deg. 12 min. 38 
sec; longitude 104 deg. 31 min. 26 sec. 

FoktFettermak — This post was named 
in honor of Brevet Lieutenant. Col. Wm J 
Fetterman, Captain 18th Infantiy, killed 
at the Fort Phil. Kearny massacre, Decem 
ber 21st, 1866 , established July 19th, 1864, 
by four companies of the Fourth Infantry, 
under command of Brevet Colonel William 
McE. Dey, Major Fourth Infantry It is 
situated at the mouth of La Poele Creek, 
on the south side of the North Platte River, 
135 miles from Cheyenne, 90 miles south of 
Fort Reno, and 70 miles northwesterly 
from Fort Laramie; latitude 42 deg. 49 
min. 08 sec, longitude 105 deg. 27 min. 03 
sec The reservation of sixty square miles 
was declared June 28th, 1869. Cheyenne 
is the nearest railroad station. The regu- 
lar conveyance from Cheyenne to the Fort 
is by Government mail ambulance and 
Black Hills stages. 

Fort Casper — ^was situated on the 
North Platte River, at'what was known as 
" Old Platte Bridge," on the Overland road 
to California and Oregon, 55 miles north of 
Fort Fetterman; was built during the late 
war; re-built bjr the 18th Infantry in 18G6, 
and abandoned in 1867. Its garrison, mu- 
nitions of war, etc., were transferred to 
Fort Fetterman. The bridge across the 
Platte at this place cost $65,000 — a wooden 
structure, which was destroyed by the In- 
f^ians shortly after the abandonment of the 
post. 

Fort Reno — ^was established during the 
war by General E. P Connor, for the pro- 
tection of the Powder River country It 
was situated on the Powder River, 225 
miles from Cheyenne, 90 miles from Fort 
Fetterman, and 65 miles from Fort Phil 
Kearny. It was re-built in 1866 by the 
18th Infantry, and abandoned in July, 
1868. 



Fort Phil. Kearny — was established 
July, 1866, by four companies of the 18th 
Infantry, under command of Colonel H. 
B. Carrington, 18th Infantry. This post 
was situated 290 miles north of Oiey- 
cnne, in the very heart of the hunt- 
ing grounds of the northern Indians, and 
hence the trouble the troops had with 
the Indians in establishing it. Near this 
post is where the great massacre took 
place in 1866. It was abandoned in July, 
1868. 

Fort C. F Smith — was established in 
1866. by Brevet Lieutenant-Colonel N C 
Kinney, Captain 18th Infantry, and two 
companies of that regiment. It was at the 
foot of the Big Horn Mountain, on the Big 
HcMu River, 90 miles from Fort Phil. 
Kearny, and 380 from Cheyenne. It was 
abandoned in July. 1868 

Here tne thoughtful will note, that the 
Government established four forts in this 
northern Powder River countrv, for the 
protection of the white man as against the 
Indian To the occupancy of the country 
the Indians protestetl, and the Government 
acceeded, and made a treaty yielding up 
possession of tne whole country north of 
the North Platte River— the Black Hills 
included — and abandoned the posts and the 
country to the Indians. When gold was 
discovered in this — acknowledged — Indian 
country, and the white man commenced to 
invade it — in search of gold — the Govern- 
ment attempted to prevent their trespassing, 
and to keep faith with the Indians and 
Gen. Sheridan issued his orders against 
this invasion, and sent soldiers to arrest 
all parties in the "Hills," and prevent 
Others from going to them. Finally, the 
Government "winked" at emigration 
which it could not, or would not prevent. 
"VVliat see we now ? The white man has 
taken the Indian's country, that our Gov- 
ernment has acknowledged belonged to the 
latter, has dr/'oen the Indians out, beggars: 
as they are, with only the bread that the 
Government chooses to toss to them. We 
are no '' Indian lover," but, if the Govern- 
ment had a right to build these posts, they 
should never have abandoned them ; having 
abandoned them, and treated with the 
Indian, as an equal, where is our boasted 
" civilization," when, though the lands do 
contain gold, we take them without a 
" thank you," as the elephant would crush 
a toad. Does might make right? 



Plains teamsters call a meal a "grub-pile" 



48 



crofutt's new overland tourist. 



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PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



49 



Union P acific R ailway. 

KANSAS PACIFIC DIVISION. 

D. E. Cornell General Agknt, Kansas Citt. 



Passengers at Kansas City for the 
"Overland Route," u/a Colorado, Utah 
and Nevada, will step into the Palace 
Cars and superb coaches of the Kansas 
Pacific Division of the U. P. Ry. ; pass 
through Denver and connect at Chey- 
enne, Wyo., with the " Overland "train 
from Omaha. See " Time Table." 

To write the history and record the 
prosperity of the Kansas Pacific and 
the country tributary, in the brief 
space allotted for that purpose in the 
"Overland," it will be impossible to 
more than register a "telegram" of 
the most important matters, those of 
the greatest interest to the tourist or 
emigrant. 

The Kansas Paci lie Railway Compa- 
ny, formerly tlie "Leavenworth, Paw- 
nee and Western," was incorporated by 
Act of Congress July 1, 18G2, to con- 
struct a railroad and telegraph line 
from the Missouri River, at the mouth 
of the Kansjis, to connect with tlie 
Pacific Railrojid of ;Missouri, to tlie 
lOOth meridian of longitude, upon the 
same terms and conditions as provided 
for the construction of the Pacific 
Railroad across the continent, and to 
meet and connect at the meridian 
above named. 

The route proposed was from the 
mouth of the Kansas River to the 
junction of the Republican Fork, at 
Fort Riley; thence up the Republican, 
over the " divide" and Platte River and 
connect with the Union Pacific near 
Kearny Station. 

Work commenced on the " K. P." at 
Wyandotte. Kansas, September 1, 1803. 

By Act of Congress of July 2, 18G4, 
the company acquired additional 
rights; and again, by amendment of 
the original Act, approved July 3, 186G, 
was authorized to change their route 
and build westward— on the 39th par- 
allel—from Fort Riley up the Smoky 
Hill River to Denver, in Colorado; 
thence to a junction with the Union 
Pacific at or near Cheyenne, Wyoming. 
4 



Tlie road was completed to Denver" 
in 1870, and in 1872, by the purchase of 
a controlling interest in the Denver 
Pacific, reached Cheyenne ; and again, by 
a sale in 1879, passed to the management 
of Union Pacific parties, where it still 
remains. Distance from Kansas City 
to Denver, 639 miles; from Denver to 
Cheyenne, 106 miles. The branch lines, 
six in number, make a mileage, re- 
spectively : 32 miles, 40 miles, 57 miles, 
70 miles, -21 miles and 23 miles; total, 
branches, 249 miles ; total, whole line, 
994 miles. 

Kansas City is the eastern termi- 
nus of the main line of the Kansas 
Pacific Railway. Prior to 1839 the 
place was known as " Westport Land- 
ing," but in that year was changed to 
Kansas City, with a population — most- 
ly traders, hunters and trappers — of 
300. iVoi^j it claims G1,000. The city is 
built on a high bluff on the south bank 
of the great bend of the Missouri 
River, just below the mouth of the 
" Kaw " — or Kansas River. Its central 
location has, from the first, enabled it 
to control a large trade with the coun- 
try to the west and southward, which, 
since the advent of railroads, has 
grown to an enormous business. The 
Missouri Pacific was the first railroad 
completed to Kansas City from the 
eastward, where it arrived October 1, 
1865, since which time nine have ar- 
rived to bid for and share the business 
which often taxes their entire combined 
capacity. As a live stock center — cat- 
tle, sheep and hogs — and for slaughter- 
ing, packing or shipping, Kansas City 
has no equal in the western country. 
The stock yards, beef and pork packing 
establishments are immense — are situa- 
ted on the bottom lands in the western 
part of the city, south of the Union 
Depot, and are well worthy a visit by 
the traveller. 

The fiTst bridge over the Missouri 
was commenced at Kansas City, and its 
completion celebrated July 4, 1869. 



50 



cnoFUTT s NEAv ovE :land tourist 



Kansas City pusscsses all the modern 
improvements— lioise railroads, tas, 
water works, etc.; churches and scliools 
in great numbers, opera house, theatre, 
daily jiapers, and of hotels, a few dozen, 
chief of which are the Coates, St. James 
and Pacific. 

Wyandotte, Kansas, is about two 
miles west, across the Kans;is llivei", 
and might well be called a suburb of 
Kansas City— it is connected by horse 
cars— has a population of about 6,ouO, 
many of whom do Ijusiness in Kansas 
City and reside in AVyandotte. The 
town is on a portion of the lands once 
owned by the Delaware Indians, wlio 
Bold them in 1842 to the Wyandotte In- 
dians, the remnants of a tribe from the 
State of Ohio. The lands are in a high 
Btate of cultivation, and large orchards 
of fruit are numerous. 

Tlie Kansas State Institution for the 
Blind is located at AVyandotte. 

Leaving the Union Depot— which is 
used by all the railroads in common 
that enter Kansas City— we soon cross 
the Kansas River and the State Line, 
pass Armstrong at the end of one 
mile — where are located the machine 
shops of the Kansas Pacilic- and fol- 
lowing along on the west bank of the 
river one-lialf mile further to Muncy 
Siding. The river in places is close on 
the left; the bottoms are wide and 
covered witli trees, with here and 
there a clearing. On the right the view 
is obstructed by high bluffs covered 
with brush or small trees. Continuing 
on 4.4 miles we come to Edwards- 
ville; 3.6 miles more to Tiblow, 
and 3.2 miles to Loring, from which 
it is three miles to Lenape, and 4.4 
miles more to Linwood, where Strang- 
er Creek is crossed. 

The timber on the Kansas River bot- 
toms consists of red and burr oak, 
hackberry, ash, hickory, cottonwood 
and sycamore. The acreage under cul- 
tivation is increasing, and after a run 
of five miles from Linwood we pass 
Fall Leaf, an unimportant station, be- 
yond which the country fairly "spreads 
out," and we get a first view of the 
great rolling prairies of Kansas. 

Leavenworth Junction is the 
next station; distance 4.5 miles from 
Fall Leaf, 36 miles from Kansas City 



and 32 miles from Lea »-en worth. Let 
us take a run over tne 
liCaveiiworth Branck, — This 

road runs through a section of country 
the greater portion of which is under 
cultivation. Tlie stations are Reno, 
five miles; Tonganoxie, two miles; 
Moore's Summit, two miles; Bio 
Stranger, three miles; IIoge, four 
miles, and five more to Fairmont, the 
most important station on the line. It 
is situated on a i)ortion of the Dela- 
ware Indian Reservation, first pur- 
chased from the Indians by the Kansas 
Pacific Railway Company, and by them 
re-sold to a class of farmers and stock 
raisers who have become prosperous. 

After leaving Fairmont several 
small stations are passed — the first, 
Penitentiary, where the State insti- 
tution of that name is located — and a 
run of ten miles brings us to 

Iieaveii worth, situated on the 
west bank of the Missouri River, and 
contains a ]»opulation of 18.000. It 
was settled in 1854, and is surrounded 
by a section of country of unsurpass- 
ing fertility. Leavenworth has all the 
metropolitan features of a big city — 
horse railroads, gas, water works, a big 
railroad bridge over the Missouri, 
twentv-six cliurclies, exclusive of a 
Catholic cathedral that cost .$130,000, 
nine banks, six daily papers and a score 
or more of hotels, besides quite a num- 
ber of manufactories. 

Fort Leavenworth is two miles north 
of the city— established in 1827- and 
is now the headquarters' Department 
of tlie Missouri. 

Returning to the Junction, about one 
mile and we are at 

Bismark Grove— On the right of 
the road. It contains about 40 acres 
heavily timbered witli oaks and elms, 
in the center of which is a beautiful 
lake. This grove has become widely 
known of late as the place where the 
first National Temperance Camp 
Meeting was held. 

From the Grove it is one mile to 

liaivrence. — So named for the mil- 
lionaire Lawrences, of Boston, Mass. 
The city proper is opposite the depot, 
on the south side of the Kansas River, 
about one mile distant, readied bj 
several fine bridges. It is situated in 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



51 



the midst of the richest and most fer- 
tile section of Kansas, as well as be- 
ing the most beautiful city in the State. 
Here, too, are street railroads, gas, 
water works, and, in fact, all tlie im- 
provements and conveniences found in 
tlie large cities east. Population, 
about 15,000. Settled in 1854. Raided 
by Quantrell's band, August 21, ISo:;, 
who burned the town and murdered 
upwards of 100 unarmed citizens. 

In the southern portion of the city is 
located the State University, on the 
summit of Mount Oread ; from which 
point you look upon a very beautiful 
landscape, dotted, in all directions, 
with hundreds of farm houses. 

The Carbonda LE Branch of the "K. 
P." leads off from this place — .32 miles 
to Carbondale. The stations and distan- 
ces between, are: Siegel, 7.5 miles; Bel- 
voir, 5 miles; Richland, 6.3 miles; Kin- 
ney's 8.2 miles ; S ummit,4 miles ; Carbon- 
dale, 1 mile. 

Th ' Leavenworth, Lawrence a;id 
Galveston Railroad, coming in from 
the South, is another element of pros- 
perity for the city. 

From Lawrence it is 6.4 miles to 
Buck Creek, a small station, then 
tliree more to Williamston, and 3.2 
miles to Perryville. These are all 
small stations, surrounded by a thrifty 
farming community, and are gro a ing 
in importance. Ab.mt one mile be- 
yond Perryville, we cross Grasshopper 
River, upon which are located several 
llouring mills, and small manufactor- 
ies. The river is well timbered, — oak, 
hickory, elm, ash, Cottonwood and soft 
maple, principally. 

The Grassliopper unites with the 
Kansas River, opi)osite the old town of 
Lecompton, of "Lecompton constitu- 
tion" notoriety. The soil is a black 
loam, and very productive. The lands 
were once a portion of the Delaware 
Indian Reservation. From Perryville 
it is 3.2 miles to 

Medina. — The town was laid out 
in 1860, and with the near surroundings, 
has a population of about 1,500, mostly 
engaged in agricultural pursuits. 

Two miles north of the station is 
located the old "Indian Mill Farm," 
which has been under cultivation lor 
over 35 years. From Medina it is 2.5 



miles to Newman from which it is 5.2 
miles to Grantsville, a small station 
of the west bank of Muddy Creek. 
Tills section is noted, if at all, for its 
"Osage Orange" hedges, some of \\ hich 
are very fine. Six miles further, and 
our road crosses the track of the 
Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Rail- 
road, which is completed from Atchi- 
son and Kansas City to Deming, 
in New Mexico, with the Pacific Coast 
for an objection point. The crossing 
is only a few hundred yards from the 
depot at 

Topeka — The capital of the State. 
Population, 15,43:>. Here passenger 
trains stop 20 minutes for meals. 

Topeka is in Siiawnee County, situat- 
ed on the north bank of the l-Cansas 
River, and surrounded by a very rich 
and fertile country; was located in 
1854. The river is crossed at Topeka 
on one of the "King Iron Tubular 
Bridges," a solid structure 900 feet in 
length, composed of six spans, resting 
on stone piers, built from the "bed 
rock" in the river. 

The Capitol is a fine building, built 
of what is called in this country "Junc- 
tion City Marble," a white magnesian 
limestone, found in many places in the 
State. It can be quarried in blocks 
f 1 om - to 10 tons in weight, and when 
fresh from the quarry is very easy to 
saw. The Government buildings at 
Fort Riley are built of this kind of stone, 
and has proved satisfactory. The Capi- 
tol cost «400,000. 

While we are here at the Seat of 
Government, we will note a few items 
in regard to the State. Kansas has an 
area of 52,053,520 acres, of which 4U,- 
000,000 is unimproved, awaiting tlie 
reader. Price from $1.25 to SM per 
acre. Present population of the State 
9'.)5,3;^5. It has a school fund of $1,555,- 
3G0, which is augraenti ng yearly. There 
are 4,520 school houses, 6,359 teachers, 
and 26ti,576 scholars. Then there are 
three Normal Schools, for educating 
teachers; the University at Lawrence, 
and the Agricultural College at Man- 
hattan. On the line of the Kansas 
Pacific, there are 76 grain elevators, 
with storage capacity of 2,515,10i) bush- 
els; and 52 flouring mills, with lO'J run 
of stone; capacity, 4,310 barrels per day. 



52 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



Leaving Topeka, Me-no-ken, a 
small stiitioii, is reached in 4.7 miles; 
Silver Lake in 5.9; Kinosville in 
2.7 ; RossviLLK in 2.8, and 7.6 miles 
more to 

St. Mary's — an important station, 
in some respects. The country for the 
last 25 miles, and surrounding the 
town, is thickly settled, and the greater 
portion cultivated. Corn is the prin- 
cipal crop, though much wheat and 
vegetables are raised. 

The Jesuit Fathers visited this 
country nearly 40 years ago, and estab- 
lished Mission Schools among the In- 
dians. More recently they have erect- 
ed here large educational institutions; 
one for ladies, is known as "The Sem- 
inary of the Sacred Heart." The build- 
ing to the north of the railroad, is of 
brick, with stone trimmings. 100 feet 
front and four stories in height, com- 
pleted in 187L The College for males 
IS adjoining, and can accommodate 
1,300 students. 

From St. Mary's it is 6.2 miles to 
Belvue, a small station 6.9 miles from 
the end of the Kaw Division, First 
District, which is at 

Wamego.— This is a large and 
thriving town situated in the midst of 
a country well watered by numerous 
small creeks, very fertile and thickly 
settled. The next station, 6.6 miles, is 
St. George, another growing town of 
about 700 population, from which it is 
7.8 miles to 

Manhattan. — Population, about 
2,000 ; County Seat of Riley County, 117 
miles west of Kansas City. The town 
is situated near the junction of the 
Kansas and Blue rivers, was settled in 
1854 by a colony of Ohio "Pilgrims," 
who purchased a small steamboat at 
Cincinnati, steamed down the Ohio 
river, and thence up the Mississippi, 
Missouri, and Kansas rivers to this 
place, wliere they settled, in what was 
then a wild Indian country, living on 
their boat until buildings could be 
erected, 

T lie Kansas State Agricultural Col- 
lege — an experimental farm — is located 
at Manhattan. Congress, in its benev- 
olent wisdom, endowed this Cnllege 
with aland grant of 81,000 acres, 50,000 
of which has been sold, realizing the 



snug sum of $238,000. The institution 
has 400 acres fenced and cultivate the 
greater portion with vineyards and 
orchards of fruit of every variety. 
Leaving Manhattan a few miles, the 
bluffs come close on the right, in places 
500 feet in height, covered with trees, 
rocks and grass alternating, while the 
river comes in close to the road, 
on the left, and again receding for 
miles, along the banks of which ash, 
oak, hickory, cottonwood and elm trees 
grow in profusion. Here, too, can be 
seen some fine farms, surrounded by 
beautiful osage orange liedge From 
Manhattan it is 11. i miles to 

Ogden — A town of some historic 
interest in the annals of the State, as 
being the place where the first Terri- 
torial Legislature, convened by Gov. 
Reeder, met to " Save the Country " 
The place was firsi settled in 1856. Six 
miles further is the station of 

Fort Riley— So called for the Fort 
of that name, situated upon the high 
plateau to the right ; established in 1852, 
is in latitude 39° nortu, 96°30'' west. 
The post was first known as " Camp 
Center," being situated in the geograr 
phical center of the United States. 

.function City.— County Seat of 
Davis County, is 2.7 miles west of Fort 
Riley, and is destined to be a place of 
much importance. It was located in 
1859, has grown rapidly and now con- 
tains 5,000 population. Here, is located 
the marble quarries before alluded to; 
here, too, is the northern terminus of 
the Missouri, Kansas & Texas Railroad, 
and the Junction City & Fort Kearny 
Railway, The Republican River unites 
with the Kansas River at this point, 
up which is completed the J., C. & F. 
K. Railway, a branch of tli ■ Kansas 
Pacific, to Concordia, 70 miles north- 
west. The stations and distances 
between are: Alder, 7.7 miles; Milford, 
5.4 miles ; Wakefield, 6 miles ; Clay Cen- 
ter, 14 miles; Morganville, 7.6 miles; 
Clifton, 8.7 miles ; C, B., U. P. Crossing, 
4.9 miles; Clyde, 0.8 miles; Lawrence- 
burg, 7.6 miles; Concordia, 7.4 miles. 

The valley of the Republican is one 
of the richest and most productive in 
the State. It was the Indian's home, to 
retain which he fought tlie white man 
long and bitterly, and with the usual 



PACIFIC COAST (irn>K. 



53 



result, the Indian Jiad to go I He went I 
Wliere once roamed his " pony herd " 
in tiiousands, now can be cou ite I the 
dwellings of his successors in equal 
numbers; where once tlie Indian's beef 
(buffalo) ranged in untold millions now 
range the while man's beef. The buf- 
falo has gone — went with the Indians. 
Will tlie time ever come when the "suc- 
cessors" will he succeededhy ii stronger 
and more enlightened race? Will they 
in turn ever be driven out and exter- 
minated? — Quien saheW 

At Junction City the Smoky Hill 
river comes in from tlie southward, 
which, with the Republican, forms the 
Kansas river. The Smoky will be on 
our left for the next 47 miles, to Salina. 

After leaving Junction City, a pecu- 
liar rock formation is noticeable on the 
right along the summit of the bluffs 
resembling a long line of fortifications. 

Another item, we record for the ben- 
efit of the sportsman ; feathered game 
in great abundance are found on the 
prairies, and along the rivers and small 
streams in Kansas, sucli as prairie 
chicken, quail, ducks, geese, snipe, 
plover, swans, cranes, pelican, an 
many other varieties. 

Then a run of .5.8 miles to CnAPMAN, 
8.2 miles to Detroit, and 5.2 miles more 
and we reach 

Abilene — county seat of Dicken- 
son county. Population .about 2,000. 
Piissenger train* stop 30 minutes — oppo- 
site the Henry House — for meals, which 
are the best on the road. 

This station was the first gi-eat cattle 
shipiting point on the Kansas Pacific 
Railway. From 1SG7 to 1870, the number 
loaded on the cars and sent east, were 
from 75,000 to 150,000 a year, but as the 
agriculturalist crowded in, the cattle- 
men were crowded out, and we will 
find them now — far to the westward. 

We are now in what is called the 
"Golden Belt" — so named for the won- 
derful adaptability of the country for 
raising wheat and other small grains, 
These "belt" lands, it is claimed, com- 
mence near Junction City, and ex- 
tends beyond Ellis— about 200 miles in 
length. Wheat is the principal crop, 
and comprises one half of all the pro- 
ductions. There are several fields of 
wheat, near Abilene, of 1.000 acres each. 



one of 3,000, and one of .^,500. Of late 
years, tree-planting h;is been quite an 
industry. Orchards of fruit are num- 
erous, and successfully raised. 

From Abilene it is 4.4 miles to Sand 
Springs, a Signal Station, thence 4.6 
miles to 

Solomon — situated near the junc- 
tion of the Smoky Hill and Solomon 
Rivers, in the midst of a thrifty agri- 
cultural section. Population about 500. 

The Solomon Railroad, another 
branch of the "K. P.," is built up the 
valley of the Solomon to Reloit, 58 miles 
northwest from this station. Several 
Salt Springs are near the town, and the 
buildings erected for the purpose of 
manufacturing the salt are quite ex- 
tensive, and can be seen from the cars 
after leaving the station. 

Leaving Solomon, we cross the river 
of that name, and 7.8 miles arrive at 
New Cambria, a small station situated 
on a broad plain, dotted, in all direc- 
tions with the neat little cottages of 
the settlers, who are principally engag- 
ed raising wheat and corn. Six miles 
further we reach 

ISalina— the County Seat of Salina 
County, settled in 1858. Just before 
reaching the station we cross the Sali- 
na River, which comes down from the 
north-west. 

Salina has a population of about 
3,000, some large grain elevators, several 
good hotels, papers and another railroad, 
tlie Salina & Soutiiwestei{n. This 
branch comes to McPherson,distant3G 
miles to the southwest. Situated on 
the Smoky Hill River, near the Swed- 
ish colony who settled here in J 870. 

The principal occui)ation of the peo- 
ple is agriculture, although there are 
many herds of cattle and sheep in the 
county, and some extensive quarries of 
Gypsum, or Plaster of Paris, also sev- 
eral Salt Sprin^js that are being utelized 
for the production of salt. 

Along all the rivers and streams 
about this section of country are belts 
of timber, consisting of Cottonwood, 
oak, mulbej ry, elm and hackberry. 

Bavaria — is the next station 8.4 
miles from Salina, where is located a 
colony from the Western Reserve of 
Ohio, who settled here in iSOf). This 
colony has been very success lul, wheat 



54 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



and com crops being their reliance. A 
run of 6.6 miles brings us to the end of 
the second district of the Kaw Valley 
Division of tlie road, at 

Brookville.— Here the Railroad 
Company have the usual division re- 
pair shops, good depot buildings, and 
extensive cattle pens. Population, 
about 500. The country surrounding 
the station is a rolling prairie, on which 
can be seen, besides the usual wheat 
and corn fields, an occasional herd of 
cattle and sheep. Leaving Brookville, 
we pass several small stations in the 
order, and distances between as fol- 
lows: 4.2 miles to Rock Springs; 1.8 
miles to Terra Cotta; 4.4 miles to 
Elm Creek; 5.1 miles to Summit Sid- 
ing ; 2.5 miles to Fort Harker, and 
old Government post, on the left, built 
in 1867-8. abandoned ; and 4.7 miles to 

Ellsworth— County Seat of Ells- 
worth County, situated on the north 
bend of the Smoky Hill River. Set- 
tled in 1867 ; present population 1,100. 
The town has some good stone build- 
ings, a large grain elevator, several 
hotels, cattle pens and shutes — tlie 
latter not of much use of late, as the 
farmers are crowding the cattle-men a 
little further west. 

The next station is Black Wolf, 7.2 
miles; then Cow Creek, 2.3 miles. 

Wilson's — is 6.5 miles from Cow 
Creek. This is a thrifty town of 400 
population, situated in a rolling prairie 
country, fast tilling up with settlers. 
From Wilson's it is 6.4 miles to Dar- 
KANCE, and 7.3 miles to Bunker Hill, 
the County Seat of Russell County, 
population, 400; first settled in 1871, by 
a colonv from Ohio. Near the station 
Salt Springs abound, lime stone is 
plentiful, some coal, and abundance of 
mineral paint, and pottery c'av. Pass- 
ing on we pass through IIomer in 5.3 
miles, and 4.6 miles more to 

Itussell — population about 800; 
settled in 1861, by a colony from Ripon, 
Wisconsin, and is situated about four 
miles south of the south bend of tlie 
Saline River, and surrounded by rich 
agricultural lands, well cultivated. 
Leaving Russell it is 0.1 miles to GoR- 
HAM ; three more to Walker; and 3.9 
miles further to 

Victoria— Six miles south of the 



station is located the "Victoria Colony," 
established by the late Mr. George 
Grant,a wealthy scotchman.who bought 
30,000 acres of land here, sold a portion 
to settlers and retained a large estate 
for himself. The lands have a rich soil, 
are well cultivated, and dotted in all di- 
rections with the homes of the settlers, 
and their herd of horses, cattle, and 
sheep. From Victoria it is 1 0.5 miles to 

Hays — County Seat of Ellis County 
—named for the post established in 
1867, about half a mile south of the 
station on a high plateau. Hays has a 
population exclusively of soldiers, of 
about 700, many of whom are engaged 
in stock-raising — as be it known we 
have reached the western limits of the 
agriculturalists, and soon will bid them 
l^ood bye, and grip the hand of the 
lierdsman. 

The next station is 13.2 miles distant, 
and is the end of the third district of 
the Smoky Hill Division. 

Ellis.— We are now on the "Cattle 
Trail." At this station are immense 
yards and shutes, for the accommoda- 
tion of stockmen, many of whom drive 
up great droves of cattle from Texas, 
and the country to the southwest, as 
well as graze them in the surround- 
ing country. In fact, this is the great- 
est cattle-shipping point on the road. 
The grasses are mostly "bunch grass" 
and "buffalo," or "grandma grass," the 
richest and most nutritious grown. 
The aiticle on "Western Stock Raising," 
—in Annex. No. 29— will apply equally 
as well in this section as the one for 
which it was written. 

Ellis has about 500 enterprising, law- 
abiding citizens, most of them are en- 
gaged in stock-raising, yet, ot late, the 
agriculturalists are crowding in, buy- 
ing up the lands, and it will not be 
long before the cattle-men — who do 
not buy land— will have to go west. 

From Ellis it is 10.3 miles to Oqal- 
lah, an unimportant station, from 
which it is 9 miles to 

\Va-Keeney,— one of the most en- 
terprising towns on the road. It con- 
tains about .500 citizens, many of them 
are engaged in agricultural pursuits, 
but the greater portion in the cattle 
business. Here we find one of the 
finest depot buildings on the road ; it is 



PACIFIC COxVST GUIDE. 



55 




tox^* 




SUMMIT OF THE MOUNTAIXR, I0,000 FEET HIGH. 



100 feet by 30 feet, aod 32 feet high, 
surmounted with a tower 50 feet high, 
and a platform 27 feet wide. There 
are many fine stone buildings, princi- 
pal of which is the Oaks House. Leav- 
ing "Wa-Iveeney, we pass on rapidly 
through a section of country almost 
wholly occupied by cattle men, pass- 
ing the stations, with the distances 
between as follows: Colyer, 14.1 
miles; Buffalo, 14.3 miles ;GRAiNFiELr), 
5.5 miles ; Giunnell, 9 miles ; Caelyle, 
12.1 miles; Mox't Siding, 9.4 miles; 
MoNUMEifc, 2 miles ; Gopher, 9.7 miles ; 
Sheridan, 7.6 miles; and 15.1 miles 
more to 

Wallace — A regular eating station, 
where good meals are served for 75 cts. 
Population about 2.50. It is the end of 
the third district of the Smoky Hill 
Division, and the commencement of 



the Denver Division. The station is 
in the midst of a rolling prairie, two 
miles north-west of Fort Wallace, 
established in 1866. It is situated on 
the fork of the Smoky Hill Kiver, in 
latitude 38 deg., 55 min.. and longitude 
100 deg., 50 min. from Greenwich. 

For the last hundred miles the coun- 
try is almost wholly occupied by the 
cattle-men, and willcontinue to be for 
the next 150 miles, so we shall pass 
mostof the stations, by simply naming 
them and the distance between : From 
Wallace it is 8.5 miles to Eagle Tail; 
8.3 miles to Monnotony Siding; 3.2 
miles to Monnotony^ — we are nearing 
Monnotony on all sides now — 12 miles 
to Arapaho, where the State line is 
crossed, and we enter Colorado ; 
9.5 miles to Cheyenne Wells ; 10.5 
miles to First View— where, if the 




56 



crofutt's new overland tourist. 



^7 



day be clear, the fli'st view of Pike's 
Peak and the PiOelcy Mountains are to 
be had— and 14.7 miles more to 

M.it UarsoiJ— named for the old 
liunter,trapper and guide of that name 
— and somewliat famous as being the 
]:)laee where the Grand Duke Alexis of 
Bussia tarried to hunt buffalo, in Jan- 
luary, 1872. It was a big hunt, and it 
is said that the Duke killed 40 of the 
noble animals, and, by the way, we 
have been in the old buffalo range for 
the last 250 miles, but, of late years, 
few, if any, have been seen— went with 
the Indians. From Kit Carson it is 
11.9 miles to Wild Horse, named for a 
band of wild horses that once roamed 
over this country ; 10.9 miles to Aroyo ; 
13.4 to Mirage, and 11 more to 

Hngo — an eating station, from 
which it is 12.5 to Lake, wdiere are a 
few pools of water. 8.8 miles to River 
Bend, situated on the big bend of the 
Big Sandy Creek; G.3 miles to Cedar 
Point; 4.2 miles to Godfry's, where 
there are some coal mines of fair qua- 
lity ; 4.9 miles to Agate, noted for the 
moss agates found near the station; 
12.2 miles to Deer Tail, situated on 
East Bijou Creek; 12 miles to Byers. 
Prom Byers it is 12.4 miles to Bennet ; 
9.4 miles to Box Elder, situated on a 
creek of that name; from which it is 
12.4 miles to Schuyler, and 9.3 miles 
more to Denver. 

Remember! For full and complete 
information in regard to Colorado, its 
wonderful mines of gold, silver, cop- 



per and other precious metals, its 
agricultural, stock-raising and varied 
resources ; its pleasure resorts, lakes, 
rivers, mountains, parks, sulphur, so- 
da, hot and medicinal springs ; its 
magnificent scenery, railways, etc., 
].)uy "Crofutt's Grip-Sack Guide" of 
Colorado, a complete encyclopedia of 
the State, profusely illustrated. 

" Tour" No. one gives a complete 
description of the route and country 
from Denver to Cheyenne, where con- 
nections are made with the Overland 
trains from Omaha and San Francis- 
co. Sold on all trains. 

Leaving Cheyenne, just in the bor- 
der of the city we cross Crow Creek, 
and about two miles from the city — 
by looking to the right, northward — 
a fine view can be had of Fort Davy 
Russell, previously described. We 
are now ascending the eastern slope 
of the southern range of the Black 
Hills of Wyoming, which are stretch- 
ing away in a long rugged line be- 
fore us. 

Colorado Jniifiioii — six miles 
west of Cheyenne, is the first station 
we reach, and the junction of the Co- 
lorado Central Branch The track 
turns off at the left of the station and 
crosses the prairie and hills to the 
southward. Four miles from the 
Junction, Borie, a small side-track, is 
passed, from which it is 4.2 miles to 

Otto — Passenger trains usually 
meet here, stop a few moments, ex- 
change letters and papers, then pass on 




FIRST STEAM RAILROAD TRAIII I^i AMTflRlCA. 



The above illusti'ation Tras drawn and en- 
graved from the original painting in the posses- 
sion of the Connecticut Historical Society, and 
represents an Excursion Train on the Mohawk 
and Hudson B. R. from Albany to Schenectady, 
N. Y., in 1831, the FIRST steam train in America. 
The engine was the "John Bull," imported 
from England, as well as the engineer, John 
Hampton, " expressly for this road, at large ex- 
pense." Her cylinder was 5'o inches, 1 G inch 
stroke, wlieels i'-.. feet. The boilers had thirty 
copper tubes, five feet long, fourinches in diame- 
ter. Conncctingrods are worked on doublecranks 



on front axle. Weight of engine, complete, 4 tons. 
The tender represents the method of carrying the 
fuel — wood— in barrels, with a few sticks handy 
for immediate use. The earn were regular stage 
bodies set on car wheels. On this grand excur- 
sion trial trip were sixteen persons, who were 
then thought venturesome, many of whom have 
since filled important positions in the councils of 
the country. Mr. Sidney DiUon, President of 
the Union I'.icificR. li., it seems, was one of the 
adventurous few. Here is food for thought and 
comparison with the iuiprovemeuts of the pres- 
ent day. 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



57 



— one going East for light, the other West 
for kno'wledge. 

We are now 6,724 feet above the sea, and 
the traveler should note the rapid rise 
made from this point, in surmounting the 
Blaclv Hills. Here the heavy grading 
commences, and snow fences will be nu- 
merous till we get over the " Hills." To 
the north of this place, at the base of the 
Hills, is a tine valley, where Crow Creek 
finds its source in many fine springs. The 
valley contains very superior grazing 
land, and in conjunction with the adja- 
cent hills, attbrds ample game foi* the 
hunter. 

Fifteen miles from this station, to the 
north, at the eastern entrance of Cheyenne 
Pass, is the site of old Fort Walbach, 
now deserted. Near this fort are the head 
waters of Lodge Pole Creek. 

Cii-ranite Canyon — is five miles west 
of Otto, and 574 feet higher. At this point 
are extensive stone quarries, whence was 
taken the rock for the company's build- 
ings in Cheyenne, also for the stone ware- 
houses. Limestone abounds in this vicin- 
ity, and many kilns have been erected. To 
the left of the road, and down the canyon 
a few hundred yatds, is a fine spring, from 
whence the water is elevated to the tank 
by the roadside. Half a mile to the south 
are a number of fine springs, which — with 
others to the westward — are the head-wa- 
ters of Lone Tree Creek, a tributary of the 
South Platte lliver. Along the road now 
is heavy rock-work, and on the exposed 
portions of the road may be seen the snow- 
sheds and snow-fences, built of plank or 
stone. 

Bllt'ord. — is a small side-track, 6 9-10 
milts further. Heavy rock-work, and 
snow-sheds and fences mark the road. 
Water for the station is elevated from 
springs down the ravine, to the southward. 

The country here presents a wild, rug- 
ged and grand appearance. The level 
ground or little valleys are covered with a 
fine coat of buttalo grass, and now and 
then clumps of stunted pine appear by 
the roadside. On either hand, near bj-, 
bigh, bold masses of granite rear their 
gray sides, piled one on the other, in wild 
confusion. Up, up, still higher, in the 
background are the rocky, pine-clad peaks 
of the Black Hills. The scene is pecu- 
liarly impressive as we near Sherman, 
especially if it chances to be one of those 
days when the clouds fioat low down the 
horizon ; then the traveler looks over the 



intervening space between him and the 
mountain range beyond, and sees naught 
but floating masses of vapor; no moun- 
tains, no valley, no forest, only these fleecy 
shapes, and a long, dark line rising above 
them, o'.ertopped by the glistening sides of 
Long's Peak. The altitude gained, we 
see on the north side of the road,a sign- 
board— "Summit of the Mountains;" 
and soon after reach 

•Sherman — eight thousand two 
hundred and forty -two feet above leve\ 
of the sea. It is named in honor of 
Gen. Sherman. On a high point just 
south of the station, a monument is 
being erected to the memory of Oakes 
and "Oliver Ames. Sherman is 549 
miles from Omaha and 1,365 from San 
Francisco, and is not noted for its size. 
The trains stop here but a few min- 
utes. The company's buildings consist of 
a comfortable station, a small repair shop, 
and a round-huuse of five stalls. A post- 
otfice, telegraph and express offices, one 
store, two hotels, two saloons, and about 
twenty houses of all sorts, constitute the 
town. 

Seventy miles to the southwest is Long's 
Peak, and 165 miles to the south is Pike's 
Peak, both plainly visible. To the north- 
west, about 100 miles distant, is Elk Moun- 
tain, another noted land-mark. The maxi- 
mum grade from Cheyenne to Sherman is 
88.176 feet per mile. The freight taken on 
at this station for the East and West is 
quite extensive, consisting of sawed lum- 
ber, telegraph poles, and wood obtained in 
the hills and ravines but a few miles dis- 
tant to the northward. On many of these 
hills, and in the canyons, are found a 
dense growth of hard spruce pine, which, 
as to quality and adaptability for being 
dressed, resembles the hemlock of the 
Eastern States. 

The winters are not as severe at Sherman 
as many think, neither is the snow-fall as 
deep as many would suppose from seeing 
the great number of snow-sheds and fences ; 
snow seldom falls more than a few inches 
in depth. It is not the depth of snow that 
causes auy inconvenience to the working 
of the road, but it is the drifting of it into 
the cuts during the heavy winds. For the 
purpose of preventing this, the sheds, 
fences and walls are erected along the 
road, the latter a few rods away from the 
banks of the cuts. The fences cause an 
eddy or current of air, which piles the 
snow along in huge drifts, keeping it, in a 



58 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



great measure, fiom the track. Snou-sbeds 
cover the deepest cuts along the road, 
where obstructions from the snow are most 
likely to occur. The cold rains and deep- 
est snows come with an east wind ; the 
worst storms come from the southwest. 

Tiie thermometer at Sherman ranges 
from 82 deg. Fahrenheit, in the summer, 
to 30 deg. below zero in winter. Springs 
of sparkling water are numerous in tlie 
surrounding country, and form many 
small streams which wind their way 
among rocks and through gorges until 
they are lost in the waters of other streams. 

At this elevated point, the tourist, if his 
"wind is good," can spend a long time 
pleasantly in wandering amid some of the 
wildest, grandest scenes to be found on the 
continent. There are places where the 
rocks rise higher, where the chasms are 
far deeper, where the surrounding ])eaks 
may bg loftier, and the torrents might- 
ier in their power, and still they do not 



possess such, power over the mind of man 
as does the wild, desolate-looking land- 
scape around Sherman. Although the 
plateau is covered with grass, and occa- 
sional shrubs and stunted trees greet the 
eye, the surrounding bleakness and deso- 
lation render this place one of awful gran- 
deur. The hand of Ilim who rules the 
universb is nowhere else more marked, and 
in no place will the tourist feel so utterly 
alone, so completely isolated from man- 
kind, and left entirely with nature, as at 
Sherman, on the Black Hills of AVyoming. 

At the first the tourist experiences much 
difhculty in breathing, the extreme light- 
ness of the air trying the lungs to their ut- 
most capacity, but becoming accustomed 
to the change, and inhaling long draughts 
of ihe pure mountain air, will greatly pre- 
fer it to a heavier atmosphere. 

Fisii AND Game — There is no spot along 
the line of road which can be compared to 
the locality around Sherman for trout fish- 




PALISADES OF THE IILMBOLDT RIVER, C. P. R.R. 



ckofutt's new ovekland tourist 



5& 



ing. The tiniest rivulets swarm with them, 
and their speckled sides glisten in every 
eddy. They weigh from one-fourth to two 
pounds, and their flesh is as hard and 
white as that of the mountain trout of 
Vermont. 

Antelope, elk, black -tailed deei, bear, 
sage hens and grouse abound in the hills 
and on the plateaus. The angler, hunter, 
or tourist should never pass Sherman with- 
out pausing Song enougli to fly a hook and 
try his rifle. Doubtless tnis point will be- 
come r. favorit'i summer resort for travelers, 
when the hotel accommodations are uch 
as to entice them to remain, as it possesses 
eminent attractions for hunting and tishing. 

From Sherman to Rawlin's, 16C miles, 
the road runs between the Black Hills and 
the Rocky Mountain range, presenting 
varied and impressive scenerj- at various 
points. 

Leaving Sherman , the road turns to the 
lett, and passes through several long snow- 
sheds and deep rock cuts to 

Dale Oreek Bridge — Dale Creek is a 
noted stream, although a small one, and 
should Iiave a noted Driage — as it has. 
When the road was being constructed over 
these hills, in 1867, the railroad company 
built a plated wooden frame-work structure 
650 feet long, from biufl' to bluft' and 126 
feet high. The bridge stood on trestles, 
interlaced with each other, and securely 
corded together and stayed by wire cables, 
secured to, and sloping from, the bridge on 
each side to substantial anchorage, down 
into the valley below, presenting a light 
and graceful appearance when viewed 
from the creek below. This old bridge 
was replaced in 1877 by one of iron, of 
similar dimensions, built in the most sub- 
stantial manner— -sec illustration, page 49. 

From the bridge, the beautiful little 
stream looks like a silver thread below us, 
the sun glistening its surface with a thou- 
sand flashes of silvery light. Anon, the 
dark walls of the canyon shade it, as 
though they were envious cr jealous of its 
beauty being rendered common property. 
A narrow, gi-een valley, half a mile above 
the bridge, is the site of the former 
Dale City, where, at ona time, were 
over 600 inhabitants. Now, a few hundred 
yards above the bridge, can be seen a soli- 
tary house— like a lone sentinel in front of 
a deserted camp. Here, too, as well as 
around Sherman, and all over the Black 
Hills, are found countless flowers of every 



variety and hue, over 300 varieties of which 
have been classiti«l. 

Virginia Dale — is situated fifteen miles 
southwest of Sherman, in Colorado, at the 
head of a deep gorge, on Dale Creek, near 
the Cache-a-la Poudre River. On the east 
side of the canyon, the wall of overhanging 
rock rises about 600 feet high, for a mile 
along the stream, giving a wild and pictur-. 
esque beauty, a sublimity and grandeur 
to the scene, rarely surpassed. This point 
is called the "Lover's Leap," though we 
never learned that any one ever leaped ofl"; 
but it the leap was made, we judge that 
the jar on aligliting in the valley, 6li0 feet 
below, must have knocked all the love, 
romance or sentiment out of those making- 
it In and around this place are numerous 
dells, grottoes, gorges, canyons, precipices, 
towering peaks and rugged recesses, 
enough to employ the tourist for some 
time in examining their beauties. 

Some "yellow-covered novelist" haa 
immortalized Virginia Dale, by calling it 
the "Robbers' Roost," though failing to 
inform us what they roosted on. But 
aside from this questionable honor, Virginia 
Dale is the most widely known and cele- 
brated of any locality in these mountains. 
There are a few good buildings around the 
place, where excursionists, who visit to 
enjoy the scenery, mountain air, and rare 
fishing and hunting, are provided for. 
See Annex, No 10. 

We now return to the railroad, cross the 
bridge, and turn away to the northward, 
through long snow-sheds and rocky cuts, 
made through red sandstone, six miles to 
Tie hiding — This station is important 
only in the lact of its being a point where 
great quantities of ties and wood are 
brought to the railroad from the hills to 
the northward. The view to the south 
is that of a very broken and rugged coun- 
try. To the west, the southern entl of 
the great Laramie Plains is spread out, 
almost at our feet, tweuty miles in width,, 
with the wondrous Rocky Mountains ris- 
ing from its western border, range upon 
range, peak overlapping peak, away up, 
up into the regions of perpetual snow, 
over one hundred miles away. 

Our train is descending rapidly, and 
more to the northward; steam is nc longer 
required — only brakes. Onward. 4 1-10 
miles, through snow-sheds and deep exca- 
vations, brings us to 

Harney — an unimportant station 
I*assing on, to the left can be seen the old 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 




CROSSING THE RANGE ON SNOW SKATES-SEE ANNEX NO. 32. 



Denver and Salt Lake staire road, the tele- 
graph markinir the line for some distance 
along the railroad. On the rit>hf hand, the 
whole valley has been fenced in for 
gazing jDurposes. 

The next station is 4 1-2 mi'es, denomi- 
Eated 

Red Bnttes— This locality derived 
its name from several ridges and peculiar 
lorm;i,tions of sandstone lying between the 
railroad and the Black Iliilson the right. 

Many of these sandstones rear their 
peaks from 500 to 1 ,000 feet above the 
plain, apparently worn and washed bj^ the 
■elements, into wild, fantastic shapes and 
grotesque figures. Rocks which, at a dis- 
tance, might be taken for casties, rise side 
by side with the wall of an immense fort ; 
■churches rear their roofs, almost shading 
the lowly cottage by their side; columns, 
monuments and pyramids are mixed up 
with themselves and each other, as though 
some malignant power had cairicd oft" 



some mighty city of the olden time, and, 
wearying of his booty, had thrown it down 
upon these plains, without much regard 
to the order in which the buildings were 
placed. 

Some few only of these curiosities, can be 
seen from the car windows, and those are 
not the largest. The tourist, by stopping 
over a dayor two at Laramie, would find 
much of' interest in this section of the 
country. 

The Laramie River rises about 50 miles 
to the soulhwest from Red Buttes, on the 
eastern slope oi the mountains — its source 
being composed of a' most innumerable 
springs. lis general course is northeast 
for 200 miles, when it empties into the 
North Platte River at Fort Laramie. 

During the building of the road, thou- 
sands of ties were floated down to Lara- 
mie, and thence hauled along the line. 

Tiie supply of timber in this region is 
as near inexhaustible as can well be im- 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



61 



agined, where forests do not recover 
from the cutting. Saw mills will And 
employmentfor many generations ere 
they can lay bare these mountains. 

six and a half miles from Red Buttes 
is a station for the military post of 
Fort Sanders, which is situated on the 
east side of the railroad, close to the 
track, and in plain view for miles. The 
buildings are principally of logs, sev- 
eral of stone and one an ordinary 
fi'ame — headquarters. This post was 
established June 23, 1866, by two com- 
panies of the Third Battalion U. S. In- 
fantry, under the command of Brevet 
Lieut.-Coi. H. M. Mizner, Captain 18th 
Infantry. Latitude 41 deg., 13 min., 4 
sec. (observation), longitude 105 deg., 
40 min. (approximatej. 

Two and a half miles farther on we 
arrive at the end of the "Mountain Di- 
vision" of the road. 

Lai-aniie City — the enterprising 
county seat of Albany county, has 
wonderfully improved within the last 
few years. It has a population of 4,000 
and IS regularlylaid out at right angles 
with the road. A stream of clear, cold 
water, which rises in a spring a few 
miles to the eastward, runs through 
the principal streets ; the buildings are 
small and mostly of wood, with a few 
substantial structures of stone. The 
spirit of improvement ia manifested 
on every hand, which has recently 
completed numerous stores, hotels, 
banks, churches, schools, dwellings, 
and other buildings, including a court 
house and jail. Trees line many of the 
streets, and present a cheerful and 
home-like appearance; in fact, most 
of the Laramie residents are here to 
stay. For many years after the com- 
pletion of the road this was a regular 
eating station for passenger trains 
from the East and West. The meals 
were served in the Thornburg House, 
at present a flrst-class hotel, in front 
of which the cars stop. The Sentmel, 
weekly, and Boomerang, daily, are 
published here. 

Rolling Mill— During the year 1874 
the railroad company erected a rolling 
mill at this place, at a cost of $127,500. 
It is situated to the right of the road, a 
short distance north of the station, 
and is in operation night and day, re- 
rolling old rails and other heavy work. 
The company's division shops are also 



located here. They are of stone obtain- 
ed from Rock Creek, 50 miles north. 
The round-house contains 20 stalls. 
The machine shop is used for general 
repairing, and is first-class in outfit. 

The railroad was completed to this 
point June 18, 1868, and for some time 
Laramie was known as the "end of the 
track," and during that time it was not 
only the place from which all freight 
and supplies for the "West were hauled 
l»y wagons, but it was the center for all 
the roughs and abominations Avhich. 
followed the building of the road. 

Directly to the east can be seen the- 
Cheyenne Pass wagon road— the old. 
emigrant route — which crosses the 
plain and river h mile above the city, 
running north along the mouuntains. 

Laramie was the first place in Amer- 
ica— or in the world even— where a fe- 
male j ury was empaneled. Their first 
case was that of a Western desperado, 
and there wasno flinchingfrom duty. 

Curious passengers will note from 
this city west, the railroad laborers^ 
section hands— are Chinamen. They 
are said to be very reliable. 

Laramie Plains— comprise a belt of 
fine grazing lands, about 25 miles wide 
by 60 long, and the remarks about the 
grazing lands elsewhere will well ap- 
ply to this section. Beef can be raised 
and fattened on these plains as cheap- 
ly as in Texas, where, as every one 
knows, they raise themselves and form 
the larger half of the population. The 
peculiar features of these grasses are 
similar to those already described. 
The plains are higher, and frost ap- 
pears earlier in the fall, but the sum- 
mer sun cures the grass before its ar- 
rival, so that the cold weather does not 
injure it. We need only mention the 
well-known fact that thousands of 
buffalo once roamed these plains, fur- 
nishing the Indians unlimited beef, to 
convince any one that the laudations 
of this as a grazing country are not ex- 
aggerated or Avild ideas, but substan- 
tiated facts, proved by experience. 

Stock-raising is now almost the 
only industry noticeable, and a great 
many thousand head of cattle, sheep 
and horses can ba seen in almost 
any direction. It is computed that 
there are at this time over 90,000 
head of cattle, 85,000 head of sheep, 
and three thousand horses and mules 



62 



CROFUTT S NEW OVEKLAJSTD TOURIST 



wilLiin 40 miles of Laramie, valued at 
$2,250,000. lu 1807, there couldn't be 
found in the same section 500 head of all 
kinds— all told. Agriculture is not profit- 
able, yet they have demonstrated that some 
of the hardy vegetables can be cultivated 
with success ou the bottom lands. 

Items ok Interest — Crystal Lake is 
about 40 miles to the westward of Lara- 
mie. Sheep Mountain — one of the peaks 
in the Rocky Mountain range — rears its 
head for 12,000 feet above the sea. Should 
the tourist desire to visit the place, he will 
find the road beyond the plains rough, 
anel the ascent toilsome. Before begin- 
ning the ascent of the mountains we enter 
one of the grandest for- sts in the countr}-. 
For ten miles we toil on through the for- 
est, which is so dense that the sunlight 
hardly penetrates, and the silence is almost 
oppressive. Bears, mountain lions, and 
the mountain sheep range here; their 
haunts, until lately, never iiaving been in- 
vaded by the pale face. Emerging from 
this gloom into the fair sunlight, we tind 
ourselves ou the highest point of the moun- 
tain, from which we can look over piles of 
fleecy clouds floating below us to other 
ranges far beyond. I'eak on peak, ridge 
on ridge, they ascend, until their snow- 
clad heights are lost in the distance, or in 
the vast blue dome above. 

Looking downward, we behold a vast 
succession ot dark ridges and grey peaks 
through the rifts in the fog-like vapor 
floating above them. The^e dark ridges 
derive their sombre hue from the fores s 
of pine, which extend for miles and miles 
in all directions. To the east we see a 
deep indentation in the mountains, which is 
Laramie Plains. Across this apparently 
narrow line, the rugged masses of the 
Black Hills rise in their grandeur, their 
black crests closing the scene. 

Turn now to the immediate landscape. 
Here is a green, grassy lawn, dotted with 
tiny flowers, of varieties such as we never 
before beheld, of ever read of, and right 
before us, in the center of this lawn, lies a 
circular lake nearly a mile wide; its clear, 
soft, cold water glistening in ihe rays of 
the sun, and reflecting, as in a mirror, every 
object ou its banks, transformmg them 
into many fantastic shapes, as the breeze 
lovingly kisses the silver surface, lifting 
it into little ripples. 

The scene is one of unsurpassed loveli- 
ness immediately around you while the 
view in the distance is grand, aye, sub- 



lime — beyond the power of words to de- 
pict. Whoever visits this place cannot 
fail of being impressed wiih its wouderous 
beauty, and his mind will take newer and 
clearer imjjressions of the power of "Him 
who hath created all things." 

The Snowy Range — the great backbone 
of the continent — is covered with snow for a 
great part of the season; the highest peaks 
ever wearing their white robes, even when 
tlie passes are covered with flowers. This 
renders them very conspicuous and easily 
discerned at a great distance. Hence the 
term " Snowy Range." 

Characteristics of the Country — In 
general descriptions we speak of Laramie 
Plains as including all the country lying 
between the western base of the Black 
Hills and the eastern base of the Rocky 
Mountains — a grand park, similar in for- 
mation to the great parks of Colorado, 
though of much less altitude. These 
" parks " are immense bodies of table 
lands, enclosed by the peaks and ridges 
of the sui rounding mountains, shelteied 
by them from the cold winds, watered by 
them from the uever-fail.ng streams which 
flow from gorges and canyons among 
these jieaks, from which the snow is never 
absent. The average elevation of the Lar- 
amie Plains or park is about 6,500 feet, 
though where Laiamie City stands it is 
more. The Black Hill ranges of the Rocky 
Mountains form the ( astern and northein 
boundary of the "Plains." This range 
extends nearly due north to Laramie Peak, 
about 150 mdes, thence west, termiualing 
in the Seminole Mountains. On the south, 
the park or plain is bordered by the Rocky 
Mountains, which here reach an elevation 
of from 10,000 to 13,000 leet above the sea 
— snow-capped always. To the altitude of 
from 8,000 to 9,000 feet, these slopes are 
covered with dense pine forests. 

In the mountains to the westward, in 
North Park, Douglass, and other creeks, 
rich mines of gold, silver, copper, and 
nearly all the known metals have l)een dis- 
covered, and in several cases, wcj'ked to ad- 
vantage. The Keystone is reported to be a 
very rich mine, the owners of which are 
taking out the ore and piling it up, to await 
the arrival of a stamp mill which will be 
put up in a few months. Undoubtedly 
there are vast regions tributary to Laramie 
equally well-stored with mineral deposits, 
that have never been prospected or visited 
by the while men. 

On the northwest from out the Elk 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



63 



Monutaius, juts the Rattlesnake Range, ex- 
tending north to the North Platte, carrying 
an elevation of nearly 8,000 feet. 

Through the western range, the North 
Platte canyons, and. on the east, the Medi- 
cine Bow River cuts through the eastern 
range, seitarating it from the foot-hills of 
the northerly range of the Black Hills. 
Through the plains flow the Big and Little 
Laramie Rivers, which, as we before stated, 
rise in the mountains which border the 
western rim of the plains. These streams 
canyon through the Black Hills north of 
Laramie Peak, antl enter the North Platte 
near Fort Laramie. 

Rock Creek rises east of Medicine Bow, 
and after tiowing north to about latitude 
42 degs. flows west and empties into the 
Medicine Bow. This river rises in Medi- 
cine Bow Mountains, and flows north to 
about the same latitude as Rock Creek, 
thence west, and canyons through the Rat- 
tlesnake range of hills, entering the North 
Platte about 150 miles nortliwest of Lara- 
mie City, in latitude 42 deg. 3min. 

By this showing it will be ob?erved that 
the immense pa k, or Laramie Plains, is 
well watered — sufflcienily f >r grazing and 
irrigation. We have been more explicit, 
have dwelt longer on the e points than we 
should have done, did we not feel a desire 
to show to the emigrant, or to those who 
are seeking good locations for grazing 
lands, that the Laramie Plains possess 
these advantages in an eminent degree. 
We have wandered far away trom the 
plains in our descriptions, but the grazing 
lands end not with the plains. The moun- 
tain sides, until the timber belt is reached, 
the valleys, blulis, and foot-hills, all pre 
sent the same feature in point of luxuriant 
crops of gras-. The valleys of the streams 
mentioned also contain thousands of acres 
of meadow land, where hay can be cut in 
abundance, and, if the season will permit, 
wheat, barley and lye might be grown to 
advantage, the soil being a black loam, 
and sufficiently moist to insure good crops 
without irrigation. 

Fish and Game — Trout — the finest in 
the world — can be found in every moun- 
tain stretim, while every variety of game 
ranges over the mountains, hills valleys 
and plains in countless numbers. 

With these general remarks, we will re- 
turn to Laramie, and proceed on our jour- 
ney. Soon after leaving the city, we cross 
the Laramie River, and eight miles brings 
us to 



Howell's — an unimportant station, 
where passenger trains seldom stop. Ii is 
then 7 G-lO miles to 

Wyoming — on the Little Laramie 
River. During the building of the road 
large quantities of ties were received at 
this point, which were cut at the head of 
the river and floated down the stream in 
high water. The country is a liroad prai- 
rie. At tlie station we crossed Little Lara- 
mie, a small stream which rises in the 
mountains to the westward and empties 
into Laramie River. To the next sta- 
tion — 

Huttoii's— it is 6.9 miles, and 6.6 
more to 

Cooper Lake -Near the station, to 
the westward, lies a beautiful sheet of wa- 
ter, about two mihs long by half-a-mile 
wide, for which the station is named. 

liOOkont — a station with an altitude 
of 7,109 feet — is5 4-'0 miles from Cooper 
Lake. AYe are now entering the rolling 
prairie country, where, for 25 miles either 
way along the road, vast herds of elk, 
deer and antelope are found at ditfereut 
seasons of the year — the elk being mostly 
found in the winter, when the snow drives 
them from the mountains. ^Ve also begin 
to find o'^casional bunches of sage-brusii, 
which tell us that we have entered the 
country where this more useful than orna- 
mental shrub abounds. (Occasionally we 
pass through cuts and over low fills, by 
snow^-feuces, and through snow-sheds, the 
countrj'' growing rougher as we pass along 
5.7 miles to 

Harper's — from which it is 6.3 
miles to 

Miser Station— Sage-brush is the 
rule. Just before reaching the station, 
wo pass through a very deep cut— one 
of the deepest on the road — where a iit- 
t/le spur of the bluffs rises abruptly 
from the plains, right in the Avay of the 
road. Just before reaching the next 
station, we cross Rock Creek, towards 
the head of which is good trout fish- 
ing. It is 5 1-10 miles to 

Koek Creek— a small eating sta- 
tion, on a small creek of the same name. 
Trains from the east sto]^ for supper, 
from the west for breakfast, 30 minutes 



The English language iswouderful for its apt- 
ness of expression. When a number of men and 
women get together and look at each other from 
the sides of a room, that's called a sociable. When 
a hungry crowd calls upon a poor station keeper 
and eats him out of house and home, that's called 
a donation parly. 



64 



CKOFUTT'S XEW OVERLAXD TOURIST 



are allowed foi* that purpose; and, it 
is said, the meals served are much 
improved on those of former years. 
All travelers appreciate good fare. 

Leaving the station, our course now lies 
to the eastward ; the train winds around 
the spurs of the hkiffs, which seem to har 
otir way by inteilocking with each other, 
on Ihrotigh a rough, rolling country, again 
turning to the westward, over briuges and 
fills, through cuts and snow-sheds, for 7 
1-10 miles to 

"Wilcox — an unimportant station, and 
we continue crossing creeks and ravines 
for 8 4-10 miles more, of difficult engineer- 
ing and middling heavy road-work, and 
arrive at 

i4.nror» — formerly Como, a small 
place. Soon after passing the station wc 
come to Como Lake, a bcautitul little 
sheet of water, lyiug to the right of the 
road, it is about one mile long and half- 
a-mile wide, and contains a peculiar fish, 
a " fish witii legs." These fish animals 
possess gills something hke a cat-fish; are 
amphibious, being often found crawling 
clumsily around on land, miles from the 
lake. Quite a variety of peculiar fossd 
shells are found around the lake that are 
gathered in summer by persons who ofler 
them tor sale to the touritts- 

Medicine Bow Rivek — is crossed a ftw 
miles after leaving Como. It rs* in the 
Medicine Bow Mountains, as before stated, 
and empties its waters into the North 
Platte River. 

This river was long a noted resort for 
Indians, and several treaties have been 
made on its banks between the ^^ noble red 
men " and their pale-faced '" brothers." 
The valley of the river, above the railroad, 
for thirty miles or more, is broad, fine bot- 
tom-laud, until it reaches the base of the 
mountain From thence to its source the 
cotirse of the river is through immense 
forests of pine, wdi'ch present unrivaled 
facilities for lumbering. Fish are found 
in great quantities in the stream, and the 
various kintls of game which abound in 
this country are found in the mountains 
where the river has its source. Soon after 
crossing tlie river, and 7 1-10 miles from 
Como, we come to 

Medicine Bow— containing several 
stores, and saloons, freight house, passen- 
ger station, and a five-stall round-house. 

Leaving this station, the road is laid 
over a smootn, level plain, for 7.5 
miles, when it enters a rough, hilly, 



sage-bruali coimtry, and stops at 

JVilew Junction— from which the 
train, winding arotind through deep 
cuts and long snow-sheds, for 3 2-10 
miles further, to 

Carbon— Here was discovered the 
first coal on the Union Pacific Ry. Two 
veins have been apened, averaging 
abo tit ten feet. Thiscoalis used prin- 
cipally by theRy. Co, for their locomo- 
tives—the quality not being so good 
for domestic use as that niined further 
west, at Rock Springs and Evanston. 

The coal is raised from the mine and 
dumped into the fiat-cars, while standing 
on the track — the shaft of the mine being 
between the main and side track, close to 
the station; a stationary engine fui'nish- 
ing the hoisting power. Another shaft is 
to the south of the town, a short distance, 
reached by a raillrack. 

Carbon contains a population of about 
800, aud is the county seat of Carbon coun- 
t}', which contains a population of about 
:j,000 — most of whom are engaged in stock- 
raising. 

l!$ini|)SOn — a small, unimportant side- 
track, is reached r..S miles fromCarbon, 
after passing through a succession of cuts, 
many of which are covered w.th suow- 
sheds. Passenger cars do not stop. The 
road now curves around, and runs almost 
due west for 50 miles. To the next sta- 
tion it is 4.5 10 miles. 

Percy — The station was named for 
Percy T. Brown, an engineer who was 
killed by the Indians, while employed sur- 
veying the line. 

During the construction of the road, 
this was an important station. Ties, tele- 
graph poles, wood and bridge timber, were 
Tanded at this point in immense quantities. 

They were obtained at Elk Mountain, 
seven miles to the south. The old stage 
road winds around the base of the moun- 
tain, between that and the railroad. Near 
the loot of the mountain, old Fort Halleck 
and one of the most important stations of 
the Overland Stage Company, were located ; 
both are now abandoned. 

Elk Mount.\in — is a noted, landmark, 
and quite a curiosity in its way. It rises 
to a great height, its top being covered 
with snow a "great portion of the year, 
and at any time snow can be found in 
places on the summit. It has the appear- 
ance of being an isolated peak, though, 
really, it is the extreme northern spur of 
the Medicine Bow Mountains. It is, how- 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



65 




SEALS AND SEA LIONS AT FARALLOXES ISLANDS, BELOW SAN FRANCISCO. 



ever, surrounded by rf)lling prairie laud, 
and seems to rise boldly Irom it, rough, 
rugged and alone. On the west side, the 
summit is easily reached by a good road, 
made by the lumbermen. The mountain 
is nearlj' round, about six miles in diame- 
ter at its base. Its sides are covered with 
dense forests of pine, aspen and hemlock. 
It is worthy of note, that this is the only 
point where the Jatter species of timbei- 
is found along the line of the road. It 
grows in profusion with the spruce in the 
gorges, m ar the summit. 

To the soulh is a fine valley, about 15 
miles w ide and 20 miles long. Pass Creek, 
which rises in the Medicine Bow Moun- 
tains, runs through this valley on its 
■way to tlie North Platt3 River. Large 
5 



quantities of hay are cut in the bottom 
lands along the creek. This stream, like 
all others which rise in this range, is full 
of fine trout and other fish. Antelope 
abound on the plain, with elk, deer, bears 
and mountain sheep, while mountain lions 
find their homes in the dark ravines and 
gloomy gorges of the mountain. 

l>aiia — is an unimportant station 6 
1-10 miles west of Percy. From Percy to 
the North Platte River, 29 miles, the road 
is built down the vallej^ of an alkali ravine. 
Sage-brush and stagnant pools of alkali 
water are the only objects that greet the 
eye — perhaps an unpleasant greeting, 

l^<l9«on — for many years known as 
St. Mary's — is 7 5-10 miles from Dana. 
Soon after leaving the station, our 



C6 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



train enters the ravine, -where the bluffs as- 
sume more formidable features; in fact, 
the ravine becomes a gorge, tlie rugged 
spurs shooting out as though they would 
reach the opposite wall, and bar out farther 
progress. The first one of these spurs does 
indeed bar our way. or did until a tunuel 
was completed. Before this tunnel was 
finished, the comj^anj' laid the road around 
the point of the spur on a temporary track. 
Emerging from the tunnel, the train rushes 
down the gorge, the wall now rising close 
abrupt and high, on either hand, and 7 8-10 
miles from St. Mary's we arrive at and 
pass 

Woleott's — an unimportant station. 
Down, down we go— the rough spurs 
point out from either wall of tlie canyon, 
an indenture in one bank marking a pro- 
jection on the other. \Vhi!e looking on 
this scene, one cannot lielp fancying that 
one time this chasm was not; that some 
fearful convulsion of nature rent the 
mighty rocks in twain, leaving these rag- 
ged walls and fetid pools to attest the fact. 
Suddenly we whirl out of the mouth of 
this chasm — out on the level lands of the 
North Platte River — cross a substantial 
wooden bridge, and slop at 

Fort Fred. Steele— 5 9-10 miles 
west of Wolcot's ; elevation, 6,840 feet. 

This fort was established June 30lh, 
18G8, by four companies of the 3Jth In- 
fantry, under commaud of Brevet Col. li. 
I. Dodge, Major 30th Infantry. When the 
posts in the Powder River country were 
abandoned, the great bulk of the military 
stores were hauled to this place and stored 
for future use. 

About two miles west of Fort Steele 
formerly stood 

Benton City — now entirely abandoned. 
The road was completed to this point the 
last of July, 1808. At that time a large 
amount of freight for M<intana, Idalio, 
Utah, and the western country was re- 
shipped in wagons at this poiut, and dur- 
ing August and September the place pre- 
sented a lively aspect, wliich contiimed 
until the road was finished to Bryan, the 
first of October. Benton at that time Avas 
composed of canvas tents ; about 3,000 peo- 
ple of all kinds made the population ; a 
Larder set it would be impossible to find- 
roughs, thieves, petty gamblers (the same 
thing), .fast women, and the usual accom- 
paniments of the railroad towns, flourished 
here in profusion. There were high old 
times in Benton then, but as the road 



.stretched away to the westward, the people 
"packed up their tents and stole noiselessly 
away," leaving only a few old chimneys 
and post-holes to mark the spot of the once 
nourishing town. Whiskey was the prin- 
cipal drink of the citizens, it being the 
most conveaient, as all the water used had 
to be hauled from the Platte River, two 
miles distant, at an expense of one dollar 
per barrel, or ten cents per bucket-full. 

At Benton, the blufis which mark the 
entrance to the canyon of the Platte near 
Fort Steele, are plainly visilile and will 
continue in sight until we near Rawlins. 
They are of gray sandstone, worn, marked 
by the wateis or by the elements, far up 
their perpendicular sides. They are on the 
opposite side of the river, the banks on the 
west side being comparativelj' low. 

At this point the river makes a bend, and 
for several miles we seem to be running 
down the river, parallel with it, though 
really drawing away fiom the stream. 

To the south is a long, high ridge of 
grey granite, called the " Hog Back." It 
is about lour miles away from the road, 
and runs parallel with it for about 15 
miles, terminating in the highlands of 
liavN lins Springs. It is very narrow at the 
base, not exceeding half-a-mile in width, 
yet it rises from 1,000 to 3,000 feet high. 
The ridge is so sharf) that cattle cannot be 
driven across it, and in many ])laces it is 
all but impracticable for a man to attempt to 
walk along its summit. AVhtre this ridge 
reaches the river bank, about two and a 
half miles above the bridge, the walls are 
perpendicular and very high, from 1,000 to 
1,500 feet. A corre-pouding bluff on the 
opposite side sho-\\ s thai the river has cut a 
channel through this ridge, ■\\hich at one 
time barred the progress of the waters. 

On the south side of the ridge is a very 
pretty little valley, through which flows a 
small creek into the Platte. It furnishes 
fine grazing and is in marked contrast to 
the surrounding country. 

Many years ago this green and peaceful 
looking vale was the scene of a feaiful bat- 
tle between the Sioux and their inveterate 
enemies, the Utes. The Sioux were encamped 
in the valley, and were surprised by the 
Utts, who stole on them in the grey light 
of the morning, and attacked them furi- 
ously. Thougli taken by surprise, the 
Sioux fought bravely, but were surrounded 
and overpowered. When tryiug to escape, 
they essayed to cross the " Hog Back," 
but every one who raised his head above 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



67 



the crest was picked otY instautly. A por- 
tion of the band escaped iu auollier direc- 
tion, leaving their dead comrades on tlie 
field. The Sioux were so badly whipped 
that from that time forward they have had 
little use for the Utes. 

North Platte River — We gave a 
short description of this river from where 
we first crossed it near North Platte City, 
to Fort Steele, so we will now trace it from 
this station to its source. 

From Fort Steele to the head waters of 
the Platte is about 150 to 200 miles. It 
rises in the mountains of the Nortli Park, 
its waters being supi)lied by many tributa- 
ries, which, at present, are mostly nameless. 
The course of the river, from its source to 
this po.nt, is nearly due north. 

About twenty-five miles above the fort, 
is the Platte Ferry, on the old overhmd 
stage road. 

Good bottom lands are found along the 
stream at intervals. About 100 miles fui- 
ther up, the triiAitaries of the liver begin 
toempty their waters into the main st'eam, 
and the timber land commences. 

Douglas Creek and French Creek aie 
tributaries of the Plalte, and run through 
heavy timbered valleys. Gold nunes and 
gulch diggings were 
discovered here, but not 
prospected to any great 
extent. On the west side 
of the river, ]MoDument 
and Big creeks empty 
their waters into the 
Platte, nearly opposite 
the creeks first named. 

Big Creek rises in a 
beautiful lake, about 
three miles long by half 
a mile wide. A half- 
mile above this l.es 
another lake, but little 
smaller. This ground 
is disputed territory be- 
tween the Sioux and 
Utes, rendering it very 
unsafe for small parties. 

Eight miles from 
Douglas Creek coal is 
found in abundance, 
and farther on, fine- 
looking quartz veins 
crop out on the hillside. 
Near here are sulphur 
springs, seven in num- 
ber, and very hot; 
while, along side of 



them rises a clear, .sparkl'ng spring of 
ice-cold water, and we op ne that the 
time is not far distant when these springs 
will be taken up, a narroio gauge railroad 
laid down, hotels built, and one of the 
finest " watering places " in the world 
opened to the i)ublic. 

Fish of many kinds, and beavers, are 
abundant in the streams; the beavers 
erecting dams often six feet high. The 
mountains and fore&ts are full of game, and 
in them and the open valleys can be found 
elk, deer, antelope, bears, mountain sheep 
and lions and, occasionally, the bison. or 
mountain buflalo 

The forests are dense and large in extent; 
from which, during the building uf the 
road, large quantities of ties were cut and 
floated down the river to Fort Steele. The 
valleys are fertile and large, and all in all, 
it is a grand, w ild country, where the tour- 
ist could enjoy life to his heart's content, 
in hunting, ^^\\mg,i\n(\Jighting the Indians. 

(jrreniiville — is a small side-track 
station eight miles west of Fort Steele, and 
it is seven miles further to 

Ravelins— (usually called Bawling 
Sj)rings). This place contains a population 
of about 800. The Bailroad Company 




SNOW GALLKRIES. SIERRA NEVADA MOUNTAINS. 



68 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



have built here a fine hotel, a round-house 
of 20 stalls, and machine-shops for division 
repairs. The Railroad Company employ 
IbO men. 

The surrounding country is rough and 
broken, covered with sage-brush and 
flecked witli alkali. Close above the town 
a fine sulphur spring rises from under the 
bed of blue limcbtone, and other springs 
arise from the surface of a narrow, wet 
ravine, which extends about a mile above 
the town. The bed of the ravine, as far as 
the water extends, is white with alkali, 
where the pools of stagnant- water do not 
cover it. 

From 30 to 40 miles to the northeast of 
this station, are located the Ferris and 
Seminole mining districts. The ore is sil- 
ver, and said by some people to be 
rich. Several mills Avere erected some 
years ago, but the ore proved refrac- 
tory and little has been done. Stages 
leave Rawlins tri-weekly for Meeker 
— 150 miles distant. 

Rawlins is the county seat of Carbon 
county, and was named in honor of Gen'l 
J. A. Rawlins. 'J he principal business in 
which the citizens are engaged is stock 
raising and mining. 

Two miles north of the station a paint 
mine has been discovered, whicli prospects 
now to be very valuable. It is said to be 
fire-and-water proof Two mills have been 
erected at the station for grinding the paint, 
Avitli a daily capacity of tliree and ten tons 
resjiectively. The Union Pacific Railroad 
Company are using it to paint their cars. 

Leaving Rawlins, we follow up the nar- 
row ravine spoken of, through a natural 
pass about 300 feet wide, which leads be- 
tween two nearly perpendicular bluffs over 
200 feet in height, composed of yellowish 
gray quartzose sandstone, overlaid with 
carboniferous limestone. This bluft' ap- 
pears to have extended across the ravine 
sometime in the past. Perhaps a large 
lake Avas imprisoned above, Avhich kindly 
burst these huge walls, and left a natural 
route for the railroad. 

Be^'ond the pass we follow up this dry 
lake bed 6 5-10 miles through a sage-brush 
and alkali country to 

Solon— a small station where the 
passenger trains do not stop, and 6 6-10 
miles further arrive at 

(Separation — This station derives its 
name from the fact that at this place the 
various parties of surveyors avIio liad been 
together or near each other for the last 



hundred miles, separated to run different 
lines to the westward ; elevation, G,!J00 feet. 
We are rapidly rising, and 15 miles fur- 
ther will be on the summit of the Rocky 
Mountains. 

Artesian wells are quite numerous along 
the line, most of them having been finished 
within the past five years. They are from 
320 teet to 1,145 feet in deptti, flowing 
from 400 to 1,U00 gallons an hour, in one 
place 26 feet ab. jve the surface. By ])uniping, 
the-e AA'ells Avill supply from 650 to 2,400 
gallons of Avater per hour. The one at this 
station is 1,103 feet deep, in which the 
water stands 10 feet from the surface, and 
by pumping yields 2,000 gallons per hour. 

l^^illmore — is another station Avhere 
the cars do not stop. It is 8 3-10 miles 
west from Separation, and six miles 
from 

Creston — Sage-brush and alkali beds 
are the rule noAV, and have be.nforthe 
last 25 miles, and A\'ill be for the next 100 
miles. We are now near the summit of 
the great " back-bone " of the continent — 
the "Rocky Mountains — just 7,030 feet 
aboA'e the level of the sea. 
Tavo and a half miles Avest of this point 
a sign-board has been erected on the 
right of the road, bearing the words : 

"CONTINENTAL DIVIDE," 
and marks the summit 7,100 feet aboA'c the 
IcA-el of the sea. This point is about 185 
miles from Sherman, 737 from Omaha, and 
from San Francisco, 1,177. 

On this wild spot, surrounded by few 
evidences of vegetation — and those of the 
most primitive form— this little sign marks 
the center of the grandest range of moun- 
tains on the continent. Amid what seems 
to have been the wreck of mountains, we 
stand and gaze away in the vast distance 
at the receding lines of hill, valley and 
mountain peaks, which we have passed in 
our journey. We i eel the cool mountain 
breeze on our cheeks, but it brings no aroma 
of life and vegetation with its cooling cur- 
rent. W^e feel and know that the same 
sky which hangs so AA-arm and blue over 
the smiling A'allej'S, looks down upon us 
now — l)ut how changed the aspect; t! in, 
gray and cold it appears, and so ch ar that 
we almost expect to see the stars looking 
down through the glistening sunbeams. 
We do not seem to be on the mountain 
height, for the expanse seems but a once 
level plain, now arched and broken into 
ugly, repulsive holloAvs and desolate knobs. 

Here, if a spring should rise from this 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



69 




FounJato.. ..fTe...ple, 



VIEW OF SALT LAKE CITY, LOOKING SOUTHWEST. 



sage-brush knoll, its waters would divide, 
and the different portions eventually min- 
gl'3 with the two oceans which wash the 
opposite sides of the continent. We enter 
the cars and pass on, the track seeming to 
he lost but a short distance in our front. 
The view from the rear of the car is the 
same. The track seems to be warped up 
and doubled out of sight. The curvature 
of this backbone gives' the track a similar 
appearance to that witnessed at Sherman. 
Although much higher at Sherman, still 



To be "dei.d broke."' or out of money, is 
cap," " on the bed rock," etc. 



in the 



this is the continental divide, but the low, 
broad pass brings us 1,212 feet below that 
place. To the north, the Seminole moun- 
ta'ns rear their rugged heights, and farther 
on, and more to the westward, can be seen 
the long lines and gray peaks of the 
Sweetwater Range. Still farther to the 
west and north, the Wind River Moun- 
tains close the scene in the dim distance, 
their summits robed in snow. Away to 
the south can be seen the hills which form 
the southern boundary of tlie pass, near 



'• Shoot i net his moiuL off," for one to use de- 
fia t or foul language. 



70 



cuofutt's new overland tourist 



by where the Bridger Pass Station is situ- 
ated on the old oveihind st-ige road. 

With a last h)(jk at this rugged, barren, 
desolate region, we speed away over the 
crest, and sTiall have down grade for the 
next 108 miles, descending in that distance 
1,110 iVet. 

LiHtliani — is readied 7.3 miles west, 
but our train does not stop; and 7 6-10 
miles more brings to 

Wasli-a-kie — named afier an old 

; chief of the Shoshone Indians, who 
has always been friendly with the 

whites. At this place is another 

] artesian well, 638 feet deep, which, at 
15 feet above the surface, flows 80tl 

I gallons of pure water per hour. 

Red. I>esert — is 6-10 miles from 
Wiish-a-kie. The country around here is 
called the Red Desert, from the color of the 
barren soil. It is a liuge basin, its waters 
having no outlet. Several alkali lakes are 
found in it, but nothing lives on its surface. 
The soil is bad between Table Rock and 
Creston, the extreme points of the desert, 
38 miles apart. It is composed of the de- 
composition of shale and calcareous clays, 
and is deep red, sliowing the presence of 
an hydrous sesquioxide of iron. The 
soutliern margin of the basin is mainly 
sand, which is lifted up by every passing 
breeze to fall in drifts and shifting 
mounds. 

Tipton — a side-lrack, where our train 
does not f-top, is (il-lO miles west of Red 
Deseit, and 61-10 miles further, the train 
wiLl stop at 

Talile Rock. — This station is on the 
outer edge of the desert, which has an ele- 
vation of 6,890 feet. Off to the left can 
be seen a long line of bluffs, rising from 
50 to 500 feet above the surrounding coun- 
try. They are of red sandstone, which is 
mainly com])osed of freshwater shells, 
worn, cut, and fluted by the action of tin; 
elements. Oue of these bluffs, wdiich 
gives its name to the station, is level on 
the top, which rises about 500 feet above 
the road, and extends for several miles. 
Heavy cuts and tills are ibund here, show- 
ing that the road is passing through the 
rim of the desert. After passing through 
this rim, and by the sidetrack, called 

Monell — we go on, through a rough 
and broken cnuntry for ten miles, when 
we aiTive at a station called 

Bittei* Creek— At this place the 
company have a ten-stall round-house, 
and a machine shop, for repairs. 



As we leave this station, we begin the 
descent of the celebrated Bitter Creek, 
the valley of which we shall follow to 
Green River, about 60 miles west. The 
valley is narrow, the bluffs coming near 
the creek on either side. The stream ia 
small and so strongly impregnated with 
alkali as to be almost useless for man or 
beast. The banks and bottoms are very 
treacherous in places, miring any cattle 
which attempt to reach its fetid waters. 
This section was always a terror to travel- 
ers, emigrants and freighters, for nothing 
in the line of vegetation will grow, ex- 
cepting grease-wood and sage-bru^h. The 
freighter, especially, who had safely navi- 
gated this section, would "ring his pop- 
per " and claim that he was a "tough cuss 
on wheels, from Bi'ter Creek with a per- 
ftct education." 

From the source to the mouth of this 
stream, every indication points to the fact 
that deposits of oil underlie the surface. 
Coal veins — -valuable ones— -have been 
found, and an oil-l)earing shale underlies a 
large portion of the valley. The old over- 
laud stage and emigrant road follows this 
valley from its source to Green River. 
From the bluffs, spurs reach out as though 
they would like to meet their jagged 
friends on the opposite bluffs: and around 
the rough points the cars roll merrily on 
down, down to the Green. 

Black Bntles — is 9 1-10 miles down 
the creek. 

Hallvllle — an unimportant station to 
the tourist, is 5.1 miles from the But'es, 
and 6 2-10 miles to 

Point of Rocks— Here an artesian 
well, 1,015 feet in depth, supplies an abun- 
dance of pure water. 

Extensive coal mines near this station 
are being worked l)y the Wyoming Coal 
Company, who ship as high as lUO car- 
loads daily. In oue bluff, at a depth of 80 
feet, five veins of coal have been opened — 
one upon the other — which are respectively 
one, tliree, four, five, and six and a half feet 
in tliickuess. On the bluff, just above the 
coal, is a seam of oyster-shells six inches in 
thickness, which Ilayden says "is an ex- 
tinct and uudescribcd species, about the 
size of our common edible one." 

The sandstone bluffs, at points along the 
road, are worn by the action of the elements 
into curious, fantastic shapes, some of 
which have been named " Caves of the 
Sand," " Hermit's Grotto," "Water-washed 
Caves of the Fairies," "Sanko's Bower," 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



71 



&c. Prof. Hayden, iu his geological ex- 
amination of this section of , the creek, re- 
ported finding "preser^'ed in the rocks the 
greatest abundance of deciduous leaves of 
the poplar, ash, elm and maple." He says 
further: "Among the plants found is a 
specimen of fau-pahn, which, at the tin)e it 
grew here, displayed a leaf of enormous 
dimensions, sometimes having a spread of 
ten or twelve feet. Tliese gigantic palms 
seem to have formed a conspicuous feature 
among the trees of these ancient forests." 
Several sulphur and iron springs are lo- 
cated near, but little attention has been di- 
rected to their special virtues. 

Thayer — a small side-track, .5 3-10 
miles further west, is passed without stop- 
ping, and (i 2-10 miles more we ai'rive at 

Salt "%Vells— This, until coal was dis- 
covered in quantities on the creek, Avas a 
wood station. The wood was obtained 
from five to ten miles south, in the gulches, 
where also could be found game iu abund- 
ance — elk, deer, bears, etc. 



Baxter — is G 7-10 miles from the 
Wells, and 6 8-10 from 

Rock JSpriiigs — This station was 
named alter a saline spring of water which 
bpils up out of the blutls, looking very clear 
and nice, but it is very deceiving — an un- 
common thing in this truthful world. 

An artesian well has been sunk at this 
station, 1,145 I'ect deep. The water tlows to 
the surhice at the rate of 900 gallons per 
hour, and at 2C> feet above the surface, 
flows 571 gallons per hour. The popu- 
lation of this ])lace is 500, mostly engage d 
in mining and stock raising. Near heie 
are more rich coal mines. 

From this point to Green River, the 
scenery becomes more grand and im- 
pressive, the blufts rising higher and the 
gorge narrowing, until the hills seem to 
hang over the narrow valley with their 
frown ing bai tlements. Through this gorge 
we rattle on nine miles to 

WilKiiiw — a small station six miles 
from the end Laramie Division. 




STARVATION CAMP, DONNER LAKE — SEE ANNEX NO. 33. 



72 



('uofutt's new oveeland TourasT 



Green River— is the county seat of 

Sweetwater couuiy, 845 miles west of 

Omaha, the end of the Laramie and the 

commencement of the AVestern Division 

|of the Union Pacific Railway. 

The place is a regular eating station, 
where passenger trains stop 'SO minutes— 
tlinse from the East for breakfast, those 
from the West tor supper. jNIuch taste is 
di splayed at this station in decorating the 
dining room and office with mountain cu- 
riosities, mineral specimens, moss -agate 
and horns of game. 

The city has a good court-house— costing 
$35,000 ; several dry goods, grocery, cloth- 
ing and other stores; two hotels, and about 
400 population ; also, a daily newspaper, 
the Evening Fress. The Railroad Com- 
jiany has a round-house of 15 stalls, and 
machine shops and repair shops, located 
liere, which in the early years of the road, 
ware at Bryan. 



It is claimed that the surrounding coun- 
try is rich in mines, but one thing is cer- 
tain — it is rich in cattle; it has cattle on 
more than a " thousand hills." 

The bluffs near this station present a 
peculiar formation called, by Prof. Hay- 
den, the " Green River Shales." For a 
beautiful illustration of the bluffs, the sta- 
tion and the bridge, see Anjstex No. 16. 

The walls of these bluffs rise perpendic- 
ularly for hundreds of feet, are of a grayish 
buff color, and are composed of layers, ap- 
parently sedimentary deposits of all thick- 
nesses, from that of a knife-blade to two 
feet. At the ba e of the bluff tlie layers 
are thin and composed of arenaceous clay, 
with laminated sandstone, mud markings 
and other indications of shallow water or 
mud fiats ; color for 100 feet, ashen brown ; 
next above are lighter colored layers, al- 
ternate with 2;reenish layers, and fine 




INTERIOR VIEW OF SXOW^ SHEDS OX THE SIERRA NEVADA MOUNTAINS. 



a:n^d tacific coast guide. 



73 




CROSSING IRL'CKEE RIVER, C. V. R. R. 



W'liite sand. Passing up, chiy and lime 
predominate, tlieu come layers of bould- 
ers, pebbles, and small nodules. 

There are also seams of very fine black 
limestone, saturated with petroleum. Near 
the summit, under the shallow, calcareous 
sandstone, there are over fifty feet of shales 
that contain more or less of oily material. 
The hills all around are capped with a 
deep, rustj' yellow s-mdstone, which pi'c- 
sentsthe peculiar ca.stellated forms which, 
Avith the banded appeai'ance, have given 
so much celebrity to the scenery about 
this station. 

The point where our photog-rapher 
stood to take the picture, was About one- 
half mile below the bridge and immedi- 
ately opposite the mouth of _ the noted 
Bitter Creek, down which, in years past, 
rolled the Avagous of the pioneer -emigrants 
of the fai' West, on their Aveary way 
seeking new El Dorarioes towards "the set- 
ting sun. 



Old Toavx— a short distance Irom the 
station io the soutliward is the site of the 
old deserted citA' of Gi\en liiver, near the 
old emigrant crossing, and thereby hangs 
a tale. This city was laid out in- July. 
1868, and the September following con- 
tained 2,000 inhabitants, and many sub- 
stantial wood and adobe building's, and 
presented a permanent appearance. At 
that time it Avas thought by the citizers 
that the Railroad Company would certainly 
erect tlieii division buildings near the town, 
and it Avouid become an important station 
in consequence. But the Railroad Com- 
pany ojiposed the Town Company, bridged 
the river, and as the road stretched away 
to the Ave tAvard, the tOAvn declined as rap- 
idly as it arose, the people moving on to 
Bryan, at which place the Railroad Com- 
pany located their city — and sold lots. 

Geographical indications fro}7i the first 
pointed to the fact that the Jlailroad Com- 
pany must CA-entually select tliis place in 



74 



CROFUTT S >E\V' OVEKLAXD TOUUIST 



preference to Bryan, which is now an ac- 
complished fact. 

Twenty Yeaks Ago aa important 
trading post was 1 )cated near this station 
just below, on tlie opposite side of the 
river. In early days, I he 3Iormous had a 
ferryr here, and a; the river was seldom 
fordable — except late in the fall— they 
reaped a rich harvest of from $5 to i|30 a 
team for crossing them over the river, ac- 
cording as the owners were found aljle to 
pay. Those times were comparatively 
only yesterday, and we might say with the 
juggler ^' Presto ! " and we have the " iron 
horse," and the long trains of magnificent 
palace cars, crossing the substantial rail- 
road bridge, conveying their hundreds of 
passengers daily — passengers from every 
laud and clime — and whirling them across 
the continent from ocean t ) ocean, on 
schedule time. Do these passengers, while 
partaking of a princely meal, lying at ease 
sipping their wine, {ov po s bly ice water,) 
and smoking quietly their cigar, ever 
think of the hardy pioneers who toiled 
along on foot and alone, man}- times over 
semji montlis traveling the ?ame distance 
that can now bemads iwfici days ? Thes 
pioneers suffered ever}/ kind of hardship, 
many even unto death, and those tiiat re- 
main are fast ]iassing away. Yet, the 
fruits of their adventurous and daring in- 
trepidity can be seen on every hand. 

Green Rivek — Tliis stream rises in 
the northwest portion of the Wind River 
Mountains, at the base of Fremont's i^cak. 
The source of the river is found in innu- 
merable little streams, about 200 miles 
fr.)m the railroad crossing. About 150 
miles below tlie sta'ion the river empties 
into the Cok)rado River. The name 
"Green River" implies the color of the 
water, but one would hardly expect to be- 
hold a large, rapid river, whose wa; rs 
possess so deep a hue. The river, for some 
distance up th: stream, commencing about 
fifty miles above th ^ station, runs through 
a soil composed of decomposed rock, 
slate, etc , which is ven, green, and easily 
washed and worn away, whicli accounts 
for the color of the water. At all seasons 
of the year the water is very good — the 
best, by far, of any found in this part of 
the country. The tributaries abound in 
trout of line llavor, ;,nd the main 
river is well stocked with the tinny tribe. 
Game of all kinds abound along the river 
and in the atljacent mountains. 

Fontenelle Creek comes into Green River 



40 miles north, and is spccui li/ noted for 
game, trout, etc. 

The lower stream presents a very marked 
feature, aside from the high bluHs of worn 
sandstone be.-ides stdimentary deposits. 
These features are strongly marked, above 
the bridge, for several miles. 

From Green River station, the first ex- 
ploring expedition of INlaj. Powell started 
on the 24th < f May, 1S09. The party con- 
sisted of about a doz _".7 well-armed, intrepid 
men, mostly Westenx luinters. They had 
four well-built boa's,, v.'Uh whioh to explore 
the mysterious sud terrible canyons of 
Green River and the Colorado. These 
gorges Avere conijuralively unknown, the 
abrupt mouutaiji walls having turned the 
travel far from tlieir sterile shores. Sci- 
ence and comm !rce demanded a solution 
of the (luestion: ' Can tlie upper Colorado 
be navigated?" and Mmj. Powell under- 
took to solve the prob'em. 

The party en'ountered hardships, dis- 
covered beautilUi scenery, and in their re- 
port have thrown much "light on the mys- 
teries of this herc'iofore not much traveled 
country. The result of the expedition af- 
forded the Major tne ma'erials for a course 
oflectures, and demonstrated the impor- 
tant fact that the Colorado canyon is not 
navigable. 

We hear that the Major has, since the 
al)(n-e, made an expedition to the river, but 
are not informed as to tlie results. 

A Avagon road leads north, up the east 
side of the river, over which a stage runs 
regularly to the 

SwEETWATEii CouNTKY — The ]irincipal 
cities are South Pass, Atlantic and Hamil- 
ton. They are situated four miles apart. 
The principal occupation of the citizens is 
quartz gold mining. Many of the mines 
ae said to be very rich, but for some re a- 
sou very unprofitable to w( rk. The prin- 
cipal mines are on Swectw iter River, a trib- 
utary of Wind River, which passes through 
very rich mineral and agricultural coun- 
try- 
Wind River is a tributary of the Big 
Horn River, which empties into the Yel- 
lowstone. The streams abound in fish, in- 
cluding trout of excellent llavor. The 
valleys and mountains furnish game in 
abundance, including deer, elk, antelope, 
mountain sheep, buftalo, cinnamon, brown, 
blac'5 and grizzly bears. 

Indian difficulties have retarded min- 
ing, agricultural, and business operations 
very much in the past. 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



75 




BURNING ROCK CUI,NEAR GREEN RIVER. 



to Bryan, Septem- 
ber, 1808, and large 
amounts of freight 
was deli VI red here to 
be re-shipped to the 
westward. From this 
station to the north- 
ward, it is 80 miles 
to the Pacific Springs 
on the old " California 
trail," and 90 miles 
to Sweetwater. 

At one time stages 
left this station for the 
Sweetwater country, 
but they have been 
transferred to Green 
IJiver station. Freight 
for the Government 
posts, and country to- 
Ihe northward, Atlan- 
tic City, South Pass, 
ccc, is hauled from 
this station by wagon 
teams as of old. 

Bryan, during its 
early days, was quite 
lively, and troubled 
with the usual number 



Leaving the station, 
we cross Green River 
on a fine bridge, the 
cars passing along 
through heavy cuts, 
almost over the river 
in places, affording a 
line view of the frown- 
ing clifts on the east 
side of the river. 
Twenty miles to the 
northwest a large bar- 
ren butte, pilot-knob, 
stands in isolated 
loneliness. Soon we 
turn to the left, leav- 
ing the river, and pass 

JPeru — in 8 miles 
—and in live miles 
more, arrive at 

Bryan— a desert- 
ed old station. The 
counlry around is bar- 
run, composed of red 
siud, and uninviting 
in tue extreme. We 
are again increasing 
our elevation. The 
road was completed 




DEVIL'S GATE, WEBER CANYON, U. P R. R. 



7G 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



of roughs, gamblers aud desperadoes. 
Wlieu the Vigihiuce Committee was iu 
session here, in 1868, they wa ted on a 
noted desperado, aud gave him 15 miuutes 
to leave town. He mounted his mule aud 
said: ''Gentlemen, if this d — m mule don't 
buck, I don't want but five." "We com- 
mend his judgment, and consider that for 
once '■" Ids head was levels 

Black's Fork is approached at this 
station. It rises iu the Uintah Mountains, 
about 100 miles to tlie southwest, and emp- 
ties into Green River, below Green Rivtr 
City. The bottom lands of this river, for 
fifty miles above Bryan, are susceptible of 
irrigation, and are I'hought to be capable 
of raising small grains. 

Mar^toil — is an unimportant station, 
7.6 miles from Bryan. Soon after passing 
the station, to the northward, the old Mor- 
mon trail from Johusou's Ford on Green 
Kiver, 1 .' miles above Green River station, 
can be seen coming down a ravine. The 
route is marked f n some distance by a 
line of telegraph poles which leads to 
Sweetwater. 

Soon after leaving this station, a fine 
view can be had to the left, south, of the 
Uintah range of mountains. The valley 
of the Beaver lays at the northern base of 
the range, and is one of the most produc- 
tive sections or theteri-itory ; corn, potatoes, 
vegetables, and small grain grow and yield 
abundantly. Beaver Creek, Avliich iiows 
through the valley, was named for the 
beavers that inhabit the creek. 

As early as 1825, Beaver Creek was 
Iviiown to Bridger and other trappers of 
the American Fur Co; in after years, it 
became the headquarters — for years at a 
time — of Jim Bridger aud other trappers 
Since trapping beaver has been aban- 
doned the increase iu Beaver Creek has been 
wonderful. Immense dams are here to be 
seen, from fou:- to six feet high, which 
tlood many thousand acres. 

The streams of this section not only 
abound in beaver, but iu fish — the trout 
here being abundant. 

Beyond the Uintah Range is the Great 
Yalleyof White Earth River, where is lo-. 
cated the Ut ; Reservation. 

lir ranger — is 9.6 miles west of 
IMarsion. The last seven and a half 
miles of track liefore reacliing this station 
was laid down by Jack Caseman in one 
day. Tlie station is named for an old set, 
tier, ]VIr. Granger, who keeps a ranclie 
xiear by. 



ham's Fork — which we cross near 
the station— rises abotit forty miles to 
the northwest, in Hodge's Pass. The 
bottom lands of this stream are very 
protluctive of s'f'i-ss; the upper por- 
tion of the valleys, near the moun- 
tains, produce e-xcellent hay-crops. 
Up this "Fork" is building- the 
4>regoji Shorl I^iiaie. 
— broad sauge — a branch of the Union 
Pacific. The first survey Avas made in 
187G, but active work of building only 
commenced in ISSl. The road had, at 
the close of theyear, 150 miles of steel 
rails laid, and its constriiction'is push- 
eel vigorously. The line pierces the 
Uintah range by a long tunnel, pene- 
trates a region aboundingin coal, and 
in close proximity to the celebrated 
soda springs of Idaho, and connects 
with the Utah & Northern branch at 
Pocotello, 15G miles north from Ogden, 
Utah. Working parties are now en- 
gaged on the line as far west as Boise 
City, and on a line branching off to 
the westward of Blackfoot, for Salina, 
in the Wood River country. 

After crossing the bridge we leave 
Black's Fork and the old stage road, 
which bears away to the left, to Fort 
Bridger, while our course is due west, 
xtp the Big Muddy, which we cross and 
recross repeatedly before reaching 
Piedmont, 50 miles distant. The valley 
of the stream is narrow, producing 
only sage- and grease-wood. 
I'luu'flilStittos— is situated on Big 
Muddycreek, j ust east of the crossing. 

The station is 10.5 miles from Gran- 
ger's, a noted place for moss agates. 
These beautiful stones are found 
along the line of the road from Green 
River to Pied mont ; in some places the 
ground is literally paved with these 
gems, varying in size from a pea to 
about f^ve inches in diameter. The 
outside is a darlv gray and a greenish 
blue in spots. Should the reader con- 
clude to stop over and hunt moss ag- 
ates, our advise would be: take your 
time and a hammer Avith you, crack the 
rocks and pebbles beneath your feet; 
and Avhen you find one of the agates, 
if it looks dull and rusty, do not throw 
it away in hopes of finding a prettier 
one, for often the dull-looking stone, 
when cut and dressed, is very beauti- 
ful and valuable; but most of the 
agates are valueless. 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



77 



Church Buttes station 
derives its name from 
the peculiar formation of 
the sand - stone bluffs, 
wliich extend for many 
miles on the left-hand side 
of the road ; they are 
about ten miles distant. 
At the Old Church Buttes 
station, on the old over- 
land stage road," — about 
nine miles to the south 
they rise in lofty domes 
and pinnacles, which, at a 
distance, resemble the flut- 
ed columns of some cath- 
edral of the olden time, 
standing in the midst of 
desolation; its lofty tur- 
retcd roof and towering 
spires rising far above 
the surrounding country ; . 
but on nearer approach 
the scene changes, and 
we find a huge mass 
of sandstone, Avorn and 
washeil by the elements 
until it has assumed the 
outline of a church of the 
grandest dimensinns, it 
being visible for a great 
distanc '. Again we go 
westward 6. 9 miles to 

Hampton — a side track, with cattle 
pens and suite for loading them — large 
herds of which range in this section, on the 
hills and in the adjacent valleys. 

To the left, aft r leaving the station, we 
see high buttes of all fantastic shapes, 
showing water lines, w'hich indicate that 
there has been "high wa'er" here some 
time in the past. 

(carter — is 10 miles from the last 
station. About seven miles north, a large 
sulphur spring, and near it a calybeta 
spring has been discovered, and about 
fourteen miles farther a mountain of coal ; 
the total thickness of the veins is 87 feet, 
traceable for twelve miles. A branch rail- 
road is contemplated to the coal bank, via 
the springs. 

This station is named for Judge Carter, of 
Bridger. This frcntlemau has a large ware- 
house at this point, where freight until re- 
cently, was received and shipped to Vir- 
ginia City, Helena, and Bannock City, 
Montana Territory. This route was the 
shortest wagon route from the East, until the 
buildiug of the Utah and Northern. 




JAMES BRIDOER — Sae following pags. 

The series of buttes that has been ob- 
.served on our left below, continues, but 
are more of a uniform height — table-topped, 
with scrub cedars in the gulches and 
ravines. Some of these buttes look like 
immeuse railroad dumps, as they jet out 
into the valley, round and steep. 

On the right, the soil is red-clay, watl) 
some rocks of the same color. 

Fort Bkidoeii — is ten miles east from 
this station, over the bluffs, out of sight, 
having been established in 1858, by General 
A. S. Johnson, latitude 41 deg. 18 miu. and 
12 sec; longitude 110 deg. 32 min. and 38 
sec. 

Black's Fork, which runs through the 
center of the parade ground, afibrds ex- 
cellent water, and with Smith's Fork, a 
stream five miles southeast, affords as fine 
trout as there is in the country. 



The "good, old-fashioued way" of imparting 
knowledge to dull pupils — By rule, paddling it in 
thi-ougli the pores of the skin. 

"Cayotes" are a small species of wolf. "Jack 
rabbits" are of the hare family. 

Infantry soldiers are called, by the Indians, 
"heap walk raen. " 



78 



CUOFUTT S >'EAV OVEIILANI) TOURIST 



This post was named after J>_mes 
Bridger, the reuouned hunter, trapper and 
guide, who lived in this country nearly 
half a century. (See portrait page 77.) 

"Jim" Bridger is imdoubtedly the 
most noted of all the old plains men, and 
early pioneers in our far western countiy. 
Through the courtesy of W. A. Carter,_of 
Fort Bridger, we liave been furnished with 
a fine picture of Mr. Bridger, rnd a short 
sketch of his eventful life — from which we 
condense : 

'■Jim" was born in Richmond, Virginia 
— sometime about the last of the last cen- 
tury—and while he was very small, his 
parents emigr;itcd to St. Louis, Mo., where, 
shortly after their arrival, they both diet 
of an epidemic then prevailing in that 
city. Having no one to look to or care for 
him, he engaged to accompany a par y of 
trappers who were then fitting out for a 
trip to the Rocky Mountains. 

Entirely devoid of even the commonestru- 
diments of education, lie crossed the then 
almost wholly unknown and trackless 
plains, and plunged into the pathless 
mountains. Greatly attracted by the novelty 
of the sport, at that time quite profitable, 
he entered eagerly upon the business of 
trading in fur. Being naturally shrewd, and 
possessing a keen faculty of observation, he 
carefully studied the habits of the beaver, 
and profiting by the knowledge obtained 
from the Indians — witli whom he chiefly 
associated, and with whom he became a 
^reat favorite — he soon became one of the 
most expert trapi^ers and hunters in the 
mountains. 

Eager to satisfy his curiosity, a natural 
fondness for mountain scmery, and a rov- 
ing disposition, he traversed the country in 
every direction, sometimes in company 
with Indians, but oftener alone; he famil- 
iarized himself with every mountain peak, 
every gorge, every hill, and every land- 
mark in the country. He pursued his trap- 
ping expeditious north to the British Pos- 
sessions, south to Mexico, and west to the 
Pacific Ocean. In this way be became 
acquainted with all the tribes of Indians in 
the countiy, and by long intercourse vv^ith 
them, learned their language and became 
familiar with all their signs. He adopted 
their habits, conformed to their customs, 
became imbued with all their superstitions, 
and at length excelled them in strategy. 
The marvelous stories told by Bridger are 
numerous, but we have not the space for a 
-"specimen." In after years, when it be- 



came necessary to send millitary expedi- 
tious ihrough the far western country, the 
Government employed Bridger as a guide, 
and his experience was turned to good ac- 
count as an interpreter of Indian languaees. 

Mr. Bridger died in 187o, near Kansas 
City, ]Mo., having outlived the sphere of 
liis usefulness, there being no longer any 
port on of the West unexplored, and hav- 
ing reached the period of second childhood. 

As this post is one of great historic in- 
terest, we publish, in our Annex No. 17. 
Memories of Eort Bridger. 'I'o the next 
station it is 'J.5 miles, aud is named after 
that old hunter and trapper, 

Iti'idtsei* — and it is as unpretentious as 
the original. Scrub cedar in tue high rocky 
bin lis, sage-brush, red sandstone and red 
clay, with bunch-grass for sandwiching, is 
the make-up of the surrounding country. 
It is inhabited by a few wood-choppers, 
some stock men,, with herds of cattle and 
sheep, a fuw deer, antelope, coyotes and 
jack rabbits by the thousands. For agricul- 
tural purposes, it is in a high state of deso- 
lation. 

For the next three stations we shall 
ascend rapidly. Theblufls are nearer, and 
we cross and re-cross the " Muddy " very 
often, the little stream being nearly as 
crooked as the streets in Bostou. 

A few miles beyond, on the left, is a 
towering cliff, which comes to a point, near 
the road, on the side of which are some 
notable water-lines. 

This clill" is about 500 feet in height, and 
where it comes to a point is pulpit-shaped, 
and is known as Pluto's Outlook. A little 
further smith is his 3Iajesty's Stone-Yard, to 
which the railroad company, j^ears ago, 
laid a track for the purpose of using the 
flat stone which lay around scattered all 
over the "yard," but here a difficulty 
seems to have arisen. The masons re- 
ported that the stone was " bedeviled," 
and would, not lay still ; when the stone 
was laid flat in their work, the next 
morning they would be found on the 
edge; when laid on the edge and left alone 
for a few moments, they were found flat- 
ways. This state of things so alarmed the 
masons that they abandoned their work 
and the country, and it is not known what 
has become of them. 

Lieroy — a side-track, is five miles from 
Bridger. Near here the old overland road 
comes down the mountains, crossing the 
railroad to the west, at Burns' old ranche, 
the route marked by the line of telegraph 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



79 



poles. Three miles west, on this stage road, 
are the soda springs 

Piedmont — is ten miles from Le- 
roy; there are a few dozen buildings in 
sight. The principal business iu which 
the people are engaged is the burning of 
charcoal for shipment to smelting fur- 
naces in Salt Lake Valley. There are live 
patent kilns close to the left of the road, 
the wood being hauled from the Uintah 
Mountains to the southward, from 15 to 20 
miles distant. 

Leaving the station, look ahead from the 
left side, at the track and snow-sheds. The 
grade is very heavy, the country is rough 
and broken, and the road is very crooked, al- 
most doubling back on itself in places. 
The track is laid over many long and high 
trestle bridges, all of which have been filled 
in with dirt, within the last six years. 

Before reaching the next station, our 
train will pass through five long snow- 
sheds. The small houses near the sheds 
are the habitations of tlie watchmen who 
have them in charge. These sheds are 
built very tight to prevent fine snow from 
sifting through, which causes them to 
be quite dark. From Piedmont, it is 9.4 
miles to 

Aspen— a side-track. Lumber piles 
and Wciter-tauk make up the place. This 
station is next in height to Sherman, on 
the line of the Union Pacific. Elevation, 
7,835 feet ; is 977 miles from San Francisco, 
and 937 from Omaha, situated oo tlie low- 
est pass over the Uintah Mountains. 

The station derives its name from the 
high mountain to the north, called "Quak- 
ing Asp." The summit of this mountain 
is covered with snow during most ot the 
year. The " quaking asp," or aspen, a 
species of poplar, grows in profusion iu 
the gulches and on the sides of the moun- 
tain. The old overland stage road 
winds around the northern base, while the 
railroad girds its southern borders, nearly 
encircling it between the old and new; de- 
cay and death marking the one, life, energy 
and growing strength, the other. 

•Leaving Aspen, the grade is downward 
to Salt Lake Valley. After rolling through 
two long snow-sheds and five miles of 
road, we are at 

Hilliard — population 400. At this 
station business can be felt in the air. A 
"V " flume crosses the railroad track— 20 
feet above it— in which immense quanti- 
ties of lumber, ties, telegraph poles, cord- 
wood, etc., are floated down from the pine- 



ries of the Uintah Mountains, from 20 to 
30 miles distant, south. Just to the right 
of the station are located rows of the 
J. C. Cameron bee-hive kilns, for burn- 
ing charcoal. There are about 30 of 
them, of two difterent sizes, some with a 
capacity for 20 and some 40 cords of wood. 
Tliese kilns can each be filled and burned 
three times a month, and from 20 cords of 
wood 1,000 bushels of charcoal is pro- 
duced. This coal is mostly shipped to 
smelting furnaces, to the westward — Salt 
Lake City, Virginia City, Eureka, San 
Francisco, etc. One smelting furnace was 
erected here — at the coal — during the year 
1877. 

Sulphur springs are located opposite 
the station, to the north and south, from 10 
to 25 miles distant, but (hei/ are getting too 
common to require a description ; "and 
then, owing to late teachings, they pos- 
sess little interest to our readers. 

Two miles irom Hilliard, to the right 
of the road, we come to the site of old 
Bear River City, of early railroad days, 
but now entirely deserted. It is situated 
in a little valley at the mouth of a ravine, 
where the old overland stage road comes 
down from the north of Quaking Asp 
Mountain. At one time this place was 
quite populous, and was supposed likely 
to become a permanent town. At this 
point the roughs and gamblers, who had 
been driven from point to point westward, 
made a stand, congregating in large num- 
bers. They swore "that they would be 
driven no further ; that here they would 
stay, and tight it out to the bitter end. 
The town contained about 1,000 law-abid- 
ing people, and when the roughs felt that 
trouble was coming on them, they with- 
drew to the hills and organized for a raid 
on the town. Meanwhile some of the 
roughs remained in the town, and among 
them were three noted garroters, who had 
added to their long list of crimes that of 
miu'der. The citizens arose, seized and 
hung them. In this act they were sus- 
tained l>y all law-abiding people, also by 
the Index, a paper which had followed the 
road, but was then published here. This 
hastened the conflict, and on the 19th of 
November, 18G8, the roughs attacked the 
town in force. This attack was repulsed 
by the citizens, though not until the Bear 
River riot had cost sixteen lives, including 
th at of one citizen. The mob first attacked 
and burned the jail, taking thence one of 
their kind who was confined there. They 



"80 



CKOFUTT 8 NEW OVERLAND TOUKIST 



next sacked the office and destroyed the ma- 
terial of the Frontier Index, which was sit- 
uated in a building close to tlie railroad, on 
the south side. Elated with their success, 
the mob, numbering about 300 well-armecl 
desperadoes, marched over to the north side, 
up the main st?"eet, and made an attack on a 
store belonging to one of the leading mer- 
chants. Here they were met with a vol- 
ley from Henry rifles, in the hands of 
brave and determined citizens, who had 
collected in the store. The mob was 
thrown into confusion, and fled down the 
street, pursued by the citizens, about thirty 
in number. The first volley and the run- 
ning fight left fifteen of the desperadoes 
dead on the street. The number of 
wounded was never ascertained, but sev- 
eral bodies were afterwards found in the 
gulches and among the rocks, where they 
had crawled away and died. One citizen 
was slain in the attack on the jail. From 
this time the roughs abandoned the city. 

The town declined as soon as the road 
was built past it, and now there is nothing 
left to mark the place, except a few old 
chimneys, broken bottles and scattered 
oyster cans. Passing on, the blufls are 
higli and broken, coming close to the road, 
leaving buta narrow valley, until we reach 

]flillis — a side-track, four miles from 
Hilliard. Soon after passing Mill is, we 
come to the valley of Bear River, down 
which we run for two miles and cross that 
river on a trestle bridge, 600 feet in length. 

Bear Riveu — This stream rises about 
sixty miles to the south in the Uintah and 
Wasatch Mountains. It has many tribu- 
taries, which abound in very fine trout — 
and quite a business is carried on in catch- 
ing and salting Ihem for the trade. The 
river here runs almost due north, to Port 
Neuf Gap. Before reaching the Gap, it 
comes to Bear Lake, from which it takes 
its name. The lake is about 15 miles 
long by seven wide, and contains plenty of 
trout and other fish. There arc some 
pretty Mormon settlements at diflerent 
points along the river and lake shore. 

The Upper Bear Lake Valley is a point 
of great interest on account of the fertility 
of the soil, its romantic situation, the 
beautiful and grand scenery of rock, lake 
and mountain in that neighborhood. The 
valley lies in Rich county, the most north- 
ern county in Utah Territory, and is about 
25 miles long, with a varying width. 

At Port Neuf Gap, the river turns, and 
thence its course is nearly due south, until 



it emi^ties into Great Salt Lake, near the 
town of Corinne. The course of the 
river can best be understood when v>'e say 
that it resembles the letter U in shape. 
From where it rises it runs due noi th to 
latitude 42 deg. ^0 min., then suddenly 
turning, it runs south to latitude 41 deg. 
43 min., before it finds the lake. Within 
this bend lies the Wasatch Mountains, a 
spur of the Uintah, a rugged, rough, bold, 
but narrow range. 

The entire region js wild and pictur- 
esque, and would well repay the tourist for 
the time spent in visiting it. About sixty 
miles distant, to the north, are the far-famed 
Soda Springs, of Idaho, situated in Oneida 
county, Idaho Territory. 

The old route, by which this northern 
country was reached, was from Ogden, 
via Ogden Canyon and Ogden Valley; 
710W the best route is via Utah Northern 
railroad to Franklin, and from thence 
east ; see further on. 

We now return to the road, and pass 
down the valley, cross Yellow Creek, one 
of the tributaries of Bear River, and 9.5 
miles from Millis, arrive at 

Evanston — This is a regular eating 
station, where trains from the East and 
\Vest Slop 30 minutes for dinner; the wait- 
ers are Chinese. —The meals, good. 

Evanston is the county seat of Uintah 
county, Wyoming, 957 miles from either 
Omaha or San Francisco -jws^ lialf icay 
between the jMissouri River and the Pa- 
cific Ocean. The Railroad Company have 
erected a 20-stall round-house, repair shops, 
hotel, freight and passenger buildings, 
and the place has improved otlierwise 
very much. It now contains about 1,200 
white and about 150 Chinese inhabitants. 
The town boasts of some good buildings — 
including a fine court-house. The Age, a 
weekly newspaper, is published here. 

The citizens of Evanston are mostly en- 
gaged in lumbering, coke-burning, coal- 
mining and stock-raising. 

The'railroad was completed to this point 
late in the fall of 1868, and a large amount 
of freight was delivered here for Salt Lake 
Valley and Montana. Saw-mills supply 
lumber from the almost inexhaustible 
pine forests on Bear River to the south- 
ward. 

About three miles east to the right of the 
road, and of Bear River Valley, is located 
the town of 

Alma — Here are located some of the 
most valuable coal mines on the road, and 



AM) I'ACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



81 



whicli supply large quantities to the rail- 
road company. The mines are said to be 
very extensive, easily worked, yielding coal 
of good quality, and employ about 800 men, 
most of whom are Chinese. From 150 to 
200 car loads are shijjped from Alma per 
day to towns on the line of the Central Pa- 
cilic railroad, to Virginia City, Gold Hill, 
and Carson in Nevada and to San Fran- 
cisco. A branch railroad has been con- 
structed to the mines, leading off about 
'^one mile north of Evanstou. 

Soon after leaving Evanston we leave 
Bear River to the right, ard follow up a 
beautiful little valley eleven miles to 

Wasatcll — This station was once a 
regular eating station, with round-house 
and machine shops of the company located 
liere, but a change has been made to 
Evanston, and the place is now deserted. 

Four miles west we cross the dividing 
line between Wyoming and Utah Territo- 
ries. It is marked by a sign-board beside 
the road, on which is painted on one side, 
"Wyoming," the other " Utah." 

Game is found in the hills— deer, elk, 
and antelope — and in the Uintah and Wa- 
satch ranges, brown, black and cinnamon 
bear are common, and in all the little 
streams, fish of different kinds are abun- 
dant— iroM^ particularly. 

On leaving Wasatch, we arrive at the 
divide and head of Echo Canon, one-half 
mile distant. Here we find the longest 
tunnel on the road, 770 feet in length,"cut 



through hard red clay and sandstone. 
When the tunnel was completed, it was ap- 
proached from the east by two long pieces 
of trestle-work, one of which was 230 feet 
long and 30 feet high ; the other 450 feet 
long and 75 feet high, which have since 
been filled in with earth. The tunnel 
opens to the westward, into a beautiful 
little canyon, with a narrow strip of grassy 
bottom land on either side of a miniature 
stream, known as the North Fork of Echo. 
The hills are abrupt, and near the road, 
leaving scarcely more than room for a 
roadway, including the grassy land re- 
ferred to. Along these blulfs, on the left- 
hand side of the stream, the road-bed has 
been made by cutting down the sides of 
the hills and filling hollows, in some pla- 
ces from 50 to 75 feet deep. 

Before the tunnel was completed, the 
road was laid temporarily from the divide 
into Echo Canyon by a Z or zigzag track, 
which let the cars down to the head of the 
canyon — under the trestles above named. 
The great difficulty to overcome by the 
railroad company in locating the road 
from this point into Salt Lake Valley was 
the absence of spurs or sloping hills to 
carry the grade. Every thing seems to 
give way at once, and pitch headlong away 
to the level of the lake. The rim, or 
outer edge, of the table-lands, breaks ab- 
ruptly over, and the streams which make 
out from this table-land, instead of keep- 
ing their usual grade, seem to cut through 




'PRICKEY," THE PET HORXED TOAD OF THE PACIFIC COAST. 

See Page 126. 



82 



CROFUTT S XEAV OVERLAND TOURIST 



the rim and drop into the valley below, 
there being no uplands to cany them. 

By the present line of road, the cars 
enter Echo Canyon proper at the little sta- 
tion of 

€!astle Rock — 8.4 miles from 
Wasaich. This station derives its name 
from the long line of sandstone blufl's on 
the right-hand side of the canyon, which 
are worn and torn away until, in the dis- 
tance, they have the appearance of the old 
feudel castles, so often spoken of, but so 
seldom seen, by modern tourists. For a 
long distance these rocks line the right- 
hand bank of the canyon, their massive 
red sandstone fronts towering from 500 to 
1,500 feet above the little valley, and hear- 
ing the general name of " Ca-tle Rocks." 

The cars descend the canyon amid some 
of the grandest and wildest scenery ima<j;- 
inable. We do not creep along as though 
we mistrusted our powers, but with a snort 
and roar tlie engine plunges down the de- 
file, which momentarily increases to a 
gorge, only to become, in a short distance, 
a giand and awful chasm. About 7,2 
miles below Castle Kock — at 
' Emory — the traveler can seetheNa- 
Itural Bridge, a conglomerate forma- 
'tion, spanning a cleftinthe wall on the 
right-handside : this "HangiugRock 
|of Echo" has more than a local reputa- 
tion. Itgavethename to an overland 
'stage station, when the completion of 
this road was— but in the dreams of 
its sanguine projectors — an iinde- 
Iflned and visionary thing of the future. 

The left hand side of the canyon pre- 
sents but few attractions compared with the 
bolder and loftier blutl's opposite. The 
wall breaks away and recedes in sloping, 
grassy hillsides, whde Ave know not what 
lies beyond these walls to the right, for 
they close the view in that direction. 
Wall, solid wall, broken wall, walls of 
sandstone, walls of granite, and walls of a 
conglomerate of both, mixed with clay, 
rise far above us, and shut from our vision 
whatever lies beyond. 

The beauties of Echo Canyon are so 
many, so majestic, so awe-inspiring in their 
sublimity, that there is little use in calling 
the traveler's attention to them. But as we 
rush swiftly along, seemingly beneath these 
towering heights, we can note some of the 
more prominent features. 

The only difhculty will be that one will 
hardly see them all, as the cars thunder 
along, waking the echoes among these 



castellated monuments of red rock, whose 
towering domes and frowning buttresses 
gave the name to this remarkable opening 
in the Wasatch Mountains. Four miles 
below Hanging Kock the walls rise in 
massive majesty — the prominent features 
of the canyon. Rain, wind and time have 
combined to destroy them, but in vain. 
Centuries have come and gone since that 
mighty convulsion shook the earth to its 
center, when Echo and Weber canyons 
sprung into existence — twin children — 
whose birtli was heralded by throes such 
as the earth may never feel again, and still 
the mighty Avail of Echo remains, bidding 
defiance alike to time and his co-laborei.s — 
the elements; still hangs the delicate fret 
and frost Avork from the walls; still the 
pillar, column, dome and spire stand boldly 
forth in all their grand, wild and Aveird 
beauty to entrance tlie traveler, and fill his 
mind Avith Avonder and awe. 

About six miles beloiv Hanging Rock, 
U]i on the topmcjst heights of tlie toAvering 
clifl's, a thousand feet above the bed of the 
canyon, can be seen the fortifiiations 
erected by the ]VIormons to defend this 
pass against the army under Johnson, sent 
out in 1857 by Uncle Sam. These fortifi- 
cations consist of massive rocks, placed on 
the verge of the precipice, Avhich Avere to 
be toppled over on the heads of the sol- 
diers below, but the experiment Avas never 
made, so the rocks remain to be used on 
some other foe, or as the evidences of a 
people's folly. 

On goes the engine, whirling us j^ast 
castle, cathedral, towering column and 
rugged battlement, past raviues vihieh cut 
the walls from crest to base in awful 
chasms, shooting over liridges and flying 
past and under the overlianging walls (see 
Steamboat Rock, Annex No. W); when, 
after crossing Echo Creek, thirty-one times 
in twenty-six miles, we rush pa-t the 
Witches' CaA-e and Pulpit Rock, our en- 
gine giving a loud .scream of Avaruing to 
the brakemen, Avho "throAving on the 
brakes," bring the train to a stop, and we 
get out once more to examine the country, 
Weber River and Echo City station. 

Before Ave take a final leave of Echo 
Canyon we Avill lelate an incident, thrill- 
ing in its nature, but happily ending with- 
out serious results, which occurred there 
during the construction of the road from 
Echo "city to the mouth of Weber, and is 
known as " Paddy Miles' Ride." — see An- 
nex No. 20. 



AXD PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



83 



Directly ahead of our train, as it emerges 
from Eclio Canyon, coming in from the 
south, is 

Weber River — This stream rises in 
the Wasatcli 3Iountaius, 70 miles to tlie 
south, its waters being supplied by tliou- 
sands of springs, many larger tributaries, 
and the everlasting snows of this rugged 
mountain range. It empties into the 
Great Salt Lake, just below Ogden, about 
50 miles from Echo City. The valley of 
the "Weber, from Echo City up to its 
source, is very fertile, and thickly settled 
by the Mormons. Three miles above this 
station is Chalk Creek, where a tine coal- 
bank has been discovered. Three miles 
be^yond this point is Coalville, a Mormon 
settlement of 800 inhabiljmts — a thriving 
village. Its name is derived from the 
carboniferious formations existing there. 
The coal-beds are extensive, some of the 
veins being of good quality, others being 
lignite. Echo & Park City branch is 
con-ipleted from Echo Cit.y to Park City 
— 27 miles, with a branch from Coal- 
ville, five miles to an extensive coal 
mine. The track leaves Echo City 
and passes alonj? close below the 
Union track at Pulpit Eock. 

Seven miles beyond Coalville is the 
pleasant village of Winship, situated at the 
junction of Silver Creek -and Weber River, 
containing 1,000 inhabitants. The " old 
stage road " followed up Weber to this 
point, thence up Silver Creek via Parley 
Park, and thence to Salt Lake City, 50 



miles distant from Echo. 

Parley Park — This is a beautiful val- 
ley on the old stage road, about five miles 
long by three miles wide. It is very fer- 
tile, producing fine crops of small grain. 
Several hundred settlers have located and 
made themselves homes. There is a fine 
hotel, once kept as a stage station, now 
kept by William Kimball, eldest son of 
Keber C. Fish, in any desired quantity, 
can be caught in llie streams, and game of 
manj' varieties, including deer and hears, 
inhabit the adjoining mountains. It is one 
of those pleasant jilaces where one loves 
to linger, regrets to 1 jave, and longs to 
visit again. We advise tourists to visit it; 
they will not regret a week or a month 
among the hills and streams of the LTpper 
Webe' Near this point gold and silver 
mines have been Li.scovered — which prove 
very rich, chief ol which is the Ontario 
Mine, the most p'"odnctive in Utah, and 
the prospects now are that the " Park " will 
become a greai mining center. Re 
turning, we stop a few moments at 

£clio City —The town is situated at 
the foot of tlje bluff, which towers far 
above it, 9.4 miles from Hanging Rock. 
As the cars enter the city from Echo Can- 
yon, they turn to the right, and close at the 
base of the cliff, on the'right, stands Pulpit 
Rock (see illustration) and the old stage 
ranche on the left, just where it appears 
that we must pitch off into the valley and 
river below. This city is not very inviting, 
unless you like to hunt and fish, w^hen a 




PULPIT ROCK, MOUTH OF ECHO CANYON, UT.\H. 



84 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



stay of a few days would be passed very 
pleasantly. 

Clialk Creek, Silver Creek, Echo Creek, 
and Weber River, aftbrd excellent trouting, 
while antelope are shot near the city. The 
mountains abound in bears, deer and elk. 

Echo contains about 200 inhabitants, in- 
cluding those settlers near by and the rail- 
road employes. Coal beds, extensive ones, 
are found near by, as well as an indefinite 
quantity of iron ore, which must possess a 
market value, sooner or later. 

Near Echo City, across the Weber, a 
ravine leads up the mountain side, v\'ind- 
ing and turning around among the gray 
old crags, until it leads into a beautiful 
little dell, in the center of which reposes 
a miniature lakelet, shut in on all sides by 
the hills. It is a charming, beautiful, 
tiny little gem, nestled amid a gray, grand 
setting of granite peaks and pine-clad 
gorges— a speck of delicate ethereaiized 
beauty amid the strength and ruggedness 
of an alpine world. 

Weber Canyon— To give a minute de- 
scription of this remarkable place we can- 
not attempt, as it would fill a volume 
were its beauties fully delineated, and each 
point of interest noted. But as one of the 
grand and remarkable features of the road 
it demands a notice, however meager, at 
our hands. For about 40 miles the river 
rushes foaming along, between two mas- 
sive mountain walls, which close the land- 
scape on either hand. Now, the torrent 



plunges over some mighty rock which has 
fallen from the towering clitf 1,000 feet 
above; anon, it whirls around in frantic 
struggles to escape from the boiling eddy, 
thence springing forward over a short, 
smooth rapid, only to repeat the plunge 
again and again, until it breaks forth into 
the plains, whence it glides away toward 
the lake, as though exhausted with its wild 
journey through the canyon. 

In passing down the canyon, the traveler 
should closely watch, for fresh objects of 
wonder and interest will spring suddenly 
into sight on either hand. 

From Echo City, the cars speed along 
the banks of the Weber for about four 
miles, when they enter the Narrows of 
Weber Canyon, through which the road is 
cut for two miles, most of the way in the 
side of the steep mountain that drops its 
base in the river-bed. 

Soon after leaving Echo City, on the 
right, about 100 yards from the road, and 
300 feet above it, can be seen the " Wiches' 
Rocks," a collection of red, yellow and 
gray conglomerate rocks, standing out 
from the side of the clitt', varying in height 
from 20 to 60 feet. Shortly after entering 
the Narrows, the 

One Thousand Mile Tree is passed— 
a thrifty, branching pine — bearing on its 
trunk a'sign-boaid that tells the western- 
bound traveler that he has passed over 
1,000 miles of raihvay from Omaha. This 
living milestone of nature's planting has 




ONE THOUSAND MILE TREE, U. P. R. R. 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDJi. 



85 




INTERIOR VIEW OF MORMON TABERNACLE. 



long marked this place ; long before the 
hardy Mormon passed down this wild 
g(;rge; long before the great trans-conti- 
nental railroad was even thought of. it 
stood a lonely sentinal, when all around 
was desolation ; when the lurking savage 
and wild beast claimed supremacy, and 
each in turn reposed in the shade of its 
waving arms. How changed the scene ! 
The ceaseless bustle of an active, progres- 
sive age, the hum of labor, the roar and 
rush of the passing locomotive, has usurped 
the old quiet, and henceforward the Lone 
Tree will be,not aguide to the gloomy past, 
but an index of the coming greatness of a 
regenerated country. 

Just below this tree, the cars cross a tres- 
tle bridge to the left bank of the Weber, 
thence down but a short distance, before 
they cross over another trestle to the right- 
hand side, and then, almost opposite the 
bridge, on the side of the mountain to the 
left, can be seen the 

Devil's Slide, or serrated rocks. This 
slide is composed of two ridges of granite 
rock, reaching from the river nearly to the 
summit of a sloping, grass-clad moun- 
tain. They are from 50 to 200 feet high, 
narrow slabs, standing on edee, as thougli 
forced cut of the mountain side. The two 
ridges run parallel with each other— about 
10 feet apart, the space between being cov- 
ered witli grass, wild flowers and climbing 
vine?. (See illustration, page 33.) 



Rushing swiftly along past 

Croydon— an unimportant side- 
track, 8.5 miles from Echo City, we 
soon lose sight of these rocks and behold 
others more grand, of different shapes, and 
massive proportions. The mountains 
seem to have Ijeen dovetailed together, and 
then torn rudely asunder, leaving the 
rough promontories and rugged chasms 
as so many obstacles to bar our progress. 
But engineering skill has triumphed over 
all. Wlicre the road could not be built 
over or around these points, it is tunneled 
under. Now we shoot across the river, 
and dart through a tunnel 550 feet long, 
cut in solid rock, with heavy cuts and fills 
at cither entrance. Just before entering 
this tunnel, high up to the left, formerly 
stood "Finger Rock," as seen in the illus- 
tration (pagc42), but which has been 
broken away, so as not to be visible 
now. Tlie frowning clift's bar our further 
way, and again we cross the roaring tor- 
rent and burrow under the point of an- 
other rocky promontory. Here the road 
stretches across a pretty little valley, 
known as Round Valley. 

Dashing along, with but a moment to 
spare in which to note its beauties, we 
enter the narrowing gorge again, where 
the massive w-alls close in and crush out 
the green meadows. Between these lofty 
walls, with barely room for the track be- 
tween them and the foaming torrent at our 



86 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



feet; on, around a jotting point- and again 
we emerge into a lengthened widening of 
the canyon, and we pause lor a moment at 

Weber— seven miles from Quarry. 
Tliis station lies between two Mormon 
settlements, whicli, taken in connection, 
are called Morgan City. The villages arc 
separated by the river whicli tlows through 
bottom lands, most of which are under 
cultivation ; population about 1,000. There 
are some good buildings of brick and 
stone, but the greater number are of logs 
and adobe— sun-dried bricks. At this sta- 
ti<m, opposite the depot, the first Z. C. M. 
I. appear.-, which, in jMormou rendering, 
means "Z ion's Co-operative Mercantile In- 
stitution " — a retail branch ot the great 
co-operative bouse in Salt Lake City. 

This valley shows the eflects of irriga- 
tion in Utah. Wherever the land is below 
the irrigating canals, and is cultivated, it 
yields numense crops. Grass grows all 
the way to the summit — and on the sum- 
mit — of nearly all these mountains, aftbrd- 
ing the best of pasturage all the year 
round, as the fall of snow is light, 
and enough of what does fall is blown otf 
by the wind, so that cattle and sheep can 
find sufficient for their needs at all seasons. 
The same may be said of the whole 
slope of the mountains of Utah at the 
same altitude. 

Game of all kinds is numerous through- 

■ out the same section, and trout exceedingly 

plenty, even in the tinyest little streams 

The road follows down the right-hand 

bank through this valley until just below 

Peterson — a- small, unimportant sta- 
tion, 9.7 miles from Weber, when it 
ci-osses to the left-hand side, which it fol- 
lows for four miles further, between tow- 
ering mountains, the valley now lost in the 
narrow, gloomy gorge, when suddenly the 
whistle shrieks the pass-word as we ap- 
proach the 

Wevil's Crate— a mere side-track, 
soon after leaving which, the brink of the 
toi rent is neared, and the wild scenery of 
the DcviTs Gate is before us. Onward 
toils the long train through a deep cut and 
across the bridge — 50 feet above the seeth- 
ing cauldron of waters, where massive, 
frowning rocks rear their crests far up 
toward the black and threatening clouds 
which hovi r over this witches' cauldron. 
With bated breath we gaze on this wild 
scene, and vainly try to analyze our feel- 
ings, in which awe, wonder, and admiia- 
tion are blended. We have no time for 



thought, as to how or when this mighty 
work was accomplished, no time nor in- 
clination to compare the work of nature 
Avilh the puny work beneath lis, but on- 
ward, with quickened speed, down the 
right-hand bank of the stream ; on betwef n 
these massive piles, worn and seamed in 
their ceaseless struggles against the de- 
stroying band of time ; on to where yon 
opening of light marks the open country; 
on, past towering mountain and toppling, 
rock, until we catch a view of the broad, 
sunlit plains, and from the last and 
blackest of the buttresses which guard the 
entrance into Weber, we emerge to light 
and beaut}', to catch the first view of the 
Great Salt Lake, to behold broad pkiins 
and well-cultivated fields which stretch 
their lines of waving green and golden 
shades beyond 

Uiiitali IStation— We have now 
passed through the Wasatch Iilountains, 
and are fairly in the Great Salt Lake Val- 
ley. The elevation at thi::^ point is 4,560 
feet, 2,311) feet lower than Wasatch, 58 
miles to the eastward. Uintah is 4.5 
miles from the Devil's Gate. 

Near the station, -^n this broad bottom, 
in 1862, was the .rone of the ITorrisite 
massacre. 

Here 500 men of Briglip-"- Young's 
Mormon Legion, and 500 mc.i -ho volun- 
teered for the occasion, with .Ive pieces of 
artillery, commanded by Robert T. Bur- 
ton, attacked th: " Morrisites," and after 
Ihree days' skirmishi ig, and after a score 
or more had been killed, "^^le " JMorrisites " 
surrendered. The iioile Burton, after thi 
surrender, took possession of everything 
he could find in the name of the Church ; 
shot down their leader, Joseph Morris — 
an apostate Mormon — whose only fault 
was that he claimed to be the true Prophet 
of God, instead of Bi igham Young. This 
man Burton, at the same time shot and 
killed two loumen who dared to beg him to 
save the life of their Prophet. 

The followers of Morris consisted of 
about 90 able-bodied men, mostly unarmed, 
and over 300 old men, women and ^ .11- 
dren. The prisoners were all taken to 
Salt Lake City, and condemned, and those 
who were ;ibie to work had their legs oi-- 
namentcd with ;i ball and chain, and were 
put to picking ^.tone to build the Mormon 
temple. ' >n the 0th of T larch, 1863, these 
parties were all pardoned by Hon. S. S. 
Harding, who had that spring arrived in 
Utah as Governor of the Territory. 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



87 



Leaving Uintah, the road winds around 
to the right and follows the base of the 
mountains, with the river on the left. The 
country is fertile and dotted with well- 
tilled tarms. As we run along down the 
Weber River, and 7,5 miles from Uintah, 
we reach 

Ogden — the junction of Union and Cen- 
tral Pacitic railroads. The distance from 
Omaiia is ],0o2 miles; from San Francisco 
882 miles; from Salt Lake City, 36 miles; 
elevation, 4,o01 feet. Near the station 
building are the depots of the Utah Cen- 
tral and the Utah & Norlhern railroads. 

All passengers, baggage, mail, and ex- 
press, " change cars " at this station. Pas- 
sengers who have through tickets in sleep- 
ing cars v\ill occupy the same numbers in 
the Central as they had in the Union, and 
those who had their baggage checked 
through need give it no attention; but 
those who only checked to this place— to 
the end of the U. P. road — will need to 
see that it is re-checked. At this station, 
trains stop a full hour, and sometimes a 
little longer — much depending upon the 
amount of matter to be changed from one 
train to another. 

The station building stands between the 
tracKs, in which passengers will find a 
dining room, where they can have ample 
time to eat a gootl "square meal " — price 
$1.00. Mo.-tof the buildings at the station 
are of wood, but the nece-sary grounds 
have been secured near by for the erection 
of a " Union Depot." When will it be 
done? Qiiieii snbcf 

Ogden City is s.tuated one miles east 
from the depot, at the mouth of Ogden 
Canyon, one of the gorges which pierce 
the Wasatch range, and between the Weber 
and Ogden rivers. Population, about 
6,500. This is the county seat of Weber 
county, and has ainpl}' provided itself with 
all needful county buildings. The Mor- 
mons have a tabernacle, and several other 
denominations have places of woivhip 
here. The citizens are mostly Mormon, 
and all public improvements are under 
their supervision. It is a poor place for 
" carpet-baggers." 

The waters of the Ogden River are con- 
ducted through the streets, and used in the 
gardens and lields for irrigating, the re- 
sult of which is that the city is in the 
midst of one great tlower garden and for- 
est of fruit and shade trees. In the gar- 
dens are fruit trees of all kinds, -which 
bear abundantly, and in the tields are 



raised immense crops of grain and vege- 
tables. 

Rich mine> of iron, silver and slate 
are reported near the city, but little has 
been done towards developing them. 

Ogden has several good hotels, chief of 
which is the Utah House. Two news- 
papers are published here. Ihe Junction 
and the Chronicle. 

The Wasatcli JVlounrains r.se some thou- 
sands of feet above the city, and the tourist 
would tiud much of interest in a stroll up 
the mountain side and along the canyons. 
Ogden Canyon is about five miles long, and 
from its mouth to its source, from plain to 
mountain lop, the scenery is grand and im- 
posing. In places the granite walls rise on 
each side l,r)00 feet higb, and for a consid- 
erable distance not more than 150 feet apart. 
About six miles from Ogden, up in the 
mountains behind the town, is a lovely lit- 
tle valley called "The Basin," watered by 
mountain streams and covered with a lux- 
uriant growth of grass. 

Before proceeding fuither, we will take a 
hasty glance at 

Utah Territory. 

This territory extends from the 37th to 
Ihe 4'2d parallel of north latitude, and from 
the lOilth to the 114th degree of west longi- 
tude, containing a superticial area of about 
65,000 square miles, with a population of 
about 143,907 whites, Indians and Chinese. 
This area includes large tracts of wild 
mountainous and barren country. At pres- 
ent, most of the lands under cultivation 
and the meadow lands are around the 
lakes and in the neighboring mountain val- 
leys, and are very productive when irii- 
gated; grains, fruits and vegetables matur- 
ing readily, and yielding large returns — 
the aridity of the climate precluding the 
growing of crops by any other means. 

Opposite title page of ihis book, see illus- 
ti'ation — Utah's Best Crop. 

Rich veins of gold, silver, coal, iron, cop. 
per, zinc, cinnabar, antimony and nearly 
all the metals found in the "Great West," 
ex'.st in Utah, and it is the opinion of most 
men, had it not been for the " Councils" of 
Brigham Young to his followers, the Mor- 
mons, not to prospect lor minerals, Utah 
might to-day be an honored State, in the 
great tamily of States, with a developed 
mineral wealth, second only to Calif(jruia, 
and possibly the firs'. The whole country 
within her borders would be illuminated 



8S- 



C ItoFUTT S NEW OVERLAND XOUKIST 



with the perpetual fires of her "smelting 
furnaces," and resound with the thuuderiug 
echoes and re-echoes of the thousands of de- 
scending stamps grinding out the wealth, 
which, since the compleiion of the Pacific 
railroad, and the consequent influx of 
"Gentiles" has been exported by mil- 
lions and most efi'ectually demonstrated the 
fact that Utah, if nottherichesi, is certainly 
next \o the richest silver-mining country in 
the world. 

Besides the above, brimstone, saltpeter, 
gypsum, plumbago audsodahave been dis- 
covered, some of which are being worked, 
while fire-clay, marble, granite, slate, red 
and white sandstone, limestone and kindred 
formations exist to an almost unlimitetl ex- 
tent. Salt can be shoveled up in its crude 
state on the shores of Salt Lake, and in the 
southern part of the Territory, is found by 
the mountain, in a remarkably transparent 
and pure state. 

Iron ore exists in large quantities in 
Iron, Summit and A\ eber counties. Coal 
abounds in various parts, but the principal 
mines now worked are at Coalville, in 
Summit coimty and in San Pete. The lat- 
ter yields a good quality of blacksmith 
coal, in large quautilies. 

At this time there are about 30 organized 
mining districts in the Territory. We have 
not the space to devote to a description of 
the mines, were we able ; they appear to be 
Inexliuiistible and very rich. Man>- 
are producing large quantities of ore. 
Fish culture has, since 1874, been re- 
ceiving some attention, and a fish farm 
with a superintendent thereof, is located a 
few miles from Salt Lake City. 

There are quite a numl)er of smelting 
furnaces in operation in various parts of 
the Territory, and in Salt Lake City. 

Utah was first settled in 1847. On tlu 
24th of July, the advance guard of the Mor 
mon emigration, numbering 143 men, en- 
tered Salt Lake Valley; five days later 150 
more men arrived under Captain Brown, 
and on July 31st, Great Salt Lake City was 
laid out. At that time the country be- 
longed to the Republic of Mexico, but bj* 
the treaty of GaudahAip Hidalgo, in 1848 it 
was ceded to the United States. 

The summers are very warm and dry; 
the winters mild and open. The fall of 
snow is light in the valley and heavy in 
the mountain, the melting of which aflbrds 
ample water for irrigating the foot-hills and 
valleys. Vegetables of all kinds grow 
astonishingly large, and of superior qualiy. 



Timber is not very plenty, and then, is 
only found in the mountains of difficult ac- 
cess. Return ing to business ; at Ogden, we 
will step into the cars of the 

Utah Central Railroad, 

The princiiJal ofiices of which are at Salt 

Lake City. 

Sidney Dillon Presiilent 

John Shakp Vice-President 

Fii ANcis Cope Freight and Ticket Agent 

The Utah Central is 36 5 miles in length 
and the pioneer road of Utah, excepting 
the through line. May 17, 1809, just one 
week after the "love feast" of the Union 
and the Central at Promeutory, ground was 
broken at Ogdi'u, and the enterprise was 
inaugurated with due ceremonies; Presi- 
dent Brighani Young and the chief digni- 
taries of the Morm(jn church being in at- 
tendance. 

In about half an hour after the overland 
trains arrive at Ogden Junction, the cars of 
this road roll up to the depot for passengers. 
When leaving, the train crosses tlie Weber 
River, on a fine bridge ; just to the north of 
the depot passes through a deep cut and 
comes out on a bench of j and that gradually 
slopes from the mountains on the left, to the 
waters of the lake on the right, six and 
four miles distant, respectively. 

From the car window, on the right, a 
good view can be had of a portion of Great 
Salt Lake, but the best view is to be had 
from the top of Promontory Mountain. See 
Annex No. 21. The first station from 
Ogden is 16 miles distant, along the slop- 
ing laud named, which is covered above 
the line of irrigation, with sage, but below 
with the thrifty JMormon farmers. A wide 
strip of land near the Lake is valueless, 
owing to the salt in the soil. 

Kaysville — is an incorporated town 
in Davis county, and is surrounded with 
well-cultivateil farms, finely kept gardens, 
with water running through the streets, 
and has fruit and shrubbery in profusion. 

The county is comprised of five towns, 
all, with one exception, traversed by our 
roa'l, within the next 15 miles. The county 
has about 7,000 population, seven flouring 
mills and three saw mill •. 

F All iM ING TON — is the next station, 
five miles distant, being the county seat of 
Davis county, and contains gootl county 
buildings, several flouring mills, and the 
usual beautiful surroundings of fruit trees 
and orchards, for which all Mormon set- 
tlements are noted. 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



89 




BRIGIIAM VOUM. , r l.-l ij i 



Centekville— is the next station, four 
miles t'vom Furmington. The description 
of one Mormon viHage will do for nearly 
all; good farms and crops are the rule, 
where the land is irrigated, and none where 
it is not. 

Wood's Crossing— comes next, two 
miles further, being the station for the lit- 
tle village of Bountiful, on the left, and is 
in the midst of the best cultivated and best 
producing land in the Territory. 

The course of our road froni Ogden to 
Salt Lake is almost due soutli, while the 
Wasatch Mountains, for 30 miles, describe 



a huge circle in the middle to the east- 
ward. The lower point of this circle we 
are fast approaching, and will reach in 
about two miles, just at the point of the 
mountain ahead, where steam is rising. 
There, under the point of that huge rock, 
boils up a hot spring, in a large volume, 
forming a creek several feet in width, with 
a depth of six inches, and it is very hot- 
There is n(. nonsense about this spring; it 
sends forth a never-failing stream. 

The highest peak in the mountain, 
close to tlie eastward of these springs al- 
luded to, is 1,200 feet above the valley, and is 



90 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



called Ensign Peak — the " Mount of Proph- 
ecy," — where the late Prophet, Brigham 
Youug, was wont to wrestle with the Lord. 

Just beyond, on the right, is Hot Spring 
Lake, which is formed from the waters of 
this and others of lesser volume, near by. 
This lake freezes over in the winter, except 
near the shore on the northeastern end, and 
is a great resort for skaiing parties from 
Salt Lake City. Great Salt Lake never 
freezes over — it's too salt. 

Pasi?ing the lake, our road keeps straight 
across a broad bottom, while the moun- 
tains on the left again curve away to the 
eastward. 

The W'arm Spring buildings, where are 
located the city baths, can be seen beside 
the mountain on the left, marked by a con- 
tinuous column of steam, rising near the 
bui. dings. 

These are the disputed springs, to obtain 
possession of which, it is supposed by 
many. Dr. Robinson was murdered. The 
baths are well patronized by invalids, who 
visit them for health, relying on their me- 
dicinal qualities to remove their ailments. 
The following is an analysis of the water, 
as made by Dr. Charles T. Jackson, of 
Boston : 

Tluee fluid ounces of the water on evap- 
oration to entire dryness in a platina cap- 
sule gave 8.25 grains ef solid, dry, saline 
matter. 

Carbonate of lime and magnesia 0.240 1.280 

Per oxide of iron 0.040 0.208 

Lime 54.5 2.9J7 

Clilorine.... 3.454 18.4-21 

Soda S.SIT 1.-.348 

JMasneeia 370 2.C73 

Sulpliuric acid 0. 703 3.748 

8.229 43.981 

It is slightly charged with hydro-sul- 
phuric acid gas and with carbonic acid 
gas, and is a pleasant saline mineral water, 
having valuable properties belonging to 
saline sulphur springs. The usual tem- 
perature is 102 degrees F. 

They are one mile north of Salt Lake 
City, and are i cached by street cars. 

Rolling on through the northern suburbs 
of the city, a little over eight miles from 
Wood's Crossing, we stop at the depot in 
Salt Lake, the City of Zion. Passengers 
arriving at the depot will find a " Bus " at 
the eastern gt'te that will take a passenger 
and his baggage to any hotel or pointin 
the city for 50 cents; or, at the same gate, 
street cars, that pass the door of every 
prominent hotel in the city; fare, 10 cents, 
or ten tickets for 50 cents. 



Salt Lake City— or "Zion," as the 
city is often called % the JNIormon faith- 
ful, is one of the mosi beautiful and pleas- 
antly located of cities. It is situated at the 
foot of a spur of the Wasatch Mountains, 
the northern limits extending on to the 
"bench" or upland, which unites the 
plain with the mountain. From the east 
two wagon roads enter the city, via Emi- 
grant and Parley Canyons. 

The streets are wide, bordered with 
shade-trees, and laid out at right angles. 
Along each side of the streets is a clear, 
cold stream of water from the mountain 
canyons, which, with the numerous shade- 
trees and gardens, give the city an inde- 
scribable air of coolness, comfort and re- 
pose. The city contains a population of 
full 25,000, is the capital of the Territory 
and county seat of Salt Lake county. 
It has 21 wards within its limits, and 
is the terminus of four railioads. It 
contains some as tine business blocks, 
hotels, and private residences — many 
lit by electricity— as can be found in 
any eity west of the Missouri River. 

'Ihe Mormon church, besides its Taber- 
nacle, has a bishop located in every ward 
of the city, who holds ward meetings regu- 
larly. The other churihes hold services in 
four or more places in the city. The Ma- 
sons have Ave lodges in the city ; the 
Odd Fellows four, and some of the vther 
fellows several. There are o8 mining and 
smelling offices, tive sampling and smelt- 
ing works, tive iron foundries, boiler and 
brass works, twotiouringmills, one woolen 
mill, nine hotels, six breweries, two exten- 
sive marble works, and a score or more of 
small manufacturing establishments. 

There are four daily newspapers. The 
JDesi ret News is the church organ, ihe Her- 
ald i laiins to be independent, the Tribune 
strong opposition Mormcm, and the Tinas. 
Ecicii ol these issue weeklies. Ne\\spiiper 
businesb is «(/?/ precarious in Utah, it's 
as tine an opening for a young man to get 
his "teeth cut," as we know of in the 
wor.d— he can soon get a double and single 
set all around. 

In the mercantile line. Salt Lake City 



TiRMS Heakd on the Plains. — " Lariai" Is 
ihe Span sti name for rope. •' Bronco," Califor- 
nia or bpanisli pony. " Bueano," (wa-no) good_ 
'• Esta Binano," (gtarwa no) very good, nobettt r. 
" Ko sabc',"' (sar\ey) don't understand. " (Juien 
sabe," (kin tarvex ) who knows, or do you under- 
stand. 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



91 



has several establishments Ihat would do 
credit to any city in the Union, one of 
which is 








The above cut represents the Mormon 
" Co-operative Sign " — called by the Gen- 
tiles the " Bull's Eye." At the Mormon 
Conference, in the fall of 18i;8, all good 
Mormon merchants, manufacturers and 
dealers who desired the patronage of the 
Mormon people, were directed to place 
this sign upou their buildings in a conspic- 
uous place, that it might indicate to the 
people that they were sound in tho faith. 

The INIormou people were also directed 
and warned not to purchase goods or in 
any manner deal witli those who refused 
or did not; have the sign. Tt;e object 
seemed to be only to deal with their own 
people, to the exclusion of all others. 

The result of the>e measures on the part 
of the church was to force many who 
were Gentiles or apostate Mormons to 
sacrifice their goods, and leave the Terri- 
tory for want of patronage. However, the 
order was not very strictly enforced — or 
complied with yet many of these signs 
are to be seen in Salt Lake City and other 
parts ofthe Territory on buildings occupied 
by the faithful. 

To more efiectually carry out the plan 
of co-operation, one great company was to 
be formed to purchase goods in large 
quantities and establish branches through- 
out all the Mormon settlements. Such a 



company was organized, and incorporated 
with many high Mormon dignitaries as 
either stockholders or ofiicers, and it is now 
known as "Zion's Co-operative Mercantile- 
Institution" — with headquarters in Salt 
Lake City. 

The " Z. C. M. I," undoubtedly have the 
finest and largest building in the city. It 
is of brick, SiS feet long, 53 feet in width, 
three stories and cellar, end finished 
throughout in the best manner. It als» 
has an addition 25 by 11)5 feet, ■uul used 
for a warehouse; cost, $175,000, built of 
iron, stone and glass, and is now being 
enlarged. The Walker Bros, have liie 
largest Mercantile business in Utali, 
requiring five different departments, 
each occupying a large building. 

Think of it. "0 ye peoplel" 35 years 
ago this whole country 1,000 miles in any 
direction, was uninhabited and almost un- 
known to the white race.Now annual sales 
of these two establishments exceed $5,000,- 
000, and with the-ir goods, gathered here 
from all parts of the world, stand Ibrth as 
monuments of American enterprise, in an 

AMERICAN DESERT. "* 

Tlie late President Brigham Young's- 
residence (see illustration, page 89, alsa 
of 'Eagle Gate," page 109), tithing 
house, printing office and business offi- 
ces connected with the church occupy 
an entire block, on the bench of land over- 
looking the city, which is one of the first 
objects of interest visited by the traveler on 
arriving in Salt Lake City. 

The traveler who visited this city some 
years ago — before the iliscoveiy of the 
rich silver nimes — would be surprised by 
a visit now, at the remarkable changes, 
noticeable on every hand; all is life and 
energy; everybody seems to have a pocket- 
ful of certificates of mining property, and 
you hear of extensive preparations making 
on every side with a view to a vigorous- 
prosecution of various mining enterprises. 

The public buildings are not very numer- 
ous. They consist of a court-house, city 
hall, city prison, theatre, ant! 

The Tabernacle — an immense build- 
irg— the first object one beholds on enter- 
ing the city. The building is oblong in 
shape, having a lengtii of 250 feet from 
east to west, by 150"feet in width. The- 
roof is supported by 4G columns of cut 
sandstone, which, with tlie spaces be'ween^ 
used for doors, windows, etc., constitute the 
wall. From these piUars or walls, tiie 
roof springs in one unbroken arch, l^orni- 



•92 



CROFDTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



ing the largest self-sus- 
taining roof on the con- 
tinent, witli one notable 
exception, the Grand 
Union Depot, NewYorlv. 
The ceiling of the roof is 
•65 ft. above the floor. In 
one end of this egu- 
shaped building is thi 
organ, the second in si/i 
in America. The Tabei 
nacleisused f or churcli 
purposes, as vi'ell as oth 
er large gatherings of 
the people. With the gal 
lery it will seat 8,000 peo- 
ple. See illustration, p 
69, also interior view, 8j. 

TheTempl e.— This 
building is not yet com- 
pleted, but work is pro 
gressing steadily, and il 
is up about 30 ft, The d 
mensions of the found i 
tion are 99xl86i feet. Tin 
site of the Temple is on 
the eastern half of th*^ 
same block with the 
Tabernacle. 

Since the advent of ^'°' 

railroads into Utah and the discovery 
of rich mines, church property has not 
accumulated very rapidly. Within the 
past few years nearly all the religious 
denominations have secured a foot- 
hold in this city. 

Fort Douglas — a militai'y post, es- 
tablished Oct. 26, 18(i2, by Gen. E. P. 
Conner, Third Kegiment of California 
Volunteer Infantry, is situated on the 
east side of the Jordan, 4 miles from 
that stream, 3 miles cast of the City of 
Salt Lake, and 15 miles southeast of 
Salt Lake. Latitude 40 deg. 46 min. 2 
sec. : longitude. 111 deg. 53 min. 34 sec. 
Its location is on a sloping upland or 
bench at the base of the mountains and 
overlooking the city, and affords a fine 
view of the country to the west and 
south. 

JoRD.AN EivER. — This stream, which 
borders salt Lake City on the west, is 
the outlet of Utah Lake, which lies 
about 40 miles south. It empties into 
the Great Salt Lake, about 12 miles 
northwest of the city. 

There are a great many hotels in 
Salt Lake City, but the principal ones 
.are the Walker, Continental, White, 




MON TEMPLE, SALT LAKE CITY. 

Cliff, Yalley and Overland. The two 
former are under the management of 
G. S. Erb, Esq., and we know them to 
be first-claiis. 

The picture of the late President 
BrighamYoung on page 89, was the last 
one ever taken. It was made by Mr. 
Savage of Salt Lake City, an eminent 
artist and is said to be a very accu- 
rate picture. 

For sketch of the life of Brigham 
Young, see Annex 25. 



We will now take a run over all 
the railroads in Utah, commencing 
with the 

Utah Sontliei'ii Railroad. 

This road was consolidated in 1881 
with the Utah Central. It was com- 
menced May 1st, 1871, and built thii'- 
teen miles during the year, to Sandy, 
and then extended from time to time 
until at this time, January, 1882, it is 
completed 226 miles south, to Frisco. 

The cars start from the same depot 
as the Central. 

We will step on board and roll south- 
ward through the city — passing fine 



AXD rACIFlC COAST GUIDE. 



93 



residences, beautiful gardens, thrifty or- 
chards, and well-cultivated lields, with the 
Jordan River on our right, the Oquirrh 
range of mountains far in the distance, 
and the towering Wasatch Mountains on 
our left ; tills is Jordan Valley. This val- 
ley extends from Salt Lake City, south, to 
Utah Lake, about 40 miles distant, with a 
varying widtli of from two to twelve miles. 

About five miles south, on the left, is 
situated the Morgan Smelting Works, on 
the creek that comes down from Big Cot- 
tou'i^'ood, and opposite Parley Canyon, 
which can be seen on the east, just below 
the mouth of which is located the State 
Penitentiary, and the Utah "Woolen Mill. 

Crossing the creek, and passing on seven 
miles from the city, we come to 

Little Cottonwood — the first station. 
On the left are the Wasatch Smelting 
Works, and a little beyond the American 
Smelting Works. Just after crossing the 
Little Cottonwood Creek, on the right, is 
the big Germania Smelting and Refining 
Works, witli the town of Germania, con- 
taining 500 inhabitants. 

Passing along, on the right, can be seen 
great piles of silver ore — " matte " as it is 
called. 

From this point the mountain view is 
grand; to the eastward, the canyons of 
Parley, Mill Creek, Big and Little Cotton- 
wood, and Dry Creek, are all in view. 

The country here shows what irriga- 
tion is doing for it; there can be no finer 
lands or crops than are here found. In 
every direction the land is covered with a 
labyrinth of canals and ditches, conduct- 
ing the essence of life to all vegetation be- 
neath them, and literally causing the land 
to flow with " milk and honey." 

Five miles further we come to 

Junction — a small station, where all 
passengers for West Mountain, Bingham 
Canyon Mines, and the vicinity, " change 
cars " for those of the 

Biugliaiii Canyon Railroad. 

[In 18S2 this road became a brancn or tue 
Denver & Kio Grande Western, and is operated 
in conuecticu 'with, their through line.] 

This road is a three-foot narrow gauge, 
completed to the mouth of Bingham Can- 
yon, 1(3 miles west, and had cars running 
December 1st, 1873. Let us take a roll 
over it. 

Leaving the junction, our course is due 
west, through a well-cultivatcd section of 
country. 



Jordan Station — is one mile distant, 
where there is a postnflice, and a small 
collection of cottages. Near by, a track 
leads off to the Old Telegraph Smelter^ 
the dressing works of which are a short 
distance below the road, on the opposite 
side of the Jordan River, which we cross 
soon after leaving the station. 

Just as we raise on to the west bank of 
the Jordan, we come to the residence of 
Bishop Gardner, who is the "better half" 
of elfceii wives. The Bishop appears to 
stand it pretty well, although they (?o say 
that lie is occasionally found singing, " On 
Jordan's stormy banks I stand," with a 
tear accompaniment. 

West Jordan — is on the west bank of 
the river and contains a few hundred peo- 
ple. From this station, the grade in- 
creases, and soon we reach a high table- 
laud, too high for irrigation by ditches, 
without great expense. Bunchgrass, Avhite 
sage, sheep, some cattle, and Jack-rabbits 
abound — the latter are very numerous. 

The road, about five miles from the 
river, enters the long, broad ravine that 
leads to Bingham, up which we roll — the 
ravine gradually becoming narrower as 
we ascend. Occasionally we pass a little 
farm-house, and a few acres of farm and 
garden land. Neariug the mountains, the 
ravine narrows, to a few hundred feet, and 
finally lo only sutficient room for the rail- 
road and a little creek, between the blutt's 
on each side. 

These bluffs are from 250 to 1,000 feet in 
height, covered with small stone, sage, and 
a few small pine trees. 

As we ascend, the blufis are more pre- 
cipitous, higher and pierced in numerous 
places with "prospect holes." In places 
the grade is 120 feet, p,nd tJien, more, and 
finally it becomes too much lor our ii on 
horse, and we stop at the end of the steam 
road, one mile below 

Bingham City — population about 
2,000. Just below the city is located on 
the left, the Wiunemucca mill and mine. 
We knoio it is there, as we " prospected " it 
once — about 30 feet. 

Bingham City is built along the canyon 
for two miles, and contains a number of 
mills and works connect! d with mining. 
From the station, a tramway up which 
small ore cars are hauled with mules, 
extends up the canyon for three miles, 
with a branch running back fiom about 
half the distance up to a mine on the top of 
the mountain, about one and a half miles 



u 



CltOFUTT S XEAV OYERLAXD TOURIST 



further, making of tramway 41^^ miles; 
•\vliole leiiglli of road SO^o miles. 

The tramway is built ou the south side 
of the canyon, away up on the side of the 
mountain. From the cars can be had a 
fine view of the canyon, Bingham, the 
mines and mills in the neigliboring ravines 
and on the opposite moimt.iiu side, and the 
miners at ihe bottom of the canyon, working 
over the old "placer diggings." 

At the end of this tramway is located the 
old Telegraph mine, one of the richest in 
tlie Territory, from which over 200 tons of 
ore a day is shipjied, down over the tram 
and railroad to the smelters in the valley. 
The cars are h luled up by mules, and low- 
ered down to the " iron horse" below Bing- 
ham by the car brakes. 

TJae mines are numerous in and around 
Bingham, but we have ])0t the space for a 
description of them, but will return to the 
junction on the Utah Southern, and one 
mile further arrive at 

Sandy — This station is 13 mile? south of 
Salt Lake City, and one of considerable im- 
portance. 

At Sandy is to be seen immense quanti- 
ties of ore — ore in sacks, ore loose by the 
car load, ore in warehouses 500 feet long, 
with a train unloading on one side and an- 
other loading on the other ; in fact, this is 
the greatest shipping, smelting and sam- 
pling point in all Utah. 

At Sandy are three sampling works, and 
two smelting works, and a lively town of 
700 inhabitants, the greater portion em- 
ployetl in the handling and manipulation 
of ores. Here we find another railroad 
branching oti"; this time it is the 

Wasatch & Jordan Valley . 

[In 18S2 this road passed to the control of the 
Denver & Kio Grande Western, and is now oper- 
ated iti connection with their through line.] 

This road is a three-foot narrow-gauge, 
16 miles in length, running to Alta, at the 
head of Little Cottonwood Canyon. It is 
opernted by narrow gauge steam engines 
for 8.5 miles, and the other 7.5 by broad 
(jaui/e mii\t s. The road was commenced 
in 1870, finished to Wasatch in 1872, and to 
Alta in 1876. Let us take a trip over it and 
note a few of the sights. 

From Sandy the train runs north a short 
distance, and then tuinsto the east, directly 
for the Wasatch Mountains, leavingthe old 
Flagstaff smelter ou the left-hand side of 
the "track, just above the station. The 
grade is heavy, the soil is stony, and cov- 



ered more or less with sage-brush, and 
traversed by irrigating ditches conveying 
the water to a more productive and less 
stony soil below. 

Nearing the mountains, about six miles 
from Sandy, we come to a deep gorge on 
the Iclt, through which Little Cottonwood 
Creek has worn its way to the valley. From 
this point we bear away to the south-ward 
around a low butte, then turn again to the 
cast and northward and run along on an 
elevated plateau where a most beautiful 
view can be had. On the west, the Jordan 
Valley, in all its magnificent shades of 
green and gold, is at our feet, with the 
brown old mountains bordering the hori- 
zon in the distance. To the north, fifteen 
miles away, over as beautiful a succession of 
little streams, well-cultivated fields, white 
cottages, orchards and gardens, as are to be 
found witliin the same number of miles in 
this country — sleeps "Zion" in full view, 
embowered in green, with the dome of the 
monster Tabernacle glistening like some 
half-obscured " silv. . moon," sinking at 
the mountain base; while /«r beyond, and 
more to the westward, lays the Great Salt 
Lake -a mysterious pr blem. Away to 
the south, is Utah Lake, looking likerne 
large sheet of burnish' d silver, surrounded 
by a net-work of green and gold, while to 
the cast looms up towering granite m alls, 
cleft from summit to base, forming a nar- 
row gorge only sufficient y wide to allow 
our little road to be buiit beside a little 
rippling creek of crystal water. 

Rolling along, our train I'ounds the head 
of a ravine, through a deep cut, passes the 
old Davenport Smelting Works ou the 
leff, enters the mouth of thj canyon be- 
tween great walls of granite, crosses and re- 
crosses the little cr ek, and soon stops at 

Wasatch — the end 01 the steam road, 
8.5 miles from San iy Junction. This is a 
small station with postofflce, store, and a 
few dwellings containing a population of 
about 100, more than ^alf of whom are en- 
gaged in the stone quarries on the north 
side of the station. 

At Wasatch all the granite is got out and 
shaped for the Temple in Salt Lake City. 
The stone is the best yet discovered in the 
Territtuy, being of close, fine grain, of 
light gray color, and of beautiful birds-eye 
appearance. The granite on the south side 
appears much darker than that on the 
north side of the canyon. 

From almost every nook and crevice of 
these mountain clifi's— from the station away 



AXl) I'ACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



95 



up the canyon — grow small pines, cedars, 
ferus, and mosses, which, iu connection 
with the gray walls, snow-capped moii i- 
taius, glistening waterfalls, pure air and 
golden sun, presents a picture of rare 
beauty. 

Just above, on the left of the station, 
away up on a projecting cliff, 1,000 feet 
above the I'oad, stands a granite column 
which measures GG -3 feet in height, from 
the pedestal-like cliti' on which it stands. 
On each side of this column, and receding 
from its base, is a little grotto-park, filled 
with nature's evergreens, and surrounded 
on three sides and on the top with rocks of 
every size and shape. 

Finding that this granite column has 
had no name, we name it " Humphry's 
Peak," in honor of the very gentlemanly 
late superintendent of the road. 

At Wasatch we "change cars," taking 
those of about the size of an ordinary 
hand-car, fitted up with seats that will com- 
fortably accommodate about nine persons, 
besides the knight of the whip — who chir- 
rups the •' broad gauge mules." 

About a half-mile above the station we 
enter the snow-sheds, which will continue 
for seven miles, to the end of the track at 

Alta— asmall mining town, at the head 
of little Cottonwood Canyon. The end of 
the track is on the side of the mountain 
about 200 feet above i\\i town of Alta, and 
about 500 feet below the mouth of the cele- 
brated Emma Mine, whi^ ' is a little fur- 
ther to the east, and oppos the Flagstafl" 
Mine, which is about the same height 
above the road. 

The town of Alta is at the bottom of the 
canyon 200 feet lower than the end of the 
railroad surrounded with mountain peaks, 
which are covered with snow eight months 
of the year, and at all times surrounded 
with an eternal mantle of evergreen. It 
contains about 500 population, all of 
whom are engaged in mming and kindred 
pursuits. There are several stores, express, 
telegraph, and postoffice, besides several 
small hotels, chief of which is the Adolph. 
To the north, over the mountain two 
miles is the Big Cottonwood .Canyon ; to 
the south, three miles, is the Miller Mine, 
and American Fork Canyon ; Forest City is 
four miles. Three miles east by trail is 
Crystal Lake, a beautiful sheet of water 
— the angler's paradise. 

The principal mines near Alta are, the 
Emma, Flagstafl", Grizzly, Nabob, Kate 
Hays, Consolidated Alta, Laramie, Prince 



of Wales, and 1,800 others, located within 
five miles. The business of the railroad 
is the transportation of ores and supplies 
to and from the mines. Hundreds of cars 
are loaded daily with ore that is taken to 
the valley to be smelted or are sent to San 
Francisco, the East, or to Swansea, Wales. 
For novel methods of hauling ore to the 
depot, see Annex No. 24. 

The sheds over the railroad are seven 
miles in length, and are made in various 
styles of arcliitecture, more for husmess 
than beaut}', the style being adopted accord- 
ing to circumstances. They are, however, in 
all places constructed of heavy material, 
rocks, round or sawed timber, and built in 
the most substantial manner. In one place 
they are in the shape of a letter A, sharp 
peaked; in otner places, nearly upright on 
each side, one side higher than the other, 
with a sloping roof. Again the lower hill- 
side is built with a little slope toward the 
up hill side, and long heavy timbers from 
the top of these uprights slope up onto the 
mouniain side, resting on a solid granite 
foundation leveled to a uniform grade, 
for that purpose. 

Where the latter plan has been adopted, 
there is danger of snow-slides which are 
more likely to occur, in fact, have occurred a 
number of limes since the ^heds were con- 
structed, and each time, the snow and rocks 
passed over the shed into the canyon below, 
without causing one cent's worth of damage 
to the road or shed. 

Thelenirthof this road, where it is oper- 
ated with mules, is seven miles long. As 
before stated, the grade is 600 feet to the 
mile; the curves are in places 30 degrees, 
and not, as once stated in the '' Bailwiy 
Age'' 30 curves and GOO foot gauge. But we 
suppose that Col. Bridges, when he Avrote 
that, was thinking about those "broad 
gauge mules." 

Returning, the mule power that took us 
up is no longer in demand ; the knight of 
the whip now mans the brakes, and away we 
go around i\\e Age's 30 curves, to the valley 
below, "change cars" at Sandy, and are 
once more headed for the south, on the 
Utah Southern railroad. A short distance 
south, we pass the Mcintosh Sampling mill, 
on the west and another on tlie east. 

Sampling is testing such ores as are pre- 
sented in quantities sufficient to enable 
the sampling coniprtuy tp give certificates 
of their va]uv\ and then tlw ore is sold at 
the certificate rates. One mi'iC further is 
the Mingo S/aifltcr pf the Penn. Lead Co. 



/ / / 



96 



CROFUTT S >rEW OVERLAND TOUKISl' 



The land is more rolling, as we approacli 

Draper — Tliis is not a very important 
station to the tourist, but to the few vil- 
lagers of Herramon, at the mouth of a little 
canyon beside the mountains on the left, 
it is a big institution. Draper is four miles 
from Sandy and seventeen from Salt Lake 
City. 

Leaving Draper, our course is east, and 
after crossing South Willow Creek, turns 
more to the south, and finally to the west, 
having kept around the foot of the moun- 
tains, which here make a full half-circle. 
In the distance around, there are many cuts 
and some hard work, and we queried, why 
the road was built around, when the work 
was so heavy and the distance much further 
than across where there was very little 
work to be done? In answer, we were 
told that President Brigham Young laid 
out the road around the side of the moun- 
tain, by " revelation.''^ If that is so, we con- 
clude that tlie revelation came from the 
same "deity" that took our Savior up on 
the Mount, but as it is not " our funeral," 
we will not criticise. 

The lower point of the great curve is 
called the "Point of tlieMountain." At the 
point where the railroad is built around, 
the track is about 300 feet above a little 
round valley to the west, in which is lo- 
cated a hot spring, marked by a brown 
burned patch of land and rising steam. 

As our train curves around this point, a 
most charming view can be had ; one of the 
finest on the road. The valley is here 
nearer, to the northward the view in unob- 
structed for 50 miles ; to the south, Utah 
Lake, a gem in rich setting, and the great 
Lower Basins. 

Passing through numerous cuts and 
around the point, the train curves again to 
the eastward, and starts again on another 
grand curve around the rim of the basin, in 
which is located Utah Lake, in plain view. 

Nearly opposite the "point of the moun- 
tain" is a low divide in the Oquirrh Range 
on the west, over which the road leads to 
Camp Floyd. 

Continuing along through sand cuts, 
sage and an occasional farm, 14 miles from 
Draper we arrive at 

Leui — This town is situated in the midst 
of a perfect forest of fruit trees, orchards and 
gardens, Avith the waters of Dry Canyon 
Creek running through all the st' eets, and 
contains a population of about 1,500, includ- 
ing those living in the immediate vicinity. 
The good results of irrigating sage-brush 



land, are here demonstrated by the large 
crops of wheat, oats, barley and vegetables 
produced, where, before the land was irri- 
gated, nothing but sage-brush and grease- 
wood were to be seen. 

Three miles further is 

American Fork — a station 34 miles 
from Salt Lake City — the "banner "town 
for free schools; the ^rst in the Terri- 
tory, having been established here in 1869. 
The streets are wide, with the waters of 
Deer Creek, which comes down the Amer- 
ican Fork Canyon, running through them, 
and the orchards, gardens and farms in the 
neighborhood making an attractive and 
beautiful town. The population numbers 
about 1,600, the greater portion of wliom 
are engaged in agricultural pursuits. The 
American Fork House, opposite the sta- 
tion, is tlie principal hotel, and Robert 
Keppeueck is one of the jolliest of German 
hosts. 

To the southwest of the station, a com- 
pany is engaged in building a dam across 
the Jordan River for irrigating purposes. 
The canal is to be 22 feet wide on the bot- 
tom and 30 inches deep, and when comple- 
ted will e.Ktend north 20 miles, winding 
around the base of the Wasatch, near our 
road, keeping as far up on tlie side of the 
mountain as possible. From the dam, a ca- 
nal will be taken out for the west side of the 
Jordan, with a view of taking the water all 
over the lauds as far north as Salt Lake 
City, and if possible, reclaim the vast tract 
of sage land between the Jordan River at 
Salt Lake City, and the Oquirrh Range, at 
the foot of Salt Lake. 

From this station a road branches off to 
the eastward, up American Fork Canyon, 
called the 

American Fork Railroad. 

{Since the following description was written, 
the iron track of this road has been removed, and 
the road abandoned.} 

This was a three-foot, narrow gauge rail- 
road, 15 miles in length ; commenced May, 
1872, and completed 12 miles during the 
year. The grade for the whole distance is 
heavy, in places 312 feet to the mile. 

Leaving the station at American Fork, 
the road turns directly to the east, and fol- 
lows up Deer Creek, through a general as- 
sortment of sage brush, sand and boulders, 
for six miles to the mouth of the Canyon. 
On the way up, to the right, a fine view 
can be had of Mt. Aspinwall, rising frorn 
the lower range of the Wasatch to an alti- 



ANJ> PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



97 




ml; brxgham young's residkxcs. 



tudc of 11,011 feet above the sea. 

From the mouth of the canyon, about 
two miles north, is the little village of Al- 
pine, containing about 250 agriculturalists. 

Entering the canyon, the passage is 
quite narrow between the towering cliffs, 
which rise up in sharp peaks 600 feet in 
height, leaving only about 100 feet be- 
tween, through which the road is built, 
and a sparkling little stream comes rip- 
pling down ; the road, on its way up, cross- 
ing and re-crossing the stream many times. 

Uur train is rapidly climbing, but the 
canyon walls seem to be much more rap- 
idly rising, and at a distance of one, two 
and three miles, gain an additional 500 
feet, until, in places, they are full 2,500 feet 
above the road bed. In places these 
cliffs are pillared and castelated granite, in 
others, of slate, shale and conglomerate, 
seamed in places as though built up from 
the bed of the canyon by successive layers, 
some as thin as a knife blade, others much 
thicker; then again, the rocks have the 
appearance of iron slag, or dark colored 
lava suddenly cooled, presenting to the 
eye every conceivable angle and fan- 
tastic shape — a continuous, ever-changing 
panorama. 

Imagine, then, this canyon with its 

grotioes, amphitheatres, and its towering 

crags, peaks, and needle-pointed rocks, tow- 

ering/«r above the road, overhanging it in 

7 



places, with patches of eternal snow in the 
gloomy gorges near the summit, and clothed 
at all times in a mantle of green, the pine, 
spruce and cedar trees growing in all the 
nooks and gulches and away up on the sum- 
mit ; then countless mosses and ferns cling- 
ing to each crevice and seam where a foot- 
hold can be secured, together with the mil- 
lions of flowers of every hue ; where the sun's 
rays are sifted through countless objects on 
their way to the silvery, sparkling stream 
below, with its miniature cascades and ed- 
dies. We say imagine all these things, and 
then you will only have a faint outline of 
the wild and romantic, picturesque and 
glorious American Fork Canyon. 

Proceeding on up, up, around sharp 
crags, under the very overhanging moun- 
tains, we pass " Lion Rock " on the right, 
and " Telescope Peak " on the left. In the 
top of the latter is a round aperture, 
through which the sky beyond can be 
plainly seen; this hole is called the " Dev- 
il's Eye." 

About three miles from the mouth of the 
canyon, on the left, we come to Hanging 
Rock. (See illustration page 15.) Close 
above, on the same side, is a very large 
spring, and almost immediately opposite 
"Sled-runner Curve;" — an inverted vein of 
rock in the side of the perpendicular clifl^", 
resembling a sled-runner — possibly this is 
the Devil's sled-runner ; who knows ? Along 



98 



crofutt's new overland tourist. 



here the rock seams are badly mixed, 
and run at all angles— horizontal, lon- 
gitudinal and "through other." Haif- 
a-mile farther we come to "Kainbow 
Cliff," on the right ; opposite, a narrow 
peak rises sharp, like a knife-blade, 
300 ft. ; a little farther on to the right, 
comes in the South Fork, on which are 
several saw mills. Keepingto tl e left, 
and soon after passing the SouthFork 
a look back down this wonderful canon 
affords one of the grandest of views; 
we cannot describe it, but will have it 
engraved for fiiture volumes. One 
mile farther, and the train stops at the 
end of the track, at 

Deer Creek. — Near this station the 
hills are bare of trees, but covered 
with shrubs of different kinds, sage 
and moss predominating; the gulches 
and ravines bear stunted pine and 
aspen trees. The chief businessof this 
road was in connection with the mines 
above, among which are the Smelter's 
Sultana, Wild Dutchman, Treasure, 



and Pittsburgh. The Miller Smelting 
Works are four miles farther up and 
the mines seven. 

0])posite the station, in a cosy little 
nook, is located the Mountain Glen 
House, where the tourist will find his 
wants anticii^ated, and plans can be 
matured for a ramble over the moun- 
tain peaks ; and there are a number of 
little tours that can be made from this 
point each day that will well pay for a 
week's time devoted to this locality. 

When returning to the valley, then 
it is that the view is most grand, and 
the ride one beyond the powers of 
man with his be^t goose-quill to de- 
scribe. Make the tour of the Ameri- 
can Fork, and our word for it, it will 
live in pleasant memory while the sun 
of life descends upon a ripe old age. 

At American Fork station we again 
enter the cars on the Utah Southern, 
and start once more for the south. 
Rolling along three miles brings our 
train to 




DONNER LAKE BOATING PARTY. 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



99 




F.jREST VIEW — THE FOOT HILLS OF CALIFORNIA. 



Pleasakt Grove — properly named. 
In early days it was known as "Battle 
Creek " — so-called from a fight the early 
settlers once had here with the Utes. It is 
a thriving place of 1,000 inhabitants, and 
like all other Mormon towns, is surrounded 
with orchards and gardens of fruit, with 
water flowing through every street. Herds 
of cattle are now to be seen grazing on the 
surrounding hills. 

Eleven miles around, on the rim of the 
basin, across some sage and some well- 
cultivated land, our train stops at 

Provo — TJiis is a regularly incorporated 
city, with all the requisite municipal offi- 
cers ; is also the county seat of Utah county, 
which was first settled in 1849. 

Provo is 48 miles south of Salt Lake 
City, at the mouth of Provo Canyon, and 
on the east bank of Utah Lake, and con- 
tains an increasing population of 4,000. 
This place has several fine hotels, chief of 
which is the Excelsior House. 



The court-house and public buildings of 
ihe city are very good, and all kinds of 
business is represented here. The princi- 
pal manufactories are the Provo Woolen 
Mills, tliree flour and three saw mills. 

Provo River, which is formed by nu- 
merous small streams, to the eastward, af- 
fords the best water power of any stream 
in Utah. 

The woolen mill is a noted feature of 
the city; the buildings number four, are 
built of stone,, four stories high, and cost, 
complete, ready for business, $210,000. 
There are in the mill four "mules " with 
3,240 spindles, machinery for carding, 
dyeing and preparing 2,000 pounds of 
wool per day, and 215 looms, which turn 
out superior fabrics, in amount exceeding 
1200,000 per annum. 

The Mormons have a very capacious 
tabernacle, and the Methodists a fine 
church, and schools are ample. The Brig- 
ham Young Academy is located here. 



100 



CKOFUTt's new overland TOUUIST 



which was amply endowed by presi- 
dent Brigham Young some years be- 
fore his death. A regular stage leaves 
for Pro vo Valley, 20 miles to eastward 
on the arrival of trains. 

Utah Lake— is a body of fresh water, 
30 miles long and 6 miles wide ; is fed 
by Provo river, American Fork, Span- 
ish Fork, Hobble, Salt and Peteetweet 
creeks, having its outlet through Jor- 
dan river, which runs north and emp- 
ties into Great Salt Lake. Utah Lake 
abounds in trout, mullet and chubs. 

Passing along through a well culti- 
vated section of country, for five 
miles, we arrive at 

Springville— This place was named 
from a warni spring which flows from 
Hobble Canon, above the town. Pop. 
1.500. The water from this spring is 
utilized to run a flouring mill, where- 
by the mill is enabled to run all sea- 
sons of the year. So much for a hot 
spring. In Pleasant Valley, 50 miles 
east,are located vast beds of coal, said 
to be of the best coking quality, large 
quantities of which are used at the 
various smelting works in Utah, and 



Butter and clioese are quite a specialty 
with many of the citizens; on the table- 
lands vineyards are numerous, and wine is 
made to some extent; wheat is also a good 
crop. Duck shooting is said to be exceed- 
ingly fine, and trout are found in great num- 
bers in all the mountain streams, as well 
as in the lake. 

Continuing on through rich farm land, 
eight miles brings our train to 

Payson — This is an incorporated city of 
about 2,200 po|)ulution, situated to the left 
of the road, and near the southern end of 
Utah Lake. The people appear to be well- 
to-do, and do not trouble themselves much 
about the " war in Europe," or the " Chi- 
nese question." Large quantities of ore 
are hauled here for shipment to the smelt- 
ing furnaces at Sandy and other places. 

Three miles further, and two and a half 
miles eastward, is a beautiful little place 
called Spring Lake Villa, nestling cosily 
in beside ihe mountain and a little lakelet 
of similar name. This villa is noted for 
its abundant and superior fruit of various 
kinds, where is located a large canning 
establishment. 

Five miles further, tlirough less valuable 




for domestic puri>oses in Salt Lake j^^^^^ ^^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^ ^j^^ nofthward, and we 
City and adjoining towns. In 18*8 the ; ^^^..^.^ ^^ 

Utah & Pleasant Valley E'y Co. was SANXAQUix-which is a very important 

" about 
as- 
ave 
west- 
Here, too, will be found stage 
for tlie ditlerent mining towns and 
camps. To Goshen the distance is six 
miles; Diamond City, 13 miles; Silver 
City, 16 miles; and Eureka, 21 miles. 

The Tiutic district furnished at this sta- 
tion, in 1879, 20,000,000 pounds of hema- 
tite iron ore for shipment to the different 
sine", ting furnaces to the northward, for a 
flux in the manipulation of ores. 

York — is 75 miles from Salt Lake 
City, and is a station of very little 
importance, four miles from Santa- 
qin. AfeAv miles further, to the right 
are the Hot Springs in which were 
found the bodies of the Aiken party 
who were murdered in 1857. 

To the south, rises Mount Nebo, 
with his cap of snow, to an altitude of 
12,000 feet. 

Mono— To the left, is a small ham- 
let. 

The Juab Valley commences at 
York, averages about three miles in 



with the Colorado system of narrow 
gauge roads, forming another through 
linelrom Salt Lake Valley eastward. 
Grading is being done northward 
from Springville, parallel with the 
Utah Southern, to Salt Lake City, 
and everything that money and mus- 
cle can do is being done to complete 
the road in 1883. 

Hobble Creek Canon, just east ot 
Springville, was so named by the first 
Mormons in 1817, who found there a 
set of old Spanish hobbles. 

Rolling along for five miles further 
through a well-cultivated land, wc 

arrive at 
Spanish Fork— a village of 1,800 pop- 

ulat7ion, most of whom are engaged in 
agricultural and pasioral pursuits. 
The town is to the left of the road on 
the banks of the Spanish Fork River. 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



101 




YO-SEMITE FALLS, 2/i;!4 FEET FALL, YC)-SEMITE VALLEY. 



width, and is 36 miles in lengfth, gener- 
ally good land and well cultivated. 

Nephi — Is a city of 2,000 population, 
from which stages run regularly to 
San Pete, 80 miles, and Kanab, 195 
miles, passing through many small 
villages and mining camps. 

Juab— is an eating station. 30 miles 
from York. Here a large amount of 
freight is shipped on wagons for the 
villages to the eastward, and stages 
leave regularly for Sipio, 22 miles; Fil- 
more,4:7 miles, and Corn Ci'eek,GO miles 

Juab is the end of the Utah South- 
ern, and the commencement of its 
Extension. 

Soon after leaving Juab— named for 
the county of Juab — we cross Chicken 
Creek, and in about three miles come 
to the Sevier Elver, where the hills 
come close together,forming a canyon 

The Sevier is a crooked, muddy, 
sluggish stream, down which the road 
is built through a worthless country 
crossing it often for 52 miles, to Des- 



eret, a station situated a few miles 
east of the Sevier River, which is here 
dammed for irrigating purposes. 

Leaving Deseret — where breakfast is 
served going north — we pass over a 
broad, level stretch of desert country, 
traversed by great numbers of irrigat- 
ing ditches, from the dam aforesaid, 
but the waters are so strong and the 
soil so impregnated with alkali, that 
the aforesaid wilderness fails to blos- 
som, except with sage and grease- 
wood. The road crosses the edge of 
Sevier Lake, on a raised track, the salt 
deposits of which are very strong. 
The scenery alongthis roadjbelow the 
Sevier canyon, is not veiT striking — 
unless one is anxious to be struck. 

MiLFORD — is reached, 69 miles from 
Deseret and 226 miles south from Salt 
Lake City. It is on Beaver Elver, pop- 
ulation about 200, the end of the Utah 
Southern Eailroad, from which large 
quantities of freight are shipped for 
Southern Utah. Stages run to Miners- 



102 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



ville, IG miles; Marysville. 16 miles; 
Beaver, 37 miles; Silver Keef,96 miles; 
St. Geor.^o, 114 miles, and Pioche, 120 
miles. At" Milford is located one quartz 
mill and one smeltint? furnace. To the 
westward, IG miles, by a branch rail- 
road is 

Frisco— a mining town of about 1 000 
population, near the celebrated Horn 
Silver Mine. The "Frisco mines" are 
said to be exceedingly rich in silver 
and lead. The ores are galena, yield- 
ing from $15 to $1,500 per ton of silver, 
and from 20 to 40 per centum of lead. 
Heavy investments of eastern capital 
have been made in these mines, and 
vigorous efforts are making to soor 
work them by the latest and most im- 
proved methods. The Horn Silver, 
Carbonate and Mountain Queen are 
the best known and developed mines. 

Returning^to Zion we will take a run 
over the 

UtJili Western Railroad. 

This road is a late acquisition of the 
Union Pacific Railway Co. It is a three 
foot narrow gauge, commenced in 1874, 
and was completed 12 miles during 
the year. In 1875 about 13 miles more 
were finished, and in 1877 it was ex- 
tended to within two miles of Stock- 
ton, 37.5 miles from Salt Lake City. 

The depot in Salt Lake City is' lo- 
cated one-half mile Avest of the Utah 
Central, on the same street. 

The route is due west, crossing the 
Jordan River the first mile, about half 
a mile south of the wagon road bridge, 
thence 12 miles to the Hot Springs, at 
the northeast point of the Oquirrh 
Mountains. This 12 miles is built 
across the level bottom land, the ma- 
jor portion of which is covered with 
sage-brush and greasewood, with an 
occasional patch of "bunch" and alka- 
li grasses. The soil in most parts is a 
black vegetable mold with a mixture 
of fine sand. Some sand beds are no- 
ticeable, and near the Hot Springs a 
deposit of alkali with yellow clay. 

The length of this land belt is about 
50 miles, of which the first 15 will av- 
erage ten miles wide, the balance av- 
eraging five miles wide, and extend- 
ing south to Utah Lake, and when 
properly irrigated— as we have here- 
tofore noted, a plan now being car- 
ried out for so doing— it will be as pro- 
ductive as the same number of acres 



in the valley of the famous River Nile, 
in Egypt. Herds of cattle and sheep 
now roam over these bottom lands, 
as well as jack rabbits by the legion. 

Near the hot springs, on the left, no- 
ticeable from the amount of steam ris- 
ing and the brown burned appear- 
ance of the ground, are some comfort- 
able little farm-houses, and a few well 
a]^pearing farms. The hot springs spo- 
ken of are fresh and produce a large 
creek of water. Near,are several store 
houses, and a place called Millstone, 
from the fact that at this point the first 
millstones were quarried in the Terri- 
tory. There are no accommodations, 
at present, near, for tourists to stop 
over. Proceeding along, around the 
side of the mountain, ovir train gradu- 
ally approaches the lake, and five 
miles from Millstone we are at 

Black Rock — This station is just af- 
ter passing a high rocky cliff on the 
right, and derives its name from a 
black-looking rock sitting out in the 
lake 300 feet distant, and 50 feet high. 
Near the station is Lion's Head Rock, 
the highest cliff is known as "Ob- 
servation Point," so named from the 
unobstructed view which can bo had 
from its summit. Antelope, or Church 
Island, to the northeast,is 14 miles dis- 
taat,Kimbairs,22 ; Goose Creek Moun- 
tains, northwest 100; West Mountain, 
west 15; Oquirrh, close to the south, 
while the view to the southwest ex- 
tends to the great rim of the basin, 17 
miles distant. On Church Island large 
herds of cattle range, and some mines 
of gold, slate, and copper have been 
discovered. On Carringtonlsland, op- 
posite BlackRock,a slate mine of good 
quality has been discovered, which 
has been traced 4,500 ft. Opposite the 
station, away up in the side of the 
mountain, is the 

"Giant's Cave— an opening extend- 
ing several hundred ft. into the moun- 
tain side, with a ceiling ranging in 
heiqht from 10 to 75 feet, from which 
hang stalactites of great beauty and 
In-iliiancv. Remains of some of the an- 
cient tribes of Indians, it is said, are 
still to be found scattered around the 
floor of the cave. The presence of 
these remains is explained by a tradi- 
tion among the Indians to the effect 
that "mnnV hundred yeai's ago, two 
tribes of Indians were at war with each 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



103 



other, and that the weaker j)arty was 
forced to take refuge in the cave, but 
were followed by the enemy, who 
closed the entrance with huge bould- 
ers, forming an impenetrable barrier 
to their escape" — and thus their place 
of refuge became their grave. 

Leaving Black Rock, our train skirts 
the lake for a distance of one mile and 
stops at 

Garfield. — Of all the bathing places 
in and about Salt Lake, this is the best. 
The veteran Cap. Douri's — who by the 
way has become quite a "land-lubber" 
— is located here, having dismantled 
his steamer. Gen. Garfield, and con- 
verted it into a first-class floating ho- 
tel. To take a run outfrom SaltLake 
City, secure a state-room on the Gar- 
field, sleep on the bosom of the "Dead 
Sea," and with the "Captain's gig" ex- 
plore its mysteries, bathe in its won- 
derful waters, is one of the luxuries 
that the traveler visiting Utah should 
never miss. In fact it is worth a long 
journey to enjoy. Baron von Hum- 
boldt, in speaking of the marvelous 
grandeur with which this inland sea 
abounds, said : "Here is the beauty 
and grandeur of Como and Killarney 
combined." 

Lake Point— is two miles from Gar- 
field, is another bathing place, where 
the traveler will find fair accommoda- 
tions at the "Short Branch Hotel." 

Black Eock, Garfield, and Lake 
Point, are in summer great resorts for 
pic-nic parties from Zion, who come 
out, take a. trip over the lake, have a 
swim and a ramble up the mountains, 
"make a day of it," and return to the 
city in the evening. 

Game in the mountains and on the 
plains, such as deer, antelope, bears 
and smaller game, are to be had for 
the necessary effort; ducks are abun- 
dant six miles to the eastward, and 
fish, — narvj one. 

The mountains are about 1,000 feet 
above the road, have rounded peaks, 
covered with small trees, in places, 
sage and grass in others, and large 
timber in the inaccessible gulches and 
ravines, near the summit. 

Leaving the Point, our course is 
more to the southward, along the side 
of the lake, by a few well-cultivated 
farms, irrigated by water fi'om the 
mountain on the left. 



Turning more to the left, and draw- 
ing away from the lake, the road fol- 
lows along a few miles from the base of 
the mountains, beside which is located 
the small Mormon village of "E. T. Ci- 
ty"— named after E. T. jjensen, one of 
the early settlers. Four and a half 
miles from the "Point" comes the 

Half-WayHouse— near,is a flouring, 
and woolen mill. On the opposite side 
of the valley, west, is tlie town of 
Grantsville, eight miles distant. It 
lies in one of the richest agricultural 
sections of the state ; population, 2, 000. 
In the background is the West Moun- 
tain Range, which rears its peaks full 
2,000 ft. above the town, and in which 
are located some very rich mines of 
silver. Beyond these mountains is 
Skull Yalley — so named for an Indian 
fight which once occurred there, after 
which the ground was left covered 
with bones. Passing on, to the left, 
note the waterlines on the side of the 
mountain. 

Tooele— is six miles from the last, 
and is the nearest station to the thriv- 
ing town of Tooele, which is situated 
to the left about two miles, beside the 
mountain. The principal business of 
the citizens is agricvUture and fruit 
raising. It is considered the best fruit 
and vegetable districtin the Territory. 

Tooele is the county seat of Tooele 
county ;populationabout2, 500. Along 
the base of the mountain the land is ir- 
rigated from little springs and creeks 
in the mountain gorges, the waters of 
which seldom find their way to the lake 
below. About 10 miles over the moun- 
tain, to the southeast, is located Bing- 
ham Citi^ Leaving Tooele, sage 
small cedars, bunch-grass and herds 
of stock abound. 

The road is on a high plateau, curv- 
ing with the mountain more to the 
westward, and some miles below the 
the lower end of the lake. As we near 
the lower poi'tion to the great valley, 
which lays on our right, the land rises, 
rim-like, and a few hundred yards be- 
low the end of the track, rises 500 feet, 
completely locking in the valley by a 
mountain range or semi-circle ex- 
tending in a great arcli from Oquirrh 
Range on the east, to meet the range 
on the west, one great bend, full five 
miles in curvature. Here, at the base 
of this rim, terminates the railroad. 



104 



CEOFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST. 






" The Grand " Yellowstone Park 

On the south side of this rim,wliich, on 
tlie top, is less than one-half a mile in 
Avidth, is located the city of 

Stockton — two miles distant from 
the end of the railroad. To reach 
Stockton by rail a 1000-foot tunnel 
must be drove through this rim, ex- 
clusive of approaches. 

Stockton io now reached by stage, 
which also extends its route to Dry 
Canyon, and the Ophir mining dis- 



tricts to the south and west. Dis- 
tances from Stockton to Ophir, 
southeast, 10 miles; toDry Can- 
von, southeast, 12 miles; to Salt 
Lake City, 39.5 miles. 

Stockton is in Tooele county, in 
the northeastcorner of Eush Val- 
ley, andabout one-half mile east 
of Rush Lake — a sheet of fresh 
water two miles long and half 
mile wide. The town contains* 
ihree smelting furnaces, several 
stores, hotels, and about 80 dwell- 
ings, with a ])opulation — by tak- 
ing in the surroundings — of GOO. 
The Waterman Furnace is close 
in the eastern edge of the town; 
the Jacob's Smelter about half a 
mile west, at the head of the lake, 
and the Chicago Smelter about 
one mile southwest, on the east- 
'■rn bank of the lake. The ores 
'•ome from the several mining 
districts in the vicinity. 

Eush Valley is one of the class 
of "valleys so often found in the 
Salt Lake and Nevada Basins- 
only varying in size. This is 10 
miles in length and about three 
iu width— land-locked, surround- 
(m1 by mountain i-anges, with a 
'ake in the center and no visible 
outlet. 

New Eailways. — "We should 
judge from present appearances 
that all Utah will sooube"riding 
on a rail," as the "boom" for rail- 
road building struck the terri- 
tory in 1881. From the various 
documents on file Avith the Audi- 
tor of the Territory, it would seem 
tliat every canyon and water- 
course would be paralleled with 
arail track, and there would hard- 
ly be a "sheep ranch" without 
a railway station. It is said 
the Union Pacific Eailway Com- 
pany will construct 1000 miles 
of track at an early day, and that 
they arc now "throwing dirt" in sev- 
eral places. July 21, 1881, the Denver 
and Eio Grande Western Eailway Co. 
filed on routes aggregating 2,370 miles. 
This new company is virtually the 
same as the Denver & Eio Grande of 
Colorado, and it is designed to con- 
nect the two lines at an early day. At 
this time work is being pushed vigor- 
ously, both from the east and west. 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



105 



Eeturning to Salt Lake, " change 
cars" for Ogden, and again we take a 
look at the Great Overland trains. 
But we cannot think of neglecting to 
take a tri^:) over the 

Utah & BiTortheru Branch 

tJnion Pacific Railway. 

(IDAHO DIVISION.) 

W. B. Doddridge Ogden, Supt. 

E. Blickensderfer, Pocatello, Idaho, Dio. Supt. 

This road is a three-foot narrow 
gauge, commenced March 29th, 1872, 
and extended at difTerent times to 
Franklin, 78 miles, in 1874. In the 
spring of 1878 work was again com- 
menced and the road completed 181 
)niles to Blackfoot, on Snake River, 
ten miles above old Fort Hall, and 
during the year 1879 to Eeaver Canyon, 
93 miles, 274 miles from Ogden. Work 
has continued since, and the trains 
are now (Jan., 1883,) fully equipped 
with palace cars and all modern im- 
provements, running to Deer Lodge, 
442 miles from Ogden. 

The " Oregon Short Line," noted 
on page 76, when completed will con- 
nect with this road at Pocatello, 158 
miles north from Ogden. Another 
branch has been surveyed and will 
leave this road at Blackfoot and phss 
through Idaho via the Wood River 
Mines to Oregon. 

Trains leave Ogden opposite the 
Union Depot to the eastward and 
skirt the western edge of the city, 
across rich, broad, and well-cultiva- 
ted fields, orchards and gardens, with 
the Wasatch Mountains towering to 
the right. 

From Ogden depot it is five miles 
to Haerisville, an unimportant sta- 
tion, from which it is four miles to 
Hot Springs, where will be found a 
large hotel and extensive bathing 
accommodations. Here is one of the 
many hot springs which abound in 
the Great Salt Lake and Nevada 
basins. In cold Aveather it sends up 
a dense cloud of vapor, which is visi- 
ble a long distance. It is strongly 
impregnated with sulphur and other 
mineral substances, and the odor 
arising is very strong, and by no 
means pleasant for some people to 
inhale. This spring is close on the 
right of the road, and besides the 
steam continually arising from it, is 



marked by the red-burnt soil, much re- 
sembling a yard, where hides are tanned. 

From the cars an occasional glimps of 
Salt Lake can be obtained, with its nu- 
merous islands, lifting their peaks far 
iar above the briny waters. The views 
will be very imperfect; but as we near 
Promontory Point, and after leaving that 
place, excellent views can be obtained. 
On the left, only a few hundred yards 
away, can be seen the track of the Cen- 
tral Pacific — and near, the unimportant 
station of Bonneville on that road. Near 
are some fine farming lands, ^vhich yield 
large crops of wheat, barley and corn. 

With the rugged mountains on our right 
and the waters of the lake seen at times 
on our left, we find objects of interest con-^ 
tinually rising around us Far up the 
sides of the mountain, stretching along in 
one unbroken line, save where it is sun- 
dered by canyons, gulches, and ravines, is 
the old water-mai-k of the ancient lake, 
showing that at one time this lake was a 
mighty sea, washing the mounta.u sides sev- 
eral hundred feet above us. The ohl water- 
line is no creation of the imagination, but 
a broad bench, whereupon the well-worn 
rocks, the rounded pebbles, and marine 
shells still attest the fact that on^^e the wa- 
teis of the lake washed this broad upland. 
Beneath the highest and largest bench, at 
various places, may be seen two others, at 
about equal distances apart, showing that 
the waters of the lake have had three dif- 
ferent altitudes before they reached their 
present level. 

We are gradually rising up on to a high 
bench and will continue along near the 
base of the mountains for the next thirty 
miles. In places the view will be giaud. 
The Great Lake at the southwest wUh its 
numerous islands in the distance, the well- 
cultivated fields in the foreground, together 
with the orchards and rippling rills from 
the mountain springs, which we cross every 
few minutes, make a beautiful picture; 
then back of all, on the cast, rises the Wa- 
satch, peak upon ])eak, towering to the 
skies. 

From the last station it is 15 miles to 

WiLLARD — Th s is a quiet Mormon town 
of 700 inhabitants, and contains some fine 
buildings, but the greater portion are built 
of logs and adobe, yet neat and cosy. Most 
of the fences are of small willows inter- 
woven through large willow stakes stuck 
in the ground. The mountains near this 
town present indications which would as. 



106 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 




ENTERING THE PALISjVDES OF THE HUMBOLDT. 



sure the " prospector " that they were rich 
in various minerals. Strong evidences also 
exist of the great volcanic upheaval which 
ouce lit up this countrj^ with its lurid tires, 
most effectualy demolishing many philo- 
sophical theories, leaving their origina- 
uators to study nature more and books 
less. 

Near the city, in the first range of hills, 
is the crater of an extinct volcano, which 
covers several acres. The masses of lava 
laying around, its bleak, barren, and deso- 
late appearance would seem to indicate that, 
comparatively speaking, not many yeais 
had elapsed since it was in active operation. 

Leaving Willard, our course is more to 
the left, with broad fields and some fine 
dwellings; then a strip of sage and alkali; 
and seven miles north we reach 

Brighajm — This is the county seat of 
Box Elder county, situated near the mouth 
of Box Elder and Wellsville Canyon. 
Like Willard, it nestles close under the 
•shadow of the "Wasatch, and is embowered 



in fruit trees. Population, 1,800. The 
buildings are mostly of adobe. A thriving 
trade and rapidly increasing population 
attest the importance of the place. The 
public buildings include a court-house and 
tabernacle, two hotels, and no saloons. 

From Brigham our course is more to 
the left, following around the great arc of 
the mountains, as well as the old Montana 
stage road. 

Call's Foke — is 7 miles from Brig- 
ham, and is a little collection of houses, 
close in beside the mountain on the right. 
All around this mountain base are, at 
intervals, springs— some are cold and some 
are very hot-water — well-cultivated fields 
and alkali beds, little lakes, and sage-brush 
knolls, rich soil and large crops; then 
occur barren waste and nary shrub. 

Two and a half miles further is 

HoNKYViLLE — Ah! here we have it ! a 
dozen stone and adobe houses on a 
sage-brush honey. Bear River and valley 
is now on the left, as is also the city of 



CROFUTT S NEW OVKIJJ.AXJ) TOURIST 



107 



Corinnc, about six miles distant to tlie 
southwest. 

"When this road was first built, a track 
extended to Corinne, which has in later 
years been taken up and abandoned, the 
whif! I will never tell you. 

Deweyville is five miles further, 
around which, are some good farms and a 
gristmill. Curving around the point of 
the mountain and heading for the north, 
up Bear Valley, the grade increases ; sage 
is the rule, pines and cedars appear in the 
mountain gorges, and up we climb. To 
the west on the opposite side of Bear River, 
about five miles above the station, is lo- 
cated a village of Shoshone Indians, about 
100 in number. Their tepees — lodges- can 
be plainly seen. These Indians took up 
this land in 1874, under the pre-emption 
laws of the United States, and abandoned 
their tribal relations. They own some 
large herds of cattle and bauds of horses, 
and are very quiet and peaceably disposed. 

Passing on up a hea\y grade through 
deep cuts for six miles and we are at 

Colli N8TOX — formerly Hamptons, a 
side track station of no importance to 
the tourist 

.Just before reaching this station, the 
road cuts through a spur of the mountain 
that juts out to the westward into the val- 
ley, leaving a high, isolated peak. Let us 
climb this peak and take a look. To the 
north, six miles the Bear River canyons 
through a low spur of the Wasatch which 
reaches away to the northwest. To the 
west of this spur lies the Malad Valley, 
and Mai ad River; the latter and the Bear 
come close together into the valley, imme- 
diately to the w^est of where we stand ; then 
flow close together down the valley to the 
south parallel lor ten miles before they 
unite, in some places not more than 20 
feet apart. To the west of this valley rise 
the long range of the Malad Mountains, 
which, commencing near Corinne, runs 
nearly north to opposite this point, and 
then bears away to the northwest. 

Only a small portion of the lands in the 
Bear or Malad valleys are cultivated ; 
cattle and sheep are plenty. Leaving 
Collinston, our road is up a 100 foot 
grade, curving around to raise the spur 
of the Wasatch above alluded to, through 
w^hich Bear River canyons a few miles to 
the northward. Finally the 

SuMMiT — is reached and passed four 
miles from Colliuston and w<i cun^e to the 
east and then to the south, around the nar- 



row spur alluded to, which separated Bear 
Valley from Cache Valley. 

From the Summit we have been rapidly 
descending into Cache Valley, which is on 
our left, and is one of the most productive 
in Utah Territory. The valley heads in tha 
AVasatch Mountains, northeast of Ogden, 
and is 40 miles long with an average 
width of six miles, to where it intersects 
Marsh Valley on the north, five miles dis- 
tant. The Logan River runs through the 
lower portion of this valley, and is com- 
posed of the Little Bear, Blacksmith Fork, 
and Logan creeks, making a stream of 
ample volume to irrigate all the land in 
the valley, much of which is yet open for 
pre-emption. 

In an ordinary season the shipments 
from this valley average 500 car-loads of 
wheat, 200 car-loads of oats, and 100 car- 
loads of potatoes, most of which go to 
California. Wheat often yields 50 bushels 
to the acre. 

Mendon — is the first station from the 
Summit, 5.5 miles distant, on the west side 
of the valle}', and contains about '00 
population. 

From Mendon our course is due east to 
Logan, across the valley, which runs north 
and south, but before we start, let us note 
the towns situated on the arc, around the 
upper portion of the valley. The first is 
Wellsville, six miles south, on the west 
side, population 1,800. Paradise comes 
next, wiih a population of 500. Continu- 
ing around to the east and then north, is 
Hyrum, population 1,400. Next comes 
Millville, population 600 ; and then Provi- 
dence, population 550. This latter village 
is the first south of Logan. 

Looking north from Mendon, northeast 
of the point where we crossed the ridge at 
Summit, and eight miles from Mendon, is 
located the village of Newton, population 
300; three miles further is Clarkston, pop- 
ulation 500; next six miles is Weston, pop- 
ulation 500 ; next is Clifton, ten miles, pop- 
ulation 300 ; then Oxford, seven miles, pop- 
ulation 250. These are all Mormon vil- 
lages, are all surrounded with well-culti- 
vated lands, orchards, vines and gardens, 
with the sparkling waters from the adjoin- 
ing mountains rippling through all the 
streets, fields, gardens and lands, and with 
crops and fruits of all kinds abundant; and, 
taking them all in all, they are prosperous 
and thriving communities, in which each, 
one of tile community seems to strives to ad- 
vance the good of all. They are an in- 



lOS 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



dustrious, hard-workiug, seif-reliant and 
apparently contented people, always living 
within their means. The population of the 
valley is upwards of 15,000. 

Leaving Mendou to cross the valley, we 
pass through a i'arm of 9,043 acres, upon 
.which were 80 miles of fencing, houses and 
out buildings, which were deeded by Pres- 
ident Brigham Young, just before his 
death, to trustees, in trust to endow a col- 
lege at Logan City, to be called "Brigham 
Young College." The trustees are leasing 
the lauds — ot which there are no better lu 
the Tei'ritory — for the purpose of creating 
a fund to carry out the bequest. These 
lands are the most valuable in tlie Terri- 
tory. Crossing Logan River, our train 
stojjs at the city of 

LOGAX — This city is the county seat of 
Cache county, situated on the east side of 
Cache Valley, just below the mouth of 
Logan Canyon. It is the largest place in 
the valley — containing a population of 
about 3,000, most of whom are engaged 
in agricultural and pastoral pursuits. 
Water runs through the streets from the 
mountains and orchards; gardens, fruits 
and tlowers abound. 

The city contains two flouring mills, a 
woolen mill, the railroad machine and re- 
pair shops, one hotel — the Logan House — 
anil a branch of the Z. C. ]\I. L, besides 
various small mechanical establishments. 
The new Tabernacle is of cut stone, and 
seats 2,500 people. 

On the east side of the city, a round 
plateau rises 300 feet above the streets, pro- 
jecting out from the average front of the 
mountain range 2,000 feet, into the valley. 
Tliis plateau is about 500 feet in width, 
and shaped like the end of a monster canal 
boat, bottom upwards. Standing on the 
point, and looking west, the city is close 
at our feet, the i. road valley beyond, and 
in the distance the spur of the Wasatch, 
over which we came from Bear Valley. 
To the right and left, the valley is spread 
out in all its beauty, and no "less than 14 
towns and villages are in sight, surrounded 
with mountain ranges, which rise, range 
upon range, and peak ovcrtooping peak, 
the highest of which are robed in a per- 
petual mantle of snow. The view is one 
of the most beautiful that one could con- 
ceive. 

Upon this plateau, the Mormon people 
who reside in Cache and the lour adjoin- 
ing counties, have elected to build a mag- 
.niticent temple, in which to conduct the 



rites and ordinances of the Mormon 
church. The main building will be of 
slate stone, 171 feet long, 95 feet wide, 
and 86 feet hign, with a grand tower 144 
feet high from base to pinnacle, and will 
cost, when completed, in about four j'ears, 
$450,000 to $500,000. 

Around the outer rim of the ])lateau, a 
double row of trees have been set out, and 
the water from the mountain above con- 
ducted in little ditches all around and over 
the entire grounds. 

Leaving Logan, our road runs north, 
along the base of the Wasatch Mountains 
— having made a great horse-shoe curve 
from the summit. 

From Logan it is five miles to 

Hyde Park Station— The town of 
Hyde Park is to the right, close beside the 
mountain, one mile distant, and contains 
a jiopulation of about 800. 

Two mile further, and after crossing 
Summit Creek, which is lined with cotton- 
wood trees, comes 

Smithpield— This is a town of 1,200 
population, a short distance to the right of 
the road. Six miles further is 

Richmond — another town of 1,200 
people, on the right, beside the mountain. 

These towns are all alike in beauty of sur- 
roundings, and the description of one is a 
description of all. They all have water 
running thiough the streets, orchards and 
gardens, and are all laid out with wide 
streets, by the side of which are rows of 
trees and good walks. 

Lewistown — is another small village of 
400 people, situated on the opposite side of 
the valley, four miles distant. 

Nine miles further and we reach 
the station for 

Fkanklin — This town is one mile north 
of the line, between Utah and Idaho, and, 
consequently, is in Idaho Teiritory; popu- 
lation about 400. It is situated in Cache 
Valley, Oneida county, Idaho, on Chubb 
Creek about one mile from the station to 
the northeast, at the base of the Wasatch 
Mountains. 

The county seat of Oneida county is 
Malad City 40 miles due west. The vil- 
lages of Weston, Clarkston, Newton, Ox- 
ford, and Clifton— heretofore alluded to— 
are to the westward of Franklin, from ten 
to twenty miles. In Bear Valley, 30 miles 
east, over the mountains, are the towns of 
Paris, ]\[ontpelier and Bennington, aggre- 
gating a population of about 1,000. 

From Franklin, we turn westward and 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



lO'J 



cross C hubb and Worm Crceks,along which 
are some tine farming hinds ; pass through 
a number of deep cuts and tlnd Bear River 
on our left, far below our road, with narrow 
bottom lauds on each side. The road turns 
north and runs up on the east bank of the 
river a few miles where it crosses to the 
west and stops at a small side track called 

Battle Creek — twelve miles from 
Franklin. Soon after leaving the station 
the road turns west up Connor's Canyon, 
where, in the winter of 18G3-4, Gen. Connor 
had his celebrated tight with the Shoshone 
Indians. At the time of this tight there 
was two foot of snow on the ground, and 
the weather very cold. The Indians— >some 
hundreds — were hid in the Canyon amoni; 
the willows along the Creek, and in the 
cedars to the right along the bluffs. By a 
vigorous charge of the troops, the Indians, 
were completely overcome, and with tc\\ 
exceptions, none were left alive to tell llu 
tale. The bones of the dead are still to bu 
seen near the station. 

In ascending the Canyon the grade is 
heavy, deep cuts are numerous, sage bru'-h 
abounds, and the country is very broken, 
only adapted to stock raising. About 

Oxford — in Marsh Valley, eleven 
miles from Battle Creek, are a few well 
cultivated farms, and herds of cattle 
and sheep range around the bluffs. 

Swan Lake — is the next station, just be- 
low a small sheet of water of tlial name, 
in which sport, at certain seasons of the 
year, numbers of swans. The Malad 
Mountains border the valley on the west, 
beyond which is Malad Valley and river 
of same name, also Malad City, 20 miles 
distant. Pass on down the valley, north 
21 miles, we come to 

Akimo— a small town of perhaps fifty 
people. The famous Soda Springs of Idaho, 
are 30 miles east of this station, where are 
ample hotel accommodations for tourists, 
but the facilities for reaching them are 
limited, as there is no regular stage line; 
livery team must be procured at Arimo 
LeavingArimo alow cutin the mount 
ains about five miles distant to the north- 
east, marks the passage of Port Neuf River 
through Port Neuf Gap. The old stage 
road is on our right, along the base of the 
mountain. After crossing a number of 
small creeks, and 9 miles from Arimo 
come to Belle Marsh, on Port Neuf 
River, down wliich wo go 3G miles. 

Along this river are many peculiar rock 
formations. In places the rocks rise like a 



solid wall, from 20 to 100 feet from the 
ground in a line of uniform height for 
miles in extent, resembling huge fortifica- 
tions. In several places along the road 
there are two and sometimes three of these 
walls running parallell with each other. 
Proceeding down the river we come to 
"Robbers'^Roost" on the right, about four 
miles bei'ore reaching the next station. It 
is the point where the Montana stage rob- 
bery was committed in 1864 




EAGLE GATE. 

Port Neuf — once known as Black 
Rock, so named for the ridge of slate rock 
to be seen just east of the station. It 
is 12 miles tK) Pocatello and ten to 

Ross Fork. — This is a small station on 
lift river of the same name. The lands 
are mostly covered with sage brush, very 
rich, and with irrigation, water for which 
is abundant — could be made very produc- 
tive. Stock raising is about the only occu- 
pation the few settlers are engaged in. 

Game of all kinds abounds in the val- 
leys and in the mountains, while along 
the water courses, wild geese and ducks 
are legion. The streams, little and big, 
are full of fish, notably the trout, which 
are very abundant and bite with a snap 
that makes an old sportsman feel happy. 

Fruit, apples, peaches, pears, cherries, 
plums, currants, and, in fact, all kinds 
of fruit are raised by the Mormons, in 
this and adjacent valleys in great 
abundance. Although we are now in 
Idaho Territory, we shall speak of the 
chief towns and the routes to them in 
an other place. 

The direction of our road from this 
point is north; about three miles 
brings us to 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



Ill 



Blackfoot— named fox' the Black- 
foot Indians. It is situated on a 
broad, sase-covered plain, one mile 
north of Blackfoot Kiver, and two 
miles southeast from Snake Eiver, 
which is here marked by a dense 
growth of trees and willows. The 
place has about 2U0 population and 
some good stores and other buildings. 
Trains stop thirty minutes for meals 
—breakfast and supper. Stages leave 
Blackfoot for Challis daily— distance 
70 miles northwest, for old Ft. Hall, 10 
miles west ; new Ft. Hall, 8 miles east. 

EivEESiDE— is a side-track station 
on the bank of the Snake, 12 miles 
north from Blackfoot and 13 miles 
south of 

Eagle Rock — known by old-time 
pilgrims as Taylor's Bridge, at the 
crossing of Snake River. See illustra- 
tion opposite: both railroad and wagon 
bridge are shown, the old and the new. 

At Eagle Rock is located a railroad 
round-house and repair shops, sever- 
al stores, hotels, and a few comfort- 
able private dwellings of stockmen 
Avho make this place their headquar- 
ters. 

1 Crossing the river, just below the 
old bridge, 18 miles, brings us to 

Market Lane station^unimportant 
except as a shipping point for stock — 
.cattle and sheep. 

I The whole country, now, has a vol- 
Icanic appearance— valueless for agri- 
'cultural pur])Oses— but, in and along 
the base of the mountains, on each 
side from five to ten miles distant, 
the grasses are very good, and all 
kinds of stock do well. The " Three 
Tetons " are to be seen to the east- 
ward. They overlook the Yellow- 
stone National Park. 

Lava Siding— a small station, comes 
next in 10 miles, from which it is 11 
miles to 

Camas. — Freight in large quantities 
is shipped on wagons from Camas to 
jChallis— 60 miles west— and to the 
iSalraon River mines to the northwest 
|— 130 miles. Stages also leave daily 
for Salmon City. Camas is the near- 
icst point on the railroad to the Yel- 
jlowstone National Park. A wagon 
.road has been completed and stages 
put on the route. The distances are 
estimated by Col. Norris, Superin- 
tendent of the National Park, to be: 



— Camas to Henryis Lake, 60 miles ; 
Henry's Lake to Junction, 25 miles; 
Junction to Mammoth Hot Springs, 
45 miles — making 130 miles— which in- 
cludes quite a tour of the Park, en 
route. (See Annex No. 20.) 

Rolling on through sage brush and 
barren wastes of volcanic deposites, 
w^e pass Dry Creek in 12 miles, and 
17 miles mox'e jeach 

Beaver Canon station— 274: miles 
north of Ogden. Passenger trains 
from the north and south meet here 
for dinner. 

The road for 12 miles up Beaver 
Canon to 

MoNiDA — is built through some 
beautiful scenery— to the summit of 
the Rocky Mountain Range, altitude 
6,869 feet— and is the first railroad to 
cross the "Rockies" from the westward 

The station of Monida is named for 
the two territories on the line between 
which it is located— Mon-ida, Monta- 
na, Idaho. The "Continental Divide," 
marked by a sign-board on the west 
side of the track, is just south of the 
station buildings. 

From Monida the descent is gradual 
down a little valley, a kind of natural 
road-way, with magnificent snow- 
capped mountain scenery in the dis- 
tance, and on all sides, herds of cattle, 
sheep and varieties of game. 

Williams— a small station, is 11 
miles, and six more to 

Spring Hill— A small imimportant 
station, situated in the southern por- 
tion of Red Rock Valley. This valley 
is nearly fifty miles in length, fol- 
lowed by our railroad the entire dis- 
tance, and also by the river of the 
same name. The valley is dotted at 
intervals with comfortable farm 
houses, many herds of cattle and 
sheep, varieties of game, and some 
well fenced and cultivated lands. 
Bordering the valley on the east are 
high rolling, grass covered bluffs, 
with some timber in the higher ra- 
vines, while on the west, extend as 
far as the eye can see the Continental 
Divide, rising from the valley, the 
lower portions timber-clad, peak up- 
on peak, to the region of perpetual 
snow, where their white heads stand 
forth as veterans of their kind, 
indicating age at least, if not respect- 
ability. » 



112 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



Ked Rock Station — Is reached after 
passing several small side-tracks 
twenty-three miles north from 
Spring Hill. About midway be- 
tween these two stations is the some- 
Avhat noted Red Rock, from whicli 
the valley, river and station derives 
its name. This rock' is a bold cliff, 
probably five hundred feet in height 
and half a mile long, projecting out 
into the valley from the eastward— 
of a bright red color, and can be seen 
for a distance, up and down the val- 
ley, for over twenty miles each way. 
The old wagon road follows this val- 
ley for the entire length, and this 
Rock was a well-known land mark for 
the "Pilgrims "in early days. 
. Grayling— Is a small station eleven 
miles from Red Rock Station, near 
the mouth of Beaver Head River, 
which comes in from the westward. 
Rolling down Ryan's Canon we 
come to a sign, "Soda Springs," on 
the right, near a small house. By 
looking up we discover a large stream 
of water i^ouring over the canon 
walls, which is here 200 feet in height. 
As our train stopped at a tank near 
by for water we commissioned our 
Pullman porter, a very accomodating 
boy by the way, although his name 
was Vinegar, to fill a flask. It Avas 
about blood-heat, butnot very strong 
with mineral. 

About eight miles from Greyling 
we come to Beaver Head Rock, at 
the gateway or mouth of the Canon, 
which here opens out into the Beaver 
Head Valley. This valley is nearly 
round, about twenty miles in 
diameter, in the centre of which, 
eight miles from Beaver Head Rock, 
is situated the new town of 

Dillon— Named for the President 
of the Union Pacific Railway. This 
is a busy place. Passenger trains 
going north stop for supper, and 
those for the south breakfast. Pres- 
ent population, about 500, but increas- 
ing rapidly. Large amounts of freight 
are shipped from this Station on 
wagons for the cities, towns, and 
mining camps to the eastward. The 
"Corinne" and "Valley" are the 
two principal hotels. Stages leave 
here daily on arrival of trains for the 
following i^laces : Salisbury, ^5 miles, 
fare, $8; Virginia City, GO miles, fare, 
$12 ; Helena, 120 miles, fare $24 ; Boze- 



inan, llO miles, fare, $24. 

The valley of the Beaver Head is 
nearly round, and not far from twen- 
ty miles in diameter, about one- 
fourth of which is under cultivation, 
producing good crops of small grains 
and vegetables ; the balance is 
occupied by stock raisers, some of 
whom have "large herds of cattle and 
sheep. The mountains on the west 
are high, many of the most elevated 
l>eaks covered with snow. This range 
is a continuation of the Continental 
Divide— heretofore noticed. 

Ten miles from Dillon the Railroad 
bears away more to the northwest. 
We pass several small stations while 
rolling along down a beautiful little 
valley for 31 miles to 

Melrose— This is a small place of 
several hundred population, situated 
on the Big Hole or Windom River, 
which comes down from the west. The 
town was named for Miss Melrose, 
daughter of Mrs. Blow, who keeps at 
this' place one of the best hotels in 
Montana, and, by the way, the Madam 
has an extraordinary history in con- 
nection with the hostile Indians who 
infested this country many years 
ago, one worthy to rank with the 
most heroic deeds of bravery record- 
ed of mothers in the annals of fron- 
tier life in this country, but we have 
not the space to record it. 

Bntte.— The first of the year, 1882, 
this was the "end of the track," but 
it is very hard for a guide-book to tell 
just where the terminus of any west- 
ern road will be next month, next 
week, or even to-morrow. Yes, and 
it is difficult for one to keep up with 
the older portions of our trans Miss- 
ouri country as everybody appears to 
be running a foot race to settle upon 
and gather up the numberless good 
things that are laying about all over 
this fair land. 

The new town of Butte is surround- 
ed by rich mineral ])rospeots, with a 
bright out-look for the future. Stages 
leave here daily for Boulder, 37 miles, 
fare $4.50; Jefferson, 50 miles, fare 
$6.00; Helena, 72 miles, fare $8.00; 
New Chicago, 76 miles, fare $9.50; 
Missoula, 132 miles, fare $15. 

Montana Territory— For many 
years was considered solely as a min- 
ing country, but there was never a 
greater mistake. That it does con- 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



113 



tain mines, of all kinds, in great 
numbers, rich, and inexhausti- 
ble is well known, but the agri- 
cultural and stock raising re- 
sources are immense. At one 
time it possessed excellent "pla- 
cer" mines and "gold diggings," 
but they have been to a great 
extent, worked out. Yet there 
are still some camps where good 
2)a y is being taken out, and many 
of the "old diggings" are being- 
worked over by the "heathen 
Chinee," and with good results. 
The mining is now mostly con- 
fined to quartz, some of which 
are of extraordinary richness. 

No section of our country at 
the pi'esent time offers greater 
inducements to the immigfi'aut 
and capitalist than Montana. 
Its population by the late cen- 
sus was 39,157, but the comple- 
tion of the railway to the heaxt 
of the territory, the low rates 
of transportation, quick transit, 
both passengers and freight, as 
compared with wagons and 
stage, will promote and assure 
rapid development. Aside from 
the mining advantages the val- 
leys of the Missouri, Madison, 
Gallatin, Yellowstone, and many 
other rivers, possess the very 
best of farming and grazinr;- 
lands in quantities sufficient to 
support millions of industrious 
people. 

Labor of all kinds is in de- 
mand, and the wages paid are 
double the amount, for the same 
services, current in the east. 

Game, of all kinds is abundant 
all over the territory, and for 
scenery, the equal of Montana is 
yet to he discovered. For arti- 
cles on the Yellowstone National 
Park, see Annex Nos. 26, 35, 3G, 
and illustrations on pages 21, 101, 
113,146, and the large double page 
plate of Yellowstone Falls, No. 8. 

Guides and all equipage ne- 
cessary to a thorough enjoyment 
of the trip to the Park can be 
procured at Virginia City, or in Lower 
Geyser Basin. Fare from A^irginia 
City to Lower Geyser Basin, $20. 
Parties of ten or more will be carried 




GIANTESS GEYSER IN ERtTPTION. 

from Virginia City to Lower Geyser 
Basin and return for $30 each. 

Again returning to Ogden, we take 
up the Overland Boute. 



114 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 




HON. LELAND STANFORD. 



Ex-Governor Lei and Stanford, President 
of the Central Pacific Railroad of Califor- 
nia, was born in the town of Watervliet, 
Albany county, N. Y., March 9, 1824. His 
ancestors were English, who settled in the 
Valley of the Mohawk about the beginning 
of the last century. Josiali Stanford, 
father of Leland, was a farmer and promi- 
nent citizen of the county, whose family 
consisted of seven sons — Leland being the 
fourth — and one daughter. Until the age 
of twenty, Leland's time was passed at 
study and on the farm. He tlien com- 
menced the study of law, and in 1845 en- 
tered the law office of Wheaten, Doolittle 
«fe Hudley, in Albany, N. Y. In 1849 he 
moved West, and commenced the practice 
of law at Port Washington, Wisconsin. 
Here, in June, 1850, he was married to 
Miss Jane Lathrop. In 1852, we find 
him following many of his friends to the 
new El Dorado. He landed in California 
July 12, 1852, proceeded directly to the 



mines, and settled at Michigan Bluffs, on 
the American River, Placer county, and in 
a few years he had not only realized a for- 
tune, but so far won the confidence of the 
people as to secure the nomination for 
State Treasurer, in 1859, on the Republican 
ticket. At this time the Democratic parly 
had never been beaten, and the canvass 
was made on principle. He was defeated ; 
but in 1861 — asplit^up in the ranks of the 
dominant party having taken place — he 
was nominated for Governor, and elected 
by a plurality of 23,000 votes. How he per- 
formed the trust, is well known. Suffice it 
to say, he received the thanks of the Leg- 
islature and won the approval of all classes. 
Governor Stanford early moved in the in- 
terest of the Pacific Railroad ; and on the 
22d of February, 1863, while Sacramento 
was still staggering under the devastat- 
ing flood, and all was gloomy in the fu- 
ture, with the whole country rent by civil 
war, he — all hope, all life and energy — 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



115 



shoveled the first earth, and May 10, 
1869, drove the last spike at Promon- 
tory, Utah, which completed the first 
Great Pacific Kailroad across the 
American continent. 

Central Pacific Railroad, 

Official headquarters, corner Fourth and Town- 

, send Streets, San Francisco, Cal, 
Leland Stanford . . . President. . . San Francisco. 

C. P. Huntington Vice-Prest New York. 

Chas. Crocker Vice-Prest. .San Francisco. 

E. W. Hopkins Treasurer . . " 

E. H. Miller, Jk Secretary . . " 

A.N. TowNE Gen'l Mg'r. " 

J. A. Fillmore Gen'l Supt. " 

B. H. Pbatt Ass't Supt.. " 

T.H.Goodman G.P.d^T.A. 

K. A. Donaldson Assistant . . " 

J. C. Stdbbs F. T. Mg'r. " 

Richard Grey G.F.A " 

S. S. Montague Chief Engr. " 

Land Com'r " 

"W.H.Porter Auditor _ " 

O. C. Wheeler Gen'l B.Agt 

F. Knowland, Ge.n''l Eastern Ag't, 287 B'way N. T. 
M. T. Dennis, Gen'l Eastern Ag't for Neir Enr/-, 

Boston, Mass 



As most of the people who read this 
book, we conclude, are familiar with 
the history of the building of the Pa- 
cific E. R., and as we have, for 13 years 
past, published a condensed account 
of it— the trials, struggles and final tri- 
umph of the enterprise — it must suf- 
fice for this time to give a few facts and 
figures, and then pass on to our review 
of the cities, towns and objects of in- 
terest along the road and in the coun- 
try adjacent. The first survey was for 
the Centi'al, over the Sierra Nevada 
Mountains, by Theo. D. Judah, in the 
Summer of 18(30, followed in 1861 by a 
more thorough one, when a passage 
was discovered and declared feasible. 

In 18G2 Congress granted the Pacific 
railroad charter, and the first ground 
was broken for it by the Central, at 
Sacramento, Cal., Feb. 22, 1863, two 
years and eight months before ground 
was broken for the Union, at Omaha, 




THE WAY WE ONCE WENT TO VIRGINIA CITY. 



116 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



Neb, The following' will show the num- 
ber of miles completed by the Central 
during each year : In 1863-4-5, 20 miles 
each year; iii ISCfi, 30 miles; in 1867, 4G 
miles; in 1868, 364 miles; in 1869, 190i 
miles, making 690^ miles from Sacra- 
mento to Promontory, where the roads 
met, May 10, 1869. 

The whole length of the Pacific rail- 
road proper, from Omaha to Sacra- 
mento, is l,776i miles, of which the 
Union built 1,085 and the Central 6904 
miles. By a subsequent arrangement, 
the Union relinquished 53 miles to the 
Central, and in '69 the latter purchased 
the whole of the Western Pacific, from 
San Francisco to Sacramento, 137i 
miles in length, which gave the Central 
Pacific 882 miles of road, from Ogden 
to San Francisco, and made the en- 
tire line from Omaha to San Francis- 
co 1,914 miles. 

" All aboard," is now the order, and 
our train glides northward through 
the western suburbs of Ogden, cross- 
ing broad bottom lands, largely under 
cultivation. The Weber Eiver is on 
the left, the longhigh range of the Wa- 
satch Mountains on the right. Within 
a few miles the Ogden River is cross- 
ed, and also many irrigating canals. 
The track of the Utah & Northern is on 
the right, andAvill be for the next 24 
miles, near the foot of the mountains ; 
and as the towns and objects of note 
"were described on the trip over that 
road they will be ]mssedin this place. 

Bonneville— is the first that we 
pass on the Central. It is 9.9 miles from 
Ogden, near Willard, in the midst of 
good farming land, which yields large 
crops of wheat, barley and corn. 

Brighani— comes next, 7:14 miles 
further. The town is to the eastward, 
near the base of the mountains, here- 
tofore described under the head of the 
Utah & Northern. Passing Brigham, 
the road inclines to the left, west, and 
crosses Bear Eiver on a trestle bridge 
1,200 feet long, the piles of which were 
driven in water 18 feet deep ; and half 
a mile further, and 7.14 miles from 
Brigham, we stop at 



Colorado was first visited by white men — 
Spaniards— in 1 540. Explored by Z. M. Pike, who 
gave his name to Pike's Peak, in 1806 ; by Col. 
S. H. Long in 1820, who named Long's Peak ; by 
Gen. Fremont in 184."! ; by Gov. Wm. Giipin in 
1840, who has traversed the country more or 
less until the present time. 



Corinne — This city is not as prosper- 
ous in its mercantile and forwarding busi- 
ness as it was several years ago, owing 
principally to the fact that the Utah North- 
ern has been extended north too fai-; and 
then the taking up of the branch track 
from the city has entirely cut off the 
freighting business to Montana and the 
northern settlements, that formerly went 
from this place. However, the citizens are 
by no means blue, but have built a canal 
from a point 11 miles to the northward, 
and now conduct the waters of the Malad 
River down to the city, and not only use it 
for irrigating thousands of acres of land, 
but for city and manufiicturing purposes, 
chief of which is a flouring mill which 
produces about four tons of flour a day. 
Corinne has three churches, a good school, 
several hotels, and a weekly newspai)er, 
the Record. 

Many of the citizens have embarked in 
the stock-raising business, and are doing 
well ; the range to the northward is very 
good. Around the town are many thou- 
sand acres of land, which only require 
irrigation and culture to render them pro- 
ductive in tlie highest degree. 

Again Westward! The farming lands 
gradually give way to alkali beds — white, 
barren, and glittering in the sun. Now 
the road curves along the bank of the lake, 
crossing the low flats on a bed raised 
several feet above the salt deposits. The 
channel along the road, caused by excava- 
tion, is filled with a reddish, cold-looking 
water. Taste it at the first opportunity, 
and you will wish that the first opportu- 
nity had never oftered. 

f^aarry — is 7.64 miles further west, 
beiug aside-track where trains seldom stop, 
but skirt along the base of the mountains 
with the lake and broad alkali bottoms on 
the left. The cars pass over several long 
and high embankments, and reach the 
high broken laud again at 

Bine Creek— which is 11.96 miles 
from Quarry. During the construction of 
the road, this was one of the hardest 
" Camps " along the whole line. 

Leaving the station, we cross Blue Creek 
on a trestle bridge 300 feet long and 30 feet 
high. Thence by tortuous curves we wind 
around the heads of several little valleys, 
crossing them well against the hillside by 
heavy fills. The track along here has 
been changed, avoiding several long tres- 
tle bridges, and running on a solid em- 
bankment. 



crofutt's new overlaxd tourist 



117 




Through more deep rock cuts we wind 
around Promontory Mountain until the 
lake is lost to view. Up, up we go, the 
engine pufSng and snorting with its ardu- 
ous labors, until the summit is gained, and 
we arrive at the former terminus of the two 
Pacific railroads— 8.93 miles from Blue 
Creek. 

Promontory — elevation, 4,905 feet; 
distance from Omaha 1,084 miles; from 
San Francisco 830 miles — is celebrated for 
being the point where the connection be- 
tween the two roads was made on the 10th 
of May, 1869. 

This town, formerly very lively, is now 
almost entirely deserted. The supply of 
water is obtained from a spring about four 
miles south of the road, in one of the 
gulches of Promontory 3Iountain. 

The bench on which the station stands 
would doubtless produce vegetables or 
grain, if it could be irrigated, for the sandy 
soil is largely mixed with loam, and the 
bunch grass and sage-brush grow lux- 
uriantly. 



The liRst Spike— On Mondny, the 
lOth day of May. 1869, a large paity was 
congregated on Promontory Point, Utah 
Territory, gathered from the four quarters 
of the Union, and, we might say, from the 
four quarters of the earth. There were 
men from the pine-clad hills of Maine, 
the rock-bound coast of Massachusetts, 
the everglades of Florida, the golden 
shores of tlie Pacific slope, from China, 
Europe, and the wilds of the American 
continent. There were the lines of blue- 
clad bovs, witli their burnished muskets 
and glistening bayonets, and over all, in 
the bright May sun, floated the glorious 
old stars and stripes, an emblem of unity, 
power and prosperity. They are grave, 
earnest men, most of them, who are gath- 
ered here; men who would not leave their 
homes and business and traverse half or 
two-thirds of the continent only on the 
most urgent necessity, or on an occasion of 
great national importance, such as they 
might never hope to behold again. It was 
I to witness such an event, to be present at 



118 



CKOFUTt's new overland TOUPaST 




AXD PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



119 



the consummation of one of the grandest 
of modern enterprises, that they had gath- 
ered here. Tliey were liere to do honor 
to the occasion when 1,774 miles of rail- 
road should be united, binding in one un- 
broken chain the East and the West. 
(Sacramento at that time was the western 
tei minus.) 

To witness this grand event — to be par- 
takers in the glorious act — this assemblage 
had convened. All around was excite- 
ment and bustle that morning ; men hurry- 
ing to and fro, grasping their neighbors' 
hands in hearty greeting, as they paused 
to ask or answer hurried questions. This 
is the day of final triumph of the friends 
of the road over their croaking opponents, 
for long ere the sun shall kiss the weslern 
summits of the gray old monarchs of the 
desert, the work will be accomplished, the 
assemblage dispersed, and quiet reign 
once more, broken only by the hoarse 
scream of the locomotive; and when the 
lengthening mountain shadows shall 
sweep across the plain, flecked and mot- 
tled with the departing sunbeams, they 
will fall on the iron rails which will 
stretch away in one unbroken line from 
the Sacramento to the Missouri River. 

The hours passed slowly on until the 
sun rode high in the zenith, his glittering 
rays ftilling directly down upon the vacant 
place between the two roads, which was 
waiting to receive the last tie and rails 
which would unite them forever. On 
either road stood long lines of cars, the 
impatient locomotives occasionally snort- 
ing out their cheering notes, as though they 
understood what was goingou, andrejoiced 
in common with the excited assemblage. 

To give effect to the proceedings, ar- 
rangements had been made by which the 
large cities of the Union should be notified 
of the exact minute and second when the 
road should be finished. Telegraphic 
communications were organized with the 
principal cities of the East and West, and 
at the designated hour the lines were put 
in connection, and all other business sus- 
pended. In San Francisco the wires were 
connected with the fire-alarm in the tower, 
where the ponderous bell could spread the 
news over the city the instant the event 
occured. Baltimore, Philadelphia, Bos- 
ton, New York, Cincinnati, and Chicago 
were waiting for the moment to arrive 
when the chained lightning should be 
loosed, carrying the news of a great civil 



victory over the length and breadth of the 
land. 

The hour and minute designated ar- 
rived, and Leland Stanford, President, as- 
sisted by other oflicers of the Central Pa- 
cific, tame forward ; T. C. Durant, Vice- 
President of the Union Pacific, assisted by 
General Dodge and others of the same 
company, met them at the end of the rail, 
whei e they reverently paused, while Rev. 
Dr. Todd, of JNIass., invoked the Divine 
blessing. Then the last tie, a beautiful 
piece of Avorkmanship, of California laurel, 
with silver plates on Avliich were suitable 
inscriptions, was put in place, and the 
last connecting rails were laid by parties 
from each company. The last spikes 
were then presented, one of gold from 
California, one of silver from Nevada, and 
one of gold, silver and iron from Arizona. 
President Stanford then took the hammer, 
made of solid silver — and to the hantlle of 
which were attached the telegraph wires — 
and with the first taj) on the head of the 
gold spike at 12, m , the news of the event 
was flashed over the continent. Speeches 
were made as each spike was driven, 
and when all was completed, cheer al ter 
cheer rent the air from the enthusiastic 
assemblage, 

Then the Jupiter, a locomotive of the 
C. P. R. R. Co., and locomotive No. 116, of 
the U. P. R. R. Co., approached from each 
way, meeting on the dividing line, where 
they rubbed their brown noses together, 
while shaking hands, as illustrated. 

To say that wine flowed freely would 
convey but a faint idea of the good feeling 
manifested and the provision made by each 
company for the entertainment of their 
guests, and the celebration of the event. 

Immediately on the completion of the 
work, a charge was made on the lust tie 
(not the silver-plated, gold-spiked laurel, 
for that had been removed and a pine tie 
substituted) by relic hunters, and soon it 
was cut and hacked to pieces, and the 
fragments carried away as trophies or me- 
mentoes of the great event. Even one of the 
last rails laid in place was cut and battered 
so badly that it was removed and another 
substituted. Weeks after the event we 
passed the place again, and found an enthu- 
siastic person cutFing a piece out of the 
last tie laid. He was proud of his treasure 
— that little chip of pine — for it was a jjiece 
of the last tie. We did not tell him that 
three or four ties liad been placed there 
since the first was cut in pieces. 



120 



CKOFUTT S NEW OVERLAND. 




PACIFIC COAST GUIDK. 



121 



In the cars belonging to each line, a 
sumptuous repast was served up to the in- 
vited guests. Then, as the sun sank low- 
to the western summit of Promontory- 
Point, the trains moved away with 
parting salutes from locomotives, and 
the celebration was ended, the i)artici- 
pants speeding away to their far dis- 
tant homes, and so closed the eventful 
day on Promontory Point. 

For Sketch of Great Salt Lake, see 
Anxex No. 21. 

For Iludaut's Survey of route to Oregon, 
see Aknex No. 28. 

We now resume our westward journey 
from Promontory. Four miles west (near 
a gravel track on the north side) can be 
seen close to the road, on the south side, a 
sign-board, which reads, 

"TEN MILES OF TRACK IN ONE DVT." 

Agaiu, on the same side, ten miles fur- 
ther west, another widi the same inscrip- 
tion will appear. These boards, mark the 
track which was laid by the track layers of 
the Central Pacific company in one da;/, 
under the immediate charge of J. H. 
Strowbridge, Superintendent of Construc- 
tion, H. H. Minkler, track layer, andjames 
Campbell, Superintendent of Division. 
This uudoubtedl}' is the most extra' irdinary 
feat of the kind ever accomplished in this 
or any other country. 

Why ir was done — During the build- 
ing of the road, a great rivalry existed be- 
tween the two companies as to which could 
lay the most track in one day. This ri- 
valry commenced early in the year 1868. 
The " Union " laying six miles; soon after 
the "Central " laid seven miles, and then 
again the " Union " seven and a half miles. 
The " Central " men, not to be outdone, ao- 
nounceu that they could lay ten miles in 
adav. Mr. Durant, Vice-President of 
the ''Union" offered to bet $10,000 that 
it couldnotbe done, and the "Central" 
resolved it should be done. Conse- 
quently, on tlie 29th of xlpril, 1809, when 
only fourteen miles of track remained 
to be laid to meet the "Union" at Pro- 
montory Point, andinthe presence of 
Gov. Stanford and many prominent 
men from the East and West, and a 
committee from the "Union" to note 
tb'^ proQrfss. the work commenced. 
How IT WAS DONE — -When the car 
loaded with rails came to the end of the 
track, the two outer rails on eltlier side 
were seized with iron nippers, hauled for- 



ward off the car, and laid on the lies by four 
men who attended exclusively to this. Over 
these rails the car was pushed forward, and 
the process repeated. Behind these men 
came a gang of men who half-drove the 
spikes and screwed on the fish-plates. At 
a short interval behind these came a gang 
of Chinamen, who drove home the spikes 
already inserted and added the rest. Be- 
hind these came a second squad of China- 
men, two deep on each side of the track. 
The inner men had shovels, the outer ones 
jncks. Together, they ballasted the track. 
The average rate of speed at which all 
these processes were carried on was one 
minute and 47^2 seconds to every 240 feet 
of track laid down. 

Material, Required — Those unac- 
quainted with the enormous amount of ma- 
lerial required to build ten miles of rail- 
road can learn something from the follow- 
ing figures: It requires 25,800 cross ties, 
8,5'20 iron rails, 55,000 spikes, 7,040 fish- 
plates, and 14,080 bolts, the whole weigh- 
ing 4,o6-2,000 lbs. This material is required 
for a single track, exclusive of" mrnouts." 
To bring 1 his material forward and place 
it in position, over 4,000 men, and hun- 
dreds of cars and wagons were employed. 
The discipline acquired in the four years 
s nee the commencement of the road en- 
abled the force to begin at the usual time 
in the morning, calm and unexcited, and 
march steadily on to "Victory," as the 
place where they rested at 1 :30 p. m. was 
called, having laid eight miles of track in 
six hours. Here tins great ' Central " army 
must bo fed, but Campbell was equal to the 
requirements. The camp and water train 
was brought up at the proper moment, and 
the whole force took dinner, including 
many distinguished guests. After the 
''hour nooning,"" the army was again on 
the march, and at precisely 7 r. M. 10 miles 
and 200 feet had been complet d. 

When this was done, the " Union " Com- 
mittee expressed tlieir satisfaction and re- 
turned to their camp, and Campbell sprang 
upon the engine and ran it over the ten 
miles of track in forty minut(s, thus dem- 
onstrating tuat the work was icill done. 

Soon after leaving Promontory, the grade 
of the road descends, and 7.93 miles we 
reach 

Rosel — situated almost on the edge of 
Salt Lake. It is an unimportant station, 
where passenger trains never stop, unless 
signaled. A few miles further, and we 
pass the sign-board where commenced the 



12: 



enOFUTT S NEW OVEKLAXD TOURIST 



work of laying the "ten miles of track in 
one day." Continuing along on the lake 
shore, with large bluff on the right, for 9.49 
miles further, we pass 

Lake — another side-track, and 6.98 
miles more arrive at 

Moiiniuent — Here, many times, the 
lake breeze sweeps hy, bearing tlie heavy 
alkaline and saline odors jjeculiar to this 
locality, and peculiarly offensive to inva- 
lids. Monument Point, a slim, tapering 
promontory, stretches far out into the lake, 
covered with excellent grass. We shall not 
see much more of the article for some time 
to come, foi- we are now on Avhat might 
well be calkd the American Desert. Leav- 
ing Monument, it is 7.34 miles to 

JSeco — another side-track of no account, 
as all is sage-brush. Descending a heavy 
grade, we sweep around the head of the 
western arm of the lake, nearing and leav- 
ing its waters for the last time. Another 
run of 7.1 miles brings us to 

M.el i oil— or Indian Creek, as it is some- 
limes called. This is a station of more im- 
portance than any yet passed since leaving 
Promontory. There are large watc -tanks 
by the ':'(iad-side, supplied from a spring 
in the foot-hills some miles to the north- 
ward. Here the Rail road Co. li 1 1 their water- 
cars — a train of which run daily to supply 
many of the.stations on this division of the 
road. The Red Dome Mountains show 
their scattered spurs to the north, and 
to the southeast Pilot Knob or Peak can be 
seen lifting its rocky front far above the 
desert. 

From this station a daily line of coaches 
leaves for Idaho and Oregon, on arrival of 
the cars. The route passes through Idaho 
and the eastern part of Oregon, connecting 
with the steamers of the Oregon Steam 
Navigation Company at Umatilla, on the 
Columbia River — through to Boise in two 
days; Walla Walla in lour days; Portland 
in five and a half days. 

The Boise CorxTny, to v/liich the line 
of stages spoken of conveys the adventurous 
passengers, lies in the southeastern portion 
o. Idado Territory, bordering on Oregon. 
Extensive mines of gold have been woiked 
th^r f'^' years, and still continue to attract 
ma .ttention, as rich mines of gold-bear- 
ing q • have been di.scovered and worked 
since th : placer mines have been parlially 
exhaustL'd. The principal mining country 
i i that portion generally designated as 
the ^oise Basin, which comprises a scope 
of country about 150 miles north and south. 



by a length of about 200 miles. The Boise 
mines lie north of the Suake or Shoshone 
River. The principal streams in the 
mining section are Boise River, Fayette 
River, Wind Crtek, IVIoore's Creek and 
Salmon River. The Owyhee mines lie 
south of the Snake River and War Eagle 
Mountains. This poition of the mining 
belt of Idaho is not as extensive as the one 
just mentioned. The ores are mostlj^ silver. 
Boise City— i.s the capital of the Ter- 
ritory and county seat of Ada county. 
Population G,000. The town site Avas 
laid out in 1863, and now contains 
about 700 buildings, mostly brick and 
stone. The town is situated in a fine 
agricultural valley, about two miles 
wide by 50 long. It is the center of 
several stage routes, and also of trade 
for a large section of country. The Stutes- 
via)), a tri-weekly paper, is published here. 

Id.vho — is the second city in size in the 
Territory, population about 2,500. It lies 
36 miles northeast of Boise City, with which 
it is connected with stage, and also with 
Umatilla, Oregon. The Wo/id, newspaper, 
is published here — semi-weekly. 

Silver City — contains about 2,000 inhab- 
itants. The buildings are mostly granite. 
The Avahoiche, a weekly paper, rej^resents 
the interests of the town. 

We now return to the railroa,d, and 11.43 
miles further, arrive at 

Oinbey — Passenger trains seldom stop 
here, but roll on 9.87 miles further, to 

natlin — This station is on the high- 
land, which sweeps out tiom the Red 
Dome Mountains. Here these mountains — 
low sandstone ridges — are nearer the track, 
breaking the monotony of the scene. 
The road lies on the northern border 
of a vast waste whereon we see few 
signs of verdure. The station is 
miilway from east to west of the 

American Desert — which extends 
over an area of 60 square miles. Over 
this vast extent the eve wanders in 
vain for some green object— some evi- 
dence that in times gone by this waste 
su]iported animal life, or will eventually 
in years to come. All is desolate in the 
extreme; the b^re beds of alkali, or wastes 
of gray sand only meet the vision, if we 
except' now and then a rocky hill more 
barren than the plains, if such things 
were possible. Evidently this desert was 
once the bed of a saline lake, perhajis a 
portion of the Great Salt Lake itself The 
bloping plain sweei s off towards that 



AND I'ACIFIO COAST GUIDE. 



123 



body of water, and in places bends down 
until its thirsty sands are laved by the 
briny flood. There are many evidences in 
suppoit of the theory that it was once 
covered by those waters, although much 
higher than the present level of the lake. 
The saline matter is plainly discernible in 
many places, and along the red sandstone 
buttes which mark its northern border. 
The long line of water-wash, so distinctly 
seen at Ogden, and other points along the 
lake shore, c;iu be distinctly traced, and 
apparently on the same level as the bench 
at those places. The difi"erence in the alti- 
tude of the road is plainly indicated by 
this line, for as we journey westward, and 
the elevation of the plateau increases, we 
find that the water-wash line blends with 
the rising ground and is seen no more. 

Matliii is an unimportant station, 10.78 
miles from 

Terrace— Here the railroad company 
have erected work-shops and a 10-siali 
round-house. To the northward the hills 
which mark the entrance to the Thousand 
Spring Valley are plainly seen; they are 
brown, bare and uninviting as the country 
we are passing through. Some mines are 
reported near, but have not j^'t been de- 
veloped. From Terrace it is 10.54 miles to 

Bovine — Here there is little of interest 
to note, the face of the country remaining 
about the same, thoagh gradually improv- 
ing. Spots of bunch-grass appear at inter- 
vals, and the sage-brush seems to have 
taken a new lease of life, indicating a more 
congenial soil. 

Continuing on 10.85 miles further we 
reach 

¥.<iiciii — At this point we find water 
tanks supplied by springs in the hills at 
the outlet of Thousand Spring Valley, 
whicK lies to the north, just behind that 
first bare ridge, one of the spurs of the 
Humboldt Ridge, but a few miles distant. 
Th ! valley is about four miles wide, and 
not far from GO miles long, taking in its 
windings from this point to wliere it 
breaks over the Divide into Humboldt Val- 
ley. It is little better than one continual 
bog in the center— the water from tbe nu- 
merous brackish springs found there 
standing in pools over the surface. There 
is good range of pasturage for the cattle in 
the valley and hills beyond. The old em- 
igrant road branches oft" at or near the 
station, one road passing through the val- 
le> , the other following nearly Uie line of 



railroad until it reaches the Humboldt via, 
Humb.. kit Wells. 

Goose or Hot Spring Creek, a small 
stream which courses through ihe valley 
its entire length, sinks near by the station, 
rising and sinking at intervals, until it is 
lost in the desert. 

Before reaching the next station we 
leave Utah and enter the State of Nevada. 
Passing over 11.75 miles of up-grade, our 
train arrives at 

Tecoma — In 1874 quite an excitement 
was created among the mining operators 
by the discovery of rich silver and lead 
mines, situated about five miles south of 
Ibis station in the Toano range of moun 
tains. A new town was laid out at the 
mines — called Buel. A smelting furnace 
was erected at the mines and a run of 200 
tons of bullion produced, valued at $360,- 
UOO, which was shipped to San Francisco 
on one train, creating no small excitement 
on California street. Indications of coal 
mines have been found in the vicinity, but 
no systematic eftbrt has yet been made to 
develop them. 

Stock-raising is now the principal busi- 
ness of this country. To the northward of 
this station, and in fact for the last two 
stations, large herds of cattle can be seen, 
and at the stations, pens and shutes for 
shipping. 

Pilot Peak, a noted landmark Avhich 
has been visible for the past fifty miles, 
lies almost due south of this station— dis- 
tance 36 miles. It is a lofty pile of rocks 
— the eastern terminus of Pilot Mountains 
— rising about 2,500 feet al)Ove the barren 
sands. " For about half-way from the liase 
to the summit the sides are shelving piles 
of shattered lock — huge masses crushed to 
atoms. Above that it rises perpendicularly 
the summit looking like some old castle 
when seen at a distance. From Promontory 
Point looking westward, this vast pile can be 
seen on a clear day— a dark mass amid the 
bluehaze which boundsthe western horizon. 
To the emigrant, in early days, before the 
railroad,itwas a welcome landmark, point- 
inghis course to Humboldt Wells or Thou- 
sand Spring Valley, where he was sure to 
find water and teed for his weary teams, 
af er crossing the barren waste. 

From Tecoma it is 9.50 miles up-grade to 

Montello— elevation 4,999 feet. The 
general aspect of the country is changing 
with the increasing elevation. We ap- 
proach nearer the long, rough ridge of the 
I Goose Creek Range, the sides and gulches. 



124 



CKOFUTT S NEW OYKKLAND TOURIST 



of wliicli afford pasturage aud water at 
intervals. We are leaving the barren 
sands behind us, and the country looks 
more capable of supporting animal life. 

Continuing the up-grade — over 550 feet 
•within the next 9.0 miles — we arrive at 

liOray — a station of little importance 
to the traveler. 

From Ijoray, up we go for 7.1 miles 
further to 

Toano — until recently the end of the 
division. 

The company have here er cted work- 
shops and a 14-stall round-house. Toano is 
centrally located as regards many mining 
districts in Eastern Nevada, among which 
are Egan Canj'on, Kinsley, Kern, Patter- 
son, Ely, Pahranagat and Deep Creek— all 
of which are under rapid development. A 
stage line is in operation from this place to 
Egan Canyon and the Cherry Creek mines, 
a distance of DO miles south. Soon after 
leaving Toano we beg u the ascent of Ce- 
dar Pass, which divides the Desert from 
Humboldt Valley. The country is more 
broken, but possessing more vegetation. 
We have passed the western line of the 
desert, where, in early days, tlie travel- 
worn emigrant wearily toiled through the 
burning s^md, his journey unenlivened by 
the sight of water or vegetation. One word 
more, regarding this desert: The term sand 
is generally applied, when speaking of the 
soil of the barren wastes which occur at 
intervals along the road. With one or two 
exceptions it is a misnomer, though it well 
applies to the desert we have crossed. 
Most of the surface of this waste is sand, 
flue, hard and grey, mixed with marine 
shells and fossilized fragments of another 
age. There is no evidence on which to 
found a hope that this portion of the 
country could be rendered subservient to 
the use of man, consisting, as it does, of beds 
of sand and alkali, overlaying a heav;y 
gravel deposit. Ages must pass away 
before nature's Avondrous changes shall 
lender this desert fit for the habitation of 
man. Continuing on up the ridge, 9.91 
miles, we pass 

Pequop— and 5.83 miles further 

OtegO ^ lioth side-tracks of little im- 
portance. Then we commence to descend, 
and 5.6 miles further arrive at 

Independence — Independence 
Springs, from which this station derives its 
name, are near by, aud supply an abun- 
dance of very good cold water. 

Independence, Clover and Ruby valleys, 



lie to the southward. The two first named 
are small and valueless except for grazing 
purposes. From Cedar Pass a spur, or 
rather a low range of hills, extends far to 
the southward. About 70 or 80 miles south 
of the pass, is the South Fork of the Hum- 
boldt which canyons through thi? range, 
running to the east and north of another 
range until it reaches the main Humboldt. 
Although the range first mentioned, after 
havingunited witli the western range south 
of the South Fork, extends much farther 
south, we will follow it only to Fort Ruby, 
which is situated in the south end of Ruby 
Valley, near to the South Fork. From 
this fort to the pass is about 65 miles, 
which may be taken as the length of the 
valley. The average width is ten miles 
from the western range mentioned to the 
foot-hills of Ruby Range, which hems in 
the valley to the east. A large portion of 
this valley is very productive ard is occu- 
pied by settlers — mostly discharged sol- 
diers from Fort Ruby. In the southeast- 
ern portion of the valley is Ruby and 
Franklin lakes, which are spoken of un- 
der the general term of Ruby Lake, for in 
high water they are united, forming a 
brackish sheet of water about 15 miles 
long by seven in width, which haa no out- 
let. It'is— like Humboldt, Carson and Pyr- 
amid lakes in the Truckee Desert— merely 
a leservoir, where the fioods accumulate to 
evaporate in the dry summer. The old 
stage road, from Salt Lake to Austin, 
crosses the foot of the valley at Ruby sta- 
tion. About 20 miles east of the Ruby 
Range lies GoshootLake, another brackish 
pond, with two small tributaries aud no 
outlet, rather wider aud about the same 
length as Ruby Lake. About half-way be- 
tween GosLoot and the railroad lies Snow 
Lake, about five miles in diameter, possefs- 
ing the same general characteristics as the 
others. With" the exception of the valleys 
around these lakes and along the water- 
courses, the country is valueless except for 
stock-raising. In the Ruby Range rich 
silver lodes have been discovered, some 
rock of which has been found to assay as 
high as f 600 per ton. 

Returning to Independence, we again 
proceed westward— the country is rolling 
and broken — and the up-grade continues 
6.1 miles to 

Ifloore's — on the summit of Cedar 
Pass. We now have down-grade for 311 
miles to the Nevada Desert. 

In general outline this pass resembles a 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



125 



rather rough, broken i)lateavi,bent up- 
ward in the middle, forming a natural 
roadbed from the desert to the Hum- 
boldt Valley. It was once covered with 
scrub cedar, which was cut off for use 
by the railroad company and others. 
Some is still obtained in the moun- 
tains to the north. About 15 miles to 
the north a high, craggy peak marks 
the ])oint where Thousand S]iring Val- 
ley bends to the south, and from its 
divide slopes down to the valley of the 
Humboldt. Descending 2.65 miles is 

Cedar— a small side-track, and six 
miles further brings our train to 

Wells — Here are located the usual 
round-house and machine shops of a 
division. The station is 1,250 miles 
from Omaha and 664 from San Fran- 
cisco; elevation, 5,628 feet. Owing to 
the location of railroad shops at this 
place much imin'ovement is notice- 
able in the last few years. The chief 
points of interest around the station 
are the celebrated. 

Humboldt Wells — around which 
the emigrants, in early times, camped 
to recruit their teams, after a long, 
hard journey across the desert. The 
wells are in the midst of a beautiful 
meadow or valley, which slopes away 
until it joins the Humboldt or main 
valley. The springs or wells— about 20 
in number — are scattered over this lit- 
tle valley ; one from which the compa- 
ny obtain their supply of water being 
within 200 yards of the road, and about 
that distance west of the station. A 
house has been built over it, and the 
water is raised into the tanks by an 
engine. These wells Avould hardly be 
noticed by the traveler unless his at- 
tention was called to them. Nothing 
marks their presence except the circle 
of rank grass around them. When 
standing on the bank of one of these 
curious springs, you look on a still sur- 
face of water, perhaps 6 or 7 feet across 
and nearly round ; no current disturbs 
it ; it resembles a well more than a na- 
tural spring, and you look to see the 
dirt taken from it when dug. The wa- 
ter, which is slightly brackish, rises 
to the surface, seeping off through the 
loose, sandy loam soil of the valley. 
No bottom has been found to these 
wells, and they have been sounded to 
a great depth. Undoubtedly they are 
the craters of volcanoes long since ex- 



tinct, but which at one time threw up 
this vast body of lava of which the soil 
of Cedar Pass is largely composed. 
The whole face of the country bears 
evidence of the mighty change which 
has been taking place for centuries. 
Lava in hard, rough blocks ; lava de- 
composed and powdered ; huge blocks 
of granite and sandstone in the foot- 
hills, broken, shattered and thrown 
around in wild confusion, are some of 
the signs indicative of an age when 
desolation reigned supreme. The val- 
ley in which the wells are situated is 
about five miles long by three wide, 
covered with a luxuriant growth c*f 
grass. The low hills afford an er- 
cellent stock "range." The transition 
from the parched desert and barren, 
desolate upland to these green and 
Avell- watered valleys, redolent with 
the aroma of the countless flowers 
which deck its bosom, seems like the 
work of magic. 

Rich mineral discoveries have been 
made about 35 or 40 miles southeast of 
Wells— east of Clover Valley— in the 
Johnson «& Latham district. The veins 
are reported large, well-defined, and 
rich in silver, copper and lead ; large 
deposits of iron ore have also been 
found. The district is well supi^lied 
with wood and water, and easy of ac- 
cess from the railroad. A stage runs 
through the district, extending 100 
miles south to Shelburn, near the old 
overland stage road, in the Shellcreek 
mining district. A stage line is also in 
operation to the Bull Run district. 

Stock-raising occupies the atten- 
tion of most of the settlers about this 
section and to the northward. 

Leaving the Wells we proceed down 
the valley for a few miles, when we en- 
ter the main valley of the Humboldt, 
which is very rich, but the seasons are 
too short for agricultural purposes. 
The soil is a deep black loam, moist 
enough for all purposes without irri- 
gation, from one to two feet deep. 
This portion of the Humboldt is about 
80 miles In length, averaging 10 miles 
in width, nearly every aci'e being of 
the quality described. From Osino 
Caiion to the headwaters of the valley 
is occupied by settlers who have taken 
up hay ranches and stock ranges. The 
river abounds in fish and the foot- 
hills with deer and other game. 



126 



crofutt's new overlamd tourist 



The Humboldt Eiver rises in the 
Humboldt Mountains, northwest of 
Cedar Pass, and courses westerly for 
about 250 miles, when it bends to the 
south, emptying into Humboldt Lake, 
about 50 miles from the Big Bend. It 
is a rapid stream for most of the dis- 
tance, possessing few fords or conve- 
nient places for crossing. The railroad 
follows down its northern bank until 
it reaches Twelve-Mile Canon, about 
16 miles west of Carlin, where it cross- 
es to the south side of the river and 
continues about 170 miles, when it 
crosses again and leaves the river, 
skirting the foot-hills in full view of 
the river and lake. The main stream 
has many varieties of lish, and at cer- 
tain seasons its waters are a great re- | 
sort for wild ducks and geese. Where 
it enters the lake the volume of water 
is much less than it is 100 miles above, 
owing to the aridity of the soil through 
which it passes. Of the valleys bor- 
dering it we shall speak separately, as 
each division is totally distinct in its 
general features. The "old emigrant 
road" can be distinctly traced along 
the river from its head to its source. 

From Wells, continuing down grade, 
it is 7.5 miles to 

Tulasco— a small side-track, live 
miles from 

BUhop's— This is another unim- 
portant side-track, where Bishop's 
valley unites with the Humboldt. This 
valley is 70 miles long, average width 
about live miles. It is very fertile, be- 
ing watered by Bishop's Creek, which 
rises in the Humboldt Mountains, near 
HumboldtCahon, about 70 miles to the 
northeast,winding through the valley. 
Deetli— is passed 7.7 miles from 
Bishop's, and 12.9 miles farther to 

Hal leek— At this station Govern- 
ment stores are left for Fort Halleek, a 
military station on the opposite side 
of the river. At the foot of the moun- 
tain—about 12 miles from the station- 
can be seen some settlers' buildings. 



Xo.53 Annex. ' l*i'M"k«',v."'tl>« Moriie't 

Toati.— This singular little iii<'iiil)er of the lizard 
sijecies is certainly a native Calit'oruian. It is 
found uiion nearly every dry hill or gravelly plain ; 
and although it is rare in some districts, in others 
it is still common. There are several varieties and 
sizes of it, and all perfectly harmelss. It lives 
chiefly on flies and small insects. A California 
friend of ours had a pair of these picketed in 
front of his cabin for over three months ; and, 
one morning, the male toad wound itself around 
the picket pin and strangled to death, and the 



situated on the road to the post. The 
military post is hid from view by the 
intervening hills. It is situated on an 
elevated plateau, which lies partially 
behind the first range, debouching 
thence in a long upland, which ex- 
tends some distance down the river. 
The valleys along the hills and much 
of the upland, are settled, and for veg- 
etables and cerals not affected by the 
early frost, prove very productive. A 
ready market is found along the rail- 
road. 

l*eko— is an unimportant station, 
3.3 miles west of Halleek. Just after 
leaving the station we cross the north 
fork of the Humboldt on a truss bridge 
This river, where it unites with the 
main stream, is of equal size. It rises 
about 100 miles north, and receives as 
tributaries many small creeks and riv- 
ulets. The valfey of the North Fork 
is from five to seven miles wide and 
covered wuth a heavy growth of grass, 
and, like the main valley, is not sus- 
ceptible of cultivation to any great 
extent. Some kinds of vegetables 
yield handsome returns. The seasons 
are long enough, and the absence of 
early and late frosts insures a crop. 
Around the head of this valley are 
many smaller ones, each tributary 
stream having its own separate body 
of valley land. Some are perfectgems, 
nestled among the hills and almost 
surrounded by timber. Here game in 
abundance is found— quail, grouse, 
hare, deer and bear, and sometimes a 
"mountain lion," and the tourist, an- 
gler and hunter will find enough to oc- 
cupy them pleasantly should they visit 
this region. In these valleys are many 
thousand acres of Government land 
unclaimed, excepting that portion 
owned by the Railroad Company. 

The Humboldt and its tributary val-. 
leys, as a range for stock, have no su- 
perior west of the Rocky Mountains. 
The winters are mild— snow rarely suf- 
ficiently deep to render it necessary to 

same day the female followed his example. Upon 
a post mortem examination of the female 1>"J eggs 
were found, about the size and shape of a small 
wren's egg. (See illustration, page Sl.j 

The Mammotli Snow I'low— owned by 
the Central Pacific Railroad, rests upon two four- 
wheel trucks, is 29. feet long, 10 feet G inches 
wide, 13 feet 3 inches high, and weighs 41,860 
pounds. It was once propelled by ten locomo- 
tives, at the rate of OiO miles an hour, into a snow 
drift on the Sierra Nevada Mountains, resulting 
in a big hole in the snow. 



CROFUTt's new OVEKLAIS^D XOUKIST 



127 



feed the stock. Wild cattle are found in 
the valleys and among the hills, Avhich 
have never received any attention or care. 
Stock-raisers are tornin-'- their attention of 
late to this couutry and find it very re- 
munerative. The range is not confined 
to the valley alone, the foot-hills and 
even the mountain sides produce the 
bunch grass in profusion. "Wherever 
sage-brush grows rank on the hill- 
sides, bunchgrass thrives equally well. 

O.iiiio— is 11.8 miles down the valley 
from Peko — a signal station at the 
head of Osino Canyon, where the val- 
ley suddenly ends. 

At this point the northern range of 
mountains sweeps to the river bank, 
which mw assumes a tortuous course — 
seeming to double back on itself in places 
— completely bewildering the traveler. 
Across the rivtr the high peak of tlie 
opposite chain rise clear and bold from the 
valley, contrasting strongly Avith the black, 
broken i asses of shattered m untaius 
r.mong which we are winding in and out, 
seemingly in an endless labyrinth. Now 
we wind round a high point, the rail 
lying close to the river's bank, and next 
we cross a little valley with the water 
washing against the opposite blufl's, half a 
mile iway. A dense mass 'f willow 
covers the bottom lauds through which the 
river wanders. On around another rocky 
point and "we are in a wider portion of the 
canyon, with an occasional strip of meadow 
land in view, when suddenly we emerge 
into a beautiful valley, across which we 
speed, the road curving around to the right, 
r.nd 8.8 miles from the last station we 
arrive at 

Klko — The county seat of Elko county ; 
popu'aiion about 1.2U0. Elko is a regular 
eating station for all trains from East 
and West. The town consisted of wood 
and canvas houses— wliieh latter class 
is ra])idlybeing replaced by something 
more substantial. In the last few years 
the town has improved materially. 
The State University, which cost $30,- 
000, is located here, just to the north- 
ward of the town. At this station — and 
almost every one to the westward — can l}e 
seen representatives of the Shoshone or 
Piute Indians, Avlio come around the cars 
to beg. Any person who wishes to tell a 
big " whopper" would say, they are clean, 
neatly dressed, "child-like and bland," and 
perfumed with the choicest attar of roses, 
but an old plainsman would reverse the 



saying in terms more expressive than 
elegant. 

Near the town some Wakm Springs are 
attracting attention. The medicinal quali- 
ties of the water are highly spoken of. A 
hr.^k lies between the hotel and the 
springs, making regular trips for the ac- 
commodation of visitors. 

The rich silver mining district of Cope 
is about 80 miles due north of Elko, near 
the head waters of the North Fork of the 
Humboldt, bordering on the Owyhee coun- 
try. Some very rich mines have been dis- 
covered and several quartz mills erected, 
in that district, but the more recent dis- 
coveries are in Tuscarora district about 50 
miles north, and arc said to be very rich. 

Stages leave Elko daily for Mountain 
City— north, in Cope district — 80 miles dis- 
tant, and all intermediate towns and camps. 
Stages also run to Railroad district — south 
25 miles, and to Eureka district, 100 miles; 
also a weekly line to the South Fork of the 
Humboldt and Huntington valleys. Large 
quantities ot freight arrive at, and are 
re-shipped from this station on wagons, for 
the various mining districts to the north 
an I south. 

Another important business that has 
sprung up at Elko, within the last few 
years, is cattle-raising. Elko county con- 
tains more cattle than any other two coun- 
ties in the State, and Elko ships more 
cattle than any four stations on the road, 
being amply provided with all the facilities 
— roomy yards, shutes, elc, for a busi- 
ness that is rapidly increasing, and is des- 
tined, before many years, to far exceed all 
others in the State. 

This section is well watered by rapid 
mountain streams, and the country abounds 
in game of all kinds — a hunter's paradise. 
The valley of the Humboldt, for twenty 
miles above and below Elko, cannot be 
ranked as amongthe bestof its bottom-lands, 
though it is susceptible of cultivation to 
a considerable degree. But a narrow strip 
is meadow, the remainder being higher, 
gravelly land, covered with sage-brush and 
bunch-grass. Without irrigation it is use- 
less for agricultural piurposes. 

Passing down from Elko — the valley 
dotted with the hamlets of the rancher 
for about nine miles — we come opposite 
the South Fork of the Humboldt. This 
stream rises about 100 miles to the south- 
east. It canyons through Ruby Mountains, 
and then follows down the eastern side 
of one of the numerous ranges, which, 



128 



I'ACIFIC COAST GUIDK. 



uudcr llic general name of the Humboldt 
Mountains, intersect the country. 

For portions of the distance there is fine 
valley land along tlie stream, ranging from 
one to seven miles wide, adapted to early 
crops, but, as a body, it is inferior to cither 
the Main or Nortli Fork valleys. How- 
ever, the land is ail admirably adapted lor 
grazing purjiosej. 

Moieen — is a signal station, ll.8m les 
west of Elko. After leaving this station 
the valley presents a changed appearance. 
The meadow lands are broad and green, 
extending over most of the valley; on the 
right the blufl's arc high and covered witli 
luxuriant bunch-grass. Soon the meadows 
are almost entirely closed out, and we en- 
ter Five ]\Iile Canyon. Through this the 
river runs C[uite rapidly, ils clear waters 
sparkling in the sunlight as they speed 
along, while occasional narrow strips of 
meadow land are to be seen at times. 

The scenery along this canyon is liardly 
surpassed by the bold and varied panorama 
presented to our view along the base of the 
snow-capped mountains through which the 
river and railroad have forced their way. 
Soon after entering the canyon we pass 
several isolated towers of conglomerate 
rock, towering to the height of nearly 200 
feet. Leaving this canyon, we find Susan 
Valley, anotlaer strip of good bottom 
land, about twenty miles long, by four 
wide, bordering the East Fork of Maggie's 
Creek. Among the foot-hills of Owyhee 
Itange, to the northward, are many beauti- 
ful, little va leys, well watered by moun- 
tain streams, waiting only the advent of 
the settler to transform them into pleas- 
ant homes. Timber is ]ileauty in the ra- 
vines and on the hill-sides— sufUcient for 
the wants of a large population. Passing 
on to near the next station, we cross Mag- 
gie's Creek, which empties into the Hum- 
boldt from the north. This stream is 
named for a beautiful Scotch girl, who, 
with her parents, stayed here for a time "re- 
cruiting their stock " in the old times 
when the early emigrants toiled ahmg the 
river. It rises in the Owyhee Mountains, 
about 8Q miles to tlie nortliward. 

The valley through which the stream 
flows is from three to five miles wide and 
very rich. It extends to the base of the 
mountains, about 70 miles, and is now 
mostly occupied by stockmen. The 
stream atfords excellent trout fishing, and 
game of various kinds abounds on the hills 
bordering the valley. Some time since, 



a wagon road was sui*veyed and located up 
this valley to Idaho Territory. 
From IMoleen, it is 11.6 miles to 
Cai'lill — This is quite a busy station, 
of about 000 poiDulation. Here are located 
the offices of Humboldt Division, and 
the division Avorkshops. The latter are of 
wood and consist of a round-house of 16 
stalls, a machine, car and blacksmith shop. 
The railroad was completed to this place 
Dec. 20, 18U8. 

To the south of Carlin, from lo to GO 
miles, are located mil es rich in gold, sil- 
ver, copper and iron. To the northward, 
rich discoveries have been made, extend- 
ing to the Owyhee coui .try. In both these 
sections new mining districts have been 
located, and the attenViou ( f experitnced 
capitalists is being attracted thereto. 

Mary's Creek — rises three miles north 
and enters the Humboldt at Car. in. It 
rises in a. beautiful lakelet nestled among 
the hills and bordered by a narrow slip of 
fine valley laud. The valley of the stream, 
and that portion surrounding its head 
waters, is occupied by settlers. 

Proceeding down the river from Carlin, 
for some distance the green lueadosss con- 
tinue fair and wide ; then the sloping hills 
give place uO lofty mountains, which close 
in on either hancl, shutting out the valley. 
From the appearance of this mountain 
range one would suppose that it had ex- 
tended across the valley at one time, form- 
ing a vast lake of the waters of the river, 
then some mighty convulsion of nature 
rent the solid wall asunder, forming a pas- 
sage for the waters which wash the base of 
the clifts, which are from 500 to 1,000 feet 
high. This place is generally known as 
"r H E Palisades — Humboldt or 
Twelve Mile Canyon, although it does not 
possess points of interest with Echo or 
Weber canyons, in many particulars 
the scenery is equally grand. The ab- 
senceof varied colors may urgeagainst 
its claims to equal with those places, 
but, on the other hancl, its bleak, bare, 
brown walls have a majestic, gloomy 
grandeur, which coloring could not 
improve. In passmg clown this canyon, we 
seem t) pass between two walls which 
threaten to close together ere we shall gain 
the outlet. The river rolls at our feet a rapid, 
boiling current, tossed from side to side of 
the gorge by the rocks, wasting its fury in 
vain attempts to break away its prison 
walls. The walls in places have crum- 
bled, and large masses of crushed rocks 



C:K0FUTT S NEAX' OVlillLAND TOURIST 



129 



slope down to the river brink. Seams of 
iron ore and copper-bearing rock break 
the monotony of color, showing the exist- 
ence of large deposits of these materials 
among these brown old mount i ins. Now 
we pvxss "Red Cliff," wliich rears its bat- 
tered frontlet 800 feet above the water. A 
colony of swallows have taken possession 
of the rock, and built their curious nests 
upon its face. From out their mud pal- 
aces they look down upon us, no doubt 
wondering about the great monster rushing 
past, and after he has disappeared, gossip- 
ing among themselves of the good old 
times wlien his presence was unknown in 
tlie canyon. Now we pass "Maggie's 
Bower," a brown arch on the face of the 
cliff, about 500 feet from its base. We 
could not see much bower- unless it was 
the left bower, for we left it behind us. 

Twisting in and around these projecting 
cliffs, 9.1 miles from Carlin, we reach 

Palisade — a station, in the midst of 
the Palisade?, and apparently locked in on 
all sides. This is a busy place for a small 
one of only 200 population, as it is the 
junction of the Eureka & Palisade rail- 
road, where are located their machine and 
workshops. Most of the box and flat cars 
of this company are made here in their 
own shops. The amount of freight han- 
dled at this station is enormous. Passen- 
gers can, almost always, see large piles of 
base bullion pigs piled up at the freight 
house, awaiting shipment. This bullion is 
mostly freighted here from the smelting 
furnaces at Eureka, by the Eureka and 
Palisade railroad, which alone handled 
over 35,000.000 pounds annually. 

One great item of freight taken ciown 
over this road— the E. &. P.— is timber 
from the Sierra Nevada Mountains, for use 
in timbering up the mines at Eureka. 

Palisade, beside the machine shops 
above named, has several large build- 
ings, used by the Railroad Company, for 
freights and storage and one a fine, com- 
modious passenger station; these with 
several stores, hotels, restaurants and 
saloons make up the town. 

The station is supplied with water from 
a huge tank, situated upon the mountain 
side, to the north, 300 feet above the sta- 
tion. This tank in turn is supplied from 
springs situated further up the mountain, 
that never fail in their supply. 

Now, as we started out to see what was 
worth seeing, let us take a run down over 
9 



the road that comes in here and note what 
can be seen. 



£areka ^ Palisade Railroad. 

Princijjal Office, Eureka, Nevada. 

&. Mills, President, Eureka. 

P. EvEKTs GenH SupH Eureka. 

J. L. FA8T GenH F. P. & T. Agt... Palisade. 

This road is a three-foot narrow gauge, 
commenced in December, 1873, and com- 
pleted to Eureka in October, 1874, and is 
90 miles in length. Passenger trains leave 
for the South on arrival of trains on the 
Central, and arrive in time to connect for 
either the East or West. The trains make 
full 20 miles an hour, and the cars are as 
commodious and nice as on any road in 
this country. 

Leaving Palisade we cross the Humboldt 
River and start for the West, the C. P. on 
the north side of the river and our little 
train on the south side. But a few him- 
dred yards from the station we curve 
around to the left, while the C. P. makes a 
similar one to the right and is soon lost to 
view. The general course of our train is 
south, following up Pine Valley, which is, 
for the first ten miles, covered with sage- 
brush—as is also the surrounding hills. 

Bullion — is the first station on the bills, 
eight miles from Palisade, but we pass it, 
and the valley widens and 4.25 miles fur- 
ther is over one mile in width. Now our 
train is at 

EvAKS — a simple side-track, important 
only to a few settlers near, who are culti- 
vating small fields and watching herds of 
cattle and sheep, which find good ranges on 
the hills, ravines, and neighboring valleys. 
Some fields are fenced, for the protection 
of the grass, which is cut for hay. The 
Cortez Mountains are on the west — the 
right side — and the Diamond range on the 
left. 

Willard's — is 15 miles from Palisade, 
and four miles from 

Hay Ranch — This station is the first 
from Palisade where anything like busi- 
ness is to be seen. Here the Railroad Com- 
pany have 2,500 acres of bottom land 
fenced, on which they cut annually about 
1,000 tons of hay, which they bale and 
store away in those long warehouses to be 
seen on the right of the road. The com- 
pany run freight teams from the end of 
their road at Eureka, and — in connection 
with it — to Pioche and all intermediate 
places. These teams are composed of 18 
mules each, with three and sometimes four 



130 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 




AMERICAN RIVER CANYON. 

Near Shady Run, Sie ra Nevada Muuutain=. 



wagons coupled together — as illustrated on 
page 28 — employing from 300 to 400 mules, 
each team hauling from 30,000 to 40,000 
lbs. In Avinter, when their mules are not 
in use, they are kept at this station, and 
the hay is harvested by the company and 
used for their own stock. 

Continuing on up the valley 9.31 miles, 
we come to 

Box Springs — but trains do not stop 
only on signal, and nine miles further 
stop at 

Mineral — This is a regular eating sta- 
tion, and in fact is the only one on the road. 
The meals cost fl.OO, and are of the sub- 
stantial order, that makes bone and sinew. 

To the east is located the Mineral Hill 
Mine, once the most productive' in the 
State, but it proved to be a " pocket " and 
the original owners, after taking out sev- 
eral millions of dollars, sold their mine to 
an English company — who, until within 
the las^ year, have allowed it to remain 



trood 



idle. It is now being worked with 
prospects. 

From Mineral, it is 5.5 miles to 

Deep Wells — so named for a deep well 
that was dug near by, to jirocure water for 
the freight teams that were in the habit of 
traveling this ri>ad. The enterprising "Pil- 
grim" who dug the well was wont to charge 
$1.00 for sufficient water to water an 18 
mule team, or " four skins full for a quar- 
ter." 

From Deep Wells the route is over a 
sage-brush country, rough and bluffy, for 
seven miles, to 

Alpha— a small station, near where 
kilns of charcoal are burned for use at the 
smelting furnaces. To the west of this 
station is a broad valley, OA^er M'hich range 
large herds of cattle. Willow Creek, a 
small stream, is crossed, and ten miles from 
Alpha is 

Pine Station — another place where 
charcoal burning is the principal busi- 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



]3I 



ness. Cedar trees are noticeable along on 
the blufls as we pass by ; sage is abund- 
ant, and jack-rabbits are numerous and 
very large — they call them " narrow-gauge 
muk^s " in this country. 

Cedak — is the next station, three anci-a- 
half miles from Pine. The country is 
rougli and broken, and sage predominates; 
the grade is heavy and the road crooked — 
twisting and turning for 7.5 miles to 

Summit — a station on the dividing ridge 
between Pine Yalley on the west and Dia- 
mond Valley on the east. The face of the 
country is not very inviting, except for 
those " narrow-gauge mules." Near the 
summit the old overland stage road crosses 
from Jacob's Wells on the east to Austin 
on the west. 

From the summit the road enters Dia- 
mond Valley, and follows it up to Eureka, 
the road making, between Summit and 

Gardner Pass — six miles from Summit 
— a great horse-shoe curve, and fairlj" 
doubling back upon itself to get around 
the projecting spurs that shoot out from 
the range of liigli bluffs on each side. 

Contiiltting along up the narrow valley 
nine miles, we reach 

D I A M o N D — an unimportant statio i, 
and another run of twelve miles brings our 
train to the end of the road at 

£ni*el«.a — This city is 90 miles south 
of Palisade, and contains, witli the near 
surroundings, a population of 6,000, nearly 
all of whom are engaged in mining and de- 
pendent pursuits. Besides the usual num- 
ber of stores, hotels and small shops, there 
are two 30-stamp mills, seven smelting 
works and 16 furnaces, with a capacity of 
50 tons of ore each, daily. These extensive 
establishments, running night and daj', 
make business pretty livelj'^ and will ac- 
count for the quantities of base bullion 
hauled over the railroad to Palisade, as 
above noticed. Of the hotels, the Jackson 
and the Parker are the i^rincipal ones. 
There are two daily papers, the Sentinel 
and the Republican. 

The Ruby Hill railroad, really an ex- 
tention of the Eureka & Palisade, runs 
from the depot at Eureka around the A^arious 
smelting and refining works and mines of 
the different mining companies, and around 
Eureka, delivering freight and handling 
ores. This road is about six miles in 
length. Tlie most prominent mines at 
Eureka are Eureka Consolidated, Rich- 
mond Consolidated, the K. K., the Jack- 
son, Hamburg, Matamoras and Atlas. 



Stages connect at Eureka, carrying pas- 
sengers, mails and express to the various 
mining towns and camps in the adjoining 
country; to Hami]ton, 40 miles, dail}^, 
which runs through 'the AVard and Pioche; 
districts to Ward, 100 miles; Pioche, 190 
miles ; to Tybo, 100 miles ; Austin, SO miles ; 
tri-weekly stage to Belmont, 100 miles. 

The freighiing business to Pioclie and 
all intermediate towns and camps is very 
extensive, most of which is hauled by the 
Railroad Company's teams, as previously 
stated. 

The White Pixe Country, is sit- 
uated to ihe soutlieast from Eureka, tlie 
principal city of which is 

Hamilton — This city contains a pop- 
ulation of about 800, all of whom are en- 
gaged in the mining business. Milling 
and smeltingare the only occupations, there 
being two smelters and six mills. An 
English company is now engaged running 
a tunnel under Treasure Hill, to strike the 
great mineral deposit known to be there. 
This tunnel, when com])]eted, will be 6,000 
feet long— 7x9 feet, double track, " T " rail 
— and will tap the mines at a depth of 
1 600 feet. It is now completed about 
3,000 feet. Hamilton had one weekly 
newspaper— the JVncs. 

White Pine — is nearly due east of Vir- 
ginia Cily, where the first silvei mining ex- 
citement occurred on the Pacific slope, and 
by many is supposed to be on the same 
range which produced the Comstock and 
other famous lodes. Possibly such is the 
case, though "ranges " have been terribly 
shaken about in this section of our countiy. 

The Eberhardtmine, which first attracted 
attention to this locality, was discovered in 
1806, but the great stampede of miners and 
speculatore to that quarter did not take 
place until the winter and spring of 1869. 
As far as prospected, the veins, in a ma- 
jority of cases, are not regular, being broken 
and turned in every direction. Some are 
flat, others dip at a' regular angle and have 
solid walls. The Base Metal Range in 
this vicinity is very extensive, and a num- 
ber of furnaces have been erected to reduce 
the ores into base bullion for shipment. 
For items of interest see Annex No. 30. 

We will now return to f alisade, and re- 
sume our place in the C. P. cars. Passing 
down the canj^on, winding and twisting 
along around a succession of projecting 
spurs, we pass the "Devil's Peak," on the 
opposite side of the river, a perpendicular 
rock, probably 500 feet high, rising from 



132 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE, 



the water's edge. On, past the towering 
bluffs and castellated rocks— which, at first 
view, look like some old brown castle, for- 
sakeji by its founders and left to ruin, deso- 
lation and decay— we cross the river on a 
fine Howe truss bridge ; and from this point 
we shall keep on the southern side of the 
stream until we near Humboldt Lake, 
when we cross it again, and for the last 
time. 

Clnro— is a flag station, 10.4 miles 
west of Palisade, reached just after emerg- 
ing from the canyon. We now enter a 
more open country, with strips of meadow 
along the river's brink. Near this point 
is where the powder magazine of the rail- 
road company exploded in lf?68, while the 
road w^s building through the canyon. 

North of the river, at the point on the 
opposite side, can be seen a peculiar for- 
mation, not seen elsewhere in the canyon. 
Where the road is cut through these points, 
they consist of gravel, sand and cement, 
having all the appearance of gold-bearing 
gravel-beds. It is an unmistakable water- 
wash, and not caused by volcanic wear — 
fine layers of sand, from one to five feet 
thick, and interspersed through the gravel, 
showing where the water rested and the 
sediment settled. 

Gkavelly Ford— one of the most no- 
ted points on the Humboldt River in early 
days, is near Cluro. Then the canyon 
through which we have just passed was 
impassable. The long lines of emigrant 
wagons could not pass through the mighty 
chasm, but were obliged to turn and toil 
over the mountains until they could de- 
scend into the valley again. Coming to 
this point on the south side of the river, 
they crossed and followed up a slope of the 
opposite hills, thence along the table-land, 
and from thence to the valley above. A 
few would leave the river lower down and 
bear away to the south, but the i>.ad was 
long and rough before they reached the 
valley above the canyon. There were and 
now are other fords on the river, lower 
down, but none were as safe as this. With 
sloping gravelly banks and a hard gravel 
bottom, it oftered superior advantages to 
the emigrant. Hence it became a noted 
place — the point to which the westward- 
bound emigrants looked forward with great 
interest. Here was excellent grazing for 
their travel-worn teams. Owing to these con- 
siderations, large bodies of emigrants were 
often encamped here for weeks. At times 
the river would be too high, and they 



would wait for the torrent to subside. The 
Indians — Shoshones — knew this also, and 
many a skirmish took phice between them 
and their white brothers, caused by m istaken 
ideas regarding the ownership of the emi- 
grant's stock. 

Connected with this place is an incident 
Vidiich, for the honor of the men who per- 
formed the Christian act, we will relate: 

In the early times spoken of, a party of 
emigrants were encamped here, waiting for 
the water to subside. Among these emi- 
grants were many women and children. 
While here, an estimable young lady of 18 
years fell sick, and despite the watchful 
care and loving tenderness of friends and 
kindred, her pure spirit floated into that 
unknown mist, dividing the real from the 
ideal, the mortal from the immortal. Her 
friends reared an humble head-board to her 
memory, and, in course of time — amid 
the new life opening to them on the Pacific 
slope — the young girl's fate and grave were 
alike forgotten by all but her immediate 
relatives." When the advance guard of the 
Central railroad — the graders and culvert 
men— came to Gravelly Ford, they found 
the lone grave and fast-decaying head- 
board. The site awoke the finer feelings 
of their nature and aroused their sympa- 
thies, for they were we/i, these brown, toil- 
stained laborers. 

The " culvert men " (masons) concluded 
that it was not consistent with Christian 
usage to leave a grave exposed and unde- 
fended from the incursion of beasts of prey. 
With such men, to think was to act, and in 
a few days the lone grave was enclosed 
with a solid wall, and a cross— the sacred 
emblem of immortality — took the place of 
the old head-board. In the day when the 
final reckoning between these men and the 
recording angel is adjusted, we think they 
will find a credit for that deed which will 
ofl'set many little debits in the ledger of 
good and .\ il. Perhaps a fair spirit above 
may smile a blessing on their lives in rec- 
ompense of the noble deed. The grave is 
on the south side of the road, upon a low 
bluff, about five miles west of Cluro. In 
October, 1871, the Superintendent of the 
Division erected over it a fine large cross. 



" Corral," (Spanish) a pen made of posts set 
on end in the ground close together, and fastened 
with rawhide thongs, or by wagons drawn in a 
circle forming an inclosure. 

Telegraph Operators are called " lightning 
ghovers." 

OuTFiT-Necessary supplies for a journey. 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



133 



Upon one side is inscribed " The Mai- 
den's GiiAVE," on the other, her name, 
"Luciuda Duncan." 




Passing on, we cross narrow patches of 
meadow land, and wind around the base 
of low hills until we reach a broad valley. 
Across tlie river to the northward can be 
seen the long, unbroken slopes which 
stretch away until they are lost in that cold 
blue line — the Idaho Mountains — which 
rises against the northern sky. Behind that 
gray old peak, whi^li is barely discernible, 
the head waters of the North Fork of the 
Humboldt break away when starting on 
their journey for the main river. Farther 
to the left, and nearer, from among tliat 
darker clump of hills Maggie's Creek 
finds its source. 

Be-0-wa-'»ve — is reached at a narrow 
point called Copper Canyon, 8.7 miles 
from Cluro. 

The Cortez mines and mihs are situated 
about ;_5 miles south of this station, witli 
which lliey are connected by a good road. 
At this point the Red Eange throws a spur 
nearly across the valley, cutting it in two. 
It hDoks as tliougli the spur extended clear 
across, at one time, damming up the waters 
of the river, as at the Palisades. The 
water-wash far up the hillside is in evi- 
dence of the theory that sucli was once the 
case, and that the waters cut this narrow 
gorge, through which they speed along 
unmindful of the mighty work done in for- 
mer years, when the resistless current 
" forced a highway to the sea," and drained 



a mighty lake, leaving in its place green 
meadows. 

Here, on this red ridge, is tlie dividing 
line between the Shoshones and the Piutes, 
two tribes of Indians who seemed to be 
created for tlie express purpose of worry- 
ing emigrants, stealing stock, eating grass- 
hoppers, and preying on themselves and 
everybody else. The Shoshones are very 
degraded Indians, and until recently, were 
like the Ishmaelites or Pariahs of old — 
their hand was against every man, and 
every man's hand was compelled, in self- 
defense, to be against them until they be- 
came almost unable to commit depreda- 
tions, and could make more by begging 
than Ihey could by stealing. The term Be-o- 
wa-we signifies gate, and it is literal in its 
significance. 

After leaA'ing Be-o-wa-we, we pass 
through the gate, and wind along by the 
hillside, over the low meadows, which here 
are very narrow. The " bottom " is broad, 
but is covered with willows, with the ex- 
ception of the narrow meadows spoken of. 
Amid these willows the stream winds and 
twists about through innumerable sloughs 
and creeks, as though undecided whether 
to leave this shady retreat for the barren 
plains below. Perhaps the traveler will 
see a flock of pelicans disporting in the 
waters on their return from their daily 
fishing exursion to Humboldt Lake. 
These birds, at certain seasonsof the year, are 
to be Ibuud here and there along the i-iver 
for about 20 miles below, in great numbers. 
They build their nests in these willow 
islands and rear the-ir young undisturbed, 
for even an Indian cannot penetrate this 
swampy, treacherous fastness. Every 
morning the old birds can be seen taking 
their flight to Humboldt Lake, where, in 
its shallow waters, they load tliemselves 
with fish, returning towards night to feed 
their young and ramble about the bottom. 

Soon after leaving the station, Hot 
Spring Vallej^ comes in on the left — south 
—and by looking away to the south eight 
miles, can be seen columns of steam, from 
one of the m^ny "hot springs" which 
abound in the " Great Basin." 

If you do not behold the steam — for the . 
springs are not always in active operation 
— you will behold a long, yellowish, red 
line, stretching for a full half-mile around 
a barren hill-side. From this line boiling, 
muddy water and su phuric wash descends 
the hill-side, desolating everything in its 



134 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



course, its waters escaping through the 
bogs of the valley. 

Bometiines for hours these springs are 
inactive, then come little putfs of steam, 
then loug and freqi;ent jets, which often 
shoot 30 feet high. The waters are very 
hot. Woe to the unlucky liombre who 
gets near and to the windward of one of 
these springs, whe 1 it sends forlli a col- 
umn of spray, steam and muddy sulphur 
water from 20 to 30 feet in height. He will 
need a change of clothes, some simple 
cerate, a few days' rest, and the prayers of 
his friends — as well as of the congregation. 
There are over 100 of these spurting, bub- 
bling, sulphuric curiosities around the 
hills in this vicinity. The. general charac- 
ter of all are about the same. 

There are a great many theories regard- 
ing these springs — what causes the heat, 
etc. Some contend that the water escapes 
from the regions of eternal fires, wliich are 
supposed to be ever burning in the center 
of the globe. Others assert that it is min- 
eral in solution with the water which 
causes the heat. Again, irreverent persons 
suggest that this part of the country is but 
the roof of a peculiar place to which they 
may well fear their wicked deeds may 
doom them in the future. 

Shoshone— is ten miles west of Be- 
o-wa-we ; elevation 4,636 feet. Across the 
river to the right is Battle Mountain, 
which rises up clear and sharp from the 
river's brink. It seems near, but between 
us and its southern base is a wide bottom 
land and the river, which here really 
" spreads itself" We saw the same point 
wh n emerging from Be-o-wa-we, or "the 
gate," and it will continue in sight for 
many miles. 

This mountain derives its name from an 
Indian fight, the particulars of which will 
be related hereafter. There are several 
ranges near by, all bearing the same gene- 
ral name. This range being the most 
prominent, deserves a passing notice. It 
lies north of the river, between the Owyhee 
Range on the north and the Reese River 
Mountains on the south. Its base is 
washed by the river its entire Lmgth — 
from 50 to 75 miles. It presents an al- 
most unbroken surface and even altitude 
the entire distance. In places it lises in 
bold bluffs, in others it slopes aw^ay from 
base to summit, Itut in each case the same 
altitude is reached. It is about 1,500 feet 
high, the top or summit appearing to be 
table-land. Silver and copper mines have 



been prospec'ed with good results. 

Behind this lange are wide valleys, 
wdiich slope away to the river at either 
end of the range, leaving it comparatively 
isolated. 

Opposite to Shoshone, Rock Creek emp- 
ties its waters into the Humboldt. It rises 
about 40 miles to the northward, and is 
bordered by a beautiful valley about foi;r 
miles wide. The stream is well stocked 
with fish, among which are the mountain 
tront. In the country around the head- 
waters of the stream is found plenty of 
game of various kinds, including deer and 
bear. 

Copper mines of vast size and great rich- 
ness are found in the valley of Rock Creek, 
and among the adjoining hills. Whenever 
the copper interest becomes of sufficient 
importance to warrant the Opening of these 
mines, this section will prove one of great 
importance. 

Leaving Shoshone, we pursue our way 
down theriver, the road leading back from 
the meadow land and passing along an 
upland, covered with sage-brush. The 
hills on our left are smooth and covered 
with a good coat of bunch-grass, affording 
most excellent pasturage for stock, sum- 
mer and winter. 

Argeiita — is 11.1 miles further west. 
This was formerly a regular eating station 
and the di>tributing point for Austin and 
the Reese River country ; but isnown sim- 
ple side-track. Paradise Valley lies on the 
north side of the river, nearly opposite this 
station. It is about 60 miles long. by eight 
wide, very fertile and thickly settled. 
Eden Valley, the northern part of Para- 
dise Valley, is about 20 miles long and 
five wide. In general features it resembles 
the l(;wer portion, the whole, comprising 
one of the richest farming .sections in the 
State. Camp Scott and Santa Rosa are 
situated in the head of the valley, and 
other small towns have sprung up at other 
points. 

Paradise Creek is a clear, cold mountain 
stream, upon which are a number of grist 
and saw mills. It rises in the Owyhee 
Mountains and flows through these valleys 
to the Humboldt River. Salmon trout of 
enormous size are found in the stream and 
its tributaries. Bears, deer, silvei'-gray 
foxes, and other game, aboun<.l on the hills 
which border the valley. 

These valleys — the Humboldt for 50 
miles east and west, and the adjoining 
mountains — are the stock-raisers' paradise. 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



135 



Tens of thousands of cattle are now room- 
ing along the Humboldt and adjoining 
valleys, and surrounding hills. It is com- 
puted that there are not less than 3.")0 000 
head between Promontory Mountain and the 
Sierra Nevada Moimtains. One lii'm near 
this station has over 40,000 head, and one 
range fenced of 28,000 acres. 

A few miles after leaving Argenta, Reese 
River Valley joins the Humboldt — coming 
in from the south. It is very diversified 
in feature, being very wide at some points 
— from seven to ten miles — and then dwin- 
dling down to narrow strii^s of meadow or 
barren sand. Some portions of the valley 
are susceptible of cultivation, and posses.^ 
an excellent soil. Other portions are bar- 
ren sand and gravel wastes, on which only 
the sage-brush flourishes. This valley 
is also known by old emigrants as " Whirl- 
wind Valley," and passengers will fre- 
quently see columns of dust ascending 
skywards. Reese River, which flows 
through this valley, rises to the south, 180 
to 200 miles distant. It has many tribu- 
taries, which find their source in the moun- 
tain ranges that extend on either side of 
the river its entire length. It sinks in the 
valley about 20 or 30 miles before reach- 
ing the Humboldt. During the winter 
and spring floods, the waters reach the 
Humboldt, but only in very wet times. 

Near where Reese River sinks in the 
valley was fought the celebrated battle be- 
tween the Whites and Indians— settlers and 
emigrants, 30 years ago — which gave the 
general name of Battle Mountain to these 
ranges. A party of marauding Shoshone 
Indians had stolen a lot of stock from the 
emigrants and settlers, who banded them- 
selves together and gave chase. They over- 
took them at this point, and the fight com- 
menced. From point to point, from rock 
to rock, down to the water's edge they drove 
the red skins, who, finding themselves sur 
rounded, fought with the stubbornness of 
despair. When night closed in, the set- 
tlers found themselves in possession of 
their slock and a hard-fought field. How 
many Indians emigrated to the Happy 
Hunting Grounds of the spirits no one 
knew, but from this time forward the 
power of the tribe was broken. 
From ..'Vrgenta, it is 11.8 miles to 
Battle Mf onntain— This is a din- 
ner station for passenger trains frouL both 
the East and West, where trains stop 30 
minutes. The waiters are Chinese, and 
very lively whi'e serving a good meal 



Water for the little fountain in front of 
the Battle Mountain House, the rail- 
road, and the town, is conducted in 
pipes from a big spring' in the side of 
the mountain, three miles to the south. 

Battle mountain is the distributing' 
point for a great number of mining 
districts, towns and camps, both north 
and south of the road. 

Stages and fast freight lines leave 
daily for the northward : To Tuscaro- 
ra, 68 miles; Rock Creek, 80 miles; 
Cornucopia, 100 miles. The shipments 
from Battle Mountain Station average 
over 500 tons per month, and is in- 
creasing. 

The surrounding country is alive 
with herds of cattle, particularly on 
the north side of the river, and this 
place has become quite a point for 
cattle buyers from California to con- 
gregate. 

li'evada Central Railway. 

General Offices, Battle Mountain. 
S. H. H. Clark, (of the U. P. B. R.) President. 

This is a three-foot narrow gauge, 
organized September 2, d 1879, comple- 
ted the December following, and sold 
to Union Pacific parties in the Sum- 
mer of 1881. Its general course is to 
the southward, up the valley of Reese 
River, 93 miles to Austin. The grades 
are easy, and the country tributary- 
rich in mines, agricultural lands, cat- 
tle and sheep. The principal stations 
and distances between, are : Galena, 
11 miles; Mound Springs, 10 miles; 
Bridges', 22 miles; Walters', 13 miles; 
Hallsvale, 10 miles; Caton's, 10 miles; 
Ledlies', 10 miles; Austin, 7 miles. 
There are twenty mining districts tri- 
butary to this road, among which are 
Battle Mountain, Galena, Austin,Lew- 
is, Reese River, Washington, Kinsley, 
Dun Glen, Cortez, Diamond, Hum- 
boldt, Grass Valley and Belmont. In 
all these districts rich mines are being 
worked ; stamp mills and smelting fur- 
naces are numerous. Railroads and 
low freights have resulted in vigorous 
development and better machinery. 

Stage connections are made at sev- 
eral points on the road, and at Austin 
for all points in Central and Southern 
Nevada. 

Austin— is situated near the sum- 
mit of the Toiyabe Range, on the 
ground where the first silver ore 
was discovered in tliis district, in 
May, 1862. The discoverer, W. 



136 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



M. Talcott, located the 
vein andnamed it Poney. 
As soon as it beca.ne 
known, prospectors 
flocked in, and the coun- 
try was pretty thorough- 
ly prospected durini? 
1802 and 18G3. Many 
veins were located, some 
of them proving very 
valuable. Mills were 
erected at different 
points, and from that 
time forward the dis- 
trict has been in a pros- 
perous condiiioq. 

Austin contains a pop- 
ulation of about 2,000, 
nearly all of whom 
are engaged in mining 
operations. The town 
has some extensive 
stores and does a very 
large business in the 
way of furnishing sup- 
plies for the mining- 
camps surrounding it, 
for fromSO to 100 miles. 
The Beese River R-.veille 
is a live daily pub- 
lished here. To the south of Battle 
Mountain Station, about 20 miles, are 
several hot springs, strongly impreg- 
nated with sulphur and other minerals, 
but they attract no particular attention, 
being too common to excite curiosity. 
Leaving the station we skirt the base of 
the mountains to the left, leaving the river 
far to our right over against the base of 
Battle Mountain. We are now in the wid- 
est part of the valley, about opposite the 
Big Bend of the Humboldt. 

After passing the Palisades the river in- 
clines to the south for aboutSO miles, when 
it sweeps away to the north, along the base 
of Battle Mountain, for 30 miles further; 
then turning nearl}^ due s uth, it follows 
that direction until it discharges its waters 
in Humboldt Lake, about 50 miles by the 
river course from the great elbow, forming 
a vast semi-circle, washed by its waters for 
three-fourths of the circumference. This 
vast area of land, or most of it, comprising 
many tliousand acres of level upland, bor- 
derea by green meadows, is susceptible of 
cultivation when irrigated. The sage- 
brush grows luxuriantly, and where the 
alkali beds ilo not appear, the soil ]:)roduces 
a good crop of bunch-grass. The road 




TRLCKEE RIVER. 

takes the short side of the semi-circle 
keeping close to the foot of the isolated 
Humboldt Spur. On the opposite side of 
the river, behind the Battle Mountain 
Range, are several valleys, watered by the 
mountain streams, and atibrding a large 
area of first-class farming land. Chief 
among these is Quinn's Valley, watered 
by the river of that name. The arable 
portion of the valley is about 75 miles long, 
ranging in width from three to seven miles. 
It is a tine body of valley land, capable of 
producing lux'uriant crops of grain, grass 
or vegetables. The hills which enclose it 
afford excellent pasturage. Timber of va- 
rious qualities — spruce and pine predomi- 
nating — is found in the gulches and ravines 
of the mountains. 

Quinn's Rivei, which flows through this 
valley, is a large stream rising in the St. 
Rosa Hills of the Owyhee range, about 150 
miles distant. From'its source the general 
cour-e of tlie river is due south for about 
80 miles, when it turns and runs due west 
until it reaches IMud Lake. During the 
summer but little, if any, of its waters 
reach that place, being absorbed by the 
barren ])lain which lies between the foot- 
hills and the Humboldt River. Near the 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



137 



head-waters of Quinn's River, the Crooked 
Creek, or Antelope, rises aud flows dvie 
north for about 50 miles, when it empties 
its waters into the Owyhee River. The 
head-waters of the streams which run from 
the southern slops of the Ou'j'hee Moun- 
tains are well supplied with salmon and 
trout, and olher varieties of fish. Quail, 
grouse, and four-footed game are abundant 
in the valleys and timbered mountains. 

Pinte— is 4.9 miles west of Battle 
Mountain Station. Here passenger trains 
from the east, and west meet. 

Coin — a flag station, is 7.8 miles west 
of Piute. 

Stone Honse— is 7.1 m'les further. 
This place Avas once an old trading post, 
strongly fortified against Indian attacks. 
The Stone House stood at the foot of an ab- 
rupt hill, by the side of a spring of excel- 
lent water, but is now a mass of ruins. To 
the south of this station are more of the 
many hot springs that abound in the Ne- 
vada Basin. 

We cross a broad sage-brush bottom, the 
soil of which in places is sandy and in 
others alkaline, and then wind along around 
the base of a mountain spur that shoots 
away to the northward, and come to 

Iron Point — a small side-track, 12.4 
miles from Stone House. Here are located 
a few cattle-yards and shutes for loading 
cattle. At this station the bluff's draw 
close and high on each side, with the river 
and a narrow strip of meadow land on the 
right. After passing around the point aud 
through numerous cuts for two miles, the 
canyon widens into a valley for several 
miles, then closes in, and the train passes 
around another rocky point into another 
valley, and stops at 

Golconda— a station 11.4 miles from 
Iron Point. This is a small station with a 
few good buildings. Large herds of cattle 
range near by in the surrounding valleys, 
and on the bluffs. Rich mines of gold 
and silver are located both to the north 
and south; one, the Golconda mine and 
mill, only three miles distant to the south. 
Close to the west of the slation, under the 
edge of the bluff" on the right, are located 
some hot springs. Here some of the set 
tiers— as at Springville, Utah— use the hot 
water for their advantage— one for milling 
the other for stimulating the soil. 

Continuing our journey, we pass over a 
broad sage brush plain, with wide mead- 
ows beyond, for 10.9 miles to 



Tule — an unimportant station. Pass- 
ing on down the valley we skirt the hills 
on our left, drawing still closer, in some 
places the spurs reaching to the track. On 
our left is an open ing in the hills, from 
whence a canyon opens out near the road- 
side. It is about five miles long, contain- 
ing living springs. Here were discovered 
the first mines in this part of Nevada. In 
the spring of ISUO, Mr. Barbeau, who was 
herding stock for Coperning, discovered 
the silver ore, aud from this beginning, the 
prospecting was carried on with vigor, 
which resulted in locating many very val- 
uable bodies of ore. 

From Tule it is 5.8 miles to the end of 
the Humboldt division, at Winnemucca. 

Winneniucca — is the commence- 
ment of the Truckee Division. The station 
was named after a chief of the Piute In- 
dians who formerly resided here. Eleva- 
tion 4,3ol feet. Distance from Omaha 
1,451 miles; from San Francisco 463 
miles. 

Winnemucca is the county seat of Hum- 
boldt county, and is composed of what is 
known as the old and new towns, which, 
together, contain about 800 inhabitants. 
The old town is situated on the low land 
directly fronting the station, about 300 
j-ards distant. Though so near, it is hid 
from sight until yvju approach the bank 
and look over. The town contains about 
150 buildings of all sorts, among which are 
a fine new court-house, stamp mill, smelt- 
ing works, flouring mill, ami a good hotel, 
the Central Pacific. 

The buildings with few exceptions, are 
of wood, new, and like most of the railroad 
towns, more useful than ornamental. The 
company have located here the usual 
division work and repair shops, including 
a 16-stall round-house. They are built of 
wood in the most substantial manner, as 
are all the shops along the road. 

There is considerable mining going on 
around and near Winnemucca, and quite a 
number of mills and furnaces are in opera- 
tion, all of which are said to be doing well. 
In the Winnemucca Range, many lodes of 
silver-bearing ore have been located which 
promise a fair return for working. 

Stages leave here daily for Camp Mc- 
Dermott, 80 miles, fare $15; Paradise, 40 
miles, fare $5; Silver Cty, Idaho, 200 
miles, fare $40; Boise City, 255 miles, fare 
$40. Fast freight trains run from this 
station to all the above towns, and to the 
mining camps in the adjoining country. 



138 



CROFUTT S NEW OVEELAND TOURIST 










Cf^MD-WM 



HUMBOT pr HOUSF —See Next Page, 



The Silver State, a weekly newspa- 
per, is published here. Winnemucea 
is the great distributing point for a 
number of mining districts to the 
north and south, and does an exten- 
sive freighting business. Many herds 
of cattle and sheep range the adjacent 
country, and large numbers are 
brought here for shipment to Cali- 
fornia. 

Mud Lake— is about 59 miles west of 
this station, across the Humboldt, 
which here turns to the south, and is 
one of those peculiar lakes found in 
the great basin of Nevada. The lake 
receives the waters of Quinn's River 
and several smaller tributaries during 
the wetseason. Ithasno outlet, unless 
its connection with Pyramid and Win- 
nemucea lakes could be so designated. 
It is about 50 miles 'ongby 20 wide, in 
high water; in summer it dwindles 
down to a marshy tract of land and a 



large stagnant pool. At the head of 
the lake is Black Rock, a noted land-' 
mark in this part of the country. It is 
a bold, rocky headland, rising about 
1,800 feet above the lake, bleak, bare, 
and extending for several miles. It is 
an isolated peak in this desert waste, 
keeping solitary guard amid the sur- 
rounding desolation. 

Pyramid Lake — is about 20 miles 
south of Mud Lake, which receives the 
waters of Truckee River. It is about 
30 miles longby20 wide during the wet 
seasons. The quality of the water is 
superior to that of Mud Lake, though 
the water of all these lakes is more or 
less brackish. 

Winnemucca Lake — a few miles 
east of Pyramid Lake, is another 
stagnant pond, about fifteen miles 
long by ten Avide. This lake is con- 
nected with Pyramid Lake by a small 
stream, and that in turn with Mud 



]Vo. 43 Annex. Sierra Xevada Moun- 

tmanii'.— The large iUustration, No. 14, of the 
Sierras, is from a photograph, and affords a beau- 
tiful Tiew of the highest poiut of the Sierra Ne- 
vada Mouutaiua, passed over by the Central Pa- 



cific railroad. There are to be seen a succession 
of tunnels and snow-sheds, "which extend without 
a break for '2S miles ; below is the " Gem of the 
Sierras," Donner Lake. (For description, see 
jsages 155 and 156 of this book.) 



CROFUTT S XEW OVEKLAXD TOURIST 



13* 



Lake, but only during high water, when 
the streams flowing into them cause tliem 
to spread far over tlie low, sandy waste 
around them. 

Returning to Winnemucca, we resume 
our journey. The road be.. rs away to the 
southward, skirting the low hills which 
extend from I he Winnemucca Mountain 
toward Humboldt Lake. The general 
aspect of the countrj'', is sage and alkali on 
the bottoms, and sage and bunch-grass on 
the blurts. 

Rose Creek. — comes next, 8.88 miles, 
and 10 2 more, 

Raspberry Creek— Both the last 
named are uniniportant stations where pas- 
senger trains seldom stop. They are each 
named after creeks near the stations, but 
why one should be Rose Creek and the 
other Raspberry Creek, we never could 
learn. We saw no indication of roses or 
raspberries at either creek. But they d" 
have queer names for things in this 
country. Where they call a Jack rabbit a 
" narrow gauge mule," we are prepared to 
hear sage-brush called roses, and grease- 
wood raspberries. 

Mill i/ity — is 7.49 miles from Rasp- 
beny, and has some good buildings, among 
which is a tine hotel, close to the track on 
the right — and large freight warehouses ; 
also cattle pens and shutes for shipping 
cattle, great numbers of which roam over 
the bottoms and adjacent blurt's. Stages 
leave this station on arrival of the cars for 
Unionville, a thrifty and promising silver 
mining town, 18 miles distant to thesoulh- 
ward. 

Humboldt— 11.7 miles from Mill 
Cit}', is a regular eating station where 
trains for tlie West stop 30 minutes for 
supper, and those for the East tlie same 
time for breakfast. The meals are the best 
on ^lie road. 

Hce will be found the clearest, coldest 
mountain spring w^ater along the road, and 
viewing it as it shoots up from the fountain 
in front of the st.ition, one quite forgets the 
look of desolation observable on every 
side, and that tliis station Is on the edge of 
the great Nevada Desert, 

It is worth the while of any tourist who 
wishes to examine the wonders of nature 
to stop here iind remain for a few diys at 
leas!; — for one day will not suffice — although 
to the careless pa«ser-by the country ap- 
pears devoid of interest. Those w]i> wisli 
to delve into nature's mysteries can here fin 1 
pleasant and profitable employment. The 



whole sum of man's existence does not con. 
sist in mines, mills, merchandise and 
money. There are other ways of employ, 
lug the mind besides bending its energies 
to the accumulation of wealth ; there is still 
anotner God, miglitier than Mammon, wor- 
shiped by the few. Among tiie works of 
His hands — these barren plains, brown 
hills and curious lakes — the seeker after 
knowledge can find ample opportunities to 
gratify his taste. The singular formation 
of the soil, the lava deposits of a by-gone 
age, the fossil remains and marine evi- 
dences of past submersion, and, above all 
else, the grand and unsolved problem by 
which the waters that are continually pour- 
ing into this great basin are prevented from 
overflowing the low land around them, are 
objects worthy of the close attention and 
investigation of the scholar and philoso- 
plier. From this station, the noted points 
of the country are easy of access. 

Here one can observe the etlects of irri- 
gation on this sandy, sage-brush country. 
The garden at the station produces vege- 
tables, corn and fruittrees luxuriantly, and 
yet but a short time lias elapsed since it 
was covered with a rank growth of sage- 
brush. 

About seven milts to the northeast may 
be seen Star Peak, the highest point in the 
Humboldt Range, on which the snow con- 
tinues t j hold its icy sway the whole year 
round. Two and one-half miles southeast 
a' e the Humbold*^ mines — five in number — 
rich in gold and silver. The discovery of 
a borax mine near the station has been re- 
cently reported. Five miles to the north- 
west are the Lanson Meadow.-, on which 
are cut Immense quantities of as good 
grass as can be found in the country. 
Tliirty miles north are the new sulphur 
mines, where that suspicious mineral has 
been found in an almost pure state, and so 
hard that it requires to be blasted before it 
can be got out of the mine, and in quanti- 
ties sufficient to enable those operating the 
mine to ship from 20 to 30 car-loads a 
week to San Francisco. Leaving Hum- 
boldt, about one mile distant, on the right 
near the road, is another sulphur mine^ 
but it is undeveloped. 

Rye Patch— is 11.23 miles from Hum- 
boldt, named for a species of wild rye that 
grows luxuriantly on the moist ground 
near the station. 

To the left of the road, against the hilU 
side, is another hot spring, over who-e sur- 
face a cloud of vapor is generally floating^ 



140 



rAcinc COAST guide. 



The medicinal qualities of the water are 
highly spoken of by those who never tried 
them, but we could learn of no reliable 
analysis of its properties. To the right of 
the track is located a lO-stamp quartz mill, 
the ores for which couie from the moun- 
tains on the left. The Rye Piitch and El- 
dorado mining Districts are to the left, 
from live to tifteen miles distant, for which 
most of the supplies are hauled from this 
station. 

Oreaiia — is reached after passing over 
a rougii, uneven country for 10. .3 mi es. 
To the soutlieastward are located a num- 
ber of mining districts, in whicli are lo- 
cated a number of stamp mills and smelt- 
ing works. 

Leaving the station to the west, the long 
gray line of the desert is seen cbeeiless 
and desolate. We draw near the river 
again and catch occasional glimpses of 
narrow, green meadows, with here aud 
there a fiirm-house by the river-side; 
pass a smelting furnace and stamp mill^ 
on the Humboldt River — to the right, which 
has been dammed near by to aiibrd water 
power. Five miles from the station we 
cross a Howe truss bridge over the river, 
which here winds away on our left until it 
reaches the lake a few miles beyond. The 
current and volume of the river has been 
materially reduced since we left it at the 
liead of the Big Bend. 

IjOvelocliS— 11.86 miles from Ore- 
ana, derives its name from an old meadow 
ranche which is situated near, upon whicIi, 
during the summer, large quantities of hay 
are cut and baled for "market. Some at- 
tempt has been made at farming near by, 
but little of the country is adapted to the 
purpose. Cattle ar.d sheep raising is the 
piincipal occupation of the people— but 
few herds will be seen hereafter on our 
route. Reliable authority places the num- 
ber of head of stock now along the Hum- 
boldt River and adjacent valleys— 1878 — 
cattle, 35.'\000 head; sheep, 30,000 head. 
During the year thtreAvere shipped from 
tho same section to Chicago 20 car-loads of 
cattle, and 486 car-loads to San Francisco. 

Passing on over alkali beds, sand-hills 
and sage-brush knobs, the meadow-lands 
along the bottom get narrower, and 
finally fade from sight altogether, and we 
find ourselves fairly out on the 

Great Nevada Desert — This desert 
occupies the largest portion of the Ne- 
vada Basin. In this section, to the north- 
ward, is Mud Lake, Pyramid Lake, Hum- 



boldt, Winnemucca and Carson lakes, 
which receive the waters of several large 
rivers and numerous small creeks. As we 
lia\e before stated, they form a portion of 
that vast desert belt which constitutes the 
central area of tlie Nevada Basin. The 
desert consists of barren plains destitute of 
Avood or water, and low, broken hills, 
which afford b'lt little wood, water or 
grass. It is a part of that belt which can 
be traced througli the whole length of the 
State, from Oregon to Ai"izona, and far 
into the Interior of that Territory. Tfie 
Forty Mile Desert, and the barren country 
east of Walker's Lake, are part of this 
great division which extends southward, 
continued by those desolate plains, to the 
east of Silver Peak, on which the unfortu- 
nate Buel party suflertd so terribly in their 
attempt to reach the Colorado River. 
Throughout this vast extent of territory 
the same characteristics are found — evi- 
dences of recent volcanic action — alkaline 
flats, bassalt rocks, hot springs and sandj^ 
wastes abounding in all portions of this 
great belt. 

Although this desert is generally spoken 
of as a sandy waste, sand does not predom- 
inate. Sand bills aud flats occur at inter- 
vals, but the main bed of the desert is lava 
and clay combined — one as destitute of the 
power of creating or supporting vegetable 
life as the other. The action of the 
elements has covered these clay and lava 
deposits with a coarse dust, resembling 
sand, which is blown about and deposited 
in curious drifts and knolls by the wind. 
Where more of sand than clay is found, 
the sage-brush occasionally appears t > have 
obtained a faint hold of life, and bravely 
tries to retain it. 

Cilraiiite Point— a flag station, is 
8.33 miles from Lovelock's. Passing on, 
an occasional glimpse of Humboldt Lake, 
which lies to "the left of the road, can be 
obtained, and in full view 7.65 miles fur- 
ther, at 

BrO'WJi's — This station is situated 
about midwaj' of the northern shore, 
directly opposite 

Humboldt Lake — Thisbody of water is 
about 35 miles long by ten wide, and is in 
reality a widening of the Humboldt River, 
which after coursing through 350 miles of 
country, empties its waters into this basin. 
Through this basin the water flows to the 
plains be3'ond liy an cmtlet at the lower end 
of the lake, uniting with the wafers of the 
sink of Carson Lake which lies about ten 



CEOFUTT S NEW OVERLAXD TOURIST 



141 



miles distant. During the wet season, 
■when the swollen rivers have overflowed 
the low lands around the lakes and united 
them, they form a very respectable sheet of 
water, about eighty miles or more in length, 
with a large river emptying its waters into 
each end ; and for this vast volume of water 
there is no visible outiet. 

Across the outlet of Humboldt Lake a 
dam has been erected, which has raised 
the water about six feet, completely oblit- 
erating the old emigrant road which passed 
close to the southern shore. The necessi- 
ties of mining have at length utilized the 
waters of the lake, and now they are em- 
ployed in turning the machinery of a 
quartz mill. In the lower end of the lake 
is an island — along narrow strip of land — 
which extends up the lake and near the 
northern shore. Before the dam was put 
in the outlet, this island was part of the 
main land. There are several varieties of 
fish in the lake, and an abundance of 
water-fowl during portions of the year. 

Leaving Brown's, and passing along the 
shore of the lake for a few miles, an inter- 
vening sand ridge hides the lake from our 
sight, and about eight miles west we ob- 
tain a hue view of the Sink of Carson Lake, 
which is a small body of water lying a few 
miles north of the main Carson Lake, and 
connected with that and the Humboldt dur- 
ing the wet season. 

Carson Lake lies directly south of 
Humboldt Lake, and is from 20 to 25 miles 
long, with a width of ten miles. In the 
winter its waters cover considerable more 
area, the Sink and lake being one. 

The Carson River empties into the south- 
ern end of the lake, discharging a large 
volume of water. What becomes of the 
vast body of water continually pouring 
into these lakes, is the problem yet un- 
solved. Some claim the existence of un- 
derground channels, and terrible stories 
are told of unfortunate people who have 
been drawn down and disappeared for- 
ever. These stories must be taken with 
much allowance. If underground chan- 
nels exist, why is it that the lakes, which 
are 10 to 15 miles apart in low water 
are united during the winter floods? 
And how is it, that when the waters have 
subsided from these alkaline plains, that no 
openings for these channels are visible? 
The only rational theory for the escape of 
the water is by evaporation. Examine 
each little stieam bed that you meet with; 
you find no water there in the summer, 



nor sink ho'es, yet in the winter their beds, 
are full until they reach the main river. 
The sun is so powerful on these lava 
plains in summer that the water evapo* 
rates as soon as it escapes from the cooling 
shadows of the hills. By acutal experi- 
ment it has been demonstrated that at 
Carson and Humboldt lakes the evapora- 
tion of water is equal, in the summer, to 
six inches every 24 hours. In the winter, 
when the atmosphere is more humid, evap- 
oration is less, consequently the waters 
spread over a larger area. 

Cakson River, which gives its name to 
the lake, rises in the eastern slope of the 
Sierra Nevada Mountains, south of Lake 
Tahoe and opposite the liead waters of the 
American River. From its source to its 
mouth is about 150 to 200 miles by the riv- 
er's course. From its source its course is 
about due north for about 75 miles, when it 
turns to the east, and follows that direction 
until it enters the lake. 

Under the general name of Carson Val- 
ley, the land bordering the river has long 
been celebrated as being one of the best 
farming sections in the State. The thriv- 
ing towns of Carson City and Genoa are 
situated in the valley, though that portion 
around Carson City is frequently designa- 
ted as Eagle Valley. The upper portion, 
from Carson to the foothills, is veiy fertile, 
and yields handsome crops of vegetables, 
though irrigation is necessary to insure a 
good yield. In some portions the small 
grains are successfully cultivated, and on 
the low lands an abundant crop of grass is 
produced. The valley is thickly settled, 
the arable land being mostly occupied. 
South and west of the head waters of Car- 
son River, the head waters of Walker's 
River find their source. The west fork of 
Walker's River rises within a few miles of 
the eastern branches of the Carson. The 
east fork of Walker's River runs due north 
until joined by the west fork, when the 
course of the river is east for about forty 
miles, when it turns to the south, following 
that direction until it readies Walker's 
Lake, about forty miles south of the sink 
of the Carson, having traversed in its tortu- 
ous course about 140 miles. In the val- 
leys, which are found at intervals along the 
rivers, occasional spots of arable land are 
found, but as an agricultural country the 
valley of Walker's River is not a success. 

Walker Lake is about 45 miles long 
by 20 miles wide. Like all the lakes in 
tlie basin, it has no outlet. The water is 



142 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



brackish and strongly impregnated with 
alkali. The geueraf characteristics of the 
other lakes in the great basin belong to this 
also ; the description of one embracing all 
points belonging lo the others. 

Wliite^Plaiiis— is 12.17 miles 
west of Brown's. This station is the low- 
est elevation on the Central Pacific railroad 
east of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. As 
indicated by the name, the plains imme- 
diately around the station are white with 
alkali, solid beds of which slope away to 
the sinks of Carson and Humboldt lakes. 
No vegetation meets the eye when gazing 
on the vast expanse of dirty white alkali. 
The sun's rays seem to fall perpendicularly 
down on this bari'en scene, burning and 
withering, as though they would crush out 
any attempt wjiich nature might make to 
introduce vegetable life. 

The waterlo fill tlie big tank at the sta- 
tion is pumped from tlie " Sink " by means 
of a stationary engine, which is situated 
about midwa}^ between the station and the 
Sink. 

Mirage— is 7.96 miles from White 
Plains. This station is named for that cu- 
rious phenomenon, the mirage (meerazh) 
which is often witnessed on the desert. 
In early days the toil-worn emigrant, when 
urging his weary team across the cheerless 
desert, has often had his heart lightened 
by the sight of clear, running streams, 
waving trees and broad, green meadows, 
wliich appealed to be but a little distance 
away. Often has the unwary traveler 
turned aside from his true course and fol- 
lowed the vision for weary miles, only to 
learn that he had followed a phantom, a 
wiil-o'-the-wisp. 

What causes these optical delusions no 
one can tell, at least we never heard of a 
satisfactory reason being given for the ap- 
pearance of the phenomenon. We have 
seen the green fields, the leafy trees and 
llie running waters; we have seen tliem all 
near by, as bright and beautiful as though 
they really existed, where they appeared 
too, in the midst of desolation, and we have 
seen them vanish at our approach. Who 
knows how many luckless travelers have 
followed these visions, until, overcome with 
thirst and heat, they laid down to die on the 
burning sands, far from the cooling shade 
of the trees they might never reach; far 
from the music of running waters, which 
they might hear no more. 

Onward we go, reclining on the soft 
cushions of the elegant palace car, thirty 



miles an hour; rolling over the alkali 
and gray lava beds, scarcely giving a 
thouglit to tliose who, in early days, suf- 
fered so fearfully while crossing these 
plains, and, perchance, left their bones 
to bleach and whiten upon these barren 
sand s. 

Hot j^pring!^ — is 6.57 miles west of 
Mirage. Here, to the right of the road, can 
be seen more of these bubbling, spurting 
curiosities — these escape pipes, or safety 
valves for the discharge of the super-abun- 
dant steam inside the globe, which are 
scattered over the great basin. Extensive 
salt works are located at this station, from 
which a car-load or more of salt is shipped 
daily. The salt springs are about four 
miles west of the station. 

The Saxon American Borax Co. have 
erected woi'ks here which cost about $200,- 
000. They are situated a half-mile south of 
the station, in plain view. 

Passing on, we find no change to note, 
unless it be that the beds of alkali are oc- 
casionally intermixed with brown jiatches 
of lava and sand. A few bunches of 
stunted sage-brush occasionally break the 
monotony of the scene. It is worthy of 
notice thatthis hardy shrub is never found 
growing singly and alone. The reason for 
Tt is evident. No single shrub could ever 
maintain an existence here. It must have 
help ; consequently we find it in clumps for 
mutual aid and protection. 

Desert — is 11.7 miles from Hot 
Springs. This is, indeed, a desert. In the 
next 5197 miles, we gain about 100 feet alti- 
tude, pass Two Mile Station, descend 82 
feet in the next 2.37 miles, and arrive at 

\%''aclswortli — This town is situated 
on tlie east bank of the Truckee River and 
the western border of the desert, and con- 
tains some good buildings, and a pojaula- 
tiou of about 600. 

The division workshops are located 
here, and consist of a round-house of 20 
stalls, car, machine and blacksmith shops. 
Adjoining the workshops, a piece of land 
has been fenced in, set out with trees, a 
fountain erected, and a sward formed, by 
sowing grass-seed and irrigating it — mak- 
ing a beautiful little oasis. Considerable 
freight is shipped from this station to min- 
ing camps to the south. 

Pine Grove Copper Mines lies six miles 
south of the town. They attract little at- 
tention, that mineral not being much 
sought after. Ten miles south are the 
Desert mines, which consist of gold-bear- 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



143 




SNOW SHEDS — SEE PAGE 15t 



iug quartz lodes. Some of the mines 
there are considered very rich. Ninety 
miles south, at Columbus, are located tlue 
famous Borax mines of Nevada, said to be 
very rich. 



The Piute In- 
dians have two 
reservations; 
one is situa'cd 
eighteen miles 
northward, and 
another to the 
southeast, at 
Walker Lake. 

Leaving 
Wadsworth,we 
cross the Truc- 
kee River, on 
a Howe truss 
bridge, our 
course being to 
the southwest. 
This stream 
rises in Lakes 
T a h o e and 
Donner, which 
lie at the east- 
ern ba'e of the 
^leiras, about 
bO lailes dis- 
tant From its 
souice in Lake 
I <i h o e , the 
liianch runs 
noith lor about 
t^\clre miles, 
\\ h e n — near 
T uckeeCity — 
It unites with 
Little Truckjce, 
the outlet of 
Donaer Lake, 
and turns to 
lltl lheeast,follow- 
m!>: that course 
until it reaches 

I tlu^ place, 
^\here it turns 
noith about 25 

I miles, branch- 
es <uid one por- 
tion enters Pj'r- 
ami([ and the 

i otlu r AYinne- 
mucca Lake. 

The level 
lands border- 
ingtheTruckee 
consist mostly of gravelly upland covered 
with sage-brush. It- is claimed that they 
might be rendered productive by irriga- 
tion, and the experiment has been tried ia 
a small way, but with no flattering result. 



144 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE 



The upper portions of the valley, especially 
that which borders on J,ake Tahoe, is ex- 
cellcut farming land. Between these two 
points— tlie meadows and the lake — but 
little meadow land is found, the val- 
ley being reduced to narrow strips of 
low land in the canyons and narrows, and 
broad, gravelly uplands in the more open 
country. 

{Salvia — a small side-track, comes next 
after Wadsworth, 7.25 miles distant. Soon 
we pass around a lava blutf, called lied 
Rock, on the right, and 7.55 miles brings 
us to 

Clark's — in a round valley, sur- 
rounded by fenced fields, wiiere good 
crops of vegetables are raised for market 
in mining towns to the south. From 
Clark's, it is 11. OG miles to 

Vista — a small station situated on the 
northern edge of what is known as the 
Truckee Meadows. In early days these 
meadows were a noted rendezvous of the 
emigrants, who camped here for da_ys to 
recruit tl^eir teams after crossing the desert. 
They have an extent of about twelve miles 
in length by about two miles in width, 
inclosing considerable excellent grass 
land. Vegetables and small grains are 
successfully cultivated on portions of the 
moist laud. 

Reno — is 7.64 miles from Vista; is the 
county seat ot Washo county, and contains 
a population of about 1,500. It was named 
in honor of General Reno, who was killed at 
thebattle of South Mountain. This city has 
rapidly improved within the last six years, 
and now contains five church edifices, two 
banks, a fine court-house, a number of good 
business blocks, a steam fire department, 
several small factories, two daily news- 
papers, the Journal and the Gazette, and is 
the distributing point for an enormous 
freighting business to the north, as well as 
the south. Some good agricultural land 
surrounds the town, as w'ell as many herds 
of cattle and sheep. The State Agricul- 
tural grounds are located here, in which is 
a very fine race track. The Lake House is 
the principal hotel. Stages leave daily for 
Susanville, 90 miles. 

The English works are near the town, 
affording excellent means by which to test 
the ores discovered iu the neighborhood. 
The greatest mining region iu the world 
is reached via Reno. Virginia City, located 
over the mountain to the southeast, from 
this station is only 21 miles distant, by the 
old wagon road, but by rail it is 53 miles. 



Before the completion of this road, Vir- 
ginia City was reached by stage, over a 
fearfully sleep zig-zag mountain road, but 
the diflerence between the "old and the 
new" is more than made up in the com- 
fort of the passage if not m time. 

At the time when these stages were run- 
ning to convey passengers, a fast " Pony 
Express " was run for the purpose of cany- 
ing Wells, Fargo & Co.'s letter bags. This 
pony express was once a great institution. 
Approaching Reno, the traveler could have 
observed that the mail express bags were 
thrown from the cars before the train had 
ceased its motion. By watching the pro- 
ceedings still further he would see that 
they are transferred to the backs of stout 
horses, already bestrode by light, wiry 
riders. In a moment all is ready, and 
aw^ay they dash under whip and spur to 
the next station, when, changing horses, 
they are off again. Three relays of horses 
we: e used, and some " good time "was often 
made by these riders. 

Let us take a run up and see this 
Huge Bonanza Country. 



Virginia & Trnckee Railroad. 

Principal oflice, Carson, Nevada. 

D. 0. Mills Pres't San Faancisco. 

H. M. Yerington GenH Siqft — Carson, Nev. 

D. A. Bender GenH T. A. ... " " 

This load was commenced at Carson 
City, ]\Iarch 19th, 1869, completed to Vir. 
giuiaCity in the following November, and 
to Reno in 1871. The length is 52.2 miles; 
the grade in places is 115 feet to the mile, 
and there are six tunnels, of the aggregate 
length of 3,000 feet ; the shortest curve is 
19 "degrees — between Gold Hill and Vir- 
ginia City. 

The train for Virginia stands on the oppo- 
site side of the station building from the 
C. P. Let us step on board. From Reno, 
our course is east of south, crossing a por- 
tion of the Truckee Meadows, a few well- 
cultivated fields and greater quantities of 
sage and grease-wood. The first station on 
the bills is 3.5 miles from Reno, called 

Anderson's — but we do not stop. Cross- 
ing the river, we pass the first of a series 
of V-shaped flumes, which are constructed 
to float down wood and lumber from the 
mountains. The one we are now passing 
I is said to be 15 miles in length. 

HuPFAKER's — comes next — after 3.6 
miles, where another flume is passed, both 
of which are on the right, and land their 



CUOI^UTT S XEW OVEULAXD TOURIST 



145 



freight — wood — close to the track of our 
road. Along here we find some broad 
meadows ou the left, but sa^je on the right. 
Passing over 1.9 miles from the last station 
we arrive at 

Brown's — Here is the e- d of another 
flume, and 2.4 miles further, and after 
curving around to the right, up a broad 
valley, ari'ive at the 

Ste.\mboat Sphings — which are eleven 
miles south of Keno. There are several of 
these curious springs within a short dis- 
tance of the road. Thej" are near each 
other, all having a common source, though 
different outlets, apparently. They are sit- 
uated to the right of the road, just before 
reaching the station, a short distance above 
the track ; are strongly impregnated with 
sulphur, and ar very hot, though the tem- 
perature varies in different springs. 

They are said to possess excellent me- 
dicinal qualities. At limes they are quite 
active, quitting jets of water and clouds 
of steam, which at a distance resemble the 
blowing off" of steam from a large boiler. 
The ground around them is soft and treach- 
erous in places, as though it had been 
thrown up by the springs, and had not yet 
cooled or hardened. It is related that once 
upon a time, when a party of emigi-ants, 
who were toiling across the plains, arrived 
near these springs about camping time, 
they sent a man ahead — a Dutchman — to 
look out for a suitable place for camping — 
one where water and grass could be ob- 
tained. In his search the Dutchman dis- 



where there are many evidences of placer 
mining ; twist and climb, between high pro- 
jecting cliffs, and suddenly emerge into a 
great vixlle}', and stop at 

Washoe City— Ah ! here is a child of 
the past. In its palmy days Washoe was 
as lively a city, or camp, as could be found 
in the whole mining region. Where thou- 
sands of people once toiled, there are now 
only a few dozen, and most of those are 
engaged in other pursuits than mining. 
On the right is another flume for floating 
wood from the mountains on the west- 
ward. 

The valley near this place is from half to 
a mile in width, surrounded by high moun- 
tains, the highest peak of which is Mt. Rose, 
at the south end of the valley, over 8,000 feet 
in height. The mountains on the east are 
bare, with some sage and bunch-grass, 
while those on the west are covered, the 
greater part, with pine and spruce timber. 

Leaving Washoe, we pass, on the left, 
the Old OphirMill, a stone building — now 
in ruins — which once gave employment to 
about 150 men, besides a $30,000 a year 
superintendent. 

Frankto'^'n — is 4.7 miles from Washoe,a 
growing station in the midst of Washoe 
valley ;'population about 150. A "V" flume 
comes down on the right. There are some 
good farming lands along here, but the 
greater portion is only adapted for grazing 
purposes. 

Washoe Lake, on the left, is about four 
miles long and one mile wide. On the 



covered these springs, which happened to ^ • , -f ^, i i • -c , tr <. i 
be quiet at the time, and knelt down to h'''\^''^'' of the lake is Bower's Hotel, a 
- ^ ' • - - - ' - . . _ . I gi-eat resort m the summer for pic-nic par- 



take a drink of the clear, nice-looking 
water. Just at that instant a jet of spray 
was thrown out and over the astonished 
Dutchman. Springing to his feet, he 
dashed away to the train, shouting at the 
top of his voice, "Drive ou ! drive on! 
h— 1 is not five miles from this place!" 
Guess the innocent fellow firmly believed 
what he uttered. 

The traveler will find the springs suffi- 
ciently interesting to repay him for the 
trouble of pausing here awhile and taking 
a look around. At the station will be 
found a comfortable hotel, ample bath ac- 
commodations, and about a half-dozen resi- 
dences. 

Leaving the springs, our course is south, 
up a narrow valley, in which is some good 
farming land, with high bluffs on each 
side ; cross and re-cross' Steamboat Creek, 
curve to the right through a narrow caLyou 
10 



ties from the cities to the southward. From 
Franktown it is 2.6 miles to 

JMiLL, Station — near the site of an old 
mill, where another "V" flume comes down 
from the mountains on the right, making 
six since leaving Reno. 

Proceeding south, the valley narrows 
and is soon crowded out completely, and 
we rise up onto the southern rim ; an^ 
then, a look back will take in the whole 
valley and lake from end to end, and ? 
l)eautiful view it is. At this narrow gorgi 
the railroad track crosses the great 

Water Syphon, through which th< 
water is conducted from the Sierra Nevads 
Mountains, on the west, across this narrow 
gorge, for supplying Virginia City, Gold 
Hill and Silver City. It is an achievement 
which finds no parallel in the history of 
hydraulic engineering. The total length 



UQ 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 




of the pipe used is but little less than seven miles. 
At the poiut where the water is taken from Dall's 
Creek, up in tiie Sierras, it is brought in au 18-inch 
flume, four miles long, to the point of a spur on the 
west side of Washoe Vallej', the height of which is 
2,100 feet above the railroad track. At the point 
where the water in the flume reaches the spur it is 
received in an iron pipe, which, after running along 
the crest_, descending, crossing and ascending twelve 
steep canons on its route, finally descends into this 
gorge, crosses it from the west, and ascends the cliff 
on the east side to a height of 1,.510 feet, where it is 
taken by another flame and conducted to a reservoir 
on the Divide between Virginia City and Gold Hill. 
The i)ipe has an orifice twelve inches in diameter, 
and where the pressure is the greatest, is flve-six- 
toenths of an inch in thickness, riveted with five- 
eighth inch rivets in double rows. "Where the press- 
ure lessens, the thickness of the material gradual- 
ly decreases. 

The amount of rolled iron used in constructing the 
pipe was 1,150,000 lbs. One million rivets and 52,000 
lbs of lead were used on the pipe. Before being used 
each length of pipe— 26 feet long each — was heated 
to a temperature of 380 degrees, and submerged in a 
bath of asphaltum and coal tar, to prevent corroding. 
At the bottom of each depression there is a l>low-off 
cock, for removing any sediment that might accu- 
mulate, and at each elevation is an air- cock to let 
out the air when the Avater is first introduced into the 
] >ipes. Where the Avater pipe runs under the railroad 
trai'lc. it is surrounded by a massive iron sleeve, 

^^.^ ,- ^12 feet long, to ])roteet it from the jar of 

' <iJ passingtrains. This pipe is capable of fur- 

' nishing2, 000, 000 gallons daily. The whole 

cost of construction Avas scA'en hundred 

and fifty thousand dollars. A moA-ement 

is noAV on foot to lay another and larger 





Giant Geyser, Yellowstone Park, 



Ko. 34 Annex. Hauling Oros in 

Hides — On a recent visit to Ijittle Cotton- 
■wood Canon, Utah, we saw a very novel con- 
trivance being used by the Emma Mining 
Comiiany, whose mine is situated about 1,- 
000 feet above the railroad depot, on the 



side of the mountains. The snow was several feet 
deep, and the ore was being hauled down to the depot 
in drags. The drags consisted of a green ox hide. The 
ore is first sewed up in sacks of 100 lbs. each, then 
placed on the hide, which has loops arouiid tho edge, 
and when 1.5 of these sacks are in position, a rope is 
run through the loops in the hide, the edges drawn 
together, then a mule or horse is hitched to tho head 
portion of the hide — with the hair outwards — and a 
lirake to the tail. The brake is of iron, shaped like a 
horse-shoo, with toeth that drag through the snow, 
holding back. 

In coming down the hill the driver stands on the 
hide, but when it becomes necessary on account of 
heavy grade to " down brakes," the driver changes his 
position and stands on the horse-shoe instead of 
the hide. 

The first half of a wagon train is called the " right 
wing," the other half the " left wing." In forming a 
corral, tho wagons of the " richt wing " form a half 
circle on the right hand side of tho road, hauled close 
together, teams on the outside; the "left wing" forms 
on the left side in the same manner, leaving a passage 
\7ay open at the front and rear ends of each " wing." 
called "gaps." 



CKOFUTT S NEAV OYERLAXD TOURIST 



117 



pipe near the present one. 

From Mill station it is 2.5 miles to 
Lake View — situated just south of 
the southern lim of the "Washoe Valley, in 
the gorge above alluded to. Soon after 
leaviuglhe station, we pass into a tunnel, 
through a projecting cliff, which shoots 
out from the right, and comes out on the 
side of « the mourtaiu overlooking the 
beautiful Eagle or Carson Valley. Away 
in the distance, four miles away, can be 
seen Carson City, a little further, Carson 
River, and bej'ond both, the mountains, 
just beyond which is Walker's River, and 
then Walker's Lake. 

Winding and descending around the 
side of the mountain, through numerous 
rocky cuts, a distance of 4.(5 miles from 
Lake View, we arrive at 

Carson City — the capital of the State 
of Nevada. It is situated in Eagle Valley, 
on the Carson River, at the foot of the 
eastern base of the Sierras, and contains 
about 4,000 population; is ol.l miles south 
from Reno, and 21.1 miles southwest 
from Virginia City. It is the oldest town 
in the State, and has a good many fine 
private and public buildings. The town is 
tastefully decorated with shade trees, and has 
an abundance of good water. The United 
States Branch ]\Iint of Nevada is located 
here. The capital is located in the center 
of a Plaza, and is surrounded by an iron 
fence. It is two story and basement, made 
of cut stone. 

Carson is a busy city, has some good 
blocks of buildings, several good hotels, 
chief of which is the Ormsby; four 
churches, five schools, two daily newspa- 
pers — the Morning Appeal and the JSfcvada 
Tribune. Here are located the machine 
shops of the Railroad Company, and several 
manufictories. Carson City is in the center 
of the best farming land on Carson River, 
and the best in this part of the State, and is 
the distributing point for a vast amount of 
freight, destined for the southern mines. 
To the south of the city, comes down the 
large "V" flume from the Sierras, via. 
Clear Creek Canyon, o^vned by the 
Railroad Company through Avhich thou- 
sands of cords of wcod and millions 
of feet of lumber are landed at Carson 
weekly. Four and six horse coaches 
leave Carson daily, carrying passengers, 
mails and express. From Carson to 
Monitor, the distance is 4') miles, and to 
Silver Mountain, in Alpine county, Cal., 
54 miles; to Bishop's Creek, 192 miles; 



Benton, 150 miles in Mono ccv.nty, Cal., 
Sweetwater, 73 miles, Aurora, 105. miles, 
Bodie, 119 miles, Mariette, 145 miles, Bell- 
ville, 155 miles, Candelaria, 105 miiis, 
Columbus, 173 miles and Silver Peak, 228 
miles in Esmeralda county, Nevada, — To 
Independence, is 234 miles ; Lone Pine, 253 
miles, and Cerro Gordo, 274 miles, in Inyo 
county, Cal. The fare to these places 
averages about 15 cents per mile. A stage 
also runs to Genoa and Markleville, and in 
the summer to Lake Talioe, at Gleubrook, 
15 miles. This line connects at Tahoe City, 
with stages for Truckee, the Summit, and 
also witii the new line over the mountains 
to the Calavaras Grove. Leaving Carson, 
our course is to the northeast, across a 
broad bottom. To the right, about two 
miles distant, beside a rour,d butte, is a 
large building— a huge boarding-house — • 
conducted by the State. The guests are 
niiiuerous, and are not inmates of their own 
free will, but by due course of law, and 
when the law is satisfied, it is hoped they 
will leave this States Prison and become 
better citizens. 

Near the prison are the Carson Warm 
Springs, where are ample accommodations 
for bathing. 

Lookout — is the first station from Car- 
son, 1.1 miles distant, but our cars lookout 
not to stop, and 1.3 miles further, brings 

Empire — This is a town of about 1,000 
population, situated on the north bank of 
Carson River. Here ai-e located the big 
Spanish or Mexican mill, on the right, then 
the Morgan or Yellow Jacket mill, and 
then the Empire. Passing on, down the 
bank of the Carson, we curve around the 
point of ablulT, pass the Brunswick mill on 
the left, near the station of the same name, 
1.3 miles from Empire. Soon the valley is 
crowded out, and we enter a canyon, with 
the river to our right, just below, as we are 
now climbing up a heavy grade. To our 
right, but far below, is the Vivian, and the 
3ierrimac mills, nearly one mile from the 
Brunswick. Continuing on up, still up- 
ward, we come to the Santiago mill, 1.8 
miles further. This mill is situated about 
500 feet below the road, on the right, and 
almost under it. Shutes run from the track 
above to the mill below, for dumping ore 
or coal. The road is now far up on the side 
of the mountain, much of the way blasted 
out from the solid rock, and very crooked. 
The canyon on the Carson River is far 
below, on the right, and soon will be lost 
to view. 



148 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



Eureka — is half a mile from Santi- 
ago, with a narrow-gauge track on our 
right, away down the river. Near the 
track on the right, is the dump-shute 
of the Eureka mill. Ascending rapid- 
ly and tortuously it is two miles to 

Mound House. — Here connections 
are made with the 
Caribou & Colorado Kailroad. 
General Office, Carson. 

H. M. Terixgton Fresi'lent and Gen'l Stipt. 

D. A. Bender Gen'l F. & P. Agent. 

This railroad— a three-foot narrow 
gauge — was completed and opened for 
business April 18, 1881, to Hawthorne, 
a distance of 100 miles from Mound 
House, and trains run regularly in con- 
nection with the V. & T. E. E. Stages 
leave Hawthorne dailyfor: Aurora, 2G 
miles ;Bodie, 37 miles; Candelaria, 50 
miles; Columbus, 5.5, miles ; and con- 
necting for Belmont, Silver Peak, 
Montezuma, Gold Mountain, Benton 
and Independence. 

SuTRO Tunnel. — This tunnel is one 
of the mostimportant enterprises ev- 
er inaugurated in mining operations 
in this or any other country. The ob- 
ject sought is A'entilation, drainage, 
and a cheap means of working the 
mines, or bringing the ores to the sur- 
face. The tunnel commences in the 
valley of the Carson Eiver ; is 11 feet 
wide at the bottom, 13 feet at the top, 
and 10 feet high. 

The main tunnel is 20,018 feet in 
length, and the cross tunnels will be 
about 12,000 feet more. The tunnel 
strikes the Comstoek ledge at a depth 
2.000 feet below the point of the crop- 
pings. The work of extending the cross 
tunnels is being pushed ahead vigor- 
ously. Distance from Mound House 
to Sutro, five miles. 

Near Mound House is a gypsum 
mine of good quality, large amounts 
of which are shipped to San Francisco. 
A track branches off near the station, 
to the right, for Silver City, situated 
about two miles to the eashvard, in a 
narrow canon, in plain view, where 
are located a number of quartz mills. 

Silver — is the next station, 3.3 
miles from Mound House. Here ore 
is dumped down a shute to the right, 
and taken to the mills below. The 
best view of Silver City — a place of 
1,000 population, all of whom are en- 
gaged in mining, having one ne^^s- 



-p^Y>^\',\\\Q Reporter— Q-Aw now be liad on 
the right; curving arouud t) the left, we 
come to the American Fhit tunnel, 900 feet 
long. It was at this timuel where a thrill- 
ing incident occurred, Octol)er 17, 1872. 
(See Annex No. 31.) The lire alluded to 
in tlie annex cost the Eailroad Company 
$500,000. It took two mouths to replace 
the timbering, during which time all 
passengers, freight, mails and express, had 
to be transferred by teams. 

Passing through the tunnel, Mt. David- 
son looms up directly ahead, 7,827 feet 
above sea-level ; to the right is Gold Hill — 
tar away, in a narrow canyon. The train 
runs around the side ot the mountain, de- 
scribing a great curve to the north and 
eastward, passmg numerous mills, among 
which are tlie Eock Island, down on the 
right; the Baltimore, a track to the Over- 
man, the Knickerbocker, Belcher, Baltic, 
and many other mills, both on the right 
and left, ! nd finally crossover a huge mill, 
and oue of the principal streets of the city 
of Gold Hill, Avhich extends to the left up 
a narrow canyon, and stops at the depot in 
the city of 

Gold Hill — This is a flourishing min- 
ing city, 19 miles froni Carson aid two 
from Virginia; populalion, 0,000. It con- 
sists mostly of one main street, built along 
a steep ravine. The city has some good 
buildings, among which are one good 
hotel, the Vesey House ; iiud one daily news- 
paper, the Gold Hill News. The cit^ is sur- 
rounded with mills of all sorts, sizes and 
kinds, and all is noise and busimss night 
and day. The street between Gold Hill 
and Virginia is so generally built up that 
one cannot tell where the dividing line is 
between them. An omnibus line plies be- 
tween the two cities, running every fifteen 
minutes. 

Passing on from Gold Hill two miles, 
around sliarp curves, through three short 
tunnels in quick successirm, with mills to 
the right, mills to the left, and mills all 
around us, we arrive at 

T irgiiiia City— This city is on the 
southeastern slope of Mt. Davidson, at an 
elevation of 6,200 feet, with the mountain 
rising 1,627 feet above it. The city is built 
along the side ( f the mountain — one main 
street, with numerous steep cross-streets — 
and contains some very flue business blocks. 
Virginia is 21 miles from Carson, and 52 
miles by rail, fiom Eeno, and contains a 
populat"ion of about 16,000, a great propor- 
tion of whom are engaged in mining op- 



CKOFUTT S NEW OVEKLANI) TOUKIST 



149 



eratious immediately under the citj, from 
1,500 to 2,200 feet. 

Tlie Enterprise and tlie Chronicle — botli 
daily aud weekly papei's — are published 
here. 

The religious and edueatiou-al interests 
are well represented by churches ami 
schools. 

There arc a number of hotels in the city, 
at which the traveler Avill find ^ajod ac- 
commodations. The Inteknational is 
the principal one. 

At both Virginia and Gold PIill, are 
located great numbers of smelling furnaces, 
reduction works aud stamp mills, a'l thun- 
dering away, night and day. The fires 
from these works, at night, light up with a 
lurid glare all surrounding objects. There 
are no two cities in thewoikl more ccs- 
mopolitan; here, meet f.nd jostle, the peo- 
ple from every land and clime; the rich 
and the poor; the miser and the spend- 
thrift; the morose and jolly. Sdf l^cve 
predominates. " Rich to-day, poor to- 
morrow," is the rule. All gamble in min- 
ing stocks, from the boot-black ( r servant 
girl to the Rev. ]\Ir. Whitetie, or the Bo- 
nanza-Nabob. The whole people are alive 
to each movement of the "stock indica- 
tors," as much as the " Snowballs " were 
in Baltimore tweut3'-five years ago on the 
lottery and policy business; 4-1 1-4 L waj 
their go:l; the tick of the "indicator" is 
the god of this people. The saying that 
"It is not birth, nor wealth, nor State — its 
git up aud git that makes men great," has 
been thoroughly demonstrated by many ot 
the citizens ot Virginia Citj^ and Gold Hill. 

Eakly History — The first gold mines 
were discovered in 1857, by Joe Kirby, and 
some others, who commenced mining in 
Gold Canyon (Gold Hill), and continued 
working the place with iudiflierent success 
until 1859. The first Cjuartz claim was lo- 
cated by James JFinncy, better known as 
" Old A irginia," on the 22d of February, 
1858, in the Virginia mining district aud 
on the "Virgini'a Croppings." The old 
prospector gave his name to the city, crop- 
pings and district. In June, 1859, rich de- 
posits of silver ore were discovered by 
Peter O'Reilly and Patrick McLaughlin, 
on what is now the ground of the Ophir 
Mining Company. They were engaged in 
gold washing, and uncovered a rich vein 
of sulphuret of silver, when engaged in 
excavating a place wherein to catcdi^x sup- 
ply of water for their rockers. The dis- 
covery was made on ground claimed by 



Kirby and others. A Mr. Comstock was 
employed t ) purchase the claims of Kirby 
and those holding with him, hence, Com- 
stock's name was given to the lode. 

The Comstock Lode— is about four 
miles in length, the out-croppings extend- 
ing in a broad belt along the mountain 
side. It extends under Virginia City and 
Gold Hill; the ground on which these 
cities are built being all " honej^-t ombed " 
or undermined ; in fact, the whole moun- 
tain is a series of shafts, tunnels and cav- 
erns from which the ore has been taken. 
The vein is broken aud irregular at inter- 
vals along its length as far as traced, owing 
to the formation of the mountain. It is 
also very irregular in thickness. In some 
places liie fissure ranges from 30 to as high 
as 200 feet in width, while at other points 
the walls come close together. The great- 
est variation in width occurs at a depth of 
from 400 to 600 ftet from the surface. The 
principal silver ores of this lode are steph- 
anite, vitreous silver ore, native silver and 
very rich galena. Pyrargyrite, or ruby 
silver, horn silver aud polybasite, are 
found in small quantities, together with 
iron and copper pj^ritcs, zinc-blende, car- 
bonate of lead, pyromorphite and native 
gold. 

The number of mills in and around Gold 
Hill and Virginia, and at other points, 
Avliich work on ore from this lode, is be- 
tween 75 and 80. They are scattered around 
through several couaties, including Storey 
(where the lode lies), Lyon, "Washoe and 
Ormsbj', from 30 to 40 in number being in 
Storey county. The product of the Com- 
stock lode has been beyoud that of any 
silver vein of which we have any record ; 
furnishing the largest portion of bullion 
produced on the Pacific Slope. 

But let VIS return to Reno before we 
get to watching the "indicator:" and 
start once more for the West. 

Leaving Reno, our course is south of 
west, up Truckee River. The liills are 



KoTE.— stop ovor Pr;vi>g-<*'s- Tasseu- 
gers traveling on unlimited I'irst-Class Tickets, 
y;h.o are desirous of securing a full daylight 
view of the tconderful scenery ou the Sierra, 
Nevada Mountains, can now do bo. The "Pacific 
Express" arrives at Keno [see page 144] for sup- 
per, at 8 :20 p. m. Passengers can stop over 
night at the hotnl, and take the "Reno & Sau 
Francisco Express" next morning, [Sundays ex- 
cf>pted] at 0:15; reach Truckee at 8:10; Sum- 
mit, 9 :00 ; Cape Horn, 11 :'20 ; Sacramento, 2 :10 
p. m. ; Benicia, 4 :53, and Sau Francisco at 7 :05 
p. m. Only 71.3 hours later than the regular 
Pacific Exi-i-ess. 



150 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



loftier, and -were— at the time the railroad with here and there a party of lumbermen 



■was built — covered wiih d.nse pine for 
csts ; uuw, only stumps and rocks appear, 
with very little undergrowth. As we enter 
the Truckee Canyon, we seem to lave en- 
tered a cooler, pleasanter, and more invig- 
orating atmosphere. The aroma of the 
spruce and pine, which comes with the 
mountain breeze, is pleasant when com- 
pared with that of the alkali plains. 

Ver«Ii — is the first station from Reno, 
10.48 miles. Passing on, up, 1.23 miles 
brings us to a new side-track station called 

Essex. — which we pass; continuing 
along the river, with its foaming current 
now on our left, first ou one side, then on 
the other, runs this beautiful stream unnl 
W.3 lose sight of it altogether. The road 
crosses and re-crosses it on fine Howe truss 
bridges, running as straight as the course 
of the mountains will permit. The moun- 
tains tower up on either hand, in places 
sloping and covered in places with timber 
from base to summit, in others precipitous, 



working them down to the mills. A great 
qu'-tntity of ice is cut and housed here, 
and an extensive beer brewery erected. 

The Truckee Kiver, from Reno to its 
mountain source, is a very rapid stream, 
and att"ords dam-sites and mill-sites innu- 
merable; yet, it is related that some years 
ago, before the completion of the Pacific 
railroad, a certain Indian agent, who is 
now an E.x-U. S. Senator, clTarged up to 
the Government an " item " of §40.000, as 
being the purchase-mouey for a mill-site 
on the Truckee, near a dam site. 

Some hungry aspirant for official posi- 
tion, who had a hank< ring after the "loaves 
and fishes," exposed the "item," and a 
committee was sent out from Washington 
to investigate the matter. This committee, 
went out by " Overland Stage," had a good 
time, traversed the country in every dii-ec- 
tion, explored the river thoroughly, from 
the De.sert to Lake Tahoe, and reported 
that they could find numberless dam-sites 
by mill-sites, but could not find a mill by 



and covered with masses of black, broken 
rock. 'Tis a rough country, the canyon of a dam-site, 
the Trunkee, pos^sessing rnany grand and j From Boca it is 1.57 miles to 
imposing features. _ Prosser Creek — Here is a long "Y" 

On the roail up we pass a new station I flume for the accommodation of the lum- 
call' d bermen, and where large quantities of ice 



Mystic — 5.11 miles from Essex, and 
four miles further 

Bronco — another side-track. Occa- 



is cut and stored for market. Another run 
of 4.1 miles and the train passes 
Proctors — and 2.70 miles more and 



sional strips of meadow land are seen : our train comes to the end of the Truckee 



close to the liver's edge, but too small and 
rocky to be of any use, only as grazing 
land. Now we cross the dividing line, and 
shout 



division, atTruckte City. 

Trnckee City— This place is situ- 
ated on the north bank of the Truckee 
River, in the midst of what was once a 
heavily limbered region, much of which 
has been cut olf. The principal business 
of the place is lumbering, though an ex- 
tensive freighting business is carried on 
with other points in the mountains. One 
can hardly get around the town for the 
piles of lumber, ties and wood, which 
cover ihe ground in every direction, home 
fine stores and a good hotel are the only 
build. nirs which can lay claim to size and 
finish corresponding with the growth and 
business of the place. The town is com- 
as we enter California, a few miles east of' posed of wooden biiildings, mostly on the 

Boca— a small .station 5.7 miles from ; north side of the railroad. 
Bronco. The lumber interest is well rep- 1 The very sharp roofs of the buildings 
resented here, huee piles of ties, boards ] point out the fact that the snow falls deep 
and timber lininglthe roadside. The river : and moist here, sufficieutly so to crush m 
seems to be the means of tran.sportation for I the roofs— unless they are very sharp and 
the saw logs, immense numbers of them stronsr. The town contains about 2.000 in- 
being scattered up and down the stream, habitants, nearly all of whom are directly 




AXD PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



151 



or indirectly con- 
nected with the 
lumber trade. 

The educational ^ 
interests have ^ 
been provided for, |: 
Nevada county, in H 
w h i c h Truckee [a 
City is situated, be- =,-1 
ins justly celebra- s# 
ted "for her public a 
schools. 

The Truckee 
House is the head- 
quarters of the 
tourists who stop 
over to visit ob- 
jects of interest in 
this locality. This 
station is the end 
of the Truckee and 
the commence- 
ment of the Sacra- 
mento division. 

The company 
have a 2 4 - s t a 1 1 
round-house and 
the usual machine 
and repair shops 
of a division loca- 
ted here. 

A line of stages leaves Truckee dai- 
Iv for Donner Lake, two miles : Lake 
Tahoe, 12 miles; Sierraville. ad miles. 
A good wagon-road connects Sierra 
City with Truckee, via the Henness 
Pass and Donner Lake. 

Freight is reshipped here for Don- 
ner and Tahoe Lakes, Sierraville and 
the various towns in the Sierra Yal- 
lev. There are some wholesale and 




OVERLAID PONY EXPKESS— 5ee Footnote. 

retail houses in Truckee, which do a 
large business. 

Lake Tahoe, or Bigler, as it is call- 
ed on some of the official maps, is lo- 
cated 12 miles south of Truckee. Ta- 
hoe is an Indian name, signifying 
"big water," and is pronounced by 
the Indians " Tah-00," while the 
"pale-faces" pronounce it "Ta-hoe." 
From Truckee a splendid road af- 



Xit. 41 Anxhx. The Pony Kxpress— -was 

an enterprise started in IS^GO, by Majors, Rus- 
sell & Co., of lieavenworth, Kan., to meet the 
pressing business wants of tlie Pacific Coast. It 
will be remembered that the xisual time made on 
the mail service, by steamer, between New York 
and San Francisco, was about twenty-six days. 
The first Overlaml mail— which arrived in San 
Francisco Oct. 10th, ISoS — carried it from St. 
Louis . Mo. .via Los Angeles, in twenty -three days, 
twenty-one hours. The Pony Express— yfhich 
left St. Joseph. Mo., and San Francisco, simul- 
taneonsly, Ayiril IJd, 1>^00 — succeeded in ti-ans- 
portiug it through safely, on its first triy), in ten 
days ; on its second, in 14 days ; third, nine days ; 
fourth, t?n days ; fifth nine days ; sixth, nine 
days ;— a distance of 1,95H> miles. This rapid 
ti'ansmissioLof business con-esiiondence was of 
incalculable value to business men in those days. 
This ser\-ice, we can readily see, i-equired cour- 
age and endurance, as well as enterprise and the 
expenditnre of Iwge sums of money. The mo- 



ment the fen-y boat touched land on the oxniosite 
shore, the Pony Expressman mounted his horse ; 
and by day or by night, in starlight or darkness ; 
whether sun-dried or soaked, snow-covered or 
frozen ; among friends or through foes ; be he 
lonely or merry — onward he hastenth, until, at 
the thrice-welcomed station, he leaped from his 
saddle to rest. Here another was ready, whose 
horse, like himself, had been waiting, jierhaps, 
without shelter ; nnd with a cheery "Good-night, 
boys," he galloped oft", and was soon lost in the 
distance. He rides on alone, over prairies and 
mountains ; whether up hill or down ; on rough 
gi'ound or smooth, until he descries in the dis- 
tance the goal of his hopes, and the station is 
reached. To tell of the losses iu men from the In- 
dians, and of horses and other property, both 
from volunteers as well as Indians, with the 
many thrilling adventures of those who jiai-tici- 
pated in this dai-ing enterprise, however in^ 
teresting, would make too long a recital for these 
pages. 



152 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 




FIRST WELLS, FARGO & CO.'S EXPRESS OVER THE MOUNTAINS. 



fords one of the best and most pleasant 
drives to be found in the State. Tlie road 
follows the river bank, under the shade of 
waving pines, or across green meadows 
until it reaches Tahoe Citv, at the foot of 
the lake. Here are excellent ac ommoda- 
tions for travelers — a good hotel, boats, and 
a -well-stncked stable. 

According to llie survey of the State line. 
Lake Tahoe lies in two States and five 
counties. The line between ( aliforniaand 
Nevada runs north and south through the 
lake, until itreaclu s a certain point therein, 
when it changes to a course 17 degs. east 
of south. Thus the counties of El Dorado 
and Placer, in California, and Washoe, 
Ormsby and Douglas, in Nevada, all share 
in the waters of the Tahoe. Where the 
line was surveyed through the lake it is 
1,700 feet deep. 



There are three steamboats on the lake' 
but only one, the "Stanford," takes ex- 
cursionists. The trip on this steamer is 
very fi' e, but for our persvial use, not the 
way we like to travel for sight-.seeing, at 
this, the loveliest of all drives in the world. 
Our choice, is a good saddle animal, or a 
good team of horses, an agreeable com- 
panion, and start around the western shore, 
tsix miles from Tahoe, over a beautiful 
road, we reach Sugar Pine Point, a spur of 
mountains covered with a splendid forest 
of sugar pine, the most valuable lumber, 
for ail uses, found on the Pacific coast. 
Tliere^ are fine streams running into the 
lake on each side of the point. We now 
arrive at Emerald Bay, a beautiful, placid 
inlet, two miles long, which seems to hide 
itself among the pine-clad hills. It is not 
over 400 yards wide at its mouth, but 



CROFUTT S KEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



153 



widens to two miles inland, forming one 
of the prettiest land-locked harbors in the 
world. It is owned by Ben Holiday. At 
the south end of Talioe, near the site of the 
Old Lake House, near Tallac Point, Lake 
Valley Creek enters the lake, having wiiund 
among the hills for many miles since it 
left the springs and snows which leed it. 
The valley of Lake Creek is one of the 
loveliest to be found among the Sierras. 
The whole distance, from the mountain 
slope to the lake, is one continual series of 
verdant meadows, dotted with milk 
ranches, where the choicest butter and 
cheese are manufactured. The next ob- 
ject of interest met witn is a relic of the 
palmy dajs of staging: 

Friday Station, an old stage station, 
established by Burke in 1859, on the Placer- 
ville and Tahoe stage road. Ten miles 
further on we come to Uie Glenbrook House 
a favorite resort for tourists. Frim Glen- 
brook House thei-e Is a fine road to Carson 
City, between which ply regular stages. 
This is alovely place, and a business place 
too, as a half-dozen saw n ills are located 
here, which turn out a million and a half 
feet of lumbi r weekly. 

Four miles further we come to 

The Cave, a cavern in the hillside fully 
100 feet above and overhanging the lake. 

Following around to the north end of the 
lake, and but a short distance away, aie the 
celebrated Hot Springs, lying just across 
the State line, in Nevada. Near them is a 
splendid spring of clear, cold water, totally 
devoid (f miweral taste. The next object 
which attracts our attention is Cornelian 
Bay, a beautiful indeuiure in the coast, 
with fine gravel bottom. Thus far there 
has been scarcely a point from which the 
descent to the water's edge is not smooth 
and eas}-. 

Passing on around to the westsidewe re- 
turn to Tahoe City. Around the lake the 
land is generally level for some distance 
back, and covered with i>ine, fir and bal- 
sam timber, embracing at least 800 sections 
of as fine timbered land as the State 
affords. It is easy of acccs? and handy to 
Biarket, the logs being rafted down the 
lake to the Truckee, and thence down to 
any point on the railroad above Reno. So 
much for the general appearance of Lake 
Tahoe. To understand its beauties, one 
must go there and spend a short time. 
"When once there, sailina; on the beautiful 
lake, gazing far down its shining, pebbly 
bottom, hooking the sparkling trout that 



make the pole sway and bend in the hand 
like a willow wand, few will have a desire 
to hurry away, if one tires of the line and 
of strolling along the beach, or sailing over 
the lake, a tramp into the hills with a gun 
will be rewarded by the si'gJit of quail, 
grouse, deer and possibly a bear. 

We have now circled .the lake and can 
judge of its dimensions, which are 22 
miles in length and ten in width. 

AVhile on a recent visit to San Fran- 
cisco, we learned, on good authority, that 
a movement was on foot, iiri ed by several 
capitalists in that city, to build a large 
hotel at Tallac Point during the j'ear,from 
which a stage line will convey passengers 
over the High Sierras, via Hope Valley 
and Blue Lake, to the Calavera Big 
Trees; distance 65 miles; fare, about $20. 
This would certainly be a lovely trip, 
passing as it does, through the grandest 
of the High Sierra range, and to the noted 
Blue Lake, so long talked about as the 
great reservoir from which the City of San 
Francisco is to be supplied with water in 
the future. For scenery, variety of game, 
trout, etc., this route will be found very 
attra tive. 

We will now return to Truckee. 

DoNNER Lake— a lovely little lakelet, 
the "Gem of the Sierras," "lies two and a 
half miles northwest of Truckee. It is 
about three and a half miles long, with an 
average width of one mile, and at the deep- 
est point sounded, is about 200 feet. This 
and Lake Tahoe are, by some, thought to 
be the ( raters of old volcanoes, the moun- 
tains around them presenting unmistak- 
able evidences of volcanic formation. The 
waters of both lakes are cold and clear as 
crystal, the bottom showing every pebble 
with great distinctness under water 50 feet 
deep. It is surrounded on three sid(S by 
towering mountains, covered with a heavy 
growth of fir, spruce and pine trees of im- 
mense size. Were it not for the occasional 
rattling of the cars, away up the mountain 
side, as they toil upward to the " Summit," 
and the few cabins scattered here and there 
along the shore, one ■would fancy that he 
was in one of nature's secret retreats, where 
man had never ventured before. A small 
stream, which tumbles down the mountain 
side, winds its way through the dense 
wood, and empties its ice-cold flood in the 
upper end or head of the lake, which rests 
against the foot of "Summit" Mountain. 
From the Lake House, situated as it is on 
a low, gravelly flat, shaded by giant j^ines, 



154 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



a very flue view of fhc ra'.lroad can l)e ob- 
laiiicd. Williin sight are four timncls and 
several miles of snow-sheds, while behind 
and seemingly overhanging the road, the 
mountains — ba^d, bleak, bare, massive 
pile^ of granite— tower far ab3ve their 
prec ipitous sides, seeming to bid defiance 
to the ravages of time. A fine road has 
been graded along the right-hand shore, 
from the station, forming a splendid drive. 
The " old emigrant road" skirts the foot of 
the lake (where the Douner party per- 
ished, see A>xEX No. C3), and following up 
the stage road, climbs the " Summit " just 
beyond the long tunnel. Originally, it 
iitruck the Divide at Summit Yallcy; from 
thence it followed the valley down for 
several miles, then struck across the crest- 
spur, and followed the Divide down from 
Emigrant Gap. 

The business of lumbering is carried on 
quite extensively at tlie lower end of the 
lake. The logs are slid down the moun- 
tain sides in"" shoots," or troughs made 
of large trees, into the lake, and then rafted 
down to the mill. On the west side of the 
lake the timber has nt-t been disturbed, but 
sweej^s down from the railroad to the 
water's edge in one dense imbroken forest. 
The lower'eud of the lake is bordered with 
green meadows, covering an extent of 
several hundred acres of line grazing land. 
Fro;n the foot of the lake issues a 
beautiful creek, which, after uniting with 
Coldstream, forms the Little Truckee 
River 

Coldstream — is a clear, cold mountain 
stream, about fifteen miles long. It rises 
in the "Summit" Mountain, opposite 
Summit A^alley. Some excellent grazing 
laud borders the creek after it leaves the 
mountain gorge. 

Fishing akd Hunting— In Donner and 
Tahoe lakes is found the silA-er trout, 
which attains the Aveight of 20 pounds. 
Tliere are many varieties of fish in these 
lakes,but this is most prized and most sought 
after by the angler. It is rare sport to 
bring to the Avater's edge one of these 
sleek-hided, sharp'biting fellows — to handle 
him delicately and daintily until he is safely 
landed ; and then, Avhen fried, baked, or 
broiled brown, the employment of the jaws 
to masticate the crisp, juicy morsels — it's 
not bad jawing. Tlie water near the lake 
shore is fairly alive Avith white fish, dace, 
rock-fish, and several other varieties — the 
trout keeping in deeper water. There is 
no more favorite resort for the angler and 



hunter than these lakes and the surround- 
ing mountains, where quail, grouse, deer, 
and bear abound. 

These lakes Avere once a favorite resort 
for the "San Francisco schoolmarms," 
AA'ho annually A'isit thii locality during the 
summer vacation. The Railroad Company 
generally passed them OA-er the route, and 
they hatl a happy Aveek — romping, scram- 
bling and wandering OA'er the mountains, 
and along the lake shore, giving ncAV life 
and animation to the scene. The graj^ old 
hills and mighty forests re-echo witli their 
merry laughter, as they stroll around the 
lake, gathering flowers and mosses, or, per- 
haps, essaying their skid as anglers, to 
the great slaughter of the finny inhabitants 
of tiie lake. 

Sierra Valley — lies about 30 miles 
from Truckee City, among the Sierras, It 
is about 40 miks long, with a Avidth of 
from five to seven miles. It is fertile, 
thickly settled, and taken in connection 
Avith some other mountain valleys, might 
be termed the Orange c'ounty of Calilbrnia 
— from the quantity and cpialitj^ of butter 
and cheese manufactured there. In the 
mountain A'alleys and on the table-lands 
the best butter" and cheese found in the 
State are manufactured— the low valleys 
being too warm, and the grasses and Avater 
not so good as found here. In Sierra, and 
many other mountain A-alley.s, good crops 
of grain and vegetables are grown in 
favorable seasons, but the surest and most 
Ijrofitable business is dairying. The 
flourishing tOAvn of Royalton is situated in 
this vallc}'. 

Honey Lake — an almost circular sheet 
of water, about ten miles in diameter, lies 
ab'ait 50 miles north of Truckee City. 
Willow Creek and Susan Creek enter it at 
the north, while Lone Valley Creek 
empties its waters into the southern por- 
tion cf the lake. Some fine meadoAv and 
grazing land is found in the valleys 
bordering these streams, which has been 
occupied by settlers, and couA-erted into 
flourishing farms. 

Susanviile, the^ principal town in the 
valley, is situated north ( f the lake. It is 
connected by stage with Reno, Nevada, 
and Oroville, California. 

We now take leave of Truckee City and 
its surroundings, and prepare to cross tlie 
"Summit of the Sierras," 14 miles dis- 
tant. With two locomotives leading, we 
cross the North Fork or Little Truckee on 
a single-span Howe truss bridge, and make 



CKOFUTT S XEAV aVEKLAXD TOUniST 



155 . 



directly aci'oss the broken land bordering 
the Ifike meadows, for the foot of tlie 
Sierras. Then skirting along the hill-side, 
through long snow sheds, with the spark- 
ling Coldstream on our right, winding 
through the grassey valley and among 
waving ])ines, lor 0.52 miles, we pass 

{Strong's Canyon — and bend, 
around the southern end of the valley, 
which borders DouuerLake, then crossing 
Coldstream, commence the ascent of the 
mountains. Soon after passing this side- 
track, our train enters a snow shed, 
which — with a number of tunnels, — is 
continuous for ticenty-cight mile-, Avilh but 
a few " ])eek-holes," through which to get 
a glimpse at the beaulilul scenery along 
this part of the route — yet, we shall de- 
scribe it, all the s me. As the train skirts 
the eastera base, rising higher and higher, 
Donncr Lake is far below, looking like a 
lake of silver set in the shadows of green 
forests and brown mountains. Up still, 
the long, black Ihie of the load bending 
around and seemingly stealing away in the 
same direction in which we are moving, 
though far below us, jioiuts out the wind- 
ing course we have followed. 

Up, still up, higher and higher toils the 
train, through the long line of snow-sheds 
leading to the first tunnel, while the loco- 
motives are snorting an angry defiance as 
they enter the gloomy, rock-bound chamber. 
SSuniiuit — is 14.31 miles wi st of 
Truckee, the highest point on the Sierra 
Nevada Mountains, passed over by the 
Central Pacific railroad, 7,017 feet above 
the level of the sea. Distance from Omaha, 
1,GG0 miles ; from San Francisco, 245 miles. 
This is not the highest Ijnd of the Sierra 
Nevada ^Mountains, by any means, for 
bleak and bare of vendure, rise the granite 
l)eaks around us, to an altitude of over 
10,000 feet. Piles of granite— their weather- 
stained and moss-clad sides glistening in 
the morning sun — rise between us and the 
" western shore," hiding from our siglitthe 
vast expanse of plain tliat we know lies be- 
tween us and the golden shores of the 
Pacific Ocean. Scattering groups of hardy 
fir and spruce, line tho mountain gorges, 
where rest the everlasting snows that have 
rested in the deep shady gu ches, near the 
summit of these towering old mountains — 
who can tell how- long V They have lain, 
evidently, s'nce Adam w^as a very small 
boy, or the tree sjnouted from which our 
apple-loving ancestor, Eve, plucked thai 
bede\iied fruit. 



We are on the dividing ridges which, 
separate the head-waters of several moun- 
tain rivers, which, l)y different and tor- 
tuous courses, find at last the s ime common 
receptacle for their snow-fed wa'ers-the- 
Sacramento River. Close to our right, 
far down in that fir-clad gorge, the waters- 
of the South Yuba leap aud'dance along, 
amid dense ai;d gloomy forests, and over 
almost countless rapids, cascat es and 
waterfalls. This stream heads against and 
far np the Summit, one branch crossing 
the road at the next station. Cascade. After 
passing Cisco, the head waters of Bear 
KivLr can l;e seen lying between the Divide 
and the Yuba, whicli winds away be- 
yond, out of sight, behind anoher mountain 
ridge. Farther on still, and Ave find the 
American River on our left. These streams- 
reach the same ending the Sacramento River 
but ai'e far apa't, whire they mingle with 
that stream. There is no grander scenery 
in the Sierras, of towering mountains, deep 
gorges, lofty precipices, sparkling water- 
falls and crystal lakes, than abound withia 
an eas/ distance! of this place. The tourist 
can find scenes of the deepest interest and 
grandest beau1\-;the scholar and philoso- 
pher, objects of rare value for scientific in- 
vestigation ; the hunter and the angler can 
find an almost UDlimitcd fiekl for his 
amusement; the former in the gorges of 
the mountains, where the timid detn- and 
fierce grizzly bear make their homes; the 
latter among the mountain lakes atd 
streams, where the speckle I trout leaps in 
its joyous I'reedom, Avhile around all, is the 
music of snow-led mountain torrent and 
mountain breeze, and over all is the clcai- 
blue sky rf a sunny clime, tempered and 
sofiened' by the shadows of the everlasting 
hills. 

TuxNELS AND Snow^-Sheds — From the 
time theroad enters the cret^ts of the " Sum- 
mit," it passes through a succession of tun- 
nels and snow-sheds so closely connected 
that th.; traveler can hardly tell when V e 
cars enter or leave a tunuel."^ The Su'i mit 
tunnel, the longest of the number, is 1,659 
feet long, the others ranging iVom lOO to 
870 feet In length. 

The snow-sheds are solid structures, built 
of sawed and round timber, completely 
roofing In the road Ihr many miles Csee- 
illustration, pp. 72-67-143). AVhen theroad 
was completed, there were 23 miles of shed 
built, at an actual cost of .f 10,000 per mile. 
With the additions since made, the line 
reaches about 45 miles, which includes the- 



156 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



•whole length of the deep fnow line on the 
■dividing ridge. When we consider that 
along tlie summit the snow falls from IG to 
:20 feet deep during a wet winter, we can 
imagine the necessity and importance of 
these structures. By this means the track 
is as clear from snow in the winter as are 
the valleys. The mighty avalanches which 
sweep down the mountain sides in spring, 
bearing everything before them, pass over 
the si ^ping roofs of the sheds and plunge 
into the chasms below, while beneath tlie 
rushing mass the cars glide smoi thly 
idong, Ihe passengers hardly knowiog but 
that ll hey are in the midst of an enormous 
tunnel. 

Where the road lies clear on the divide 
or level land, the sheds have sharp roofs, 
like those of any buildmg calculated to 
withstand a great weight of snow. But 
where the road is built against the side of 
these bare peaks, the roof of the shed can 
have but one slope, and that must reach the 
mountain side, to enable the " snow-slides" 
to cross the road without doing harm to 
that or the passing trains. (See illustration, 
pages, 67 and 143.) 

Fires sometimes canse damage to sheds 
and road, but seldom any delay to the 
trains, as the conipauy have materials of all 
kinds on hand for any emergency, and, 
with their swarm of men, can replace 
everything almost a^ quick as it is de- 
stroyed; but, to tarther protect the snow- 
sheds and bridges from tire, and the more 
etiectually to extinguish them, the Railroad 
Company have stationed the locomotive 
Grey Eagle at the Summit (with ster.m al- 
ways up and ready to answer a summons), 
with a force pump of large capacity, sup- 
plied with steam from the engine. At- 
tached to the locomotive are eight water 
cars, the tanks on which are connected 
with each other and with the tender of the 
engine, so that the supply of water will al- 
ways be sufficient to check any ordinary fire. 

The Summit House, located at the sta- 
tion, is one of the best hotels on the road 
and can furnish tourists with every accom- 
modation required, while, spendiug a few 
days or weeks exploring tbis very inter- 
esting region. 

Passengers from the West, desiring to 
visit Lake Tahoe, can take a stage at the 
Summit House, which will afford them a 
line view of Donner Lake, white rolling 
down the mountain and around to the 
north and east side of it, en route to Tahoe. 
Returning, those who choose, can take the 



cars for the East, at Truckee, without re- 
turning to the Summit. Fare for the 
" round trip," $G.UO. 

Leaving tlie Summit, we pass on through 
the long shed, and tunnels alternately, 
around the base of towering peaks anon 
over high, bare ridges, then through grand 
old forests, for 5.77 miles to 

Cascade — Here we cross one of the 
branches of the Yuba, which goes leaping 
down the rocks in a sho\ver of spray dur- 
ing the summer, bnt in the winter the 
chasm shows naught but a bed of snow 
and ice. 

Summit valley, one of the loftiest of the 
Siena valleys, lies to the west, abroad, 
grassy meadow, dotted with trees and ly- 
ing between two lofty mountains, about 
two miles long by one mile wide. It is 
covered with a luxuriant growth of grass, 
affording pasturage tor large bauds of cat- 
fe, duiing the summer. It is ail occupied 
by dairymen and stock raisers, at whose 
comfortable dwellings the tourist will find 
a hearty welcome. It is a delightful sum- 
mer retreat; a favorite resort for those wlio 
prefer the mountains, with their cool 
breezes and pure water. The valley is 
watered by many springs and snow-fed 
rivulets, \\hose waters flow to the Ameri- 
can River. 

This valley is becoming noted in a busi- 
ness point of view, as well as being a place 
of summer resort. It is becoming cele- 
brated as a meat packing station, it having 
b en demonstrated that pork and beef 
can be successfully cured here during any 
portion of the year. 

Soda Springs — are situated near the 
foot of Summit Valley, their waters unit- 
ing with others, forming the head waters 
of the American River. The springs are 
very large and numerous, and the water is 
pronoun'ced to be the best medicinal water 
in the State. It is a delightful drink, cool 
and sparkling, possessing the taste of the 
best quality of manufactured soda water. 
The larger of the springs have been im- 
proved, and great quantities of the water 
are now bottled and shipped to all parts of 
the Siale. Near the Soda Springs are 
others, the waters of which are devoid of 
mineral or aciduous taste, and boiling hot. 

In the summer these springs are much re- 
soried to by people from the "Bay." There 
is a comfortable hotel at the Springs which 
is reached from the Summit by stage, and 
sometimes at a side- track, called " Soda 



CEOFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



157 



Spring S ation," uudway between Sum- 
mit and Cascade staiions. 

Tainerack — is tlic next station, 4.2 
miiCs from Cascade, and 3.51 miles from 

Cisco— At one time this Ava^ quite an 
important place, being the "terminus" 
during the time occupied in tunneling 
through the summit ; </ie«, it was a place 
of 500 inhabitants, now., a score or so make 
up the town. 

From tliis station we pa«s along rapidly 
and easily, without the help of the locomo- 
tive. To the right, occasional glimpses of 
the Bear aud Yul)a Rivers can \m, teen 
far below us. 

Emigrant Gap— is 8 5 miles west 
of Cisco, at the place where the old emi- 
grant road crossed the Divide, and fol- 
lowed down the ridges to the valley of the 
Sacramento. The emigrants passed o'oer 
the "gap," we pass vnder it, making a 
slight "difterence in elevation between the 
two roads, as well as a diti^erence in the 
mode of traveling. We have seen the last 
of the old emigrant road that we have fol- 
lowed so far. No more will the weary emi- 
grant toil over the long and weary journey. 
Space is annihilated, aud the tireless iron 
horse will henceforth haul an iron wagon 
over an iron road, landing the tourist and 
emigrant fresh and hearty, after a week's 
ride, from the far eastern sliores of our 
country to the far western — from ocean to 
ocean. 

Passing on amid the grand old pines, 
leaving the summit peaks behind, we turn 
up Blue Canyon, the road-bed on the oppo- 
site bank apparently running parallel 
with the one we are traver-ing. Swinging 
around the head of the canyon, past saw- 
mills and lumber side-tracks, 5."^ miles, 
we reach 

Bine Canyon — a freight and lum- 
ber station, where immense quantities of 
lumber are shipped from mills in the vicin- 
ity. Before the railroad reached these 
mountains, the lumber interest of this sec- 
tion was of little value, there being only a 
local demand, which hardly paid for build- 
ing mills and keeping teams. The mines 
were then the only market— the cost of 
freight to the vallej's forbidding competi- 
tion with the Puget Sound lumber trade, 
or with mills sitmited so much nearer the 
agricultural districts. Now the lumbercan 
be sent to the valleys, and sold as cheaply 
as any. in a market rarely overstocked ; for 
the one item of lumber forms one of the sta- 
ple market articles, ruling at more regular 



prices, and being in better demand than 
any other article of trade, on the coast, if 
we except wheat. 

Leaving Blue Canyon, we speed along 
around the hill-sides, past 

China Ranch — a sidetrack, about two 
miles west. The passenger should now 
watch the scenery on the left. 

Shady Run— is 4 72 miles west of 
Blue Canyon, but passenger trains seldom 
^top. On the left, south side, can be seeo 
one of the grandest gorges in the Sierra 
Nevada Mouutains, "The Great American 
Canyon" (See illustration, page 130). At 
tlii< point tlie American River Is com- 
pressed between two walls, 2,000 feet high, 
and so nearly perpendicular that we can 
stand on the brink of the clifi' and lo,jk 
directly down on the foaming waters I e- 
low. The canyon is about two miles long, 
and so precipitous are its sides, which are 
washed by the torrent, that it has been 
found impossible to ascend the stream 
through the gorge, even on loot. This is a 
be lutiful view — one of nature's most mag- 
nificant panoramas. But we soon lose 
sight of it, as our train turns to the right,, 
up a side canyon, 4.84 miles from Shady 
Run, and stojis at 

Alta — Alta looks old and w^eather- 
beafen, and its half-dozen board houses, 
with sharp roofs, look as though there was 
little less than a century between the pres- 
ent and the time when they were ushered 
into existence — like its namesake in San 
Francisco, after which it w^as named. 

Dutch Flat — is 1.87 miles from Alta; 
old settlers call it German Level. The 
town of Dutch Flat is situated in ahollow, 
near by and to the right of the road, a por- 
tion of it lieing in plain view. The town 
contains many good buildings, churches, 
schools, and hotels. The Farmer, a weekly 
newspaper, is a new institution at Dutch 
Flat. Population, about 2,000. One feature 
of this town is worth notiug, ami worthy 
of commendation — the beautiful gardens 
and fine orchards which ornament almost 
every house. In almost all of the moun- 
tain towns — in fact in all of the older min- 
ing toAvns — the scene is reproduced, while 
many of the valley towns are bare of vines, 
flowers or fruit trees; the miner's cabin has 
its garden aud fruit trees attached, if water 
can be had for irrigation, while half of the 
farm-houses have neither fruit trees, shrubs, 
flowers nor gardens around them. 

Stages leave this station daily for Little 
York, You Bet and Red Dog. Freight 



158 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



teams leave here for all the above named 
towns and mining camps in this vicinity. 

Little York — a mining town, three 
miles northwest of Dutch Flat, contains 
about 500 inbabilauts. 

You Bet — is six miles from Little York, 
also a mining town, about tlie same size. 

Red Dog — seven and a-half miles from 
You Bet, is still another small mining town. 

These towns are situated on what is 
called the Blue Lode, the best large placer 
mining dis rict in the State. The traveler 
will see the evidences of the vast labor 
performed here, while standing on the 
platform of the cars at Alta, Dutch Fiat or 
.Oo'd Run f^tatious. The Blue Lode ex- 
tends from below Gold Run, through the 
length of Nevada, on, into and th^iough 
a portion of Sierra county. It is supposed 
to be the bed of some ancient river, which 
"was much larger than any of the existing 
mountain s' reams. The course of this old 
river was nearly at right angles with that 
followed by the Yuba and other streams, 
■which run across it. The channel is from 
one to five miles wide in places — at least 
the gravel hills, which are supposed to 
cover the bed, extend for that distance 
across the range. Many of these gravel 
hills are from 100 to 500 
feet high, covered with 
pine trees from two to 
six feet in diameter. 
Petrified trees, oak and 
pine, and other woods, 
such as m a n z a n i t a , 
mountain maho g a u y 
and maple, are found 
in the bed of the river, 
showing that the same 
varieties of wood existed 
when this great change 
was wrought, as are 
now growing on the 
adjacent hill-sides. 

Hydrauijc Mining— 
The traveler will ob- 
serve by the road-side, 
mining ditches and 
flumes, carrying a large 
and rapid stream of 
water. These ditches 
extend for many miles, 
tapping the rivers near 
their sources — near the 
regions ot perpetual 
snow. By this means 
the water is conveyed 
over the tops of the 



hills, whence it is carried to any claim 
below it. The long, high and nar- 
row flume, called a " telegraph," car- 
ries the water from the ditch, as 
nearly level as possible, over the c aim 
to be worked. To the " telegraph " is at- 
tached a hose with an iron pipe, or nozzle, 
through which the water ruslies with great 
velocity. When directed against a gravel 
bank, it cuts and tears it down, washing 
the dirt thoroughly, at a rate astonishing 
to those unacquainted with hydraulic min- 
ing. (See J ccompanying illustration.) The 
water carries rocks, dirt and sand through 
the tail race, and into the long flimes, 
where the riffles for collecting the gold are 
placed. Miles and miles of the flumes 
have been built, at an enormous expense, 
to save the gold carried away in the tail- 
ings. 

Around Little York and You Bet, the 
lode is mixed too much with cement to 
mine in this manner with profit, hence 
mills have been erected where the cement 
is worked in the same manner as quartz 
rock — ci'ushed and then amalgamated. 

liioIclKuil — is 2. 13 miles beyond Dutch 
Flat, and is a small mining town, contain- 
ing about 200 inhabitants. Around it you 




HYDRAULIC MINING. 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



159 



can see, on every hand, the miner's work. 
Long flume beds, which carry ofi" the 
washed gravel and retain the gold; long 
and large ditches fall of ice-cold water, 
which, directed by skillful hands, are fast 
tearing down the mountains and sending 
the washed debris to till the river-beds in 
the plains below. There are a set of 
"pipes" busily playing against the 
hill-side, which often comes down in 
acres. All is life, energy and activity. 
We don't see many children peeping out 
of those cabins, for they are not so plcntful 
in the mining districts as in Salt Lake. 
But we do see nearly all of the cabins sur- 
rounded with little gardens and orchards, 
which produce the finest of fruits. 

Descending the mountain rapidly, amid 
mining claims, by the side of large ditches, 
through the deep gravel cuts.'and along 
the grassy hill-sides, until, on the left, a 
glimpse of the North Fork of the Ameri- 
can River can be had, foaming and dasii- 
ing along in a narrow gorge full 1,500 
feet beneath us. Farther on we see the 
North Fork of the North Fork, dashing 
down the steep mountain at riglit angles 
with the other, leaping from waterfall to 
•waterfall, its sjiarkling current resembling 
' an airy chain of danc- 
ing sunbeams, as it has. 
tens on to unite with 
the main stream. Now 
we lose sight of it, while 
it passes through one of 
those grand canyons on- 
ly to be met with in these 
mountains. 

C. H. Mills— a sta- 
tion where trains sel- 
dom stop, is 5.96 miles 
from Gold Run. The 
passenger should be on 
the lookout, and look to 
the left— south— as the 
scene changes withevery 
revolution of the wheels. 
A few moments ago we 
left the canyon behind — 
now, behold, it breaks 
on our view again, and 
this time right under u^ 
as it were, but much 
farther down. It seems 
as Lhough we could j um p 
from the platform into 
the river, so close are we 
to the brink of the preci- 
pice; steadily on goes 



the long train, while far below us the wa 
ters dance along, the river looking like a 
winding thread of silver laid in the bottom 
of the chasm, 2,500 feet below us. This is 
Cape Horn, one of the grandest scenes on 
the American Continent, if not in the 
world. Timid ladies will draw back with 
a shudder — one look into the awful chasm 
being sufficient to unsettle their nerves, 
and deprive them of the wish to linger 
near the grandest scene on the whole line 
of the trans-continental railroad. 

Now look farther down the river and 
behold that black speck spanning the sil- 
vtrline. That is the turnpike bridge on 
the road to Iowa Hill, though it looks no 
larger than a foot plank. Now we turn 
sharp around to our right, where the 
towering masses of rock have been cut 
down, aftbrding a road-bed, where a few 
years ago the savage could not make a 
foot trail. Far above us they rear their 
black crests, towering away, as it were, 
to the clouds, their long shadows ftilling 
far across the lovely little val'ey now ly- 
ing on our left, and a thousand feet below 
us still. We have lost sight of the river, 
and are following the mountain side, look- 
ing for a place to cross this valley and 




ROUXDING CAPE HORN 



160 



I'ACIFIC COAST (;uii)i-: 




LOOKING UP AT CAPE HORX bti" UCXt page. 



rACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



Ifil 



reach the road-bed on the opposite side, 
which we caa see ruL.s parallel witli us. 
Soon it is found, and turnin2; to our left, 
we cross the valley — Rice's Ravine— on a 
trestle bridge 113 feet liigh and 878 feet 
long, under which can be seen the track of 
the nariow gauge railroad, from Colfax 
to Nevada. Gradually the height grows 
less, until it is reduced, at the end of 600 
feet, enough to admit of an embankment 
being raised to meet it. On, over the em- 
bankment, which cu ves around to the 
left, and now we are on the so,"d liill-side, 
and running along opposite the road by 
which we passed up the valley. We now 
have our last and best lo6k at the bold 
blufi'. 

The best view of this noted place is ob- 
ta ned when going cast, or from the river 
below. Viewed from the river, the pass- 
ing train looks like some huge monster 
winding around the blufl', bold point, 
putting and blowing with i's herculean 
labors, or scream ng angry nutes of de- 
fiance, or perhaps of ultimate triumph at 
the obstacles overcome (see page 160) 

When the road was in course of con- 
struction, the groups of Chinese laborers 
on the blutfs looked almo.st like swarms of 
ants, when viewed from the river. Years 
ago, the canning savage could find only 
a very roundabout trail by which to ascend 
the point, where now the genius and 
energ,' of the pale-face has laid a broad ' 
and safe road, wlurcou the iron steed car. ' 
ries its living freight swiftly and safely on 
their way to and from ocean to ocean. 

AVhen the road-bed was constructed 
around this point, the men who broke the 
first standmg ground were held by ropes 
until tirm foot-holds could be excavated 
in the rocky side-' of the precipitous bluffs. 

Col fax— is 4.5 miles from C. II. Mills, 
two miles west of the high bridge, trains 
until recently stopped for meals, they 
now stof) at Sacramento. 
The company nave a large depot here, tin's 
being tlie distributing point for freight 
bound for Grass Valley, Nevada, and a 
large scope of mining country. The town 
is named in honor of Schuj-ler Colfax, 
one of the warmest friends and earliest 
supporters of the road. 

Colfax is a substantial railroad town. 
It contains about 1,0(!0 inhabitants, is well 
watered, and has an air of general du'ift 
about it, which marks all tne permanent 
towns along the road. The school and 
church accommodatiors: are ample; the 
11 



climate is invigora ing and healthy, and 
the inhabitants a thrift}-, driving, enter, 
prising people; tlie greater number, n;u 
fives of the State of Illinois, who emi- 
orated to this countiy in early days — 
i84'J— 50. 

Illinois Town — is a lialf-mile west, 
once a noted freighting point for the sur- 
rounding mines, now the only business is 
raising fruit, apples, peaches and pears. 

Iowa Hill — is a mining town, 13 miles 
south of Colfax. A good toll road crosses 
the American River on the bridge which 
we saw when rounding Cape Horn, and 
follows up the mountain to the town, 
which contains about 250 inhabitants. 
Formerly stages ran daili/ to Iowa Hill 
and the mining camps to the southward, 
but for some reason, they now run only 
semi-occasionally. Private conveyance can 
always be secured at Colfax at reasonable 
charge. 

As our trip is for pleasure, and to see all 
that is woi'tli seeing, we will need to take 
a trip to the old mining towns of Grass 
Valley and Nevada. 

;Xevada County Narro^ir Gauge 
Railroad. 

General OfQces are at Grass Valley. 

J. C. CoLEM AX President. 

John F. Kiddp:r General Superintendent. 

Geo. Fletcher Secretary. 

This road is a thi\e-foot narrow gauge; 
commenced in January, 1875, and com. 
pleted May 22, 1876: length, 223^ miles. 
This is a very crooked road has 15 trestle 
bridges, aggregating 5,176 feet, two truss 
bridges, each 165 feet long, and 97 and 85 
feet high, respectively; and two tunnels, 
aggregating 800 feet. As for the scenery — 
well, it is immense — the rspid and aston- 
ishing changes remind one of WxQkaleid- 
osc'pe, and its wond"ous changes. Here 
are to be seen every variety of mountain 
sceuerj', as though a choice morsel of each 
of the grand beauties of nature had slipped 
from tiie liand of the great Architect while 
distributing them, giving such a variety of 
magnificent views as are seldom, if ever, 
found ii; tlie same distance traveled. 

On the route we shall pass through 
fearful chasms, and tortuous canyons ; 
under and over lofty bridges, through 
forests, beside green fields and tower- 
ing mountains ; tall pines and diminu- 
tive manzanitas; huge furnaces, and 
thundering cpiartz mills ; long flumes 



162 



CKOFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



and beautiful cascades; large rivers, 
and tiny sparkling creeks ; dark and 
glooni}- gorges, and fruit-laden orchards; 
old placer diggings, new diggings, and 
immense quartz mines. But come along, 
and take a look. The train stands just on 
the south side of the depot at Colfax, and 
leaves on the arrival of the overland train. 

Passing along to the eastward, we gradu- 
ally descend the canyon with the track of 
the C. P. road av/ay above us on Ihe left, 
and again to the right, where it curves 
around Cape Horn, a beautiful view of 
which is obtained. Following on up, we 
pass viider the high bridge of the Central, 
one and a-half miles trom Colfax, and 
reach the Divide, where the waters run to 
the north, to Bear River — which we soon 
reach and cross on a bridge ToO feet long, 
and 97 feet high; amid towering pine and 
spruce trees and the most romantic scen- 
ery — then, 4.5 miles from Colfax, we come 
to the side-track station of 

Yuxj Bet— the town of Avhich is four 
miles to the east — heretofore described. 
We now come to the Greenhorn. Follow- 
ing it up through a 850-foot tunnel, we 
cross that creek on a trestle and bridge TOO 
feet long; on, up and over another 450 feet 
trestle, along the side of the mountain, 
overlooking the Greenhorn, around the 
great " S " curve, on a grade of 105 feet to 
the mile; through heavy rock cuts, almost 
doubling back on our route. 

Storms — another side-track, by a great 
saw-mill, is four miles further, but the 
trains stop only on signal. The moun- 
tains on the route up to this staiion are 
covered with pines, spruce and oaks. The 
chasms are fearfully grand in places on 
the left. 

BuENA Vista — another side-track, in the 
Noonday Valley, is four miles from Storms, 
from whence, continuing on up two miles, 
wc reach 

Kress Summit— with an altitude of 
2,851 feet. From the summit the descent 
is rapid, 151 feet to the mile; the moun- 
tains are here covered with small pines 
and manzanitas, the big timber that once 
covered them having long since been cut 
off, and used to a great extent in the mines 
at Grass Valley. On the road down, we 
pass many evidences of placer mining, and, 
doubtless, will see some ChinamenVork- 
iug over the old placers near Union Hill. 
On the left are several old mills, and just 
before reaching Grass Valley, away to the 
right, across a low place in the ridge, can 



be seen two great Quartz Mills — the Idaho 
and Eureka. Those mills, although now 
on our rights will be on our left tifter we 
l^ass the next station. The distance across 
from track to track is 1,200 feet; around, it 
is three miles 

Grass Valley— This is an old and still 
a thriving mining town of lull 7,500 in- 
habitants. It is situated 17 miles from 
Colfax, 35 miles cast of Marysville, and 
five and a-half miles west of Nevada; on 
the sides of the hills, along the ravines, 
with comfortable little residences scattered 
about the nooks and gulches promiscu- 
ously. It contains some good business 
blocks, and seme tine private residences. 
The private dwellings, generally, are en- 
closed in line orchards and gardens, which 
give them an air of comfort and home-like 
beaut3^ The town derives its prominence 
from the quartz mines in and around it. 
No town in the State has produced au 
equal amount of gold from quartz, and 
noiie has added more real wealth to the 
State at large. 

In September, 1850, a miner picked up 
a piece of gold-bearing quartz on Gold 
Hill. From this, prospecting commenced, 
and soon several valuable mines were 
opened. In 1851, the first quartz mill was 
erected in Boston Ravine, now one of the 
most populous portions of the town. 

Grass Valley now contains 19 quartz 
mills, agregating 305 stamps, besides 
three large de-sulphurising works. The 
city is illuminated with gas, has two good 
hotels — the Exchange and the Wisconsin, 
one daily newspaper, the Grass Valley 
Union, and the Fnothill Tidings, a weekly. 
Of the quartz mills, one is worthy of special 
note — the Idaho. Up to January, 1877, 
this mill had never failed to pay a divi- 
dend for 100 months in succession, varying 
from $5 to $25 per share. There are 3,100 
shares of a par value of $100; and these 
shares have sold as high as $750 each. The' 
total receipts for uineyears were $4,589,- 
255; dividends paid, $2,270,750. 

Stages leave Grass Valley for Marys- 
ville, west 35 miles. Leaving the depot, 
which is on the south side and overlooking 
the town, we turn east, leaving the Idaho 
mill and the old Eureka mill, (now aban- 
doned), on our left, and follow up through 
a section of country where are long flumes, 
and many signs of placer mining, as well 
as old washed out diggings. We pass 
some orchards of fruit, a little meadow- 
land, cross Wolff Creek, see the Chinamen 



CROFUTT S ^•E^^' C>VEnLAXI) TOUniST 



163 



digging overtlie old claims, note the young 
piue-;, and the long "Y" flume which brings 
lumber from the mountains to the east- 
ward twelve miles, and climb up to the 
Town-Talk Tunnel, 450 feet long; elevation 
2,774 feet; and then descend, passing 
old mills and new mills, a portion of the 
city of Nevada, away acr ss on the oppo- 
site side of the mountain, peacefully re- 
posing — probably all unconscious of our 
near approach. On the descent to the city, 
we pass the New England mill on the 
left, and the Pittsburgh mill on the right; 
then cross a bridge 450 feet long over Gold 
Run Creek, where considerable placer 
mining is still being done, and after a run 
of live and a half miles from Grass Valley, 
arrive at 

Xevarta — This city is the county seat 
of Nevada county, situated on Deer Creek, 
a rapid stream w ith rugged canyon walls, 
and contains a population of about 4,300. 
There Are here seven stamp mills, agrega- 
ting 110 stamps, two de-sulphurizing 
"works, and, when sufficient water cau be 
had for ihe purpose, an extensive business 
is carried on in hj-draulic mining. 

The place is rather irregularlj- laid out, 
owing to the formation of tlie land and the 
creek which runs through a portion of the 
the town. There are some good business 
blocks, good county buildings, several 
hotels, of which the principal is the Union ; 
one daily newspaper, the Transoript; and 
one weekly, the Qasctte. There are some 
very nice private residences, suri-oundcd 
with orchards, fruit and beautiful shrub- 
bery, which contrast strikingly with the 
bare, brown, or red old hillsides. 

The first mining in Nevada was placer, 
creek and gulch-washing. The mines 
were very rich, and lasted several years. 
During this time the famous hill "" dig- 
gings," a part of the " old river bed," were 
discovered and opened. They, too, proved 
a source of great wealth, though many 
miners became "dead broke" b'efore the 
right system — hydraulic mining with long 
flumes — was inaugurated. Tiiese mines 
proved very extensive and lasting, and yet 
form one of the chief sources of the city's 
wealth. Of late years the attention of the 
people has been directed to cement and 
quartz mining, and several very valuable 
quartz veins have been opened, and fine 
mills erected on them. The ((uartz interest 
is now a decided feature in the business of 
the city. 

Stages leave Nevada daily for North San 



Juan, 14 miles; Comptonville, S2 miles; 
Forest City, 45 miles, and Downieville, 
50 miles. 

NoRTir San Juan — is a lively mining 
town of 1,500 inhabitants, most of whom 
are engaged in hydraulic or other min. 
ing. TiieyieldoftheMilton Com])any'smill 
for 1877, was $238,000; the Mauzanita 
mine, $155,713, tor the same year. Or- 
chai'ds and vineyards are numerous, also 
some fine private residences. 

Comptonville — is another small min- 
ing town, of about 500 inhabitants, most of 
whom a; e dependent on placer mining, 
and they have a portion of the " old chan- 
nel " or hill mines in the immediate 
vicinity. 

Forest City— is a place of about 400 
inhabitants, also a mining town, working 
" driftdiggings." 

DowNiEviLi,E — the largest town in 
Sierra county, is situated on Yuba River, 
with a population of about 1,000. 

Bloo.mfield — is twelve miles from Ne- 
vada, sometimes called ''Humbug," but the 
yield of the No- th Bloomfield Co.'s mine 
for 1877, $291,125, was not much of a 
humbug. 

With this hasty glance at a country 
wdiere the material for a big book lays 
around loose, Ave return to the Overland 
road, and again to the westward. 

Leaving Colfax, we follow down Auburn 
Ravine, at times near its bed and anon 
winding in and out among the hills, which 
are here and there covered with small 
oaks and an occasional large oak 
and pine, together with the Manzanita, a 
peculiar shrub, resembling the thoin of 
the Eastern States, which sheds its bark 
in.stead of its h aves. (See page 164.) 

K. E, Mills— is the first station after 
Colfax, 5.0 miles distant, but trains sto^i 
only on signal. The country is very rough 
and broken, and 3.31 miles more brings 
our train to 

Applegate — another side-track near 
some lime kilns. Continuing along with 
numerous cuts, fills, bridges ami one tun- 
nel near the next station, 700 feet long, for 
2.97 miles, we arrive at 
_ Clipjjer Oap— an unimportant sta- 
tion. Again onward, w"(3 leave the ravine 
and keep along the foot hills, to hold the 
grade — passing through many an old 
washed jilacer mine, in which, only a few 
short years ago, could be seen thousands of 
men digging and washing, washing and 
digging, from morning till night, seeking 



1G4 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



what is said to be " tlie root of all evil " — 
GOLD — aud a luige root 'it is; tliey all point 
to it; we are hunting it; have hunted it for 
forty years; struck the trail several time=, 
but it soon got cold ; and it has been diffi- 
cult for some time to find a "color." 

Anbni'n — The county seat of Placer 
county — is 7.71 miles west of Clipper Gap, 
and contains about 1,000 inhabitants. Gar- 
dens, vinej^ards, and orchards abound, aud 
everyihing betokens quiet, home-comforts 
and ease. It has excellent schools and 
fine churches, and is one of the neatest 
lo >king towns in the county. The public 
buildings, court-house etc., are good, and 
the grounds well kept. The greater portion 
of the dwellings stand a little distance from 
the road. The American, Orleans, and 
Railroad House, are the principal hotels. 
The Placer Herald and. the Arrjus, both 
weekly newsnapciS, are published here. 

Stages run daily from Aulniru to Pilot 
Hill, eleven mile '; Greenwood, 14 miles; 
Georgetown, 20 miles; Coloma, 22 miles; 
Forest Hill, 23 miles; Michigan Blutls, 30 
miles; Placerville, 30 miles. 

"We are now in tlie foot-hills: 

After leaving' Auburn, we pass 
through Bloomer Cut, (see illustra- 
tion, p. 168) then near the next station 
we pass over the New Castle Gap 
Bridge, Avhieh, before it was filled uj) 
with earth, was 528 feet long and GO feet 
high. All trestle bridges and trestle 
works on both the Union and Central 
Pacific roads, have all l:)een filled in 
with rock, earth or iron, within the 
last five years. 

Ne"»v Castit* — is a small place of 
aboitt 200 inhabitants, about •l.SO miles 
from Auburn. 

We i^ass on through little valleys. 

Xo. 8 Annex. The lladrone Tree.— This 
peculiar tree can be seen in many parts of Califor- 
nia, particularly on excursions, Nos. 4 and .5. It 
sheds its Ixnk in the fall of the year, much the 
same as other trees their leaves. The tree, after 
shedding its bark, lias a bright salmon color, then 
turns gradually darker, until, at the shedding 
time the following year, the bark is quite dark. 

The IManzanita, -which means in Spanish " lit- 
tle apple,'' a small shrub, also sheds its bark. It 
is found along the toot-hill ranges of California. 
The root is very tough, fine gi-ained and polishes 
very beautifully. Many fine boxes, and handles 
for canes, umbrellas and parasols are made from 
the root of the IManzanita. 

In TTtah a man is rated according to the num- 
ber of wives be has, thus : A man with two wives 
is a "2-)>ly" Mormon ; one with three, a "3-ply." 
Each wife adds a "ply." 

"Virtue and honor are very nice for Sunday ■wear, 
but too rare for every day use. 



and among low hills, with evidences of 
past and a little present m'ning. 

OlF to tlie right are the old-time mhiing 
camjis of Opliir, Virginia City, Gold Hill, 
aud several others, where yet considerable 
placer mining is indulged in by tlie old 
settlers who are good for nothing else. 

There arc several stone quarries ne^r the 
station, where a very good article ot granite 
is procured. 

Just after leaving Newcastle, we catch 
the first ghmpse of the beautitul valley of 
the Sacramento, from the windows on the 
right-liand side of the cars. There has 
been several points above, where the val- 
ley could be s en for a moment, but very 
indistinclly. Passing on by several valu- 
ab'e stone quarries, for G.06 miles, Ave 
come to 

l*in© — "We are rapidly descending, but 
among the low hil's, covered with chap- 
arral, manzanita and grea^^e-wood, the 
road winds onward for 3.04 miles further, 
passing several valuable quarries, to the 
riglit and left, when Ave arrive at 

Rocklin — Here tlie company haA^e a 
machine shop and round-house of 28 stalls, 
built in the most substantial manner, of 
granite obtained nearby. The ce ebrated 
Kocklin Granite Quarries are close to the 
station, on the left-hand side of the-road. 
The granite obtained here is of excellent 
quality, and does not stain on exposure to 
tlie Aveatlier. The stone for the State Cap- 
itol aud formally of the best buildings in 
San Francisco was quarried here. 

Leaving Rocklin and the foot-hills — the 
country now opening out into the plains, 
or the valley bordering the American River 
— we haA^e no more hills to encounter; yet 
the country is somcAvhat uneven, and after 
Avinding around, on a reguhu- grade, for 
3.91 miles further, Ave reach the 

J miction — Roseville Junction — Tliis 
place is 18.24 miles Irom Sacramento. 
Here are several stores, a hotel, aud one of 
the best places on the coast to establish a 
flouring mill. Using the wheat that is 
raised near, and finding a ready market in 
the mines to the east, Avould have a decided 
advantage in point of location and freights 
over any other mill on the coast. At this 
junction branches off the Oregon division 
of the Central Pacific, north for Marysville 
and Oregon. The road is completed to 
Redding, 169 miles, and passengers 
can change cars here if they choose, or go 
on to Sacramento, as the trains for the Ore- 
gon division are made up at that city, and 



CllOFUTT S XEAV OVERLAN]) TOUKIST 



1G5 



start on the arrival of the morning train 
Irom San Francisco, about 8 p. m. We 
shall take a run over this division, t-tarting 
from Sacramento. (See jiage 166) See 
also map on page 120, and description 
of depot buildings, page 173. 

Antelope — is 3.9 miles west. The 
country is more level, and dotted here and 
there with varieties of oaks. Passenger 
trains do not stop, hut pass on, and 6.43 
miles further come to 

Al'catle — a mer,p side-tratk, 
Koliing down 4.56 miles from Arcade, 
the train slowly crosses a long stretch of 
elevated road, and then on to the Ameri- 
can lliver Bridge, o.^MJ niles east of Sacra- 
mento — whicli spans the main stream of 
the American River — and pass along by 
the orchards and gardens which frim^e the 
suljurbs of the capitol of California, the 
dome of whicli can be seen on the left, also 
the State Agricultural Fair Grounds. The 
long line <}f machine shops belonging to 
the Railroad Company, on the left, arc 
passed, and then we come to the Sacra- 
mento River, on the right, with its crowded 
whaives, and stop at the city of 

JSjicraiueiito — ^ Until the spring of 
1870, this was tiie western terminus of the 
Grand Trans-Continental railroad. But 
vipon the completion of the "Western Pa- 
cific, from Sacramento to San Francisco, 
the two roads were consolidated under the 
name of the Central Pacific railroad of 
California, makingone unbroken line from 
San Francisco to Ogden, Soo miles long. 
The distance from Sacramento to Omaha 
IS 1,776.18 miles; Stockton, 50 miles; 
San Francisco via Livermore, 13S miles ; 
via Benicie 89 miles; \'ailejo, 60 miles; 
Marysville, 52 miles. 

The city is situated on tne east bank of 
the Sacramento River, south of the Ameri- 
can, wJiich unites with the Sacramento at 
this point. It i mostly built of brick ; the 
streets are broad, well-paved, and bordered 
with shade trees throughout a large por- 
tion of tlie city. It contains numerous 
elegant public and private buildings, in- 
cludingthe State Capitol and county Iniild- 
iugs. Population, 33,000. Churches, of 
all denominations, are numerous, as well as 
public and priva;e schools. There are two 
orphan asylums; one Catholic, l)y the Sis- 
ters of St. Joseph, and tlie other J'rotestant. 
Secret orders are well represented, and 
newspapers are also plentiful, chief of 
which are the Jtcrord Union and the Bee, 
both daily ; the Journal — German — ii a 



tri-weekly ; the Leader, the Agriculturalist 
and the Rescue, weeklies. The city is 
lighted with gas and supplied with water 
by two huge pumps in a building just 
north of the depot — with a capacity of 
90,000 gallons per hour. 

Hotels are numerous, but the principal 
ones are the Eagle, Arcade, Orleans and 
Western. Free '"Buses" convey passen- 
gers from the depot to any of them, or, 
they can ride past them all on the street 
cars. In or near the city are located 
four flouring mills, six iron works, two 
potteries, smelting works, distilleries, 
plow works, planingmills, and many other 
small factories. The Capital Woolen Mills 
are located here, and consist of main build- 
ing, 216 by 60 feet, with extention 40 by 60 
ft.; total number of spindles, 1,440; employ 
about 65 hands, and use 1,000 lbs. of wool 
daily. 

The Johnson & Brady \\ iiie Co. work 
up 400 tons ot grapes annually. The Sac- 
ramento Beet Sugar Factory is near the 
city — capacity, from 80 to 100 tons per day; 
main building, 150 by 63 feet. The fac- 
tory grounds produce about 70v) tons of beets 
annually. The company employ, when 
making sugar, 200 whites and oOO Cliinese. 

The princijnil machine shops of tlic 
Central Pacific railroad are situated, as we 
have seen, on the north side of the city, and 
with the tracks, j-ards, etc., cover about 30 
acres. The buildings first erected are of 
wood, still standing and in use. The new 
buildings are of brick, comprising a ma- 
chine, car, paint and blacksmith shops, 
round-house, and several otlier buildings. 
Nearly all the cars used by the company 
are manufactured here. It is a noted fact 
that the cars on both C. P. and U. P. R. R., 
are far superior in size, style and finish to 
those on the majority of the Eastern roads, 
and for strength and completeness of 
the arrangements lor comfort in riding, 
they have no superior on any road. 

The hospital belonging to the Railroad 
Co., a large, aiiy and comfortable build- 
ing, is located near the shops, where their 
men are taken care of when sick or dis- 
abled It isAvell conducted, a credit to 
the compan3% and of iuca'culable benefit to 
those unfortunates who are obliged to seek 
its shelter. 

As for the mercantile business, let a few 
"figures talk": 

During the year 1881 the aggregate 
sales of all kinds of merchandise and 
manufactured wares, exclusive of local in- 



1G(J 



I'ACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



terciiange, amount'd to the sura of 
$20,000 000. Tliis liixure rppiesents the 
agerregate volume oC outside trade. 

The city is laid out in a regular square, 
the streets runniog at right angles fronting 
on the Sacramento River, which here runs 
nearly north and south. They are num- 
bered from the river, 1, 2, 3, etc. Those 
running from the river bank, or east and 
west, are numbered with the alphabet, A, 
B, C, etc. 

There is a quiet Ix'uuty, peculiar to this 
city alone, which renders it attractive to the 
most careless of ti'avelers. Its well shaded 
strees; its beautiful gardens, blooming 
Avith an almost tropical luxuriance; its 
vineyards and orchards, all combine to 
form a city such as one rarely meets with 
in California, and nowhere else. 

Sacramento is endeared to Californians — 
not by reason other | .resent heau'y and pros- 
perity', but because she is truly an American 
cit}^ whose people, by their indomitable 
energy and perseverance, have raised 
this monument to our national character, 
despite the ravages of lire and flood. Not 
only have they re-built their city, but they 
have built the ground on which it stands, 
and to-day the ci y stands some ten feet 
above the original site on which Sac- 
ramento was first established. 

From the small and unimportant hamlet 
of a few years ago, it has emerged into a 
thriving, bustling city. Fires burned the 
young city to the ground, but it rose — 
Plioenix like— more beautiful than ever. 
The floods swept over it, as with a besom 
of destruction, in the winters of '51 and 
'53, and the waters were rushing witli 
irresistible force through every street. 
"When tliey ab ited, the people went to work 
and built levees around their city, and 
fancied the uselves secure. Again with 
the floods, in the winter of '61 and '(i2, 
Sacriuuento was inundated. To guard 
against a recurrence of these evils, the 
city bed was raised above the hi'rhest 
known tide, and instead of v\ earing ;uvay a 
levee, the angry waters find a solid mass of 
e irth, on which stands the city, against 
which their eflbrts at destruction are futile. 
To one who has not resided on this coast, 
it may at first seem strange that a city 
should have been located in the midst of 
such dangers. When Saci'amento was laid 
out, both the Sacramento and American 
rivers had bold banks above the reach of 
any floods. But when the thousands of 
miners commenced tearing down the 



mountains and pouring the debris into the 
rivers, the sediment gradually filled up the 
riverbed from twelve to eighteen feet above 
its former level. Consequently, wiien the 
spring sun unlocked the va?t volume of 
water confined in the mountain sncjws, 
and sent it foaming and see'hing in its 
mad power to the plains, the old and half- 
filled channel could not contain it, and a 
large body of country was annually in- 
undated. Levees were tried in vain; the 
mighty torrent would not be confined; 
hence the necessity of raising the city 
above its ravages. This has been ac- 
complished; and beyond the present line 
of high grade, a powerful levee surrounds 
the unfilled portion of the city, on which 
is a railroad track, forming an iron circle or 
band, which no past floods have had power 
to break. These levees are guarded and 
kept in repair by the Railrojnl Company. 
TuE Statk Capitol — For a description 
see Annex No. 15, page 173. 



We will now tuke a run over the 
Oregon Division. 

CENTRAL PACIFIC RAILROAD. 

For time of passenger train leaving 
Sacramento see schedules. 

The trains run o\'er the Overland track 
of the "Central " to Roseville Junction, pass- 
ing all stations — except where signaled — 
until the Junction is reached. 

Our road branches off to the left just 
before the station is reached, and stojis 
close on the north side of the building, 
and we hear — "All aboard for Marysville, 
Chico and Oregon." We suppose the 
time is not far distant (in the age of 
nations) when passengers will hear, on ar- 
riving at this station: "All aboard for 
Puget Sound, Hudson Bay, Alaska and 
Beiiring Straits; close connections made 
with the Yankee Tunnel Gompdhy, under 
Behring Straiis for all points in Russia, 
China, Japan, Germany, England, France, 
and the Holy Land!" 

Leaving the Junction, our course is 
north; we are whirled along over a fine 
road-bed, in and out among the foot-hills, 
with rapid and ever changing scenery on 
either hand, through groves of huge old 
oaks, with large herds of sheep grazing 
about them, for six miles to 

Whitney — a signal station in the midst 
of sheep ranches— cross Auburn Ravine, 
and after a run of 4..") miles, come to 

Lincoln, which is a villaue of about 



CROFUTj's NEW OVEULAND TOUKIST 



167 



300 inhabitants. Jvxst above tlic station, 
on tlie right, arc located extensive T\'orks 
loi- maliing sewer pipes, and pottery; 
half a mile further, on the same side, is a 
new coal mine, recently discovered. A 
little further a turkey rauche, and then, a 
real old-fashioned Vermont farm, only 
there is a great unitbrn ity in the size of 
the rocks. 

EwiNG — comes next, a signal station, 
4.1 miles from Lincoln, where we cross 
Coon CreeK and find the land improving, 
for 3.5 miles, when we come to 

SiiERiDAH — This place contains about 
20 buildings, situated on an open plain 
■wtere most of the laud is used for grazing 
purposes. We now cross Bear River, 
which has broad bottoms, much of which 
is covered with sand, and the washings 
from the mines above towards Grass Val- 
ley. Here we get a good view of the 
"Buttes," directly ahead. After passing 
over 2.0 miles from Sheridan, we are at 

Wheatland — a place very properly 
named, as it is situated in one great wheat- 
field, with several fine.buildings. a flouring 
mil., a weekly newspaper — the Recorder — 
and an enterprising population of farmers, 
600 or more. 

Continuing along, through a line country 
2.0 miles, we come to 

1?eed's — a signal station of a half-dozen 
buildings. On we go, throUL'h broad, rich 
bottom-hxnd, many miles in Avidth, 4.7 
miles to 

Yuba — another signal station on tlie 
south bank of the Yuba Eivcr. Here we 
cross a dyke, which extends up and down 
the river, as far as you can sec, thrown up 
to keep the river from overflowing its 
banks, to the damage of the surrounding- 
country. The river bottom there is a mile 
in wiclth, covered with oaks and willows, 
across wliich the road is built on high tres- 
tles. Crossing over, we find another high 
dyke on the opposite side, which we cross, 
and 1.0 miles Irom Yuba signal station, 
stop at the old city of 

Makysville — one of the prettiest towns 
in the State. It is the county seat ot Yuba 
county, situated on the north bank of the 
Yuba River, with a population of about 
5,000. It was first settled in 1849, and 
named in Inmor of the only white woman 
within its limits, Mrs. Mary Covilland. 
The town is built of brick, the sti'eets wide, 
and laid out at right angles. The chief 
beauty of Marysville consists in the shrub- 
bery which ornaments the town, though 



there are many elegant public buildings 
and private residences in the city. Scarcely 
will you find a dwelling that is not sur- 
rounded with a forest of fruit trees, includ- 
ing orange and shade trees, or embowered 
in a mass of vines and flowers. The city 
is on a level plain, tw'elve miles from the 
foot-hill.'^, and protected from the spring 
Hoods of the Yuba by a dyke or high em- 
bankment. The streets are broad and 
regularly laid out. The city supports one 
daily paper — the Appeal — has several good 
hotels, chief of whicli are the United States 
and \Vesteru. There are two seminaries, 
four public, and numerous private schools ; 
also live churches, nearly all denominations 
being represented. The city is lighted 
with gas, and sujiplied with water from an 
artesian Avell 300 feet deep, from which it 
is elevated by steam power to a reservoii-, 
and thence conducted all over the city. Il 
has quite a number of manufactories, in- 
cluding an iron foumlry and machine 
shop, where are maufactured all kinds of 
mill machinery, stationary engines, &;c. 
Agriculture is now the principal S(nirce of 
wealth of the country. Fruit culture aad 
stock-raisii g are very remunerative. 

Saw-mills ;.re numerous in the county, 
as immense quantities of lumber are ship- 
ped from Marysville. The greater portion 
of the mining is now done by the hydraulic 
process. There are 15 quartz mills in the 
county, and 30 companies owning. canals 
or mining ditches, one of which cost 
$500,000, and with its branches is over 150 
mile i long. 

Tliere are regular stage lines from Marys- 
ville to Colusa, 29 miles Avest; Downieville, 
G7 miles northeast; North San Juan, 38 
miles ; Grass Valley, 35 miles : La Porte, 65 
miles from Marysville. 

The California iVortlier?i II. 15. 

This road brancnesott for Oroville, north, 
and runs to the eastAvard of Feather Riv^er, 
through Houcut, a small place, and arrives 
at ( ) roville,after a run of 26 mi les. This town 
has a population of about 1,500, and is the 
county seat of Butte county. It is an old 
mining town, principally placer mines, 
Avhich were at one tme A'ery rich, and in 
some places noAV are Avorlced to advantage. 
The Chinese are very thick in the old pla- 
cer region, and Avork these old diggings 
over and over again. The town is em- 
bowered in fruit and shade tr:es, beautiful 
gardens and orchards. 

This county possesses some of the finest 



IfiS 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 




BLOOMER CUT. 



S5 feet deepaud SOO 

agricultural land in the State. All kinds 
of grain and produce are raised in abund- 
ance. The vineyards are numerous, pro- 
ducing large quantities of wine and brandy 
annually. Rasins are ]iroduced in large 
quantities, and an immense amount of pea- 
nuts are gathered for market every year 
Stock-raising is also an important featurt. 
"Wool is a staple export of the county. 
Schools and churches are in a Hour shing 
condition — a sure evidence of a people's 
l)rosperity. Stages leave Oroville regularly 
for La Porte, .2 miles; Susanvi'le, 105 
miles; as well as to most of the adjoining 
towns. 

Returning to Mar3.sville, we will ]iow 
take a run to 

Yuba City — situated about one mil • 
west of JNIarysville, containing a population 
of about ] ,000, and located on the eastern 
bank of the Feather River, just above its 
junction with the Yuba. It is the county 
seat of Sutter counly— first settled in 18-10. 
The county was named alter General Sut- 



et long. See page 104, 

ter, the old pioneer, at whose mill race at 
Coloma, El Dorailo count}', on the south 
fork of ilie Aim riran River, January 19th, 
1848, the first gold was discovered in Cali- 
fornia. The county has a population of 
about 6,000, mostly engaged in agriculture. 
Tbe soil is very fertile, and produces large 
crops of wheat, oats, and barley; there are 
also some very fine vineyards, producing a 
superior quality of fruit, from which many 
thousand gallons of Avine and brandy are 
made annually. 

The city has one newspaper — the Sutter 
Biniri'r—and several hotels. It is at the 
head of steandjoat navigation, and is con- 
nected with San Francisco and the world 
by the road over wiiich we canii' — the 
Oregon division of the C. P., via. jMarys- 
ville, between which cities a hack runs 
regularly. 

The '• BuTTES " — called the "Maiysville 
Buttes," are a noted land-mark to the 
Avestward, about ten miles. They consist 
of a 5 cries of peaks that rise from the 



CUOFUTT S KE^V OVERLAXD TOURIST 



16<J 



crest of an isolated mountaia range, which 
stands bold and clear among the plains, 
1,000 feet in height. From appearances, 
one would be led to suppose that this 
ridge crossed the valley at one time, when 
this was an inland sea; and when the 
waters escaped from the lower valley, 
those confined aba\'e cut a portion of the 
ridge down level Avith the plain, and 
escaping, left a beautiful valley above. 

From the summits of iheir bald peaks a 
fine view can be had of a great portion of 
the Sacramento Valley, including Mount 
Shasta, a^-ay to the nortiward, 220 
miles distant, in latitude 41 deg. 30 min., 
an isolated and lofty volcanic mountain, 
full 14,440 feet high. It is covered wiih 
perpetual snow, and is the head and source 
of llie Sacramento Eiver. (See Annex 
No. 43, page 214. To the northwest, in 
the Coast Range, can be distinctly 
seen ]Mts. Linn, St. John and Ripley. 
On the south, Mt. Diablo, in the Contra 
Costa range, while on the east, from north 
to south, is the long range of the Sierra 
Nevadas, as lar as the ey.-!can reach. 

Returning to ]\Iar\ sville, we again start 
on our journey. One mile north (4' the 
city we cross the track ( f the Oroville rail- 
road, pa s several cemeteries on the right, 
also a race track ; tin n, bear away to the 
left — northwest — and cross the Feather 
River on a long trestle bridge. Along this 
river, live oivks and sycamore trees abound 
bj the million. 

LoMO — a flag station, comes first from 
Marysville, G.8 miles. Here are wheat 
lands which C(jntinue, with an occasional 
clump of trees, 'S.9 miles, to 

Live Oak— auo her side track, in the 
centre of some thousands of acres of young 
live oaks, anil manzanita shrubs. Passing 
along with the broad valley of the Sacra- 
mento on the left, which ttretches away as 
far as the eye can reach, and the Feather 
River Valle^ on the rii;iit, beyond which are 
tlie lofty Sierras, we reach 

Gridley — which is 6.5 miles further 
north. This station has several hotels and 
stores, a dozen residences, and a large grain 
warehouse, and one flouring mill, as, be it 
remember, d, we are now in one of the 
great wlieat sections of the State. The 
station was named for a Mr. Gridley — 
maybe it's "Old Bob Gridley" — Avho 
knows? — who owns somewhere about 
35,000 acres of land adjoining the station, 
much of whicii he has worked bv farmers 
on a division of crops. Live oaks, big ones 



are numerous all the way for 3.4 miles to 

Biggs — This is a lively town of about 
1,200 population, in the midst of fine wheat 
lands, with extensive warehouses fur stor- 
ing and handling Avheat in nearly all 
seasons. This cereal is a large and sure 
crop. Biggs has a week y paper— the 
Hegtster— never a\ hotels, chief of wiiicli is 
tlie Planters, and a stage line to Orovtlle, 
twelve miles east; fare, $1.00. 

The place was named for a Mr. Biggs, 
who, like the Mr. Gridley, is troubled with 
about 30,000 acres of this wheat land, much 
of which yields, when properly farmed, 
50 bushel J to the acre. Leaving Biggs we 
cross the big canal of the Cherokee Com- 
pany, which is 18 miles long and 40() 
feet wide; the water ii used for hydraulic 
mining, and then for irrigating purposes. 

After a run of ten miles, all the way 
through w eat fields, we reach 

Nels in — composed of about a dozen 
buildings, surrounded with wheat, wheat, 
all M'heat These fields extend far away 
in every direction. 

Passing along, Ave cross Butte Creek, 
and G.6 miles from Nelson, come to 

DuNiiAJi — Here is about a dozen build- 
ings, in the midst of a broad plain studded 
Avitli occasional oaks. A flouring mill and 
large Avarehouses are near the station. 
Continuing (m 6.1 miles, and A\'e stop at 
the beautiful town of 

Ciiico — It is 43milesfrom Marysville, 25 
miles nortliAvest from Orovi le, and five 
miles east of the Sacramento River, situated 
in the Chico Valley, Butte county, in the 
midst of as rich a farming section as the 
Stale affords; ])opulation .),000. The city 
is lighted Avilh gas, has ample AA^ater-works 
situated near the depot, and has several 
banks and hotels, chief of Avhich are the 
Chico House and t.!e Union; o.ie daily pa- 
per, the Mecoi'd, and one weekly, the £Jn- 
terprise. To the eastward looms up the 
Sierra Nevada Mountains, covered Avith a 
dense forest of timber, in Avhicli are many 
sawmills, the lumber from Avhich is floated 
down to Avithin three miles of the city, in 
a " V " flume, 35 miles in length. The 
streets are lined Aviih shade trees, groves of 
oaks, and orchards and gardens are on 
every hand. Near tlie town. General Bid- 
well, the old pioneer, has an extensive 
ranche — or farm, as it Avould be called in 
the Eastern States — AV'hich is in a A'ery 
high state of cultivation, producing abun- 
dantly all kinds t)f fruits and ])lants of 
the temperate and semi-tropical climes. 



170 



I'ACIFIC COAST GUIJJi:. 



Stage routes IVoiu Chico are uuuierous. 
Six-liorse coaches, iu summer, lea\e for 
Oroville, 25 miles; Butteville, Plumas 
Co., 63 miles; fare, 10 cents per mile. 
Stages leave for Diamoudvillc, eleven 
miles; Butte Creek, 13 miles; and Hell- 
town, 1-1 miles ; also, for Dayton, six miles ; 
Jacinto, 14 miles; Germantown, Di miles; 
Willows, ~)6 miles; Colusa, 40 miles; Wil- 
liams, 49 miles ; Allen, 55 miles ; and Bart- 
lette Springs, 58 mi'es. Stages run Mon- 
daj's, Wednesdays and Fridays, to St. John, 
ten miles; Orland, 23 miles; O.impo, 30 
miles; Coast Range, 35 miles; Newville, 
40 miles. The average fare to all these 
places is ten cents per mile. 

Leaving Chico, our course is more west- 
ward for seven miles to 

NoBD — a small station about three^miles 
east of tlie Sacramento River. Next comes 
a side-track, 2.3 miles further, called 
Anita — and 2.4 miles further 
Caxa — This place has a population of 
about 100, most of whom arc farmers, as 
wlieat fields are still the rule. On, 2.8 
miles further comes 

Soto — near Deer Creek, and 4.3 miles 
from 

Vina — a small station near tlie Sacra- 
mento River, in the center of a veiy fertile 
region and a great point for grain ship- 
ments. 

Continuing on 7.5 miles further, crossing 
several small creeks, passing some oaks and 
willow* along the creeks, we come to 

Sesma — a !>ide-track, on the east bank uf 
Sacramento River, which we cross, and 
stop at 

Tehama — on the west bank of Sacra- 
mento River, where boats often land, being 
a thriving town of about 700 population. 
The Tocsin heralds the news daily in clar- 
ion tones, that all may learn that Tehama 
has a live daily uevvspaper. The place 
was, in early days, known as " Hall Cross- 
ing." Agriculture is the principal feature 
of the place, although the lumber business 
is an important item A "V " flume brings 
thelumberdownfrom the mills intheSierras 
on the northeast, a distance of forty miles, 
with a capacity of 40,000 feet per day. The 
country is very fertile. Live oaks are 
numerous. 

Lassen's Peak, to the northeast, is a prom- 
inent feature of the landscape, as it rises 
10,578 feet above sea level, which Avould be 
about 10,000 feet higher than Tehama. 
Com inning along 12.1 miles furtlier, cross- 
ing several small creeks, we come to 



Red Bluffs — the county seat of Tehama 
county, at the head of navigation on the 
Sacramento River, with a population of 
about 2,000. It is situated in the midst of 
rich agricultural and grazing land, with 
many tlxriviug vineyards and several hotels, 
chief of which arc the Tremont and Red 
Blufis Hotel: also two weekly newspapers, 
the Sentinel and the People's Cause. Lum- 
ber is an important indubtry, and the man- 
ufacture of doors, sash and blinds is carried 
on to a great extent. Mt. Shasta, to the 
north, is a prominent object, rising up out 
of the valley. 

Continuing along, crossing several little 
creeks, bearing away more to the westward, 
10.3 miles, we come to 

Hooker — a signal station, 4.9 miles 
from 

BiCKEYE — another signal station, lo- 
cated 1.8 miles from 

Cottonwood — This is a small village in 
Shasta county, of about 300 population, 
situated on Cottonwood Creek, about five 
miles west of the Sacramento River. 

Turning more to the northeast, a short 
run of 7.6 miles brings us to 

Andekson's — a village of about LOO i)op- 
ulation, 0.3 miles from 

Cle.vr Creek — a small station on a 
creek of that name, which comes la from 
the west, and after 4.8 miles further, we 
come to the end of the road at 

Redding — ^This place v/as named for the 
land commissioner of the railroad com- 
pany. This is the terminus of the road, 
having a population of about 500. 

Redding is 308 miles north of San Fran- 
cisco, 2 . 5 miles south of Roseburg, Oregon, 
and 475 miles from Portland. 

Stages leave Redding daily, with passen- 
ger, mails and express, for Roseburg, and 
all intermediate places, distance 275 miles. 
At Roseburg connections are made with 
Hie Oreiion & California railroad, for Port- 
land, 200 miles further. Fare to Roseburg 
from Redding, $41.25. 

This region is fertile in subject matter 
lor our book, but w^e arelimited as to space, 
and with this hasty glance at the most im- 
portant features of the country, now re- 
turn to the city of Sacramento, and again 
start out on another route. 



Ul> the Saeraiuemto River- 
Stepping on board a light draft steam- 

boat, "at the wharf in Sacramento, we are 

off for a trip by water. 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURTST 



171 



About the first thing to attract the atten- 
tion of the traveler after leaving the city, 
will be the 

" TuiLES," which is the native name 
given to tlie rushes which cover the low 
lands and bays of California. They are of 
the bulrush tamil3', probably the father of 
all rushes. They grow from six to t^n 
feet high, and so thick on the ground that 
it is extremely difficult to pass among 
them. The binds ou which they grow are 
subject to annual overflows. During the 
prevalence of the floods, miles and miles of 
these lands are under water, presenting the 
appearance of one vast lake or inland sea. 
In the fall an I early winter, Avhen the 
tuik'S are dry, they are often set on fire, 
forming a grand and terrible spectacle, es- 
pecially during the night. When once the 
fire attains headway, nothing can quench 
its fury until the tuiles are swept away to 
the bai)k of some water-course, which bars 
its further progress. 

The soil composing the land is adobe, of 
a purely vegetable mold. Wherever it 
has been reclaimed, it produces grain and 
vegetables in almost fabulous quantities. 

It is claimed by many, that, with proper 
appliances, these lands could be converted 
into magnificent rice fields; the advocates 
of this measure asserting that they possess 
every requisite of soil, clime, "and adapta- 
bility to irrigation. The State has pro- 
vided for a system of levees, hy which a 
large amount of land, heretofore known as 
tuile land, has been successfully reclaimed, 
and is now counted the most valuable in 
the State. 

The country, after leaving Sacramento, 
is level for a vast distance on either hand ; 
the " tuiles " are disappearing, and, before 
we reach Knight's Landing, Ihe left-hand 
shore is more bold, and the wheat-fields 
and gardens have taken the place of "tulles" 
along the river bank. 

We have already been to ^larysville by 
railroad, now let us go via Feather River, 
a l)eautiful stream, its clear watei's contrast- 
ing advantageously with the muddy waters 
of the river we have left. AVe pass through 
a fine countiy with wheat farms on the 
higher lauds, and reach Nicholas, a dull, 
quiet town of about 300 inhabitants, situa- 
ted at the junction of Bear River with the 
Feather. Proceeding up the Feather, we 
pass HOCK FARM, the home of the venerable 
pioneer of California, General Sutter. It 
is a jovely place — the old farm-house and 
iron fort standing on the bank of the 



stream. Enormous fig trees line the bank^ 
while b'lhind them can be seen the fine 
orchards and vineyards planted by the 
General over 50 years ago. General 
Sutter settled in California under a grant 
from the Russian Government, which con- 
veyed to him large tracts of land around 
Sacramento City, including the city site; 
also a large tract, of which Hock Farm is- 
a part. Sharpers and swindlers deprived 
the old pioneer of most of his property, 
leaving him i)enuiless, and a pensioner on 
the State. 

Passing on by the junction of the Yuba, 
and Feather riveis, w-e soon reach Yuba 
near Marysville, 6) miles from Sacramento, 
by water. (See description on page 167)- 
Returning to the Sacramento, the riglit- 
hand bank of the river appears low ai»d 
swampy, covered with "tuiles " for a great 
distance inland. Passing on, we soon ar- 
rive at 

Knight's Landing — a small place — 4& 
miles from Saciamento. Population about 
200. It is quite a shipping i)oint for Yolo 
county, and is on the line of the California 
Pacific railroad. This road, in 1873-4, ex- 
tended to Marysville, crossing the i^iver at 
this i>oint, but the floods washed away the 
road-bed on the east side of the river. The 
road passed into the hands of the " Central" 
Company, who had a road to Marysville 
via the Roseville Junction. So it never was 
repaiicd, but the bridge turned to allow a. 
free passage of the river boats, and has 
been so, for the last four years, and probably 
will so remain until it rots down. 

For a long distance above Knight's 
Landing, the low marshy plains continue 
on our right, the higher land covered with 
wheat on our left, with no towns of any 
importance to note until we arrive at 

Colusa — This is a point of considerable- 
trade — 125 miles from Sacramento. It la- 
the county seat of Colusa county, situated 
on the west bank of the Sacramento River, 
and contains about 1 ,500 inhabitants. The 
Colusa tiun is publi-hed here. 

The town was laid out in 1850, by Col- 
onel Semple, the owner of the "Colusa 
Grant" — containing two Spanish leagues. 
It is now the center of a very large farming 
and grazing country. Schools and churches- 
are well represented. Stages run daily be- 
tween Colusa and Marysville — 29 miles;, 
also to Williams, nine miles west. 

Passing' on up the river, the country 
seems to gradually change to a grazing,. 



172 



rACIFIC COAST GUIDK. 



instead of a grain couutry, more especially 
on the "west. 

About 200 miles further and we reach the 
Landing of Chico — but we have already 
•described the^town on page ISG, so we will 
pass on. On the right-hand side, the shores 
are low and sedgy most of the way, fit only 
for grazing when the floods have subsided; 
yet we pass intervals of grain fields till we 
arrive at Red Blufls— 270 miles from Sac- 
ramento, at the head of navigation. See 
description of the town on page 170. 

We will now return to the city of .Sac- 
ramento, and there take another route. 

I>OYVii the Sacramento Kiver. 

Stepping on board of a large passenger 
and freight boat, we start down the river 
towards San Francisco. Tiic plains sti-etch 
atvay on either hand, and there is little to 
be seen except the gardens and farms along 
the banks on the higher ground, the wide 
waste of "tuiles," and the plains and moun- 
tains bejn^nd. On the left — away in the 
dim distance, the hills succeed the plains, 
the mountains the hills, until the vast pile 
towers among the clouds. 

Winding around curves, where the stern 
of the' boat is swept by the willows on the 
shore, we glide down the river, past 
sloughs, creeks, an 1 tuile swamps, until we 
pass Fkeeport, 12 miles from the city, a 
little hamlet of half a dozen dwellings. 

Floating along between the low banks, 
covered m ith Millow and shrul), we pass 
Mississippi Bend — 24 miles from Sac- 
ramento. Here the river makes one of its 
numerous curves, almost doubling back on 
itself 

To the left is the little town of Rich- 
land, containing a half dozen dwellings. 
Now the Nevada Mountains fall behind, 
and we have one vast plain around us. 
We pass the outlet of Sutter's Slough, and 
then the Hog's B:ick — a long sand-bar, 
which stretches diagonally across the 
river. The water here is very shoal. A 
wing chim has been built from the western 
shore, half way across the channel, Avhich 
throws the water into a narrow compass, 
giving greater depth to the bar. Next 
comes Cache Creek Slough, r n Avhich large 
quantities of grain are sliipped to San 
Francisco via Sacramento River, from Yolo 
and Solano counties. Now we are passing 
along by the Rio Vista hills, which come 
■close to the water's edge on the right-hand 
shore. These hills are the first we have seen 
near the river since leaving the city. They 



consist of one long, low ridge, broken into 
hillocks cu its crest. These hills are ex- 
cellent wheat laud, yielding an abundant 
harvest. The land is very valuable, though 
but a few years have passed since it was 
sold for 25 cents per acre. The town of 
Rio Vista is situated on the slope of the 
foot-hills, and contains about 300 in- 
habitants. Formerly the town stood 
on the low ground, near the rivei' bank, 
but the flood of '62 washed it awa}-, car- 
rying Irom 40 to GO houses down the river. 
The people fled to the high lands, where 
they remained until the passing steamers 
took them away. For days the little 
steamer Rescue was plj'iug up and down 
the river, running iar out over the sub- 
merged i^lains, picking up the "stragglers," 
who were surrounded by the waters. Some 
were found on the house-i'oofs, with the 
flood far up the sides of their dwell- 
ings, and others were rescued from the 
branches of trees, which aflbrded them 
the only resting-place above the waters. 
The flood of '62 will long be re- 
membered bj' those "who then dwelt on the 
banks of the Sacramento. 

We next pass Coi.lingsville, a long 
wharf on the right-hand side of the river, 
with a house or two standing close bj'. It 
is a point of shipment of considerable 
freight, for the couutry, and grain for the 
city, A little below this point, the San 
Joaquin River unites with the Sacramento, 
entering from the left, forming Suhvn 
Bay (pronounced Soo-e-soon). 

AxTiocii— just across the bay — is in 
Contra Costa county; population, 500. 
Three miles south, b^^ railroad, arc the 
Mount Diablo coal mines, which yield 
large quantities of coal. 

'fhere are several manufactories of pot- 
tery in the town — the clay in the vicinity 
being a very superior article. The Ledijer, 
a weekly j^aper, is published here. Atten- 
tion has lately been attracted to the silk 
culture, and man}- thousand mulberrj ti'ccs 
ha\e been planted. 

Passing on down the bay, we enl(T ilie 
Straits < f Carquinez, when a long, low 
wharf on the rJL'lit altr:!rts our atiention. 
It is fronting the old town of Benicie, 
of which more hereafter. 

Passing on down the strai'-,s we 
have a fine view of Vallejo, which 
lies to our right, near where we enter 
Sun Pablo Bay. Turning to the left, 23 
miles more brings us to San Francisco, 
lint we must retain to Sarnmi-iito and 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



17» 



Take the old OvopIsjikI Kontc 

Via Stockton aud Liveriiiore Pass. 
Leaving JSacramento, the route is 
along tlic east bank of the Sacramento 
River, througli well-cultivated gar- 
dens, orchards and vineyards 5.7 miles 
to 

JBrigliton. — Here we learn that the 
cars of the Sacramento Valley rail- 
road, managed by the Central Pacific 
Company, run down on the same track 
as the "Central" to this station, where 
they branch off. Let us step into 
them, and see where they go. Patter- 
son'.-j is five miles; Salsbury's six 
mil's; Alder Creek, three miles, and 
three more to 

F.>LS<)M— twenty-five miles eastfrom 
SaM'amento, in Sacramento county, 
on the south bank of the American 
Kiver; population about 2,00o. Vine 
culture is an important industry. 
Some of the finest vineyards in the 



State are located here, including the 
Natoma, which is celebrated for. its 
fine quality of raisins and wine. To 
the north and east of the town placer 
mining is the principal business ; to the 
south and west, farming and grazing. 

There are extensive granite quarries 
in the vicinity. From the bed of the 
river, near this point, large quantities 
of cobble-stones have been obtained, 
for paving the streets of Sacramento 
and San Francisco. 

Folsom is ornamented with fruit and 
shade trees, and has many fine public 
and jtrivate buildings, with magnifi- 
cent scenery. Regular stages leave 
for Coloma, daily, via Mormon Island^ 
Salmon Falls and Greenwood Valley, 
twentv-four miles distant. 



The Indians call the telegraph the "whisiiering 
spirit." 

Emigrants, on the plains, are called, by the 
Qjder settlers, "pilgi'inis." 



afo. l.=i Annex. State Capitol «if Cali- 
fornia. — This is one of the first objects which 
meets the eye when apisroaching Sacramento 
from the east. It is a conspicuous landmai'k. 
The building occupies the center of four blocks, 
bounded by lOth and 12th, and by L and N 
streets. The grounds form thi'ee terraces, slightly 
elevated above each other, and connected by easy 
flights of steps. They are regularly laid out, and 
covered with a beautiful sward, closely shaven 
by the lawn-cu'rter. They are interplanted with 
shrubs and evergreen trees. The outer border of 
the lowest terrace is studded with flowers. Its 
front is toward lOth stieet, and is 350 feet long. 
Approaching it from this point you may regard 
it as a great central building, from which rises 
the lofty dome, and having on each side a large 
"wing. A flight of granite steps, 'J.3 feet high by 
80 feet in width, leads to a front portico of ten 
colunnis, through which, and a large hall, the 
rotunda of 72 feet diameter is found in the cen- 
ter ; and from this, in each story, halls, elegantly 
arched, extend through the front and wings, the 
State offices being on either side. Five female 
figures ornament the front above the columns. 
The central one is standing, the remaining four 
are in sitting postures. They represent war, 
science, agriculture and mining. The wings 
forming the flanks of the building are 164 feet 
above the first or basement story. The north 
and south flanks of the building form, respect- 
ively, the Assembly and Senate chambers, the 
former being S2x72, and the latter 72x()2. In 
the rear center, a circvilar projection of (>0 feet 
diameter forms the State Library. The first 
story of 2~) feet is of white granite, from neigh- 
boring quarries, and is surmounted by a cornice 
of the same. Above this the body of the main 
dome is surrounded liy an open T)alcony, which 
is supported by 24 fluted Corinthian columns 
and an equal number of pilasters. Above this 
balcony the body of the dome is supported by an 
equal number of ornamental pilasters. From 
these rises the great uietflUic dome. Fi'om the 



top of this dome in turn rise 12 fluted Corintliian 
pillars, which support the final or small dome, 
and this is surmounted by the statue of Cali- 
fornia. 

The whole interior is one solid mass of iron 
and masonry. The dome of the interior rotunda, 
which is of iron ornaments and brick work, ia 
e.xceedingly handsome. The panels and pedestals 
under the windows are of the beautiful laurel, 
well known in California for its susceptibility to 
receive a high polish. All the first floor doors- 
I are of walnut, with laurel panels, as are also the 
sashes throughout the building. The stories are, 
respectively, 21 feet (i inches, 20 feet, and 18 
feet in height. It covers, with its angles, nearly 
GO.OOO surface feet of ground, and measures 
over 1 ,200 lineal feet round in all the angles. 
See large illusti'ation, Ko. 10. 

Xo. SH Annex.— Xe'»v Snoianim^o De- 
pot. — From page Itin. — The Central Company 
have compleiied a depot at Sacramento, that is 
the largest, finest and most commodious on the 
Pacific Coast. It is constructed of the best jna- 
terial and in the most substantial manner. It is 
situated about midway between the bridge over 
the Sacramento river and the company's shops, 
fronts north, on grovmd filled in and specially 
prepared for that pui^pose. The main building 
is 41G feet long, and 70 feet 6 inches wide, two 
story. The front has four large arches in the 
center, and eight smaller ones on each side. 
Three tracks run through the building, and a 
platform '^2 feet wide. In the rear is an annex, 
100 feet long, and 35 feet wide, one story, in 
which is a dining-room, 40x5.5 feet, 14 feet liigh, 
two waiting-rooms, 26x35 feet. On the first floor 
are ticket, sleeping-car, and telegraph offices, 
lunch counter and baggage-room, news-room, etc. 
The second story is occuisied by the offices of the 
Sacramento Valley Railroad, Supt. of Division of 
the C. P., Train Dispatchers, Conductors, Eooms 
for Storage, Stationery, etc. 

Sacramento is now a I'egular eating station. 



174 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



fassing on seven miles to White Kecks, 
eiglit to Latrobe, and eleven to Shingle 
Springs, brings us to the end of the rail- 
road, 41) miles from Sacramento. 

Plackuville. — is twelve miles from 
Shingle Springs, with which it is connect- 
ed with daily stages. It is the county 
seat of El Dorado county, 60 miles east of 
Sacramento, at an altitude of 1,880 feet 
above tide — present population, about 
2,000. 

Who has not heard of Placerville, El 
Dorado county ? It was in this county, at 
Colo ma, eight miles northeast of the city, 
where the 

FinsT GOLD DISCOVERY — was made Jan- 
uary, 19th, 1848— by J.W. Marshall, in the 
mill race of General Sutter. The an- 
nouncement of this discovery caused the 
wildest gold fever excitement ever estperi- 
enced not only in America, but in every 
part of the civilized world. 

The news of these rich discoveries sped 
with the wings of the wind, and thousands, 
yes, tens of thousands, in the Atlantic States 
left homes, friends, and all they held dear, 
to make their fortunes in this, the new El 
Dorado. With many the excitement be- 
came intense, ships, steamers, barks, brigs, 
and all manner of sailing vessels were char- 
tered or purchased for a trip "around the 
Horn ;" and no sacrifice was thought to be 
too much to make to procure the necessary 
outfit for the expedition. Again there were 
thousands who, choosing the land, boldly 
struck out toward the setting sun to cross the 
then almost unknown trackless deserts, 
and pathless mountains. Horses, mules 
and cattle were pressed into service, as well 
as all kinds of conveyances, while many 
started with hand-carts, propelling them 
themselves, upon which they packed their 
tools and provisions for tlie trip. Again, 
others started on foot, with only what they 
could pack on their backs, "trusting to 
luck.'' Very few, if any, had a thought of 
the privations to be endured, or the obsta- 
cles to be overcome, so anxious were they 
to arrive at the Land of Gold. 

Those who came by water, passed in ut 
the Golden Gate, and up the Sacramento, 
while those by land came pouring over the 
Sierra Nevada Mountains, by natui'al 
passes, down, down into this beautiful val- 
ley, where a city of many thousands sud- 
denly sprang into existence. From a "lit- 
tle unpleasantness" the place was first 
known as "Hangtown," but in 1852 it was 
Changed to Placerville, which indicated at 



that time, the nature of the mining done 
in the vicinity. Of the many thousands 
who started across the plains and moun- 
tains, hundreds died by the wayside, and 
were buried by their companions, while 
the greater number were "lost" by the 
hand of the friendli/ Indian or the hostile 
Mormon. 

It has been estimated, and we think cor- 
rectly, could the bones of these emigrants 
be collected, and those of their animals, to- 
gether with their wagons and carts, in one 
continuous line, between the Missouri 
river and the Pacific coast, since the rush 
Commenced in 18^8, they would be more 
numerous and closer together than the tele- 
graph poles on the line of the Pacific rail- 
road across the Continent 

The early mining done about Placerville 
was done by hand, the pan, rocker, and 
long Tom; these have long since given 
place to the quartz mills — there are 33 in 
the county — and the hydraulic process, 
by which nearly all the mining is now 
done. 

Vine culture and fruit culture are now 
the most important occupations of the peo- 
ple of the county. Fresh and dried fruits 
are shipped by the hundreds of tons, while 
the annual crop of wine and brandy pro- 
duced is over 300,000 gallons. 

Placei-ville contains a goodly number of 
schools, and churches of almost every de- 
nomination, including a "Joss House." 
The different secret orders are well repre- 
sented, and two newspapers, the Democrat 
and the Republican, make their appearance 
every week. 

Placerville is situated in what is known as 
the FOOT-HILLS as the chain of broken 
land is called, which lies between the 
Sierra Mountains and the plains, extend- 
ing from Fresno county on the south, 
through Tuolumne, Calaveras, Amador, 
El Dorado, Placer, Nevada, Yuba, Butte 
to Tehama, on the north, comprising nearly 
one-fourth of the arable land of the State. 
The soil is altogether different from that of 
thevalleys, being generally of a red, gravelly 
clay and sandy loam. In the little valleys 
which are found among these hills, the soil 
is generally a black loam — the product of 
the mountain washings. Experiments, 
however, have decided the fact that these 
foot-hills are the natural vineyards of Cali- 
fornia. In El Dorado and Placer coun- 
ties, on these sandy footrhills are now the 
finest vineyards in the State, from which are 
manufactured fine wines and raisins. 



ceofutt's new overland tourist 



175 



Hero among these hilTs are as cozy 
homes as one could wish to 
have, where grain, vegetables and all 
kinds of fruit are raised in abundance, 
while thousands of acres are lying vacant 
awaiting the emigrant. 

The mulbery tree and the silkworm are 
cultivated to some extent in the foot-hills, 
and this branch of industry is lately re- 
ceiving considerable attention. 

Again we return to the TRANft-OoNTi- 
NENTAL, which we left at Brighton. 

Florin — is four miles from Brighton. 
The many new buildings the well-cultiva- 
ted fields, the raisin grape vineyards, all 
denote a spirit of progress in the settlers, 
that vvould seem to say, " We have come Tiere 
to stay." 

The traveler has probably noticed several 
windmills along the road, before arriving 
at this station. The California Wind- 
mill is a great instltutinn in its way. It 
seems to have been brought to a greater 
state of perfection on this coast than any- 
where else. From this place we will find 
their numbers to increase until we get to 
the "Windmill City," as Stockton is often 
called, where they can be seen in great 
Oumbers, in every direction. Many tiuus 
the water is pumped into reservoirs built on 
the tops of the houses, resembling a cupola, 
from which pipes take the water to the 
different rooms throughout the house and 
grounds ; the waste water is conducted in- 
to the gardens and fields for irrigating 
gurposes. These mills are numerous in 
an Francisco and throughout the State. 
From Florin it is 6.2 miles to 

Elk Grove — Here, too, many recent 
Improvements are noticeable. In a clear 
day the snow-capped Sierras, on the left 
Can be plainly seen, and away to the south 
60 miles distant. 

Mount Diablo rising clear and grand 
from out the plains, an unerring pilot to 
those who wandered across these once 
trackless plains that now are teeming with 
life and industry. It is situated in the 
Contra Costa range of mountains, and is the 
meridian point in the land surveys of the 
State. Elevation 3,876 feet. The view from 
the summit includes the country and towns 
around San Francisco, San Pablo 
pud Suisun bays, and the valleys of the 
Sacramento and San Joaquin Rivera. It 
is reached by rail or steamboats from 
San Francisco, Stockton or Sacramento. 

The beautiful valley through which thi 
road passes is now spreading out before u? 



\xXL wo begfn to realfze til at nature han 
lone much for this "sunset land." 

llcConnell's — is a small station 8.5 
miles from Elk Grove. Near are large 
fields, where cattle and sheep are fed and 
fattened for market. 

Before reaching the next station, we 
fcross Cosumnes River, which rises in the 
mountains to the northeast The bottom 
lauds are very wide, and covered with 
both white and live oaks, and near the 
stream with willows. The water gets very 
high in the spring-time, and very low in 
the summer. 

Oalt — a station with a few dozen build- 
Ings, large warehouses, big cattle pens, and 
shutes for loading cattle and sheep — is 7.7 
miles from McConnell'a. At this station 
we find the 

Amadore Branch Railroad, 

Let us " change cars," and note the re- 
suit Leaving the station, our course is 
north a short distance, and then northeast 
towards the mountains, over a section of 
country devoted pretty generally to stock- 
raising — sheep principally. 

CioERO — is the first station, 8.8 miles 
distant, a small place of about loO inliabf- 
tants. Passing on 11.7 miles further, we 
are at 

Carbondale — Here are extensive coal 
mines, operated by the lone Coal Co., who 
load on an average fifteen cars per day — 
150 tons. 

At Michigan Bar, eight miles north, 
large quantities of the best pottery are 
manufactured, which finds its market over 
I this road. From Carbondale it is 6.7 
miles to 

loNE — the end of the road, 27.2 miles 
from Gait This place is in Amadore 
county, in a section devoted to mining and 
agriculture. 

The coal mines located here have yielded 
about 200 tons per day during the year 
1878. A new vein of coal, struck towards 
the last of the year 1877, opens up an al- 
most unlimited deposit Placer mining is 
carried on to some extent on Sutter Creek. 

The News, a weekly paper, is published 
at lone, which is also a point from which 
fourteen mining towns, large and small, 
draw their supplies. Some of these are 
reached by stage as follows: Volcano, 
population, 500; West Point, 800; Jack- 
son, San Andreas, Mokelumna Hill, Sot 
ter, Amador, Drytown, Plymouth, and 
Fiddletown. These places are from ten to 



176 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



liflci-u uufos disUuU. From lone it i? 
flfteen miles southt-ast to Molieluniua Hill, 
(pronounced Mokel-m-ne,) count)' seat of 
Calaveras couuly. This is one of the early 
mining towns of the State. Piacer mints 
were worked as early as 1848, and are 
worked to some extent at the present time ; 
but quartz mining and agriculture are the 
principal occupation of the people. It is 
a pretty little town; the streets are orna- 
mented with shade trees on each side, and 
has some beautiful gardens and private 
residences, with good schoolsand churches, 
several good hotels, and one weekly news- 
paper — the Chronicle — the oldest paper in 
the State. Population, 1,200. 

We will now return to Gait, and start 
once more south. 

Acampo — is a small station where 
trains selclom stop, 5.4 miles from Gait, 
and 2.9 miles from 

liOdi — The country along here has 
been settled up very much in the lat four 

?'ears; the fields are pretty generally 
enced and well cultivated, and some fine 
vineyards of the raisin grape can be seen. 
Many new buildings attest the thrift of the 
people. Stages leave this station daily — 
except Sunday — for Mokelumne Hill, 35 
miles east. 

Castle — is six miles from Lodi. Our 
train rolls along through fine broad bottom 
lands, dotted here and there with white- 
oak trees, which, at a distance, appear like 
an old New England apple-tree. 

Six miles further, just before reaching 
the next station — on the right, that large 
building is the State Insane Asylum. 
The grounds devoted to the use of the 
asylum occupy 100 acres. The first build- 
ing in view is the male department; the 
second, the female. We are now in the 
Bubuibs of 

$!(tOCkton — the county seat of San 
Joaquin county. Population, 13,000. Ele- 
vation, 23 feet. The city was named in 
honor of the old naval commodore of that 
name, who engaged in the conquest of 
California. It is situated on a small bay, 
of the San Joaquin River, at the head of 
navigation ; navigable for crafts of 200 
tons; yet steamboats of light draft ascend 
the river (San Joaquin) 150 miles farther. 
Stockton is situated in the midst of level 
plains, celebrated for their great yield ot 
grain. It is the center of an immense 
grain trade. In early times, the only trade 
depended upon for the support of tin 
city was derived di.-ectly from the work 



ing or the mines to the eastward". Some 
of this trade is still retained; but, com- 
pared with the tremendous grain trade 
which has sprung into existence within 
ihe last six years, it sinks to a unit. The 
city has manj^ beautiful public and private 
buildings, thirteen churches, fourteen pub- 
lic and many private schools; is lighted 
with gas, and well supplied with water, 
the latter from an artesian well 1,002 feet 
deep, which discharges 360,000 gallons per 
day — the water rising ten feet above the 
city grade. There are several good hotels; 
the Yo-Semite and Grand are the prin- 
cipal ones. The Independent and the 
Herald are daily papeis, published here. 
The city is embowered in trees and shrub- 
bery: most of the private residences and 
gardens of the citizens are certainly very 
tastefully ornamented with all kinds of 
vines, shrubbery, and flowers. 

The soil around Stockton is " adone," a 
vegetable mold, black and very slippery, 
and soft during the rainy season. Tliis 
extends southward to the Contra Costas, 
and west about five miles, where the 
sand commences and extends to the river. 
Stockton, for several years after the com- 
pletion of the Overland road, was the 
starting point — in stages— for Yo Semite 
Valley and all the big trees. But, by 
the building of the Visalia Division of 
the "Central," most, if not all, the travel for 
Yo Semite, Mariposa and the Tuolumna 
big tree groves, has taken that route, the 
distance by stage being much shorter. 
(See map of route, page 120.) Apfain.by 
the building of the Stockton & Visalia, 
and Stockton & Copperopoli.s rail- 
roads, all tlie travel for the Calaveras 
Big Tree Grove, goes by that route. 
(Seema]i.) For a description of the 
route to Yo-Semite Valley and theMa- 
riposa and Tuolumna big trees, see 
under "Towards Sunrise," page 209. 

To C.\L,A.VER.A.s Big Trees— wo will 
simply note the route. Take S. & C. E. 
II.— a branch of the Central Pacilic— at 
the same depot, and the route is east, 
six miles to Charleston, three to Walt- 
hall, two to Holden and four more to 
Peters, 15 miles from Stockton. From 
Peters, a line branches off to the 
south-east. On that branch, it is five 
miles to Farmington, three to Grigo, 
five to Clyde, four to Burnetfs and 
two more to Oak Dale, the end of the 
road, 34.4 miles from Stockton. 
Eeturning to Peters, it is 7 miles to 



i'ACinC COAST GUIDE. 



177 




H\I-.R.M()KE I'ASb rLN>.KL 



Waverly and eight more to Milton, the end 
of the road, 30 miles, from Stockton. Some 
travel leaves Milton for Yo Semite Valley, 
Chinese Camp, Big Oak Flat and the Tuo- 
lumne Big Trees ; distance from Milton, 87 
miles. 

Stages leave IMilton regularly for Mur- 
phys, 30 miles; Sonora, 36 miles; Chinese 
Camp, 28 miles and all mining towns of 
note to the north and east. From Milton 
it is 45 miles to the Calaveras Big Tree 
Grove, via i\Iurphys. 

Big Trees— Tliere has been, up to the 
present time, ten " Big Tree Groves " dis- 
covered on the -western slope of the Sierra 
Nevada Mountains, numbering Irom 92 to 
1,000 trees each, and ranging in height 
from 250 to 321 feet, with a circumference, 
at the ground, of Irom 60 to 95 feet each. 

The largest ever discovered is called the 
"Father of the Forest" — now prostrate— 
and _ measures 435 feet in length and 110 
feet in circumference. It is in the Calaveras 

12 



See p.ige 17'.) 

grove. The elevation of this grove above 
tide is 4,735 feet The trees number 93, 
ranging from 150 to 321 feet in height 
The most notable are the " Father of the 
Forest," as above stated ; the " Mother of 
the Forest," 321 feet high, 90 feet in circum- 
ference; " Hercules," 320 feet high, 95 feet 
in circumference ; " Hermit," 318 feet high, 
60 feet in circumference ; " Pride of the 
Forest," 276 feet high, 60 feet in circum- 
fereuce ; " Three Graces," 295 feet high, 93 
feet in circumference; " Husband «& Wife," 
253 feet high, 60 Uet in circumference; 
" Burnt Tree "—prostrate— 330 feet long, 97 
feet in circumference; "The Old Maid," 
"Old Bachelor," " Siamese Twins," "Mother 
& Sons," the " Two Guardsmen," and many 
others range from 261 to 300 feet in height 
and from 59 to 92 feet in circumference. 
Of over 350 big trees in the Mariposa 
grove, 125 are from 250 to 350 feet in height 
and 40 feet in circumference. The "Ram- 
bler" is 250 feet high, and 102 feet in cir- 
cumference, at the ground. 



17h 



r.VClFlO COAST GUIDE. 



Hotel accommodations at the different 
groves, and in Yo Semite Valley will be 
found ample. Returning to Stoi klon, we 
once more take the Overland train lor San 
Francisco. This is a great country lor 
rapid changes. Where to-day there are 
only stages, to-morrow there may be palace 
cars ; so that it is almost impos.sible for u^ 
to keep up with the times. When our 
guide was first published, in 18G9, not one 
foot of all the roads we have come over, 
from the Missouri to this place, or will gi- 
over, or that are, was built or hardly 
thought of. IIow fast we live! At the 
same' proportional increase for the next 
ten years, where will we be? \ 

Liathrop— is 8.9 miles south of Stock- 
ton, at tne junction of the "Visalia Di- 
vi.-iion" of the Central Pacific railroad.' 
Here the R R. Co. have erected a fine, large 
hotel, before which trains stop 30 minutes, 
to afford passengers an opportunity to take 
a meal, for which the moderate charge of 
60 cents is made. (For a description of the 
country to the south, including Yo Semite 
Valley and the big trees of ]\Iariposa and 
Tiiolumna groves, See page 211.) Here 
passengers for Fort Yuma, Los Angeie j 
and intermediate country can "change 
cars," if they choose, without going to Sun 
Francisco. 

From Lathrop, it is 36 miles to the 
bridge over the San Joaquin River. Here 
the cars come to a full slop before crossing, 
to be sure to guard against accidents— as 
the bridge has a " draw " for the accom- 
modation oltlie river boats. This company 
has a rule for all their employes, and a 
" Golden" one it is, that " In case of un- 
certainty, always take the safe side.'" This 
rule is well observed; few " accidents " take 
place on the roads operated by this com- 
pany, for the reason that the road is con- 
structed of good materials, and in the most 
$ubstantial manner, with all its equipments 
of the first class. The otlicers are thor- 
oughly practical men, who never discharge 
an employe, on any consideration, who hus 
proved to be a competent man for his posi- 
tion, simply to make room for a favorite, 
or a worthless " cousin.'" 

Crossing the bridge, the long range of 
the ('onti-a Costa Mountains looms up in 
the distance, directly ahead, and extends a 
long distance to the right and left, on either 
hand, as though to effectually stop our 
progress. We cannot see any place to get 
through or over them, yet we are sure San 
Francisco is on the other side. 



Danta— is 1-4 miles from tlie bridge, 
and is reached after passing over a 
broad bottom, the soil of which is a 
rich, deep sandy loam and very produc- 
tive. This station consists of a post- 
odice, a half-dozen stores, several large 
freight warehouses, with a surrounding 
country, well settled, most of which is 
under cultivation. Stages leave this 
station on ariival of trains for Grayson- 
ville, 20 miles; Mahoney, 35 miles; and 
Hill's Ferry, 44 miles. 

After letiving the station, we have 
witnessed, on several occasions, by look- 
ing away to the right, that curious 
phenomenon, the mirage, which is often 
seen on the desert. (See page 142). 

At Tuacy — three miles west of lianta 
we come to the junction of the new 
San Pablo & Tulare Railroad, a division 
of the Central, opened n the summer of 
1878, and runs via Martinez, along San 
Pablo Bay via Jierkley to Oakland, dis- 
tance 83 miles to San Francisco, with 
710 grades, being 12 miles longer than 
the route via Ijivermore Pass. We sliall 
take this Route first, and then return. 

Tracy— is situated on a br-^ad plain, 
with the Contra Costa range of moun- 
tains to the south and westward, and 
the -an Joaquin River on the east and 
northward, the broad bottom lands of 
which extend for over thirty miles 
north, where they unite with, and from 
thence become the great Sacramento 
Valley, extending farther than the eye 
can reach. The station buildings are 
located between the old and the new 
tracks, and are very commodious. 

From Tracy, our course is nnrth of 
west, direct for the junction of the 
Sicramento and San Joaquin Rivers. 
The country is i)rincii)ally settled by 
agriculturists and small stock raisers. 
.The lands where cultivated, are fenced, 
and can always be depended upon for 
;raising good crops; some without irri- 
'gation, but all with it— the facilities 
for which are readily obtained, and 
with little expense. 

Bethany— is the first station after 
leaving Tracy, trains stop on signal. 

To the left five miles, are the Contra 
Costa mountains, grass covered, with 
timber in the ravines, and some trees on 
the higher peaks. Near the station, on 
the left, is a grove of eucalyptus trees. 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



179 



Continuing on nine miles, we reach 
another sii^nal station, named Byron. 
from whicli it is tive miles to the signal 
station of BkentwO( >d. Oak trees are 
numerous for the last ten miles, with 
some chaparral in places on the right. 
Tlie soil is a rich sandy loam, warm, and 
easily worked. The mountains to the 
left, are closer and covered with trees. 
Five miles further and we stop at 

Antioch !*$tation — The town is 
one mile to the right, on the banks of 
the San Joaquin Kiver, above its junc- 
tion with the Sacramento. Seepage 18^. 

Leaving Antioch, we pass under three 
railroad tracks which come down from 
the coal mines, two miles to the left, and 
run to sliipping wharfs one mile to the 
right. Tiiese mines are extensive, but 
the quality is quite ordinary. 

Our road for the next twenty miles i^ 
cut through many narrow rocky or san- 
dy spurs, from 50 to 100 feet in height 
that shoot down from the mountains 
on our left, to the water's edge on our 
right, between which, are as many little 
creeks, or slouglis, over wliich tlie road 
is built, sometimes on piles, and with 
tuile lands on each side. 

Cornwall — is five miles from An- 
tioch, opposite Suisun Bay, just below 
the junction of the Sacramento and San 
Joaquin Rivers, which are one mile to 
the right. 

At this station we get a first view of 
the town of Benicia, five miles ahead to 
the right, on the opposite side of the 
waters. Those large buildings on the 
higher ground are the U.S. arsenal and 
barracks. (See description page 187.) 

To the lelt of our train, all along be- 
side the moimtains, are many well- 
fenced and cultivated farms, with neat 
cottages surrounded by orchards, vine- 
yards, fruit, and flowers, together with 
evergreen sliade trees in great variety, 
and in great abundance. 

Passing Bay Point in eight miles, 
Avon in three, four more brings us to 

Martinez— the county seat of Con- 
tra Costa county, a small town of about 
600 inhabitants. The country is princi- 
pally devoted to agriculture and vine 
culture, the vineyards being numerous 

Continuing along, at times on the 
river bank and through several rocky 
cuts, S}4 miles brings us to the Short 
Line Overland Route. (See page 183). 



Cllis — is 5.2 miles from Bantas, west, 
situated in the midst of a beditiful valley, 
which is rapidly settling up. The coal 
mines of Corral Hollow are fourteen miles 
distant from this station to the southeast, 
connected a portion of the way by rail- 
track. The "Central " Co. use large quan- 
tities of this coal — besides transporting it 
to San Francisco, and other cities and 
towns. Since leaving the last station we 
have gained altitude, this station being 
76 feet elevation. Another engine will be 
attached here, as the grade increases rap- 
idly after leaving this station until we get 
to the summit of the mountain. 

Midway — formerly called "Zink 
House," is 5.7 miles from Ellis; elevation, 
357 feet. Soon after leaving the station, 
v\e enter the blufl's, pass through deep 
cuts and over high fills, our two iron 
horses puffing and blowing furiously as 
they labor up the heavy grade. These 
bluffs are heavy sand, and almost destitute 
of vegetation. To our right can be seen 
the old wagon road, but now almost de- 
serted. Still ujnvard and onward, the 
long train thundering around this jutting 
point, and over that high embankment 
twisting and turning, first to the right, ana 
then to the left, like some huge serpent, 
while the blufts seem to increase in height, 
and the canyon is nairower and darker at 
every turn, until, at last, we are plunged 
into total darkness, and tlie tunnel of Liver- 
more Pass ; elevation, 740 feet This tun- 
nel is the only one on the road from Sacra, 
mento to San Fi'ancisco; is 1,116 feet long, 
supported by heavy timbers. (See illus- 
tration, page 177 

Passing through the tunnel, our descent 
is rapid, through a narrow canyon, down 
into one of the loveliest little valleys in 
the whole country, and 7.9 miles from 
Midway our train stops al 

Altainont — This is a small station 
at the foot of the mountain. Speeding to 
the westward 8.1 miles, brings us to 

Lfivermore — a thrifty town of about 
1,200 inhabitants, most of whom are en- 
gaged in agricultural pursuits. The town 
is the center of Livermore Valley — one of 
the most fertile in the State— is about 20 
miles long and fifteen miles wide, sur- 
rounded by the Contra Costa Mountains, 
and their numerous spurs. To the north, 
away above the head of the valley, rises 
Mt, Diablo, the meridian center of the 
Pacific coast. 

At the station are Beveral very large 



180 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



warehouses for storing grain — as this is a 
productive grain valley — several large 
hotels, some slores and many fine, cosily 
residences. Here are particularly notice- 
able the eucalyptus, or Australian blue 
gTim tree; we have seen it in a few placts 
before, but from this time Ibrward they 
will be found numerous, in some places 
comprising immense groves. These trees 
are planted along the sides of the streets, 
around public buildings, in the grounds of 
private residences, and by the Railroad 
Company, in immense quantities.. The 
latter had 300,000 of these trees growing 
beside their road and around their stations 
in the year in 1877, and we understand 
500,000 more are to be set out as soon as 
they can be procured. One peculiarity of 
this tree, besides its being an evergreen 
and unusually thrifty, is, that it will grow 
on the most sandy, alkaline, dry and bar- 
ren soil, and it is said to be a sure preven- 
tive against chills and fever, whtire it is 
grown in profusion. Some claim that it is 
fire-proof, and that shingles or plank sawed 
from"thcse trees will not burn, and for that 
reason they are very much esteemed in 
Australia — its native country — and from 
which the first on this coast were imported. 
There are 125 known species ot the 
eucalypti, about 50 of which are to be 
found in California. 

Leaving Livermore, the ground is 
covered very thickly in places with white, 
water-worn pebbles, from the size of a 
mustard seed to that of a bird's egg; when 
the ground is bare of grass or grain, they 
show ver}' plainly. 

Pleasanton — is reached 6.1 miles 
west of Livermore, after crossing a long 
bridge over Alameda Creek. The town 
contains about 600 population and is beau- 
tifully situated on the western edge of 
the valley, and is a thrifty, substantial town. 

Leaving the station, the mountain again 
looms up directly ahead, and it looks to be 
impossible liiis time to get through it; but 
soon the train passes arouiul, or through 
several mountain spurs, and emerges into 
a narrow canyon, down which ripples the 
sparkling Alameda Creek. The bluHs on 
each side are steep, and covered with scri.b 
oaks, wild oats,and bunch grass. iSycamt re 
trees are to be seen, also v/hite and live 
oaks, some with long, drooping moss- 
covered buuglis — some very iai'gt; — gniw 
in^ on the banks of the creek, presenting a i 
a distance the appearance of an apple-tree 
laden with fruit. On we go, down 



clown, first on one side of the creeli, then 
on the other, the blutis drawing in close on 
both sides, through deep cuts, over high 
bridges, wilii rajiidly changing scenery on 
either hand. Soon we enter a little valley 
where once was located the San Jose Junc- 
tion at 

ISuiiol — the road bed of which can be 
seen on the left. Then the caynou narrows 
to a gorge, and on, on we go past the old 
"Vallejo Mill," the track curving to the 
westward, and 11.6 miles from Pleasan- 
ton the train arrives at 

Nilos — elevation 86 feet. From Liver- 
more Pass we have descended 654 feet, and 
are now in the valley, which continues to 
San Francisco Bay. 

Niles is situated in the thickest settled 
portion of Alameda Valley, surrounded by 
the finest lauds in the State of California, 
aail will, at no distant day, be a place of 
considerable im])ortance. Seven miles to 
the south, by rail, are the noted warm 
springs of Alameda county. 

Niles is now the junction of the San 
Jose branch, which runs around the head 
of Alameda Valley and San Francisco Bay. 
As the train for San Jose is ready, let ua 
step on boartl and take a look at the coun- 
try. Four miles brings us to Washington, 
About two miles to the east is located the 
old mission San Jose, in a delightful nook 
in the mountains, just such a beautiful site 
as all the old Padres were sure to select. 
Three miles further is the Warm SriiiNOS, 
Avhere the traveler will find ample accom- 
modations for a pleasant sojourn. These 
springs are situated a short distance from 
the station, in a quiet little valley among 
the foot-hills, rather retired, surrounded 
by attractive scenery. The waters are im- 
pregnated with sulphur, and are highly 
spoken of for their medicinal qualities. 
Near these springs is one of several coun- 
try resideices owned by the Hon. Leland 
Stanford, President of this road. Il is now 
occupied by his brother, Josiah, who over- 
looks many orchards of choice fruit, be- 
sides a vineyard ci nlaining UiO,000 vines. 
From the Springs it is four miles to MiL- 
PETAS, and seven more to San Jose, at 
which place the " Central " connects with 
the Southern Pacific railroad ft r the north 
and south. (See description of San Jose 
on page 20GJ 

Returning to Niles, we continue our 
journey towards " Frisco." 

On a clear day, thecity of San Francisco 

96 miles distant — can be distinctly .seen 



CBOFUTT S NEW OVKRLAXD TOURIST 



181 



a little to the left, ahead of the train across 
the bay. 

Decota— is three miles from Niles, 
through beautiful tields on our left and 
high blufl's on the right. This is a new- 
town — one preparing for the future, and 
promises at this time to be one of unusual 
importance as a suburban residence for the 
merchant princes of San Francisco. 

The lots are very large, with wide aven- 
ues, beside which are planted long rows of 
trees — mostly eucalyptus — to the numb; r 
of from 40,000 to 50,000. The water comes 
from living springs, which flow abundantly 
a few miles to the east in the mountains. 
To the left the valley stretches away ten 
miles to San Francisco Bay, dotted here 
and there with comfortable farm-houses, 
and on all sides extensive and well-culti- 
vated fields. 

Passing along, many young orchards and 
gi'oves of trees will be noticeable, also some 
of the beautiful country residences of Sau 
Francisco's merchants. 

Hay ward's [Station — is 6.3 miles 
from Decota. The town is one mile to the 
east, nestling in beside the mountains, and 
a lovely hamlet it is, completely embow- 
ered in ornamental trees, among which are 
the Japanese persimmon. Near the town 
are two groves of eucalyptus trees, of about 
150 acres, aggregating 250,000 trees, 200,000 
of which are raising for the Railroad Com- 
pany. The town has a population of about 
l.OoO, many of whom do business in San 
Fiancisco, going and returning daily, 22 
miles. 

Along this valley for many miles, the 
Railroad Company have planted, beside 
their road, double rows of the "gum-tree," 
as the eucal^-ptus is called here, and we 
understand, should the experiment prove 
satisfactory they wiL continue the planting 
until their whole 2,000 miles of roail anil 
branches from Ogden, in Utah, to Yuma, 
in Arizona, will all be lined with these pe- 
culiar trees. 

From Hay ward's it it 2.7 miles to 

LiOreiizo— This is a small village sur- 
rounded by wealth of all kinds. Away to 
the right, beside the mountain, that large 
building is the County Poor House. Some 
of the pioneers of this country, and others 
that were once lich, are in that building. 
This is a country where the "nps auXl 
downs" are very mpid ; one is rich to-day, 
with gold to throw away, then poor l"u 
morrow, without a farthing in the world. 

Alameda county isnotedfor its peculiarly 



rich and tertiie soil, which seems espe- 
cially adapted to the cultivation of all kinds 
of fruit and vegeiables, the size and weight 
of which are tndy marvelous. This val- 
ley is the currants' home, which are raised 
in immense quantities. Here is located a 
large drying establishment, by the Alden 
process. One man, a Mr, Meek, has a 
2,200 acre farm here, on 300 of which, are 
250,000 currant bushes, 1,200 almond trees, 
4,200 cherry trees, 8,000 prune and plum, 
1,500 pear, 2,500 apple, 1,500 peach, and 
2,000 apricot trees, besides six acres in 
blackberries, and many orange trees. 

Another poor fellow has 120 acres, on 
which are 2,000 plum trees, 2,000 cherry, 
1,500 pear, 1,000 apple, 400 peach and apricot 
trees, and 25 acres in currants and berries. 
Still another individual has 100,000 cur- 
rant bushes, and the fourth, raised in 1877, 
200 tons of pumpkins, 300 tons of beets, 
and 20 tons of carrots. Currants grow aa 
large as filberts; cherries, three inches in 
circumlerance ; plums, pears, apples, 
peaches, and apricots, extraordinarily 
large, while carrots grow three leet long, 
and weigh '6o pounds ; cabbages, 75 pounds ; 
onions, five pounds; water-melons, 85 
pounds; pumpkins — well, no scales can 
weigh (hem — pears, 3j^ pounds ; straw- 
berries, two ounces ; and beets — not hoode- 
lums — 200 pounds. These beets beat in 
weight those raised in any other country — 
so I'ar as heard from — and, one of our aged 
and revered philosophers once said "they 
beat the devil."— Possibly, we are not 
sufficiently educated to make any 2}ositiv« 
statement of the kind that could be taken 
as reliable All kinds of grain yields are 
enormous. 

From Lorenzo, it is 2.7 miles to 

!§an L<eaii<lro— This place contains 
a population of about 2,000. It was once 
the county seat of Alameda county, but that 
honor was taken away to enrich Oakland, 
yet the citizens seem to stand the loss, and 
do not stop in their eflbrts to improve and 
beautify the town, or in raising the finest 
and largest vegetables in the Slate. 

The next station is 4.2 miles distant, 
called 

Melrose— This is a small station at 
the juucliou of the Alameda railroad. Close 
beside the mountain, on the right, is lo. 
ated the ^lills Seminary, for young ladies. 
The buildmg cost about $1U0,0U0. Th« 
mounds occupy G5 acres, and are mosi 
lieautiful, in trees, lawns, etc. 

Alameda — Alameda county, is foui 



182 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



miles to the left of this station. Popula- 
tion 1,600. It is situated on tlie eastern 
shore of San Francisco Bay, four miles 
from Alameda Point, and ten miles from 
San Francisco, with which it is connected by 
ferry boats, by the San Francisco & Ala- 
meda railroad, and with the " Central " at 
Melrose. It has good schools and 
churches and elegant private residences 



center of the city of Oakland, and not on 
the track used by the Overland train, until 
the long pier is reached below Oakland 
Point. When the road was tirst built, all 
trains run through the heart of the city, 
but subsequently a road was built on piles 
over the shoal water on the edge of the bay, 
skirting the city front, reaching the old 
track on the pier, half a mile below Oak- 



The town abounds in beautiful groves |land Point, since which time Uvoiiand 
of oaks. The Encinal and oilier parks are trains, by this route, take that track, 
very beautiful. It is a favorite resort for | Leaving East Oakland our train runs 
bathers and for picnic parties from San along over the water, affording a very good 
Francisco. The Encinal and Argus, holh view of the bay on the left, and on the 
weekly papers, are published here. right, Oakland, ana mountain to the back 

Passing on to the westward, the traveler of it. Two miles further and the train 
will note a race track on the left, where stops at the station for 
some of the best blooded stock in the State Oakland. — the county seat of Ala- 
can often be seen exercising. meda county, has a population of 34,700, 

Near by is a large smelting furnace, for and is the second city in size on the Pacific 
manipulating gold, silver, and other ores, coast. Few cities in the world have ever 

We are now passing through what — increased, with as good, healthy, substantial 
only a few years since — was an open coun- growth, as has Oakland within the last 
try, now the suburbs of a big city, that is seven or eight years. According to the 
known as census of 1870, the population was 11,- 

East Oakland— once called Brook- 104, an increase in ten years of nearly 
lyn, 2.3 miles from Melrose- An incor- twenty-four thousand, 
porated part of Oakland— a very thrifty AVhat Brooklyn, New York, is to New 
place— is separated from the old city by York City, so is Oakland to the city of San 
an arm of San Antonio Creek, but con- Francisco. The name of the city is sig- 
nectecl by bridges. East Oakland and nificant of its surroundings, as it is situated 
Oakland are situated on the eastern shore in an extensive grove of evergreen oaks, 
of San Francisco Bay, on ground which with orchards, parlts, gardens and vme- 
slopes gradually back from the bay for yards on every side. Nestling amidst this 
several miles to the foot-hills, or base of forest of perpetual green, can be seen, 
the Contra Costa ]\Iountains, in their rear, peeping out here and there, the magnificent 
Upon this sloping ground ure built many villa of the nabob, the substantial resi- 
elegant "out of town " residences of the dence of the wealthy merchant, and the 
merchants of San Francisco, which com- neat and tasteful cottage of the " well-to- 
mand a beautiful view of their city, the do" mechanic, who have been attracted 
Bay, the Golden Gate, and the surrounding bore by its grand scenery, mild climate, 
country. ^^^ quiet surroundings — being free from 

A short distance to the northeast, in a dust, noise, or the bustle of a large city de- 
canyon of the mountains, are situated the voted to business. 
" Piedmont White Sulphur Springs." Oakland is lighted with gas ; has broad, 

These springs an 
with sulphur, and 

possess medicinal qualities. But why Cal-^ ^^^^ times, and the Democrat, and is pro- 
ifornians should be sick, or drmk sulphur i ^j^j^j with just a score of churches. The 
water, when they have such ^wdwmc, and ^jj^g qjj Fellows, and many of the 
80 much of it, we are unable to understand. ^^^^^ .^^^^^ j^^^^ j^^j,g ^^^ j^^jj regulai 
! only cotton mill on the Pacific coast is^ „iontin,Ta 



, . ', well-paved streets: is abundantly supplied 

.re_ strondy impregnated ^j,j^ ^.^^^ supports several horse rail- 

[1 It 13 claimed that they ^.^^^^ ^j^^^g ^j.^j, Qgwspapers-the ^nft- 

r.nnlifioo Kill <9r/)'»/ I ,n I. ,., . . ¥ -^ *■ ^ . i » 



The only ' 

located at this place— the "Oakland Cotton 

Mills." 

Steam cars run regularly between the 
city and San Francisco, every half-hour, 
fare 15 cents; by commutation tickeis 
much less. These cars run through the 



meetings. 

Public and private schools are ample. 
The higher educational institutions com. 
prise the University of California, the State 
University School, the Female College of 
the Pacific, the Oakland Military School, 
the Oakland Female Seminary, and the 



crofutt's new ovekland tourist 



183 



Convent of " Our Lady of the Sacred 
Heart." The University of California is 
at Berivley, four miles distant. J t is C( )n- 
structed throughout of brick and iron 
— they say, earthquake and fire-proof. 

Near tlie University, towards the bay. 
islocateil ilie State Asylum rf the Deaf, 
Dumb and Blind. It is amassive stone 
building, three stories high, 300 feet 
above the bay. and commanding a very 
extensive view. Oakland, besides its 
attractions as a place of residence, 
has many manufactories, some very 
extensive, giving employment to hun- 
dreds of people. We iiave it from the 
be-t authority, that tiiere are $4,:r)0,000 
invested in iht^ manufacturing business, 
tlie anil ual product of which amounts to 
an enormous sum. The ( entral Pacific 
Railroad Comi)any completed a road 
called ihelkikley 15 anch, and opened 
it for business January 9, 187>:, wliicli 
commences at tlie end of the pier at 
West Oakland, and runs nortli and east- 
ward around mountains of the Contra 
Costa Uange, and in full view of San 
Pablo Bay, to Martinez, 3-') miles, thence 
to Tracy," 48 miles, [see page 178]. By 
this route all overland trains run (Itiring 
1870, and I'V which the trains for Los 
Angeles, Yuma, and Arizona now I'un. 
[S e map, page 120 ]. 

The principal hotel at Fast Oak'aiid 
isTubbs'; at Oakland, the Grand Cen- 
tral. At Oakland Point, from which 
the long pier is built out into the bay, 
are located the extensive workshops oi' 
the Central Pacific. Their yard and 
ground occupy 129 af-res. 

Leaving Oakland, our t'ain speeds 
along tlirough the edge of the ciiy for 
about lialf a mile, then gradually curves 
to the southward, running out to meet 
the main Oakland pier, which it reaches 
1.4 miles from Oakland, 1.6 miles from 
the Oakland end of the pier, and 2.1 
miles from the end of the pier to tlie 
westward. Down this long pier rolls 
our train, directly into the bay — iiut we 
must return to Sacramento, for the last 
time, and take 

The Xew Short Line Ronte. 

See time table 
Taking our seat in the cars, in the 
" Central" depot, the train crosses the 
bridge — GOO feet long — over the- Sacra- 



mento River, and pass through the 
town of 

Washington— on the west bank, a 
place of about 1,0 ;0 population, then 
cross the "Tuiles"— a broad belt of over- 
fiowed swamp land— on an embankment 
and ti'estle bridge, raised above the an- 
nual floods, until we reach the highlands 
or elevated plains. The trestle bridge 
affords passage for the flood tides. 

From Sacramento it is 8.3'> miles to 

Webster — a small side-track for 
loading cattle, near by which large 
numbers of cattle are kept and fed, 
preparing for market. From Webster 
it is 4.88 miles to 

Davis— the junction of the Marys- 
ville Branch, where the road passes on 
north to Knight's Landing and Willows. 
It contains a population of about 600. 
with many fine private residences. 

Turning i orth — from Davis — we pass 
through large groves of live oak, and 
highly cultivated fields, and 5.05 miles 
from Davis, come to a side-track for 
loading cattle, called Merrit— but it 
did not have merit enough forour train 
to stop, so we passed along 4.34 miles to 

W'ooDLAXD— the rouutyseat of Yolo 
county, situated three miles west of 
Cache Creek, in the midst of an e.Kten- 
sive plain. The town is one of the 
most thriving in the State. Population 
aliout 3,000. Yolo county, in the sum- 
mer, is one vast wheat field — far, almost 
as the eye can reach, the waving wheat 
stretihes away on either hand. Huge 
oaks are seen in every direction, and 
several large warehouses for wheat 
ai)pear. The principal hotels are the 
('rapt, and the Capital. Along I he road 
we will observe a number of vineyards. 
Soon after leaving Woodland, on the 
right, can be seen the race track, where, 
at certain seasons, some good titne is 
made. Again on the left, the track of 
the Xorthern railway branches off for 
Willows. Groves of oak and bands of 
sheep are numerous, 

Curtis — A side-track, is passed 5.08 
miles from Woodland, and 4.n.") miles 
more brings us to 

Knight's I^andino — at the landing 

of which we stop[)ed on our way "up 

the Sacramento." (-^ee description, page 

171). 

Returning to Woodland we take the 



184 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



Xortlierii Railway. 

This road is operated by the "Cen- 
tral, "and passes tlirough one continu- 
ous icheat field for the ivliole distance 
from Woodland to Willows, 87 miles. 
The stations and distances are Yolo, 
4.91 miles; Blacks, 5.88 miles; Diinni- 
gan, 7.52 miles ; Harrington, 5.04 miles ; 
Arbnckle, 517 miles ; Berlin, 4.6 miles ; 
Maey, .93 miles; AVilliams, 5.73 miles; 
Maxwell, 8.85 miles; Delevan, 5.24 
miles ; Norman, 3. GO miles ; Logandale, 
2.36 miles, and 5.57 miles more to the 
"end of the track," at Willows. This 
road follows the general course of the 
SacramentoRiver,at a distance of from 



ten to twenty miles to the westward. 

The Hot Sulphnr Springs are situa- 
ted about ten miles Avest of Williams, 
and are quite a resort for invalids. 
Crude sulphur is found in quantities. 

Returning to Davis we start again 
for the south. 

Just after crossing Putah Creek we 
come to the great vineyard belonging 
to aMr.Briggs. It contains 500 acres, 
the greaterportion of which is devoted 
to raisin grapes, the balance is in al- 
monds, figs, apricots and other fruit. 

Tremont is the first station on the 
bills, 3.79 miles from Davis, but here 
trains seldom stop. 



Ko. -iii Annex.— The <i;ej'Sers— No. 17 of 
our large series of views gives a very truthful 
picture of this wouderful region. Here extremes 
meet iu a luost astonishing way, if the diversity 
of mineral springs can be called extremes, as they 
are over two hundred in number and possess 
every variety of characteristics ; some are hot 
and others are icy cold ; some contain white 
sulphur, souiehlack, some red, oryellow ; others 
alum — and boiling alum at that; others iron; 

others soda ; others oh, well, it's idle to go 

on ]:)articularizing. You have but to naine your 
spring, and it is ready tor you. Side by side boil 
and bubble the hottest of hot si)rings, and the 
coldest of cold ones, being frequently but a few 
inches ai)art. Indeed, so closely do they lie to- 
gether that the f reatestcare must be exercised 
lest one should ste\i knee-deep into a boiling cal- 
dron or an icy bath. Even the rocks become 
thoroughly heated, and quantities of magnesia, 
siilphur, alum, eijsom salts, and many other 
chemicals, lie thickly strewn about, making a 
sort of druggist's paradise. The noises, too, and 
the smells, are as diversified as the character of 
the springs ; some hiss, some mimnur, some 
roar. Of these springs, one is known as the 
"Devil's Grist-Mill ;" another, the "Calliope;" 
then the "Steamboat Geyser, the "Witche's Cal- 
dron," the "Mountain of Fire," the latter of 
•which contains more than a hundred apertures, 
and in all of these are shown, each for itself, some 
interesting and remarkable peculiarity. (See 
roiite to tlie Geysers on pages 198 and 200.) 

Xo. H'A Annkx. [From pages 'JIO and 211.] 
Yii-Spiiiite aiidBi'iTfe«'"s-Ej:n?np?e,by the 
.lew Madera Route, for a trip of less than o days. 
Take Sleeper, ana leave San Francisco (say on 
Monday) at 4 p. m., dine at I.athrop, at S p. m., 
arrive at Maderia at 12 :10 a. m., Tuesday morn- 
ing. Rest in sleeper until 5 :30, breakfast, take 
stage and leave at (! a. Ui., arrive at Clark's at 3 
p.m., and Yo-Semite at 7 1). m. Distances: 
From San Francisco to Ijathi-op. ... 91 miles. 

Lathrop to Madera 91 " 

Madera to Clark's .51 " 

Clark's to Yo-Semite 24 

Total 2G0. 

Time, 27 hours. 

Stay in Valley two days. 
Returning, leave the Valley at 1 p. m. Thurs- 
day ; arrive at Clark's at 6 p. m ; leave Clark's Fri- 
■day, G a. m., via Big Trees, and arrive at Madera 



at 7 p. m., and take sleeper ; leave Madera Satur- 
day 4:15 a. m., reach Lathrop for breakfast, and 
arrive in San Francisco at 1 2 :35 p. m. Special 
Sleepers run between San Francisco and Madera, 
giving two full nights' rest, avoiding early and 
late changes, and many annoyances heretofore 
experienced by the tourist. 

The new wagon road from Clark's into and 
through the Mariposa Grove of Big frees — 427 in 
number, the largest being 24 feet in diameter- 
enables the tourist to spend a portion of a day iu 
the Grove without additional charge and make 
the same connections. 

The old route is to Merced, by same train, stop 
over attho ElCIapitanHotel.andnextmorningtake 
coaches via either Snelling and Coulterville, or 
via Mariposa. Taking the Coulterville route, 12 
miles, at Mai-ble Springs, is Bowers' Cave ; 20 
more. Hazel Green. From Hazel Green, eleva- 
tion b,69i) feet, a fine view of the great San Joa- 
quin Valley can be obtained. Here the McLane 
wagon road leads off to the Merced Grove of 
Trees. At Crane Flat, 34 miles from Coulterville, 
a trail leads off to the Tuolumne Grove of Big 
Trees, one mile distant. There are 31 trees, the 
lai-gest being 3(5 feet in diameter. The first view 
of Yo-Semite is had at Valley View. 40 miles 
fi-om Coulterville and 12 miles from Yo-Semite. 
Distance by this route is about 24.5 miles. 

The Mariposa route is via the town of Maripo- 
sa, 40 miles, thence to Clark's 31 miles. At 
Clark's, a road leads to theMariposa gi-ove of trees. 

STAGE CO. TOURIST TICKET E\TES. 

Exc. 1. San Francisco via Madera to Yo- 
Semite and Return $59.00 

Exc. 3. Lathrop viaMadera to Yo-Semite 

and Return 54.00 

Exc. 5. San Francisco ■via Merced to Yo- 
Semite and Return 55.00 

Exc. 7. Latnrop via Merced to Y'o-Semite 

and Return 50.00 

Exc. 9. Madera ti Yo-Semite and Return 45.00 
Exc. 11. Merced " " " " 45.00 

Exc. 13. Madera " " (Single Trip) 25.00 

Exc. 15. Merced " " " " 25.00 

Sam. MUler, Tourist Agent, Palace Hotel, San 
Francisco. 

W'e give the above "Example" that those whose 
"time is money," can calculate accordingly. Pas- 
sengers can leave SauFranciscoat the same time 
every day iu the week,' and make the same time 
on a round trip, or, can stop over as long as they 
choose. Tickets good untU used. 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



1P5 



Dixon — is 4.26 miles from Tremont, 
ami is quite a thrifty town, situated in 
tlie midst of a fine aaricultuial section 
of Solano county. It has several hotels, 
and a number of stores. It is 3.35 miles lo 
Batavia — and 4.84 miles t<> 

Elinira— which has a pop. of 30U, 
most of whom are agriculturalists. 
Here the Vaca Valley railroad branches 
off to the north, through Yolo, the great 
wheat county, 27 miles to Madison. 

Cannon — is a rtag station, 3.97 miles 
from Elmira, and 6.85 miles from 

Snisnn — near the town of Fairtield, 
county seat of .solona county, situated 
on a broad plain, with a iiopulation of 
1,000. and rapidly increasing. Small 
schooners come up the slough from the 
Sacramento Kiver, to near the town. 

From Sacramento to this station our 
train has folhnved the triiclc of the 
California Pacific, once called the 

Vallejo Route — It was distant by 
rail from Sacramento to Vallejo 60 
miles, and from Vallejo, via. steamers 
over San Pablo Bay, 26 miles, making 
86 miles to San Francisco. 'I'liis route 
is now changed — but let us go and see. 
From FairHeld, it is 5.38 miles lo 

Bridgeport — Just before reaching 
the station, a short tunnel is i)assed. 
tlirough a spur of the western range, 
which is tlirown out to the south, as 
though to bar our progress, or to sliut 
in the beautiful little valley in the 
center of which is located the station. 

The grade now begins to increase, as 
our train is climbing the Suscol Hills, 
wliich border San Pablo l'>ay. These 
hills are very produ( tive, the soil being 
adobe. To the tops of the highest and 
steepest hills the grain fields extend, 
even where machinery cannot be used 
in harvesting. In the valley through 
which we have passed are several thriv- 
ing towns, but not in sight. 

From Bridgeport it is 3.83 miles to 

Crestox — but we will not stop, but 
roll down through the hills bordering 
the bay, S.7 miles to 

Napa Junction — Here we are in 
Napa Valley, which is on the west; be- 
yond are the Sonoma hills, over which 
is the Sor.oma Valley; to the south- 
ward San Pablo Bay. At this junction, 
we meet the Napa Valley branch, 
which runs north to Calistoga, .35 miles. 



(For a description, see page 19fi). 

Continning, our route is now south, 
along the base of the iiill we have just 
crossed, which also runs soutli to the 
Straits of Caiquinez, the outlet of the 
Sacramento liiver, which flows into 
San Pablo Bay. The Fair Grounds 
of the counties of Napa and Sonoma 
are passed, on the right, 3.2 miles, ami 
three miles further appears North Val- 
lejo, 1.1 miles more. South Vallejo, 
where the boats once laid which con- 
veyed passengers over San Pablo ami 
Sail Francisco Bays, 26.25 miles to the 
City of San Francisco. A description 
of this route across the bay, will be 
found on page 19 j. As Nortli and 
South Vallejo are virtually one, we 
shall speak of them as 

Vallejo — The town is situated on 
the southeastern point of the high- 
rolling, grass-covered hills bordering 
Vallejo Bay, which is about four miles 
long ;ind a half mile wide, with 24 feet 
of water at low tide. The harbor pos- 
sesses excellent anchorage, and vessels 
are securely sheltered from storms. 
The largest vessels find safe waters; 
and here are laid up the United States 
ships when not in use on this coast. 
The naval force, including the moni- 
tors, oil this side, all rendezvous here. 
On Mare Island, just across the bay, 
are the Government works, dry docks, 
arsenals, etc., eini)loying 5ii0 men. The 
finest section dock on the coast is loca- 
ted on the island, just in front of the 
town; connected by ferry-boats. 

The population of Vallejo is 7,000. 
It has two newspapers, the Times and 
the Chronicle, daily and weekly. The 
IJernard ami the Howard are the two 
principal hotels. It has some fine build- 
ings— churches, and schools. The Orphan 
Asylum, a fine structure, stands on an 
elevation to the east of the town. There 
are some very large warehouses, and a 
great many vessels are loaded here with 
grain for foreign ])orts; it is also the 
southern terminus of the California 
Pacific railroad, which connects here 
with ferry boats that cross the Straits 
to the Vallejo Junction, on the Over- 
land Route, (see i>age 187). 

Returning to Snisun, it is 5.31 miles 
to Teal, 5.18 miles to Goodyears. and 
5.76 more to 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



187 



Kenicia — formerly the capitil of 
the State, at the head of ship navi.La- 
tii n, and contains about 2,000 inhabi- 
tants. It is a cliarmin'j, quiet, ranib- 
linj; old town, with little of the noise 
and hustle of the busy seaport. 

The United States arsenals and bar- 
racks are located near the town, and 
are worthy a visit. Benicia is celelira 
ted for her excellent schools. The 
only law school in the State is located 
here, and also ayoung ladies' seminary. 

Tlie Straits of Carquinez — pronounc- 
ed kar-kee-nez — are about one and a 
half miles in width, through which the 
8acraniento and San Joaquin Rivers 
reach San Pablo Bay, five miles west. 
In front of tlie city a long ferry slip 
has been built by the R. R. Co., and 
another on the west side of the Straits, 
at Port Costa. These slips are of piles 18 
inches in diameter, of an average 
length of 95 feet, braced and bolted in 
the strongest manner possible; between 
these slips plies the 

Nolaiio, thelargest steain ferry-boat 
in the world. To avoid the heavy 
grades by the way of Livermcn-e Pass, 
and the detour necessary to reach Sac- 
ramento, via. San Pablo and Stockton, 
at the same time to shorten the route, 
has for many years been a desideratum 
with the Railroad company. They 
finally settled on this route which has 
the advantage of being 49 miles shorter 
than the Livermore route, and 61 
miles less than by Martenez and Tracy. 

When this route was decided upon 
the next thing was to cross the Straits 
and build a boat that could take on 
board a large number of freight cars, 
or an entire passenger train. 

The "Solano" is the same length as 
the City of Tokio, and has the greatest 
breadth of beam of any vessel afloat. 
Her dimensions are: Length over all, 
424 feet; length of bottom — she has no 
keel — 4o(j feet ; height of sides in centre, 
18 feet, 5 inches; height of sides at 
each end from bottom of boat, 15 feet, 
10 inches; moulded beam, 64 feet; ex- 
treme width over guards 116 feet; 
width of guards at centre of boat, 25 
feet, 6 inches; reverse shear of deck, 
2% feet. She has two vertical steam 
engines of 60-inch bore, and ll-inch 
stroke. The engines have a nominal 
horse power each, but are capable of 



being worked up to 2,000 horse power 
each. The wheels are 30 feet in diam- 
eter, and the face of the baskets, 17 
feet. There are 24 baskets in each 
wheel, 30 inches deep. She has eight 
steel boilers, each being of the follow- 
ing dimensions: Length over all, 28 
feet; diameter of shell, 7 feet; 143 
tubes, 16 feet long by four inches diam- 
eter each; heating surface 1,227 feet; 
grate surface 224 feet; entire heating 
surface, 9,816 feet; entire grate surface, 
1,792 feet. The boilers are made in 
pairs, with one steam smoke-stack to 
each pair, 5 feet and 6 incites in diam- 
eter. She has 4 iron fresh- water tanks, 
each 20 feet long, and 6 feet in diame- 
ter : registers 483,541, 31-100 tons. She is a 
double ender, and at each end has four 
balance rudders, each \\% feet long 
and v)% feet in depth. They are con- 
structed with coupling rods, and each 
has one king pin in the centre for the 
purjjose of holding it in place. The 
rudders are worked by an hydi-aulic 
steering gear operated, by an indepen- 
dent steam pump, and responds al- 
most instantaneously to the touch. The 
engines are i)laced fore and aft, and op- 
erate entirely independent, each opera- 
tiufcone wheel. This arrangement of the 
engines and i)addles makes the boat 
more easily handled entering or leaving 
the slips, or turning quickly when re- 
quired, as one wheel can be made to 
go aliead and the other to reverse at 
the same time. One wheel is placed 
eight feet forward, and the other eight 
feet abaft the center of the boat. It 
has four tracks running from end to 
end, with the capacity of 48 freight, or 
24 passenger cars. In its construction, 
1..5t'0,000 feet of lumber were used. 
Many of the timbers are over 100 feet 
long; four, the Keelson's are 117 feet 
long, each measuring 4,032 feet. 

Leaving the stat ion, our road bed has, 
in many i)laces, been blasted through 
high rocky, narrow spurs. Soon after 
passin,^ one of these cuts, we catch the 
first glimpse of San Pablo Bay ahead. 
Next to tiie right. Mare Island, and 
further to the right still, Vallejo. 
(See page 1F5.) 

Valoiia— is 2.55 miles from Port 
Costa, frojn which it is half a mile to 

Vallejo Junction — opposite the 
city of Vallejo, between 



188 



CROFTTT S NEW OVERLAXD TOURIST 



which ply a line of ferry boats connect- 
ing with the California Pacific R. R. for 
Napa, Calistoga and the Geyser springs. 

Soon after our tiain passed Val' 'Na, a 
side track, it rolled into a long tunnel cii t 
through one of the largest of the many 
narrow rocky spurs wliich slope down 
from the mountains on the left to the 
waters of the straits on the right, like so 
many huge mountain fingers thrust out 
tautalizingly to bar our progress. How- 
ever, the annoyance is bttt momentary, 
for as we emerge from the dark tunnel 
to the glorious sunlight, a vision of beauty, 
one of the most diversified, suddenly ap 
pears, a^ though by magic, before our 
wondering eyes. What a glorious view ! 
Words can never do justice to the picture. 
Across the narrow straits to the right, is the 
harbor and city of Vallejo, with the Suscal 
Hills rising in the back ground chise to the 
eastward. Mare Island is one mile to the 
west, across the inlet; to the north, away 
l)eyond all, is beauteous Napa Vallejo at 
the head of which, forty miles away, is 
Mount St. Helena; still further, and more 
to the left are to be seen the mountains 
in which are situated the great Geyser 
Spriogs of California. Turning now more 
to the westward, our eye falls upon the 
Sonoma Hills, Sonoma Valley, Petal um a, 
Santa Rosa, and Russian River Vallej's, the 
richest and most productive in the world; 
l:)eyond, and bordering these are the great 
Redwood Forests of California ; still farther 
rise the long blue outline of the Coast 
Range. This range, which hounds our 
Tision to the west, extends .south to the Gol- 
den Gate. The most elevated peak is Mt. 
Tamalpais, 2,601 feet high. To the south- 
ward and left of our train, we behold a 
beautiful narrow valley, extending for 
miles, even to the rugged heights of the 
Contra Costa's. Nestling in the center 
of all these magnificent surroundings — 
like avast diamond — and sparkling from 
its countless myriads of ripples, is San Pa- 
blo Bay, ten miles in diameter, dotted here 
and there with the keels of commerce, and 
borderered with the deep evergreen of a 
semi-tropical country. Travelers write of 
the beauties of the Bay of Naples, the 
Lake of Como, etc., but we venture the as- 
sertion that for diversity of scenery, extent 
of vision and magnificent coloring, few 
views, if any, can compare with the one 
obtained from this point of San Pablo Bay, 
and tlie surroimding country 

Running along on the water edge, and 



crossing numerous creeks and inlets, 
through another tunnel, passed Torma, 
another side track, eleven miles from Mar- 
tinez, brings our train to 

Pinole — a small village with several 
large warehouses and a long pier extend- 
ing otit into the bay for the accommodation 
of boats and vessels touching at this j^lace. 
The country now presents a better agricul- 
tural appearance, less rocky, the hiJls are 
not so high, are cultivated to the top, and 
produce abundant crops. 

Four miles further we pass Sobrante, 
a side track, cross several beautiful valleys 
and San Pablo creek and stop at 

l^an Pablo — three miles from So- 
brante. The town, of about 500 population, 
is nearly one mile to the eastward, nestling 
in beside the mountain foot-hills, embow- 
ered in evergreens and surrounded by well- 
cultivated lands. 

We are now opposite the lower end of 
San Pablo Bay. The neck of land extend- 
ing three miles out to the westward is the 
southern boundary of tlie Bay, the extreme 
point of which is known as Point Pedro. 

Soon after leaving San Pedro station, tlie 
jiassenger wuU get the first glimpse of San 
Francisco, the Golden Gate, and their most 
prominent surroundings, the view improv- 
ing with each revolution of the wheels. 

The side track stations of B.\rrett, 
Stege, and Point Isabel, are each passed 
in as many miles, and another mile brings 
us to Delaw.\re St., opposite the town of 
Berkley, which is situated about one 
mile to the left, beside the same moun- 
tains that we have been attempting to "sur- 
round" for the last seventy miles. 

A short distance before reaching the last 
station, that building on the high point to 
the right, is the Powder Works ; the large 
one to the left, 50 yards from the track, is the 
Cornell Watch Factory. The view ob- 
tained at certain points along here of the 
city of San Francisco, the Golden Gate, 
the Bay and its Islands, are very fine. 

Two miles further we pass the Stock 
Yards, a side track, near which are located 
extensive yards for stock and several large 
slaughter-houses, then pass Shell Mol'nd 
Park, — a " road house" — and two miles 
further stop at 

Oakland, 16th St- (See Oakland 
page 1S2.) Its one mile further to 

Oakland Point— or West Oakland, 
and rolls down the pier, two miles in length, 
toward Stuidown, to the ferry-boat which 
conveys passengers over the waters, 3.7-10 



AND rACIFIC (OAST GUIDE. 



18» 



miles to the cit}' of San Francisco. (See 

large illustration of "Birds Eye view of 

San Francisco, and surrounding country.") 

Oakland Wharf— is on the end of 

this pier. Until the building of a pier at 
this place, the only harbor of Oakland was 
to the eastward, at the mouth of San 
Antonio Creek, the water to the westward 
being quite shallow for a long distance 
from shore. The feriy -boats leave and ar- 
rive to and from San Francisco, at this 
wharf every half-hour, and trains, many 
times composed of 18 or 20 jia-^s-enger cars, 
lun in connection with the l)oats to Oak- 
land, Berkley, and other points. 

The Pier— is builtof the best materials, 
and in the most substantial manner, with 
double track and carriage-way extending 
the whole length. There are "three slips. 
The one to the^nortli is GOO feet long, and 
will acconimodale the laigest i-hips, the 
Avater being 2UI2 f<-'^t in depth at low tide, 
and 33 at high tide. On each side of the slip 
are erected larue warehouses, one of them 
600x52 feet, the other 500x52 feet with 
tracks running through, for the purpose of 
loading and discharging. 

The next slip south was built to accom- 
modate the "Thoroughfare." This 



steamer was designed e.vpre sly for taking 
freight cars and cattle across the baj-. Her 
capacity is 1(3 loaded cars and pens for 16 
car-loads of cattle — 288 head— making 32 
car-loads in all. She once made a trip 
across the bay, loaded, running a distance 
of three and a half miles in 22 minutes. 
The l)oat is 200 Icet on deck, 08 feet beam, 
with Hat bottom. The engines are 200' 
horse power ; cy 1 inders, 22x84, and were con- 
structed at the company's shops in Sacra- 
mento. 

The soutli slip is the passenger slip,. 
where lands the regular ferry-boatT between 
Oakland and San Francisco. On each 
side of this slip is a passenger-house — one 
30x70 feet, the other 40.\50 fed. In these 
buildings are located Ihe division offices of 
the Railioad Company. They afford ample 
accommodations for passengers, and the 
enormous travel, the advance guard of 
which lias only just e-mmenced to arrive. 

The hist ship that loaded at this pier 
was the "Jennie Eastman," of Bath, Eng- 
land. She commenced loading August 
4th, 1870, for Liverpool, with wheat, 
brought — some from San Joaquin Vallej", 
but the grea'er portion from the end of the 
California and Oregon railroad, 230 miles 




PALACE HOTEL, -SAN FRAXCISCO. 

A. D. Sharon, Lesse 1. 



See Annex No. 50, 



190 



CROFUTt's new overland TOUKISr 



north of San Francisco. 
• It is liardiy understood yet by the people 
of tlie world, that the China, Japan, Sand- 
wich Island, and Aus-tralian steamships, 
and ships both large and small, can land 
at this pier, load and unload from and into 
the cars of the Pacific railroad; and those 
cars can be taken through, to and trom the 
Atlantic and Pacific Ocean, without change ; 
that immense quantities of gf)ods are now 
transported in that way, much of them in 
BO^D, in one-tenth the time heretofore oc- 
cupied by steamships and sailing vessels. 
When these facts are fully understood, 
and the necessary arrangements made, 
the rush of overland freight traffic will 
commence, the extent of which, within the 
next twenty yenrs,few, if any, can realize. 
From the landing place of the "Tliorough- 
fai'e," in San Francisco, a rail track leads 
to the dock of the Pacific mail, and other 
ocean steamships, and gonds are now 
transferred in. that \\;\y in bond, but the 
time is not far distant, when all foreign 
vessels, with goods lor "across the conti- 
nenf," will land at this pier. 

The Railroatl Comjiany have taken 
ample precautions against tire on this pier, 
by providing the two engines that are em- 
plo^'cd doing the yard work, with force- 
pump attachments, steam from the loco- 
motive boilei's, and supplied with reels of 
hose and suction-pipe so arranged that 
water can be used from their tanks or the 
bay. 

iBellold ! — As we stand at the end of 
this pier— almost in the middle of San 
Francisco Bay — and think back only thirty 
years, we are lost in wonder and astonish- 
ment. Here are already two great cities 
within a few miles of where westand ; the 
smallest has 34,700, while the largest teems 
with over 233,006 inhabitants — repre- 
sentatives from every land and clime on 
the face of the earth. In 1847 not 500 
white settlers could be found in as many 
hundred mdes, and not one ship a year 
visited this bay. Now there are seven 
large steamships in the China trade, six in 
the mail service via Panama, thirty-four 
more regularly engaged on the coast from 
Sitka, on the north; to South America, 
Honolulu, Australia, New Zealand, on the 
south ; besides hundred of ships and sail- 
ing vessels of every description — all busy — 
all life. Here, too, at the end of this pier, 
is the extreme western end of the grand 
system of American railways which has 
sprung into existence within the same 



thirty years. How fast we live! The 
gentle breeze of to-day was the whirlwind 
of fifty years ago. Will we — can tre — con- 
tinue at the same ratio V But why specu- 
late V It is our business to write what is 
taking place to-day; so we will now step 
on board the ferry-boat and take a look 
around while crossing the bay. 

Goat Island, or " Yerbir Buena'' is 
about one mile distant from the end of the 
pier, close to the right. It is nearly round, 
.!40 feet altitude, containing 350 acres. It 
belongs to the Government. Beyond, look- 
ing over the broad expanse of water, the 
mountains of Marin county loom up in the 
distance, the highest point being Mount 
Tamalpais, 2,604 feet high. It is in the 
Coast Range of mountains, at the south 
point of which is Golden Gate, with Al- 
catraz Island in the foreground. Directly 
in front is the city <f San Francisco. The 
highest point to the right is Telegraph 
Htll— the highest, //rr beyond, a little to 
the left, is Lone Mountain. In the center, 
that high building, looming up above all 
olhcrs,"is the Pahice Hotel; to the left the 
Bay of San Francisco. 

But we are at the ferry ; here passengers 
will find "buses" for all prominent hotels, 
or street cars that pass them all; fare, 
five cents. 

Sail Francisco— Ah ! here we are 
at sundown, at the exireme western city 
of the American Continent. Population, 
233, 06G, and increasing rapidly. 

On landing at the "feriy-slip in the city, 
the first thing required "is a good hotel. 
Now, if there is any oue thing that San 
Francisco is noted for ?«<? re than another it 
is for its palatial hotels. The Palace, Bald- 
win, Lick, Occident, Cosmopolitan and 
Grand, are all first-class, both in fare and 
price— charges from three to five dollars 
per day. The Brooklyn, Russ, Ameiican 
Exchange, and Interuatif)nal, are good 
hotels, at charges from $2 to $2.50 per day. 
Then there are a great many cheaper 
houses, like the "What Cheer," with rooms 
from 25 to 75 cents per night, with restau- 
rant meals t(j order. 

San Francisco is situated on the north 
end of the southern peninsula, which, 
with the northern one, separates the waters 
of San Francisco Bay from those of the 
Pacific Ocean. Between these peninsulas 
is the Golden Gate, a narrow strait, one 
mile wide, with a depth of 80 feet, con- 
necting the bay with the ocean. 

The city pre'sents a broken appearance, 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



lf>l 



owing to a portion being built on tlie liills, 
wliicli attain quite a respectable altitude. 
From the tops of tliese hills a very fair 
view of the city can be obtained. 

A large portion of the city is built on 
laud made by tilling out into the bay. 
Where the large warehouses now stand, 
ships of the heaviest tonnage could ride in 
safety but a few years ago. To protect this 
made land, and also to prevent the anchor- 
age from being destroyed, a sea-wall has 
been built in front of the city. 

The climate is unsurpassed by that of 
any large sea-port town in the United 
States — uniformity and dryness constitu- 
ting its chief claim to superiority. There 
is but little rain during the year — only 
about half that of the Eastern States. The 
mean temperature is 54 deg., the variation 
being but 10 deg. during the year. 

San Francisco, in early days, su tiered 
fearfully from tires. The city was almost 
completely destroyed at six different times 
during the years of 1849, '50, '51, and 1853. 
The destruction has been estimated in 
round numbers to exceed |26,000,000. The 
result of these fires has been that nearly all 
the buildings built since 1852 have been 
built of brick, stone, or iron — particularly 
in the business portion. The city has 
many magnificent private residences, and 
cosy little home cottages, ornamented with 
evergreens, creeping vines, and beautiful 
flowers. The yards or grounds are laid 
out very tastefully, with neat graveled 
walks, mounds, statues, ponds, and spark- 
ling fountains, where the " crystal waters 
flow." 

The first house was built in San Fran- 
cisco in i835. The place was then called 
" Yuba Buena" — changed to San Francisco 
in 1847, before the discovery of gold. The 
city is well built and regularly laid out 
north of Market street, which divides the 
city into two sections. South of this 
the streets have an eastern declination as 
compared with those running north. The 
city is situated in latitude 87 deg. 48 sec. 
north ; longitude, 120 deg. 27 min. west. 

The principal wharves are on the east- 
ern side of the city, fronting this made 
land. North Point has some gaod wharves, 
but from the business portion the steep 
grade of the city is a great objection. 

The city is amply supplied with schools, 
both pvvblic and private. There is no in- 
stitution of the city wherein the people 
take more interest and pride ; none, of the 
credit and honor of which they are more 



jealous. Some of the finest buildings ol 
the city were built for school purposes, the 
Denman and Lincoln school houses being 
the finest of the number, 

There are churches of all kinds, creeds, 
and beliefs, including several Chinese 
".Joss Houses." The Jewish synagogue is 
the finest among them, situated on Sutter 
street. 

The Newspaper, and Magazine, are 
the histories of the present, and the person 
who does not read them must be ignorant 
indeed. Calilornians are a reading people ; 
and he that comes nere to find fools brings 
his brain to a very poor market. 

There are in the city 65 newspapers and 
periodicals, thirteen of which ai-e daily. 
The dailies are the Alta Galiforniaii., the 
Bulletin, Morning Gall, Morning Ghioni- 
ele, Post, Examiner, Abend Post (German), 
Bemokrat {Grevmsin), Gourrifrde San Fran- 
cisco (French), Mail, Stock Exchange, Stock 
Report, and the Galifornia News Notes, 
illustrated. The Golden. Bra, and Spirit of 
the Times, are weekly literary and sporting 
papers. The Neics Le'ter, and the Argo- 
naut, are spicy weeklies. The Mining 
and Scientific Press, and the Pacific Mural 
Press, are first-class weekly journals in 
their specialties. Here, too, is published, 
the Journal of Commerce, the best pa- 
per of the kind on the I'acific Coast. The 
Coast Review, is the great insurance au- 
thor iy of the Pacific coast — monthly. 
Here, also, is Wentwortli's Resources of 
California, an invaluable journal. If 
among all these publications you can 
find nothing to suit yon— nothing new — 
why, then, surprise the Bible, by reading 
it, and you may profit by its teachings. 
The Markets of San Francisco are one 
of the features cf the city; those who never 
saw the fruit and vegetables of California 
should visit the markets. No other 
country can produce fruit in such pro- 
fusion and perfection. The grapes, peaches, 
pears, etc., on exhibition in the city mar- 
kets, represent the best productions of all 
parts of the State. 

"Feisco" Brevities — The new City 
Hall is on Market street. California street 
is the Wall street of the city. The Branch 
3I1NT of the United States is located in the 
new building, northwest corner Mission 
and 5th streets. The Post Office and 
Custom House are on Washington street. 
Merchants' Exchange Building is on 
California street. The Old Stock Ex- 
change is on Pine street ; the New Stock 



192 



CEOFUTT S NE"\V OVERLA>"D TOUPaST 



Exchange is iu Leidsdorff street. Horse 
ca-rsruii to all important points in the city; 
fare, live cents. Mission Bay is two miles 
south of the City Ilall. Market street is 
the Broadway of San Francisco, though 
Kearney street disjiule- the honor. 

The Palace Hotel is corner M arket and 
New Montgomery streets ; (see description, 
" Annex " No. 50,) the Baldwin Hotel, 
corner Powell and Market streets. The Cali- 
fornia Thealre is on Bush street, also the 
Bush street Theatre. The Baldwin (Thea- 
tre) is on the corner of Market and Powell 
streets. There are three Chinese Theatres, 
"where many of the " tricks that are vain," 
are perfoi med nightly, which few can undei'- 
stand, yet they are worJi one visit. 

Watek for the city's use is obtained from 
Pillarcitos Creek, 20 miles south ot the city, 
iu San Mateo county ; Lake; Honda, live 
miles souih, being used as a reservoir. Yet 
there are many wells, the water being ele- 
vated by wind-mills. 

The Lij!k.\ries are numerous. The 
Mercantile, on Bush street ; the Odd Fel- 
lows, on Montgomery street; the Me- 
chanics' Institute, on Post street; the What 
Cheer, at the " What Cheer House," and 
the Young Men's Christian Association, are 
the principal ones, open free to tourists 
upon application. Secret Okders are 
numerous in San Francisco — too numerous 
to note here. 

Scenery — The magnificent views of 
Cape Horn, on the Columbia River, 
Mt. Shasta, the Loop, Orange Orchard, 
Woman of thePeriod,and many others 
in this book, were photographed by 
C. E. Watkins. 227 Montgomery street, 
who has an enormous collection of 
views. The views of Mirror Lake, Ne- 
vada Falls, and many of those on the 
line of the Central Pacific, which we 
have engraved and are to be found in 
this book, were from photographs 
taken by Thos. Houseworth & Co , No. 
12 Montgomery Btreet,who have views, 
seemingly, of everything and every- 
body on the coast. 

The Mechanics' Pavilion fronts on 
the corner of Mission and Eighth 
streets. The Mechanics' Institute 
own the building and hold their fairs 
there. 

The Dry Dock, at Hunter's Point, 
six miles southeast, is 465 feet long, 
125 feet wide and 40 feet deej), cut in 
solid rock, at a cost of $1,200,000. 

Protrero Ship Yards are located at 



Protrero, and are reached by the city cars. 
All kinds of small craft for the coa?t service 
are built at ihese yards. 

Chin.a Town is situated on Sacramento, 
above Kearny; Dupont, between Sacra- 
mento and Washington streets, and Jack- 
son street, between Dupont and Kearny. 
These streets are occupied exclusively by 
Celestial shopkeepers, "Heathen Chinese." 

The Barbary Coast, a noted resort for 
thieves, cut-throats and the vilest of the 
vile, is situated on Pacific street, between 
Kearny and Dupont streets. We give the 
precise locality, so that our readers may 
keep away. Give it a " wide berth," as you 
value your life. 

Angel Island, three miles north rf the 
city, is a mile and a half iu length and 
three-quarters of a mile wide; altitude 771 
feet. On this island are quarries of brown 
and blue stone, which are extensively used 
in the city for building purposes. 

Goat 'Isl.and, or " Yerba Buena," two 
and a half miles east, nearly round, con- 
tains 350 acres; altitude, 340 feet. 

Alcatraz Island, a mile and a quarter 
north, is strongly fortitied. The summit is 
140 feet above tide, sui'rounded by a belt of 
batteries, which command the entrance to 
ihe harbor— a "key to the position." These 
islands are all owned hy the Government. 

Point Labose is six miles west. 

Fort Point is northwest from the City 
Hall, five miles at the south end of Golden 
Gate. It is the most heavilj^ fortified on 
the coast — on the plan of Fort Sumter, in 
South Carolina. 

Telegraph Hill, to the north, is 394 
feet high. 

Russian Hill is 360 feet high. 

Clay St. Hill is 37G feet high. 

The Twin Peaks, four miles southwest, 
rise 1,200 leet. The visitor can obtain 
frcm the summit of these peaks a fine view 
of the whole country for manj^ miles 
around the Golden Gate, and the Great 
Pacific Ocean. 

Ferry-boats I'un regularly between San 
Francisco and Oakland, Alameda, San 
Quentin, Birkley, Sancelito. 

Th general olhce of the " Central " and 
Southern Pacific railroad companies is 
cor. Townsend aiKl Fourth streets, en the 
south side of the city; several street car 
lines run by them. 

The Seal Rocks are six miles west, 
reached . _ a beautiful road. 

Steamers leave regularly for Vallejo, 26 
miles; Benicia, 30; Petaluma, 48; Santa 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



193 



Cruz, 76; Monterey, 100; Stockton, 110; 
Sacramento, 125; San Luis Obispo, 209; 
Eureka, 233; Crescent City, 280; Santa 
Barbary, 280; San Pedro, 364; San Diego, 
456; Portland, 642; Victoria, V. I., 753; 
Mazatlan, 1,480; Guaymas, 1,710; La Paz, 
1,802, Acapuln, 1,808: Sitka, 1,951 ; Hono- 
lulu, 2,090; l-anama, 3,2o0; Yokohama, 
4,764; Hiogo, 5,104; Auckland, 5,907; 
Shangliae, 5,964; Hong Kong, 6,384; Sid- 
ney, Australia, 7,183; Melbourne, 7,7C0 
miles. 

The Plaza, Washington, Union, Co- 
lumbia, LoBos, Hamilton, and Alamo 
Squares^ and Yerba Buena, Beuna Vista, 
and Golden Gate Parks, are all small, ex- 
cept the last, which contains 1,100 acres, 
but very little improved. The Oakland 
and Alameda parks are largely patronized 
by San Franciscans, who reach them by 
ferry-boat. But what the city is deficient 
in parks, is made up by the Woodward 
Gardens, for an account of which see 
Annex No. 44. 

Ocean Steamships— for sailingdays and 
other particulars, see Annex No. 27. 

For general items of interest, see Annex 
No. 28. 



Here we are, on the golden shores of 
• ilifornia. We have come with the 
iveler Irom the far East to the far West ; 
^■•om the Atlantic to the Pacific — from 
where the sun i-ises out of the waters to 
where it sets in the waters, covering an ex- 

I of country hundreds of miles in width, 

.x^ii recording a telegram of the most im- 
portant places and objects of interest — 
brief necessarily, but to the point — and we 
feel certain that a pardon would be granted 
'iy the reader, if we now bade this country 

'irewell, and started on our return trip, 
^ut, how can we V It is a glorious country, 

'> let us make a fow 

Excursions, 

-iiyfive, and then we will start on our trip 

owards Sunrise, via the Gouthern Route. 

jfiowfe^.— To the oEALRocKS,six miles 

vest; procure a carriage. Early in the 

.lorning is the best time to start, as the 

oast breeze commences about eleven 

I'clock, afier which it will not be so 

jleasaut. We will be fashionable — get up 

early — and drive out to the " Cliff House" 

for breakfast. 

Within the first two miles and a half, we 

pass a number of cemeteries ; some of them 

contain beautiful monuments and are very 

13 ^ 



tastefully ornamented. The principal ones 
are the Lone Mountain, Laurel Hill and 
Odd Fellows. In the Lone Mountain 
cemetery, on our right, under that tall and 
most conspicuous monument, which can 
be seen for many miles away, rests the re- 
mains of the lamented Senator Broderick, 
who fell a victim of the " Code Duello," 
through jealousy and political strife. Near 
by are the monuments of Starr King, 
Baker, and many others, whose lives and 
services have done honor to the State. On 
the summit of Lone Mountain, to the left, 
stands a lar^e cross, which is a noted land- 
mark, and can be seen irom far out to sea. 

In a little valley, close to the road, we 
pass, on the right, surrounded by a high 
fence, one of the most noted Race Courses 
in the State. 

From the city the road leads over a suc- 
cession of sand-hills; from the summit of 
some of these we catch an occasional 
glimpse of the '^Big Drink'''' in the distance, 
the view seeming to improve as we gain 
the summit of each, until the last one is 
reached, when there, almost at our feet, 
stretching away farther than the eye can 
penetrate, lies the great Pacific Ocean, in 
all its mysterious majesty. We will be 
sure to see numerous ships, small craft 
and steamers, the latter marked by a long 
black trail of smoke. They are a portion 
of the world's great merchant marine, 
which navigate there mighty waters, going 
and coming, night and day, laden with the 
treasure, and the productions and repre- 
sentatives of every nation, land and clime. 

Close on our right is the Golden Gate, 
with the bold dark bluffs of the northern 
peninsula beyond. The "Gate" is 02:>en, 
an invitation to all nations to enter — but 
beside them are the " Boys in Blue," with 
ample fortifications, surmounted by the 
"Bull Dogs" of "Uncle Sam," standing 
ready to close them at the first signal of 
danger. 

Our descent from the summit of the last 
hill seems rapid, as we are almost lost in 
admiration of the magnificence spread out 
befoi-e us, until we arrive at the 

Cliff House — The st';anger on the road, 
and at the Cliff" House, would think it a 
gala day — something unusual, such grand 
"turn-outs," and so many. The fact is, 
this "Drive" is to the San Franciscan 
what the " Central Park " is to the New 
Yorker — the "style" of the former is not 
to be outdone by the latter. The drive out 
is always a cool one, and the first thing 



194 



ciiofutt's xeav overland tourist 



usually clone on arriving is to take a drink — 
water — and then, order breakfast — and such 
nice little private breakfast rooms! Oh, 
these Califoruians know how to tickle your 
fancy. 

Hark! " Tci-Hoi, Toi-Hoi, Toi:' What 
the deuce is thatv Those hearing uSySmile. 
We do not ask, but we conclude it must 
be a big herd of healthy donkeys passing, 
when two gentlemen enter from the rear, 
and one of them says: "Colonel, {there is 
no lower grade in California) 1 will bet 
you 50 shares in the Ophir or Virginia 
Consolidated, that General Grant, that big 
seal on the top of the rock, will weigh 
3,000 ]iounds." We did not stop to hear 
more, but rushed out the back door on to a 
long veranda running the whole length of 
the house, which is situated on a project- 
ing clift', 200 feet above, and almost over- 
hanging the waters, when " Yoi-Hoi, Yoi- 
Hoi, Toi " — and there were our donkeys, 
500 yards away, laying on, scrambling uji, 
plunging of^, hghtiug, and sporting around 
three little locky islands. The largest of 
these islands is called "Santo Domingo." 
It is quite steep; few can climb it. A 
sleek, dark-looking seal, which they call 
Ben. Butler, has at times attempted it; but 
away up on the very top — basking in the 
sun, with an occasional " Yoihoi, h'^yi"" — 
lies General Grant, the biggest ichopper 
of them all. We knew him at the tirst 
sight. He had something in his mouth, 
and looked wise. Often Avhen the din of 
his fellow seals below become fearful, 
who are ever quarreling in their efforts to 
climb up, his "-Toi-hoi, Boyi"" can be 
heard above them all— which, in seal 
language, means, ''Let us have peaces 
Sea fowls in large numbers are hovering 
on and around these rocks. Thej', too, are 
very ch^ilteriug, but we have no time to 
learn their language, as here comes a 
steamer bound for China. (See illustration, 
page 19.5) It steams in close to the islands, 
and we think we can discern some of our 
fellow travelers "across the continent" 
among the passengers. They are on a trip 
" around the world," and are waving their 
compliments to the General on the top of 
the rock. 

Just around that projecting point of land 
to the northwest are Fakallones Islands, 
seven in number, thirty miles distant, in 
the Pacific Ocean, totally barren of every- 
thing but seals, sea-lions, and water-fowls. 
These are very numerous. Many of the 
seals will weigh from 2,000 to 3,000 lbs.. 



and are quite tame (see illustration, page 
63), as they have never been disturbed 
by hunters; the birds — and they are 
legion — which inhabit these islands, lay 
millious of eggs every year, which, until 
1871, were gathered and sold in the San 
Francisco markets. The islands are all 
rocks; the highest peak is surmounted 
with a light-house of the first order, 340 
feet above the water. 

Breakfast is called; being fashionable, 
we take another— water — and, while eating 
a hearty meal, learn that these seals are 
protected by the laws of the State against 
capture, and something of their habits; 
then pay our bill, and the ostler his de- 
tainer, take our seat, and whirl around 
over abroad winding road, which is blasted 
out of the rocky bluff on our left to the 
sandy beach below. 

Kight here we meet Old Pacific Ocean 
himself — ftice to face — near enough to 
'"shake." He is a good fellow when he is 
himself — p)ac^jic — but he drinks a great 
deal, ]jerhaps too much ; but certain it is 
he gets very noisy at times — very turbu- 
lent. In driving along the beach, we come 
to one of the evidences of his fearful 
wrath. Do you see that ship laying on her 
side ? 

One night, after a big carousal, when it 
was said Old Pacific had been drinking a 
great deal — mnre than usual — and was in 
a towering passion, he drove this ship 
up almost Jiigh and dry on the beach, 
where you see her. Not content with that, 
he chased the escaping occupants far into 
the sand hills, throwing spars, masts, and 
rigging after them. 

Thank you! We don't want any of that 
kind of pacific in ours. 

We will now keep our eye on Old Pa- 
cific, and drive along down the beach, by 
several fine hotels, and then turn into the 
sand-hills to the left, passing over a high 
point, where some fine views can be had 
of the surrounding country, and around to 
the old Mission Dolores. Here is food for 
the curious. But we cannot afford to stop 
here long, as Boreas is getting waked up, 
and is sliding the sand over the bluffs 
after us — rather disagreeable. This Mis- 
sion was founded in 1775, by Spanish mis- 
sionaries, who, for over 60 years, wielded a 
mighty influence among the native Cali- 
foruians (Indians). In its most prosperous 
days, the Mission possessed 76,000 head of 
stock cattle, 2,920 horses, 820 mules, 
.'9,000 sheep, 2,000 hogs, 456 yoke of work- 



AN^D PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



195 




196 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLA^rD TOURIST 



ing oxen, 180,000 bushels of wheat and 
barley, besides $75,000 worth of merchan- 
dize and hard cash. 

The greater portion of all this wealth 
was confiscated by the Mexican Govern- 
ment, so that when California became a 
portion of the United States little re- 
mained, except these old adobe walls and 
grounds, together with about 600 volumes 
of old Spanish books, manuscripts and 
records. 

Returning to the city, we pass many 
objects of interest well worthy of notice, 
and through a portion of the city rapidly 
building up, and in a substantial manner. 

Route 2. — At the wharf, beside Oak- 
land Ferry, we will find one of the large 
steamboats that run in connection with the 
Vallejo route; let us step on board, and 
note what can be seen. Leaving the wharf, 
our course is north, with the Oakland 
wharf, the route by which we come — far to 
the right, as also Goat Island. On our 
left is Alcatraz, with its heavy fortifications, 
beyond which is the Golden Gate; a little 
farther to the northward, is the Coast 
Range, with Mt. Tamalpais as the high- 
est peak; elevation, 2,604 feet. 

Looking back, we have a beautiful view 
of the city; a little further on, Oakland, 
West Oakland, and Berkley on the right, 
with the Contra Costa Mountains for a 
back-ground. Now we pass — on the left — 
Angel Island, San Qaintin, and San Rafael, 
in the order written. Now comes the 
"Grandfather," a huge red rock on the 
left, above the "Old Man and Woman." 

Continuing on, we come to the " Two 
Brothers," on which is located San Pablo 
light-house; beyond these are the "Two 
Sisters," making seven rocky islands. 
Opposite the light-house, on the right, is 
Point Pedro, which projects out from the 
mountains on the east, far to the westward, 
as lliough to bar our progress. 

Rounding this "point," we enter Sin 
Pablo Bay, which spreads out to the right 
arid left for many miles. Away to the far 
right can be seen a portion of the town of 
Berkley, and further north, San Pablo, 
through wliich runs the regular overland 
trains via" Martinez, as noted on pages 
186-187-189. 

Passing on, we come in front of the 
Straits of Carquinez, through which flows 
the Sacramento River — as noted on page 
187. We have left a broad expanse of 
water on our left, over which steamers run 



to Petalum I — as noted in route No. 3. 

Entering through a narrow channel, 
with Mare Island close on our left, we 
land at the wharf at Vallejo, take the cars 
of the California Pacific, and roll along to 
the Napa Valley Junction, where we were 
before, while making a trip over the 
"Vallejo Route." (See page 183.) 

Napa Junction — by this route it is 
33.55 miles from San Francisco, and 52.87 
from Sacramento. Leaving the Junction 
we roll up the beautiful valley 3.74 miles to 

Thompson — a signal station, passed by 
our train, as also many groves of j'Oung 
trees on our right, and beauty on every 
side. From Thompson it is 4.12 miles to 

Napa City — Although this is Napa 
City, county seat of Napa county, on Napa 
River, and the Napa Valley railroad, the 
people by no means look sleepy, but as 
bright as though they had just come out of 
a nap, or from a "nip." 

This is a lively town, of about 5,000 
inhabitants, at the head of tide-water navi- 
gation for vessels and steamers of light 
draught; supporting one daily paper, the 
Reporter, and one weekly, the Record. 

It is in the midst of a country noted 
for its mild and genial climate, the great 
fertility of its soil, and its many well- 
cultivated vineyards — producing annually 
over 300,000 gallons of wine and brandy. 
It is completely hedged in by various 
spurs of the Coast Range. The valley is 
about 40 miles in length, by an average 
width of four miles. This county is much 
distinguished for its meaicinal springs, the 
most noted of which are the Soda Springs, 
White Sulphur, and the Calistoga. Near 
all these springs huge hotels have been 
erected, which are crowded in sum- 
mer by residents of this State, as well as 
tourists from the East, who visit them for 
health and pleasure. 

At the head of this valley — in plain 
view — is located Mt. St. Helena, an extinct 
volcano, which rises 3,243 feet above tide. 
The whole section around-about bears evi- 
dences of the volcanic upheaval that once 
lit up thic whole country. 

Near Napa City is located one of the two 
State Insane Asylums— we found the other 
near Stockton — completed at a cost of 
over $1,000,000, and capable of accommo- 
dating 800 persons. It is of biick, and 
stands on an eminence about a mile and a 
half from the city, to the east. Four first- 
class seminaries and colleges — for the edu- 
cation of girls and boys — besides many 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



la? 



public schools, are at Napa, so educational 
advantages are all right. 

Among the good things at Napa, are the 
Palace and Kevcre hotels, the tir^t named, 
a very large house near the depot. 

The Soda Springs are situated about six 
miles to the eastward, on the side of the 
mountain. The water from these springs 
has become quite celebrated ; a large 
amount of it being bottled annually, and 
shipped to all parts of the State. 

Stages leave Napa daily for Sonoma, 12 
mileswest, continuing to Santa Rosa, 12 
miles further; also to Monticello, 25 miles; 
Knoxville, 50 miles northeast. 

Leaving Napa, we cross Napa Creek, 
and roll along through rows of locust 
trees, planted on each side of the road, 
and on the right are to be seen a few mam- 
moth cactus pads, close to the track. A 
run of 5.1 miles and we come to 

Oak Knoll— the country residence of 
Mr Woodward, of Woodward Gardens, 
San Francisco. The farm contains 1,000 
acres, nearly all under cultivation. Of 
this farm 130 acres are devoted to fruit and 
nuts of many varieties. 

Crossing Dry Creek, we come to a black- 
berry ranche of twelve acres, as many 
people in this valley make a specially of 
raising blackberries. Oaks, manzanitas, 
and pines, now appear in peaces. 

From Oak Knoll, it is 3.52 miles to 

YouTSViLLE — Here, on the left is a large 
wine cellar, built of brick; near by are 
large vineyards; further, comes Mason's 
vineyard of 100 acres, mostly raisin grapes, 
which are prepared and packed here for 
market. A run of 3.39 miles and we 
are at 

Oakville— Opposite, on the side of the 
mountain, can be seen a quicksilver mine, 
marked by a red formation. 

EuTHEKFORD — is the next station, 1.95 
miles from the last. Fine residences line 
the foot of the mountain on each side, the 
whole length of the vallej% many com- 
pletely embowered in shade and fruit trees 
of several varieties. 

Passing on, we find another large wine 
cellar on the right, and 1.94 mi es from 
Rutherford comes Bello— a signal station 
with vineyards and another big wine 
cellar. 

Passing along through this beautiful 
valley, Avith huge moss-covered oaks, vine- 
yards and fields on each side, 2.07 miles is 

St. Helena — This is a town of 
about 1,200 pi'pulation, on the western 



side of the valley, in the midst of vine, 
yards; in fact, there are vineyards and 
orchards in every direction, some embrac- 
ing hundreds of acres. Near by is the gr"at 
vineyard and orange orchard of King. 

The town has many neat residences, 
and one weekly paper, the Star. The 
AVhite Sulphur Springs are situated about 
two miles west of the town, to which 
" busses " run regularly. The White Sul- 
phur Hotel is the place to stop. 

Leaving St. Heleoa, we come to a farm 
of 500 acres, 115 acres of which are in a 
vineyard. Here, on the left, is another 
large wine cellar, near the road. This val- 
ley, particularly this portion, is called 
" safe land," meaning thereby that it can 
always be depended upon for a croj), as the 
fall of rain is suthcicnt every year to raise 
a crop, and irrigation is unnecessary. 
Barro, a signal station, is 1.98 milea 
further, where the valley is about two miles 
in width, with vineyardc extending away 
up on the side of the hills. From Barro it 
is 2.1 miles to B.\le, another side-track of 
little interest to the tourist, 1.53 miles from 
Walnut Grove, still another small signal 
station. Oaks are thick along these bot- 
toms, and present a beautiful appearance. 
Occasionally we will see the madrone and 
a few Monteray cypress, with some eu- 
calyptus trees, 

Napa Creek, which has been along the 
road on either one side or the other, the 
whole length of the valley, has dwindled 
down to nothing. 

Continuing on, up through beauty oa 
every hand, 2.86 miles from the last station, 
we arrive at the end of the road at 

Calistoga — which is the most popular of 
all the summer resorts, near the bay. The 
springs are just east of the depot, the water 
of which is hot enough to boil an egg in 
two minutes, and are said to possess great 
medicinal qualities, having already won a 
high local reputation. In the town, every 
accommodation in the way of hotels, etc., 
is afibrded to the numerous visitors who 
annually gather here to drink and bathe in 
the invigorating water, enjoy the unsur. 
passed hunting and fishing in the vicinity, 
and above all,"to breathe the pure air of the 
charming little valley, while viewing the 
beautiful mountain scenery. 

The population of the town is about 500; 
the principal hotels are the Magnolia and 
Cosmopolitan; the paper which is sup- 
posed to furnish " all the news " is a weekly, 
called the Calistogiaii. Calistoga is sit^ 



198 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



uated at the head of the valley, 68.15 miles 
from Saa Francisco, surrounded on three 
sides with the mountain spurs of the Coast 
Range, as well as by vineyards and 
orchards; wiue cellars — well, they are 
thicker here than quartz mills at Virginia 
City. 

The Petrified Forest — is distant 
about five miles, and consists of about forty 
acres of ground, covered more or less with 
petrified trees, some very large, eleven feet 
in diameter at the stump. These trees are 
nearly all down, some nearly covered with 
earth and volcanic matter, while the ground 
sparkles with silica. They will well re- 
pay a visit from the curious. 

Stage lines are numerous from Calistoga ; 
first, to the northward, it is 17 miles to 
Middleton ; 20 to Harbern Sj^rings ; 20 
to Guenoc; 35 to Lower Lake, and 45 
to Sulphur Banks, where that suspicious 
mineral can be shoveled up by the 
cart-load. To the northeast it is 78 miles 
to Pine Flat; 26 miles to Geysers; 26 
miles to Glenbrook ; 41 to Kelseyville ; 
48 to LakePoiut, situated on the west shore 
of Clear Lake, a fine resort at all seasons, 
but particularly in summer. To the south- 
west it is five miles to the Petrified Forest, 
eight to Mark West Springs and 26 to Santa 
Rosa. 

The celebrated Foss, with his stage, 
leaves Calistoga daily, over a mountain 
road unsurpassed for grand scenery, en 
route to 

TuE Geysers— The.se springs, with llieir 
taste, smell and noise, are fearful, loondtr- 
ful. We have been told that " California 
beats the devil." May be, but he cannot be 
far from this place. Here ai-e over 200 
mineral .^-prings, tlie waters of which are 
hot, cold, sweet, sour, iron, .soda, alum, sul- 
phur — well, you should be suited w^ith the 
varieties of sulphur! There is white sul- 
phur and bh\ck sulphur, j-ellow sulphur 
antl red sulphur, and how many more 
sulphurs, deponent saith not. But if 
there are any other kinds wanted, and ihoy 
are not to be seen, call for them, they are 
there, together with all kinds of contending 
elements, roaring, thundering, hissing, bub- 
bling, spurting and steaming, with a smell 
that would disgust any Chinese dinner- 
party. We are unable to describe all these 
wonderful things, but will do the next best 
thing. (See large illu.slration No. 17 and 
description Iu^AknexNo. 45, page 1S4. ) 

The Geyser Hotel, seen through the 
foliage in the picture, is tlie only house 



which provides accommodations at the 
springs. Steam baths and other kinds will 
here be found ample, and board $14 per 
week. In the region of the springs, are 
mines of quicksilver, and some silver mines 
that are being worked to advantage. 

Returning to San Francisco, we start on 
Route 3. 
8an Francisco and North 
Faciiic Railroad. 

General Oflices — San Francisco. 

p. Donahue President. 

Abthue Hughes General Manager. 

P. J. McGlynn Gen. Pass, and Ticket Agent. 

Repairing to the wharf, a short distance 
north of the Oakland Ferry, we board the 
steamer Donahue, belonging to tliis road, 
and proceed up the bay, as in route No. 2, 
until Pedro Point is passed, when the 
course is more to the westward, to the 
mouth of Petaluma Creek, a very crooked 
stream, with salt marshes on each side. 
About six miles from the mouth ot the 
creek, on the right, we come to a double- 
front cottage, which, when we passed up 
here in January, 1878, stood high and dry, 
above the marsh. Several da3S alter, on 
tlie downward trip, the water covered the 
whole bottom in one broad sheet, and was 
apparently oh the first floor of the build- 
ing. When it is understood that the party 
wlio settled here did so to demonstrate 
that he could reclaim the land by an 
original system of dykes, the joke will be 
apparent,'and to him an aqueous joke. 

From the mouth of the creek, it is about 
ten miles to 

Donahue — named for the President 
of the road. It is situated on the east 
bank of the creek, close in beside the 
blutt's, or Sonoma Hills, 34 miles from 
San Francisco. It is simply a landing for 
the boat where passengers take the cars, 
which stand under a'huge, long building 
on tlie end of tlie wharf. 

Leaving the wharf, the Sonoma Hotel is 
close on die right, almost on the water's 
edge. Passing along beside the rolling 
hills, which are cultivated to their summit, 
one mile brings us to Lakeville, not a 
very pretentious place, but from which a 
stage leaves daily for the eastward, over 
the hills, nine miles to 

Sonoma— This town is a quiet, old place, 
founded in 18 JO, and contains about 600 
inliabitants. Many of the old original 
adobe buildings are still standing in a 



AND I'ACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



199 



good state of preservation. Sonoma lias 
the honor of being the place where the 
old "Bear Flag"^vas first raised. It is 
situaled in the Sonoma Vallej', one of the 
richest in the State, and U celebrated for 
its vineyards and the excellence of its 
wines. Sonoma is not without its railroad, 
" It once liad the " rrismodial " — single 
rail — but this bas given way to tbe Ron- 
oma Valley, whicli runs regular trips in 
connection with the steamer "Herald" 
to and from San Francisco and Sonoma 
daily — distance about 43 miles. 

But to return to the railroad, which we 
left at Lakeville. Rolling hills are on our 
right, mostly cultivatt d to their summits, 
and a few scattering live-oaks; on the left, 
Petaluma Creek, salt marshes, and in the 
distance a high ridge of the Coast Range. 
Seven miles from Lakeville is 

Petaluma — the largest town in Sonoma 
county, with a poimlation of about 4,500. 
It contains some fine large business blocks, 
two good hotels — the American and the 
Washington. The Courier and the Jour- 
nal Argus are two weekly papers, pub- 
lished here. The town is on the west side 
of the road, situated on rolling hills, by 
the side of which runs Petaluma Creek, 
which is navigable for liglit-draft boats 
at high tide. Upon and around these 
rolling hills are some beautiful residences, 
ornamented with great numbers of tiees, 
among wliich are the oak, eucalyptus, 
]\Ionterey and Italian cypress, Norfolk 
Island pine, and others, presenting, in 
connection Avith the mountains and sur- 
rounding scenery, a view mo.-t charming 
and deliirhtful. 

Stages leave Petaluma daily for Sonoma, 
thirteen miles east. We understand the 
Railroad Company have a track graded ! 
and nearly ready for the iron, that runs 
south and west from Petaluma, along the . 
base of the moun ain to San Rafael, where i 
a crossing will be made to San Francisco. \ 

Leaving Petaluma, we cross Pe'aluma I 
Greek and roll along three miles to 
Ely's, a fiag station, amid rolling hills, 
at the head oT Petaluma Valley. One mile 
furtlier, we come to a beautiful grove of 
black oaks on a high hill to the right, and 
we aie at Penn's Grove. Here we cross 
the divide and enter the Russian River 
Va'ley. Goodwin's is half a Hiile further, 
a small flag station two and a half miles 
from P.\ge's, another one of the same im- 
portance. Here commences the Cotate 
Grant, which takes in the hills on each 



side, four leagues in extent. Two and a 
half miles from Page's, we are at Cotate 
Ranche, a flag s'ation for the ranche near 
by. At many stations along are to be seen 
cattle pens and shutes, indicating that 
raising and fattening cattle for market is 
one of the industries of the people in this 
section. Here we find many drooping, 
moss-covered oaks. Three miles more and 
we are at the banner town of 

Santa Rosa— population, 4,000. This 
is the county seat of Sonoma countv, 
situated in the midst of one of the richest 
valleys in the State. It is fifteen miles from 
Petaluma, fifteen miles from Healds- 
burgh, thiity-three miles from Cloverdale, 
and fifty-seven miles from San Francisco. 
No city on the Pacific coast has increased 
faster within the last five years than S mta 
Rosa, and that increase has been marked 
by substantial brick business blocks, large 
manufactories, and beautiful private resi- 
dences. 

The city has water- works, gas-house, 
railroads, and all the modern improve- 
ments. Of newspapers, there are one daily, 
the Democrat; and one weekly, the Tims. 
The Grand, and the Occidental, are the 
two principal ho'els. 

The streets c f tlie city are broad, set out 
witli eucalypti and other varieties of trees; 
these, with the surrounding country, aflbrd 
many very beautiful drives. 

Stages leave Santa Rosa daily for Mark- 
AYest Springs, ten miles east; Petrified 
Forest, fifteen miles (see description, page 
ISJh); and Calistoga, '^'0 miles; to the west, 
Sebastopol is seven miles. Average fare to 
these places is ten cents per mile. The 
valley of Santa Rosa, in which the town is 
si ua'ted, Russian River Valley, and Peta- 
luma Valley, really one, are 60 miles in 
length, with an average width of aliout six 
miles. 

Sonoma county is a very large one, ex- 
tend ng to the Pacific Ocean on the west. 
In the western ])oi1ion are located immense 
forests of redwood limber, wliich we shall, 
note hereafter. V'neyards are numerous 
as well as orchards where immense cjuan- 
tities of oranges, lemons, plums limes, 
apples, English walnuts, almonds, apricots, 
and other f uits and nuts are raised for 
market There are nearly 7,000 acres in 
vineyard — 5,000,000 vines — which iiroduce 
annually full 2,500,000 gallons of wine, and 
35,000 gallons of brandy. Pomegranite 
trees do quite well, and never fail a crop. 
All the lands in this county are classed as 



200 



CPOFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



"safe lands " , owing lo their proximity to 
the ocean the rain-tall is abundant for all 
purposes. 

Darying, is an important industry, yield- 
ing, from official reports, 2,750,000 pounds 
of butter, 400,000 pounds of cheese, and 
milk— not enough figures; the amount of 
milk marketed is not recorded. 

In mines, Sonoma is well represented; 
gold, copper, and quicksilver are the prin- 
cipal metals. In grain, the product figures 
up over 600,000 bushels of wheat; 30,000 
bushels of barley ; 250,000 of oats ; 8,500 
bushels of corn, and many other kinds of 
grain in proportion. As for mineral 
. springs, why, Sonoma county is the home 
of all kinds of springs, chief of which are 
the Geysers, Skaggs, Mark West, and the 
White Sulphur. 

Four miles from Santa Rosa comes 

Fulton — a small town at the junction of 
the Fulton and Gurueyville Branch. The 
stations on this branch, are: IVIeacham's, 
two miles; Laguna, four miles further; 
Forestville, another two miles; then two 
miles to Greenvalley; three miles more 
to KoRBEL's, and another three to 

Gurneyvillp: — in the midst of a forest 
of redwood. Along this branch road, and 
at Gurneyville, are located six sawmills, 
which cut 150,000 feet of lumber daily. 
One of the largest of these redwood trees 
measured 344 feet high, and 18 feet in 
diameter. The town of Gurueyville is 
situated on Russian River, on what is 
known as " Big Bottom," in the finest red- 
wood forest in the State. 

Leaving Fulton and crossing Mark West 
Creek, the first station on the main line is 
two miles distant, called JNIark West — 
but our tiain will not stop, unless signaled. 
The valley along here is ten miles in width. 
Three miles further comes 

Windsor — a small place four miles 
from Grant, a flag station which is two 
miles from 

Heraldsburg — reached just after cross- 
ing the Russian River, on the north bank 
of which it is situated. The town contains 
a population of about 2,0(i0. Fifteen miles 
from Santa Rosa, and 73 from San Fran- 
cisco, is Russian Valley, in which the 
town is located, noted for its great yield of 
wheat, and the extraordinary quickness of 
its soil, producing potatoes, peas, and many 
other vegetables w.tbin 05 days from the 
time the seed is planted. TheBussian Biver 
Flag^ and the IJnterpnse, are weekly pa- 
pers, published here. The tourist will 



find excellent hunting and fishing near by, 
with ample hotel accommodations. 

From Heaklsburg the valley gradually 
narrows, and four miles further brings us 
to Litton's Springs, a signal station, near 
where are located the springs of the same 
name. Four miles further is 

Geyserville — Here stages leave for 
Skagg's Springs — a popular resort — situ- 
ated at the side of the mountain, at the 
head of Dry Creek Valley, about eight 
miles west. Truett's is six miles further, 
another flag station, four miles from the 
end of the road, at 

Cloverdale — This town contains a 
population of about 5U0, with two hotels, 
the United States, and the Cloverdale, and 
one weekly newspaper, the Heics. The 
town nestles in at the mountain base, at 
the head of the Russian River Valley, and 
is 55 miles from Donahue, and "JO miles 
from San Francisco, being a point from 
which several stage lines radiate, for the 
noithern and surrounding country. 

Stages — four and six horse ■ — leave 
ClovtMdale daily, for the Geysers, 16 miks 
distant, over one of the finest mountain 
roads in the State. It is built on a uniform 
grade of four feet to the hundred. The 
owners of this line — Van Arnam 6c Ken- 
nedy — are old "knights of the whip," 
drive themselves, and often make the trip 
in one and a half hours. The fare for 
the round trip is $4.50. For description of 
tlie Geysers, see Annex No. 45, page 
184, and the lar.cre illiistratioii. No. 17. 

Stages run north to Ukinli, the county 
seat of Mendocino county, — ol miles, where 
connections are made with all adjoining 
towns; also, to the northeast, to Ilopeland, 
on the Russian River, 16 miles; Hitdiland 
Springs, 23 miles; Kelseyville, 25 miles; 
Lakeport, o6 miles; Upper Lake, 42 miles; 
and BartlelSjiriugs — a great medical resort 
— 63 miles. To the northwest, they run to 
Boonville, 31 miles; North Fork, 50 miles; 
Navaro Ridge, 63 miles; Little River, 70 
miles; Salmon Creek, 73 miles; and Men- 
dicono City, 75 miles; average fare to 
all, ten cents per mile. 



Returning to San Francisco we take 

Xortli Pacific Coast Railroad. 

General Offices — San Francisco. 
Jno. W. DonKUTX . .President and Gen. Manager. 

David Nye Superintendent. 

F. B. Latham Gen'l Passenger and Ticket Ag't 

This road is a three-foot narrow gauge, 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



201 



built and equipped iu tlie best manner, 
traversing a section of the country very 
attractive to the tourist. It runs iu a north- 
westerly direction from San Quentin and 
Saucilito, on the west side of the bay, 
twelve miles distant. The road has two 
southern termini, which uuite at Junction, 
17 miles from San Francisco. The bay is 
crossed by ferry from Davis St.,. for Sau- 
cilito, and from San Quentin Ferry — 
Market St. wharf — for San Quentin. We 
will take the latter route, which for nearly 
ten miles will be the same as No. 2 ; then, 
the route will be more to the westward. 
When near the point of Angel Is. and, on 
the left, the little town of Saucilito can be 
seen nestling close in beside the mountain. 
Between Saucilito and Angel Island runs 
Raccoon Straits. Mt. Tamalpais now 
looms up away to the left. Neariug the 
shore, also on the left, is 

San Quentin — a noted place of sum- 
mer and winter resort. The resident tour- 
ists number from 600 to 1,000, their term 
of residence varying from six months to a 
life-time. The quarters for their accom- 
modation are furnished by the State, free of 
charge. The Lieutenant-Governor exer- 
cises personal supervision over the guests, 
assisted by many subordinates and a com- 
pany of soldiers. The guests come here, 
not of their own will, but through their 
folly, and we believe they would quit the 
place, if they could. By law it is known 
as the State Prison. The buildings are of 
brick, large, and readily dlstingmshed, on 
the point to the left of the landing. Chang- 
ing for the cars, we glide along on the edge 
of the bay, with oak and shrub covering 
the lolling hills on the IcO, one and a-haif 
miles, and arrive at 

San Rafael — the county seat of Marin 
county; population, about 3,000. It was 
settled in 1817 by the Jesuit missionaries. 
It is situated iu a beautiful little valley, 
on low rolling hills in view of the bay 
and San Francisco, and of late has become 
a thriving suburban town, ' 

The town contains several good hotels, 
and two weekly pajiers, the Herald and the 
Journal. Along the streets, and around 
the private residences, are many shade 
trees, among which are the blue gum, oak, 
Monterey cypress, spruce and pine, which 
present a beautiful appearance. Proceed- 
iuo; through the town two miles, we reach 
the 

Junction— Here connects the branch 
track from Saucilito; let us digress long 



enough to come up on that route. Leaving 
Davis St. Ferry, in San Francisco, the 
course is almost due west for six miles to 

Saucilito — a small town situated close 
in beside the mountains of the Coast 
Range, coutaing a population of about 300. 
On the trip across the bay, a beautiful view 
can be had of the northwestern portion of 
San Francisco, Alcatraz, the Golden Gate, 
and the forts located there. At Saucilito 
we take the cars and soon come 
to the shops belonging to the Railroad 
Compai J'; three miles further, Lyford's , 
another 'mile, the Summit; two more, 
across an arm of the bay, is Corte jVIa- 
DERA; two miles further 

Tamalpais — Here saddle horses can bo 
procured for a ride up to the summit of the 
mountain, 2,604 feet, from which the 
tinestviewcanbe had of the Pacilic Ocean, 
San Francisco, and San Pablo Bays, and 
the surrounding country, that can be ob- 
tained at any point. The distance is about 
eight miles. From Tamalpais station it is 
two miles to the Junction. From Sau- 
cilito the route has been one of beauty. In 
almost every nook of the mountain-side 
are residences surrounded with all that 
money and good taste can provide to make 
them beautiful and attractive homes. 

Leaving the Junction, after 1.5 miles 
conies the side-track of Fairfax, sur- 
rounded by rolling hills, covered with an 
eternal verdure of green. Curving to the 
right, look ! away up there to the left — see 
our road! Can we get there? Up, up we 
go, through a tunnel, and roll around the 
iiead of the little valley, and then to the 
left we can look away down and see the 
road up which we passed only a few 
moments ago. Keeping around on the 
southern slope of the hills, with an awful 
chasm on the left, beyond are high mouu' 
tains upon the sides of which can be teen 
an occasional huge redwood tree. 

Curving around again to the right, up 
another litile valley, our road again ap- 
pears far up on the opposite side, and 
again the head of the valley is reached; 
the curve to the left is again made, and 
down, far below, is the road bed. There 
are two " Cape Horns," only not as high 
as Cape Horn on the Central Pacific. The 
scenery is very beautiful. 

Climbing up, see, on the right, the 
wagon road to Mt. Tamalpais, under 
which is the tunnel through which we 
pass; altitude, 565 feet; length, 1,250 feet. 
Beyond the tunnel, the grade descends, 



202 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



curving around on tlie side of the hills, 
down into a little valley tinough which 
runs the San Geron mo Creek. Here we 
find the madrono tree, (see Annex, No. 
8, pa^e 164) and many oaks with droop- 
ing, moss-covered Ijoughs. 

8ix and a half miles from Fairfax, we 
come to NiCASio, a small station with an 
altitude of 370 feet. The mountains, on 
the left, are covered with a dense growth of 
trees, of many varieties, among which are 
ledwood, pine, Douglas spruce, madrone, 
lind buckeye shrubs. PassuigLAGUNiTAS, a 
i?mall station, the road enters a narrow 
canyon, down which we run, with the red- 
wood towering far above; pass the old 
powder mill and extensive pic-nic grounds 
on the right, whicli are visited in the sum- 
mer by thousands from fSan Francisco — 
on, past a big dam, and we arrive at 

Taylorsville— This is a small station, 
named for a Mr. Taylor, who establisiied 
here the ^irst paper mill on the Pacific 
Coast, known as the " Pioneer Paper Mill." 
The canyon is narrow, with some tall 
redwoods along the creek, and on the side 
of the mountain t(j the left. Opposite, the 
country is rolling with few trees — some- 
thing of a dairy country. 

TocoLOMA— comes next, three miles 
from Taylor's. Here a stage line runs to 
the town of Olema, two miles to the south, 
over the ridge, and also to Bolinas, four- 
teen miles distant. Passing on by milk 
ranches, crossing bridges, through deep 
cuts, over high embankments, curving 
around the side of the mountain on the 
left, the train comes out into a little valley, 
and 4.5 miles from the last station, and 
38.5 miles from San Francisco, stops at 

Olema St.\tion — Th's is an eating 
station, the only one on the road. Trdns 
stop twenty minute-. Stages for BoHnas, 
south thirteen miles, leave 6Ke>y daj', exctpt 
wtek days. 

Leaving, the route is more to the north- 
ward, with Bolinas Bay over the hills to the 
left. The timber to the right has entirely dis- 
appea ed, and there is but little on the left, 
with very little cultivated land. We are 
now approaching a section which is almost 
entirely devoted to dairying. Soon we 
come to Tomales Bay, a portion- of which 
is crossed on a long pile bridge, where are 
extensive beds of planted oysters, the 
boundaries of which are marked by poles. 
Ducks are very abundant, and white peli- 
cans can often be seeq as well as wild 
geese. 



This bay is about twenty miles in 
length, with an average width of one mile. 
Our train runs along on the edge of this 
bay, arouml rocky points, Ihrougl; spurs 
of the bluffs, and across little iuik'ts for 
about sixteen miles, where the road turns 
sharp 1o the right, up an arm of the ba3\ 
In this distance we find the following 
stations: Wharf Point, three miles from 
Olema jNIilleiiton, two miles further, 
and M.\JisnALLS, nine more; then comes 

Hamlet — Here the regular passenger 
trains mee'. All these sidetrack stations 
along the bay are for the accommodation 
of the dairymen living near, who ship 
large cpiantilies of milk and butter to San 
Francisco daily. 

Tomales Point is on the opposite side of 
the bay, which is here only about three 
and a half miles from the ocean. 

Turning to tlie riidit, our road follows up 
a narrow little valley around rocky p >ints, 
with high grass-coveretl hills on each side — 
makes one great rainbow curve, away 
around the head of the valley, and conies 
to a stop at 

Tomales — This station is 55 miles from 
San Francisco. Here the Railroad Com- 
pany liave large warehouses for storing 
grain, from which large quantities are 
shipped annually. Tomales consists of a 
few dozen buildings, devoted to mei-chan- 
dizing, with a surrounding country well 
cultivated. Mt. St. Helena can be seen on 
the right, and, in a clear day,fa7' beyond 
the snow-capped Sierras. Leaving the 
station, the road passes through the tbunh 
tunnel, crossing a small creek on a high 
trestle bridge, and then a small inlet Ironi 
the ocean, where we leave Marin county, 
enter Sonoma, and come to 

Valley Fokd Station — Here a sta^e 
leaves dady for Petaluma, eighteen miles 
east. Years ago the section we are now 
entering was the southern border of the 
great redwood forests. Here the lumber- 
man began his labors, and as years passed, 
step by step he penetrated this great lum- 
ber region, leaving in his track stumps, 
fire, smoke, and tinallvthe clearing, broad, 
rich tields and well-cultivated farms, from 
the productions of which he subsists while 
persistently fol owing up his receding 
prey — the redwoods. 

The waters from Bodega Bay sit back to 
near the station, on the left. Three miles 
further, we come to Bodega IIoads, and 
one mile more to Freestone, o\er a 
hea\v tirade. Here we come to another 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



203 



ggreat horsc-slioe curve, around the head of 
"a small valley. First, the road-bed i& far 
dbcxe, then/(7r below, with a deep gorge on 
the left, in which grow mad roue, redwood, 
ana oak trees. Now we come to a trestle 
bridge, 300 feet long and 137 feet high, 
over a frightful gorge; and then to the 
Summit Tunnel, 610 feet long, beyond 
which is 

Howard— The principal business at this 
station is l)urniug coke. Passing on, we 
enter " Dutch Bitl Canj'on," called so in 
early days after Mr. Howard, who there 
wrestled with the big redwoods that it then 
contaiued. Redwoods now appear on each 
side, as also saw-mills. Streeten Mill 
is passed on the left, then anotlur tunnel — 
there are live tunnels iu all, on the road, 
aggregating 3,850 feet — then a long wood 
shute, and 

Tyrone Mills — Here are extens've saw- 
mills on tbe left, with side-tracks running 
to them, with a capacity of 40,000 feet of 
luml)cr a day. 

Leaving this mill, on a down grade, 
through towering redwoods, 300 feet 
high, we roll down past another large 
mill, on the right, to the Russian River, 
just after passing an unimportant side- 
track of that name. 

The river at this place comes down 
through a perfect forest of towering red- 
woods, and is about 300 feet wide, with an av- 
erage depth of two feet. The train runs along 
on the southern bank, pasta beautiful little 
cottage on the right, away up on a high 
spur of the mountains, that projects out 
into the river, and which has been left, as 
it were isolated by the cutting made by the 
Railroad Company in building the road. 
It is one of several country residences be- 
lo.ging to the President of the road. Be- 
yond this point a short distance, is the 
Moscow Mills St.\tion, opposite which 
comes in from tlie north, Austin Creek, 
abounding in redwoods. A short distance 
further, Russian River is crossed on a 
bridge 400 feet long, and the train stops at 
the end of the road at 

Duncan's Mills — Here are located ex- 
tensive saw-mill?, in the midst of great for- 
ests of redwoods. The station isSO miles 
from San Francisco, and consists of one 
large hotel, the Julian— a good station 
building, some shops of the Railroad Com- 
pany, several stores and a dozen or more 
residences, some of which are very good. 
Game of various kinds is abumlant, 
such as deer, bears, etc., and some w Id 



Jiogs. Fish — well, this is the fisherman's 
paradise. Fi om Duncan's Mills it is six 
miles to the Ocean, reached by boats on 
Russian River, which is near the station, 
also by a good wagon road. Stages leave 
Duncan's JNIills daily, except Mondays, for 
the following places: Fort Ross, 16 miles; 
Henry's, 16 miles; Timber Cove, 20 miles; 
Salt Point, 25 miles ; Fisk's Mills, 30 miles ; 
Stewart's Point, 34 miles; Gualala, 44 
miles; Fish Rock, 50 mi'es; Point Arena, 
60 miles; Manchester, 66 miles; Cuffey's^ 
Cove, 80 miles; Navana Ridge, 86 miles; 
and >Iendocino City, 96 miles ; average (are 
ten cents per mile. 

Along the line of this road are located 
several large saw-mills, which produce lor 
market, 200,000 feet of redwood lumber 
daily. 

In conclusion; the ramble about Dun- 
can's Mills will be found by the tourist, a 
very pleasant one, in fact, the scenery 
along the whole line is very interesting. 
The rapid changes and the great variety 
are charming, instructive, and when once 
made will ever live in pleasant memory. 

Returning to San Francisco, we start on 
Route 5. 
$$oiitherii Pacific Railroad 

General Otficcs, San Francisco. 

Chas. Crockeh, President. 

Gko. E. Gray Chuf Engineer^ 

A C. Bassett, General Sitjierintendent. 

H. R. JuDAH Ger\. Pas. and Ticket Agent. 

This company own the road from 
Goshen, in the San Joaquin Valley, and,, 
including the Goshen Division, to Los 
Angeles and Yuma, in Arizona, but it is 
leased to and operated by the " Central " 
Company. This leaves the Soutl ern only 
the line from San Francisco If Soledad. 
142 miles, and the Trespinos division of 18 
miles, Monterey IG, making 176 miles, 
OA^er whii'h we ]iropose journeying. 

Leaving the depot, whicli is situated op- 
posite the general office, corner Townseud 
and Fourth, the route is south, through the 
city for over four miles, most of the dis- 
tance built up with business blocks, manu- 
factorii s, large wool warehouses shops and 
private residences. 

The company's machine shops — exten- 
sive works — are situated about two miles 
from the depot ; another mile is Valencia 
street, where is a horse-car line to the more 
central part of the city. Then we move 
another mile, through some deep cuts and 
high hills on the righ\ and are at 



204 



CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



Bernal — a small station 4.G miles from 
our starting point. Some gardens and 
vegetable tields now appear, and a short 
distance from the station is the Industrial 
School, on an elevation to the riglit. 

San Miguel — is two miles further, 
among the sand-hills, where are some well- 
cultivated gardens. To tlie right is Lake 
Mercede and the city water works. 

Continuing along through the hills, 
which in places are close on each side — 
with the San Bruno Mountains in the dis- 
tance on the right — down a little valley, 
then through deep cuts, past Colma, a 
side-track, and Baden Bay, all in c^uick suc- 
cession, we come to (he signal station of 
Baden, or as often called "Twelve Mile 
Farm." At this place Mr. Chas. Lux, of 
Lux and Miller, the largest cattle dealers 
on the Pacific Coast, resides; and on ]Mr. 
Lux's " Twelve ]\Iile Farm " can be found 
at all times, some of the best cattle in the 
State. 

Two miles further, and we are over the 
hills and down on the edge of San Fran- 
•cisoo Bay, which is on the left, and at 

San Bruno — This station consists of a 
good hotel, and four targets, as it is a 
great resort for shooting at target. The 
targets are on the edge of the bay to the 
left; distances, ^00, 500, 800, and 1,000 
yards each. Here the " sports " gather to 
try their hand. The San Bruno Hotel is 
on the right of the road, where all the 
targets are at shorter rartge, and the shots 
always certain to hit the red. 
MlLLBRAE is the next station, 17 miles 
fi-om San Francisco. To tlie right of the 
road, hnlf-a-mile distant, is the residence of 
D. O. ]\Iills, Presidejit of the Bank of 
California. It will be recognized by the 
two tall towers. A little bcj'ond the station 
is Millbrae dairy, with large yards and 
buildings. On the left, in the bay, are 
great beds of planted oysters. Soon after 

■'•.•,•''.■■• M "I,,-,.. W •■'• I'iM-'iM.. .-.-■ 

designed and hiid out by the late Mr. Rals- 
ton in long streets and avenues, extending 
for two miles along the road, and from the 
base of tlie mountains, on the right, to the 
hay on the left, about ar.other two miles. 
Beside these streets and avenues, are double 
rows of planted trees, most of which are eu- 
calyptus and Monterey cj-press. There are 
some beautiful residences here and^there 
along the base of the mountains o*n tlie 
right. 

Two miles from Millbrae, we pass Oak 



Grove, a small station named for tHf 
grove of oaks near by. 

One peculiarity of this country is: no 
matter how much ground is shaded with 
oaks, it makes no dillcrencc with the crops, 
all kinds of which seem to grow equally 
well in the shade and in the sun. 

S.\N Mateo — (pronounced j\Ia-t-o). Here 
are some of the finest i)rivate residences 
and grounds in tlie State. This town con- 
tains a population of about 1,500. Oaks 
and orchards are everywiiei;e. Stages 
leave San Mateo daily on the arrival of ihc 
train from San Francisco for Half-Moon 
Bay, 14 miles west; Purissima, 23 miles; 
Pescadero, 30 miles. At the latter place 
connections are made tri-weekly for Pigeon 
Point, seven miles ; Davenport's Landing, 38 
miles, and Santa Cruz, 40 miles; average 
fare ten cents per mile. 

Leaving the station, we pass — on the 
riglit — a beautiful park, and the Young 
Ladies' Seminary ; also a race track. To 
the left tlie bay lies close, and the land is 
of little value, until reclainied, buton the 
right is beauty, spread out with a lavish 
hand. Live oaks are scattered around in 
all directions, with buckeye in the ravines 
coming down from the mountains on the 
the right. Windmills are numerous the 
whole length of the valley. 

BELMONT^which is 25 miles from San 
Francisco, comes next. At this station the 
guests of the late Mr. Ralston were wont 
to-alight to visit his residence. This place 
is located a half-mile to the west, up a 
little valley, just (lut of sight from the 
railroad. it originally contained about 
100 acres, which, upon the death of Mr. 
Ralston, came into possession of Senator 
Sharon, who presented 40 acres of the 
land, including ah elegant cottage, to the 
widow, Mrs. Ralston. Leaving Belmont, 
the Phelps estate is on the right, and 
double rows of eucalyptus on the left, for 
two miles. The country between the hills 
and the bay is flat, and under a high state 
of cultivation. 

Redwood City — -comes next, 3.5 miles 
from Belmont. It is the county seat of 
San Mateo county, and a thriving place. 
It Avas named from the great redwood 
forest on the west, a large quantity of which 
finds its way to market in the shape of 
lumber, Avood and bark, from this station. 
The city is supplied Avitli water from an 
artesian well. The county buildings, 
schools, churches and hotels, arc all said 
to be Jfr/i'-rlnss, as well as the weekly pa- 



AN]) I'ACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



205 



per, the Times and Gazette. Stages leave 
daily for Seareville, seven miles ; La Honda, 
IG miles, and Pescadero, 30 miles. 

Passing Fair Oaks, a small station in 
the midst of beautiful residences, sur- 
rounded with parks, gardens, orchards and 
moss-drooping oaks, we come to 

Menlo Paiuv — near wliich reside a score 
or more of millionaires, including E.x- 
Gov. Stanford, Milton S. Latham, J. C. 
Flood, Albert Grand, Faxon Atherton, 
Maj. liathbone, M. D. Sweney, Col. Eyre, 
and many others. jMenlo Park Hotel is 
situated on the right, and is embowered in 
trees, vines, and flowers. On the left, 
leaving the station, is "Thurlow Lodge," a 
palatial residence, situated in the center of 
princely grounds, with the most costly sur- 
roundings, consisting of deer park, trees, 
gardens, orchards and shrubbery. A little 
further, on the right, comes the 500-acre 
farm ot E.\-Gov. Stanford, President of the 
Central Pacific railroad. Here is the home 
of " Occident," and some of the finest 
blooded stock on the Pacific coast. 

Maypield — a town of 1,000 inhabitants, 
34.9 miles from San Francisco, is situated 
in the widest part of Santa Clara Valley, 
embowered in " blue gum " oaks, and other 
trees. It is AS*, miles from Mountain 
View — a small station, so named from the 
extended view which it affords of the 
Coast Range on the west, the Contra Costa, 
on the east, as well as the whole surround- 
ing country. 

The great oaks add an indescribable beauty 
to this country, and grow in great pro- 
fusion, particularly c n the Mm'phy Grant, 
through which Ave are now passing. This 
grant oi iginally covered some thousands of 
acres, in this, the richest portion of the 
Santa Clara Valley. Murphy's Station — 
for the accommodation of the gi-aut — is lo- 
cated near its center. 

We are now opposite the head of San 
Francisco Bay — on tlie east — and the little 
town of Alviso, which is noted for its 
strawberries and fruit, as well as being a 
point from which immense quantities of 
produce are shipped on the boats that land 
at its ample wharf 

We pass on through, a section, where 
every foot of land is in a high state of cul- 
tivation, for two miles, and come to 
Lawrence — a small place 8 5 miles from 
the beautiful 

Santa Clara — This is a beautiful and 
quiet old town of about 4,000 inhabitants, 
originally founded by the Jesuits, in 1774. 



It is situated near the center of Santa Clara 
Valley, one of the loveliest in the "world, 
possessing a soil of surpassing richness. 
It is celebrated for the salubrity of its cli- 
mate, and the excellence and variety < f its 
fruits; is thickly settled, and as a wheat- 
growing valley it has no superior. In 
point of improvements, good farm-houses, 
orchards, vineyards, etc., it has few, if any, 
equals. 

Churches and schools are numerous ; 
Santa Clara and San Jose — three miles 
apart — are both noted for their educational 
institutions, where some of the finest in 
the State are located. The convent of 
Notre Dame, the San Jose Institute, the 
State Normal School, and the new building 
of the University of the Pacific, Methodist, 
Female Seminary, and the Catholic Col- 
legiate Institute, stand as monuments t(v 
attest a people's integrity and Avorth. 

There are two weekly papers published 
at Santa Clara — the Index and News. 
Stages leave daily for Los Gatos, seven 
miles; Lexington, ten miles ; and the Con- 
gress Springs, thirteen miles; fare, ten 
cents per mile. These springs are resorted 
to by those suffering with pulmonary 
complaints. 

South Pacific Coast E. R., narrow 
gauge, now completed from Alameda, 
opposite SanFrancisco.to SantaCruz, 
80 miles, passes through Alvarado, a 
manufacturing town on the east side of 
the bay, about 10 miles west of Niles, 
to Santa Clara, thence southwest, 
through a long tunnel, under the Coast 
Range of mountains, 37 miles to 

Santa Cruz, situated on an arm of 
Monterey Bay, and is often called the 
"NcAvport" of California, being a noted sum- 
mer resort for sea bathers, who find good 
accommodations in the shape of hotels, 
bathing houses, etc. It is the county seat 
of Santa Cruz county, population, 3,000; 
connected by rail with the Southern Pa- 
cific at Pajaro 21 miles and, with Fulton 
eight miles; and by stage, with all adjoin- 
ing towns up and down the coast, and by 
steamer to San Francisco. 

Returning to Santa Ciara, we can, if 
we choose, step into the horse-cars, or take 
a carriage for San Ji'sc, and ride over the 
most beam if ul avenues in liieState, it is 
bordered on each side with two rows of 
pojilar and willow trees, planted by the 
early Jesuit missionaries nearly 100 years 
ago. 

Behind these trees are elegant cottages. 



206. 



CROFUTT S KEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



beautiful orchards, nurseries, and gardens, 
containing almost every variety of vege- 
tables, fruits, and flowers. 

By steam cars it is 2.0 miles from Santa 
Clara to 

San Jose City — (Pronounced San 0-za) ; 
population, 18,000 This is the county 
seat of Santa C'iara county, and is the larg- 
est town in Santa Clara Valley, in popu- 
lation being the fourth iu the State It 
was lirst settled by the Spanish mission- 
aries, in 1777. Tile city is lighted Avith 
gas; the streets are macadamized, and 
ornamented with rows of shade trees on 
each side. Artesian wells, and the " Cali- 
fornia Wind Mill," together with a small 
mountain stream, abundantly supply the 
city with good water. The Alameda, or 
grove, was planted in 1799. It is by far 
the prettiest grove of planted timber iu the 
State, and by many people it is claimed 
that San Jose is the prettiest city iu the 
State. It is certainly oue of the btst im- 
proved, and there are none more beautiful. 
Its orchards, vineyards and shade trees; 
its fine private and public buildings, and 
the delightful climate of the valley, render 
it a favorite place of summer lesort. 

San Jose has numerous church edifices — 
ample public and private schools, hotels, 
and newspapers. The Mercury and In- 
dependent, both daily and weekly; the 
Patriot., daily; and Argus, weekly, are 
published here. The Auzerais, St. James, 
Exchange and Lick, are the principal 
hotels. The city is connected by railroad 
with Solidad, 72 miles, south, and San 
Francisco by two lines — the one we came 
on, through the thickly settled and well- 
cultivated Santa Clara and San Mateo 
countries; distance, 50 miles, and by Cen- 
tral Pacific via JStiles and Oakland. 

The new road to Mt. Hamilton — 20 
miles distant — leaves San Jose, and can be 
seen winding up the side of the mountain, 
on the east. It was lor the erection of a 
college on the summit of Mt. Hamilton — 
altitude, 4,400 feet — that the millionaire, 
James Lick, left $150,000 in his will. 
The building- has l)(?en eom])leted, and 
reflects much credit on the doner. 

Stages leave San Jose daily for the noted 

New Almaden Quicksilver Mines — 
These mines are very extensive, and should 
be visited by the curious. They were dis- 
covered by an officer in the Mexican ser- 
vice during the year 1845, who, seeing the 
Indians with their faces juiinted Avith ver- 
milion, bribed one of them, who told him 



where it was to be found. The following 
year, several English and ^Mexicans formed 
a company for working the mines, large 
sums of monej" were expended, and maiy 
difiiculties h;td to be overcome; but finally, 
by the introduction of important improve- 
ments, the mines have proved to be very 
valuable. The difterent mines fu^ni^h 
em|jloyment for, and support trom l,OiiO to 
1,500 persons. Xearly all Ihe miners aie 
Mexicans. 

It is supposed that these mines were 
known and worked by the native Indians 
of California, long before the country was 
known by white men. They worked ihem 
to ju-ocure the vermilion paint whii h the 
ore contained, for the purpose of painting 
and adorning their villainous persons, a. d 
to "swop" with the neighboring tribes. 
Near the mines are the springs, where is 
put up the New Ahnaden Vichy Water, so 
noted for its medieiual qualities. 'I he 
Guadalupe Quicksilver mines are ten miles 
distant. 

Both San Jose and Santa Clara are em- 
bowered in trees, among which are the 
oak, eucalyptus, pojdar, ^pruce cei ar, 
31onlerey and Italian cj'prci-s, orange, 
pepper, sycamore, and many others. 

Leaving San Jose, the State Normal 
School building is on the left in the center 
ot a block, surrounded by beautiiul 
grounds. Several miles further on is ihe 
Hebrew Cemetery. Here the road to J\it. 
Hamilton can be plainly seen; it is 22 
miles long and JJO leet wide, with a uni- 
form grade of five feet to the hundreil. 

Away to the right, on ihe side ol tlic 
mountain, marked by a red ap|iear .uce, is 
a quicksilver mine, but the water prevents 
work. Still Juither and below, is the New 
Almaden mine, marked by eoiumus of 
steam that are always a.sceuding. 

Coyote Creek is now on our left, iu a 
broad, low bottom. Ihe small stations uf 
Eden Vale, Coyote and Pekuvs, are 
soon passed, and lb.8 mires fnnu San Jose, 
we are at 

Madrone— The counliy passed over is 
well settled, and many fine resid' nce.s are 
scattered along the valley, which is about 
one mil : in width, with low r. lliug lulls 
on tlu west. 

Leaving Madrone, on the right a In ge 
sharp cone rises up out of the valley l,OuO 
feet in height. We call it Johnson's 
Peak, named for the enterprising newsman 
of this road. 

Tennants — is four miles further, be- 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



207 



yond ■which is the most magnificent moss 
view that one could conceive, bycamore 
and moss-drooping oal<s are very plentiiul, 
reminding one oT the appearance of a 
New Enghmd apple orchard after a storm 
of snow and rain, where all the limbs and 
boughs are borne down with icicles and 
snow. 

GiLKOY — is seven and a h:df miles from 
Teunant and 8O.0 miles from San Francisco ; 
a regular eating station, where trains stop 
twenty minutes for meals, which are very 
good; price, 50 cents. Gilroy contains a 
population of about 2,000, most of whom 
are engaged in agricultural and pastoral 
pursuits. Tobacco is raised in large quan- 
tities, and dairying is made a specialty by 
many of the people. The principal hotels 
are the Southern Pacific and the Williams. 
Stages leave Gilroj' for San Fillipe, 10 
miles; Los Banos, 48 miles; and Fire- 
baughs, 80 miles east; fare ten cents per 
mile. Stages run daily to the Gilroy Hot 
Springs, a very attractive resort, 15 miles 
east. From Gilroy it is 2.2 miles to 

Carn.\dero — a small station where pas- 
senger trains meet, and from which a track 
branches to the left and continues up the 
Santa Clara Valley, 11.8 miles to 

HoLLESTER — ^a thrifty to^vn of 2,000 in- 
habitants, most of whom are agriculturists. 
From Hollestei- it is 6.2 miles to Trespinos 
— the end of the track. 

From this point large quantities of 
freight are shipped for the New Idria 
Quicksilver, Picacho and other mines in 
the country, to the south and east. Stages 
run triweekly to San Bruno, 25 miles; 
New Idria, 65 miles; Picacho, 75 miles; 
fare about ten cents per mile. 

The original route of the Southern 
Pacific railroad was from this point, via 
San Benito Pass to Goshen, in the San 
Joaquin Valley. From Goshen the road is 
built a distance of 40 miles this way, to 
Hur.in. Whether the link between the two 
divisions will be completed and when, we 
will never tell, till we know. The distance 
across to Huron is, to San Benito Pass, 60 
miles; to Huron, 100 milts. 

Returning to Carnadero, we soon come 
to the great Blooinlield Ranche, which 
takes in many thousand acres, crossing 
the valley and over the mountains, on each 
side. It is the home of Mr. Miller, of Lux 
& Miller, the great cattle men. At Baden, 
twelve miles from San Francisco, wc pass 
Mr. Lux's place, the " Twelve Mile Farm." 
On this ranche are kept and fattened great 



numbers of cattle, fur the market of San 
Francisco. 

Continuing up the valley, which is here 
narrowed to one mile in width, with low- 
grass covered hills on each side, we come to 
the residence of Senator Sargent, on 
the right, and a short distance further, 

Sargent Station — in the midst of a 
dairy country. Stages leave here for San 
Juan, south, six miles distant, up a little 
valley to the left, distinctly seen a few miles 
further on our way. 

Soon after leaving the station, we turn 
more to the westward, and the little vaLey 
is completely crowded out by the bluffs, 
and we run along on the bank of Pajaro 
River, up a narrow canyon, and cross the 
line between Santa Clara and Santa Cruz 
county, at the point where Pesca.lero 
Creek comes in on the right. Continuing 
up, between high bluffs, we cross a bridge 
over the Pathro River and are in San 
Benito county, then dive through a tunnel 
950 feet long, and come out into the beauti- 
ful Pajaro Vallej", which is nine miles long 
and four wide, a portion of th& Aroma 
Grant, once a very extensive one. The 
Santa Cruz Mountains are high, on the 
right, and covered with a dense growth of 
redwoods. Passing Vega, a signal station, 
we come to ' 

Pajaro— (pronounced Pah-a-ro) thirteen 
miles from Sargent's, and 99.4 from San 
Francisco. 

Watsonvtlle — is one mile to the right 
from this station, and contains a popula- 
tion of 4,000, and is a thrifty town, situated 
three miles from Watson's landing, on 
Monterey Bay, where steamers and other 
vessels land regularly. It contains two 
weekly papers, the Pajaroiiian and the 
Transcript. Tlie Lewis House is the prin- 
cipal hotel. 

From Pajaro, the Santa Cruz, narrow- 
gauge railroad connects with the Southern 
Pacific This road is 21.15 miles long and 
runs through Watsonville, Aptos, and 
Soquel,to Santa Cruz. (See map, page 120.) 
The lumber business is, next to the agri^ 
cultural, the most important interest in 
this section of the country. From Pajaro, 
our course will be east of south, to the end 
of the road. 

Rolling down this beautiful valley, we 
come to Elkhorn Slough, over which our 
road is built on piles for a long distance. 
To the right, down this slough, is Moss 
Landing, nine miles distant, between which 
and a pier, close on our right, a small 



208 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



steamboat plies regularly, for the 
transportation of freight and passen- 
gers for the regular coast steamboats 
that stop at this point. 

We are now running along, over and 
beside a salt marsh, inhabited by 
cranes, pelicans, ducks and mud-hens, 
with peat bogs and stagnant pools for 
immediate surroundings, while to the 
left, a half-mile away, is high rolling- 
prairie, covered with cattle and sheep, 
beyond, the long range of the Gabilau 
Mountains, while to the far right, a 
glimpse can be had of the Ocean. 

From Pajaro, 10.3 miles, brings us to 

Oastroville— one-half-mile to the 
west of the railroad ; population about 
800. The town is situated at the north- 
ern end of Salinas Valley, in Monterey 
county, one of the most productive in 
the State. It is recorded in the Agri- 
cultural Bureau in Washington, that 
the largest yield of wheat ever known 
was grown in this valley, in 1852, being 
102 bushels to the acre. That year 
whole fields averaged 100 bushels to 
the acre ; an ordinary cro]5 is from 40 
to 50 bushels. In 1873 Monterey coun- 
ty produced 800,000 bushels of wheat, 
400,000 bushels of barley, 70,000 bush- 
els of oats, and other productions in 
proportion. Slieep and cattle in large 
numbers are raised. The wool-clip for 
1866 amounted to 1,500,000 lbs; butter, 
360.000 lbs. ; cheese 120,000 lbs. ; aver- 
age value of land, $8 per acre. The 
lands in this valley are mostly 'safe 
lands.' will produce without irrigation. 

In the spring of 1880, a branch road 
was completed from Oastroville to 
Monterey, IG miles. It is of standard 
gauge, and takes the place of the old 
narrow gauge from Salinas. 

Monterey. — This place is situated 
on the southern extreme of the bay of 
Monterey, the most capacious on the 
Pacific coast, 136 miles from San Fran- 
cisco by rail, and about 100 by steamer. 
Immediately to the westward of the 
city is Point Pinos, jutting out to the 
northward four miles, to meet Point 
Santa Oruz, another long ]iromt)ntory 
extending from the north, between 
which and the main land— land-locked 
as it were — is the broad bay of Monte- 
rey. This bay was first discovered by 
Cabarillo in 1542. In 1770 the site was 
occupied by the Jesuits, under the 
leadership of Padre Junipero, who. 



June 3, of that year,held the first mass. 
The bell which called the faithful to- 
gether was hung from a tree, the loca- 
tion of which is now marked by a cross, 
erected on the centennial day of its 
celebration, bearing the legend, "June 
3d, 1770." On the hill, near this cross, 
are the ruins of an old fort, near a 
Mexicanfortof alaterdate; and high- 
er up the hill is where the American 
fort of 1846 was built, when the Amer- 
icans seized the country. 

Montereyis a quiet, sleepy old town, 
where every person seemed satisfied 
with himself, apparently believingthe 
world is completed; living on in the 
dreamy self-satisfied consciousness 
that the spirit of progress is at an end 
—a present tangible heaven of eternal 
sunshine. It is a glorious place to 
spend a few weeks; having done so, 
the pleasurable memories of the so- 
journ will ever remain a ray of soft 
sunshine, while plodding through the 
cares, trials and perplexities of active 
business life. Monterey — as one might 
wellsiippose-isafavoriteresortin the 
summer for the better classes of cit- 
izens of the State, as well as for tour- 
ists, who find ample accommodations. 

Ktiturning to Oastroville, to the east, 
beside the mountains, can be seen, at 
certain points after leaving Oastro- 
ville, the little villages of Natividad 
Sodaville, and the Alisal race-track. 
Salinas— is 7.9 miles south of Oas- 
troville, situated to the right of the 
road, and on the east bank of Salinas 
River, with a thriving population of 
3,000, and many fine stores, hotels and 
private residences. The Abbot is the 
l>rincipal hotel, and the Index and 
Democrat are two weekly x:>apers. 

Stages leave daily for New Republic, 
east, three miles; Natividad, north- 
east,six miles; fare,ten cents per mile. 
Starting once more for the south, we 
find this to be the widest portion of 
Salinas Valley, which is about 90 miles 
in length, with an average width of 
eight miles. The valley is situated be- 
tween the Gabilan mountains, to the 
eastward, and Santa Lucian Range on 
the west, about 20 miles from the Pa- 
cific Ocean, from the winds of which it 
is protected by the mountain named. 
Ohualar— is 10.9 miles from Salinas, 
and consists of several stores, hotels, 
saloons and a dozen or more resi- 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



203 



dencos. Here are cattle pens and 
shutes, indicating" that we are in a 
country wliere cattle are shipped to 
market ; the same might be said of 
GoxzALES a station six miles farther, 
only there are a few more people, 
"scratching" the soil, which is great- 
ly abused by this shiftless method of 
farming. Proceeding on 8.4 miles 
further,we reach the end of the track at 
SoLEDAD — This is a small i^lace of 
100 or more inhabitants, with a few 
stores, hotels, saloons, stage- stables, 
freight warehouses, and some private 
residences. It is a point from which 
a large amount of freiglit is shipped 
to the southward, and from whicli a 
regular daily line of stages run to 
the following places: Lowe's 28 
miles; Solon, 40 miles; Paso Kobles, 
Hot Sgrings, 80 miles ; San Louis 
Obispo, 10 miles; Arroyo Grande, 125 
iniles; Gaudalupe, 140 miles; Santa 
Barbara, 220 miles; San Buena Ven- 

TOWARDS 

Ho ! for Yo-Semite, the "Big Trees," 
over tlie "Loup," across the Mojave 
Desert, down through Solidad and 
to Los Angeles; then, over the San 
Barnardino, downujider the sea, over 
the great Colorado desert, into Ari- 
zona, through New Mexico cind on to 



tura, 250 miles, and Newhall, 300 
miles; average fare, eight cents per 
mile. 

To the westward of Solidad, seven 
miles, away up a cosy nook of the 
Coast Range, is situated the Paraiso 
Springs, which it is claimed, possess 
medicinal qualities. We could hear 
of no analysis of these waters, which 
boil up in close proximity to each 
other. Some are very hot— others 
very cold, but soda, iron and white 
sulphur are the principal ingredients. 

A hotel will be found at the Springs, 
Avhere bathing in the waters, hunting, 
fishing and inhaling the pure moun- 
tain air can be enjoyed. 

In conclusion, this is one 61 those 
trips where a great diversity of scen- 
ery, numerous objects of interest and 
the wealth and beauties, and the var- 
ied productions of the State can be 
seen and contemplated. 

Eeturning to San Francisco we start 

SUNRISE. 

the "Father Land"— around the circle. 
Leaving San Francisco, the route 
is via Oakland, Martinez, and Tracy, 
to Lathrop, over the track of the 
Overland line, as described, com- 
mencing on page 178. Just before 
reaching Lathrop our 



'So. 31 Anxex. aievarta Falls.— In order 
to form a isroper idea of the superb picture, No. 
13, of tbo large series, it will be necessary to 
preuaiso that the Yo-Seuiito Valley isauiuiuiense 
gorge, in the western slope of the Sierra Nevada 
Sloiintains, about seven iniles in length, from 
east to west, and from oue-eight of a mile to two 
miles in width, from north to south. The walls 
surrounding this mighty chasm are nearly per- 
pendicular, and from 2,000 to 6,000 feet high. 
The va ious streams that find their way into the 
vaUey flow overthis tremendous wall on entering. 
At the eastern end of the valley proper, i t divides 
^^to two canyons, projecting still eastward, but 
alvergiug as they mount the Sierras. Itis through 
the south of one of these canons, thattlio main 
branch of the Mercede Kiver flows, and on enter- 
ing the valley, ifc nrakes two leai^s. The lower 
one, or Vernal Fall, of 250 feet in height, 100 
feet wide, .and from three to four feet deep, where 
it leaps the square-edged barrier. Continuing \ip 
the canyon for a mile, above the Vernall Fall, 
amidst the wildest scenery imaginable, and wo 
reach the Great Nevada Fall, the subject of our 
l)icture. The canyon narrows, in a wedge-like 
form, to qiTite a point, and just at the right of 
this vortex is the fall. It is i)00 fei-t high, 7.') 
feet wide at the brink, aixl 130 feet l)elow. B?- 
garded as to its height, volume, pui'ity of water, 
and general surroundings, it is one of the grand- 
est objects in the world. The spectator facing the 
east will observe on his left the "Cap of Liberty" 
lifting its rounded summit of S'nooth and weatla- 
14 



er-polished granite, 2,000 above the Fall, 5,000 
feet above tlie valley below, or 9,000 feet above 
the sea. To paint in words, in the space allowed 
us, the beauties of the Fall, the bolder scenery, 
the foliage, mosses and ferns, always moist 
from the ispray, and brilliant green in summer, 
the roar ond rush of the fast-flowing river, the 
majestic grandeur of the rocky frame-work, 
which towers above and around it, is simply an 
impossibility ; we shall not try, t)ut refer the 
reader's imagination and judgment with these 
statistics to the beautiful picture, which we have 
engraved from a faithful photograph. 

Xo. 40 Anxex. lliiTOr Bi,ilc '. Yo- 
Semite Valley — In the large illustration. No. 
12, is presented one of tlie most wonderful, as 
well as charmingly ijicturesque scenes to be wit^ 
u-r-ssed in this most romantic valley. As will be 
seen, it rei^resents one of the most bold and 
striking views of a charming little sheet of 
crystaL water of almost a couple of acres in ex- 
tent, in which numerous schools of speckled 
ti'out may be seen gaily disporting themselves. 

The waters are as still as death, as though awed 
by the wondrious grandeur of its surroTiudings. 
Close to the southeast stands the majestic ' ' South 
Dome," 4,.590feetin a'titude above the lake. On 
the north and west lie immense rocks that have 
become detached from the top of the mountain, 
3,000 feet above ; among these grow a large var- 
iety of trees and shrubs, many of which stand 
on and overhang the margin of the lake, and are 
reflected on its bosom, as in the picture. 



210 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



train leaves the track of the Overland and 
turns to the right, leaving the station build- 
ing betwei n ours and the Overland track. 

At Laturop our train stops : minutes 
for supper, and then turns to the right, up 
the Great 8an Joacjuin Valley The 
general direction of our road, for the next 
350 miles, is to the southeast. 

San Joaquin (pronounced San Waw- 
Keen). — This valley embraces portions of 
nine counties, and is larger than many 
kingdoms of the old world, &n(\ far richei\ 
extending to Visalia, county seat of Tulare 
county. The amount of grain and stock 
raised m this valley, and the hundreds of 
smaller ones tributary to it, is almost in- 
credible, for a country so recently settled. 
The valley is about 200 miles in length, 
and averages about 30 miles in width; 
comprising near 6,000,000 acres of the 
richest agricultural lands in the State, 
besides near a million acres of tuiles and 
salt marsh lands, which, when reclaimed, 
prove to be the most fertile lands in the 
•world. 

Iflorano — is 5,5 miles from Lathrop, 
important onlj', as many ether stations ou 
this road are, as a shipping point for 
grain, with side-track and great storage 
■warehouses. 

Ripon — comes next, 47 miles further, 
near which the Stanislaus River is crossed, 
and three miles more comes 

^alida — another small station, with 
accommodations for shipping and storing 
grain From Salida it is 6.8 miles to 

]flodesto — 'he county seat of Stanis- 
laus county. It was laid out in 1870, and 
now contains a population of over 1,500, 
while the county contains about 11,000 
Agriculture is the chief occupation of the 
people 

Leaving Modesto, we cross the Tou- 
lumna River, and in 4.6 miles reach Ceres, 
a small, unimportant side-track, 8.5 miles 
from TuRi.oCKS, another small station, 
101 miles from Cressev, reached just after 
crossing the Mercede River. Continuing 
on 6 7 miles, Atwater is reached. At 
this station, as well as those we have passed 
are large buildings for storing grain, 
as grain-raising — wheat — is the only occu- 
pation of the settlers. From Atwater it is 
7.5 miles to one of the most important 
places so far on the road, 

Merced — the county seat of Merced 
county ; population about 3,000 ; has many 
fine buildings, including a $75,000 court 
house and a large firsUclass liotel, the El 



Capitan, Col. Bross, proprietor. There are 
two weekly papers published in Mercede, 
the Argus and the Exprtss. 

From Merced it is ten miles east, to the 
foot-hills and thirty to the western edge of 
the valley, at the base of the Contra Costa 
Range. 

The county of Merced is the richest in 
the valley ; it had 360,700 acres of land 
under cultivation in 1870, which yielded a 
little over 4 500,000 bushels of wheat, be- 
sides large quantities of barley, rye, corn, 
peas, beans, potatoes, hay, tobacco, cotton 
and many other kinds of crops The 
county contains a population of 65,000, 
most of whom are tilling the soil In this 
county was raised the finest cotton in the 
State. The value of these lands ranges 
from $250 to $10 per acre. 

The game is plentiful in the river bot- 
toms and along the foot-hills. Irrigating 
cnals convey water over a great portion of 
the land. Some of these canals are quite 
extensive ; one, the San Joaquin & Kings 
River Canal is 100 miles long, 68 feet wide 
and six feet deep. 

For several y' ars the greater portion of 
the travel for Yo-Scmite Valley and the big 
tree groves took stages at Merced passing 
over tlie route, via Coulterville or Mari- 
posa, but a new route (see map, page 120) 
has been laid out from Madera, 33 miles 
further south, which, it is claimed, makes 
the distance by stage mucli shorter, and 
over a better road However, we shall 
give both routes in Annex No 53, and 
tourists can decide which Ihey will take. 
Should they go in on one and' out on the 
other route, little of the scenery will be 
overlooked. (See i^age 184.) 

3Iariposa — county seat of Mariposa 
county, is 45 miles oast, reached by stage 
from Pierced. This town contains about 
1,000 itiliabitants Once it was noted for 
its rich placer mines, but now quartz 
mining is the principal occupation of the 
people. In Bear Valley are the mills and 
mines (or a portion of them) belonging to 
the " Las ^lariposa Grant,"' or tlic Fremont 
estate, as it is usually called The Benton 
mills are on the Mercede River, about two 
miles from the town, reached by a good 
dug road, down a very steep mountain In 
Mount Ophir and Princeton, mining towns 
near by, are large quartz mills, belonging 
to the estate and extensive min s. 

Leaving Merced, it is 9.9 miles to 

Atlilone— is a small station near 
the crossing of Mariposa River, beyosd 



CKOFUTT'S NEW OVEKLAND TOURIST 



211 



■which the Conchilla River is crossed, and 
MiNTUKN is reached 6.4 miles Iroin Plains- 
hurg, iu the extreme western edge of Fresno 
county. For a long distance the foot-hills of 
the Sierras on the left have appeared to be 
close and very rugged. The peaks of Mt. 
Lyell and Hitter loom up on tli t left, full 
80 miles away, and a litUe further south- 
ward Mts. Goddard, King, Gardner, 
Brewer, Sillimau, Tyndall and others can 
be d.stinctly seen with their summits 
covered with snow. 

Berenda— is reached 9.5 miles from 
Mintuvn soon after which we cross the 
Fresno lliver, and many broad, sandy, dry 
creeks, and, 7.5 miles more, come to 

Madera— This is a busy town ot 
about 800 |)opulation. Here we find a 
large " V " tiume, 53 mi'es long, for fioat- 
ing^lumber down from the saw-mills in the 
mountains at the end of the flume. It was 
completed in 1876, and does an immense 
business. 

From Madera, a new road has been 
completed into the Yo-Semite Valley, via 
Fresno Flats, through Fresno and Mari- 
posa big tree groves. For map of route, 
see page 120, "and for description of 
route, Annex No. 53, page 184. 

I No visitor to this coast ever thinks of 
leaving it without viewing the wonderful. 

Yo-Semite Valley and the Big 
Trees — The grandest scenery on the 
American Continent, if not iu the world, 
is to be seen in the valley of the Yo- 
Semite, (pronounced Yo-Sem-i-te; by the 
Indians, Yo-Ham-i-te). This valley was 
discovered by white men in March, 1851, 
first by Major Savage. It is about eight 
miles long, and from one-half to a mile in 
"width. The Merced River enters tlie head 
of the valley by a series of waterfalls, 
which — combinecl with the perpendicular 
granite walls which rise on either side 
from 2,000 to 6,000 feet above the green 
valley and sparkling waters beneath — pre- 
sents a scene of beauty and magnificence 
unsurpasseu. except, possibly, in child- 
hood's faii-y dreams. 

Here is majesty — enchanting — awe-in- 
spiring — indescribable!*— ihe lofty cloud- 
capped waterfalls and mirrored lakes ; the 
towering, perpendicular granite clifl's and 
fearful chasms, strike the beholder with a 
wondering admiration impossible to de- 
scribe. 

We have often desired to take our read- 
ers with us, in a pen and pencil descrip- 
tion'of this most remarkable valley, and 



the " Big Trees," but in view of our lim- 
ited space, the magnitude of the under- 
taking, together with our conscious in- 
ability to do justice to the subject, we have 
contented ourselves by giving a number of 
beautiful illustrations, which include the 
great Yo-Semite Falls, Nevada Falls, Mir- 
ror Lake, ana a map of the routes and tiie 
surrounding country, showing the rela- 
tive position of the valley, trees, and ad- 
.ioining towns to the railroaa. 

The most notable falls in Yo-Semite 
Valley are: the Ribbon, 3,300 feci fall; 
the Upper Yo-Semite, 2,634 feet; the 
Bridal Veil, 950; the Nevada, 700; the 
Lower Yo-Semite, 600; the Vernal, 350 
feet. Tiie South Dome is 6,0i;0 feet high; 
the Three Brothers, 4,000; Cap of Liberty, 
4,240 ; Three Graces, 3,750 ; North Dome, 
3,725; Glaciers Point, 3,705; El-Capitain, 
3 300; Sentinel Rocks, 3,270; Cathedral 
Rocks, 2,690; Washington Tower, 2,200; 
and the Royal Arches, 1,800 feet high. 

The Fresno Grove of Big trees has not 
heretofore been accessible to the tourist, 
and will thereiore form a new and attract- 
ive feature to this modern route. Like 
the Mariposa Grove, it is divided into two 
groves, usually called the Upper and Lower, 
about one mile apart, and covering a mile 
square each — together they contain from 
800 to 900 trees of the Sequoia Gigantea of 
all sizes. One in the Upper Grove meas- 
ures 88 feet in circumference 6 feet from 
the ground. In the Lower Grove there is 
one that is 95 feet in circumference 3 feet 
from the ground. 

' From Madera, we find a grazing coimtr}- ; 
large herds of sheep abound. 

The old Fresno placer mines are to the 
eastward, along tne foot-hiiis, but little 
is being done with them, by the whites; 
tlie Chinese are working them over, as they 
are many of the abandoned placers 
throughout the State. 

Borden — on Ottonwood Creek, is 
the next station. This place is_;i.« miles 
from Madera, with about 100 population. 
Here irrigating ditches apptar on each 
side, and much of the laud is under culti- 
vation. Nine miles furtlier comes Syca- 
MOiiE, a side-track of little account, just 
at the crossing of the San Joaquin llivtT, 
which is here a small stream, with very 
little water. The country is now quite 
flat, with many little roun,I mounds froni 
ten to thirty feet in diameter, and from 
two to five feet iu height. They present 
a very peculiar appearance, somewhat re- 



212 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



sembling a prairie dog town, only much 
larger, and uitliout the hole in the top. 

From 8ycam' re it is !).8 miles to 

I'^'resno— the county seat of Fresno 
county, a coimty the most diversified in 
the State, where land can be purchased for 
from $8.U0 to $10 per acre. The town of 
Fresno has a population of about HOO , has 
a $60,00U court-house, some good business 
blocks, two weekly newspapers — the Ex- 
positor and Rfoiew — and is a thrifty, growl- 
ing place. The soil about the town is 
largely clay, producing well when irri- 
gated, but never a seed without. 

A most beautiful view is here to be ob- 
tamed of the mountains on the left; the 
principal peaks rise from 12,000 to 14,000 
feet above tliis valley, covered with snow 
the year round Planted timber appears 
at places, and some of the private resi- 
dences are surrounded by trees, mostly 
eucalyptus 

A stage line runs to Centreville, seventeen 
miles east. Several schemes are in hand 
for building large irrigating canals, taking 
the water from the San Joaquin and King's 
rivers, which, when completed, will be of 
great benelil to tins people. 

To the southwest, three and a half miles, 
is located the Caiitbrnia Colony of about 
125 families The colony's laud is regu- 
larly laid out for a town, with 40 acres of 
ground for each family. The canal that 
supplies water to the colony is crossed 
about five miles after leaving Fresno. 
Little of tlie laud along here lying near the 
road is cultivated, but wheu the irrigating 
canals spoken of are completed, they Avill 
all be found occupied and yieldmg large 
crops. 

From Fresno it is 9.6 miles to 

FO'wler— a small station where trains 
seldom stop, there being only half-a-dozen 
iuildings— so we roll on 10.5 miles fm-- 
<her to 

K-ingsbHrg— where there are several 
stores, and about one dozen buildings. 

All along this valley numerous wind- 
mills are in operation, for irrigating and 
domestic purposes, that raise abimdauce of 
good water from a depth of from fifteen to 
forty feet. Soon after leaving Kingsbury, 
the road is built on an embankment which 
extends to King's River, which is crossed 
on a long trestle bridge. 

This river rises in the high Sierras, to 
the northeast, and after reaching this val- 
ley, has a broad, sandy bottom, is very 
crooked, its course being marked, far 



above and below, with trees and willows 
which grow thickly along its bank. King's 
liiver, where the railroad crosses it, is the 
boundary line, beyond which lies the 
county of Tulare. 

Sheep ranches, fenced fields — some very 
large— are now noticeable extending to the 
right and left — well we don't know how 
faVy as the valley hereabout is full 40 miles 
in width, and sheei) and fences, and fences 
and sheep, extend as far as the eye can 
distinguish the appearance of the land, the 
soil of which is clay and sand, in places 
somewhat alkaline. Cattle are also 
raised to some extent in the foot-hills, and 
pens and shutes for shipiDing are to be 
seen at many of the stations on the road. 

The next station is Ciioss Ckeek, 8.1 
miles from Kiugsburg, and 5 8 miles Irom 

doshen-- Here we come to the South- 
ern Pacific railroad — Goshen Division — 
the track of which could be seen on the 
right, just before reachingthe staiion. This 
division is only completed 40 miles, and is 
designed, eventually, to connect with the 
lint extending towards it from Gilroy, 
which is now completed to Trespinos 100 
miles south of San Francisco, referred to 
on page 207 

7 he stations on the Goshen division are- 
Hakford, 12.9 miles from Goshen-, Le- 
MOOK, eight miles lurther; Heinlen, 1.6 
miles, antl 17.5 more to 

Huron — whole distance, 40 miles from 
Goshen , distance from Huron to Trespi- 
nos, 100 miles. This division runs Ihrongh 
what IS known ds the " Mussel Slough " 
country, a section where the land is very 
rich, adjoining Tulare Lake, on the north, 
wher the yield of all kinds of crops is 
marvelous Reports say some of these 
lands have yielded as high as |'250 per 
acre in a singb year; X\\i\X fi'se crops of 
Alfalfa a year is common, and vegetables — 
well, wo will iKver tell you — the yield is 
immense! two hundred pound pumpkins, 
eight leet in circumference ; potatoes twelve 
pounds in weight, and col■n^tulks 20 feet 
high, are some of the figures The price 
of land ranges from $20 "to $100 per acre. 

At Goshen, a track branches off to the 
left, on which cars are run seven miles to 

VisALiA — the county seat of Tulare 
county. It contains about 1,600 inhabi- 
tants, and is situated in the midst of the 
most fertile land in the State, and on the 
Kaweah River The country round about 
presents to the eye a beautiful appearance. 
Large oaks cover the plain in every di- 



CKOFUTT S XKAV OVERLAND TOL'IIISI' 



213 



reclion, aud orchards, j^ardens, vineyards, 
and well-cultivated tields are to be seeu on 
every hand. Visalia is the center of the 
rich section once known as the "Four 
Creek Country." 

Tlie town boasts of a $75,000 court-liouse, 
some good stores, gas-works, several big 
saw-mills, six hotels, three weekly news- 
papers — the Delta, Times, andiron Age — 
one bank, a flouring mill, a normal school, 
aud a number of public schools, and 
churches of various denominations. Stages 
run from Visalia to Glenville, Go miles. 

From Goshen, Visalia is entirely ob- 
scured from view by the tall oaks that 
abound in this section of the country on 
every side. These oaks are old and ragged, 
many are fast decaying, and when gone, 
the country will be nearly bare, as there 
are few young trees growing to take their 
places. 

At Goshen, is the end of the Visalia 
division of the " Central," and the com- 
mencement of the Tulare Division of the 
Southern Pacific — operated under a lease 
by the " Centi'al " company. Although 
this is the m)minal end of divisions, all 
changes, usual at such stations, are made 
10.5 miles further at 

Tulare — This is a new town, as it 
were, built up under the stimulating in- 
fluences of a railroad point where are lo- 
cated extensiv^e shops, round house, ware 
houses, and station buildings, incidental to 
its being the end of divisions. The town 
contains about 500 jiopulation, and is situ- 
a ed in the midst of a broad p^ain about 
20 miles cast of Tulare Lake, and is a 
thriving town. It is a point from which 
largj amounts of freight are shipped on 
wagons, to the adjoining country, and 
wliere wool in great quantities, is brought 
for shipment to San Francisco. 

The company's shops and grounds at 
this place — as is the case in some other lo- 
calities — are surrounded with rows of beau- 
tiful trees, chief of which is the " blue- 
gum." These trees, from a distance, give 
the place more the appearance of grounds 
surrounding some palatial residence, than 
where several hundred men are employed 
2nanipulaliug iron. These grounds are 
also covered with green sward, which is 
watered when necessary, by long hose con- 
nected with the works. 

Soon after leaving Tulare, we cross Deep 
and Tulare creeks, both narrow streams willi 
steep banks, rich soil, and lined with trees; 
the land is covered with a thick trrowth of 



short gra-s. Passing the neigborhood of 
these creeks, the country seems to suddenly 
change, aud at 

Tipton — 10.4 miles from Tulare, pre- 
sents a barren appeai ance. To the right, 
left and front, sheep abound, but not a tree 
or shrub. Five miles beyond Tipton, are 
groves of eucalyptus trees, immense num- 
bers of which are on both sides of the 
road. The lands here, that are irrigated at 
all, are supplied with windmills. Twelve 
miles from Tipton comes 

Alila — ^just after crossing Deer Creek. 

Tulare Lake, is about seven miles west 
of this station, and i s a body of water cov- 
ering an area of about 7,000 square miles, 
is nearly round, or 30 miles lon^ by 25 
miles in width, in Avhich fish in great 
varieties abound, as do ducks, geese, and 
other water fowl. 

Owens Lake — another large sheet of 
water, but not as large as Tulare by about 
one-fourth — is 78 miles from Alila, in a 
northeasterly direction. 

Passing on over White River, 8.3 miles, 
we comc"^ to Delano, a place of a half- 
dozen buildings, just in the edge of Kern 
county. The country along here is treeless 
and not very inviting. From Delano it is 
11.8 miles to Poso, and 11.8 miles more to 

liCrdo — To the southwest, about 40 
miles, are located the Buena Vista Oil 
AVorks, in a section of country where 
great quantities of oil are found in holes 
and ditches in the ground, where it is now 
waiting for enterprise to sink wells, build 
tanks for saving and market'Ug, when it 
will yield immense returns. This oil 
region is about eight miles by three in 
area. 

Passing on about nine miles, w'e come to 
Kern lliver, which we cross on a long 
trestle bridge. This river is one of the 
largest flowing from the Sierras, and even 
in a dry season, carries a large amount of 
water. 

SuiBiiiier — is the next station reached, 
12.4 miles from Lerdo. This is a very 
busy place of about 250 population, it 
being the dislributiug point for a large 
amount of freight. To the westward, one 
and a half miles, and connected by "buses" 
hourly, is 

Bakersfield — This town is the coimty 
seat of Kern county, and contains a popu- 
ulat. on of about 800. It is situated at the 
j unction of the two bi'anches of Kern River, 
has a $35,000 court house, a bank, several 
hotels, a flouring-mill and two weekly 



2U 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



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BIRDS-KYE VIEW OF THE LOOP, TEHACHAPI PASS. 



newspapers. Kern Lake is 14 miles 
south of west from Ealiersfield, and is 
about seven miles long by four wide. 
Six miles further is Buena Vista Lake, 
some larger. Around these lalces, and 
Tulare Lalie, the land is exceedingly 
rich. 

Kern Valley, in Avhich Bakersfield 
and these lakes are situated, is one of 
the richest in the State, being com- 
posed almost wholly of sedimentary 
deposits. Vegetables grow to fabulous 
pro])ortious,tho soil l>eing of tlie same 
nature as that in the " Mussel Slough 
Country" before named. 



The irrigating canals are extensive. 
One is over 40 miles in length, with a 
width of from 100 to 275 feet, eight feet 
deep, cost $100,000. Besides the canals 
there arc many farms that are irriga- 
ted by wells and wind-mills. There is 
one ranehe, nine miles fitDm Bakers- 
field, that contains 7,000 acres, on 
which are two flowing artesian wells, 
of seven inches bore, one 200 and the 
other 300 feet deep. From these wells 
the water rises twelve feet above the 
surface, and discharges over 80,000 
gallons per day. 

On this ranehe are over 150 iniies of 



>o. 4 J Annex. JViLouiit H»«iast^ — us siiowu 
in No. 1 r>, of our large views, is a prominent fea- 
ture in tli'3 landscaije of the Sacramento Valley, 
attlio head of which it is located. 

Th'j view is looking to the northeast. In thofore- 
gronndis the broad Valley of the Sacramento, 
then como toweriog forest trees, massive rocks, 
and a variety of foliage, npou -which altefnato 
patches of shade and sunlight are thrown with 
striking effect. Abovo all, towering high in mid- 
air, M.jni:t Shasta sprincjs, in a series of graceful 
curves, far up into an almost unclouded heaven, 
its sides and suhimits eulioldod in the eternal 
snows. The contrast between the verdure-clad 
valley and the cold, wintry peaks of old Shasta, 
king of mountains, is a chief interest in the pic- 
ture, reminding the spectator of some of the most 
striking effects of Alpine scenerv. IMt. Shasta 
is 14,-14.0 feet hi::h. (See page I GO.) 



!*<». -iU A.N'.vii.K. 'S'K** lai'tjo view.No. i«, o^^ 

San Francisco and the Golden Gate, is a real mul' 
tuni iiijtnrvo — a complete bird's eye view of the 
city of San Francisco and its surroundiags, cov- 
ering a scope of country about twelve miles in 
diameter — showing the Golden Gate, portions of 
San Francisco Bay, the I'aciflc Ocean in the dis- 
t.inco, and the Pier of the Central Pacific rail- 
road in the foreground, from whence passengers 
are transferred across the bay to " Frisco. " This 
beautiful picture has been prepared find engraved 
expressly for this book. It shows what the God- 
dess of "American Progress "—as represented by 
view No. 1— hag accomplished within the past 
few years, and is a very appropriate illustration 
with which to close our series of large views from 
Ocean to Ocean. 

Crofutt's Grip-Sack Guide tells all about Co- 
lorado. Sold on the trains. 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



215 




CROSbING THE LOOP OVER TUNNEL NO. 9, TEHACHAPI PASS. 



canalrf and irrigatin.i? ditches, 32 miles 
of hog- tight board fence; 4,000 acres 
are under cultivation, 3,000 of which 
are in alfalfa, from which four and six 
crops a year are cut. Neai'cr Balcers- 
field, the same party, Mr. H. P. Liver- 
more, has another large ranche, with 
500 acres in alfalfa, and 3,000 in wheat 
and barley. On these ranches arc 
8,000 sheep, 4,000 stock cattle, 300 cows, 
350 horses, 100 oxen, 70 mules, and 1,- 
500 hogs. The same party makes all 
his own reapers, mowers, harvesters, 
plows, harrows, threshing machines 
and cultivators — everj'thing in use on 
the place, except steam engines. He 
has one plow, the " Great Western," 



which is said to be the largest in the 
world. It weighs something over a ton 
and is hauled by 80 oxen, cutting a 
furrow five feet wide and three feet 
deep, and moving eight miles a day. 
Another plow called " Sampson," is 
used for ditching, and requires 40 
mules to work it. 

Another party in the county has 40,- 
000 sheep, 2,000 acres in alfalfa, and 
raises fiO, 000 bushels of grain. Another 
poor fellow raised, in 1877, 84.000 lbs. 
of pumpkins and sweet potatoes; 
some of the former weighed 210 lbs., 
and of the latter some weighed 154 
pounds. While attending to these lit- 
tle vegetables, lie would occasionally 



X«>, 37 Amxex. Fal»« of tlio ■^"I'i" 'amet'o 

Itiver.^The scene of the lai-ge illustration, No. 
9, represents the Falls of the Willamette Kivcr, 
at Oregon City, Oregon, where the hills approach 
the river on each side, forcing the ri-\-er through 
a deep canyon, and over a fall of from 30 to 40 
feet. Tho clitfs on either side of the river ri«o 
abruptly hundreds of f^^etiu height, and ara cov- 



ered at the top and less i^rccipitous places,with a 
growth of evergreens. Licks aie built on the 
Oregon City side of the river, large enough ti ad- 
mit the ijassage of boats 200 feet long and 40 feet 
in -width. Water power is also supplied from the 
same Boiircc of 4,000 horse powers, which is used 
for running woolen mills and other manufactories 
at Oregon City. 



21(3 



CROFUTTS NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



look after a small band of sixteen thousand 
sheep. 

But enough of this. We could fill our 
book with these and many otlier astonish- 
ing figures. " Well," you will say, ' these 
California farmers should be contented and 
bai^py men." OiUi would think so, but 
lliey are not. They are the most inveterate 
grumblers of any class of people in the 
world. All Californians will, in the inter- 
vals between grumbles, express the opinion 
that there is no place under the blue canopy 
of heaven so good for a white rtian to live 
in as California. Ah, welll are they cor- 
rect? Fers'HiaHy, were it necessary, our 
affirm could be fbrthcoming. 

Returning to Summer, twelve miles, 
Ibrings us to a small place called Pampa, 
an 1 7 3 miles more to 

C»ftlieiite— Since leaving Summer, the 
grade has increased ; the valley has been 
gradually narrowing by the closing in of 
the mountain ranges on each side, leaving 
only a narrow strip of land. Rearing this 
station, it still more contracts, until a deep 
canyon is reached, in the mouth of which 
is located Caliente, surrounded by towering 
clift's. There are several -tores, one hotel 
and a large station and freight warehouse 
at this place. A large amountof freight is 
re-shipped at this point, on wagons, for the 
surrounding country. Stages leave this 
station daily for Havilah, 25 miles; Kern- 
ville, 45 miles; fare about 14 cents per 
mile. These stages carry passengers, mails 
and express. Tourists should now note 
the elevations; Caliente is 1,'?90 feet above 
sea level ; within the next 25 miles the train 
will rise to the summit of Tehachapi Pass, 
to an a titude of 3,964 feet, an average of 
over lOG feet to the mile. Within this dis- 
tance we shall find some of the grandest 
scenery on the whole line ; will pass through 
8evente< >i tunnels, with an aggregate 
length of 7,683.9 feet, and then "over the 
LOOP," one of the greatest engineering feats 
in the workl ; feat where a railroad islike a 
good Roman Catholic — madeto cross itself. 
But here, the difi'erence is in favor of the 
,ra Iroad, as these Califotnians v/ill always 
be a l-e-e-tle ahead; it does its crossing on a 
run, upgrade, tnwardheim n- [Any design 
to indicate the route of the good Catholic i s 
disclaimed.] See illustrations on paares 
214 and 215. 

Away up the canyon, the grade of tlie 
road can be seen at a number of places 
where it winds around the points of pro- 
jecting mountain spurs, from which points 



we will sonn be able to look down upon 
Caliente. 

Leaving the station, our route will be 
found illustiattd on page 214. Caliente 
is at the foot of the mountains, at the e.x:- 
treme further end of the dotted line, which 
indicates the course of the road, and shows 
its windings, the Loop and the surrounding 
country, on a flat surface. As we ascend 
the narrow canyon, the road gradually 
commences to climb the side of the c itt's 
on the right, leaving the bed of the canyon 
far below, on the left. Up, up, around 
rocky points and the head of small ravines, 
over high embankments, through deep 
cuts, and tunnels " One " and ' Two," a dis- 
tance of 5 3 miles from Caliente, we arrive at 

Hoalville — This is a small station 
named in honor of General Beal. late 
minister to Austria, who owned 200,000 
acres of land in tiiis county. 

Oaks, cedar and spruce trees are to be 
seen in the gorges and on the mountain 
side, where a sufficient soil is left between 
the rocks and an occasional shrub of the 
manzanita, along the road. Continuing 
our climb, the ravines are deeper at every 
turn ; tunnels No. three, four and five are 
passed through, each revealing in its turn, 
new wonders and rapid changes. No. five 
tunnel is the longest on this "Pass." after 
passing which and No six tunnel, the can- 
yons on the left become a fearful gorge. 

Just after emerging from the sixtii tun- 
nel, by looking away down the canyon, 
Caliente can be seen, and at the rounding 
of nearly every mountain spur for some 
miles further. Continuing our climb, 
winding around long rocky points and the 
head of deep ravines, twisting and turning 
to gain altitude, the scenery is wondrous in 
its rapid changes. The old Los Angeles 
and ^an Francisco wagon road can be 
seen in places, where it. too, winds around 
the side of the mountain, and in others, 
along the little ravines anil larger canyons. 

The opposite mountains now loom up in 
hug(! proportions, rocky, jieaked and rag- 
ged, a full thousand feet above our heads, 
and double that amount above the bottom 
of the canyon below. Soon alter passing 
tunnel- seven and eight ; agai n we look down 
from dizzy heights into ft a rf id, fearful 
chasms, tip along curve to the right, and 
we are at a jioint where the mountains, 
from ten to twenty miles to the south and 
westward can be seen, the peaks of many 
covered with snow. 

M.eene— is reached 8.3 miles from 



AXD PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



217 



Bcalville. This station is not au impor- 
taut one, and trains do not always stop, but 
pass on, across two bridges in quicli suc- 
cession, many deep gravel-cuts, and then, 
after curving to tlie'jiglit, we approacli 
the " Loop " and tunnel "No. nine. Passing 
through tliis tunnel, we start ou the grand 
curve around the " Loop," and soon find our- 
selves o«e?' the tunnel Rud in the position 
of the train as illustrated on page 215. 

This "Loop" is 340 miles from San 
Francisco, is 3,795 feet in length, with 
an elevation of 2,956 feet at the lower 
and 3,084 feet at the upper ti'aok, making 
a difference between tracks, of 78 feet. 

Leaving the "Loop," our tram continues 
to climb and curve, first to the left, then 
to the right, and after passing through two 
more tunnels, Nos. 10 and 11, conies to 
^Oerard — a station 5.4 miles from 
Keene, more in name than fact. Here 
the old Tehachaiii Pass stage road ap- 
pears. The mountains are not as high 
above us, but are rough, broken, and 
ragged, covered in many places with 
stunted, scrubby pines and cedars. Rolling 
on, we pass tlirough, in quick succession, 
tunnels Nos. 12, 13, 14, 15, 16 and 17, be- 
sides a number of short bridges, and come 
to more open ground; pass Gracevil'e, 
once an old stage station— on the right, 
and 6.4 miles from Gerard arrive at 

Tehachapi l^miiiiiit— elevation, 
3,964feet— the highest on the road. This 
station consists of one store, a liotel, tele- 
graph office, and half-a-dozen buildings. 
To the southeast about five miles distant, 
a marble quarry is reported, of good 
quality. The station is situated ou a high 
grassy plateau, of a few thousand acres, 
with high mountain ranges to the east and 
west, and although near" 4,000 feet in alti- 
tude the climate is so mild and agree- 
able that some years the crops are very 
good, and grazing excellent. JNIany sheep 
are to be seen in the valley and on the 
hills which are covered with fine grass. 

Leaving the summit, we run along this 
plateau for a few miles, and then commence 
a gradual descent towards the Mojava 
Desert. To the right is a small lake— dry 
in summer — wherc'salt can be shoveled up 
by the wagon load. About eight miles 
from the Summit, the little valley down 
which we have been rolling, narrows to a 
few liundred feet with high canyon walls 
on each side. 

Cameron — is the first station from 
Summit, 9.2 miles distant, of little account. 



Near this station we fiud the first of the 
snecies of cactus, as illustrated on page 
221. In this country they are called the 

Yucca Palm — These trees grow quite 
large, sometimes attaining a diameter of 
from two to tlireefeet, and a height of from 
40 to 50 feet. They are peculiar to the ]\Io. 
Java Desert, where they grow in immense 
numbers, presenting the appearance, at a 
distance, of au orchard of fruit trees. 
Everything is said to have its uses, and 
this cactus, or \)a\m — ai)pareutly the most 
worthless of all things that grow, is being 
utilized in the manufacture of paper, and 
with very good results. One mill is al- 
ready in operation at Ravena, and consid- 
erable shipments have been made. The 
supply of " raw material " is cer;ainly 
abundant, and if the quality of the paper 
is as good as reported, the Mojava Desert 
may be able to show cause why it was 
created. 

Leaving Cameron, our train speeds along 
lively, ana 5.2 miles we come to 

Kadean — soon after emerging from 
the canyon. It is a side-track surrounded 
by s.ige-brush, sand hills and cactus. Away 
to the left are several lakes, dry the greater 
portion of the year, but having the appear- 
ance of water at all times, owing to the 
water being very salt, and leaving a thick 
deposit on the bed of the lake when dry. 

From Nadeau, it is 5.6 miles to the end 
of the Tulare division, at 

Mojava — (Pronounced Mo-ha-vey.) 
At times, the " Mojava Zephyr " is any- 
thing but a genVe zephyr, j-et, by using 
both hands, any person of ordinary strength 
can keep their hat on. The surroundings 
of this place are not very beautiful, situ- 
ated as it is on a desert; but for its size, it 
is a busy place. It is a regular eating 
station where trains stop half an hour, and 
good meals are served, at the Mojava 
House, close to the depot — on Main St. 
The place consists of several stores, one 
hotel, large station building and freight 
u-arehouse, a 15-stall j ound-house, a repair 
and machine shop and about a dozen pri- 
vate residences. 

The water used at the station comes in 
pil)es from Cameron station, eleven miles 
uorlh. A large amount of freight is re- 
shipped from this station ou wagons to 
Darwin, 100 miles, and Independence, 168 
miles, in Inyo county — to the northeast — 
on the east side of the Sierra Nevada 
Mountains. Eeturning, these, wagons are 
loaded with bullion from the mines. Tlie 



218 



CROFUTT S NEAV OVERLAND TOURIST 



Cerro Gordo Freighting Co., who do most 
of this freight hauling, employ 700 head of 
animals. 

Stages leave Mojava every alternate day, 
carrying passengers, mails and express to 
Darwin, 100 miles : Cerro Gordo, 135 miles ; 
Lone Pine, 150 miles, and Independence, 
168 mile--* to the northeast; fare, 14 cents 
per mile. 

Mojava is the commencement of the Los 
Angeles Division. The proposed route of 
the Southern Pacific railroad — as successor 
of ihe rights granted to the old Atlantic 
and Paciiic Co , to the Colorado River, at 
the Needles — diverge? at this point, and 
runs due east. The lowest point of the 
Mojava Plains crossed by the railroad sur- 
vey, is at the sink of the Mojava River, 
188 miles east. Its elevation is 960 feet, 
the highest point being 3,935 feet, at the 
summit of Granite Pass. The crossing of 
the Colorado, at the Needles, is 254 miles 
east from Mojava. 

Leaving Mojava, our course is south, 
over the desert, from which rise great 
numbers of round buttes; they are of all 
sizes, from a half-acre at the base, to 
several acres ; from one hundred to five 
hundred feet in heiglit. Most of these 
buttes run to a peak, and are grooved or 
worn out bv the elements into small 



ravines, from summit to base, presenting a 
peculiar appearance. The cactus, or palms, 
are very numerous. 

Passing Gloster, 6.6 miles from Mo- 
java, where there is not even aside-track, 
and 7.2 miles further, we arrive at 

^and Creek — where trains seldom 
stop. To the left, ten miles, is Mirage 
Lake, which looks like water, but is 
mostly sand and alkali. (For a descrip- 
tion of this remarkable phenomena, see 
page 142.) 

feoledad Mountain can now be seen on 
our right, through which our road finds a 
way, but where and how, does not appear. 
Large numbers of sheep range over these 
plains at timts, and appear to thrive. 

From Sand Ch'eek, it is eleven miles to 
L.\NCASTER, a side-track, and 10.9 miles 
further we come to 

Alpine — For the last twenty miles 
the ))alms have been very numerous, but 
we shall soon leave them and the desert. 
Scrub cedar, sand cuts — some very deep — 
are now in order, while rapidlv climbing 
up to the summit of the buiedad Pass, 
which we reach four miles from Alpine, 
crossing it at an elevation of 3,211 feet, and 
then descend to 

Acton — a distance of 0.7 miles from 
Alpine. This is an unimportant station 



]V«. SU Annex. Pioneer Mail Eiiter- 

pri>»es — Crossing the Sierras on Snow- 
Skates. — The rapid settlement of the fertile val- 
leys lyiug at the eastern base of th:i High Hiei-ras 
of Caiifornia, created a want for maii facilities iu 
advance of regular methods. It is well known 
that previoiis to the winter of 18.")4, the fearless 
settlers of this isolated inland world were shut 
out from communion with the great throbbing 
heart of civilization on the outside for three or 
four months of every year, by that almost inac- 
cessible and snow-clad range. Those whose te- 
merity let events bid defiance to this battle- 
ground of the storms, and sought to scale its 
snowy-ramparts, too frequently became snow- 
blind, or foi)t-frozen: or, still more freijueujly, 
lay down to that sleep which knows no waking — 
their only mantle the fast-falling snow. 

In this emergency one brave heart, at least, 
was found to dare the perilous task of carrying 
the UnitfHl States mail to those enterprising i)io- 
neers. It was Mr. John A. Thompson, a Norwe- 
gian. Early education and habit had made him 
an adept in the use of tho snow skate. "Without 
hesitation he made a contract with T. J. Matte- 
sou, of Murphy's Camp, Calaveras county, to 
continue postal service in winter, as well as in 
summer, over the route, via the Calaveras grove 
of big trees (the only grove then known), to Car-. 
son City, for S'200 per month, without regard to 
the depth of suow. 

Our illustration introduces our hero in propria 
personam. It will be seen at a glance that the 
snow-skate is totally unlike the Indian or Cana- 



dian snow-shoe — the latter being adapti'd mainly 
t ) a light, loose suow aud level country ; and the 
former to compact masses aud mountainous dis- 
tricts. The " shoe," moreover, is of slow snd la- 
borious use ; whereas, the " skate " is of exceed- 
ingly rapid and exhilirating adaptability — espe- 
cially on down grades, when its speed is fre- 
quently cqiial to the ordinary locomotive. The 
motion is a slide -not a step. The pole in the 
mail carrier's hand acts as a brake on down 
grades, and as a propeller up hill. 

In Sierra c<niuty, Cahforuia, where snow often 
falls to the depth of ten or twelve feet, tho snow- 
skat j is a great favt^rite, becoming a source of 
jileasant recreation on moon-lit evenings — visits 
uf from ten to fifteen miles being made after tea, 
and returning the same evening. Here, foo, 
snow-skating forms one of the most popular of 
liastimes — racing. A belt, studded and set with 
silver, becomes the prize of the successful racer. 
Sometimes young ladies will chadengo gentle- 
men to a race for a pocket hau'lkerchief ,or a pair 
of gloves— which, of course, is always accepted. 
The accidents which sometimes occur throw no 
damper on the sijort. See page 60, 

Tue Nio ra Xevada Mountains — are 
about 500 miles long, and fi-om 60 to 1 ( )0 miles in 
width, their general direction northwest and 
southeast. The height of the principal peaks are 
--Mt. Whitney, 1.5,088 feet; Williams, 11,500; 
Shista, 14,411 ; TvnduU, 14,386 ; Raweah, 14,000 ; 
Gardner, 14,000; King, 14,000; Brewer, 13,886; 
Dana, 13,227; Lyell, 13,117; Castle Peak, 13,000; 
Cathedral Peak, 11,000 ; Lassen's, 10,578 feet. 



AND I'ACIFIC COAST GUIDK. 



219 



near the head of the infamous ISoledaU, 
Canyon, known as the " Robbers' Roost." 
This canyon is a deep gorge, with 
rugged, towering mountain clifJs rising 
on eacli side, in places from 500 to 2,000 
feet above the bed of the canyon, the 
fronts ofwliich look as thougli tliey liad 
been slashed by the hand of the great 
Architect, from summit to base, into nar- 
row, deep ravines, and then left, present- 
ing as Avild, gloomy and dismal gorges as 
the most vivid imagination can conceive. 
These, with the dense growth of pines, 
cedar and shrubs, make the mountains 
almost impenetrable, and all that the most 
wary villain could desire. 

The canyon is about 25 miles in length, 
inhabited mostly by Mexicans. It was the 
headquarters and home of the noted 
Vasqui s, and liis robber band, who was 
hung at Sau Jose, March 19, 1875. Later, 
a band of a dozen or more raided Calicnte, 
binding and gaging all who came in their 
way, and after loading tlieir riding ani- 
mals with all they coukl carry, returned to 
tJds their rendezvous. By a shrewd plan, 
five of the number were captured, and 
lodged in jail at Bakersfield, from which 
they Avere taken by the citizens and hung 
without much expense to the county. But 
with all their devilment, the trains and 
railroad property have always been secure. 
At tlie next station, the brother of this 
noted chief resides, against whom, as we 
understand, there st;ind no accusations. 

Passing on down, the canyon widens, and 
Cottonwood, sycamore and a few oaks and 
willows line tlie litlle creek, which ripples 
over the sands. Mining, to some extent, 
is carried on by t' e Mexicans living here, 
but in a primitive way, using arastras, with 
water, liorse, hand, and, in three cases, 
steam power. 

Raveiia — is the next station, 3.7 miles 
horn. Acton. Here are heated a village of 
several dozen log, sod and stone houses, be- 
longing to the JVIexicans, and the paper 
mill, before alluded to, as utilizing the 
yucca palm for making paper. 

AVe were told at this place that "moss 
agates and grizzly bears abound," but just 
why the two should be coupled together, 
we are not informed. 

About one mile below Ravena, on the 
left, away up on the side of the mountain, 
600 feet above our train, is a huge rock, 
called George Washington, from the fact 
that it bears a striking likeness to the 
"father of his country," who, it seems 



has left his impress all over his country. 
Continuing down, the canyon narrows; 
the blutfy walls on each side assume 
more formidable features, and in fact is 
the most formidable portion of the can- 
yon, the rugged spurs shooting out as 
though they would bar our farther progress. 
Twoof tliese spurs did bar the progress 
of our way, until tunnels were completed 
through them, which aggregate 59(3 feet in 
length. 

Timber can be seen on the tops of the 
mountains, and in the largest of the deep 
ravines, but inaccessible, from the un- 
usual ruggedness of its surroundings. 
Lime-rock abounds and game, both large 
and small, is very numerous, including 
the grizzly bear. When we passed this 
way in January, 1878, Mr. Lang, of Lang's 
Station, close ahead, had killed one of 
tliese bears that weighed 900 pounds, and 
Lang called it a small one. 

Liang; — is a small station, 8.5 miles be- 
low Ravena, and about half-a-mile west of 
where the "last spike" was driven, Sept. 
5th, 1870, that united the line, building from 
Los Angeles and San Francisco. The 
bottom, below the station, widens, sand 
hills and sand beds appear, as well as 
sheep, on the adjoining hills, Tfhich are 
now lower, with grassy sides; and 13. 1 
miles from Lang, and our train stops at 

]Si^e>vIiall— a small station named 
for a Mr. Newhall, who owns 50,000 acres 
of laud in the vicinity, on which range 
thousands of cattle and sheep. The South- 
ern Plotel with accommodations for 150 
guests, a beautiful ])ark, and a planted grove 
of trees are among the late improvements. 
Stages leave this station daily for Ven- 
tura, 50 miles; Santa Barbara, 80 miles; 
San Louis Obispo, 1!)0 miles; Paso-R(»l)le3 
Hot Springs, 220, and 6oledad, 300 miles, 
at the end of the Smithern Paeific railroad, 
in Salinas Valley, as noted in excursion 
No. 5. These stages carry passengers, 
mails and express. 

We now confront the San Fernando 
Mountains on the south, which rise up be- 
fore us, towering to the skies, in one great 
black solid mass, apparently presenting an 
in-' penetrable barrier to our further progress. 
Such was the case until the engineers of 
this road, failing to find any way overihem, 
resolved to pierce throufjh'tliem, wiiich was 
done, resulting in a tunnel 0,967 feet long, 
built in a straight line and timbered all the 
way. These mountains, as stated, are 
high, rising up out of the valley from 



-22(1 



( KOFUTT S XEW OVEULAXD TOTUIST 



2,500 to 3,000 feet, but narrow— a huge 
•" liog-back " ridge. Leaving Newliall, it is 
1.0 miles to 

Andre ivs — To the west of this station, 
about four miles, are located teveral oil 
wells, in a region said to be very rich in 
oil. Two refineries have been established 
at this station, which lurnish for shipment 
about one car-load per day. Live oaks and 
some wh te oaks are numerous along the 
road aud on the sides of the low-hills, 
for the last fifteen miles, making the 
country look more cheerful than it other- 
wise would. 

Leaving Andrews, we soon commence to 
ascend, passing through deep cuts to the 

San Fernando Tunnel — This tunnel, 
as before stated, is 0,907 feet in length, 
timbered all the way, and is reached from 
the north up a grade of 110 feet per mile ; 
grade in tunnel, 37 feet per mile; grade be- 
yond tunnel— south -for five miles, 100 feet 
per mile; elevation of tunnel, 1,400 leet. 
The view, from the rear end of the car, 
while passing through the tunnel, is quite 
an interesting one. 

The light, on entering the great bore, is 
large and bright, the smooth rails glisten 
like burnished silver in the sun's rays. 
Gradually ttie light lessens in brilliancy; 
the rails become two long ril)'jons of silver, 
sparkling through the impenetrable dark- 
ness; gradually these lessen, the light 
fades — and fades, and fades — the entrance 
is apparently not larger than a pin's head, 
and then ail light is gone and darkness 
reigns supreme — and still Ave are not 
through. It is the history of many a life : 
the hriglit hopes of youth expire tcith age. 

As we emerge from the tunnel, the valley 
of San Fernando dawns a l)right vision of 
beauty upon us. Here we enter, as it were, 
a new world of verdure and fruitfulne-s — a 
land literally " flowing with milk and 
houey." From the tunnel we have de- 
scended rapidly, 5.3 miles to 

San Fernando— named for the 
famous old mission of San Fernando, lo- 
cated about two miles to the right, embow- 
ered in lovel}' groves of orange, lemon and 
ol ive trees. It is in the middle of the valley 
of the same name, surrounded by moun- 
tain ranges. The San Fernando Moun- 
tains are on the east and north, the Coast 
Range on the West, and the Sierra Smta 
Monica on the west and south. The 
greater portion of the western and central 
part of the valley is under a high state of 
-cultivation, but the eastern, along whei'e 



our road is built, is covered with sage- 
brush, cactus, grease-wood, small cedars 
and mesquite shrubs. 

The station is of little account— only a 
few buildings, a store, hotel, cattle pen and 
shutes make up the place. Leaving the 
station, we pass groves of planted irees; 
those on the right, of the eucalypti species. 

Sepulveda— is the next station, 12.5 
miles south of San Fernando. It is situated 
on the east bank of Los Angeles River, 
where passenger trains meet and pass. 
Continuing along down the valley — which 
now begins to present an improved appear- 
ance— y.6 miles we come to East Los 
Angeles. 

£os Angeles .fnnction— is sit- 
uated about one mile east of the city, from 
which street-cars run regularly; fare, 10 
cents or four tickets for 25 certs. The 
lii-incipal hotels, the Pico and St. Charles, 
charge from $2 to $3 per day ; the United 
States and Lafayette from |1.50 to $3.00, all 
of which send buses to the depot, on ar- 
rival of trains. 

XiOS Anjjeles ! — xVh, here we are at 
the " City of the Angels !" Los Angeles is 
the county seat of Los Angeles county, 
situated on the Los Angeles River, 34 
miles north from the port of San Pelro; 
but the principal shipping point is at 
Wilmington, about two miles ahove San 
Pedro, at the head of the l>aj', with which 
it is connected by railroad 33 miles dis- 
tant. It is also connected with Santa 
^lonica by rail, 18 miles to the westward, 
where steamers land from up and down 
the coast. The city contains a population 
of about 10,000— has many fine business 
blocks, three banks, several large, flue 
hotels, chief of which is the Pico. The 
churches and school i are all that could 
be de.sired, both in numbers and qualit}'. 
There are four daily, seven weekly, and 
a number of miscellaneous publications. 
Tlie dailies are: the Star,Exprei>s Ileridd, 
and the R'puhlican. 

Water for irrigation in the city is sup- 
plied by Los Angeles River, and by wind- 
mills. The manufactories are not very 
numerous, the shops of the Railroad Com- 
pany being the principal ones. The town 
is a railroad center, commanding an ex- 
tensive trade at present, and in t c future 
it fears no rival. It is already connected 
with Santa Monica, on the west, 18 miles; 
Wilmington, on the south, 33 miles; Santa 
Ana, on the southeast, 33 miles; Yuma, on 
the east, 348 mil"s, and San Francisco, 



AXD PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



221 



norlli, 470 miles. Los 
Angeles is an old town, 
having been settled in 
1771. It is located at the 
southern base of the 
Sierra Santa Monica 
range on a gradual 
slope, and is completely 
embowered in foliage. 
The vineyards, in and 
around the city, are very 
numerous ; they are to be 
seen on all sides, equaled 
only by the number of 
orange, lemon, and fruit 
orchards. It is really a 
city of gardens and 
groves. Then, as one 
rides to the westward, 
or the southward, mag- 
nificent plantations 
stretch away as far as thi 
eye can reach. Here is 
the wealth of the tropics ; 
here can be seen the 
orange, lemon, lime, 
pomegranate, fig, and 
all kinds of tropical and 
semi-tropical fruits, at- 
taining to the greatest 
perfection; here will be 
seen the huge palm-tree, 
the banana, the beautiful 
Italian and Monterey 
cypress, the live oak, 
pepper, and the eucalyp- 
tus, as well aa the orange 
trees in the grounds and 




YUCCA PALM OF jMojAVA DESERT. See page 217. 



and lemon 
parks, gar- 
dens and lawns, of almost every citizen's 
residence. One orchard — situated in 
the heart of the city, the " Wolfkill " — con- 
tains 100 acres. Jn this orchard are 2,600 
orange trees, 1.000 lime, and 1,800 lemon 
trees; besides, there are adjoining 100 
acres in vineyard. But why particularize V 
Look where you will, and you will see 
vineyards and orchards laden with luscious 
fruits, and will be re:tdy to exclaim: 
"Why, oh, why was 'mother Eve' 
driven outV" 

Leaving Los Angeles, we W'ill take the 
cars on the 

Los Angeles axd Independence Rail- 
road — under the management of the 
" Central " Company, of which Mr. E. K. 
Hewett is Ass't Superintendent, and 
speed away to the westward. The tirst 
few miles is through the edge of the city, 
and then past a succession of vineyards, 



orange and fruit orchards, nurseries and 
groves of planted trees. Then come 
broad fields and pretty little farm-houses; 
then through a succession of deep sand 
cuts, and the broad ocean appears, and then 
li^anta Monica— called by some 
the " Long Branch of the Pacific Coast." 
It is certainly a beautiful location, and if 
it does not attain the same popularity as 
its namesake, oa the Jersey shore, it will 
not be for lack of natural advantages. Its 
location is one of surpassing loveliness-— 
in front the Pacific Ocean ; in the back- 
ground the noble range of the Sierra 
Madre. Far out to the seaward looms up 
mistily the island of Catalina. The facili- 
ties for bathing could hardly be better. 
The beach is fine, the sand hard and 
smooth, and the slope gradual, with na 
terrors of imdertow to appal timid swim- 
mers. The ]>lace is protected from cold 
winds by a prominent head-land, and the 
climate is very ec^uable. 



222 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



The following table shows the mean tem- 
perature of January and July in Califor- 
Bia and other States and countries, taken 
from reliable sources: 



Place. 



San Francisco. 

Monterey 

Santa Barbara . 
Lo-i Angeles . .. 
Santa Monica.. 
San Diego . .. . 

.Sacramento 

Humboldt Bay. 

Sonoma 

Vallejo 

Fort Yuma 

Cincinnati 

New York 

New Orleans... 

Naples 

Honolulu 

Mexico 

London 

Bordeaux 

Mentone 

Marseilles 

Genoa 



Jan'y 


July. 


Differ- 1 
ence. 


Des'e 


Dege 


Degre 


49 




8 


5i 


5 


6 


54 


7 


17 


5C 


1> 


23 


52 


69 


17 


51 


72 


21 


45 


73 


28 


40 


58 


18 


45 


66 


21 


48 


67 


19 


56 


92 


36 


30 


74 


44 


31 


77 


42 


■ 55 


82 


27 


4G 


76 


80 


71 


78 


7 


52 


65 


13 


37 


6?i 


25 


41 


73 


32 


40 


73 


33 


43 


75 


32 


46 


77 


31 



Latitude 



Deg. min. 
37 48 



36 
24 
04 
02 
41 
34 
44 
13 
05 
43 
06 
37 
57 
52 
16 
26 
29 
50 
41 
17 
24 



It will be seen by referring to the above 
table that Southern California possesses a 
climate unexcelled in equability by any 
portion of the world, and of the happiest 
medium between the extremes of heat and 
cold. Santa Monica has these advantages 
of temperature in a special degree, the air 
being modified by the ocean to a point 
most agreeable ami invigorating, both to 
the pleasure-set ker and the invalid. 

The bathing house, situated on the beach, 
about lifiy feet above the water, is the 
finest on the coast. It is a large building 
sujiplied with baths of all kind.s, where the 
bathers liave within reach, faucets by which 
a supply of either fresh or salt water, hot 
or cold, can be instantly obtained by the 
effort of turning them on. Here, too, are 
steam, swimming, and plunge baths, be- 
sides the ordinary ocean baths, accommo- 
dations for which ample provision is made. 

Santa Monica was tirst laid out as a town 
in 1875, and in two years attained a popu- 
lation of 800. It has some good stores, and 
quite a number of good hotels, chief of 
which are the Santa Monica Hotel, and 
Ocean House; the latter has accommoda- 
tions for about 50 guests, and the former 
for 125. These houses are so situated as to 
command a most extensive view. Their 
charges are from $12 to $18 per week. 
S»nt* Monica had its newspaper once 
— the Outlook — but we hear it has 



moved, and is now a lookrotU at Ana- 
heim. 

Point Dumas, a prominent head-land to 
the northwest, is 13 miles distant. Point 
Vincent, to the southwest, is 20 miles 
distant. Santa Rosa Island, west, is 91 
miles distant; Santa Barbara Island, south 
of west, is 25 miles distant; San Nicholas 
Island, 87 miles in the same direction, and 
Santa Catalina Island, south, is about 40 
miles distant. These islands are a great 
protection to Santa Monica from the wrath 
of old Pacific, when he becomes excited. 

The wharf, which was built from the 
end of the railroad to deep water, affording 
a landing for coast steamers, was destroyed 
in 1878, but we presume will be rebuilt. 

in the range of the mountains on the 
north, game of many varieties can be 
found, and in the lagoons south of the 
town, ducks, geese, snipe, curlews, and 
other varieties of game are abundant. 

The drives are very fine, being along the 
beach for many miles, and then, on the 
high plateau 500 feet above, extending for 
many miles, affording a most extended 
view ; or, up to the natural springs on the 
side of the mountain, which furnish the 
town with water, bubbling up like a 
fountain, and is caught in a large basin or 
pond, for city use. 

A popular excursion is up Santa Mo- 
nica Canyon to Manville Glen — a wild, 
rugged mountain-place covered with old 
forest trees, down which ripples one of the 
neatest little brooks imaginable. The 
point of the mountain above has become a 
very popular camping giound, where 
camps are made, and parties spend months 
in rambling over the mountains and en- 
joying the ocean baths, etc. 

There are some beautiful countiy resi- 
dences about Santa !Monica, among which 
is one of Senator Jones, of Nevada. 

Returning to Los Angeles, we take the 

Wilmington Division — and start di- 
rectly south through a succession of vine- 
yards, gardens, orange and fruit orchards, 
to Florence, six miles from Los Angeles. 
At this station the track of the San Diego 
Division branches off" to the left. But we 
continue south, through broad, well-culti- 
vated fields, where the good efiects of irri- 
gation are shown, by large crops of vege- 
tables, which abound in the section we are 
now traversing. Gradually the rich soil 
gives place to alkaline and salt flats, and 
sloughs, with occasionally a few bands of 
sheep on the mpre elevated lands. 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



223 



About two miles before reaching Wil- 
mington, we pass, on the right, embowered 
in trees, the old headquarters of the Mili- 
tary Department, of Southern California 
and Arizona, abandoned in 1870. When 
the Government had no further use for the 
property it was sold, and is now used by the 
Protestants, and called Wilson's College. 

Wilmmgton contains a population of 
about 500, most of whom are engaged in 
the shipping interests. At the long wharf 
are great warehouses, beside which, vessels 
drawing twelve feet of water, can lay and 
load and unload from and into the cars 
of the railroad, which run the whole 
length of the wharf. Vessels drawing 
15 feet of water can cross the bar, two 
miles below, but are unable to reach the 
wharf, and are unloaded two miles below. 

Inside the bar is a ship channel, per- 
fectly sheltered, several miles in length, 
with a width of from 400 to 500 feet, and a 
depth, at low tide, of from 20 to 25 feet, 
shoaling at its head to 12 feet. 

The Government has expended over half a 
million of dollars to improve the harbor at 
this place; the breakwater is G,700 feet 
long, and when completed, it will be of 
incalculable advantage to the people of 
this section of country. 

Wilmington is a point where immense 



quantities of ties and redwood lumber are 
landed from the Humboldt Bay country, 
200 miles north of San Francisco, on the 
coast, and also where are landed large 
quantities of coal from the Liverpool ves- 
sels that come here to load with grain. The 
coal is brought for ballast, more than for 
profit. 

Rattlesnake Island is in front of the liar- 
bor — sand principally San Pedro Point 
is two miles south, and Point Fermin, 
around that point to the we-t, reached by 
wagon-road around the beach or over the 
blutfs, six miles distant Deadman's 
Island is a small,isolated rocky peak, where 
commences the breakwater improvement 
below Point Pedro. 

Fermin Point is on the most prominent 
headland on the west, surmounted with a 
light of the first order, [which is kept by 
two ladies.] Near this point, in stone, is 
the subject of our illustration, below, 
called San Pedro's Wife or the " Woman 
OF THE Period." 

The distance from Wilmington by 
steamer to San Francisco is 387 miles; to 
San Diego, 95 miles ; to Santa Catalina 
Island, 20 miles. This ' sland is owned by 
the Lick estate, is 35 miles long and ten 
wide, on which are some gold mines, and 
great numbers of sheep and goats. 




SAN Pedro's wife or, thp woman of the period. 



22-1 



CROFUTT S NEW OVEULAXD TOUIUST 



The Island San Clemente is 30 miles 
further, a lon^, narrow strip of land, on 
which there is no water, where range 
thousands of sheep and goats, which seem 
to thrive better than on Santa Catalina 
Island, where water is abundant. 

Returning again to Los Angeles, we 
start over the 

Han Diego Division. 

Leaving Los Angeles, the course is the 
same as over the Wilmington route to 
Florence, six miles south, where our route 
turns to the left. 

Leaving Florence, we cross the Los 
Angeles lliver, along which are some broad, 
rich bottom lands, passing large groves of 
eucalyptus trees, and 5.5 further come to 

Downey — This is a thrifty town of 
agriculturalists, about 500 in number, with 
some good buildings. The Central Hotel 
is the principal hotel. The country is flat, 
and vineyards and orange orchards are to 
be seen at dilfereut places, over which 
the waters of San Gabriel Kiver are con- 
ducted in numerous canals and ditches 

Leaving the station, we soon cross San 
Gabriel River, note the existence of many 
S3'^camore trees, some oaks and many 
" Gum-trees," and four miles are at 

NoRWALK — This is a new station, in the 
center of a broad fertile valley, with only 
the smaller portion under cultivation Con- 
tinuing on, over a grassy phiin, where are 
a few tree^, and a few alkali beds, we pass 
Costa, 6.3 miles from Norwalk, and roll 
along through an improving country The 
La Puente Hills are on our left, beyond 
which rise the San Gabriel Mountains. 
From Costa it is 3.6 miles to 

Anaheim — Here we are at a live town of 
1,500 population, which, from the car win- 
dows, presents a beautiful appearance, with 
its long rows of trees and beautiful fields. 
A run through the town will reveal the 
fact that it ccjntains many fine buildings, 
some of which are devoted to merchandis- 
ing, besides good churches, fine schools, two 
good hotels — the Planters and the Anaheim, 
and one newspaper— the Gazette. The town 
is embowered in foliage; tall poplar trees, 
cypress,eucalyptus, orange, pepper, castor 
bean, palm and many other trees are 
among the number seen everywhere. 

Here we find extensive irrigating canals 
and a complete net-work of ditches, ct)n- 
ducting the water through the streets and 
over the grounds in all directions, A great 
number of the private residences are 



painted white, (not a very common thing 
in California,) and look very cheerful. 
Leaving Anaheim, we cross a sandy bot 
tom, and then Santa Anna River, over a 
long bridge, pass Orange, a small hamlet 
on the left — where is a grove of planted 
trees — and 4.9 miles from Anahiem, and two 
miles furthercoms to 

Sant.y Ana — This town is 33.3 miles 
southeast of Los Angeles, and about half a 
mile west of the depot, where is now the 
cud of the road, and where a town is being 
laid oft', called East Santa Ana. Santa 
Ana is situated about one and half miles 
south of Santa Anna River, and like Ana- 
heim, is embowered in trees and sur- 
rounded by vineyards, orchards and the 
best of laud, under a high state of cultiva- 
tion. There are some large stores in the 
town and good brick buildings, several fine 
churches, good schools, three hotels — chief 
of which is the Santa Ana Hotel— oue 
daily and two weekly newspapers; the 
Hews and the Times are weekly, and the 
Free Lance is a small, live daily. 

Newport Landing is eight miles west of 
Santa Ana, where most of the steamers 
call, on their way up and down the coast. 
A good wagon road leads from Santa Ana 
to the Landing, and also extends eastward 
to San Bernardino, 40 miles distant. The 
road was built by the counties of Los 
Angeles and San Bernardino. 

The new Black Star coal mines are sit- 
uated about twelve miles northeast, and are 
said to be extensive and the coal of good 
quality. To the east is the high range of 
the Sierra De Santa Anna Mountains, on 
the eastern slope of which are located the 
Temescal Tin mines. 

Some of the lands surrounding Santa 
Ana and to the south and west for many 
miles, called "safe lands," will raise a good 
crop without irrigating, but the greater 
portion requires the water — to supply which 
a company is now engaged building a canal 
to take the waters ot'tlie Santa Anna River 
away to the eastward. The canal will be 
18 miles long, and will furnish ample 
water for 20,000 acres of land. 

Stages leave Santa Ana daily for San Juan 
Capistrano, southeast 24 miles; fare $2.50; 
San Louis Rey, 65 miles ; fare, |5.00 ; also 
to San Diego, 100 miles, and all inter- 
mediate points. 

San Diego — As this is reached from 
Santa Ana, the nearest point by rail and 
stage, it seems to be the proper place for a 
short description of the town. San Diego 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



225 



was first set! led by the Jesuit missionaries, 
in 17(J9, and is the oldest town iu the State. 
It is a port ofcn'.ry, and the county seat of 
San Diego county. It is situated on San 
Diego Bay, Avhich, for its size, is the most 
sheltered, most secure and tinc^t harbor in 
the world. The bay is 12 miles long and 
two miles wide, with never less than 30 feet 
of water at low tide, and a good, sandy bot- 
tom. By act of Congress, it is the western 
terminus of the Texas it Pacific railroad, but 
when that road will be built, if ever, is a 
problem, the solution of which, all the 
citizens of San Diego, about 5,000 in num- 
ber, are exceedingly anxious to have 
demonstrated, and there is little question but 
what they would all elect to have it built 
without delay. The city is connected by 
steamer with San Francisco, 456 miles 
north, and by stage to all inland towns. It 
is 14 miles north of the dividing line be- 
tween Upper and Lower California, and is 
destined to make a city of great importance. 
Tropical fruit of every variety is produced 
in the county, and the climate is one of the 
finest in the world, the thermometer never 
falling below 40 deg. in the winter, or 
rising above 80 deg. in the summer. The 
country is well timbered and %vell watered, 
protlucing large crops of all kinds ot grain, 
fruit and vegetables. Gold, silver and tin 
ores have recently been discovered, which 
promise at this time to be very extensive 
and profitable. Several quartz mills bave 
been erected. Two weekly papers are pub- 
lished at San Diego — the World and Union. 
San Juan Capistkan; >, is a quiet, sleeiiy, 
conservative old town, twenty-four miles 
from Santa Ana, situated in the center of a 
beautiful little valley, hemmed in on three 
sides, in a variegated frame-work of 
emerald hills, with the broad Pacific 
Ocean on the west, gleaming like a mirror 
at mid-day, and glowing like a floor of 
burnished gold at sunset: Here is located 
the old mission, which gave its name to 
the town. It was founded in 1776, and is 
situated on an eminence, commanding a 
view of the surrounding country, with ex- 
tensive orchards of orange, lemon, olive 
and other trees, planted nearly 100 years 
ago, which continue to bear abundantly. 
To the south of the town is th'> Rancho Boca 
de la Playa, of 7,000 acres ; Kancho Neguil, 
of 13,000 acres, and the Rancho Mission 
Viejo, on the east, of 46,000 acres. These 
ranchos include a great deal of good agricul- 
tural land, but now the greater portion is 
used for pasturage. 
15 



Gospel Swamp — This singularly pro. 
duotive region is situated a few miles north 
of west from Santa Ana, the soil of which is 
very similar to that about the " Mussel 
Slough" and Lake Tulare, heretofore noted. 
The soil is wholly composed of the richest 
sedimentary deposit, the decomposition of 
vegetable matter that has been going on 
since the creation of the world. In this 
section, all kinds of vegetables attain im- 
mense proportions, so large that we dare not 
give the figures. This is the pumpkin's /wme. 
Pumpkins weighing 320 to 340 lbs. are not 
uncommon in this region. A single vine 
produced in 1877, 1,400 lbs. of pumpkins 
without any further care than putting the 
seed in the ground — and it was" a poor year 
for pumpkins at that. Corn is the princi- 
pal crop, in gathering which they find 
much difficulty, owing to the height of the 
stalks. If some enterprising Yankee 
would invent a portable elevator with a 
graduated seat and revolving buckets for 
liolding the ears of corn, he could find in 
this section an extensive field iu wliicli to 
operate. 

Returning once more to Los Angeles, 
and for the lost lime, we take our old seat, 
and start for Sunrise, at Yuma. See 
Time Table. 

Leaving Los Angeles, our course is 
south about one mile— on the track we 
have been over several times — then to the 
left, and finally due east, crossing the 
Los Angeles River, just beyond which is 
the 80-acre vineyard of Mr. Sabichi, and 
follow up a little valley. On the right 
are low, rolling grass-covered hills, around 
which are many little cottages nestling 
cosily beneath a wreath of Ibliage, consist- 
ing of orange and other fruit trees. We 
are now on an ascending grade, and shall 
continue to be, for the next 80 miles. 

To the left, about four miles, is located 

Pasadena — (Key of the Valley; — quite 
commonly known as the " Indiana Colony," 
a new and beautiful settlement northeast 
from Los Angeles about seven miles, and 
three miles from the old mission of San 
Gabriel. Five years ago this position was 
occupied only by the one adobe house of 
a Spaniard, Garfias, who once owned the 
ranchc. A company of eastern men, largely 
from I ndiana, purchased the tract, with an 
abundant water privilege arising in the 
Arroyo Seco Canyon, and nearly every one 
of the sub-divided tracts of 7;^, 15 or 30 
acres each was taken within a year by 
actual settlers, and these, almost without 



226 



CROFUTX'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



exception,easternfamilies of the high- 
est class and of comfortable means. 
Young orange orchards, just com- 
mencing to bear, now form the princi- 
pal feature of the town; its abundant 
mountain water is distributed to hy- 
drants, bath-rooms and fountains in 
and about each house ; the dry-bed of 
the Arroyo, on its western edge, fur- 
nishes abundant wood; the Sierra 
Madra or San Fernando range bounds 
and guards its northern side, and its 
site overlooks the whole San Gabriel 
Valley. 

The Lake Vineyard Ass'n has more 
recently opened \\p a fine tract, bor- 
dering Pasadena on the east, and the 
two settlements, now blending into 
one, have some seventy houses, many 
of them very handsome, aPresbyteri- 
an and aMethodist church, two school 
houses, stores, shops and a daily mail. 
Not alone those who have their pretty 
homes and orange groves there think 
it the most desirable of all California's 
delightful spots, but unprejudiced 
travelers, who have seen the whole, ac- 
knowledge that here, indeed, as its 
Spanish name asserts, is the"^'e(/ of the 
-Urt/Ze;/" and that valley the far-famed 
and Eden like San Gabriel. 

In visiting the orange groves and old 
Mission Church of this locality it will 
more than j)ay to turn aside the two 
or three miles necessary in order to 
see Pasadena and Lake Vineyard. 

To the right, before reaching the 
next station, several huge palm trees 
can be seen, like those shown on the 



foreground of our illustration, on page 
10. They are the./rt?ipalm,greatnumb- 
ers of which are to be seen on our route 
hereafter. 

Passing up through the little valley, 
9.2 miles from LosAngeles, we come to 

San ^jrabriel— The station is on a 
broad plateau gently sloping from the 
mou ntains on the left. Far to the right, 
away down on the San Gabriel Kiver, 
embowered in all kinds of fruit trees, 
and surrounded by vineyards, is the 
old, Old San Gabriel Mission, founded 
Sept. 8, 1771. All the old missions in 
California — twenty-one in number — 
were founded by members of the Ord- 
er of SanFrancisco,who were sent out 
by the college of San Fernando, in the 
City of Mexico, who were of the order 
of Franciscan Friai's. The orange or- 
chard at the Mission was the first 
planted, as the Mission was the first 
founded in California by the old Pad- 
res. Some of the trees are very large, 
and continue to bear the best of fruit. 
The "Wolf kill" orchard in LosAngeles 
is the next in age, and the second in 
size. Tothenorth of this station, two 
miles distant, is situated the 

Largest Orange Orchard in Cali- 
fornia — It is owned by L.J. Rose, Esq., 
and contains 500 acres. In this orchard 
are orange trees Qf all sizes, loaded 
with fruit the year round. Besides 
oranges, great numbers of lemon, 
lime, almond, English walnut, and 
many other varieties of fruits and 
nuts are raised here to the greatest 
perfection. Pomegranates, 5,000 ifi^ 



IVo. S3 AxNEx. California— was first dis- 
covered in 1542, by a Portuguese, Juan B. Cab- 
rillo, -whiie iu the Spanish service. It was held 
by the Spanish then by the Mexican Govern- 
ment, Until 1848, when by treaty it became a 
portion of the United States. It was admitted 
as a State in 185(). It covers an area of lOO.OOO 
square miles, divided about equally into mirjlng, 
agricultural, timber, and grazing lands. All 
kinds of grain, fruit, and vegetables grow in pro- 
fusion. The grape culture has occupied the atteij- 
tionof many of her people, who find that they can 
produce wine surjjassed by none in this country, 
and few in the old. Large quantities are used 
throughoirt the United States, with a yearly in- 
ca-eased shipment to European marliets. Her 
manufactures are of a high order, and attract 
favorable notice at home and abroad. The spirit 
of enterprise manifested by her citi^jens has de- 
served and won success. Under the liberal, far- 
seeing policy of the younger class of caijitalists 
aud luei'chants, who appeared about the time of 
tiho inauguration of the great railroad, a new 
order of thhigs arose. Men began to regard this 
laud as their future l^ome. 



From this time, money exjjanded, trade, agric- 
ulture, mining and manufactures began to as- 
sume their proper stations, and a brighter era 
oijened to the peoijle of the Pacific sloi)e. 

Tlie Coa.st Kii"ge — is the range of moim- 
tains nearest the Pacific Ocean, extending the 
whole length of the State, broken at intervals 
with numerous small rivers, anil narrow, fertile 
valleys. The principal peaks are — Mt. Ballery, 
(;,.So7 feet high ; Pierce, (>, 000 ; Hamilton. 4,450 ; 
Diablo, 3,876 ; Banch, 3,790 ; Chonal, 3,530 ; St. 
Helena, 3,700 ; Tamalpais, 2,004 feet. Mount St. 
Bernardino, away to the southward, in the range 
of that name, is 8,370 feet m height. 

The Kaiiiy Reason — on the Pacific coast is 
between the first of November and the first of 
Blay, the rain falling iirincipally in the night, 
while the days are mostly clear and pleasant. At 
Christmas, the whole country is covered with 
green grass ; in January with a carpet of flowers ; 
and in Ajiril and May with ripening fields of 
grain. During 15 years of observation the aver- 
age has been 220 clear, 85 cloudy, and 60 rainy 
days each year. The nights ij.re cool the year 
round, requiring a coverlid. 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



227 



number, are growing here, planted by Gen. 
Stoueman. 

The town of San Gabriel is located about 
one and a half miles nonh of the station, 
and is completely embowered in foliage, 
among which are all the varieties of orna- 
mental trees, fruit trees, vines, and flowers, 
grown on the Pacific Coast, the citizens 
seemingly having taken great pains, to 
procure some of every kind of tree and 
shrub, with which to beautify their other- 
wise beaatifiil town. 

We have referred to the old. Old Mis- 
sion, now we will refer to the Old Mission 
Church, which is located clo-e on our left, 
just belbre reaching this station. It is in a 
dilapidated ccmdition, but the bells are 
still hanging in plain view from tlie cars, 
which were wont to call the faithful to 
their devotions, long before the '" blarsted 
Yankees" invaded the country. 

The Sierra Madre Villa is a finely ap- 
pointed hotel, situated about three miles 
from the station, away up on the foot-hills 
1,800 IVet above the level of the sea. It is 
in a most beautiful location, overooking 
the whole valley of Los Angeles, Santa 
Monica and Wilmington, with thousands 
of acres in orange and fruit orchanls, and 
in vineyards, in ihe foreground, and in the 
rear the towering mountains. From 
springs in these mountains the sparkling 
waters are conducted in pipes, and com- 
pelled to do duty in the fountains in front 
of Ihe Villa, in every room in the house, 
and for irrigating 3,000 or lUge, lemon, and 
other fruit trees adjoining the liotol This 
is a lovely place to sojourn — if not forever, 
certainly for a season. At this Villa is the 
best of accommodation for about 50 guests, 
at charges from $12 to $15 per week. 

Close to the station, on the left, the tour- 
ist will find a variety of cactus not hereto- 
fore seen on this route. There are over 
two hundred varieties — so we are told — of 
these cactus plants. The ones at this 
station grow about ten feet high, and are 
of the pad species, i. e , they grow, com- 
mencing at the ground, in a succession of 
great pads, from eight inches in Avidth to 
fit teen inches in length, and from one to 
three inches in thickness. These puds are 
covered with sharp thorns, and grow one 
upon the other, connected by a tough stem, 
round, and about two inches in diameter. 
These cacti bear a kind of fruit of a 
pleasant flavor, which is used principally 
by the Indians or Spanish-Mexican resi- 
dents. 



From San Gabriel, we continue up the 
plateau, with the valley of San Gabriel 
Kiver on the right, 2.5 miles to 

^a.vaillta — wherx; are well-cultivated 
fieUls, groves and vineyards. Passing on 
1.4 miles furtiier is 

Monte — This is a thriving town of 
several hundred families in the most pro- 
ductive jionion of S m Gabriel Valley. 
Here corn and hogs are the staples, and 
hog and hominy the diet. The settlers 
raise immense fields of corn, and feed 
great numbers of hogs for market — m fact, 
this is the most hogish si ction yet visited, 
but we suppose tlie Monte men would 
bristle up if they were told so. 

Passing on, more to the southward, we 
soon cross San Gabiiel River, which here 
has a bioad, sandy bed. Sheep are raised 
in great numbers in this and the section 
of country traversed for the next 50 miles. 

Puente — is the next station, 6.2 miles 
from Monte, where trains only stop on 
signal. It is situated on the east bank of 
San Jose Creek, beyond which and the 
west is the La Puente Hills. Most of the 
bottom land is fenced and cultivated, the 
settlers being mostly Spanish or Mexicans. 

Coursing around to the left, up San 
Jose Creek, along which will be found 
m ny Mexican houses and herds of sheep, 
ten miles brings our train to 

Spadra — elevatioii 706 feet. This is a 
small place of a score or more of dwell- 
ings, several stores, and one hotel, and is 
the home of an old Missouii gentleman, 
familiarly called Uncle Billy Kubottom, 
whose house is in a grove just opposite 
tlie station on the I'ight, a few hundred 
yards from the dejjot. He has lived here 
near 30 years, and keeps "open Ikhisc" 
for all his friends, in real old Southern 
style. He can oil en be seen at ihe depot 
mounted on his mustang, under a sombrero, 
something smaller than a circus tent, and 
' as happy as a bevy of New England girls 
would be in a Los Angeles orange orchard. 

Passing on up the creek, which is 
gradually dwindlmg, beyond which are a 
succession of liuttes, or low, grass-covered 
hills, 3.5 miles brings us to 

Pomosia — This is a promising little 
town of about 600, with some good build- 
ings. Garcy avenue— the principal one — 
is planted on each side, with Monterey 
cypress and eucalyptus trees, and presents 
a beautiful appearance. Four artesian 
wells supply the town with water, and for 
irrigating purposes, these wells range 



228 



CROFUTT'S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



from 2G to 65 teet in depth, and flow an 
immense amount of water, wliicli is as 
pure as crystal. A reservoir holding 
8,000,000 gallons is kept full, as a reserve 
at all times. Here, too, we Hnd many 
orchards of orange, lemon, tig, and fruit 
trees. From Pomona it is 9.5 miles to the 
side-track and signal station of 

Cucamoiiga — elevation, 953 feet. 
Two ami a half miles north is the Cuca- 
monga Ranche, celebrated for its wines. 
To the South, ten miles, is Rincon Settle- 
ment, a ricli agricultural region, under a 
most completCv system of Irrigation, the 
water bemg supplied by the Santa Anna 
River, which carries a large volume of 
water at all seasons. A run of 15.2 miles 
through a section of country where are a 
few good ranches we come to 

Col ton — This place was named for 
the late vice-President of the Southern 
Pacitic, and is a regular eating station for 
trains from the East and West. Tlie town 
is not a very large one at present —about 
200 persons will be the full number — yet it 
is quite a busy place, as it is the nearest 
station to San Bernardino, on the east, and 
Riverside, on the southwest. The Trans- 
continental is the principal hotel, and a 
very good one. Coltoii has a newspaper — 
the tiemi-Tropic, that makes its bow 
weekly. 

Marble — To the west of the station, 
half-mile distant, a round butte rises from 
the prairie to the height of 500 feet, about 
115 acres in area, in which has been dis- 
covered an immense body of what has been 
pronounced a very fine quality of marble, 
besides lime and cement in great abun- 
dance. A stock company has been formed, 
a rail track is to be laid to the mine, and 
the marble will soon be in the market; the 
demand for which, it is said, is already 
very great. 

The Cojon Pass — (pronounced ko-hoon) 
through the San Bernardino Mountains, is 
due north from Colton, and we hear there 
are plans maturing to build a railroad 
through this "Pass "to Mojava, a distance 
of 70 miles. Should this ever be done, the 
distance from Colton to ISIojava and the 
north will be shorter by 90 miles than the 
present line via Los Angeles. The grade 
is said to be easy, and the work of build- 
ing, light. 

Stages leave on arrival of trains, for San 



lo) V\\ never te\\\ but ask Butler, freight 

agent at Coltou, to show you his white owl — it's a 
great curiosity. 



Bernardino, four miles east ; fare, 50 cents ; 
to Riverside, eight miles southwest, fare, 75 
cents. 

The Riverside Colony — is located on 
8,000 acres of the best agricultural land in 
the State, most of which is under irri- 
gating ditches, and is in a very thriving 
condition ; in fact, it is the most prosper- 
ous, wealthy, and successlul colony on the 
Pacific coast. Land th;;t in 1868 was 
worth but a few dollars per acre, ?i(*«i would 
sell readily for from $100 to $150 per acre 
— eerily^ this country is the iwor man^s 
paradise, — and there are millions of acres 
full as good, now unoccupied, awaiting his 
advent. 

^an Bernardino— four miles east, 
and 61 miles east of Los Angeles, is the 
county seat of San Bernardino county, the 
largest in the Sta e. Itwas settled by a colony 
of Mormons in 18-17, and the town laid out 
in the same manner as Salt Lake City, with 
water running through all the principal 
-streets from a never-failing supply obtained 
from numerous springs and creeks, in, and 
coming down from the San Bernardino 
Mountains on the east, close to the base of 
which, the town is located. All the Mor- 
mons now living here are " Josephites," 
Brigham, some years since, having called 
home to Salt Lake all who were devoted 
to him. The town contains a population 
of about 6,000, most of whom are engaged 
in fruit raising and agricultural ]iursuits. 
Fruit trees of all kinds, with vineyards, 
gardens, and groves, are the rule, and, alto- 
gether, it is a very beautiful town. 

San Bernardino is on tlie old trail, 
through the Cajon Pass, to the mining 
regions of Nevada and Arizona, now of 
little use. The valley of San Bernardino 
contains 36,01)0 acres. Crops of all kinds 
grow in this valley. Much of the land 
produces two crops a year — barley for the 
first, and corn for the second; of the 
former, fifty bushels to the acre is the av- 
erage yield, and of the latter, from fifty to 
sixty bushels. Of alfalfa, from five to six 
crops a year are grown. 

Six miles north of San Bernandino are 
Waterman's Hot Springs. These springs 
are said to be almost assure cure for the 
rheumatism; they are 700 feet above the 
valley, and 1,800 above sea level. 

Near San Bernardino are the ^fountains, 
— East, the most prominent peak of which 
is 8,750 feet above sea level. 

Returning to Colton, another engine 13 
attached to our train, and we proceed to 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



229 



climb the San Gorgon io Pass; so we bid 
adieu to the orange groves, the beautiful 
fruit orchards, tlie luscious viueyards, and 
the glorious climate of California, as we 
sliall see no more of those attractious on 
this trip. " Fare-thee-wcll, aiul it forever, 
still, forever fare-thee-well." 

Leaving Colton, we cross Saata Anna 
River, and 3.4 miles trom (.'oltou come to 
Mound Citv, a signal station, with aa 
elevation of 1,055 feet. The road now 
runs up a narrow canyon with low hills on 
each side. 

Sheep are the only things of life now 
noticeable. Eleven miles lurtlier comes 

El Casco — another signal station, sit- 
uated in a ravine extending to the Pass. 
Up this ravine the averaga grade is 89 feet 
to the mil?; elevation, 1,874 feet. We are 
now in a section where large quantities of 
peaches are rais?d. 

Continuing up the mountain 8.5 miles 
brings us to the Summit of the Pass, 2,592 
feet, at 

^an Cworgoiiio — There are some 
good agricultural lands near, when irri- 
gated, and a scheme is on foot to bring the 
water from the mountains to tlie northeast, 
twelve miles distant, for that purpose. 

To the west, seven miles, is the great 
San Jacinto Nueva Rancho, containing 
47,000 acres. This property is now being 
sub-divided into 10, and|20 acre farms, and 
sold on easy terms. We have visited the 
Rancho and are free to say tlie greater por- 
tion is a soil fully as rich and productive 
as any in the State, easily irrigated where 
necessary, from the San Jacinto River 
wliich runs through the property, or l)y 
wells; abundance of water being obtained 
within from five to twenty feet of the 
surface. 

From this station it is down grade for 
6.2 miles to Banning-, a signal station, and 
5.7 miles more brings us to 

Cabnzon — (pronounced Cabb-a-zone), 
which means " Big Head," named for a 
tribe of Indians who live in this country; 
elevation, 1,779 feet, We are now in tlie 
Coahulian Valley. To tiie right are the San 
Jacinto Mountains, coverecl with timber. 
From Cabazon it is 8 5 miles to White 
W.^TER, an unimportant signal station, 
1,126 feet altitude, Avhere we enter the cac 
tus and desert country, and from which 
station it is 7.5 miles to 

Seven Palms— elevation 584 feet, 
rirs station was named for seven large 
palm trees, situated about one mile north 



of the station. They are from 40 to 60 feet 
in height, with very large, spreading tops. 
TJie water at this station is the first and 
best on the west side of the desert, and in 
the days when emigrants traveled this 
route with teams, it was one of the points 
looked forward to wiili much pleasure. 

From this station to Dos Palmas, a little 
over 50 miles, tlie palm trees are abundant. 

Indio -is 20.8 miles Irom Seven Palms, 
with a depression of just twenty feet beloio 
sen-level. The palm trees along here are 
many of them 70 feet in height. "Wiieu we 
commenced to descend below the sea level, 
tliree miles before reaching Indio, we left 
the sand-belt and entered a region more 
adapted for agricultural purposes, strange 
as it may seem. Tlie cactus grows luxu- 
riantly, and the mesquite shrub and palms 
cover the face of the land. From this 
point we descend lower and lower at every 
revolution of the wheels, down, down nude r 
the sea! Methinks we can see the huge 
ships sailing over our heads, and many of 
the leviathans of the deep, with an eye cast 
wistfully down upon us; then we think of 
Jonah, and wonder if we will come out as 
lie did ; then, along comes the freebooter, 
Mr. Shark, and appears to be taking our 
measure with a knowing wink of his left 
fin — he rises to the surface as though to get 
a fresh breath and a better start for a grand 
dive, looking as hungry as a New^York 
landlord, as enterprising as a Chicago 
drummer, and as "cheeky" as some of the 
literary thieves who pirate inlormatioa 
from our book, without giving credit. 

In some points of tlie depression, where 
we first enter it, three miles north of Indio, 
fresh water can be obtained by sinking 
from twelve to sixteen feet. Here, vegeta- 
tion is ver}' luxuriant ; mesquite, iron-wood, 
arrow-wood, grease-wood, sage and otlier 
woods and shrubs abound. Further to the 
south, f]-oiu Walters to Flowing Wells, a 
distance of over 40 miles, the country is 
completely barren, 11 fact, is a "howling 
wilderness." Throu'frh tiiis section, the 
water ol)tained by digging is very salt. 
The beach surrounding this dejiressioa 
is 40 feet above high wafer; tlie lines are 
the same noticeable around any salt beach, 
the pebbles laying in rows, away around 
the different water-lines, r.s though left but 
yesterday by the receding waters. Marine 
and fresh water shells are numerous, indi- 
cating a fresh water lake here, subsequent 
to its being a part of the ocean. 

Walters— is Vd:d miles from Indio, 



230 



C'ROFUTT'S KEW OVERLAND TOUUIST 



where passenger trains meet and pass. At 
this point we are 135 leet below the level of 
the bea, and still (joiixj down. Ten miles 
further and we are 260 feet Z/c/cw ; gradually 
we ascend, and at the next station, 17.4 
miles from Walters, are at 

Dos l*aliiias— only 253 feet below. 
From Dos Paluias, desolation reigns su- 
preme, and lO.y miles brings us to 

Fink's SpriiiJliiS Here we are 
seven feet lower than at Dos Palmas. being 
260 feet below; alitlie further ii. will be 263 
feet, when we commence to rise. 

Five miles south, are twenty-five square 
miles of mud springs. The first is about 
100 yards east of the roatl, and is cold. 
Then to the right, from one to l4x miles, are 
many springs, b(jtli hot and cold. Some 
are 200 feet in diameter, boiling up as 
though in a huge caldron, jut>t on a level 
Avith the ground. Others are smaller, cone- 
shaped, rising in some cases 25 feet from 
the ground, a kind of miniature volcanoes. 
The mud in these springs is much the same 
consistency as ordinary mush, bubbling up 
as in a pot, over a slow fire. Tlie smell, 
coupled with an occasional rumbling sound, 
reminds one of a region of which our 
modern teachers deny tlie existence. 

The railroad track docs not cross this 
depression in the lowest place, as an area 
west from Dos Palmas is twelve and a half 
feet lower. This has been called a Vol- 
canic country. Tliere are no signs that 
would indicate it ever to have been dis- 
turbed by volcanic eruptions, except the 
presence of the mud spiings; on the con- 
trary, mo.st ot the rocks surrounding this 
basin for fifty miles are granite, which is 
unusual in a volcanic section of country. 
What few rocks there are here, that are not 
granite, sliow no appearance of volcanic 
matter. Spurs of San Bernardino Mountains 
have been on our left, up to this point, after 
wdiich they dwindle to small, isolated sand 
hills, here and there. 

Flowing; Well— is the next station, 
17.7 miles from Fink's Springs. We have 
risen, so tliat we are now only 45 feet helotr 
sea level. At this station the Pailroad 
Co. sank an artesian well 160 feet deep, 
and g :)t an abundance of water, tluough a 
six-incli pipe, b'U it was too salt for use. 

Six miles further we pass 

Tortnga — a siu:nal station, 183 feet 
altitude, and 6 miles furtlur come to 

Mainniotli Tank— so named from a 
tiatnrd water tank in the granite rocks on 
the kit, live miles distaut,which holds 10,000 



gallons, filled by rains, and nearly always 
has water in it. 

It is said there are several hundred va- 
rieties of cactus on this desert, and we are 
ready to admit the statement without hunt- 
ing further proof than what can be seen 
from the car window. They are hej-e, ( f 
all sizes, shape and form. Eleven miles 
further, we come to another signal station 
called 

Mesquite — so named because there is 
no mesquite near or in the immediate vi- 
cmity. Next comes — 18.8 miles — 

Cactns — elevation, 396 feet, named for 
a variety of cactus called "occtilla," which 
grows in great numbers, near. 

To the east, from this station, can be 
seen Chimney Peak— a conglomerate rock 
— a huge cone, 160 feet in diameter, which 
rises from the summit of some low hills, 
700 feet in height, beyond which, 40 miles 
away, can be seen the Castle Dome Moun- 
tains. They are on the east side of the 
Colorado River, from the summit of which 
rises Castle Dome, a granite column, 500 
feet above the mountain range, which pre- 
sents the appearance of a monster, square, 
flat-roofed building, but which in reality, 
is a long, narrow column, when viewed 
from a point to the southward of the Dome. 

Mesquite, sage, and grease-wood shrubs 
are now to be seen on all sides. Directly 
ahead is a tall, round butte, called Pilot 
Knob, on the east side of which are located 
some lead mines. This butte is just seven 
miles north of the Mexican boundary line. 
Passing on 13. G miles, we come to a signal 
station, called 

Filot Knob — From here, our course 
changes a little more to the eastward, and 
we soon come in view of the Colorado 
River, witli a wide, sandy botton covered 
with willows and mesquite. From Pilot 
Knob it is 0.4 miles to Yuma, about five of 
which brings to us the first view of the 
river, and the next four to the west end of 
the bridge. To the lelt, before crossing the 
bridge, is Fort Yuma, a Government post, 
occupied by about one dozen "boys in 
blue." It is on a high butte, overlooking 
tiie surrounding country. To the riffJit, on 
the opposite side of the river, on a high 
bluff, is located the Quartermaster's De- 
partment. Crossing the bridge, which hr.s 
a draw for river boats, and through a deep 
cut, we are in Arizona, and at 

Ynnia City — This is unlike any city 
we h:ive heretofore Aisited. It contains a 
ponu!;.tion <-f i.bout f,5C0, cne-iifth of 



AND PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



231 



whom are Americans, the balance Spanish, 
Mexicans, and natives — Indians. The 
buildings are all cue story high, made of 
sod, adobe, or sun-dried brick, the walls 
being from two to four feet thick, with Hat 
roofs. The roofs are made by a layer of 
poles, covered with willows, sometimes a 
covering of cloth, or rawhide beneath 
them, and then covered with dirt to a thick- 
ness of from one to two feet. On all sides 
of these houses verandas project from ten 
to twenty feet, built of poles, like the roof, 
some with dirt, others with only the brush. 
These verandas are built for protection 
against the powerful rays of the sun. In 
summer the heat is intense; often the 
mercury marlis 126, and once, some years 
ago, we learn from a reliable authority, it 
was 130 degrees in the shade. As might 
be supposed, snow and frost are unknown 
in Yuma. In summer, the American, 
Spanish and Mexican residents wear as 
little clothing as possible, while the native 
Indians' covering, will not exceed the size 
of a small pocket handkerchief, adjusted 
in the mother Eve fashion, with sometimes 
a long trailing strip of red material dang- 
ling from the rear belt a la monkey. 

In the hot weather, which is intense for 
about eight months in the year, the people 
sleep on the roofs of the houses, covered 
by the drapery furnished by nature — 
darkness. 

Yuma,_ with all its varieties of citizens, 
is a very orderly city The great majority 
of the people are Komau Catholics, that 
denomination having the only church 
building in die city There are a few 
stores, with quite extensive stocks of 
goods. The hotels are not veiy extensive, 
such only in name ; the Palace and Colorado 
are the two principal ones. Yuma has 
one weekly newspaper — the Sentinel. 

Most of the Spanish and jNIexican houses 
are surrounded with high fences, made of 
poles, set in the ground close together, to a 
depth ot three or more feet, and secured 
together about four feet from the ground, 
with narrow strips of rawhide interwoven, 
when soft, around and betw-een the poles, 
so when the hide dries the fence is very 
strong. Many of these fences present a 
very ragged appearance, as the poles range 
in height* from four to twelve feet above 
he ground. The more enterprising of thet 
people saw these poles off' to a uniform 
height, when they present a much more 
artistic and finished appearance. 

The Railroad Company have large ware- 



houses here built of lumber, for the accom- 
modation of both the railroad and steamer 
business. The boats on the Colorado Kiver 
are all owned by the Kailroad Company, 
and are run in connection with the trains'. 

Just above the railroad bridge, on the 
west bank of the Coloratlo River, is situ- 
ated Fort Yuma. It is located on the top 
of a bold, round butte about one-fourth of 
a mile in diameter, rising about 200 feet 
above the river bottom, and projecting- 
into the Colorado River to meet a promon- 
tory of about the same height on the easfi 
side. Between these bold points flows the 
Colorado River, about 300 yards in width. 
The Colorado River reaches this point 
from the northward, and the Gila (pro- 
nounced Hee-le) from the east, forming a 
junction close above the points named. It 
is proposed by those managing the inter- 
ests (so we hear) of the Texas & Pacific 
railroad, to build a bridge across the Col- 
orado River at these bluffs, some work of 
grading having been done in the fall of 
1877, just previous to the locating of the 
present railroad bridge, a few hundred 
yards below. 

From the high butte above named, a 
view can be had of Yuma, the valleys of 
the Colorado and the Gila rivers, the 
mesas, and the sui rounding country for 
many miles. 

COLORADO RIVER STEAMERS. 

Passenger and freight steamers leave 
Yuma for Aubry, durtng the summer sea- 
son, weekly, commencing the ffrst Saturday 
in May and continuing until the last of Oc- 
tober, from that time tintiljanuary follow- 
ing, they will leave every alternate Satur- 
day. Steamers for Camp Mohava leave 
every fifth AVednesday, commencing about 
the middle of January. These steamers 
run to El Dorado Canyon, from May 1st to 
the last of October (stage of water permit- 
ting). 

Distance from Yuma, per river steamer, 
to Castle Dome, 3o miles, fare, $5.00; 
Eherenberg, 125 miles, f\u-e, $15.00; Au- 
bry, 220 miles, fare, $28.00; Camp Mo- 
hava, . 300 miles, fare, $35.00 ; Hardyville, 
312 miles, fare, $35.00; El Dorado Canyon, 
365 miles, fare, $45.00 

The Colorado river is the largest in Ari- 
zona. Its principal tributaries are the 
Grand River, which rises in the Middle 
Park of Colorado, and the Green River, 
which rises in the eastern portion of Idaho. 
From the junction of the Grand and 
Green rivers, the stream is called the C 1- 



232 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



orado, and with its windings has a 
length of 3,000 miles to where it enters 
tlie Gulf of California. It is navigable 
at all times about 500 miles, and in a 
season of high water about 150 miles 
further to Callville. The time is notjar 
distant when a trip to theGrand Canon 
of the Colorado will be one of the most 
attractive and iiopular in America — if 
not in the world. Along this canon for 
nearly 300 miles the channel of the 
river has been cut through the moun- 
tain walls that rise up on each side 
from 1,000 to 3,500 feet, forming the 
longest, highest and grandest cafion 
the eye of man everbelield. 

Stages leave Yinna daily, carrying 
passengers, mail and express for Ca- 
stle Dome, 30 miles; Horse Tanks, 58 
miles; Tyson's Wells, US miles; with 
branch line to Eherenberg, 2H miles 
further ; to Wickenburg, 128 miles, and 
Prescott, 103 miles; average fare, 16 
cents i^er mile. 

Leaving Yuma, our course is due 
east, with the Gila River on the left, or 
north side. The river bottom is from 
two to live miles in width and covered 
with white sage, greasewood, mes- 
quite shrubs, willows, small cotton- 
woods and someironwood. The soil is 
a mixture of loam, sand and clay, with 
alkali beds in places. Very little of 
the land is cultivated, yet there are a 
few Mexican or Spanish settlers, who 
"tickle the ground" a little within the 
first ten miles after leaving Yuma. 
Their irrigating ditches are crossed 
in a number of places, and we are told 
the vegetables and early wheat raised 
are very good. On the north side of 
the river, five miles away, a Spanish 
settler has a large ranclie, which is 
quite productive. 

A 1)0 at ten miles east of Y''uma, the 
bluffs on each side close in on the riv- 
er,and our road is built through a suc- 



cession of rocky points or spurs which 
extend to the river bank. To the right 
or south side our view is wholly ob- 
structed ; but to the northward, be- 
yond the river, the country is very 
much broken with canons and ravines 
coming down from the high rocky 
bluffs which overtop each other in the 
distance, some of whicli must reach 
an altitude of 1,500 ft. above the valley. 

A few iniles through rock cuttings 
and our train will reach the river 
bank and afford us a view of Los Flo- 
res, a small mining camp on the north 
side of the river, the "drifts" showing 
plainly. A two-stamp mill is the ex- 
tent of the machinery used. 

Cwila City— is 15.7 miles east of 
Y'uma, inhabited principally by Papa- 
go Indians, with a small sprinkling of 
whites, most of whom are engaged in 
"dry washing" for gold in the canons 
and ravines south of the station. The 
gold is fine and not very abundant. 

Leaving the station, within a few 
miles we will see the first of a kind of 
cactus peculiar to Arizona. It is cer- 
tainly the "Boss" cactus of the world. 
(See Annex No. 55 and page 235.) 

Leaving Gila City, the country is 
more open, the river bottom is sever- 
al miles broad, and covered with small 
cottonwoods, willows, and under- 
brush; much of this land would pro- 
duce crops with irrigation, but the riv- 
er could not be depended upon to sup- 
ply the water at the time it would be 
re(iuired. 

By looking away to the southward, 
the first glimpse is obtained of a pecu- 
liar sharp needle-pointed rocky butte, 
which in general formation is found 
in our travels only on the Gila Des- 
ert, where they are very numerous. 
These buttes are of volcanic for- 
mation, completely isolated, many of 



IVo. 3^ Annex. Cape H'»rn — isa bold 
promontory, situated on the north side of the Co- 
iiinibia River, in Washington Territory, about 
midway between tho Cascade Mountains and the 
Dalles, Tliis promontory is of basaltic formation 
— like most others on tlie Columl)ia — and rises 
near 2.'J() ft. perpendiuclar from tho water's edge, 
and extends about one mile in length, the lower 
part projecting several hunth-ed feet out into tho 
river. Cajio Horn derives its name from the dati- 
-ger in passing it. Our large illustration, No. 1 0, 
represents a small party of pleasure and curios- 
ity seekers on a pleasant afternoon, when the 
•winds had lulled, who have successfully rounded 
ihe capo. 



No. 3!> Annex. ^Vood llaiiliiis: in Nt»- 

vad 1 — No. 1 1, of the large views, is a beautiful 
engraving, representing a ten-u3ule team loaded 
with wood. The three wagons are coupled to- 
gether like a train ot cars — called "ti-ail wagons" 
on which Ure loaded twenty-four cords of wood. 
At til 3 point represented in the picture, tho team 
is about on the dividing line between Gold Hill, 
down tho canyon tn the rear of the wagons, one- 
fourth mile — and Virginia City, directly aliead. 
about tho same distance around the point of the 
mountaiu. This plan of coupling wagons is quite 
common on tho Pacific Coast for all kinds of 
heavy hauling. Tho ]iicture was eugi'aved by Mr. 
Bross, of New York, from a photograph. 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



233 




INDIANS WATCHING THE ''FIRE WAGONS," — SEE ANNEX NO, 4{>, 



which rise abruptly from the plain to 
an altitude of 2,000feet. In color, they 
vary from dark brown to black, and in 
general appearance resembling iron 
slag. Some of these buttes take the 
form of narrow "hog- back" ranges, 
very sharp, and very steep, extending 
several miles. The view between the 
buttes or ridges are on a level with the 
plain and extend as far as the eye can 
reach; where they overlap each other 
the appearance is like one continuous 
range. 

From Gila City, it is 14 miles to 

Adonde— a side track station, with 
one building, several tents and a big- 
water tank. 

The railroad company have to haul 
all the water they use, on the first 150 
miles of their road east of Yuma, in 
water-cars, from either Adonde or the 
the Colorado River at Yuma. The wa- 
ter from theColorado is preferred over 
that from Adonde, as the latter is 
strongly impregnated with alkali. 

Leaving Adonde we leave the Gila 
Eiver far to the left, and Mill soon re- 
alize that we are fairly out upon avast 



expanse of desert, inhabited solely by 
rattlesnakes, lizards and owls, with 
an occasional woodpecker. Sage 
knolls, ironwood, mesquite. grease- 
wood, clay, and sand— the latter very 
heavy— is now the rule, with an occa- 
sional bunch of white calette grass. 
The surrounding peaks are now prom- 
inent in all directions, on both sides 
of the river; many on the north side 
are castellated and of a peculiar som- 
bre appearance. 

Passing several buttes close on the 
left, — between our train and the river 
— the largest of which is known as An- 
telope Peak, and along over a sandy 
waste, we approach Mohawk Summit, 
26 miles from Adonde. but there is no 
station, no signs of life. This summit 
is simply a low. pass in one of those 
long, rocky, narrow ridges which here 
runs north and south, across our path. 
Just before reaching the summit our 
road is bridged over a dry sandy de- 
pression, which apparently, was once 
the bed of a broad stream of water. 
Along the banks are many trees, 
among which we notice the Paloverde, 



234 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



■with its smooth, bright yellow bark, 
otherwise much resembling the ma- 
drone tree heretofore described. Iron- 
wood is also to be seen as well as the 
"boss" cactus, in great numbers. For 
description, see Annex, No. 55, and il- 
lustration opposite page. 

To the east of tlie summit, the evi- 
dences to prove that this country was 
once lighted by volcanic fires, are 
abundant. The whole surface of the 
country is covered or underlaid witli 
lava. It crops out in every ravine, 
and at every cutting. Wliere the lava 
is exposed to the air, it is soft, and 
readily broken in pieces in tlie hands. 
By the action of tlie wind and rain 
miich of the surface lava has become 
reduced to dust wliich covers the 
ground; disagreeable atall times, but 
when wafted by a Gila zephyr is ter- 
ribly annoying. 

Toxjts iHill— is 7.6 miles east of 
the summit— a side track, and section 
house now comprises tlie station. Con- 
tinuing eastward, tlie general appear- 
ance of tlie country is unchanged, ex- 
cept as to its volcanic evidences 
wliicli are more noticeable. 

J^taii'wix — is an unimportant side- 
track 22.7 miles east of Texas' Hill. 
The Gila Kiver is here about 10 miles 
to the northward, the bottom lands of 
which, as we ascend the river are ini- 
l^roving, and with irrigation, raise 
good crops oJ; wheat and vegetables. 

Sentinel— is another side track 4.6 
miles from the last, but it is a lone 
Sentinel, opposite the place on the 
river where the Oatman family were 
murdered by the Tnnto Indians in 
18."3l. A run of 13.9 miles brings us to 

i'ainteil Koek— so named for the 
noted land mark on the north side of 
the river. Called by the natives "Pe- 
dras Pintados." (See Annex, No. 48.) 

UUn Bend— is 13.9 miles from 
Painted Roclv— and derives its name 
from its location near the great bend 
of the Gila River, and from an old 
stage station of the same name, a few 
miles to the northward. The appear- 
ance of the country bordering the line 
of Railroad— since crossing the San 
BarnardinoMountHins— u]) to this .sta- 
tion, in an agricultural poitit of view 
—particularly, to an east-of-the Mis- 
souri River farmer— is not very en- 
couragiii>-r. Yet, ivltli Irrtgation, there 



are millions of acres of productive 
lands. At this "bend" of the GilaRiver, 
we strike the edge of one of the rich- 
est and finest bodies of land in Arizo- 
na—but it must be irrigated— and the 
Gila affords abundance of water for 
that purpojse. AVith a proper system 
of canals and wind-mills, oranges, 
lemons, vineyards, nuts, and all kinds 
of tropical and semi-tropical cereals, 
can be raised in abundance; — and, 
within our knowledge— we know of no 
section of the trans-Missouri country 
where a more promising opportunity 
for the investment of capital in a safe, 
legitimate, and growing business, 
than is here indicated. Wood is a 
scarce article in many parts of Arizo- 
na — but is plentiful about Gila Bend 
and along the river bottoms,— which, 
in a country devoid of coal, is an item 
of no small consequence. 

Continuing eastward, the sidetrack 
of EsTEKELL.\ is 18.8 milcs, and 18.2 
miles more to 

Maricopa — where the first through 
train from San Praneisco arrived May 
12th, 1879. This town of Maricopa, lo- 
cated as it is in the center of great 
mineral wealth, the distributingpoint 
for a vast region of country— north 
and south of it -is destined at an ear- 
ly day, to become one of prominence. 
It now contains several large mercan- 
tile houses, hotels, restaurants, etc. 
The Railroad Co. have a good depot, 
and a large freight building for the ac- 
commodation of tlie great amount of 
merchandise arriving here for distant 
points— mostly to the northward,— 
Phoenix, Vulture, Wickenburg, Pres- 
cott, etc. Ores and bullion are also 
received here as return freight, for 
shipment to San Francisco and the 

Between Gila City and Maricopa 
there are few buildings, except those 
used by the Railroad Comiiany. The 
"section houses" are all alilvc, built of 
lumber with double, or sun roofs. The 
upper roof is supported by u])right 
timbers and is elevated about two 
feet above the lower roof, over which 
it extends, on all sidns, about four 
feet. The space between the roofs al- 
lows the air to circulate freely, and to 
a great extent protects the occupants 
of the buildings against the powerful 
heat of the sun, which often, in the 









'£Ji^r^ 








^36 



CBCFUTTS NEW OVERLAND TUUKIST 



summer, marks 115 to 130 degrees on 
these plains. 

The old stage station of Maricopa 
Wells is situated about ten miles to 
the northward, on the Gila Eiver, and 
not far distant is the Gila Indian Ee- 
servation, where live the Pima and 
Maricopa Indians, numbering 4,328. 
This reservation contains 70,000 acres 
of as rich and productive lands as 
there is in the Territory, much of 
which is cultivated by the Indians, 
who are self sustaining. 

For interesting historical matters 
regarding Arizona, see Annex, No. G4. 

Distances : Maricopa to Yuma, 150 
miles; Tucson, 91 miles; San Francis- 
co, 887 miles ; El Paso, 399 miles ; Phoe- 
nix, 35 miles, Vulture, 90 miles; Wick- 
enberg, 90 miles; Prescott, 152 miles. 
Stages leave daily with passengers, 
mails and express for Phoenix, Pres- 
cott and intermediate places— fare, 
about seventeen cents per mile. The 
general direction of our road from 
Maricopa changes from the east to 
the south-east for the next 140 miles, 
when it again turns to the eastward. 

From Maricopa it is 14.9 miles to a 
side track called Sweet Water, and 
11.1 miles further to 

Caiiia Cwraiide— this like all rail- 
way stations, when they are at the 
"end of the track," was a very busy 
place.— Temporary wooden buildings, 
canvass tents, and shanties of all 
kinds, and for all purposes, were scat- 
tered in all directions ; immense quan- 
tities of railroad material of every de- 
scription covers many acres of land; 
ponderous "prairie schooners" were 
loading merchandise for distautpoints 
while others Avere unloading ores and 
bullion; stage coaches with passen- 
gers, mails and exjiress were leaving 
and arriving loaded to their utmost ; 
and people of every nationality , color, 
dress and occupation, were to be seen 
on every side intent on some kind of 
business. Such was Casa Grande 
January 1st, 1880. But when the road 
was extended it settled down as a 
shi]>ping point for the mining region 
to the northward — and only such 
buildings remain as are necessary for 
that business. 

This station is named for tlie old 
ruin of Casa Grande, situated about 
14 miles to the northward. (See An- 
nex, No. 47.) 



The general features of the country 
along the road for the last fifty miles, 
in an agricultural ])Oint of view, is 
much improved; sage, grease wood, 
and mesquite trees, together Avith 
grasses of various kinds, cover the 
face of the land ; while herds of cattle, 
sheep and horses are not uncommon. 

Stages leave Casa Grande daily for 
Florence, 25; and Silver King, 57 
miles ; fare, about seventeen cents 
per mile. 

Toltec— is the next station "down 
on the bills," 9.6 miles from Casa 
Grande, and 9.1 miles from 

Picaclio— a small station from 
which large quantities of coke, and 
merchandise is shipped on wagons 
for the mines, to the north- and east- 
Avard. We are noAV folloAving up the 
lower portion of the Santa Cruz Val- 
ley, along Avhich there is no running 
Avater; but, judging from the rank 
growth of sage, mesquite, and grease- 
wood, Avliich cOA-er the land, it would 
not be a very difficult task to sink 
wells and find Avater sufficient for ir- 
rigating purposes. After a few miles 
run from Picacho station, we arrive 
opposite "-Picacho Peak," a noted 
land -mark, and rocky butte on the 
right. It Avas here, at the base of this 
"peak" in May, 1862, AA^here the first 
and only battle Avas fought in Arizona 
between the Confederate and Union 
forces. In the summer of 1861, the 
Union troops Avere AvithdraAvn from 
this Territory, and on the 27th of Feb- 
ruary, following, Cap. Hunter of the 
Confederate forces arrived at Tucson, 
from Texas, and took possession; 
soon after the news reached San 
Francisco that the Confederates had 
control of Tucson, Genl. Carlton, of 
the Federals — iDalifornia column — 
started for Ihis Territory, and Avas 
met by the Confederates at this"peak" 
as above stated. The battle resulted 
in a victory for Genl. Carlton and the 
abandonment of the country by the 
Confederates. 

Red Itock- a side track— is 13.9 
miles from Picacho, and 15.5 miles 
from KiLLiTo, another small station, 
on a little Creek of that name, 17.1 
miles from 

Tucson — pronounced Tu-son. — 
Had we A'isited this place 322 years 
ago, we would have been classed with 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



237 



the "Old Pioneers," instead of a 
"tenderfoot" of 1882. 

Records sliow tliat Tucson is tlie 
Second oldest town in the United 
States; Santa Fe, New Mexico, being 
the first. The first settlements were 
made by the Spaniards in 1560, and a 
presidio or fortification was con- 
structed to protect their settlement 
at San Xavier; and from the appear- 
ance of many of the old adobe build- 
ings, and the aged look of some of 
the citizens, we are not disposed to 
dispute tlie records, or doubt the fact 
that a feWj at least, of the earlier sett- 
lers are still living. 

Tucson is the county seat of Pima 
county, situated on a ine.na or table 
land, gradually sloping to the west- 
ward — overlooking the Santa Cruz 
Valley— in lat. 32 deg. 20 min. north 
and long. 110 deg. 55 min. west of 
Greenwich. Elevation 2,239 feet. It 
is 978 miles from San Francisco; 220 
miles from Deming; 308 miles fi'om 
El Paso, Tex. ; 75 miles north of the 
Mexican boundary; and 370 miles 
from Guaymas, Mexico. 

Sorin, in his sketch of Tucson says : 
"The Santa Cruz River is one of those 
erratic streams, common inthisWest- 
ern Country, which run for a distance 
on the surface, then beneath the 
ground, again on top, and so on. In 
its strange course it so happens, that 
the river comes to the surface about 
two miles south of Tucson and runs 
past the mesa on which the town is 
built, and thus makes some three 
thousand or more acres of land capa- 
ble of irrigation and consequently of 
cultivation. In this rich bottom years 
ago the old mission church of Tucson 
was built by the Jesuits,, and to pro- 
tect the cultivators of the adjoining 
fields a presidio or military camp was 
established; and for self-protection 
incoming settlers congregated about 
the garrison and thus the town grew 
upon its present site." 

The City of Tucson was incorpora- 
ted February 7th, 1877, and the South- 
ern Pacific Railroad was completed to 
it, March 10th, 1880. Its present popu- 
lation is estimated between 8.000 and 
9,000; composed of Spanish, Mexican, 
Indian, American, and English speak- 
ing people. The streets are regularly 
laid out, are narrow with the usual 



Mexican Plaza. In the older portion 
of the city the buildings are con- 
structed of adobe, one story, in the 
old Spanish-Mexican style (where one 
goes out of doors to get into each 
room) with an occasional one of wood,, 
sandwiched in here and there, and oc- 
cupied by the most enterprising busi- 
ness men, — or more recent anivals — 
those who come with the Railroad. 

The business portion of Tucson, is 
about half a mile Avest of the depot, 
between which, and the depot are some 
fine private residences of wood, one 
large hotel — Porter's — commodioua 
depot and freight buildings, and many 
other modern structures in course of 
erection. The Railroad Co. have a 
round-house and quite extensive ma- 
chine and repair shops located here. 

The city supports three daily new^s- 
j^apers, the Citizen, Star, and the 
Journal, besides several weeklies. 

Gas, Water, and Street Railroad 
Companies have been chartered and 
•he present prospects are, that the 
citizens of Tucson will soon be able to 
enjoy all those luxuries. There are 
(piite a number of hotels, principal of 
which are Porter's at the depot, and 
the Palace, at the old town. There 
are two banks ; three flouring mills ; 
two breweries ;two ice manufactories ; 
one foundry and machine shop; six 
churches and church organizations; 
four schools — public and private; 
eight wholesale dry goods houses; 
sixty-six dry goods and grocery stores 
and the usual number of shops of all 
kinds found in a city of the size. As a 
law-and- order-city, Tucson has few 
equals. The carrying of weapons and 
drunkenness is severely punished by 
fine and imprisonment. 

The United Stages Depository for 
the District of Arizona and the United 
States Custom House, and the Deputy 
Collector of Internal Revenue, as well 
as the Surveyor Gen'l Office of Arizo- 
na, is located here. 

There are about 3000 acres of land in 
the vicinity of Tucson susceijtible of 
irrigation; but it is all taken up and 
title can only be had by purchase from 
private individuals. The valley of 
Santa Cruz, in which most of the land 
I'ef erred to is located, is very rich, 
and with ix'rigation, capable of pro- 
ducing two crops annually— corn in 



238 



CROFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



the spring and wheat in the fall. 

Game is not abundant in the vicinity 
of Tucson, but ])ear, deer, antelope 
and wild turkeys can be found in 
the foot-hills and mountains. 

The road south from Tucson, along 
up the Santa Cruz Valley, has been 
for near 300 years the great highway 
between Mexico and Arizona, leading 
directly to the harbor of Guaymas. 
We understand a plan is now matur- 
ing by capitalists, to parallel this old 
road Avith iron rails and the time is 
not far distant, in the nature of things, 
when this route will be traversed by 
the "Iron Horse." 

Resorts,— in and around the city : — 
Silver Lake, is southwest of the city, 
half a mile distant; is caused by a 
dam in the Santa Cruz River, and ex- 
tends over several acres; a race-track 
is adjacent. Boats, bath-houses, 
swimming baths, groves, pavilions, 
hotels, etc., are provided for the ac- 
commodation of visitors. 

Levin's Park— situated on the west 
side and near the heart of the city, in 
a grove of cottonwoods, seven acres 
in extent, in which are located a the- 
atre, music pavilion, billiards, bowl- 
ing, bar, baths, brewery, restaurant, 
shooting gallery, etc., and is patron- 
ized, at times, by all classes. 

San Xavier del Bag- is an old mis- 
sion—nine miles south of the city, in 
Santa Cruz Valley, over 100 years old, 
erected by the Jesuits, for the purpose 
of saving the souls of the Papago In- 
dians. Travelers visiting Tucson usu- 
ally take a run down to this old mis- 
sion — where, strange as it may seem 
— the Mexicans are wont to congre- 
gate at certain seasons of the year, to 
witness bull-fights that tak« place in 
the vicinity. 

Aqua Calient a— Mineral warm 
springs — are situated It miles east of 
the city at the foot of the Mountains, 
and are said to possess medical quali- 
ties. The water is 88 degrees Fahren- 
heit, and contains soda, magnesia, 
iron and sulphur. Cottages and am- 
ple hotel accommodations are pro- 
vided for the public. 

Camp Lowell— Military headquar- 
ters for the Arizona— is shaven miles 
east from the city, and is much visited 
by the citizens of Tucson. 

The mountain system as viewed 



from Tucson is quite extensive. To 
the east, and north-east, is the jagged 
mountain range of SantaCatarina, ris- 
ingfrom the plain, about twelve miles 
from the city, to the height of near 
2,000 feet. Turning to the south, the 
Santa Ritas, boldly appear in a succes- 
sion of peaks, the highest, Mt. Wright- 
son, over 10,000 feet above the plain, 
from twenty-five to fifty miles dist- 
ant; while more to westward, can be 
seen the Atacoso Mountains, at the 
base of which is located the old town 
of Tubae, and the old mission of Tu- 
macacori. Returning to the immedi- 
ate vicinity of the city, the Sierra Del 
Tucson — close the view to the Avest- 
Avard, rising from just across the val- 
ley, completing one of the most beau- 
tiful and interesting landscapes of 
mountain and plain; Avhich Avith the 
Avonderous hues of Arizona's gorgeous 
sunsets, completes a picture that none 
but the hand of the Great Maker can 
produce. 

Stages leaA^e Tucson as follows: 
Arivaca, 65 miles, and Oro Blanco, 77 
miles — three times a Aveek — Monday, 
Wednesday and Saturday. Tubac, 60 
miles, and Calabasas, 67 miles, twice 
a Aveek — Tues. and Sat. Sih^er Hill, 
46 miles, and Silver Bell, 55 miles, 
twice a Aveek — Mon. and Thurs. Old 
Hat District, 45 miles, three times a 
Aveek, Mon., Wed. and Fri. Fort Low- 
ell, 9 miles, and San Xavier, 7 miles- 
daily. Magdalena, 130 miles, Hermo- 
sillo, 275 miles, and Guaymas, 370 
miles, twice a Aveek — Tues. and Sat. 
Altar, 150 miles, and Guaymas via Al- 
tar, 420 miles, twice a Aveek — Mon. and 
Wed. Fare, from six to twenty cents 
per mile, \'arying Avith competition. 

The "life of trade" at Tucson, is de- 
rived from the mining industry. It is 
the great outfitting point for nearly 
CA^ery mining district in the territory, 
also, for many of the mines and camps 
in Sonora. There are 29 mining dis- 
tricts Avithin a radius of 100 miles from 
Tucson ; the greater number of Avhich 
l>urchase all their supplies in that 
city. Some of the mines are exceed- 
ingly rich in gold, silver, lead and 
copper, and the rai')id increase of 
precious metals is most Avonderfid. 
Wells, Fargo and Co.'s report of the 
yield tot 1880, Avas $4,472,471 ; for 1881, 
$8,198,766, an increase, in one year, of 



PACIFIC COAST GUIDE. 



239 



-M 



liii: toA:xxA iiiiAt) — ^x.Ait ill. WKiUHi&i'A. 



$3,72G,295. Arizona is not only rich in 
precious metals, with a mild and 
healthful climate, but is sufficiently 
dry and warm to convince the most 
skeptical in the authenticity of cer- 
tain old bible versions which shall be 
nameless in this connection. Suffice 
it to say, below Ave sive the minimum 
and maximum of Eainfall and Tem- 
perature, as recorded at the following 
Government Forts and Camps in Ari- 
zona for a term of years : 

NAME. $ RAINFALL. TElIPEBAT. 

Fort Yuma, (Yuma City) 3.8i iuch. 35 to 112 deg. 

Fort Prescott, (Prescott) 27.09 " 10 to 91 " 

FortBowie 14.G0 " 21 to 103 " 

Camp Lowell, (Tucson). 10.83 " 19 to 113 " 

Camp Grant 22.54 " 16 to 109 " 

Camp Apache 13.21 " C to 104 " 

Camp McDo-well 14.09 " 18 to 114 " 

CampMojava 13.40 " 27 to 118 " 

CaixipVercfe 14.20 " 5 to 113 " 

Average, 14.07 inch. 17 to 100 deg. 

But the hardy miner and prospector 
does not seem to give the weather a 
passing thought. We meet him every- 
where, going right along with his 
pockets full of "prospects," selling his 
claims; buying his "grub;*' punching 
his "burro," and taking a "smile" re- 
gardless of the weather or anything 
else. 

For Arizona items of interest, see 
Annex No. 64. 

Leaving Tucson, our course is 
south-east, over a broad plain cov- 



ered with sage, mesquitc, and grease- 
wood, 14. G miles to Papago, a small 
sidetiYU'k station, from which we run 
up Killito Creek 13.5 miles to 

Pantaiio— a small station of half a 
dozen buildings, and one store, be- 
sides good depot and freight build- 
ings. This is the nearest shipping- 
point on the railroad for several im- 
portant mining districts, towns, find 
camps. Chief of Avhich ar<': Total 
Wreck, 4 miles; Harshaw. 50 miles; 
Patagonia, GO miles; and Wasliin-^^ton, 
64 miles. Daily stages run toa.U these 
places ; fare, from 10 to 15 cents per 
mile. 

Since leaving Tucson, we have been 
climbing the world, and at Pantano 
are 1,297 feet higher, or 3,536 feet ele- 
vation. 

Mescal — is the next station, 9.3 
miles' from Pantano, and 8.6 miles 
from 

Benson — At present this is a lively 
place. It is situated in San Pedro 
Valley; elevation, 3.578 feet; and is 
the shipping point for the celebrated 
Tombstone Mining District and many 
thrifty mining towns to the south- 
ward; several large stores and for- 
warding houses are located here; a 
hotel, several small shops, a large de- 
pot, and extensive freight ware houses 
together with an immense amount of 



24) 



CEOFUTT S NEW OVERLAND TOURIST 



railroad construction materials ; as 
this is the initial point from which 
the' Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe 
Kailroad Co. are building a railroad 
southward, some people say, to Guay- 
mas, on the Gulf of California; but, 
we could procure no definite informa- 
tion. Certain it is_, the road is com- 
pleted to Contention, 18 miles, and 
still going forward ; yet, at the time 
of our visit, Jan. 14th, 1882, no pas- 
senger trains were running; stages 
were leaving Benson daily for Con- 
tention. 18 miles, and Tombstone, 30 
miles; fare, S2.00 and $3.00 respect- 
ively. Freight for the Mexican state 
of Sonora is forwarded from Benson, 
in immense quantities, the passenger 
travel is also an important item. 

San Pedro Valley is one of the rich- 
est ^tock raising ]iortions of Arizona, 
grass being abundant, and water suf- 
ficient for that purpose. The lands 
are mostly owned by the Spanish- 
Mexican settlers, who are "like the 
dog in the manger," opposed to new 
comers,cultivating only small patches 
of ground and raising only what they 
need for their own subsistance. 

The Tombstone MiningDistrict, has 
attracted more attention than any 
other in the territory. The principal 
mines of this district, lie about eight 
miles east of the San Pedro River, in 
alow cluster of hills, called the Tomb- 
stone Mountains. 

Sorinsays: The region of country 
embraced "in the Tombstone District, 
has long been known to contain min- 
eral. The first discovery of silver in 
this locality was at the "Old Bronco 
Mine," six miles southwest of Tomb- 
stone town. The exact date of the 
first location is not known, but the 
old Bronco mine has been worked in 
years gone by, and produced some 
good ore. There is a dai'k history 
connected Avith this mine, and it is 
said no less than sixteen men have 
been killed or murdered there. The 
discovery of the new mines was made 
in February, 1878, and the extra ordi- 
nary richness was soon noised abroad, 
and prospectors from all parts of the 
country flocked in and many hundred 
claims were recorded. There ai'e four 
towns in the Tombstone District, 
Tombstone, Eichmond, Charleston, 
and Contention. Tombstone, the prin- 



cipal town, is near the Tough Nut 
group of mines, and is already a thriv- 
ing city of several thousand people, 
Richmond, about one and a half miles 
south of Tombstone, has a number of 
business houses. Charleston, on the 
San Pedro River, where the Tomb- 
stone and Corbin mills are located, is 
quite a thriving village of from 500 to 
600 population. Contention City, is 
also on the San Pedro, nine miles be- 
low, at the Contention Mill, is an im- 
portant place, connected with Benson 
by railroad, and is growing rapidly. 
The principal ore i:)roducing mines in 
the district are: The Tough Nut 
group ; the Lucky Cuss mine and 
group ; Contention, Grand Central, 
Empire, Sunset, Emerald, and many 
others that prospect rich. Leaving 
Benson our direction changes to the 
northeast, and we commence to climb 
the Dragoon Mountains; ]iassing O- 
CHOA, a side-track in 9.7 miles, from 
which it is 9.4 miles more to 

Uragoon Hninniit — altitude, 4,- 
614 feet. This point is a natural pass, 
apparently designed by nature for a 
railroad, between the Dragoon Moun- 
tains, on the south, and the Limestone 
Mountains on the north; the grade is 
easy and the work of grading was 
light. Reports, locate recent discov- 
eries of rich minerals in the moun- 
tains near this station. 

Cachise — is ten miles east of the 
summit, named for a noted Indian 
chief, who for twelve years was the 
head devil of the Apache Indians, and 
made his headquarters in the moun- 
tains near. He believed that he and 
his tribe had suffered great wrongs, 
and' most fearfully did he revenge 
them. He has been dead but a few 
years, and the remnant of his tribe are 
now eating at "Uncle Sam's" table on 
the San Carlos reservation. 

Descending into Sulphur Spring 
Valley, 10.8 miles from Cachise, we 
reach 

Willcox— a thriving town of about 
250 population, situated in Sulphur 
Spring Valley, is the centre of trade 
for quite an extensive stock-raising 
and mining region. Altitude, 4,164 
feet. The Dos Cabezas peaks, where 
some rich mines of gold and silver 
are being developed, are twelve miles 
southeast from this station. Camp 



PACIFIC COAST GUII E. 



241 



Bowie, 20 miles. 

The valley, in which Willcox is situ- 
ated, extends north and south about 
50 miles each way, and lies between 
the mountain ranges of Sierra Bonita 
and Chiricahua, on the east, and the 
Galinro and Dragoon on the west. 
The lower portion is called Sulphur 
Spring Valley, and the upper, Ariv- 
aypa Valley. There is no stream of 
note in these valleys, but along the 
base of the ranges of mountains and 
in the foot-hills are many fine springs 
and some brooks. The grass in and 
around these valleys is very rich and 
abundant; and it is recognised by 
stock men as one of the best stock 
ranges in the Territory. At several 
points in the valley sulphur springs 
have been discovered, and at one 
place deposits of salt cover several 
square miles. At Willcox, and in fact 
throu-ghout the valley, an abundance 
of good water can h^ obtained by dig- 
ging wells from ten to fifteen feet in 
depth. 

Stages leave here, every other day, 
for Fort Grant, 24 miles; 'Camp Tho- 
mas, 64 miles ; San Carlos, 99 miles, 
and Globe, 132 miles. Fares, about 15 
cents per mile. 

From Willcox to Eailroad Pass, 8.3 
miles, we ascend 230 feet, reaching an 
elevation of 4,394 feet, the highest point 
reached by the Southern Pacific Bail- 
road on its whole line. From this 
"pass," we descend 635 feet in the 
next 15.4 miles and arrive at 

Boivie — situated in the San Simon 
Valley, and at this time, prospects to 
soon become a place of much import- 
ance. It is a regular dining station ; 
at the Campbell house, in front of 
which all through passenger trains 
stop, the accommodations for guests 
are first-class, and the meals served 
the best on the road. Water, for use 
at the station, is obtained from a well 
300 feet in depth, but in many places 
in the valley it can be obtained from 
25 to 75 feet. Thus, it will be readily 
understood that the San Simon Val- 
ley is not adapted to agriculture, and 
to only a limited extent for stock 
raising, wholly on account of the 
Ecarcity of water, as the soil is rich, 
P'^d the rainfall at certain seasons, 
ju..t sufficient to cover the whole face 
of the land with a coating of nutriti- 

16 



ous grasses. This valley opens in 
New Mexico and extends in a north- 
western direction for near 100 miles to 
a junction v/ith the Gila, affording a 
natural road-way from this station to 
the valleys and mining region in the 
northern part of the Territory. 

We understand a railroad is pro- 
jected down the San Simon Valley, 
with the coal fields of the San Carlos 
Indian Eeservation, as an objective 
point 100 miles distant, and that a 
stage line is soon to be put on this 
route which will reach Camp Grant in 
28 miles ; Camp Thomas, 75 miles ; and 
Globe in 135 miles; already a largo 
amount of freight is forwarded from 
Bowie for the towns. Gov. camps, and 
mines of this region^ 

Fort Bowie, is 15 miles south, but 
we understand, it will be moved to 
near this station, at an early day. 

The Bowie Milling and Mining Co., 
who own 70 gold and silver claims, 
ranging from four to fifteen mile« 
south, are about erecting at this sta^ 
tion a 40 stamp mill to be run by 
electricity. 

From Bowie it is 15.7 miles to th<3 
small station of 

San Simon — from which a stage 
runs daily to Gayleyville, 22 milef^. 
Fare, $4.00. 

The territorial line is crossed 10.9 
miles east from San Simon Station 
and 3.8 miles further we are at 

Steins Pass— altitude, 4,351. It is 
reported, there are some good min- 
eral prospects near. From this sta- 
tion eastward to the Eib Grande River 
there are few objects of interestto the 
traveler. The face of the land is cov- 
ered with a rich growth of grass, but 
devoid of water, except an occasional 
little lake or sink strongly impreg- 
nated with alkali. 

Pyramid — a small station is 
reached in 15.1 miles, from which it is 
4.4 miles to 

L<orclsbnrg; — This is the shipping 
point for Clifton, a celebrated copper 
mining town, 80 miles to the north- 
west. Where are located large smelt- 
ing furnaces, turning out daily over a 
carload of bullion. Hydraulic works 
are also being erected to work placer 
claims in the vicinity. Stages leave 
Lordsburg Mondays and Thursdays 
for Clifton. Fare, $10. 



242 



crofutt's new overland tourist 



South from Lordsburg, two miles, is 
the little mining camp of Shakespeare, 
where is located a smelting furnace. 
The ores, gold and silver, are said to 
be rich. 

The altitude of Lordsburg is 4,245 
feet. It is situated on a broad plain, 
and being devoid of water the Eail- 
road Company was compelled to dig 
for it. At a depth of 100 feet their 
boreing intrument entered a ledge of 
mineral, and followed it 500 feet. The 
assays, made in San Francisco, run 
from $50 to $3,700 per ton. After these 
facts became known to a few of the 
officials of the road, the necessary pa- 
pers were filed to secure thefirid ; wa- 
ter was ignored as a useless commod- 
ity and the "smile" of satisfaction 
pervading the countenances of these 
lucky— embroyo— nabobs— was of that 
brilliant hue, which dispelled all 
thought of water for the future. This 
jirospect was sold recently, to the 
^'Wall St. Gold and Silver Mining Co.," 
for $2,000,000, who are now developing 
the property and erecting a stamj) 
mill and smelting works near the sta- 
tion. 

Leaving Lordsburg, we pass the fol- 
lowing small stations: Lisbon, 10.7 
miles; Separ, 9 miles; Wilna, 11.6 
miles; Gage, 8.8 miles; Tunis, 11.1 
miles, and 8.4 miles further, we are at 

Weniistg;— The junction of Atchi- 
son, Topcka & Santa Fe Eailroad, 
where a connection was made with 
the Southern Pacific, March 8th, 1881. 

Deming, for the first year after the 
roads reached it, was cursed by 
swarms of the most vile and danger- 
ous classes of humanity, resulting in 
many desperate and bloody encount- 
ers. This scum, has now, nearly all 



floated away, leaving only a few stores 
and saloons, a few hundred yards to 
the south from the station, which ap- 
pear to be ekeing out a miserable 
existence on a very limited patronage. 

The RailroadCoinpanies have erect- 
ed at this "junction" a large hotel and 
depot building, in which are located 
the usual waiting rooms, ticket and 
telegraph offices, etc., with a large 
freight ware house, a short distance 
to the westward. The hotel— Deming 
House- -contains 25 rooms, with baths, 
hot and cold water, and is a regular 
eating station for all passenger trains. 

Six horse stages leave Deming dai- 
ly for Silver City and intermediate 
points, carrying passengers, mails, 
and Wells, Fargo & Co's and Adam's 
& Co's express, through in eight 
hours, distance 52 miles. At Silver 
City connections are made with stages 
for Fort Bayard, 9 miles ; Santa Rita 
Copper Mines, 21 miles; Georgetown, 
28 miles; Mogollon Mines, 80 miles, 
and Clifton, 100 miles. Fare, about 
15 cents per mile. 

Distances from Deming: Tucson, 220 
miles ; Yuma, 467 miles ; Los Angeles, 
711 miles; San Francisco, 1198 miles; 
Ogden, Utah, via San Francisco, 2,080 
miles; Omaha, Neb., via Utah, 3,112 
miles; Albuquerque, N.M., 231 miles; 
Santa Fe, N. M., 316 miles; El Paso, 
Tex..S8 miles; New Orleans,viaT.&P , 
from El Paso, 1172 miles : Denver, Co' , 
via La Junta, 761 miles ; viaEspanola, 
711 miles ; Kansas City, 1149 miles. 

With Deming,we conclude our des- 
criptions,for this volume of tlie"Over- 
land," and refer our readers to the 
Time Tables of the several diverging 
Eailroad lines from Deming and El 
Paso. 



For Time Tables Southern Pacific, eastward, see pages 271-2. 

For Time Tables Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe, north and east, see 

page 273. 
For Time Tables Texas & Pacific, east and north, see page 274. 
For many items of general interest, see Annex, co jimencing on opposite page. 
For information in regard to Arizona, see Annex, No. 64. 

^°'-5ri'StSEi!.'S'SJ;r'^"'-'CR0FDTT'S GRIP-SACK GUIDE. 

jmSOl.l) ON THK tkaevs.-=sj& 



JL n^ 2sr E x:. 



In order not to encumber the body of this work with matters that do not directly 
pertain to the main points at issue, the author has originated an " annex," wlierein the 
reader will find a mass of information which has been prepared with great care, and 
embraces condensed descriptions and statistical information gathered from the best 
sources. To these points the reader is frequently referred, throughout the wotk, by a 
number to correspond with the annex sought. The numbers at the bottom of the large 
illustrations, which begin at the first of the book, will be found to correspond with 
those in the annex, giving a description of the same, and,vice versa. 



"So. 1 Annex American Progress.— 

This beautiful picture, whicu is No. 1 of our 
large views, ;s purely national in design, 
and rpresi'nts the United States' portion 
of the American CoTitinent ; the bi^auly 
and variety, from the Atlanti'i to ihe Pacific 
Ocean, illustrating at a glance the grand drama 
of Progress in the civilization, settlement, and 
history of this country. 

In the foreground, the central and principal fig- 
ure, a beautiful and charming female, is floating 
westward through the air, bearing on her forehead 
the " Star of Empire." She has left the cities 
of the East far behind, crossed ttie AUeghanies 
and the "Father of Waters," and still her course 
is westward. In her right hand she carries a book — 
common school — the emblem of e(Jucation and the 
testimonial of our national enlightenment, while 
with the left hand she ui:fold8 and stretches the 
slender wires of the telcirraph, that are to flash 
intelligence throughout the laud. On the rightot 
the picture, is a ctiy, steamships, manufactories, 
schools and churches, over which beams of light 
are streaming and tilling the air — indicative of 
civiliz»ition. The general tone of the picture on 
the left, declares darknt-ss, waste and confusion. 
From the city proceed the three great continental 
lines of railway, passing the frontier settler'srude 
cabin and tending toward the Western Ocean. 
!Ne.xt to tiiese are tlje transportation wagons, 
overland stage, hunters, gold-seekers, pony ex- 
press, the pioneer emigrant, and the war-d<nce of 
the •• noble red man." Fleeing from " Progress," 
and toward the blue waters of the Pacific, which 
shows itself on the left of the picture, beyond the 
snow-capped summits of the Sierra Nevadas, are 
the Indians, buftalo, wild horses, bears, and other 

fame, movintr westward— ever westward. The 
ndians, with their squaws, pappooses, and 
" pony-lodges," turn their despairing faces toward 
the setting sun, as they flee from the presence of 
the wondrous vision. The "Star" is too much 
for them. What American man, woman or child, 
does not feel a heart-throb of exultation as they 
think of the glorious achievements of Progbess 
since the lauding of the Pilgrim Fathers, on 
staunch old Plymouth Rock 1 

This picture was the design of the author of the 
Tourist— is Nation.\i., and illustrates, i:' the 
most artistic manner, all those gigantic resui,,8 of 
American brains and hands, wnich have caused 
the mighty wilderness to blossom like the rose. 



Xo. !4 Annex Passage Ticket lUemorandi . 



'So. 3 Annex. Baggage Check Memoranda. 



244 



^IsriSTE X, 



No. 4. Annex.- RATES OF FARE. 



Sacranieuto, 
Stockton, 
Los Angeles, 
Los Angeles, 
Santa Barbara, 
San r)iego, 
San Jose 
San Francisco, 



1st Glass 2d Class 



New York to San Francisco, California 

Phila lelphiato " " " 

Baltiruore to " " " 

Boston to " " " . . 

Cincinnati to " " " 

Indianapolis to " " " 

Chicago to " " " 

St. Louis to " " " 

Omaha to Grand Island, Nebraska 

North Platte, " 

Sidney, " ..■. 

Denver, Colorado 

Colorado Springs, Colorado 

Pueblo, Colorado 

Cheyenne, Wyoming 

Deadwood, Black Hills, via Stage from Sidney 

Laramie, Wyommg 

Ogden, Utah 

Salt Lake City, Utah 

Virginia City, Montana via Stage from Dillon 

Deer Lodge, " 

Helena, " 

Corinue, Utah 

Boise City, Idaho, via Stage from Shoshone 

Silver City, " " " " 

Baker Citv, Oregon, " " '" " 

Walla Walla, Wash'n," " " " 

Umatilla, Oregon, " " " " 

Dalles. Oregon, " " " " 

Portland, via Stage from Shoshone 

" " " " Kedding 

" " Steamer from San Francisco 

Elko, Nevada 

Battle Mountain, Nevada 

Keno, " 

Virginia City, " via V. & T. K. 11. from Keno. 

Truckee, California 

Marysville, 



all Rail via luxthrop ... 

via Steamer from Sati Francisco. 



!iS137 
13i 
131 
137 
111 
113 
113 
105 

e 

11 

IG 
25 
25 
25 
22 
10 
26 
GO 
G2 
Go 
G8 
G8 
Gl 
92 
99 
106 
lOG 
108 
lU 
120 
139 
120 
80 
8G 
98 
101 
99 
100 
100 
100 
100 
115 
110 
115 
100 
100 



8102 25 

100 75 
99 50 

101 25 

87 50 

88 00 
88 00 
82 00 



22 00 
22 00 
22 00 
20 00 
35 60 



50 00 

52 00 

50 10 

53 10 
53 10 

51 35 
71 60 
78 GO 
85 00 
90 75 
85 00 
85 00 
85 00 

114 25 
85 00 
70 10 
75 00 
75 00 
78 00 
75 00 
75 00 
75 00 
75 00 
78 00 
85 00 
82 50 
85 00 
75 00 
75 00 



Emigrant 



$75 00 
73 50 
69 50 
76 00 
60' 00 
58 00 
58 00 
52 00 



21 20 

40 00 
42 00 
42 00 
45 00 
45 00 

41 75 
53 50 
60 50 
G5 45 
69 00 

65 45 

66 95 
66 95 
84 25 
55 00 
45 00 
45 00 
45 00 
48 00 
45 00 
45 00 
45 00 
45 00 
47 50 
55 00 
52 50 
55 00 
45 00 
45 00 



Children under five years of age, free ; under twelve years, half-fare. 

Cars can be cUartered for carrying passengers; each person must bo provided with a 

Ticket. 



Ko. 5.— Annex. 

OUR WESTEEN COUNTRY 



Past and Tresent — This country can no 
longer be spoken of as the "Far West," as that 
laud is generally conceded to lio nearer sundown, 
or, at least, Vieyond the Kocky Jlountair.s. Ne- 
braska, which wo enter on crossirg the river, so 
lately opened up to tho world, and so hitoly con- 
sidered one portion of the "Wild West," f )rms 
now one of our central States. It possesses a 
genial climate, good water, and a fair supply of 
timber, and the broad prairies of the eastern por- 



tion of the State are dotted with well-cultivated 
and well-stocked farms, that greet tho eye of the 
traveler in every direction, while on all sides 
may bo seen the evidences of thrift and comfort 
found only in a f ai ming region. Wheat, oats and 
corn yield lu.xuriant returns, and all kinds of 
fruits and garden vegetables, incidental to this 
latitude, can be gi'own in profusion. Rarely will 
the traveler find a more magnificent scene, and 
more suggestive of real wealth and prosperity, 
than can bo seen on these broad prairies, when 
the fields of yellow grain or waving corn are 
WHiting fur the harvesters. Miles and miles 
away stretch the undulating ylains, far — aye, 
farther than the eye can see. 



^ei- isT zsr IB :x:. 



245 



In rapid succession we pass the lietter residence 
of the " old settler,'" with liis immense tields of 
grain and herds of stock, on beyond ihe boundaries 
of earlier settlements; and now we reach the rude 
cabin of the hardy settler who has located still 
"farther west," and here, within a few years, will 
arise a home as attractive as those we have left 
■behind, surrounded with orchards, gardens and 
flocks. Here, too, will the snug school-house be 
found, and the white church with its tapering 
spire, pointing the people to the abode of Him 
who hath so richly blessed his childien , There is 
beauty on every hand. The wild prairie flowers, 
of a thousand difl'erent hues and varieties, greet 
the eye at every step; and the tiniest foot that 
ever trod Broadway could scarce reach the ground 
without crushing the life from out some of 
these emblems of purity. And when the cooling 
showers have moistened the thirsty earth, or when 
the morning dew is spangling flower, vine and 
tree, there is more of quiet, graceful beauty— more 
of that spirit floating around us which renders 
man more human, and woman nearer what we 
desire her to be, than can be found within the 
walls of any city . Long will the memory of i hese 
scenes remain impressed on the mind of the trav- 
eler who admires nature in all her phases. 

For a long time, Iowa, Indiana, Michigan and 
Ohio were supposed to contain the wheat-grow- 
ing soil of the Union, and they became known as 
the " (iranaries of the States." But those "gran- 
aries " have pushed themselves a little "farther 
west," if we may be allowed to use the expression. 
Nebraska has retained a portion of the name; 
California and Oregon took the remainder. Ne- 
braska annually produces a large surplus of wheat 
and corn, which finds its way eastward. With 
the advantages possessed by this State; with a 
water-front of several hundred miles on a stream 
navi;:;able the greater portion of the year; with 
the grandest railroad on the continent traversing 
her entire breadth ; with all the resources of com- 
merce at her command: wiih unlimited water 
power for manufactures, it will be strange, indeed, 
it' Nebraska does not sustain her high rank in the 
great family of States. 

Prom our prese'nt stand-uoint the quotation, 
"Westward tub Star op Empire Takes Its 
Wat,'" inust apply to 

Tlie li'"ar West— How often that sentence 
has been quoted, those who are the mo^t lamiliar 
with the growth of our western possessions 
can best remember. So often has it been ut- 
tered, that it has passed iuto a household word, 
and endowed its innocent and unsuspecting 
author with an earthly immortality. From the 
boyhood days of that rcl able and highly re- 
spectable individual, the "Oldest Inhabi- 
tant" of any special locality in the "Eastern 
Stales," it has formed the heading— in large or 
small caps — of nearly every newspaper notice 
which chronicled the fact that some family had 
jacked their household goods and gods (mostly 
goods) and left their native land of woods, rocks, 
churches and school-houses, to seek a home 
among the then mythical prairies of the "Far 
West." But oh ! in later years, how that quotation 
ran across the double columns of these same 
papers in all conceivable forms of type, wheii 
the fact was chronicled that one of our West- 
ern Territories was admitted as a State into the 
Union. 

Well, but where was your "Far West" then, 
where people went when they had " Westward, 
ho! " on the brain? asks one, who speaks of the 
West as that part of our country which lies be- 
tween the summit of the Rocky Mountains and 



the waters of the Pacific Ocean? Well, the "Far 
West" ot that time, that almost mythical region, 
was what now constitutes those vast and lertile 
prairies which lie south and west of the great 
Jakes, and east of and bordering on the Mississippi 
Kiver. All west of that was a blank ; the home of 
the savage, the wild beast, and all unclean things 
— at least so said the " Oldest Inhabitant." 

But our hardy pioneers passed the Rubicon, 
and the West receded before their advance. Mis- 
souri was peopled, and the Father of Waters be- 
came the great natural highway of a mighty com- 
merce, sustained in equal parts by the populous 
and newly made States lying on both its banks, 
which had been carved out of the " Far West " by 
the hands of the hardy pioneers. 

Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, Minnesota, 
Missouri and Iowa, had joined the sisterhood, 
and yet the tide of emigration stayed not. It tra- 
versed the trackless desert, scaled the Rocky 
Mountains, and secured a foothold in Oregon. 
But it passed not by unheeding the rich valleys 
and bioad prairies of Nebraska, which retained 
what became, with subsequent additions, a per- 
manent and thriviug population. Then the yel- 
low gold, which had been found in California, 
drew the tide of emigration thitherward, and in a 
few years our golden-haired sister was added to 
the number comprising the States of the Union. 

Oregon and Nevada on the western slope, Kan- 
sas and Nebraska on the east, followed, and, later, 
c olorado, and still we have Dakota, Idaho, Mon- 
tana, WashiDgtou, Utah, Arizona, and New Mex- 
ico Territories, to say nothing of Alaska, waiting 
the time when they too shall be competent to add 
their names to the roll of honor and enter the 
Union on an equality with the others. Thus we 
see that the "Par West" of to-day has become 
far removed from the West of thirty — or even ten- 
years ago, and what is now tiie central portion of 
our commonwealth was then the Far, Far West. 

All is Changed- To-day the foam crested 
waves of the Pacific Ocean bear on their bosoms a 
mighty and steadily increasing commerce. 
China, Japan, Australia, the Sandwich Islands, 
South America, and the Orient are at our doors. 

A rich, powerful, populous section, comprising 
three States, has arisen, where but a few years 
since the Jesuit missions among the savages were 
the only marks ot civilization. And all over the 
once unknown waste, amid the cosy valleys and on 
the broad plains, are the scattered homes of the 
hardy and brave pioneer husbandmen ; while the 
bleak mountains — once the home of the savage and 
wild beast, the deep gulches and gloomy canyons, 
are illuminated with the perpetual fires of the 
'■ smelting furnaces," the ring of pick, shovel and 
drill, the clatter of stamps and booming of blasts, 
all tell of the presence ot the miner, and the 
streams of wealth which are daily flowing into our 
national cofl'ers are rapidly increasing ; for, just in 
proportion as the individual becomes enriched, to 
does his country partake of his fortune. 

Condensed History— it is only a score of 
years ago since the Oovernment of the United 
States, in order to better protect her c'.tiz°us that 
had spread themselves over the wild expanse of 
country between the Missouri River and the Pa- 
cific Ocean, and from the Mexican on the south 
nud the British possessions on the north, estab- 
lished a system of military forts and posts, extend- 
ing north and south, east and wet- 1, over this Terri- 
tory. Though productive of much good, they were 
not sulflcieiit to meet the requirements of the 
times, and in many places settlers and miners 
were murdered with impunity by the Indians. 
Wise men regarded rapid emigration as the only 



246 



^^ 2Sr ZnT E^C. 



safe plan of security, and this could not be accom- 
plished without swifter, surer, aud cheaper means 
of transporting the poor, wh > would gladly avail 
themselves of the opportunity to possess a free 
farm or reach the gold fields of the West. The 
railroad and telegraph — twin sisters of civilization 
— were talked of, but old fogies shook their heads 
In the pleutitude of their wisdom, piously crossed 
themselves, and clasred with a firmer grasp their 
money bags, when Young America dared broach 
the subject, "No, sir, no; the thing is totally 
absurd; impracticable,sir; don't talk any more of 
such nonsense to me," they would reply, as they 
turned away to go to their church or to their stock 
gambling in Wall street — probably the latter occu- 
pation . But Young America did not give up to 
this theory or accept the dictum of Moneybags; 
and as the counties of the West grew and ex- 
panded under the mighty tide of immigration, 
they clamored for a safe aud speedy transit be- 
tween themand their "Fatherland." Government 
with its usual red-tape delays aud scientific way of 
how not to do it, heeded not the appeal, until the 
red hand of War— of Kebelion— pointed out to it the 
stern necessity of securing, by iron bauds, the fair 
dominions of the West from foreign or domes- 
tic foe. 

Notwithstanding that Benton, Clark, and others 
had long urged the necessity and practicability of 
the scheme, the wealth and power which would 
accrue to the country from its realization, the idea 
found favor with but few of our wise legislators 
until they awoke to the knowledge that even the 
loyal State of California was in danger of being 
abandoned by those in command, and turned over 
to the insurgents ; that a rebel force was forming 
in Texas with the Pacific coast as its objective 
point; that foreign and domestic mechiuations 
threatened the dismemberment of the Union into 
three divisions; not until all this stared them in 
the face could our national Solonssee the practica- 
bility of the scheme so earnestly aud ably advocated 
by Sargent of California aud his able coadjutors in 
thenoble work. To this threatened invasion of 
our Western possessions, what had Government to 
oft'er for successful defense? Nothing but a few 
half-finished and illy-manned forts around the bay, 
and the untaught militia of the Pacific coast. Un- 
der this pressure was the charter granted; and it 
may truly be said that;!/it; road was inaugurated 
by the grandest carnival of blood the world has 
ever known; for, without the pressure of the re- 
bellion, the road would probably be in embryo to- 
day. Although the American people had been 
keenly alive to the importance ol a speedy transit 
between the two extremes of the Continent ever 
since the discovery of gold on the Pacific slope, 
up to this time the old, vague rumors of barren 
deser's, dark, deep, and gloomy gorges, tremend- 
ous, rugged, snow-clad mountains, and the wild 
savage, made the idea seem preposterous. Even 
the reports of the emigrants could not convince 
them to the contrary ; nor yet the reports of the 
Mormons who marked and mapped a feasible route 
to Salt Lake City. And it is worthy of remark, 
that, for over 700 miles the road follows vi ry closely 
their survey. 

Practical, earnest men, disabused the minds of 
the people regarding the impracticability ol the 
scheme, after the road had became a national ne- 
cessii;y — a question of life and unity of the Eepub- 
lic. The great work has been accomplished, and 
to-day the locomotive whiils its long train, filled 
with emigrants or pleasure seekers, through that 
region which, only a few years ago, was but a dim. 
undefined, mythical land, composed of chaos, and 
the last faint efforts of nature to render that cha- 



otic State still more inhospitable and uninviting. 
IIovv great the change irom the ideal to the reai ! 
For three hundred miles afterleaving Omaha, that 
vague " Great American Desert " proves to be as 
beautiful and fertile a succession of valleys as can 
be found elsewhere, under like geographical posi- 
tions. Great is the change indeed; still greater 
the changes through which'our country has passed 
during the period Irom the commencement to the 
ending' of our proudest national civil record, save 
one. We live in a fast age; the gentle breeze of 
to-day was the tornado ot fifty years ago. 

In noting the history of the Continental railroad 
we must speak of the attempts in that direction 
which had been made by other parties . Missouri, 
through her able and liberal legislature, was the 
first State to move iu the construction of a na- 
tional or continental railroad. The Legislature of 
that State granted a charter, under which was in- 
corporated the Missouri and Pacific Railroad Co., 
who were to build a road, diverging at Franklin, 
southwest, via Rollo, Springfield, Neosho (the . 
Galena district), and along the line of the thirty- ' 
sixth parallel to Santa Fc, New Mexico. From 
Santa Fe, to San Francisco preliminary surveys 
were made, and had it not been for the rebellion, 
this road would undoubtedly have been completed 
long ere this; good authorities placing the limit 
at 1864. The cause which compelled the construc- 
tion of the Union and Central roads, destroyed Xha 
Southern. Passing, as it did, mostly through 
Southern, hostile territory. Government could not 
aid or protect it in its construction, and conse- 
quently the work was suspended. The States of 
Arkansas and Tennessee, by their legislatures, 
proposed to assist the work, by constructing a 
railroad from Little Piock, to connect with the M. 
& P., somewhere between the ninety-eighth and 
one hundred and second degree of longitude, and 
for that purpose a charter was granted. 

Org:anizatioii of the Paoilio Bail- 
road — The evident, and we might add, the im- 
l)erative necessity of connecting the East and 
West, and the intervening Territories, encouraged 
the corporators of the great trans-continental line 
to apply to the Government for aid. Many meas- 
ures were devised aud laid before the people, but the 
supposed impregnability of the Rocky Mountains, 
and other natural obstacles to be encountered, 
caused a hesitancy even then on the part of our 
energetic people to commence the great work. To 
attempt to lay the Iron rail through vast tracts of 
unknown country, inhabited by wandering, hostile 
tribes of savage nomads ; to scale the snow-clad 
peaks of the Rocky Mountains with the fiery lo- 
comotive, seemed an undertaking too vast for 
even the American people to accomplish. Butthe 
absolute importance, the urgent necessity of 
such a work, overcame all objectious to the 
scheme, and in 186'2 Congress passed an act, which 
was approved by President Lincoln on the first day 
of July of that year, by which the Govirnment 
sanctioned the undertaking, and promised the use 
of its credit to a'din its speedy completion. The 
act was entitled '-An act to aid in the construc- 
tion of a railroad and telegraph line from the Mis- 
souri River to the Pacific Ocean, and to secure to 
the Government the use of the same for postal, 
military, and other purposes." 

liaiid <jJraiit— The Government grant of 
lands to the great national highway, as amended, 
was, every alternate section of land for 20 miles on 
each side of the road, or 20 sections, equaling 12,- 
80O acres for each mile of the road. By the Com- 
pany's table, the road, as completed, is 1,776 18- 
100 miles long from Omaha to Sacramento. This 
would give the companies 22,735,10-1 acres, divided 



j^ znt isT IE x:. 



247 



as follows: Tnion Pacific, 13,295,104; Central Pa- 
cific, 9,440,000. 

By muiual a.trreement between the Union and 
Central companies, made several years ago, Og- 
den. In Utah, has been decided upon as the 
"junct on " of the two roads. 

In addition to the grant of lands and right of 
way. Government agreed to 1> sue its thirty year six 
per cent, bonds in aid of the work, graduated as 
follows: for ihe plains portion of the road, $16,- 
000 per mile; for the next most difficult portion, 
g32,000 per mile; for the mountainous portion, 
$48,000 per mile. 

The Union Pacific Railroad Co.built 525 78-100 
miles, for which they received $1H,000 per mile ; 
363 eOMOOO miles at $32,000 per mile ; 150 miles at 
$48,000 permile, makine a total of $si5,2.!t),512. 

The Central Paci-fic Railroad Co. built? 18-100 
miles at $16,000 per mile ; 580 32.100 miles at $32,- 

000 per mile; I5ii miles at $48,000 per mile, making 
a total of $25,885,120. 

The total subsidies for both roads amount to 
$52,121,632. Government also guaranteed the in- 
terest on the companies' first mortgage bonds to 
an equal amount. 

Cost of coiistriictioii. material, etc.— 

1 1 the construction of the whole line, there were 
used about SOO.OOO tons of iron rails, 1,700.000 fish 
plates, 6,800,000 bolts, 6,126,:375 cross-ties, 23 505,500 
Hpikes. 

Besides this, there was used an incalculable 
amount of sawed lumber boards for building, tim- 
ber for trestles, bridges, etc. Estimating the cost 
of the road with equipments complete by that of 
other first-class roads ($105,<X)0), per mile and we 
have the sum of $186,498,900 as the approximate 
cost of the work. 

We have not had much to say heretofore in re- 
gard to the 

Importance of the Roa«i— to the Ameri- 
can people, the Government, or the wurld at large, 
simply from the fact that it seemed to us, anything 
we might 8«y wou'.d be enUnhj suptrjliious, as 
the incalculable advantages to all tould admit of 
no iJOS&lble doubt. We contented oursclvus in an- 
ntially culling attention to the vast extentof rich 
mineral, agr cultural and grazing country opened 
up — a vast country which had heretofore been con- 
sidered woitklfss. We have pointed out, step by 
step, the most important features, productions, 
and advantages of each section traversed by the 
road; statud that tho East and West were now 
connected by a short and quick route, over which 
the vast trade of China, Japan, and the Orient 
could fiow in its transit eastward; and, finally, 
that its importance to the miner, agriculturalist, 
f tock-raiser, the Governmeni , and the world at 
large, few,\i any, could estimate. 

To those who are continually grumbling about 
the Pacific railroad, and forget the history of the 
pa>t, proftissiug to think that these railroad com- 
panies are great debtors to the Government, we 
would most respectlully submit 

Facts in Brief.— On the 18th day of March, 
1862, before the charter for the Pacific railroad 
wa^ granted, while the country was in the midst of 
a civil war, at a time, too, when foreign war was 
most imminent— the Trent affair showed how im- 
minent — and the country was straining every nerve 
for national existence, and capital, ««««i/«''/y 
cautious, 3Ir. Campbell, of Penn., Chairman of the 
Housu Committ' e on the '' Pacific Kailroad ' 
(See Congressional Globe, page 1713, session 2d, 
37th Congress), said : 

"The road is a necessity to theGovSrnment. It 
is Ihe Government that is asking individual cap- 
italists to build the road. Gentlemen are ULder 



the impression that it is a very great benefit to 
these stockholders to aid them to an extent of 
about half the capital required. I beg leave to call 
the attention of gentlemen to the fact that it is the 
Government which is under the necessity to con- 
struct the road. If the capitalists of the country 
are willing to come forward and advance half the 
amount necessary for this great enterprise, the 
Government is doing little in aiding the Company 
to the extent of the other half by way of a loan." 

Again, (page 1,911)—" It is not supposed that in 
the first instance the Company will reimburse the 
interest to the Governijient; it will reimburse it 
in transportation." JNIr. White said: "I under- 
take to say that not a cent of these advances will 
ever be repaid, nor do I think it dfsirable that 
they should be, as this road Is to be the highway 
of the nation." 

In the Senate (see Congressional Globe, page 
2,257, 3d vol., 2d session, 37th Congress) Hon. 
Henry Wilson, from Mass., said: 

" I give no grudging vote in giving away either 
money or land. I would sink $100,000,000 to build 
the road, and do it most cheerfully, and think I 
had done a great thing for my country. What are 
$75,000,000 or $100,000,000 in opening a railroad 
across the central. regions of this Continent, tkat 
shall connect the people of the Atlantic and Pa- 
cific, and bind us together? Nothing. As to the 
lands, I don"t grudge them." 

Nine years later— after the road had been com- 
pleted nearly two years— SenatorStewart, from the 
Committee on the Pacific railroad, said in his re- 
port to the U. S. Senate: 

"The cost of the overland service for Ihe whole 
period— from the acquisition of our Pacific coast 
possessions down to the completion of the Pacific 
railroad— was over $8,000,0(10 per annum, and thia 
cost was constantly increasing. 

"The cost, since the completion of the road, is 
the annual interest "—[which includes all the 
branches— Ed.]— $3.897,129— to which must be 
added one-half the charges for services performed 
by the company, about $1,163,1:38 i er aninim, 
making a total expenditure of about $5,000,000, 
and showing a saving of at least $3,000,000 per 
annum. 

' This calculation is upon the basis that none 
of the interest will ever be repaid to the United 
States, except what is paid by the services, and 
that the excess of interest advanced over freights 
is a total loss. 

" In this statement no account ia made ol the 
constant destruction of life and private property 
by Indians ; of the large amounts of money paid 
l)y the Secretary of the Treasury as indemnity for 
damages by Indians to property in the Gii\ern- 
ment gervic' on the i)lains, tinder theact ot March 
3, 1819; of the increased mail facilities, of the pre- 
vention of Indian wars, of the increased value of 
public lands, of the development of the coal and 
iron mines of Wyoming, and the gold and silver 
mines of Nevada and Ut:th; of the value of the 
road in a commercial point of view in utilizing 
the interior of the continent, and in facilitating 
trade and commerce with the Pacific coast ana 
Asia; and, above all, iu cenientitg the Union and 
furnishing security in the i vent of foreign wars." 

Remember that the Government by charter ex- 
acted that these companies should complete their 
line by 1876 ; but, by almost superhumau exertion, it 
was completed May 10, 1869— and the Government 
has had thebenefit of the road seven years before 
the company were compelled by law to finish it. 

Now, if we take no account of the millions the 
Government saved during the buildingof the road 
- and at their own figures— the saving during the 



2i8 



A.i^2sr:B 



seven years previous to 1876 has netted the Gov- 
ernment $21,000,000, besides j)aying the interest 
on the ivhole amount of bonds. 

Again, if it cogt the Government, before the 
completion of the Pacific railroad, according to 
]Mr. Stewart, '• over $8,000,000 per annum, and 
this cost was constantly increasing'''' how fast 
was this increase? Could it be less than six per 
cent, per annum? Should the flirnres be made on 
the basis of six per cent , the Government must 
have saved, previous to l87tj, in the seven years 
that the line was completed— before the com- 
panaes were compelleu to complete it -over thirty 
MILLIONS OF DOLLARS. Thls, too, after the Gov- 
ernment deducts every dollar of interest on <Aei?' 
own bonds issued to tlio companies to a^rf the con- 
struction of the road. 

Tlie above are some few of the advantages of 
the Pac'fic railroad to the Government, and, con- 
sequently, to the country at large. 

Tlie States and Territories on the line of the 
Union and Central Pacific railroads, or immedi- 
ately tributary to it, contained a population, m 
1860, of only 5.54,301, with 232 miles of telegraph 
line and 32 miles or railway. This same copeof 
country contained a population, according to the 
census of 187'i, of 1,011.971, and w is encompassed 
by over 13,000 mi es of telegraph lines and 4,191 
miles of railroads, co/?y;^eZec?, and many more in 
progress, in which was invested tbe enormous 
capital of $363,750,000. Add to the ahove the im- 
mense amount of capital invested— in quartz 
mills, smelting furnaces, development of mines, 
and other resources of the country, within the 
same ten years — then sho;ild w^e bring all the fig- 
ures down to the present times, the grand total 
would be comparatively an astonishing romance. 

Where, but a few years ago, the buftalo and 
other game roamed in countless thousands, and 
the savages skulked in the canyons, and secret 
hiding-place», where they could pouuce out tin- 
awares upon the emigrant; the hardy pioneers 
who have made the wilderness if not '• to blossom 
like the rose," a safe pathway for the present 
generation, by laying down their lives in the 
cause of advancing civilization, now are to he 
seen hundreds of thousands of hardy emigrants, 
with their horses, cattle, sheep, and domestic ani- 
mals; and ihe savages are among the things that 
have " moved on." 

fc;runjl)lers— The great hue and cry that 
are made at times by the people and i)ress of the 
country, in regard to "giving away the lands." I 
" squandering 'the public domain," etc., which 
censure the Government for giving, and the rai - 1 
road company for receiving grants of land in aid i 
of this road, arc very surprising in view of the fore- 1 
going lacts. We wouki like to know what the 
lands en the line of these railroads would be 
worth without the road? 

Did the Government ever sell nny? Could the 
Goveruniout ever sell them? ><ever. It could 
not ri^alize as much from a million of acres as it 
would cost their survejors and land-agents for ci- 
gars while surveying and lookii g after them. 
When the Pacific road coii^mouced. there was not 
a land office in Colorado, Wyoming, Montsua. 
Utah, or Nevida, and only one or two in each of 
the other States or Territories. On the other 
Land, by the building of the road, many millions 
of dollars have already found their way into the 
Government treasury, and at, just double thevsual 
pi'iceper acre.. 'I'hese grumblers would place the 
Government in the position of the boy who wanted 
to eat Ms apple, sell it, and then get credit for 
giving it away. O! how generous. 



No. G Annex. The IlisH School at 

Omaha — Au illustration of which we present on 
isage 29, stands on the site of the old State House 
of Nebraska, and is known as "Capitol Hill " 
It was completed in IS / 6, and cost 82'<(»,000. It 
is 1 76 feet long and so feet wide. The main 
spire rises 185 feet from the ground. 

The building is eoiistructeil in the most sub- 
stantial manner, which, for convenience, beauty 
in design, and finish throughout, has but few, if 
any, superiors in the western country, 

.Xo. 7 Annex, fr'irst S^teain J rain— See 
illustration and description on page 56. 

i>iiO. « Annex. The Madrone Tree— See 
description, page 164. 

Xo. 10 Annex. Jack Slade — Virginia 
Dale was originally a stage station on the 
old Denver, Salt Lake and California road, 
and was laid out and kept by the notorious 
Jack Sladc, who wag division superintend- 
ent for the old C. O. C. Stage Co., from 1860 
to 1863. It was supposed that Slade was the head 
of a gang of desperadoes who infested the coun- 
try, running oif stock from the emigrants, and ap- 
propriating the same. At any rate he was a noted 
desperado, hav:ng, i>, is said, "killed thirteen men. 
The last of his exploits, cast of the mountains, 
was the wanton and cruel muriler of Jules Burg, 
the person who gave his name to Jiilesburg. 
Slade had a quarrel with Jules in 1861, which 
ended in a sh otmg scrape, wherein Slade was 
beaten — or, as their class would say, '"forced to 
take water."' In 1863 some of the drivers on the 
line, friends and employes of .Slade's, decoyed 
Jules to the Cold Spring ranche, on the North 
Platte River, kept at the time by old Antoine 
Runnels, commonly known as "the Devils left 
bower." He was a great; friend of Slade"s, who 
appears to have rightfully earned the title of 
"right bower" to that same warm-natured indi 
vidual. The place where this tragedy occiured is 
50 miles north of Cheyenne, and 25 miles below 
Fo"t Laramie, whither Slade repaired from Cot- 
tonwood Springs (opposite McPherson stati'n) 
in an extra coach as soon as he wag notifi ed of the 
capture of his old enemy. He drove night and 
day, arriving at Cold Spring ranche early in the 
morning. On alighting from the coach he fouLd 
Jules tied to a post in a coral, m such a position 
as to render him perfect'y heljjless. Slade shot 
him twenty-three times, taking care not to kill 
him, cursing all the time in a most fearful man- 
ner, returningto the ranche for a " drink" between 
shots. While firing the first twenty-two shots, he 
would tell Jules just where he was going to hit 
him, adding that he did not intend to kill him 
iram diately; that he intended to torture him to 
death. During this brutal scene, seven of Slade's 
friends stood by and witnessed the proceedings. 
Unable to provoke a cry of pain or a sign of fear 
from the unfortunate Jules, he thrust the pistol 
into his mouth, and at the Iwenty-th rd shot blew 
his head to pieces. Slade then cut the ears from 
his victim, and put them in his pocket. 

In the saloons of Denver City, and other places, 
he would take Jules' ears out of his pocket, throw 
them down on the bar, and openly boasting of the 
act, would demand the drinks on his bloody 
pledges, which were never refused him. Shortly 
after this exploit, it became too hot for him in 
Colorado,, and he was forced to flee. From 
thence he went to Virginia City, Montana, where 
he continued to prey upon society. The people 
in that country had no love or use for his kind of 
people, and after his conduct had become insup- 
portable, the Vigilantes hung him. 



-A. INT ZiT :E 2C. 



219 



nis •^'ifo arrived at the scene of execution just 
in time to behold his dead l)ody. She had ridder 
on horsc-l)ack, 15 miles, for the avowed purpose 
of frhoootiiig blade, to save the disgrace of hav- 
ing him hung, and she arrived at the scene with 
revolver in hand, only a few minutes too late tc 
execute her scheme — Jack Slade, the desperado, 
was dead— and he died — "with his boots on." 

Xo. 1 :{ Annex. Wiioav l>ilTi^•^lltie^— The 
Central Pacifict ompany commenced the erection 
of snow-sheds at the same tiiue with their tracb- 
iaying over the Sierra Nevada Moui'tains, and 
the result has been their trains have never been 
delayed as often er as long as on many roads in 
tile Eastern States. The depths of snow-fall and 
the necessities for suow-sheds over the Sierras 
were known, and could be guarded against, but 
further to the eastward, over the Rocky Moun- 
tains, on the route of the Union Pacific, no such 
necessity for protection against snow was 
thought to exist ; hence the blockade of February 
and March, 1!-'G9. 

The Union Pacific Company immediately took, 
as was thought by everybody at the time — am- 
jile precautions to protect their cuts from the 
drifting snow, bj- the erection of snow-fences and 
snow-sheds at every f xposed point, but the win- 
ter of 1S7 1 -2 proved to be one of unusual — un- 
heard-of severitj'. The snow caused annoying 
delays to passenger and freight traCic, as well as 
costing the company a largo amount of money 
to kaep the road ojjeu. Butthe lesson taught was 
a good one in enabling the company to talve such 
measures as were necessary to protect their road 
against all iiossible contingencies in the future, 
which they hure clone, by rais-'ngtheir tracks and 
building additional snow-sheds and fences. 

On the "Central" there are nearly 50 miles of 
enow-sheds ; one continuous of 28 miles in 
length. On the "Union" there are about 20 
miles, and innumerable snow-fences. 

]Vo. 15 Ak.nex. State Cjjpit<»l of Cali- 
fornia — See page 173. 

Xo. 16 Annex. l'astell«"tecl Rooks at 
Oreen Kivei- — As the subject of the large 
illustration. No. 2, is described on page 72; it 
will be unnecessary to repeat it here. 

Xo 17 Annex. Memories of Fort 
Britlger— which were handed to us by one o*" 
our iriends, who was with the tirst party of sol 
diers who arrived at the place where the fort now 
stands: 

'• Early in the winter of 1857, on the Zid of No- 
vember, the winds were blowing cold and bleak 
over tbe snow-covered ridges gurrounding Bridt'ei 
—a town with a significant name, but nothing' but 
a name except an old stone building with the ;<p- 
pcllation of fort attached to it, built by the Mor 
moiis,and surrounded by a small redoubt and 

cAe ta //a' </p/me pierced for three six-pound mou a 
tain howitzeis." 

"The U. S. forces, comprising the fifth, seventh 
and tenth lufantry, second dragoon^^iaud four com 
paui'-s of the fourth artillery, the who e unde. 
command vf Bngadier-(ieneral Albert Sidney 
Johnson, were on their way to Salt Lake'City 
The filth, under Major Riigg'es ; the seventh, un- 
der Colonel Morrison; the second dragoons, un- 
der Colonel Howe; the fouitli ar'illery, under 
Major Williams, entered Bridger on the 23d oJ 
November and established a c imp; whi e a part 
of the supply tr in accompanying the expediti> n 
numbering at least 160 wagons, wa-" lohind.de 
layeel by heavy snows, entirely separated from 
the comujand, and forced to encauip about one 



mile f om eafh other on the Bi^aml Little S.indy 
Rivers." [Note— These streams are tnl)i.tarie8 
of Green River on the east, rising i.earSouih Pass, 
about 160 miles north of Bridger.] 

"While encam|)ed there, a party of Mormons, 
under command of Orson Pratt, the generalit-sim j 
of the so-called Mormon Legion, assisted by ouj 
Fowler Wells, another formidible leader of the 
Mormon church militant, dashed iu and sur- 
rounded the trains in the dark hours of the night, 
completely surprising the entire p aty, not one 
escaping to give the alarm. After taking the 
arms and equipments from the men, ihoy gava 
them a very limited amount of provisions to last 
them through to Leavenworth, Kansas, allowing 
them at the rate of five head of cattle for twenty 
men, and then started them oflF in the wilderness 
to reach that place— about 1,000 miles distant/— 
with no weapons other than their pocket knives 
with which to protect themselves against the In- 
dians, or to procure game when their limited 
supply of provisions should become exhausted. 
After ac omplishing this soldierly, humane and 
Christian act, the Mormons set fire to the train, 
burning up everything which they could n t carry 
away, and retreated, driving the stock with them, 
while those left to starve turned their faces east- 
ward. There were 2:30 souls in that despoiled 
party, only eight of whom ever reached the border 
settlements; the knife of the savage, and starvation, 
finishing the cruel work begun by t"ie merciful 
Mormons. The survivors reached Leavenworth, 
in Jane, 1858, briuL'ing the ead intelligence of the 
fate of their comrades. 

"The loss of these trains necessarily cut short 
the supplies in Bridger. The troops were put on 
short rations, and, to add to their horror, the beef 
eattic accompanying the expedition had nearly 
all frozen to death, 'eaving but a few head in 
camp. 

"At Black Fork, the command lost over 300 head 
in one nigh*; the horses and mules dying, n about 
an equal ratio. Before reaching Brielger, the 
dragoons were compelled to leave their sndelles, 
which they buried in the snow, the horses being 
unable to carry them. The animals were com- 
liellel to subsist on sage-brush, for two-thirds of 
the time, and then, to obtain this fibrous shrub, 
they were compellpcl to remove snow several 
feet deep. The men bad no other fuel ; no water 
only as they melted snow, for three weeks be- 
fore reaching Bridger. 

"When the news arrived at the camp that the 
trains were clestroyeil, the troops immediately 
liegaii to forage for anything that was palatable, 
well knowing that no supphes coultl reach them 
before late in the spring. The snow was then; 
on an average, frcm six to seven feet eleep, and 
the game hail mostly left the hills. The rations 
were immediately reeluced to one-half, but even 
this pittance failed on the 2Sth day of Februarj', 
when one-quarter ration per man was issued, be- 
ing the last of all their stores. Two 100-pound 
sacks of flour were secured by Maj. E. R. S. Can- 
by, who pave for them 8300 in gold. They were 
liiacedinhis tent, which stood \vhere the old flag- 
staff now stands, and he supposed his treasure 
secure. 

"But that night a pai-ty of men belonging to 
Company I, Kith Infantry, commandetf by Lieut. 
Marshall, made a coui) d'etat on the tent, inilling 
out the pins and throwing the tent over the as- 
tonishecl Major, but securing the flour, with 
which they escaped in the darkness, and suc- 
ceeeled iu hiding it about a mile from cami), in 



250 



.^ IST IsT IE X:. 



the sage-bi-ush. All was confusion. The long- 
roll was beaten ; the troops turned out and an- 
swered to their names, no one being absent. So 
the matter ended for the time. The next day, at 
guard mount, the Major commenced a pert^onal 
search among the tents for his flour. He found— 
what? In oDe tent, two men were cooking a piece 
of mule meat; in another, he found five nn n cut- 
ting up the frozen skin of an ox, preparatory to 
making soup of it, the only other ingredient to"the 
savory mess being a little tlour. Overcome by the 
sight of so mucn wretchedness, the Major sat 
down and cried at his inabilltv to assist them. lie 
asked the men if they could obtain nothing better 
to eat, and was answered in the negative. 

"The severity of the suffering endured by the 
men nearly demoralized them, still thev went out 
foraging, dragging their wasted forms through the 
snow with great difRcultv. Some would meet 
with success in their hunts at times: others would 
not. The mules and horses were either killed and 
eaten by the men, or died of cold and hunger, 
which left them without the means ot supplying 
their camp with wood, only sm they hauled it 
themi-ehes. But the men did nut murmur. 
Twenty oi thirty would take a wagon and haul 
it five or six miies to the timber, and alter loading 
it with wood, haul it to camp. Ea( h regiment 
hauled its own wood, thus securing a daily suppiy. 
Some days a stray creat ire would be slaic by the 
hunters, and there would be rejoicing in the camp 
once more. 

" Early in the spring of 1858 most of the men de- 

Sarted for Salt Lake City, leaving companies B, 
land K, of the 10 Inf;iutry, and company F, 7th 
Infant ry. Twenty-seven men from eaeh company 
were detailed to go to the pineries, 25 miles away, 
to cut timber with which to erect quarters. On 
arriving iu the pinery, they found an old saw mill 
and race, which had been used by the Blormons, 
and everything convenient but the necessarv ma- 
chinery. Luckily the quarter-master's department 
had the required machinery, and soon they had a 
saw mill in good running order. By the 15th of 
of September, 1858, the quarters wei-e up and 
ready for use. They were large enough for five 
comijanies, including a chapel, hospital, sutler's 
store, guardhouse, etc. 

"The Fourth of July, ISoS, was duly observed 
and honored. The flag-staff wrs raised in the 
center of the parade ground, the flag hoisted by 
Major Cauby, and prayers said by Jiajor Gatlin. 

•'On the 2odof September, 1858, a large train 
of supplies arrived, causing great joy among the 
troops. Two days later three long trains of suji- 
plies filed thi-ough the place on the way to Salt 
Lake City. 

Xo. IS Annex. Ilansfins Uock, Utah- 
See description on page 97 of this book. 

Ifo. 19 Annex. J^tt-aiulioat K«ek— The 
large illustration, No. 6, is one of many beautiful 
vtev.'s to be seen while passing through Echo and 
Weber canyons, Utah. From our point of view 
the appearance of Steamboat Eock is exceeding- 
ly perfect. The lines (seams iu the rocks) run 
gracefully up for 300 or 400 feet, and in the! 
been of the moon the sage-brush, dwarf cedars, 
and other shrubs, growing along the uiiper cre- 
vices ca^.i easily be conjectured into a load of, 
passengers worthy of the mighty vessel, but she 
stands in stone, an<l the ship carpenters— the 
elements — are steadily taking her timbers apart. 

J*o. a« Annex. I'uUdy Jliles' Kule— 
Mr. Miles, or "Paddy," as he was familiarly 
called, was foreman to the Casement Broth- 



ers, who laid the track of the Union Pacific 
railroad. One morning, Paddy started down 
Echo Canon with a long train of flat cars, six- 
teen in number, loaded with ties and iron rails 
for the road below Echo City, where were then, 
as now, the station, switches, etc. The reader 
will remember that from the divide to the mouth 
of Echo Cairou is a heavy grade, no level place on 
which cars W'ould slack their sileed. 

The train had in-oceeded but a few miles down 
the canon, going at a lively rate, when the en- 
gineer discovered thtit the train had piarted, and 
tour loaded cars had liecn left behind. Where the 
train jiarted the grade was eas}', hence that jtor- 
tion attached to the locomotive had gained about 
half-a-mile on tho stray cars. But when discov- 
ered they were on hea\'y grade and coming down 
on the train with lightning speed. What was to 
be done? The leading train could not st«Sp to 
jnck them up, for at tho rate of speed at which 
they were approaching, a collision would shiver 
both trains, destroying them and the lives of 
those on board. 

There wore two men, Dutchmen, on the loose 
cars, who might put on the brakes, and stop the 
runaway. The whistle was sounded, but they 
heard it not ; they were fast asleep behind the 
pile of ties. On came tho (fars, fairly bounding 
from the tnysk in their tmguided speed, and away 
shot the locomotive and train. Away they flew, 
on, around curves and over bridges, past rocky 
points and bold headlands ; on with the speed of 
the wind, but no faster thau came the cars be- 
hind him. 

"Let Oil the steam," cried Paddy, and with the 
throttle chock open, with wild, terrible screams 
of the whistle, the locontotive plunged through 
the gorge, the mighty rocks sending back the 
screams in a thousand ringing echoes. 

"Off with the ties," shouted Paddy, once more, 
as tho whistle shouted its warning to the station- 
men ahea^. to keep the track straight and free, 
for there was no time to pause — that terrible 
train was close on to them, and if they collided 
the canyon would have a fearful item added to 
its history. On went the train past the side- 
tracks, the almost frantic men throwing off tho 
ties, iu hopes that some of them would remain on 
the track, throw oft' the runaways, and thus save 
the forward tram. Down the gorge they plunged, 
the terror keeping close by them, leaping along — 
almost flying, said one, who told us the tale — 
while the locomotive strained every iron nerve to 
gain on its dreaded follower. Again the wild 
scream of the loconiotivo of "switches open," 
rung out on the air and was heard and understood 
in Echo City. The trouble was surmised, not 
known, but the switches were ready, and if the 
leading train had but the distance it could pass 
on and the following cars be switched oft' the 
track, and allowed to spend their force against 
the mountain sido. On shot the locomotive, like 
an arrow Irom the bow, the men throwing over 
the ties until tho train was well-nigh unloaded, 
when just as they wcie close to the curve by 
which "the train nrrives at the station, they saw 
the dreaded t'' in strike a tie, or something 
equallv of service, and with 1 desperate plunge, 
rush down the embankment, into the little vulley 
and creek below. •' Down brakes," screamed the " 
engine, and in a, moment more the cars entered 
Echo City, and Tcre quietly waiting on the side- 
track for further developments. The excited 
crowd, alarmed by the repeated whistii g. was 
soon informed of the cause of these screams, and 



A.ISrN EX 



251 



immediately went up the tracli to the scene of 
the disaster, to bring in the dead bodies. When 
they arrived they found the poor unfortunates 
sitting on the bank, smoliing their pijjes and un- 
harmed, having Just woke up. The first they 
knew of the trouble was when they were pitched 
away from the broken cars on the soft green- 
sward. The debris of car frames, wheels, and 
ties, gave them the first intimation they had re- 
ceived that something was the matter. 

^o. "Zl Anxex. tjJreat Salt liake— Be- 
hind the station at Promontory the hills rise into 
the dignity of mountains. To the top of the left 
hand point we strolled one bright, spring morn- 
ing. After an hour's toilsome walking through 
sage-brush and bunch-grass, then among sage- 
brush and rocks, until we had attained a height to 
which that persistent shrub could not attain, then 
among rocks, stunted cedars, tiny, delicate flow- 
ers and blooming mosses, until we stood on the 
summit of the peak, ou a nan-ow ridge of gran- 
ite, not over four feet wide, and there, almost at 
our feet (so steep was the mountain) lay the 
Great Salt Lake, spread out like a vast mirror 
before us, its placid bosom glittering in the 
morning sun, like a field of burnished silver. 
Mile after mile it stretched away, placid and mo- 
tionless, as though no life had ever caused a vi- 
bration of its currents, or given one restless im- 
pulse to its briny bosom. 

By the aid of the glass. Church or Antelope 
and other mountain islands could be distinctly 
seen, rearing their towering crests~far abavo the 
silver border at their base, their sloping sides en- 
robed in the greenest of all green coverings. 
Standing there as lone sentinels in the midst of 
this waste of waters, they i^ossess a wondrous 
beauty as a recompense for their utter isolation. 

Away beyond these islands rise the white- 
crested Wasatch Mountains, and we believe that 
we can jiick out the curve in their brown sides 
where nestles SaULake City, secure and beautiful 
in her mountain fastness. Far away to the 
southward the range blends with the sky and wa- 
ter, and the dim, indistinct lines of green, brown 
and silver blend in one, while above them the 
clear blue of the mighty dome seems to float and 
quiver for a space, and then sweeis down to join 
them, blending with them in one waving mass of 
vanishing color, which slowly recedes in the dim 
distance, until the eye can follow its course no 
farther. Turn now to the left, and there, sweep- 
ing up far behind Promontory Point, is the north- 
western arm of the lake — Monument Bay. That 
long, green line is Jlouument Point, throwing its 
long ridge far out into the bosom of the lake, as 
though It would span the waters with a carjaetof 
green. Away to the west Pilot Knob rears its 
crest of rocks from out the center of the great 
American desert. Do not look longer in that 
direction, all is desolation ; only a barren jjlain, 
and hard, gray rocks, and gUnting beds of alkali 
meet the vision. 

One more view to the north, one look at the 
lines of green hills and greener slopes which 
sweep down toward the sandy, sage-clad plateau 
ou which standsthe station ; another and last look 
at the i)lacidlake, and now, cooleit and refreshed 
by tho mountain breeze, we pluck a tiny moss 
bell from tho cleft in the rock, and then descend 
tho rugged mountain. We have seen Salt Lake 
from the most commanding point of view from 
tho north, and now we are Ijetter able to undei-- 
stand its shape and comprehend its dimensions, 
which are I'JC? miles in length by 4.5 in width. 
Tho principal islands are Antelope (15 miles 



long), Sheep's, Hot, Stansbury,Carrington and Egg^ 
They possess many charming summer retreats,, 
many natural bathing places. The water is so- 
buoyant that it is difficult for the bather to sink. 

The lake has no outlet for the waters contin- 
ually pouring into it from Bear, Jordan, Weber 
and other rivers. Evaporation absorbs the vast- 
volume, but it is a noticeable fact, and one wor- 
thy of consideration, that since the settlements 
have been made in the Territory, and the bosom 
of the earth has. been turned with tho plow, 
rendering the bai-ren waste blooming and pro- 
ductive, that the waters of the lake have risen 
steadily, and are now 12 feet higher than they 
were 20 years ago. Fences, which once enclosed 
fine meadow lands, are now just peering above 
the flood, marking its encroachment on the fer- 
tile bottom lands. The grand old mountains 
bear unmistakable evidence of tho water's pres- 
ence far up their rocky sides. At what time the 
floods reached that altitude, ,or whether those 
mountains were lifted from the present level of 
the lake by volcanic action, and carried these 
water lines with them, are questions no one can. 
answer. Savans may givo learned theories re- 
garding things they know nothing of ; they may 
demonstrate that Salt Lake is held in its present 
position by immutable laws, but they cannot de- 
stroy the ocular evidence that it has been rising 
slowly and steadily for 20 years. 

Xo. 23 Annex. California— Page 226. 

Sfu. 24: Annex. Hauliiig: Ores in 
Hides— See page 14(). 

No. 25 Annex. Bflsliam Yonne — Late- 
President and Prophet of the Mormon " Church 
of the Latter Day Saints," was boruin Whitting- 
ham, Vermont, on the first day of June, 1801. 
His father, John Young, was a 1\ evolutionary 
veteran, and served three campaigns under 
Washington. The family consisted of six 
daughters and five sons, of whom Brigham was 
the fourth. In early life he was connected with 
the Methodists, and at this time he followed the 
occuioation of carijenter, joiner and glazier. 

Young was first married in 1821, and in the 
spring of 1830 flrstsaw "The Book of Mormon," 
which was in the possession of one of his broth- 
ers, and made a great impression iipon him, and. 
of whichhe afterwards became so firm a believer 
and prominent, sujiporter. In April, 1832, he 
was baptized a member of the Mormon Church. 

Before becoming a Mormon, BrighaDi Young 
made himself thoroughly acquainted with their 
princiisles. and then chmg to his belief in the 
teachings of the "Book of Mormon" with great 
tenacity to the close of his eventful life. It was 
characteristic of the man that he was delibei'ate 
in arriving at an opinion, but when it was once 
formed he was steadfast to his convictions. 
While Josexih Smith was alive, liy whom he was. 
baptized, he was his friend and firm supporter, 
and from the time when the church of his choice 
was composeit of but n^j'ersecuted and incipient 
handful, fleeing fromplacc to place, until the day 
of his death, his was the master-sijirit that con^ 
trolled all their deliberations andruled in all their 
prominent coiincils. Brigham Young was the 
gi'eat organizer and masttr spirit that enabled 
them, by practical councils and directions, to 
cross the wide and unknown desert plains of" 
America in the year 1817, when possessed of the 
scantiest resources, andestalilish among thefar^ 
off mountains of LTtah Territory, a prosperous 
and thri^ang commuiiity. 

He was equal to the grand occasion of his life 
in rescuing the church from disorganization at. 



252 



^^ isT 2sr :e xi. 



Nauvoo, in 1844, where he >:teppod to the front and 
took the helm. The good of the Church was al- 
ways his first aTid foremost consideration; he 
laid plaup for its prosperitv, and in their eaccess- 
ful execution, he made vast sums of money for 
him'-elf. Like all new orginizations, especially 
those of an ecclesiastical character, there were 
many schisms and rivals to be put down, and in 
doing away with these, he was frequently forced i 
to take measures that drew down iipon his head 
the odium of the outside world. With the same 
opportunities for becoming a tyrant )ind despot, 
with a large, ignorant element among his subjects, 
few men with the same tenacity of will, and force 
of character, would have be^n less of an oppres- 
sor than the late Prophet priest and Kevelator of 
the Mormon Church. 

President Young has taken a prominent part in 
al' public improvements, in every plan calculated 
to facilitate communication between the Territory 
a,Qd the Eastern States; materially assisting in 
forming several express companies and stage 
line-*. He built several hundred miles of the 
Western Union Telegraph, graded 150 mi'es of the 
Union Pacific railroad, and has ever offt-red his as- 
sistance to every enterprise of the kind which had 
it material bearing on ihe interests of Utah. 

He died rcgretcd and respected by his fo lowers, 
and admired by the world at large, Wednesday, 
Aug. 29. 1877, l"n the seventy-sixthVear ot his age. 
His funeral took place on'Suuday, September 2, 
1877, amid a trreat pupular demonstration, the body 
being viewedbv over -.20,000 people. 

The following characteristic document, prepared 
hy the diseased about four years previous to his 
death, contains his instructions lor the conduct of 
the funeral obsequies. The p^iper was read by 
George Q, Cannon before the assembhd multitude 
on the day ot the funeral, and the iurtructions 
therein ron ained were carried out to the letter. 
"I, Brighani Youns. wish my funeral services to 
be conducted afcer the following manner: 

When I breathe my last I wish my Iriends to put 
my body in as clean and wholesome state as can 
conveniently be done, and preserve the same for 
one, two, three or four days, or as long as my body 
can be preserved in a good condition. I want my 
coffin made of plump I'i inch redwood boards, not 
scrimped in length, but two inches longer than I 
would measure, and from two to three inches 
Avider than is commonly made.for a person of my 
bi eadth and size, and deep enough to place me on a 
litiie comfortable cotton bed with a good suitable 
pillow for size and quality; my body dressed in 
my Temple clothing and laid nicely into my cof- 
fin, and the coffin to have the appearance that if I 
wanted to turn a little to the right or to the left I 
f liould have plenty of room to do so ; the lid can 
be made crowning. 

At my interment I wish all of my family present 
that can be conveniently, and the male members 
v.'ear no crape on their hats or th -ir coats ; the fe- 
ma'es to buy no black bonnets, nor black dresses, 
nor black veils; but if they have them, they are at 
liberty to wear them. The services may be per- 
mitted, as singing and a praj-er offered, and if any 
of my fi lends wish to say a few words, and really 
desire, do so; and when they have closed their 
service, t-ike my remains on a bier and repair to 
the little burying ground which I have reserved on 
my lot cast of the White House on the hill, and in 
the sotitheast corner ot this lot have a vault built 
of mason work, large enough to receive my coffin, 
{ind that maybe placed in a box. if they choose, 
made of the same material as the roffiu redwood. 
Then place flat rocks over the vault, sufficiently 
Jarge to cover it, that the earth may be placed over 



it— nice, fine, dry earth — to cover it until the walls 
of the little cemetery are reared, which will leave 
me in the southeast corner. This vault ought to 
be roofed over with some kind of a temporary 
roof. There let my earthly house or tabernacle 
rest in peace and have a good sleep until the morn- 
ing of the first resurrection; no crying, nor mourn- 
ing with any one that I have done my wor;; lUi h- 
fully and in good faith. 

I wish this to be read at the funeral, providing 
that if I should die an\ where in the mountains, I 
desire the above directions respecting my place 
'>f burial to be observed; but if] should live to go 
back with the Church, to Jackson County, I wish 
to be buried there. 

BRIGHAM YOUNG, 
Pres-ident of the Church of Jesus Christ ol Latter- 
day Saints. 

SuNiDAY, November 9th, 1873. 
Salt Lake City, Utah Ter. 

Briaham Young will ever stand prominently for- 
ward on the paces of the world's history, as one of 
the most remarkable men of the nineteenth cen- 
tury, respected by his followers and admired by 
the world at large," whose vices and virtues will go 
hand in hand adown the stream of time. 

STo. 86 AxNEX %ation:il Park— The ex- 
plorations of Br. Hayden. United States Geol- 
ogist, have demonstrated that this, our own conn- 
try, contains natural wonders, which, in extent, 
grandeur, and wondrous beauty, far surpass those 
of any other portion of the known world. The 
result has been, a bill has passed Congress set. 
ting apart a tract of country 5.5 by 65 miles in ex- 
tent as a gre-it National Park, or mammoth 
pleasure-ground, for the benefit and enjoyment 
ot the people. The entire area within the limits 
of the reservation is over 6,000 feet in altitude. 
Almost in the centre of this tract is located the 
Yellowstone Lake, a body of water 15 by 22 miles 
in extent, with an elevation of 7,427 feet. The 
ranges of mountains that hem the numerous val- 
leys on every side rise to the height of from 10,- 
000 to 12,000 feet, and are covered with perpetual 
snow. 

This country presents the most wonderful vol- 
canic appearance of any portion of this conti- 
nent. The great number of hot springs and the 
geysers represent the lust stages— the vett or es- 
cajie pipes— of these remarkable volcanic mani- 
festations of the internal forces. All these springs 
are ad jrned with decorations more beautiful than 
human mind ever conceived, and which have re- 
quired thousands of years f./r the cunning hand 
of nature to form. The most remarkable of these 
geysers throws a column of boiling hot water 15 
feet in diameter to a measured altitude of 150 
feet. This display is continued for hours to- 
gether, and so immense is the quantity of water 
discharged, that during the eruption, the volume 
of water iu the river is doubled. Another throws 
a column of hot water 200 feet in height, and over a 
foot in diaiiK'ter. Iti-* said the gsys'ers of Iceland, 
wi.ichhave been the objects of interest for scien- 
tists and travelers of the entire world for ycirs, 
sink into insignificance in comparison with 
the Hot ^priugs of the Yellowstone and Fire-hole 
Basins. 

The most iconderful story about this remark- 
able regi in is told Ijy Langford, one of the first 
discoverers. He says: "At a certain point on the 
Yellowstone River, the water runs down a steep 
and perfect grade over a surface of slate-rock, 
which has become so smooth from the velocity 
of t^ie rushing torr nt, that, at a distance of 
twenty miles, the /Vk'^^'ow becomes so great that 



j^ 35r isr E ZKL. 



25P> 



the water is boiling hot." We do not vouch lor 
the truth of this 8t,.."ry, and we are not certain that 
Langford will swear to it. 

The mountain rim of the Yellowstone Lake 
rises from 1,500 to 4,000 feet above its surface, and, 
except in two directions, is unbroken. To the 
west and southwest are breaks in the chain, 
through one of which appear the outlines of a 
conspicuous conical peak, 10,500 feet in height. 
In the mountain system which sunounds the lake 
are born the tributaries, almost the princii al 
sources, of three of the largest rivers on the con- 
tinent. Four of the mobt impormnt tributaries 
of the Missouri— namely, the Bg Horn, ttie Yel- 
lowstone, the Madison ai d the Gallatin, have 
their springs here. Flowing first north, then 
east, they strike the Missouri, which, in its turn, 
flows southeasterly to the Mississippi Valley, 
where its waters are blended with the stately 
stream that empties its tides at least 3,500 ra'les 
be:ow into the Gulf of Mexico. The Snake River, 
whose sources are actually interlaced with those 
of the Madison and the Yellowstone, turns west- 
ward, and traverses nearly a thousand miles of 
territory before it joins the Columbia on its way 
to the Pacific Ocean. Again, the Green River, 
rising but a few miles from the sources of the 
others, seeks ihe Colorado of the South, which, 
after irnumerable windings through deserts, and 
a roaring passage of hundreds of miles in the 
abysses of canjfoc 8 surpassing even those of the 
Yellowstone in grandeur, depth, and gloom, 
reaches the gulf of California. Penetrating to the 
lofty recesses where these springs rise, the ex- 
plorer stands, as it were, astride of the grandest 
water-shed in the world. A pebble dropped into 
one spring touches a water-nerve of the Pacific; a 
pebble cast into another touches a similar nerve 
of the Atlantic Ocean. It is a thought to cause 
the wings of the spirit of a man in such a place 
to expand like an eagle's. (See large illustrations, 
Nos. 35 and 36.) 

BTo. 27 Annex. Ocean Steamships.— 
The steamers of the Occidental and Oriental Line, 
between San Francisco and Yokohama, leave San 
Francisco about the 15th of each month. The 
passage rates are: 





u 


6 


a 


2 








CO 






oj a 


^ a 


a 












s§ 


Payable in U. S. 


r^ 




^ - 


Gold Coin. 




0^ 
3 




to a 






w 


o 


R-Ji 


San Fkancisco tm 








Mile;. 


Yokohama, Japan, 


$250 001$ 85 Of 


$53 00 


4,764 


Hiogo, 


270 00 


100 00 




5,104 


Nagasaki, •' 


290 00 


100 00 


62 00 


5 444 


Shanghae, China, 


300 00 


100 00 


65 00 


5.964 


Hongkong, " 


300 00 


100 00 


53 00 


6,384 


Calcutta, India, 


450 00 






9,385 



Children v.nAev \i years of age, one-half rates; 
under five years, one-quarter rates: under one year, 
free. 

Family Servants, (European) eating and sleep- 
ing in European steerage, one-half cabin rates; 
eating in cabin and sleeping in European steer- 
age, three-quarters cabin rates; eatingand sleep- 
ing in cabin, full cabin rates. 

250 lbs. baggage allowed each adult, first-class 
or cabin passeneer; 150 lbs. each, European steer- 
age; 100 lbs. each, Chinese steerage: proportion- 
ate to chlldrep. 



^f" Koiincl Trip Tit kets, good for twelve^ 
mouths, will be sold at a reduction of 12;i prr 
cent, from regularra'es. 

An i.llowance of 20 per cent, on return pa-sage 
will be made to passeueers who paid full lare to 
Japan or China, ortvV*? versa, re-embarking within 
six months from date of landing, and an allowance 
of 10 per cent, to those who return within twelve 
months. 

Fa/nilies ■whose fare amounts to four full 
PASSAGES will be allowed T per cent, reduction. 

Exclusive use of stateroo7ns can be secured by 
the payment of half-rate for extra births. 

The Pacific Mail steamships leave San Fran- 
cisco about the Ist of every month, for Yokohama 
and Honkorg, and for Sidney and Aukland via 
Honolulu, at about the same time — Ist of eacli 
month— and for New York, via Panama, about, the 
1st and 15th of each month. For Victoria, B. C. 
Port Townsend, Seattle and Tacoma, the 10th, 
20th and 30th of each month. 

The Oregon Steamship Co. send steamers to 
Portland from San Francisco every five days. 

Oiher steamers for up and down the coast, leave 
at changeible intervals; about weekly, however. 

Xo. 38 Annex. Col. Hudniit's Survey. 
—On the west side of Promontory Point, the line 
known as Colonel Hudnufs survey of the Idaho 
and Oregon branch otthe U. P. R. R., passes north 
to Pilot Springs; thence down Clear Creek or Raft 
River to Snake River, and along the southern 
bank ofthis stream to Old's Ferry; thence across 
the country to Umatilla, on the Columbia River. 
For the entire distance between Promontory and 
Raft River, the country is uninviting, though not 
barren. From thence the route passes through a 
country abounding in fertile valleys and bold 
mountains— the latter well-wooded. There is 
I)lenty of wood and other materials for building 
the proposed road along the whole length of the 
line. To the mouth of Raft River from Promon- 
tory is about 100 miles. The scenery along the 
line is varied, from smiling, fertile viilleys to lofty, 
snow-clad mountains. We will speak only of the 
general characteristics of the route and of one or 
two points of remarkable interest. The main 
leature of the Snake or Shoshone River is its 
majestic cataracts. The stream, sometimes called. 
Lewis River, is the f^outh Fork of the Columbia, 
and was discovered by Lewis and Clark, who ven- 
tured westward ot the Rocky Mountains in 1804. 
It rises in the Rocky Mountains, near Fremont's 
Peak, in the Wind River Range, which divides 
Idaho andWyomingTerritories. The headwaters 
of the stream are Gros Ventre, John Craig's and 
Salt Creeks on the south, with the outlets of 
Lyon's and Barret's lakes on the north. The gen- 
eral course of the river from its source to Big 
Bend is northwest. At this point Henry's Fork, 
a large stream flowing from the the north, empties 
its waters into the main river. Thence ttie course 
is southwesterly until the first falls are reached — 
about 400 miles from the river's s'urce. These 
are called the American Falls and are very fine, 
but do not present so sublime an appearance as 
will be seen about 100 miles lurther down the 
river, where the waters leave the elevated plains of 
Idaho by a series of cascades, known as the Sho- 
shone Falls, from 30 to 60 leet high, closing the 
scene in one grand leap of 210 feet perpendicular. 
The wld h of the river at the point of taking the 
last leap is about 700 feet. The form of the f^l s is 
circular— somewhat like those of the Niagara. Be- 
fore the river reaches the cascades it runs between 
lofty walls, which close in around it until but a 
narrow gorge is left for the passage of the water 



254 



^^ iNT i^T :b 2C- 



1,0')0 feet below the tope of the WufFs. The moBt 
complete view of the falls is obtained from Look- 
out Point, a narrow spit of rocks which projects 
from the main blufl's a short distance down the 
stream from the falls. From this point Eagle 
Rock rises before us in the midst ol the rapids, and 
almost overhanging the falls, fully 200 feet high ; 
its pillar-like top surmounted by an eas^le's uest, 
where, year after year, the monarch of the air has 
reared its joung. Near ihe center of the river are 
aeveral islands covered with cedur, the largest one 
being called Ballard's Island. Two rocky points, 
one on either side of the falls, are called the Two 
Sentinels. Excepting in point of the volume of 
•water, the falls will compare favorably with Ni- 
agara. 

From this point the river runs nearly west until 
it reaches War 1; agle Mountains, about 80 i miles 
from its source, when it turns due north, follow- 
ing that course for 150 miles, then bending again 
to the west it unites with Clark's River, forming 
the Columbia. After leaviu" the last falls the 
country is less broken, and the work of building 
the road would be comparatively light for most of 
jhe way. 
Mo. 29 Annex. Western Stock Raising- 




DuRBiN, Obr& Co.— Cattle branded \B; also 
eome of them \B, and horses the same. 

Post-office, Cheyenne, W. T. Kange, Bear Creek. 




Ceeighton & Co.— Horses branded quarter cir- 
cle open block, on left shoulder. Also, partcat- 
tle branded half-circle on shoulder. 

Poptnffice Pine Bluffs, W. T. Range, Horse and 
Pumpkin creeks. 

Stock raising is an important industry. We have 
often expressed our bel ief that, ultimately, it would 
be found there was not one f lot of valueless land on 
the line of the Pacific railroad. The Bitter Creek 
country, previohs to 1868, for 80 miles was univer- 
eally admitted by all who knew anything about that 
section of country, to be utterly valueless. Coal, 
in immense quantities, was discovered all along 
the creek— great veins— and it is now the most 



valuable section of the Union Pacific railroad. 
Portions of Ihe Humboldt and Nevada Desert were 
also set down as valueless; now, see what irriga- 
tion has done for a portion of it, where the people 
have hail the enterprise to adopt a system of irri- 
eation, as at Humboldt Station. We contend that 
all the lands on the line of this road are valuable, 
some as mineral, some as agricultural, but the 
greater portion is the finest grazing land in the 
world. This lact, of late years, is becoming thor- 
oughly understood, as in 1868 there would not ex- 
ceed twenty thousand he>id of cattle on the whole 
line of the Pacific railroad, across the continent; 
now there are over 700.000 head of cattle, 30,000 
headof horses, and full 450,000 head of sheep. 

The range is enormous, taking in broad plains, 
grass-covered mountains, and thousands cf as 
beautiful little foot-hills and mountain valle.\s as 
there are in the world. This section commences 
about 250 miles west of the Missouri River, and 
extends to the eastern base of the Sierra Nevada 
Mountains, all of which, with only a few miles in- 
tervening, is the stock-raiser's paradise. The ab- 
sence of water is the only drawback in this inter- 
vening section, a"d in time wells will be sunk atd 
that obstacle overcome. The valley blufls, low 
hills and mnuntain sides of this whole section are 
cov( red with a luxuriant growth of gramma or 
"bunch" grass, one of the most nutritious grasses 
grown, together with white sage and grense-wood, 
upon wliich all kinds of stock thrive all the sea- 
sou, without care, excepting what is necessary to 
prevent them from straying beyond reach. Old 
work -oxen that had traveled 2,500 miles ahead of 
the freight wagon during the season, have been 
lurued out to winter by their owners, and by the 
following July they were "rolling fat "—fit for 
beef. V\ e know this to be a fact from actual ex- 
perience. 

This country is the great pasture land of the 
c 'Utinent. There is room for millions of cattle in 
this unsettled country, and then have grazing land 
enough to spare to feed half the stock in the 
Union. 

In the foot-hills and mountainous portion of 
this great grazing rangi-, and along the line of the 
great water courses, theie is no trouble from lack 
of water, for the mountain valleys are each sup- 
plied with creeks and rivers. Springs abound in 
various sections, so that no very large tract of 
land is devoid of natural watering places. The 
grass grows from nine to twelve inches high, smd 
is peculiarly nutritious. It is always green 
near the roots, summer and winter. During the 
summer the dry atmosphere cures the standing 
grass as effectually as though cut and prepared for 
hay. The nutritive qualities of the grass remain 
uninjured, and stock thrive equally well on the 
dry feed. In the winter what snow falls is very 
dry, uulike that which falls in more humid cli- 
mates. It may cover the grass to the depth of a 
few inches, but the cattle readily remove it, reach- 
ing the grass without trouble. 

Again, the snow does not stick to the sides of 
the cattle and melt there, chilling them through, 
but its dryness causes it to roll from their backs, 
leaving their hair dry. The cost of keeping stock 
in this country is just what it will cost to employ 
herders— no more. The contrast between raising 
stock here and in the East must be evident. 
Again, the stocking of this country with sheep, is 
adding an untold wealth to the country. The 
mountain streams afl'ord ample water power for 
manulactories, and wool enough could be grown 
here with which to clothe all the people of the 
I'nion, when manufactured into cloth. With the 
railroad to transport the cattle and sheep to the 



^A. 3^ IsT IE X:. 



255 



Eastern and Western markets, immense fortunes 

are now bt'ing made, and the business is compara- 
tively new— iii its infancy. 
No drouths which have been experienced in 

this frreat range have ever seriously aflected the 

pasturage, owin s, to tne peculiar qualities of the 

grasses indigenous to the country. So with 

storms: it has seldom happened that any storms 

are experienced which cause loss, and none ever 

need to, and none ever do, when the stock is prop- 
erly attended to and herded. 
On these ranges it is common for stock of many 

owners to range toge:her, and a system of brands 

has been adopted, and recorded with the county 

clerk in the section of country where the herds 

belong. The recording of the brands is a protec- 
tion against theft and loss by straying, as each 

cattle man knows the brands in use in his range, 

and each endeavors to protect the other's interest. 
The illustrations that we present, show two of 

the brands in use, and the method adopted by all 

cattle men to make known their brand, and the 

particular range, or k07tie range of the cattle. 

[These are actual names, brands, range and ad- 
dresses.] 

The Annual " Round-Up."— One of the 

most important and interesting features of the 

stock-raising business is the cattle "round-up." 

In the " free and easy " manner of raising cattle 
on the broad, western plain, where the owner may 
not see one-half of his herd for six months at a 
time, it may be imagined that the restless Texaus 
scatter almost from Dan to Beersheba, and that 
extra cfi'ort is necessary when they are finally 
collected by the regular spring "round up." 
Companies of herders are organized to scour cer- 
tain sections of country, and bringevery animal to 
a grand focal point, no matter who that animal 
may belong to or what its condition may be. The 
old-fashioned "husking bee," " 'possum hunt " or 
"training day" is vastly outdone by this wild 
revelry of theherders. Mouiited upon their fleet- 
est ponies, the cow-boys scatter out in all direc- 
tions, gather in " everything that wears horns," 
and at night may have tne property of half-a-dozen 
owners jn one "immense, excited herd. Then, 
while a cordon of herders hold the animals to- 
gether, representatives of the different " brands " 
ride into the herd, single out their animals, one 
by one, and drive them off to be branded or mar- 
keted. Moving along, day after day, the scene is 
repeated, until the whole plains country has been 
visited, and every breeder has had an opportunity 
to take an inventory of his stock. Of course the 
participants "camp out " wagons, following the 
herd, with blankets and provisions, the " round- 
up" season, being one of mirth and frolic, as v/ell 
as of work, from beginning to end. 

Wo. 30 Annex. The Great Cave— of , ^ 

Eastern Nevada, lies about forty-five miles to the stamp mill at Newark, 22 miles north of where 
southwest of Eureka. It is situated in one of the Treasure City now 8t<ind8, to work veins in the 
low foot-hills of the Shell Creek Range, which Diamond Range. Acrossthe valley, opposite New- 
cxtcnds for about two miles into a branch of ark. White Pine Mountain rises 10,285 feet. Here 



into this chamber are several smaller ones, and 
near by, a clear, cold spring of excelKnt water 
gushes forth from the rock. Further on are more 
chambers, the walls of which are covered with 
stalactites of varied styles of beauty. Stalagmites 
are found on the floors in great numbers. It is 
not known how far this cave extends, but it has 
been explored over 4,000 feet, when a deep chasm 
prevented further exploration. 

Indian Legend— The Indians in this vicinity 
have a curious fear of this place, and cannot be 
temi ted to ventui-e any distance within i s 
haunted recesses. They have a legend that " heap" 
Indians went in once for a long way and none ever 
returned. But on'> who ventured in many moons 
ago, was lucky enough to escape, with the loss 
ot those who accompanied him, and he is now 
styled "Cave Indian." According to the legend, 
he ventured in with some of his tribe and traveled 
until he came to a beautiful stream of water, 
where dwelt a great many Indians, who had small 
ponies and beautiful squaws. Though uiged to 
stay with his people, "Cave" preferred to return 
to sunlight. Watching his chances, when all 
were asleep, he stole away, and, after great suffer- 
ing, succeeded in reaching the mouth of the cave, 
but his people still live in the bowels of the eurth. 

The Indians thoroughly believe the story, and 
will not venture within the darkness. Another 
story is curreut among the people who live near 
by, which is, that the Slormons were once posses- 
sors of this cave, and at the time when they had 
the rupture with the United States Government, 
used it as a hiding place lor the plate and treas- 
ures of the Church and the valuables of the Mor- 
mon elders. The existence of the cave was not 
known to the whites, unless the Mormons knew 
of it, until 1866. 

A Little History — In the latter part of the 
summer of 1858, a party of prospectors from Mari- 
posa, in California, crossed the Sierra Nevada 
Mountains via Yo-Semite to Mono Lake, then in 
Utah, but now in that part of the country set off' to 
form Nevada. For three years the party worked 
placer mines and other gold along the various 
canyons and gulches extending eastward from the 
Sierras, which led others to continue prospecting 
further north, and who discovered Conistock 
Ledge. Other prospectors followed, and the dis- 
covery of rich veins in Lander, Esmeralda, Nye 
and Humboldt counties, and in the aajOining 
Territory of Idaho, was the result. The great 
"unexplored desert," on the map, was avoided 
until 1865 and 1866, when parties began to branch 
out and discover the rich argentiferous quartz 
and fine timber land, extending along a series of 
parallel valleys, from the Humboldt to the Colo- 
rado River. Several New York companies became 
interested in these discoveries, and erected a 20- 



Steptoe Valley. The ridge is low, not over 60 or 
65 feet high, and presents no indica'ions which 
would lead one to suspect that it guarded the en- 
trance to an immense cavern. The entrance 
to the cave would hardly be noticed by 
travelers, it being very low and partly obscured. 
A rock archway, small and dark, admits the ex- 
plorer, who miist pass along a low passage for 
about 20 feet, when it gradually widens out, with 
a corresponding elevation of roof. Many of the 
chambers discovered are of great size; one, called 
the " dancing hall," being about seventv by ninety 
feet. The roof is about forty feet from the floor, 
which is covered with fine gray sand. Opening 



the " Monte Christo " mill was erected, at which 
a Shoshone Indian came one day with a specimen 
of better "nappias" than had yet been discov- 
ered, and, by his guidance, the rich mines dis- 
covered at Treasure Hill and the " Hidden Treas- 
ure " mine were located and recorded on the 14th 
of September, 1867. But, aside from the produc- 
tion of mineral, along these mountain ranges, 
another source of wealth exists in the valleys ex- 
tending through Nevada and Utah. We refer to 
that branch of business which has been gradually 
increasing— one which will bring a large revenue 
to the settlers along these valleys in stock-rais- 
ing. Bunch grass grows in abundance, and cattle 



2C6 



.A. IsT ZsT IE X: 



are easily wintered and fattened, finding a ready- 
market in tli 3 mining districts and westward to 
Sacramento and San Francisco. 
::^'o. 3 I Anxkx. Xevacla falls.— 209. 
Sfo. :i^ Annex. Pioneer 3Iail Kjiter- 
prises.— (See page 218. 

IVo. SH Annex. The Doiiner Party.— 
(Illustration page 71). Around this beautiful 
sheetof water— nestled bo clogely in the embrace 
of these mighty mountains, smiling and joyous 
.in its matchless beauty, as though no dark sorrow 
had ever occurred on its shores, or its clear waters 
reflected back the wan and haggard face of starva- 
tion— is clustered the saddest of memories— a 
memory perpetuated by the name of the lake. 

In the fall of '46, a party of emigrants, mostly 
from Illinois, arrived at Truckee River, worn and 
wasted from their long and arduous journey. 
Among that party was a Mr. Donner, who, with 
his family, were seeking the rich bottom lands of 
the California rivers, the fame of which had 
reached them in their Eastern home. At that 
time a few hardy pioneers had settled near Sut- 
ter's Fort, brought there by the returning trap 
pers, who, with .wondrous tales of the fertility of 
the soil and the genial climate of California, had 
induced some of their friends to return with them 
and settle In this beautiful land. The Donner 
party, as it is generally called, was one of those 
parties, and under the guidance of a trapper, was 
journeying to this then almost unknown laud. 
Arriving; at the Truckee, the guide, who knew the 
danger threatening them, hurried thtm forward, 
that they might cross the dreaded Sierras ere the 
snows of winter should encompass them. Part of 
the train hurried forward, but Mr. Donner, who 
had a large lot of cattle, would not hurry. Despite 
all warnings, he loitered alon^ until, at last, he 
reached the foot of Donner Lake, and encamped 
there for the night. The weather was growing 
cold, and the black and threatening sky betokened 
the coming storm. At Donner Lake, the road 
turned to the left in those days, following up 
Coldstream, and crossing the Summit, near Sum- 
mit Meadows, a very difficult and dangerous route 
in fair weather. The party who encamped at the 
lake that night numbered 16 souls, amoEg whom 
were Mrs. Donner and her four children. During 
the night, the threatened storm burst over them 
in all its fury. The old pines swayed and bent be- 
fore the blast which swept over the lake, bearing 
destruction and death on its snow-laden wings. 
The snow fell heavily and fast, as it can fall in 
those mcuntains. Most of the frightened cattle, 
despite the herder's vigilance, " went off with the 
storm." 

In the morning the terror-stricken emigrants be- 
1 eld one vast expanse of snow, and the large white 
fl ikes falling thick and fast. Still there was hope. 
Some of the cattle and their horses remained. 
They could leave wagons, and with the horses 
they might possibly cross the mountains. But 
here aroseanother difficulty, Mr. Donner was un- 
well, and could not go — or preferred to wait until 
the storm subsided; and Mrs. Donner, like a true 
woman, refused to leave her husband. 

The balance of the party, with the exception of 
one, a German, who decided to stay with the fam- 
ily, placed the children on the horses, and bade 
Mr. and Tilrs. Donner a hist good-by ; and after a 
long and iierildus battle witli the storm, they suc- 
ceeded in crossing the mountains and reaching the 
valleys, where the danger was at an end. ■ he 
storm continued, almost without intermission, for 
several weeks, and those who liad crossed the 
Summit knew that an attempt to roach tlie im- 
prisoned party would be futile— worse than follyj 
until the spring sun should melt away the icy 



barrier. 

I Of the long and dreary winter passed by these 
[three i^ersons, who shall tell? The tqjl stumps 
standing near where stood the cabin, attest the 
depth of snow. Some of them are twenty feet in 
height. 

Early in the spring a xjarty of larave men, led by 
Claude Cheney, started from the valley to bring 
out the iirisoners, expecting to find them alive 
and well, lor it was supposed that they had pro- 
visions enougii to last them through the winter, 
but it seems they were mistaken. 

After a desperate effort, whicli required weeks 
of toil and exposure, tha party succeeded in 
scaling the mcuntains, and came to the camp of 
the Donners. What a siglit met the first glance ! 
In a rudely constructed cabin, before the fire, sat 
tho Dutclimau, liokMug in a vice-like grasp a 
roasted arna and hand, which he was greedily eat- 
ing. With a wild and frightened look ho sprang to 
his feet and confronted tlie new comers, holding 
on to the arm as tliough he feared they wonld de- 
prive him of his repast. The remains of the arm 
were taken from him by main force, and the ma- 
niac secured. The remains of Mr. Donner were 
found, and, with those of his faithful wife, given 
such burial as the circumstances would permit, 
a d i aking the survivor with them, they returned 
to the valley. 

Tho German recovered, and still lives. His 
story is, that soon after the party left, Mr. Don- 
ner died, and was buried in the snow. The last of 
the cattle escaped, leaving but little food ; and 
when that was exhausted, Mrs. Donner died. 
Many d irk suspicions of foul play on the part of 
tho onljr survivor have been circulated, but 
whethertliey arecorrectwillnever be known, un- 
til tlie final imraveling of time's dark mysteries. 
Xo. H-i Annex. '-Roll I- m Tin ouch." 
— Oct. 17tli, 1S72, as an excursion train, loaded 
with passengers, most of whom were women a»d 
children, rounded the curve close below the tun- 
nel, and with No. (> train tliundering along clcse 
behind, the timbering in tlio tunnel was discov- 
ered by the fireman to be on fire. The engineer, 
JohnnyBaitholomew,compreliended the position 
at a glance, made one of the most brilliantdaslies, 
undertime circumstances, on record. The train 
past through the tunnel safely, when to have 
sto]iped short would have been sure death, G. 
H, Jennings, Esq,, of Brooklyn, N. Y., has put 
the following words in the mouth of the brave 
engineer: 
I ain't very much ou the lancy, 

And all that sort of stuff, 
For an engineer on a railroad 
. Is apt to be more "on the rough;" 
He don't "go much" on "his handsome," 

I freely "acknowledge the corn," 
But he has got to "git up" on his "wideawake," 

That's "just as sure's you're born." 

Mow, I'll tell you a little story, 

'Bout "a run" we had for our necks, 
When we thought "old Gabe" had called us. 

To "ante up our checks." 
We came 'round the curve by the tunnel. 

Just beyond the American Flat, 
A'hen my fireman sings out, "Johnny I 

Lookahead! My God, what's that? " 

You bet, I warn't long in sightin' — 

There was plenty lor me to sec, 
With a train full of kids an' wlmmen. 

And their lives all hargin' on me— 
For the tunnel was roarin' and blazin', 
, All ragin' with lire an' smoke, 
And "Number Six" close behind us — 

" Quick, sonny ! shove in the coke." 



.A. JNTIsTEX:. 



257 



"Whistle 'down brakes,' " I first thonght: 

Then, think's I, "old boy, 't won't do;"' 
And with hand on throttle an' lever, 

I knew 1 77iust roll ''em through! 
Through the grim mouth of the tunnel — 

Through smoke an' flame, as well— 
Riwhtinto the "gateway of death," boys; 

Right smack through the "jaws of hell 1" 

The staunch "old gal" felt the pressure 

Of steam through her iron joints; 
She acted just like she was human — 

Just like she "knew all the points; " 
She glided along the tramway, 

With speed of a lightning flash, 
With a howl assuring us safety, 

Regardless of wreck or crash. 

I 'spose I might have "jumped the train. 

In hope to save sinew and bone, 
And left them wimmen and children 

To take that ride alone ; 
But I tho't of a day of reck'nin'; 

And whatever "Old John" done here. 
No Lord ain't going to say to him then, 

"You went back as an engineer! " 

Ho. 35 Annex. The Valley of the Yel- 
lowstone— No. 7, of the large illustrations, is 
engraved from a photograph taken by Prof. Hay- 
den, the great explorer of the West. It i)resentg 
a view of one of the finest and most picturesque 
portions of the valley. It is looking southward, 
above the first or lower canyon, and directly on 
the Snowy Range, whose white-capped summits 
may be seen on the left of the picture, extending 
up the river. Below is the first canyon, between 
the high, narrow, limestone walls of which, the 
Yellowstone flows, about three miles, and then 
makes its exit from the mountain region proper. 
The valley is about 20 miles in length, and from 
four to five miles in width, and is one of the most 
delightful portions of Montana. (See Annex No. 
26 and 36.) 

'So. 36 Annex The Falls of the Yel- 
loivstone — as illustrated in No 8 of our series of 
large views is one of the most perfect pictures ever 
made. It is from a photograph taken by Prof. Hay- 
den, andengravedbyBross, of New York. Itrt-pre- 
sents the Lower Falls of the Yellowstone, where 
the waters make a leap into the canyon, a dis- 
tance of 350 feet. Prof. Haydeu, in his report, 
says: "After the waters of the Yellowstone roll 
over the upper falls, (140 feet,) they flow with great 
rapidity over an apparently flat, rocky bottom, 
which spreads out to nearly double its width above 
the falls, and continues thus until near the Lower 
Fall, when the chHuuel again contracts, and the 
waters seem, as it were, to gather themselves 
into one compact mass, and plunge over the preci- 
pice in detached drops of foam, as white as snow, 
some of the huge globules of water shooting down 
through the sunlight, like the white fire contents 
of an exploded rocket. It is a spectacle infinitely 
more beautiful than the grandest picture ever 
presented of the famous Falls of Niagara. In the 
immediate vicinity of the Lower Falls, and in the 
grand canyon, the scene is indescribably beauti- 
ful. A heavy mist arises from the water at the 
foot of tlie falls, so derse that one cannot ap- 
proach within from two to three hundred feet of 
them, and even then the clothes will be drenched 
in a few moments. Upon the glowing, yellow, 
nearly vertical walls of the west side, the mist 
mostly falls, and for 300 feet from the bottom, 
the wall is covered with a thick matting of 



1 

'mosses, sedges, grasses, and other vegetation of 
the most vivid green, which havi sent their 
small roots into the softened rocks and are nour- 
ished by the ever-ascending spray. (See Annex 
No. 26 and 35.) 

:Xo. 37 Annex. Falls of the IVillamette 
Rivei'. (See page 215.) 

IVo. 3S Annex. Cape Horn. (See page 232.) 

Sfo. 39 Annex. \% ood Haulins in Ne- 
vada. (See page 232.) 

Xo. 40 Annex. Mirror f>ake Yo-Se- 
miteVaMey. (See page 209.) 

Xo. 41 Annex. The Pony Express. (See 
page 151.) 

Xo. 4i4 Annex. Nierra Xevada Moun- 
tains, (See page 138.) 

Xo. 43 Annex. Mount Shasta. (See 
pr.ge 214.) 

IVo. 44 Annex. IVnodward hardens— 
These Gardens were laid out in 1S60 by R. B. 
Woodward, Esq., a gentleman of enterprise and 
refined taste, to surround, adorn and beautify his 
private residence, situated near the center of the 
grounds. To this end the continents of both 
America and Europe were searched to procure 
every variety of ornamental trees, exotics, indi- 
genous plants, or ariicles of rare virtue and 
ralue. For us to attempt to describe these beaa- 
fifu) grounds, and d) justice to the subject, were 
we able would take a larger book than the Tour- 
ist. Ihey must be seen to be appreciated. You 
will find in the "Art Gallery " rare paintings and 
statuary : m the "Zoological d-partment a great 
variety of difi-erent kinds of wild animals, inclnding 
the Caliloi\iia lion, and a mammoth grizzly bear? 
weighing 1.600 pounds; al.^o a great variety of 
Calif jrnia buds. •' 

In these grounds are towering evergreen trees 
and crystal lakes, oriental arbors and beautiful 
statuary, delishtful nooki and shady retreats, 
with creeping vines, fragrant flowers, sparkling 
lountam-, sweet music, and, above all, the glo- 
rious California sky. Possessed of all these lux- 
uriant surroundings, and with ample income, 
could any person be surprised that Mr Wood- 
ward should persistently decline to open them to 
the curious public? But the time came at last 
It was when the solaiers and sailors of this coun- 
try lay bleeding in the hospitals, on the shipa, in 
the camps, and on the battle-fields, with widows, 
orphans, suflTeiing, and death on every side The 
sanitary fund was low. Money must be had! 
then It was that his noble heart leaped to the res- 
rue. The grounds were then thrown open to the 
public in aid of the Sanitary Fund. The re- 
ceipts were princely; and no one can say how 
many lives were saved, or the sufferings of the 
last moments of life alleviated, by the aid of the 
generous proprietor of the Woodward Gardens? 
1 hese gardens were opened permanently to the 
public in May, 1866. They occupy five acres of 
ground, lour of which are bounded by Market, 
.vhssion, 13th and 14th streets, with one acre to 
the south of 14th street, connected by tunnel un- 
I'-v that street from the main ga-den. 
Xo. 4.'> Annex.— The Geysers— Page 184, 
X«. 4« Annex— The large vie^v of San 
Fraiioisco— See page 214. 

Xo. 47 A.NNEX. [From page 234.] The 
.4nelfnt Kuins of Arizona are very exten- 
sive, and are scattered over a large portion of 
the Territory. These ruins consist, in part, of 
towns, cities, and scattered hamlets; castles, 
temples and great buildings ; fortifications, huge 
walled enclosures and causeways, together with 
great canals, cisterns and reservoirs of immense 



258 



^NNKX. 



feet in width ; one building is 350 feet long by 
150 wide ; an immense castle is situated on the 
apex of a mountain, 3,000 feet above the valley. 
Potteryware and stone implements in great 
variety are scattered about the ruins, while 
rude hieroglyphics andpictures of men, animals, 
birds, turtles and reptiles are isaiuted on or cut 
deep into the rocks, at differenl places in the 
country. Burial, or cremation urns are olten 
found, some containing ashes and jjartly burned 
human bones. 

Casa Grande, (signifying ".Big Houtie,") one of 
these ruins, is situated a few miles south of the 
Gila river, on a gi"eatplain, about 14 miles north 
of the station of Casa Grande. This building is 
one of the best preserved, but unde, the medium 
Eize ; is 63 leet long by 4.5 feet wide ; the walls 
are of concrete, five feet thick, and are now 
standing about 40 feet in height, or a little over 
four stories. 

These ruins are pre-historic ; the builders have 
long since passed away, leaving no records of 
■who they were ; when they lived ; whence they 
came, or whither they went. 

The first account in history of theseruins date 
back over 300 years— to the Sixteenth Ceuturv — 
at which time the Jesuit Fathers explored and 
described the country ; [its ruins and people ; 
their reports differ in no essential points from 
those of a later period, nor could the Fathers 
procure any information from the Indians then 
inhabiting the country, that would aid them to 
establish the identity of the people who bad 
built the cities, towns and other improvements, 
and who undoubtedly possessed nsuch civiliza- 
tion, and lived by cultivating the soil. 

Xo. -tH Annex. Painted Itockii!. — Mr. 
Hodge, in his work, "Arizo7ia as it is," says: 
"This mass of rock rises from the surface of the 
plain to n, height of perhaps 50 feet, the upper- 
most lieing a broken ledge from which masses 
have fallen off, and the whole coveting less than 
an acre of ground. On the standing ledge and, 
on the brokenmasses at its base, are carved deep 
in the surface rude representations of men, 
animals, birds and reptiles, and of numerous 
objects, real or imaginary, some of which,repre- 
sent checker boards, some camels and drome- 
daries, insects, snakes, turtles, etc., etc. ; and 
on the other broken rocks at the base of the 
ledge, are found on all sides like sculptured fig- 
ures, some of which are dee^jly imbedded in the 
eand. These pictured rocks present much of 
interest to the thinking mind, and when exam- 
ined by some one versed in hieroglyx)liica,j read- 
ing, may be found to give some clue to the time 
of making and thei^eople who made them." 

The earliest account we have of these "Painted 
Rocks," as well as the "Ancient Ruins " of 
Arizona, comes from the exisloration of the 
Jesuit Fathers, who traversed the country in 
tqe Sixteenth Century. In comparing their re- 
ports with the appearance of the "Rocks" and 
"Ruins" of the preseht time, very little, if any, 
change is noticeable. The Indians, in answer 
to all questions of the Fathers, as to who carved 
the rocks, or built the towers and cities then in 
ruins, received the same answer as the Pima 
Indians give at the present time, which was, 
"Moc-te-zu-ma." 

Xo. 49. Annex. Viewing Proeress— 
During the construction of the Pacific Railroad — 
and, in fact, for many years afterwards— the 
locomotive, cars, and all persons connected with 
the road , were viewed with gi-eat curiosity by 



the Indians in the country through which it waa 
built. The engines — "fire wagons" — and the 
long train of cars — "heaii wagon no hoss" — re- 
ceived the Indians' special attention ; and they 
would gather around on the hills at first, and 
then cautiously approach and watch every move- 
ment — lying around for days and months at a 
time. From the commencement of the building 
of the road through the Indian country until its 
completion, the Indians had awholesome fear of 
the "fire wagons." They would often attack 
small iiarties of graders, or stragglers from the 
camps ; but only in two or three instances did 
they attempt to distui'b the jiassing trains, and 
in those cases they were punished so severely, 
that ever afterward they declared "fire-wagon 
bad medicine. 

The illustration on page 233 represents a small 
party of Apache Mohaves, headed by their famous 
war chief, Mi-ra-ha, in 1868, who, "having heard 
about the terrible "fire-wagons," left their country 
in northernArizona, and made a pilgruuagetothe 
northward, many hundred miles to view thegreat 
curiosity. We learned from a half-breed, on a re- 
cent visit to Arizona, that Mi-ra-ha, after his re- 
turn to Arizona, resolved to gather his forces and 
capture one of these Pacific railroad 'fire-wagons.' 
But as Gen. Crook made it very lively for him at 
home for many years after his return , and as Capt. 
Porter sent him to his "happy hunting ground," 
in 1876, he has probably got all he can attend to. 

Xo. 50. Annex. Palace Hotel at Sian 
Franeisco. — This monster hotel of the world, 
is situated in the city of San Francisco occupy- 
ing one entire block of ground, 344 by 265 feet, 
boumiled by New Montgomery, Market, Annie 
and Jessie sti'eets. It is seven stories high (115 
feet), the foundation walls are twelve feet thick, 
while the exterior and interior walls range from 
IJ.j feet to 4^2 feet in thickness. 

The foundation walls at tfieir base, are built 
with in.verted arches. All exterior, interior and 
partition walls, at every five feet, commencing 
, from the bottom of the foundation, are banded 
together with bars of iron, forming, as it were, a 
perfect iron basket-work filled in with brick. The 
quantity of iron so used, increases in every story 
towards the roof, and in the upper story the iron 
bands are only two feet apart. 

The roof is of tin, the partitions of brick and 
the cornice of zinc and iron. The building has 
three courts, the center one having an iron- 
framedglass covering, and is 144by'84feet, witha 
drive-way and sidewalk opening on NewMontgom- 
eiT' street, forty-feet wide. The two outercourts, 
from the basement level, are each 22 by 135 feet, 
with two drive-ways, 20 feet wide, one from 
Market and Annie streets, and one from Annie 
an' Jessie streets. These are connected by two 
brick-arched passage-ways, ten feet in width, 
allowing ample space for a four-in-hand team to 
pass under and through them. 

Besides the city water- wofks, a supply of water 
comes from four artesian wells of a ten-inch bore, 
whichhave acapacity of 28,000 gallons i)er hour. 
A reservoir is located under the centre court, cap- 
able of containing 630,000 gallons. On the roof are 
■ seventanks, which will contain 128,000 gallons. 

The hotel is supplied with two steam force 
pumps for water, two additional for fire, five ele- 
vators, together with all the modern improve- 
ments, and buUt throughout in the most sub- 
stantial manner. (See illustration page 180.) 

Xo. 53 Annex. "Pricltey," the Horned 
Tuad. See page 126. 



^^ 2sr :n^ E X. 



25^ 



BTo. 53 Annex. Yo-Seniite and Bis 
Trees. See page 184. 

No. 5-I- Annex. Our Artists— The greater 
portion of the engraving in this work was exe- 
cuted by B. S. Bross, of New York, and C. W. 
Chandler, cor. Madison and Dearborn Sts., Chi- 
cago. Nearly all the large views, including "Utah's 
Best Crop," "Women of the Period," and "Brig- 
ham Young," and most of the large views were 
engraved frona photographs, by Mr. Bross, while 
the "Orange Orchard," "The Loop," "Crossing 
the Sangre de Christo Mountains," Yucca Palm," 
"Hanging Rock of Utah," etc., were engraved by 
Mr. Chandler. 

The photographs were by Savage, of Salt Lake 
City, and Watkins and Houseworth, of San 
Francisco. All of these artists we take pleasure 
in recommending. 

No. 55 Annex. The "Boss" Cactus of 
the "World — on page 2,33, a simple reference 
has been made to this wonderful Sprout as being 
peculiar to the Gila Desert. It is possible they 
may grow in other portions of the Territory, but 
certain i is, these are the first on our route. 

These Cacti are of different shades of green and 
yellow, and rise from the ground in the shajje of 
a hiige cone, many to the height of 60 feet, with a 
diameter of three feet near the ground. Some of 
these great cones have from one to five smaller 
cones that branch out from the main trunk at 
differen- heights, and shoot up parallel with it to 
various heights, all presenting the same general 
a.i)pearance. 

All these cones are grooved from top to bottom, 
the grooves being from one to three inches in 
depth and as many inches apart ; the whole sur- 
face ia covered with thorns of various sizes, — 
some three inches in length ; and all very shariJ. 

These cacti have a tough flaxen shell or exte- 
rior, but a soft, i)ithy inside, and produce one 
blossom annually — on the toji — and yield a kind 
of fruit much prized by the natives. 

On the Gila Desert, no tree or shrub grows 
more than a few feet from the ground, and rattle- 
snakes, hzards, owls, and woodpeckers are about 
the only living things noticeable. 

How the lizard and owl manage to raise the 
young, and keep them from being devoured by the 
snake, is a problem which the woodpecker alone 
has solved by pecking a hole in the tall cactus near 
its top, making its nest, and raising its young se- 
cure from the snake and all its creejjing enemies. 
As we ride alongandseeMr. Woodpecker peeking 
out from his fortress in the tall cactus, we cannot 
help but admire the sagacity of the little fellow, 
while condemning his judgment for attempting to 
Uve and bring up a respectable family in such a 
•'God-forsaken country" as the Gila Desert. 

No. 5S Annex. Ne^r ISacramento De- 
pot. See page 173. 

"So. as Annex. The Mammiith Snow 
Plow. See page 126, 

No. 64 Annex. Arizona is a Territory of 
122,000 square miles, more than double the size 
of the State of Pennsylvania, and, if reports are 
true, contains a wealth of minerals far exceeding 
any portion of I the United States. Indian diffi- 
culties have had much to do in retarding the set- 
tlement of the Territory, but happily they are 
now at an end, and the i)roximity of the "iron 
horse" has had a tendency to direct attention to 
this heretofore almost inaccessible region, the 
result of which will soon enable the land of Ari- 
ztittma — "The Beautiful of the Sun" — to come for- 
ward and demand admission into the Union of 



States as one more star in the bright constella- 
tion. Spanish Adventurers penetrated Arizona 
as early as 1540, but no i^ermanent settlement was 
made until 1560, when the Jesuit Fathers'settled 
with their followers at Tucson. In 1725 there 
were thirty missions within the present limits of 
Arizona, besides seventy-one Indian villages in 
charge of the Jesuit Missionaries. At that time 
these missions were in the height of their pros- 
perity, and from which time they commenced to 
decline, owing principally to Indian difficulties. 
Many of the Missions were burned and the 
jiriests murdered. 

The mineral deposits of Arizona are very exten- 
sive and very rich ; principally gold, silver, cop- 
per and coal, but we have no space to particularize. 
We will simply presentafew "items," andchron- 
ological events : In 1540, the Spanish viceroy — 
Mendoza -ordered an exi^loration of Arizona, at 
which time there were 200 silver mines being 
worked. The miners and peoijle were despoiled 
and immense wealth carried away to Madrid, 
Sijain. 

In March, 1539, Padre Marco de Niza, and 
Senor Estivanico — a man of color — left CaUacana 
— New Spain— and reached the GUa River, and 
discovered the Pima Indian villages, at the same 
point in the valley that their descendents are 
now found. 

In 1560, the first settlement was made at Tuc- 
son. An Indian outbreak in 1802, and again in 
1827, made the tenure of the Spanish rule pre- 
carious and practically ended it ; yet, soldiers 
remained in the country in small numbers until 
1840. In 1824, Sylvester Pattie and his son 
James — formerly of Bardstown, Ky. — visited Ari- 
zona on a trapping expedition, failing in their ef- 
forts to find game, they were arrested by order 
of the Mexican commander of San Diego and im- 
prisoned, where the father died. Sometime af- 
terwards James was released, and joined the 
famous Walker expedition and was killed in 
battle. 

In 1849, the "Southern Route" — through Ari- 
zona — was much frequented by emigi'ants en- 
route for the gold fields of California, which re- 
sulted in much suffering and loss of life. 

Arizona and New Mexico were ceded to the 
United States by Mexico, Februai-y 2d, 1848— or 
that portion laying north of the Gila and MasiUa 
valleys. The portion to the south, was not ac- 
quired until December 30, 18.53, and was known 
as the "Gads-den's Purchase." This last acquisi- 
tion formed a part of Sonora. The Boundary 
Commission commenced its work in the summer 
of 1849 and comijleted it in 1855. 

Cap. John Moss — is said to be the first explorer 
of the Grand Canon of the Coloi-ado.in 1850. Major 
Heintzehuan located Fort Yuma in 185 1. Lieut. 
Ives, explored the Colorado River and its lower 
canons, in 18.54. 

Lieut. A. B. Gray, in 1854, made a survey for 
a railroad from Marshall, Texas, to El Paso and 
thence westward to Tubac, from which point 
branch surveys were made to PostLabos, on the 
Gulf of California, and via Yuma to San JDiego. — 
This line was known as the Hon. Robert J. 
Walker route, for which bonds were issued in 
1852. 

Lieut. Park, in 1854-5, made a survey from 
San Diego, Cal., via Yunaa and Tucson to El Paso, 
Texas. 

Yuma — first called Arizona City — was laid 
out in 1854. In August, 1856, a party left San 
Antonio, Texas, to prospett for mineral in An- 



260 



--V isr N- K X . 



zona. Their route -was via Apache Pass— and a 
perilous one. UiJon their arrival at Tubac — the 
party was divided and a hunt for silver mines 
commenced through the mountains of Santa Rita, 
Arivaca and the Cerro Colorado. Many mines 
were discovered and several companies formed 
for working them, but the Apaches got away 
with most of the mineral and (ill the scalps. 

The Crabb expedition — of 1,000 men — raised 
in California, in j 856-7, for colonizing Sonora, 
reached Sonoita, Arizona, in March, ] 8.57. By 
invitation of the Sonora authorities, an advance 
of 100 men with their commander, Henry A. 
CraLb, entered Sonora soou alter, and were met 
atCoborca, by Pesqueira, Governor of the State 
of Sonora, and every person killed. Crabbs' head 
was cut off and sent by the Governor to the City 
of Mexico, as an evidence of his loyalty to his 
government. This act checked immigration to 
Sonora. 

In 1837, Senator Guiuu of California, endeav- 
ored to secure a territorial organization for Ari- 
zona, but failed. 

In August, 1857, J. C. Woods, established a 
semi-monthly stage line, between San Antonio, 
Texas, and San Diego, Cal. In 1858, the Butter- 
field semi-weekly stage line was established, be- 
tween St. Louis, Mo., and San Francisco, Cal., 
with a subsidy from the Government of .8600,000 
a year.— Time 83 days. His service was faith- 
fully performed — without n single failure — until 
1861, the outbreak of our civil war, when the 
route was changed, leaving St. Joseph, Mo., and 
going via Salt Lake City, Utah. 

In 1861, the Government troops were with- 
drawn from Arizona and the Indians and des- 
perados took possession. 

In 1860, Senator* Green of Missouri, endeav- 
ored to have a bill passed for a temjiorary Gov- 
ernment for Arizona, but failed. 

In 1800, a fiUibustering expedition was fitted 
out in CaUforuia to invade Sonora, but without 

The' 27th of February, 1862, Cap. Hunter of 
the Southern Confederacy with 100 men, took 
possession of Tucson. The advance of Gen'l 
Carlton, with the California column of Federal 
troops, met Capt. Hunter's forces, near Pecacho 
Peak — 40 miles west of Tucson — resulting in a 
victory for Gen'l Carlton, and the retreat of all 
Confederate troops into Texas. 

February 2-lth, 1^03, Congress passed the Or- 
ganic Act, estabhshing Arizona as a Territory, 
with John N, Goodwin, of Maine, as Governor. 
Arizona, until February 24th, 1863, was a jiart 
of New Mexico. 

The Territory was formally organized on Dec. 
24th, 1863, at Navajo Springs, 40 miles north- 
west from the noted Zuni Pueblo. 

When the Territory was organized, it was said 
to contain 32,40O Indians and only 580 Whites. 

An old Arizonian said, when he saw the first 
locomotive coming : "I felt just as though I must 
go and hug it." 

In 1880, the production of precious metals in 
Arizona was $4,472,471. In 1881 , the same was 
$8,198,766— an increase of 83,726,295. Should 
we venture to jsrophesy — tor 1882 — oiir figures 
■would exceed 810,000,000, and — for 1890 — 
$25,000,000. This Territory— in a mineral point 
of view — is greatly uiulerraied. 

The Indian trouiales of last year have tended to 
make, not only every soldier, but every teamster, 
wood-chopper, burro puncher, mule-skinner, bull- 
Whacker and all other men — traveling arsenals ; 



with a belt about the waist loaded with cartridges, 
a pair of six-shooters, a formidable knife and a 
rifle for long range. 

The soil in the valleys of Arizona is a rich 
gravelly alluvium, and with sufficient water, 
would produce abundant crops ; in some portions, 
two croijs a year. 

The rains come in July, August and Septem- 
ber, and the sand storms cloud bursts a'nd "bliz- 
zards" occasionally. 

During our civil war, Arizona was one field of 
carnage. Inctiau dexwedations, nearly devastated 
the country. 

Over 40,000 square miles of coal formation can 
be traced in the Territory ; one of the most im- 
portant is the San Carlos Indian Reservation. 

Just east of Old Maricojia Wells stage station, 
at the base of the Estrella range, may be seen a 
remarkable formation, representing distinctly 
the perfect face of a man reclining, with his eyes 
closed, as though in sleep. The Indians in this 
country have a legend concerning this face. They 
believe it is Montezuma's face — and that he will 
awaken from his long sleep some day, wUl gather 
ah the brave and ttie faithful around him, uplift 
his down-trodden peojile, expell the invaders on 
his rights, and restore to his kingdom all the 
great power and glory, as it was before the 
white man visited it. — It is reported, that in 
some localities, watch-fires are kept constantly 
burning in anticipation of Montezuma's early 
coming. 

]\o. C5 Annex. EMIGRANT SJLEEP- 
IXfir CARS — Of all the improvements adopted 
by Raih-oad companies in this country, for the 
comfort and convenience of their passengers, the 
Sleeping" Car, is the most important, and we 
might add, the inost expensive to the passengers. 
Indeed, the charges for berths in Sleeping Cars, 
on many roads — together with onerous perquis- 
ites, virtually exclude the greater portion of the 
traveling pviblic. Most men emigrating with 
their wives and fanailies to the El Dorado of the 
West, start with small means, depending upon 
pluck, energy and hard work, for the future out- 
come ; these parties cannot pay three or more 
dollars a day for sleeping accommodations, how- 
ever anxious they may be, to alleviate the hard- 
ships incidental to a long journey in the emi- 
grant cars. 

The honest, sober, industrious, economical and 
enterisrising emigrant, is the germ of lije in our 
trans-Missouri country. To cherish, aid, and 
ameliorate the condition of the emigi-ant, is to 
hasten the settlement of the vast amount of un- 
occupied land, and the developemeut of the enor- 
mous mineral and other resources of the great 
West, the results of which, are not only of great 
interest to all good citizens, hut oi ijaramount 
importance to the gi-eat Raih'oads of the country, 
the basis of whose existence are founded iipon the 
very class of emigrants named, without which 
they would never have been built. 

Families emigrating, should have the special 
care , attention, mid pirotectioii, of the Railroad 
companies' agents, over whose road they are trav- 
eling, t gether with all the comforts and conveni- 
ences possible, and at the loicest rates of fare. 

The Pacific Raih-oaii companies' agents have al- 
ways been noted for the fatherly attention shown 
their emigrant passengers, and the Sleeping Cars 
now in use by this line, especially for their erni- 
grants, are for comfort and convenience, far in 
advance of any car heretofore used on emigrant 
trains. These cars are 44 feetlong, 9 feet 4 inches 



A.N ?<r E X. 



261 



■wide, with, raised roof, patent air brake couplers, 
aud all suodern Sleeping Car improvements, — 
excepting only upholstery, — and •«ill accommo- 
date 48 persons. The seat frames, are of iron, 
the back and seats aud upper berths are wood 
slats. The seats let down, and the upper berths 
fold up, the same as those in the Palace Sleepers 
now in use on the first-class trains. The wood- 
work about the seats and upper berths is ash, 
polished and varnished— without paint. 

As most emigi-ants are provided with blankets, 
and more or less lieddiug of their own, they are 
enabled to get along very comfortably, ancf as no 
extra charge is made for the Sleepers — economic- 
ally. 

l\Io. 6G Annex. [From page 32.] THE 
0:»IAHA, MOBKAKA & BLiACK 
IIIIjl>i!$ K. K. This road was commenced in 
1879, at Jackson, Neb., on the line of the Union 
Pacific, seven miles west of Columbus, and ili) 
west ot Omaha, and is now completed and run- 
ning to Norfolk, 4G miles north, at which place it 
connects with the railroad running up the Elk- 
horn Valley from Fremont. [See page 29.] This 
new road runs through a rich agricultural and 
well-settled section of countrj', and, as its name 
implies, its objective point is the gold regions of 
tile Black Hills, towards which it is being pushed 
with the usual energy displayed by the Union 



Pacific management, by whom it is controlled. 
The line of this road has recently been changed 
and now runs fromi Columbus. 

ITEIIS— Gold— It is reported that Sir Fran- 
cis Drake was the first discoverer of gold ou the 
Pacific Coast. He landed on the coast a few miles 
north of the Bay of San Francisco, in the summer 
of 1.57S, and reported to Queen Elizabeth: "There 
is no part of earth here to be taken up wherein 
there is not a reasonable quantity of gold and 
silver." Yet the discovery was not followed up. 

ITEMS. — The Southern Pacific Eailroad 
reached El Paso, Texas, May 13th, 1881. The 
Texas & Pacific connects with the Southern at 
Sien-a Blanca, 91 'i miles east from El Paso, and 
runs into El Paso on the Southern's track. The 
first train of the Texas & Pacific rolled into El 
Paso, December 31, 1881. January 16th, the 
Southern — or the Galveston, Harrisburg & San 
Antonio Railway — was completed to Marfa, 19.5 
miles east of El Paso. The Mexican Central, 
had February 1 st, 1882, over 50 miles of track 
laid from El Paso, south, into Old Mexico. The 
elevation of El Paso, is 3,300 feet above sea 
level. Its population is about 3,000. El Paso 
Del Norte, Mexico, has a Mexican population of 
about 4,000. 



GRIP-SACK GUIDEOF COLORADO. 

A COMPLETE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF THE STATE. 
4Sg" Will you please to read a few of the opinions of this book from Coloradoans— those most 
competent to judge of its merits? 

Indorsement by the Denver Board of Trade. 

George A. Cboputt, Esq.— The copy of your " Grip Sack Guide of Colorado," presented to this 
Board came duly to hand. I have to report to you that the Board of Directors, by resolution, pass- 
ed you a vote of thanks and expressed the opinion that it is the most complete, concise and truth- 
ful book ever published on the resources of our State, and give it their miqaulified indorsement. To 
this I would add my own approval, assuring the tourist, emigrant and the public generally who 
desire a most complete encyclopedia of Colorado that they will find it full of interest from begin- 
ning to end. Yours respectfully, J. T. CORNFORTH, President Board of Trade. 

" The most comijlete, most thorough and reliable guide that has ever been offered to the 

community. The boob, which has nearly 200 pages and near 100 illustrations, contains in a con- 
densed form all that the traveler or the tenderfoot need to know about the wonderful land that sur- 
rounds us." — lioclcy Momitain News, Denver, Colo. 

^' The subject matter is carefully prepared, and a large amount of excellent matter is con- 
densed in its columns. San Juan is treated in a fair manner." — Silver World, Lake City, Colo. 

" To the tourist and travel? r the work is indispensable ; in fact, none traveling over any 

portion of Colorado, can afford to do without it." — Tribuiie, Greeley, Colo. 

" It is the most complete, authentic and concise work ever written on the Centennial State." 

— Elk Mountain Pilot, Irwin, Colo. 

" The Grip Sack is a model for all books of its kind. It is elegantly and copiously illustrated, 

and furnishes the most valuable information in the most convenient form." — Gazette, Colorado 
Springs, Colo. 

" The most complete work ever published on this State, as the author has made personal 

tours through the State and knows whereof he speaks, and is also a man capable of seeing and 
describing;." — Independent, Alamosa, Colo. 

" It is free from gloss or 'taffy' so often found in works of this kind." — San Juan Herald. 

" Without hesitation we pronounce it the most perfect, complete and convenient work of 

the kind that ever came under our notice. It is a work invaluable to those visiting the State, and 
of great interest and importance to everybody. ' — Mountaineer, Colorado Springs, Colo. 

" It is a pei-fect gem of typographical art and is chuck full of information, which makes it a 

most desirable book for tourists and others coming into the State, as it tells, to use its own language, 
what is worth seeing, where to see it, how to go, where to stop and what it costs." — Sierra Journal, 
Kosita, Colo. 

J&S= Crof utt's Grip-Sack Guide is piiblished by The Overland Publishing Co., of Omaha, Neb., 
printed on fine tinted paper, magnificently illustrated, bound in full cloth and gold, for the library, 
and a Railway Edition in flexible cloth. It contains a complete map (colored) ol the State, and is 
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^W Don't fail to buy the G7ip-Sack if you, want to k)ioiv all about the great Centennial State; the 
Btatc that produces annually the largest amount of precious metals in the ivorld — ovek $26,000,000. 



262 



OVERLAND TIME TABLE. 



UNION PACIFIC EASTERN DIV. 

+ Meals. P. J. Nichols, Division Supt., Omaha, Neb. * Telegraph. 



WEST BOUND. 



Denver 
Express. 



Daily 
Emigr'nt. 



7.00+ PM 



7.35 

7.45 

8.00 

8.13 

8.30 

8.50 

8.. 57 

9.10 

9.25 

9.37 

9.54 
10.13 
10.30 
10.47 
11.05 
11.23 
11.40P1I 
12.04 
12.18 
12.31 
12.45 
12.58 

1.07 

1.24 

1.37 

1.55 

2.23 

2.42 

3.00 

3.15 

3.35 

3.45 

4.00 

4.00 

4.25 

4.48 

5.00 

5.15 

5.33 

5.48 

6.00 

6.24 

6.43 

6.55 

7.05 

7.23 

7.40 



5.47 

6.28 

7.00 

7.25 

7.55 

8.32 

8.42 

9.00 

9.40 
10.03 t 
10.35 
11.10 
11.40 
12.17 A : 
12.55 

1.35 

2.15 

3.07 

3.33 

4.00 

4.27 

4.. 53 

5.03 

5.40 

6.05 

6.35 + 

7.50 

8.30 

9.05 

9.35 
10.12 
10.30 
11.00 
11.20 
11.50 
12.45 P 

1.05 

1.35 + 

2.10 

2.37 

3.00 

3.45 

4.20 

4.39 

5.00 

5.30 

G.OO + 



Daily Ex. 

1st & 2d 

Class. 



15PMt 

25 

40 

52 

09 

30 

37 

50 

05 

15 + 

53 

12 

30 

48 

08 

29 

47 

12 

26 

40 

54 

08 

16 

33 

46 

00 + 

42 

05 

25 

42 

05 

16 

33 

44 

03 

30 

42 

59 

20 

35 

48 

15 A M 

37 

50 

oe 

23 
40 



OMAHA TIME. 



STATIONS. 



Lv. 



.Transfer Ar 



Lv 



*Omaha Depot Ar 

Summit Siding 

*GiliBore 

*Papillion ' 

*Millard 

*Elkhorn 

Waterloo 

* Valley 

Mercer 

*Fremont 

Ames 

*.Nortli Bend. . . . 

Rogers 

*Schuyler 

,*Benton 

*Columbus 

*Duncan 

*Silver Creek 

'Havens 

*Clark's 

Thummel's 

*Central City. . . . 

Paddock 

*Cliapmau's. . . . 

Lockwood 

*Grand Island... 

Alda 

*Wood Kiver. . . . 

Shelton 

*Gibbon 

*Buda 

*Kearney Junction, 

Stevenson 

Odessa 

*Eha Creek 

*Overton 

Josselyn 

*Plum Creek 

Cayotte 

Cozad 

*Wil'ow Island 

Warren 

*Brady Island 

Hindrey 

Maxwell 

Gannett 

Ar *North Platte Lv 



966 
1142 
976 
972 
1047 
1150 
1140 
114 
1120 
1176 
1270 
1259 
1359 
1335 
1440 
1432 
1470 
1534 

ieio 



1686 



1760 
1800 
1850 
1907 
1974 
2010 
2046 
2106 
2150 
2170 



2241 
2305 
2330 
2370 
2440 
2480 
2511 
25''0 
2637 
2695 



2752 
2789 



EAST BOUND. 



Daily Ex. 

1st & 2d 

Class. 



4.00 P M 

3.25PMf 

3.10 

2.55 

2.42 

2.25 

2.06 

2.00 

1..50 

1.34 

1.20 t 
12.38 
12.18 
12 00 nooa 
12.43 
11.25 
11.05 
10.47 
10.21 
10.08 

9.54 

9.40 

9.25 

9.16 

9.00 

8.46 

8.30 + 

7.50 

7.30 

7.10 

6.54 

6.32 

6.21 

6.05 

5.53 

5.35 

5.12 

5.00 

4.45 

4.25 

4.10 

3.58 

3.33 

3.14 

2 02 

2 52 

2.35 

2.20 A M 



Daily 
Emigr'nt. 



20 

00 

30 

05 

35 

55 

45 

25 

50 

25 + 

50 

13 A : 

45 

47 

08 

35 

00 

15 

50 

50 

00 

33 

16 

46 

25 

00 + 

03 

28 

55 

25 

45 

25 

55 

35 

05 P 

23 

03 

34 

59 

,33 

,10 

,25 

,48 

,25 

,05 

,27 

,00 A 



Denver 
Express. 



.OOt AM 



35 

22 
07 
55 
40 
21 
15 
05 
50 
38 
21 
02 
45 
27 
08 
49 
31 
07 
45 
41 
28 
15 
07 
50 
37 
20 
52 
33 

15 P M 
00 night 
40 
30 
16 
06 
51 
30 
17 
03 
46 
32 
21 
58 
40 
,30 
21 
05 
,50 p M 



MOUNTAIN DIVISION. 

BOBEBT Law, Div. Supt. North Platte, Nf.b. 



8.00 


6.30 P M 


2.00 A M 


291 


8.18 


7.10 


2.25 


299 


8.25 


7.50 


2.45 


308 


8.55 


8 38 


3.00 


315 


9.13 


9.03 


3 20 


322 


9; 36 


9.47 


3.45 


332 


9.57 


10.33 


4.07 


342 


10.02 


10.40 


4.12 


344 


10 21 


11.20 


4.30 


351 


10.44 


12.00 night 


4.55 


361 


11,02 


12.. 37 A M 


4.20 


369 


11.10 A M 


12.. 55 


5.32 A M 


371 



iLv North Platte Ar 

Nichols 

....*0'Fallon's 

Dexter 

*Alkali 

Koscoe 

*Ogalalla 

Bosler 

Brule 

....*Big Spring 

Barton 

.♦Denver Junction 



2789 
2882 
2976 
3000 



2.00 

1.38 

1.13 
12.53 
3038 '12. 33 
3105)12.10 A M 
3190 11.45 
.... 11.40 
3266,11.20 
3325 10.53 
3421110.32 
3430! 10. 22 



5.35 

5.05 

4.30 

4.05 

3.20 

2.22 

1.27 

1.20 

12.42 A yi 
12. 00 night 
11.18 
11.00 



7.30 
7.10 
6.50 
6.35 
6.10 
5.56 
5.36 
5.32 
5.15 
4.55 
4.37 
4.30 P M 



Note.— See thu-d page ahead for continuation of Overland Time. 



OVERLAJSTD TIME TABLE. 



263 



UNION PACIFIC KANSAS PACIFIC DIV. 

D. E. CornelIj, Gen'l Agt. Pass' r and Ticket Departments Kansas City, Mo. 



WEST BOUND TRAINS. 



Emigr'nt 



11.00 

11.05 

11.55 

12.12 A 

12.2.5 

12.37 

12.56 

1.36 

1.40 

2.00 

2.40 

2.54 

3.00 

3.20 

3.40 

4.08 

4.20 

4.39 

5.03 

5.28 

6.00 

6.26 

7.20 

7.50 

8.30 

9.24 

9.55 
10.08 
11.18 
11.46 
12,20 P 
12.57 

1.31 

1.56 

2.30 

3.15 

3.35 

4.06 

4.35 

4.46 

5.12 

5.40 

6.32 

7.40 

8 31 

9.20 

9.33 

9.54 
10.. 50 A 
12.10 

1.05 

2.20 

3.. 50 

5.10 

5.35 

0.10 



Col. Ex. 



9.50 

9.50 

9.55 
10.26 
10.36 
10.46 
10.54 
11.07 
11.32 
11.35 
11.38 
12.05 P 
12.15 
12.19 
12.26 
12.41 
12.58 

1.00 + 

1.31 

1.46 

2.01 

2.20 

2.36 

2.55 

3.23 

3.45 

4.17 

4.32 

4.43 

5.17 

6.35 

5.50 + 

6.33 

6.53 

7.08 

7.30 

7.45 

8.10 

8.27 

8.12 

8.49 

9.03 

9.25 

9.48 
10.22 
10.50 
11.11 
11.19 
11.30 
11.56 
12.27 A 
12.57 

1.17 

1.33 

2.25 + 

2.40 

3.02 * 



Pac. Ex. 



3.00 P M 



15 

20 

54 

04 

14 

22 

35 

01 A M 

04 

07 

35 

44 

48 

55 

10 

29 

31 

45 

02 

19 

41 

00 

30 

48 

10 

41 

00 

08 

45 

01 

35 t 

02 

26 

45 

10 

40 

52 

12 

27 

35 

50 

10 

35 

16 

46 

15 P M 

22 

35 

05 

10 + 

40 

05 

45 

25 

40 

04 



OW 



STATIOXS. 



*Tel. 



+ Meals. 



Lv Boston. 



.Ar 



.New York. 
. ..Chicago.. . 



.St. Louis . 



Lv *Kausa3 City Ar 



*Leavenworth 

*State Line 

*Arnistrong 

*Edwardville 

, Tiblow 

Loring 

Lenape 

*Linwood 

L. & L. Junction 

Bismarck Grove 

*Lawrence 

Willianaston 

Perry Ville 

Medina 

Newman 

*Grantville 

. ..A.,T. & S. F. Crossing.. 

*Topeka 

Menoken 

*Silver Lake 

*Rossville 

*St. Marys 

Belvue 

*Waraego 

St. George 

''Manhattan 

*Ogdensburg 

Ft. Eiley 

* Junction City 

*Hazleton 

*Detroit 

*Abi!ene 

*SolorQon 

New Cambria 

*SaIina 

*Bavaria 

*BrookviIle 

Areola 

*Alum Creek 

Mount Zion 

Fort Harker 

*Ellsworth 

Black Wolf 

* Wilson 

*Bunker Hill 

*Pajssell 

*Gorham 

Walkei 

*Victoria 

*Havs 

*Eiris 

*Ogallah 

*WaKeeney 

*Co-lo-no 

*Buffalo Park 

Grainfield 

*GrinneU 



EAST BOUND TRAINS. 



Atlantic 
Ex. 



1018 
1018 
1042 
1078 
1090 
1100 
1132 
1153 
1173 
1193 



1243 
1289 
1366 
1459 
1586 
1672 
1600 
1556 
1583 
1702 
1882 



1962 



2009 

213: 

2385 



12773 



5.52 p M 



5.55 

5.. 50 

5.18 

5.08 

4.59 

4.51 

4.38 

4.13 

4.10 

4.07 

3.40 

3.31 

3.27 

3.20 

3.07 

2.50 

2.48 

2.35 

2.18 

2.02 

1.42 

1.24 

1.05 

12.42 

12.22 

11.53 

11.. 35 

11.29 

10.54 

10.38 

10 22 

9.. 59 

9.38 

9.21 

8.59 

8.40 



Eastern 
Ex. 



2.25 P M 



7.. 50 
7.35 
7.28 
7.15 
6.. 55 
6.32 
5.. 55 
5.27 
5.00 
4.52 
4.42 
4.10 
3.35 
2.40 
2.10 
1.35 
1.00 
....!12.45 
2922! 12. 22 



.55 

.30 
.25 
.55 
.46 
.39 
.33 
.22 
.00 
..58 
.55 
,31 
.24 
,20 
13 
,01 
,47 
,25 
,14 
01 
46 
30 
16 
53 
,35 

,19 P M 
51 
.36 
30 
,58 
,48 
30 
10 
.50 
35 
15 
40 + 
30 
15 
01 
53 
42 
17 
59 
25 
03 
37 
30 
20 
55 

,17 t 
,54 
,32 
14 
,25 
.06 

.43 AM 



Emigr'nt 



6 .05 
3.10 



05 
.55 
,05 
49 
,36 
23 
04 
25 
20 

15 P M 
38 
21 
,14 
01 
35 
03 
00 
24 
56 
30 
55 
26 
45 
45 
10 
00 
25 
10 
03 
30 

03 A M 
15 
25 
00 
10 
45 
10 
30 
00 
45 
12 
37 
53 
45 
55 
10 
55 
35 P M 

2.7 

15 
35 
55 
40 
10 
44 

45 A M 



Jefferson Citv f.me — .50 mi'-iutes faster than Denver. 



264 



OVERLAND TIME TABLE. 



UNION PACIFIC KANSAS PACIFIC DIV. 



COlTTHsTTJEID. 



TRAINS BOUND 


WEST. 


aw 


STATIONS. 

tMeals. 


*Tel. 


03 . 

> a 


TRAINS BOUND EAST. 


Emigr't. 


Col. Exp. 


Pacific 
Express. 


-Atlantic 
Exj)ress. 


Eastern 
Express. 


Emigr't. 


7.06 


3.34 

4.01 

4.44 

j.20 + 

6.02 

6.30 

7.00 

7.39 

8.22 

9.05 

9.25 + 
10.44 
11.55 
12.28 

1.31 

2.30 P M 


5.40 

6 10 

7.00 

7.10 + 

8.55 

9.30 
10.00 
10.45 
11.35 p M 
12.30 

1.10 

2.10 

3.40 

4.15 

5.25 

6.35 

9.00 

11.26 A M 

1.50 P M 


376 
387 
405 
420 
4.52 
461 
472 
487 
509 
523 
534 
555 
583 
595 
617 
639 
639 
690 
741 
639 
655 
684 
727 
769 








3064 
3199 
3121 
3319 
4024 
4295 
4595 
4307 
4666 
4859 
5068 
.5511 
5203 


11.52 
11.21 
10.40 
10.00 

7.25 

6.55 

6.30 

5.50 

5.00 

4.14 

3.50 

2.45 

1.25 
12.. 50 A M 


1.16 A M 

12 49 
12.06 A M 
10.35 

9.25 

9.05 

8.41 

8.00 

7.15 

6.34 

6.15 

5.04 

3.52 

3.25 

2.33 

1.30 P M 


y 4.T 


8 00 






1 45 


9.30 




12 20 A M 


10. K A M 








11 00 


1.05 






7 05 


1.55 

2.55 




. .*Cheyeuno Wells. 





6.25 
5 37 


4.55 




*Kif-, Carson 


3.57 


6.10 




2.20 


7.30 
8.20 




Mirage 




12.45 
12.05 P M 


9.50 






9.10 


H.50 P M 


*Deer Trail 




6.. 50 


J2.50 






5.50 


2.30 


*Box Elder 




^•■iu; 


11.46 
10.45 


4.05 


4.0O 


Ar.. 


Denver 


..Lv 


5197 


2.00 


4 BO 




Lv. 
Lv.. 

A V ' 


Denver 


...Ai- 


5197 
4479 
6041 


C.50 
4.32 
2 10 




1 40 A M 


7.45 A M 






10.05 


11.50 p M 




Cheyenne. .. . 

Denver 

Golden 


..Lv 
. ..Ar 




6.00 P M 














7.00 A M 

7.30 
9.25 
11.25 
1.25 P M 


5197 10 no 










5387 
5184 
4966 
63'' 5 


9.15 
7.37 
5 45 
4 00 P M 


















....Fort Collins... 
.Colorado Junction 


iiv 


1 






1 





















UNION PACIFIC St. JOS^EPH & WESTERN DIV. 





EN, Genen 
























GOING WEST. 




STATIONS. 

+ Meals. 




GOING EAST. 




No. 1. 


No. 3. 
Pac. Ex. 


No. 4. 


No. 2. 






a 

This Train connects with Express on Main < 
L,iue for Omaha, and all points East mlnS 


0.30 A M 

6.42 

6.54 

7.21 

7.25 

7.. 53 

8.05 

8.22 

8.47 

9.10 

9.21 

9.40 
10.05 
10.31 
11.04 
11.. 33 
12.30+ PM 
12.45 

1.10 

1.45 

1.57 

2.26 

3.05 

3.30 

3.50 

4.10 

4.. 34 

4.. 56 

5.45 

6.15 

6.47+ PM 


1 

6 
14 
15 
25 
29 
34 
43 

54 

61 

69 

77 

89 

99 

112 

118 

128 

137 

142 

1.5-2 

167 

17o 

lfi,3 


Lv St. Joseph Ar 

El-wroa 




9.00 P M 

8.48 

8.35 

8.10 

8.06 

7.37 

7.25 

7.08 

6.43 

0.21 

6.09 

5.50 + 


'J. 

H 
if 

^ s 

ft 
P 

c i 

E i 

? 5 

8.47 A M 

8.07 

7.30 


















. . .Troy 
























































Morrill 
















Oneida 




5.06 








4.42 

4.08 

3.40 

3.00 

2.44 

2.20 

1.45 

1.32 

1.05 + 
12. OF P M 
11.44 
71.25 






Axtell 












































Steele Citv 








































191 

200 
209 
227 1 
240 1 
2521 






11.07 
10.42 
10. 21 

9.35 

9.05 

8.35 A M 














. . Fairfield 









































Note.— Trains run on St. Joseph time between St. Joseph and Grand Island. 



OVERLAND TIME TABLE. 



265 



UNION PACIFIC MOUNTAIN DIV. 

+ Meals. * Telegraph. 



WEST FROM OMAHA. 



Daily 
Emigr'nt. 



12.55 

1.2 

2.15 

3.00 

3.45 

■1.30 t 

5.30 

6.20 

7.00 

7.4.5 

8.12 

8.40 

9.. 30 
10.00 
10.32 
11.10 
11.45 
12.20 p 
12.. 55 

1.40 + 

2.55 

3.17 

3.40 

4.05 

4.40 

5.20 

6.20 

6.50 

7.20 

8.05 

8.20 p 



Daily 
Express 
lst&2dc's 



32 
.48 
20 
.48 
,18 
,45 + 
,85 
,0 
3 

00 
13 
35 
05 
22 
40 

00 noon 
17 p M 
37 
55 

20 + 
00 
15 

30 , 

50 
15 
43 
08 
25 
43 
10 
20 P M 



OMAHA TIME. 



STATIOXS. 



371 Denver Junction. . 

377 Weir 

387 Chappel 

397 *Lodge Pole.... 

407 Coltou 

414 *Sidney 

423 Brownson 

433 *Potter 

442 Dix 

451 *Antelope 

457 Adams 

463 Bushnell 

473 *Piue Bluffs, W. T. 

479 Tracj 

484 Egbert 

490 Burns 

496 *Hillsdale 

.502 Atkins 

508 *Archer 

516 *Cheyenne 

522 Colorado Junction. 

526 Boris 

531 Otto 

536 *Grauite Canon . . 

543 *Buford 

549| *Slieniian 

555| Tie Siding 

558i Harney 

564| *Red Buttes.... 

570 *Fort Sanders... 

573' *Larainie 



5 EAST FROM CALIFORNIA. 



Daily 

S llSdcUEmigr-nt. 



Daily 



H 

3430 
3500 
3702 
3800 
4022 
4073 
4200 
4370 
4580 
4712 
4784 
4860 
5026 
5149 
5272 
5428 
5591 
5800 
6000 
6041 
0325 
6469 
6724 
7298 
7780 
8242 
7985 
7857^ 
7336' 
7163 
7123 



22 p 

t)8 

40 

15 

50 

05 + 

40 

15 

50 

27 

12 

50 

30 

15 

00 

45 

30 

12 

57 

15 t 

55 

43 

30 

13 

50 

23 

00 

45 

30 

12 

05 P 



.50 P M 

.30 

.40 

.55 

.15 

.05 

.27 

.45 

.07 

.28 

.05 

.37 

.52 

.27 

.00 

.32 

.05 

.20 P M 

.57 

.50 

.15 

.50 

.25 

.40 

.00 

.00 

.25 

.00 

.35 

.57 

.45 A M 



LAKAMIE DIVISION. 

E. Dickinson, Div. Supt Labamie, W. T. 



! 9.00 p 

1 9.40 
]10.09 
10.45 
11.20 
111. 47 
112.15 A 
12.40 

1.00 

1.30 

2.1i? 

2.. 55 

3.33 

3.-50 

4.2.5 

4. ,50 

5.13 

6.00 

6.. 3 J 

7.00 

7.42 

8.2a 
'10.00 
10.30 
11.10 
]. .45 
n.20 p : 
12.55 
I 1.40 



00 E 
22 
,37 
,57 
,15 
,30 
,46 
,05 
,20 + 
,05 
,30 
,50 
24 
,35 
,00 
13 
29 
48 
08 
24 
45 
05 A M 
50 
10 
36 
55 
20 
40 
10 



573 
.581 
588 
595 
602 
606 
611 
614 
623 
630 
638 
645 
652 
656 
662 
669 
675 
680 
688 
694 
702 
709 
716 
723 
730 
737 
744 
7.52 
761 



. . . *Laramie Av 

Howell 

. ..*Wyoming 

Huttons 

*Cooper's Lake 

. . .*Lookout 

Harper's 

*Miser 

..*Rock Creek 

Wilcox 

Aurora 

*Medicine Bow 

.Niles Junction 

. ...*Carbon 

Simpson 

*Percy 

Dana 

*Edson 

....Wolcott 

. . .Fort Steele 

. . . Grennville 

. . .*Rawlins 

Solon 

. . *Separation 

. . .Fillmore 

. . .*Creston 

. . ..Latham 

.*Wash-a-kie 

.*Red Desert 



7123 


11.20 


3.15 


7090 


11.00 


2.38 


7068 


10.46 


2.10 


7048 


10.30 


1 42 


7044 


10.14 


1.15 


7169 


10.00 


6.45 


71'iO 


9.42 


12.15 A M 


6810 


9.20 


11.40 


6690 


9.05 + 


11.13 


7033 


8.22 


10.35 


6680 


8.00 


9.55 


6550 


7.42 


9.00 


6540 


7 ''2 


8.25 


6750 


7.14 


8.10 


6898 


6.. 55 


7.42 


6950 


6.40 


7.22 


6875 


6.23 


6.55 


6751 


6.00 


6.20 


6800 


5.37 


5.45 


6840 


5.20 


5.19 


6560 


4.59 


4.43 


6732 


4 40 


4.10 


3821 


4.C6 


2.55 


3900 


3.35 


2.15 


3885 


3.10 


1.35 


7030 


2.50 


1.05 


mm 


2.20 


12.20 p n 


6697 


1.50 


11.40 


67lO 


1.20 


10.57 



266 



OVERLAND TIMK TABLE. 



UNION PACIFIC LARAMIE I)IV, 

co-tM TiJsrxjuiiD. 
+ Meals. * Telegraph. 



WEST FROM OMAHA 


u 

da 
5° 


LARAMIE TIME. 


a 

d 

03 


EAST FROM CALIFORNIA. 




Daily 
Emigr'nt 


Daily 
Express 
lst&2dc's 


STATiOXS. 


Daily 

Express 
lst&2dc'8 


Daily 
Emigr'nt 






2.15 
2.50 
3.15 
3.35 
4.18 
4.40 
5.08 
5.32 
G.OO 
G.30 
7.00 
7 40 
8. IOp Mi- 


3.35 
3.57 
4.12 

4.26 
4.53 
5.08 
5.25 
5.40 
G.OO 
6.20 
6.40 
7.05 
7.25 + 


768 
775 

780 
785 
794 
798 
805 
810 
817 
825 
831 
839 
845 


Tipton • 

*Table Rock 

Monell 

*Bitter Creek 

*Black Bnttes 

Hallville 

*Point of Rocks 

Thayer 

*Salt Wells 

Baxter 

*Rock Springs 

Wilkins 

Ar Green River Lv 


6800 
6890 
6785 
6685 
6600 
6590 
6490 
6425 
6360 
6300 
6280 
6200 
0140 


1.0' 
12.3 
12. lu 
12.01 A M 
11.35 
11.20 
11.00 
10.45 
10.25 
10.02 

9.45 

9.18 

9.00 + 


10.30 
9.50 
9.24 
8.40 
7., 55 
7.30 
7.00 
6.32 
6 00 
5.28 
4.55 
4.15 
3.45 

























































AVESTERN DIVISION. 

W. B. Doddridge, Div. Supt Evanstox. 



8.40 P 

9.25 

9.55 
10.25 
11.10 
11.55 
12.25 A 

1.10 

1.55 

2.15 

3.00 

4.00 

4.30 

4., 50 

5.40 

G.18 

G.47 

7.10 

8.00 

8.35 t 

9.35 
10.55 
11.40 
12.35 P 

1.00 

1.30 

2.10 f 



45 PMt 


845 


12 


853 


30 


858 


50 


866 


15 


870 


45 


887 


05 


89G 


35 


904 


00 


913 


15 


918 


45 


928 


25 P M 


937 


42 


942 


55 


945 


25 t 


955 


55 


956 


10 


961 


25 


966 


58 


975 


20 


982 


50 


991 


20 


999 


45 


1007 


05 


1015 


18 


1019 


40 


1024 


00 -f 


1032 



Lv *Green River Ar 

Peru 

*Bryan 

Marston 

*Granger 

*Church Bnttes 

Hampton 

*Carter 

"Bridger 

Lei-oy 

*Piedmoiit, 

*Aspen 

*Hilliard 

Millis 

*Evanston 

Almy Junction 

Midway 

* Wasatch 

*Castle Rock 

*Emory 

*Echo 

*Croydon 

* Weber 

*Peterson 

Devil's Gate 

*Uiutah 

Ar *Ogden Lv 




Utah & Noi-tliern Branch 
U. P. R'Y. 



NORTH- 


a: 


WARD. 




Pass'ngr 


(^ 


7.00 P M 




7.30 


9 


8.15 


21 


10.55 


58 


12.40 


80 


5.45 A M 


1.58 


6.55 


181 


8.45 


206 


10.50 


245 


12.40 P M 


274 


5. 20 


350 


7.20 


380 


10.30 p M 


416 



^ STATIONS. 



Lv.tOgden. Ar 
.Hot Springs 
. . .Brighaui. . 

Logan 

. . .Franklin. . 
. ..Pocatello. . 
. .+Blackfoot. 
..Eagle Rock. 
.... Camas . . . 
iBeaver Canon 
....f Dillon... 

Melrose... 

Ar.. Butte. .Lv 



SOUTH- 
WARD. 



Pass'ngr 



7.45 A M 

7.00 

6.30 

3.40 

2.20 

9.08 

7.30 

6.10 P M 

4.00 

2.25 

9.25 

7^05 

4.20 A M 



UTAH CENTRAL R. R. 



SOUTHWARD - 






NORTHWARD 


DAILY. 


0) 


STATIONS- 


DAILY. 


Pass'ngr 


Pass'ngr 


§ 




Pass'ngr 


Pass'ngr 


6.20 P M 


9.40 A M 


Lv. Ogden..Ar 


9.00 A M 


5.40 P M 


7.10 


10.31 


16 


. ..Kays villa . . 


8.12 


4.52 


7.31 


10.. 52 


21 


. ,Farmington . 


7.50 


4.33 


7.44 


11.04 


26 


..Centreville. . 


7.33 


4.16 


7.53 


11.13 


28 


Wood's Cros'g 


7.25 


4.08 


8.20 P M 11.40 A M 


37 


Ar.S'ltL'k.Lv 


7.00 A M 


3.40 P M 



J8S" At Salt Lake City connection is made with the 
Utah Southern Railroad for "Frisco, Silver Reef (or Leeds) 
and all points in Southern Utah, Southeastern Nevada 
and Northern Arizona. 



OVERLAND TIME TABLE. 



267 



CENTRAL PACIFIC SALT LAKE DIV. 

A. G. FelI/, Divinion Supt., Ogden, Utah. 
+ Day Telegraph. t Day and Nigh t Telegraph. * Meals. 



WEST FKOM OMAHA. 



Daily 
Einigr'nt 



2.00*PM 

2.40 

2.05 

3.40 

4.10 

4.. 55 

6.00 

7.10 

7.55 

8.25 

9.00 

9.30 
10.40 
11.30 
12.25 A M 

2.30 

3.25 

4.25 

5.15 

6.20 

7.15 

8.05 

8.35 

9.00 

9.30 

9.45 
10.15 



Daily Ex 

Ist &2d 

Class. 



00* PM 

23 

42 

03 

23 

45 

30 

59 

25 

42 

58 

15 

00 

30 

01 A M 

35 

00 

35 

10 

55 

30 

03 

22 

37 

55 
.02 
.20 A M 



o » 

•So 



1032 
1041 
1048 
1056 
1064 
1075 
1084 
1092 
1101 
1108 
1116 
1123 
1135 
1145 
1159 
1166 
1179 
1188 
1198 
1207 
1214 
1224 
1230 
1235 
1241 
1244 
1250 



SACRAMENTO TIME. 



STATIONS. 



t Ogden Av 

Bonneville 

Brighaui 

tCorinne 

Quarry 

...tBlue Creek 

. . .; Promontory 

Rozel 

Lake 

. Monument Point 

Seco 

tKelton 

Ombey 

Matlin 

JTerrace 

Bovine 

Lucin 

tTecoma 

Montello 

Loray .• 

JToano 

Pequop 

+ Otego 

. . .Independence 

Moors 

Cedar 

:Wells Lv 



w 



4340 
4251 
4240 
4229 
4271 
4379 
4905 
4588 
4223 
4226 
4224 
4222 
4310 
4630 
4619 
4346 
4494 
4812 
4999 
5555 
5970 
6183 
61.53 
6004 
6118 

5628 



EAST FROM CALIFORNIA. 



Daily Ex 

1st &2d 

Class. 



8.30* AM 

8.07 

7.50 

7.30 

7.12 

0.50 

0.15 

5.45 

5.15 

5.01 

4.45 

4.30 

4.05 

3.40 

3.00 

2.30 

2.05 

1..S5 

1.08 
12.40 
12.15 A M 
11.50 
11.33 
11.15 
10.. 55 
10.45 
10.20 P M 



Daily 
Emigr'nt 



8.00 A M 

7.20 

6.55 

6.10 

5.40 

5.00 

3.40 

2.55 

2.05 

1.25 
12.45 
12.05 AM 
10.40 

9.55 

8.30 

7.35 

6.55 

6.10 

5.25 

4.40 

4.05 

3.20 

2.55 

2.25 

1.50 

1.35 

1.00 P M 



HUMBOLDT DIVISION. 

G. W. CODDINGTON, Division Sunt 



.Cablin, Nev. 





12.30 p M 

1.05 

1.30 

2.10 

2.32 

3.10 

3.25 

4.15 

4.25 

5.55 

6.50 

8.10 

8.. 50 

9.25 
,0.05 
|0.55 
^1.55 
l2.15 AM 
J2..55 
n.30 

1.33 

3.30 

4.13 

4.40 A M 


5.30 A M 

5.45 

5.. 55 

6.11 

G.20 

G.38 

6.47 

7.14 

7.34 

8.18 

8.46 

9.20 

9.41 
10.00 
10.21 
10.45 
11.11 
11.22 
11.37 
11.52 
12.20 P M 
12.45 

1.08 

1.20 


125J 

1238 
1263 
1270 
1278 
1283 
1287 
1298 
1307 
1319 
1330 
1339 


Lv tWells Ar 


26-.8 
2483 
5400 
5340 


10.10 p M 
9.50 
9.40 
9.25 
9.16 
8.:. 7 
8.47 
8.20 
7.40 
7.16 
6.40 
6.15 
5.55 
5.36 
5.16 
4.54 
4.30 
4.21 
4.08 
3.55 
3.30 
3.03 
2.40 
2.30 P M 


12. 3J P M 

11.50 

11.25 

10.45 

10.25 

9.50 

9.35 

8.40 

7.54 

7.00 

5.20 

4.40 

3.45 

3.05 

2.20 

1.30 
12.35 
12.15 A M 
11.45 
11.15 
10.25 

9.35 

8.55 

8.30 P M 






Tulasco 












Deeth 












tHalleck 


5227 
5204 
5135 
5065 
4981 
4903 
4840 
4766 
4690 
4636 
4548 
4508 
4506 
4505 
4505 
4421 
4375 
4387 
4315 






Peko 












*Elko 













iCarlin 












1349 
1358 
1368 
1379 
1390 
1395 
1403 
1410 
1423 
1436 
1445 
1451 


Cluro 
























tBattle Mountain 

Piute 






















Iron Point 












Tule 






Ar. . . . JWinnemucca Lv' 















TRUCKEE DIVISION. 

Frank Free, Division Supt Wadswqrth, Nev. 



5.30 A 


M 


6.15 




6.55 




7.25 




8.15 




9.00 




10.10 





1.30 P M 


1451 


1.55 


1461 


2.18 


1471 


2.32 


1478 


2.55 


1491 


3.42 


1502 


4.03 


1513 



Lv Winnemueca Ar 

Rose Creek ..... 

Raspberry 

tMill Creek 

tHumboldt 

+Rye Patch 

tOreana 



4315] 2.20 P M 
4331 1.55 
4322 1..33 
43.7 1.16 
4228 12.. 50 
4233 12.05 
4256111.40 P M 



7.35 
0.50 
6.08 
5.35 
4.45 
3.42 
2.55 P M 



•268 



OVERLAND TIME TABLE. 



CENTRAL PACIFIC TRUCKEE DIV. 

COnSTTIlTTJEID. 



t Day telegraph. 



I Day aud night telegraph. 



Meals. 



"WEST FBOM OMAHA. 


3 J 


SACEAMENTO TIME. 


a 


EAST FBOM CALIFORNIA. 




Daily 
Emigr'nt 
& Freight 


Daily 
Express 
lst&2dc's 


STATIOXS. 


3 


Daily 
Expi-ess 

lst&2dc's 


Daily 
Emigr'nt 
& Freight 






11.10 A M 

11.55 
12.35 P M 

1.35 

2.10 

2.40 

3.35 

4.. 30 

5.30 

6.00 

6.30 

7.2.5 

8.. 50 

9.40 

9.55 
10.30 
10.50 
11.20 
11.30 
11.55 

12.10 A M 


4.28 P M 

4.45 

5.03 

5.30 

5.50 

6.05 

6.30 

6.44 

7.00 

7.17 

7.35 

8.02 

8.50 

9.20 

9.25 

9.48 
10.03 
10.25 
10.30 
10.47 
10.55 P M 


1524 
1533 
1540 
1552 
15.59 
1567 
1577 
1584 
1586 
1593 
1601 
1613 
1622 
1631 
1632 
1639 
1641 
1647 
1649 
1652 
1655 


tLovelocks 

Granite Point 

f Brown's 

White Plains 

Mirage 

tHot Springs 


3977 11.10 
3917 10.50 
3925 10.30 
3893 10.00 
4199 9.43 
4070 9.27 
4017! 9-00 
41.55 i 8.46 
4077; 8.30 
41301 8.10 
4263; 7.51 
4403: 7.20 
45071 6.30 
4927i 6.00 


1.50 

1.10 

12.35 P M 
11.35 
11.00 
10.20 

9.25 

8.55 

8.00 

7.30 

7.00 

6.10 

4.55 

4.15 

4.10 

3.45 

3.30 

3.05 

2.58 

2.42 

2.30 






























Two Mile Station 

t Wadsworth 

Salvia 

Clark's 


















Vista 






;Eeno 






tVerdi. 








5010 
5216 
5340 
5533 
5610 
5720 
5845 


5.56 
5.40 
5.30 
5.13 
5.09 
4.57 
4.50 A M 






Mystic 












+Boca 






tProsser Creek 

Proctors 










Ar jTruckee Lv 





SACRAMENTO DIVISION 

J. B. Wbight, Div. Supt Sacramento. 



1.55 A 
2.45 
3.45 
4.00 
4.20 
4.40 
5.00 
5.45 
6.30 
7.00 
7.35 
7.45 
8.00 
8.30 
9.00 
9.25 
9.35 
9.55 
10.10 
10.. 55 
11.25 
11.45 
12.05 
12.35 P 
1.00 
1.20 
1.50 
2.10 
2.30 P 



11.05 P : 

11.30 

12.08 A : 

12.16 

12 27 

12.41 

12.53 

1.25 

2.00 

2.20 

2.40 

2.50 

3.00 

3.25 

3.45 

3.57 

4.05 

4.18 

4.30 

4.55 

3.15 

5.27 

5.37 

5.55 

6.05 

6.15 

6.33 

6.45 

6.55 A 



1655 
1662 

1671 

1673 

1675 

1679 

1683 

1691 

1697 

1702 

1706 

1708 

1710 

1617 

1721 

1724 

162 

1728 

1732 

17 9 

1744 

1747 

1730 

1752 

1757 

1760 

1767 

1771 

1775 



JTruckee 

btroug's Canyon 

t Summit 

Soda Springs 

Cascade 

Tamarack 

JCisco 

;Emigrant Gap 

;Blue Canyon 

Sandy Run 

tAlta 

Dutch Flat 

+GoUi Run 

C. H. Mills 

f Colfax 

Lauder 

N. E. Mills 

Apijlegate 

Clipper Gap 

t Auburn 

f New Castle 

Penryn 

Pino 

tRocklin 

t Junction 

Antelope 

Arcade 

tA. BI. Bridge 

Ar Sacramento Lv 



5845 
6780 
7017 



6519 
6i91 
5939 
5229 
4677 
4154 
3612jl2, 
3403 12 
3206 12 
2691 ill 
242111 
....111 
2280 1 10 
2000 10 
1759 10 
1362 10 
969 



40 

15 

45 

35 

23 

05 

50 

12 

25 

02 

40 

30 

20 A 

57 

15 * 

05 

57 

47 

38 

15 

55 

37 

25 

55 

42 

30 

15 

04 

55 P 



40 
00 

05 A M 
40 
25 
05 
45 
55 
25 
35 
25 
55 
35 
55 
20 
30 
10 
45 
25 
40 
00 
25 

05 P M 
00 
30 
05 
35 
.15 
00 A M 



Note.— There are two routes south from Sacramento. Passengers for Stockton, Lcs Angeles 
Southern California and intermediate points will take the route described on page 173. See 
Western Division time table, further on. Those for Pan Francisco du-ect, take route described on 
page 183— New Short Line. Time table on next page. 



OVEKLANB TIME TABLE. 



269- 



CENTRAL PACIFIC SHORT LINE via BENICIA. 



J. B. WKi&aT, Division Siipt., Sacbamento. 



* Trains 


stoiD on Signal. 


§ Trains ■will not stop. 


f Telegraph. 




J Meals. 


WEST FROM OMAHA. 


5° 


SAN FBANCISCO TIME. 
STATIOXS. 


6 


EAST FROM SAN FRAN'SCO 




Daily 
Emigr'nt 

& Fre'ght 


Daily Ex 

1st & 2d 

Class. 


Daily Ex 

1st & 2d 

Class. 


Daily 
Emigr'nt 
& Freight 






4.00 p M 

4.30 

4.40 

5.05 

5.20 

5.35 

6.20 

6.45 

7.15 

7.45 

8.05 

8.20 

8.25 

8.30 P M 


7.20 A M 
7.86 § 
7.45 
7.55 * 
8.05 
8.13 
8.25 
8.35 * 
8 50 
9.03 * 
9.16 * 
9.20 
9.28 
9.30 A M 


1776 
1784 
1789 
1793 
1797 
1800 
1805 
1809 
1816 
1821 
1826 
1830 
1831 
183", 


liv f Sacramento Ar 


30 
28 
25 
24 
25 
26 
26 
24 
24 
24 
26 
22 


7.30 P M 

7.12 § 

7.00 

6.50 

6.40 

6.31 

6.20 

6.11 

5.55 

5.44 

5.33 

5.19 * 


0.40 A M 

6.00 
5.30 
5.15 
4.55 
4.40 
4.18 
4.00 
3.30 
3.10 
2.53 
2.38 
2.34 








































Cannon 










Teal 




















10 5.17 § 








10 5.15 P M 2.30 A M 























Steam Ferry-Boat ** Solano" Across Straits of Carquinez. 

A. D. Wilder, Division Supt., Oakland Wharf. 



9.40 
9.52 
9.55 
10.03 
10.15 
10.30 
10.47 
10.04 



11.15 
11.22 
11.30 
11.45 
11.55 



6.05 



9.50 
9.56 
9.58 
10.04 
10.11 
10.20 
10.. 30 
10.40 



10.46 
10.49 
10.53 
11.00 



11.10 
11.35 



1833 tPort Costa 

1836 tValona 

1837 tVallejo Junction. 

1839 Tormey 

1841 tPinole 

1845 Sobrante 

1848 +San Pablo 

1852 Stege 

1853 Point Isabel 

1854 Highland 

1855 +Delaware St... 

1857 tStock Yards 

1859 +Oaklaud 16th St. . 

I860' West Oakland. . . 

1862 tOakland Wharf.. 

1865 + San Francisco . . . 



4.55 5 


1 40 

1.23 

1.21 

1.09 
12.55 
12.36 
12.18 A M 
11.59 




4.47 § 
■ 4.45 






4.40 ? 




4.35 § 




4.29 § 




1 4.23 § 




4.15 § 








4.10 § 


11.47 
11.40 
11.30 
11.10 
11.00 




4.08 § 




4.04 § 




1 4.00 








3.. 50 




1 3.30 


5.30 P M 





Old Overlaiitl Route from Sacramento via Stockton . 

Seepage 173. 



.Western Div. 



11.50 A M,1776]Lv tSacramento Ar 

12.05 p M 1780 jBrighton 



12.13 
12.20 
12.33 * 
12.48 

1.00 

1.06 

1.20 * 

1.35 

1.55 t 



17841 Florin. 

1791' +Elk Grove.. 

1794' McConnell's. 

1802 :Galt 

1807 1 Acampo . . . 

1810 +Lodi 

1817 Castle 

1823 ^Stockton.. 

1832 tLathrop. 



2.10 p M 



1.55 

1.46 

1.34 

1.26 * 

1.12 

1.00 
12.50 
12.33 * 
12.21 p M 



25111.59 



Connect at Lathrop for the South. See pages 209 and 270. 




2 . 02 * 1835; Sau Joaquin Bridge 

2.14 18401 Banta 


11.35 
11.43 * 
58 12.51 






1 








2.20 1843i tTracy 






Connect at Tracy for San Francisco via Martinez. See pages 178 


xnd 270. 



2.25 

2.41 

3.02 * 

3.24 

3.40 

8.55 



11845 Ellis. 

18.50 Medway. . . 

18.58 tAltamont.. 

1 1867 f Livermore . 

1873 f.Pleasanton. 

1878 Sunol.... 



4.15 P Mtl884 +Niles. 



76 11.25 * 
357 11.09 
740 10.47 
485 10.25 
351 10.12 
170 10.00 

86 9.40 A M 



Connect at Niles for Sau Jose and Santa Clara Valleys. See page 180. 



270 



OVERLAND TIME TABLE. 



CENTRAL PACIFIC WESTERN DIVISION. 

C O 3Sr T I 3Sr TJ E ID . 
* Trains stop only on Signal. f Telegraph. § Trains will not stop. t Meals. 



WEST FROM OMAHA. 


1=^ 


SAK FRANCISCO TIME. 


< 


EAST FROM SAN FRA'CIS'O 






Daily 
Express 
lst&2dc's 




STATIONS, 


Daily 
E.xi^ress 
lst&2dc's 










5.27 
4.44 
4.50 
4.57 
5.08 


1887 
1893 
1896 
1899 
1903 
1905 
1907 
1909 
1911 
1914 


Decota 

tHaward's 


71 
48 
32 
48 
20 
12 
13 
12 
10 


9.33 

9.18 
9.12 
9.06 
8.56 
8.50 
8.40 
8.34 
8.20 

8.00 A M 






.... . 


















fSan Leanclro 


















5 15 


+East Oakland 

tOakland 

tWest Oakland 

{Oakland Wharf 

Ar fSau Francisco Lv 










5.24 
5.30 
5.43 
6.05 P M 








































TOWARDS SUNRISE— (See page '209. 

CENTRAL PACIFIC WESTERN DIV. 

Northern Railway and San Pablo and Tulare Railroad. 



FROM SAN FRANCISCO. 



Daily 
Emigr'nt 
& Freight 
4.30"p^ 



Daily 
Express 

lsti!v:2dc's 



7.15 

7.25 

7.46 

8.03 

8.15 

8.30 

8.55 

9.15 

9.30 

9.46 
10.00 
10.33 
10.53 
11.30 
11.59 
12.43 A M 

1.15 

1.30 

2.15 



9.30 A M 

9.50 
10.00 
10.06 § 
10.20 * 
10.30 
10.40 * 
10.49 * 
11.04 
11.13 
11.22 
11.30 * 
11.38 * 
11.58 
12.10 P M 
12.28 
12.38 
12.56 

1.10 

1.10 * 

1.35 1 



SAN FRANCISCO TIME. 



STATIOXS. 



Lv. 



. . . + San Francisco. . 
. .{Oakland Wharf.. 
,+Oaklaud (IGth St) 

+ Stock Yards. . . . 

Stege 

tSan Pablo 

Sobraute , 

f Pinole , 

. .tVallejo Junction. 

iPort Costa 

tMartinez 

lAvon , 

iBay Point 

tCornwall 

tAntiochj , 

, tBreutwood 

IByron 

fBethany.... , 

f Tracy 

fBauta 

fLathrop , 



TOWARDS SANFKA'CISCO. 



Daily 
Emigr'nt 
& Freight 



6.05 A M 



4.45 

4.34 

4.10 

3.53 

3.38 

3.24 

3.02 

2.45 

2.29 

2.13 

1.59 

1.24 

1.03 

12.25 A M 
11.59 
11.10 
10.33 
10.15 

9.30 



CENTRAL PACIFIC VISALIA DIV 

W. W. Prugh, Ass. Div. Supt. 



3.15 A M 

3.41 

4.02 , 

4.16 

4.47 

5.09 

5.48 

0.45 

7.20 

8.20 

9.05 

9.32 
10.15 
ilO.46 
11.00 
ill. 50 
'12.35 P M 
I 1.15 

2.03 

2.38 

3.05 
I 3.50 P M 



2.00 P M 


94 


2.14 * 


99 


2.26 * 


104 


2.34 * 


107 


2.. 52 


114 


3.02 * 


118 


3.24 


127 


3.49 * 


137 


4.00 


144 


4.25 


151 


4.55 


161 


5.10 * 


168 


5.35 


177' 


5.. 55 


185 


6.27 


187 


0.46 * 


196 


7.07 


20() 


7.28 * 


216 


7.51 


226 


8.08 


234 


8.22 


240 


8.45 P M 


251 



Lv Lathrop Ar 

Morrano 

Ripou 

Salida 

tModesto 

Ceres 

ITurlock 

Chessey 

Atwater 

fMerced 

tAthlor.e 

Minturn 

Berenda 

fMadera 

f Barden 

Sycamore 

tFresno 

Fowler 

t Kingsbnrg 

Cross Creek 

tGoshen 

Lv fTulare Ar 



IZl 



,35 A 
,23 * 
,12 * 
.05 * 
,45 
.38 * 
.18 
.54 * 
.38 
.55 t 
.38 
.19 * 
.58 
.43 
.35 
.16 * 
.55 
.35 * 
.13 
.55 
.43 
.20 A 



8.00 : 
7.35 
7.14 
7.00 
6.28 
6.06 
5.25 
4.38 
4.06 
3.20 
2.30 
2.00 
1.17 
12.45 
12.32 
11.50 
11.07 
10.24 
9.36 
9.00 
8.33 
7.45 



OVERLAND TIME TABLE. 



271 



SOUTHERN PACIFIC TULARA DIV. 

+ Telegraph. * Trains stop only on signal. § Trains will not stop. I Meals. 



FEOM SAN FBANCISCO. 



Daily 
Emigi-tit 
& Freight 



4.30 P M 

.5.23 

0.23 

7.05 

8.04 

8.45 
10.00 
11.17 
12.01 A M 

1.05 

1.45 

2.39 

3.15 

4.00 

4.54 

6.00 



Daily 
Express 
lst&2dc's 



8.50 P M 
9.11 
9.35 

9.51 * 
10.14 * 
10.30 
10.55 
11.17 
11.35 
11.59 
12.40 A M 

1.23 

1.52 * 
2.30 
2.57 * 
3.30 A M 



X o3 

Qm 
251 
261 
273 
281 
293 
301 
314 
321 
329 
336 
341 
349 
355 
361 
370 
381 



SAN FRANCISCO TIME. 



STATIONS. 



Lv tTulare Ar 

Tipton 

Alila 

+Delauo 

IPoso 

Lerdo 

t Sumner 

Wade 

Pampa 

tCaliente 

Bealville 

+ Keene 

Girara 

. . .tTehachapia Summit... 

Cameron 

Ar tMojava Lv 



TOWARDS SAN FBA'CISCO. 



Daily 
Express 
lst&2dc's 



313 



415 
1290 



3964 

2757 



4.15 A M 
3.. 52 

3.27 * 
3.10 
2.45 

2.28 * 
2.03 
1.40 
1.30 * 
1.05 

12.40 
12.05 A M 
11.40 * 
11.10 
10.39 * 
10.00 



Daily 
Emigr'nt 
& Freight 



7.15 A M 

6.23 

5.24 

4.43 

3.45 

3.03 

2.03 

*12.45am 
11.35 
10.40 
10.04 

9.13 

8.40 

8.00 

7.03 

6.00 P M 



LOS ANGELES DIVISION. 

E. E. Hewitt, Asst. Swpt Los Angeles. 



7.00 A M 

7.50 * 

8.30 

9.30 * 
10.00 * 
10.30 * 
10.50 
11.55 
12.50 p M 

1.15 * 

1.45 

2.35 * 

3.10 



5.30 
6.00 
6.10 
6.15 
6.35 
7.10 
7.25 
8.00 
9.00 
10.20 
11.15 
12.01 
12.30 
1.00 
1.35 
2.05 
3.00 
3.45 
4.40 
5.55 
6.45 
8.05 
8.30 
8.52 
9.35 
10.25 
10.50 
11.15 
11.30 
12. oi 



AM* 



3.35 A M 
4.05 * 
4.30 
5.10 * 
5.25 * 
5.40 * 
5.50 
6.10 * 
6.40 
6.55 * 
7.10 
7.32 * 
7.55 A M 



8.25 X 



55 
00 
15 
37 
47 
10 
45 
10 * 
45 

15 p M 
37 

,50 * 
10 * 
,28 * 
,50 * 
,15 * 
,45 
,20 
45 

,25 * 
40 * 
,00 * 
25 * 
55 * 
15 * 
,30 
,40 
,00 t 



Lv tMojava Ar 

Sand Creek 

f Lancaster 

Alpine 

Vincent 

Acton 

tRavena 

Lang 

tNewhall 

S. F. Tunnel 

+San Fernando 

SeiJulveda 

Ar +Los Angeles Lv 



Lv Los Angeles Ar 

San Gabriel 

I^Savanna 

tMoute 

Puente 

tSpadra 

tPomona 

Cucamonga 

tColton 

Mound City 

El Casco 

San Gorgonio 

Banning 

Cabazon 

White Water 

Seven Palms 

Dry Camp 

Indio I 

Walters ^ ^ 

+Do3 Palmas }°a 

Frink's Sjjring.. I j^'^ 

Flowering Well. J 

Tortuga 

Mammoth Tank 

Mesquite 

Cactus 

Oailby 

Pilot Knob 

El Rio 

Ar fYuma Lv 



2751 
2315 
2350 
2823 



3211 
2350 
1681 
1152 
1469 
1066 
461 
265 
¥65 
400 



260 
323 
706 
856 
952 
965 
1055 
1874 
2592 



1779 
1120 
584 



9. 85 p M 
9.12 * 
8.45 
8.20 * 
8.08 * 
7.50 * 
7.35 
7.10 * 
6.40 
0.25 * 
6.03 
5.. 35 * 
5.15 P M 



.45 : 

.23 

.18 

.15 

.00 

.36 

.28 

.05 

.00 I 

.50 

.17 

..55 

..37 

.17 * 

..50 * 

.25 * 

..55 * 

.33 * 

.00 

.15 

..50 * 

.05 

..50 * 

.35 * 

.05 * 

.30 * 

.10 * 

.55 •= 

.45 

.30AMJ 



4.45 P M 


3.45 * 


3.00 


2.10 * 


1.45 * 


1.05 * 


12.43 P M 


11.. 55 


10.55 


10.25 


10.00 


9.15 * 


8.45 A M 
4.15 A M 


3.40 


3.30 


3.25 


3.00 * 


2.20 


2.05 


1..30 * 


12.15 


L2.01 AM* 


LI. 15 


L0.25 * 


9. .50 * 


9.20 * 


8.35 * 


8.00 * 


7.15 * 


0.35 


5.45 ■ 


4.25 


3.45 


2.25 * 


2.00 * 


1.40 * 


1.00 * 


12.02 PM* 


LI. 40 


11.15 


11.00 


L0.30 A M 



272 



OVERLAND TIME TABLE. 



SOUTHERN PACIFIC GILA AND TUCSON DIV. 

A. A. Bean, Asst. Supt , Tucson. 
I Meals. * Trains stop on signal. , Telegraph. 



FROM SAN FBANCISCO. 



Daily 



Daily 



Em^^t ,^^- 



5.00 pm: 

6.03 * 

7.11 * 

7. .55 * 

9.0 * 

9.31 * 
10.30 
11.18 * 
11.42 * 
12.53 A M 

2.00 

3.15 * 

3.. 57 

4.40 

5.. 50 

7.20 * 

8.10 

8.50 * 

9.30 * 
10.30 
11.28 * 
12.30 P M 

2.00 pm; 

3.25 * 

4.38 

5.30 

6.15 

8.20 * 

9.05 

9.55 
10.57 
11.45 * 

I 1.15 AM 

(1.45 



6.12 
6.57 * 
7.30 * 
8.18 
8. .53 * 
9.40 * 
10.15 A M 



lst&2cle's 



7.30 pm; 
8.03 * 

6.42 * 
9.05 * 

9.43 * 
10.00 * 
10.30 
10.52 * 
11.03 * 
11.37 * 
12.15 A M 
12.39 * 

1.03 * 

1.25 * 

1.47 

2.23 

2.50 

3.13 * 

3.36 * 

4.10 * 

4.50 * 

5.30 A M 

0.00 am; 

C.46 * 

7.29 

7. .58 * 

8.25 

8. .55 * 

9.25 * 

9. .56 * 
10.30 
10.. 55 

I 11.45 

(■12.10pm 
12.52 

1.32 * 

2.12 

2^25 

2.50 * 

3.15 * 

3.46 * 

4.10 * 

4.38 * 

5.00 pm; 



as 

O d 

Si Sh 

m a 

730 

744 

760 

770 

787 

793 

806 

815 

820 

834 

850 

859 

869 

878 

887 

902 

913 

922 

931 

945 

961 

978 

978 

993 

1006 

1015 

1024 

1034 

1043 

1053 

1064 

1072 

1088 

1103 
1118 
1133 
1137 
1148 
1157 
1169 
1178 
1189 
1197 



SAN FBANCISCO TIME. 



STATIONS. 



Ar. 
Lv. 



+Yuma Ar 

Gila City 

Adonde 

Tacna 

.Mohawk Summit... 

Texas Hill 

Aztec 

Stanwi.K 

Sentinel 

. . Painted Bock 

Gila Bend 

Bosque 

Estrella 

Montezuma 

tMaricopa 

. .Sweet Water 

. . . 1 Casa Grande 

Toltec 

Picacho 

Bed Bock 

BiUito 

;Tiicson liV 

;Tucson Ar 

Papago 

tPantano 

Mescal 

tBenson 

Ochoa 

.Dragoon Summit... 

Cachise 

+Wilcox 

..Bailroad Pass. 



.Bowie 



Ar. 



.fSan Simon 

. .Steins Pass 

. . .Pyramid 

.+Lordsburgh 

Lisbon 

Separ 

Wilna 

Gage 

Tunis 

. ..;Deming Lv 



TOWABD SAN FBANCISCO 



Daily 
Express 
lst&2dc's 



5.00; am 
4.27 
3.48 * 
3.24 * 

2.45 * 
2.32 * 
2.00 * 
1.37 * 
4.27 * 

12.53 
12.15 A M 
11.50 * 
11 25 * 
11.00 * 
10.35 

9. .55 * 

9.25 

9 00 * 

8.35 * 

7.57 

7.15 * 

6. .30 PM 

6.001PM 

5.15 * 
4.38 
4.10 * 
3.45 

3.16 * 
2.48 * 
2.19 *+ 

1.46 ; 

1 ''2 * 
J 12.35 

I 12.10pm 
11.25 
10.43 * 
10.00 * 

9.48 

9.18 * 

8.53 * 
8.18 

7.54 * 
7.22 * 
7.00; AM 



Daily 
Emigr'nt 



5.45 A M 

4.27 

2.55 * 

1.55 * 
12.22* AM 
11.45 * 
10.30 

9.40 * 

9.17 * 

8.05 * 

6.15 

5.30 * 

4.48 * 

4.05 * 

3.25 

2.10 * 

1.15 

12.27*PM 
11.40 * 
10.30 

8.50 * 

7.00 A M 

5.00 A M 

3.57 * 

3.00 

2.20 
12.15 
11.27 * 
10.44 * 

9.55 

9.03 

8.23 * 
J 7.05 

I 6.35 

5.18 

4.05 * 

3.00 * 

2.25 

1.40 * 

1.00 * 
]2.12*PM 
11.35 * 
10.48 * 
10.15 A M 



Trains xoest of Deming run on San Francisco time. Those east of Doming on Jefferson City 
(Mo.) time, which is tivo hours faster than San Francisco time. 

SOUTHERN PACIFIC RIO GRANDE DIV. 

James Campbell, Asst. Su2)t., El Paso. 



12 


30 


pm; 


1 


15 




2 


15 


* 


3 


10 


* 


4 


00 


* 


4 


40 


1! 


5 


30 


* 


6 


10 


* 


6 


30 


P M 



7.45 pm; 


1197 


8.08 * 


1208 


8.42 * 


1223 


9.12 * 


1236 


9.40 * 


1249 


10.01 * 


1258 


10.30 * 


1271 


11.00 * 


1281 


11.15 P M 


1285 



Lv. 



.tDeraing Ar 

. . . Zuni 

. Cambray 

. . .Aden 

. . . Afton 

. . Lanark 

. .Strauss 

. .Bogers 

.lEl Paso Lv 



232.2 
221.2 
206.2 
192.8 
180.7 
171.0 
158.5 
148.5 
144.0 



8.00; 
7.35 
7.00 
6.30 
0.02 
5.40 
5.10 
4.43 
4.30 



OO; PM 
15 

12* PM 
15 * 
22 * 
40 * 
48 * 
05 * 

45; AM 



OVERLAND TIME TABLE. 



273 



ATCHISON, TOPEKA & SANTA FE RAILROAD, 


DEMING TO KANSAS CITY 


CO 

1149 
1110 
1097 
1021 
994 
938 
918 
902 


STATIONS. 

t Meals. 


a 
p 

> 


KANSAS CITY TO DEMING. 


• 


Emigr'nt 


Express 


Express 


Emigr'nt 






12.30 P M 

3.20 

5.00 
11.45 

1.32 A M 

5.12 

7.15 

8.24 


8.00 P M 
9.34 
10.05 
1.15 A M 
2.25 
4.50 
5.40 
6.19 


Iiv Deniiiig Ar 




7.45 AM-t 
5.38 
4.43 
1.15 

12.10 A M 

9.52 
9.05 
8.26 


7.00 A M 

3.45 

2.30 

8.00 

5.00 

12.08 P M 
10.30 A M 

8.24 


















San Marcial 


4665 
4914 
5006 
5104 
















Albuquerque 

Bernalillo 










10 03 

1.00 P M 

2.10 

8.25 
11.00 
12.40 A M 

7.05 


7.10 
9.00 + 
10.07 
1.25 p M 
2.. 50 
3.50 
6.42 


881 
851 
841 
786 
758 
741 
681 




5329! 7.35 
65311 6.05 f 
75.37 4.50 
6452 14.'; + 


7.10 
4.47 
3.20 
8.45 
6.05 

4.40 P M 
11.35 A M 




























12.01 P M 
n ns A AT 






Wagon Mound 

Otero 


6247 






....j 8.32 






8.00 
11.50 A M 

6.50 P M 

8.20 

8.40 P M 
12.45 A M 


7.20 -t 
9.40 P M 
2.00 A M 
2.55 
3.05 
5.35 


076 
652 

571 
552 
548 
497 
484 
458 
425 
418 
406 
387 
369 
333 
325 
319 
308 
299 
286 
276 
205 
253 
245 




66881 8.20 + 
6034' ^ ^ri 


11.10 

8.00 

12.30 A M 
10.35 
10.16 

6.50 
















1.00 
11 a.=; A M 






West Las Animas 

Las Animas 

Granada 








39.59 11.30 
3468 8.45 










1.45 
3.45 
6.18 
7.10 
8.10 
9.30 

11.00 A M 

2.10 P M 

2.40 

3.05 

3.50 

4.28 

5.22 

6.05 

6.50 

7.40 

8.10 P M 


6.30 t 

7.43 

9.10 

9.25 

9.57 
10.43 
11.40 A M 

1.15 p M 

1.35 

1.52 

2.40 + 

3.04 

3.40 

4.08 

4.36 

5.10 

5.30 P M 


Lv Coolidge Ar 


3418 « nfi + 


5.40 

3.28 

1.00 

12.25 P M 
11.05 A M 

9.30 

7.40 

4.00 

3.22 

2.45 

1.47 

1.02 A M 
11.50 P M 
11.03 
10.18 

9.25 

8.50 P M 

7.40 

6.35 

5.40 

4.55 

4.10 

3.20 

2.30 
12.25 P M 

11.40 A M 

11.00 
9.35 
8.50 
8.15 
7.53 
7.37 
6.30 A M 








6 35 
.5 19. . 






Sherlock ' 


2925 






Garden City 


....| 4.55 
2800 4.25 
26.55 3.37 
2499 2.. 50 
2207, 1 T^ 
















Dodge City 
















1.10 
12.45 






Garfield 










2018 






Pawnee Hock 


1986 11.40 A M 
18.59 11.08 
1738 10.45 
1679 11.23 
1494 9.. 56 
....' 9.40 A M 
1482 9.07 
1410 8.30 
1.320 8.07 
1433 7.40 
1432 7.15 
1256 6.53 
1277 6.30 t 
1183 !'^ n.'^ 




























Ar Nickerson Lv 






9.15 
10.35 
11.25 P M 
12.15 A M 

1.00 

2.00 

3.00 

5.05 

5.48 

7.00 

8.00 

8.50 

9.30 

9.55 
10.15 
11.20 A M 


6.00 

6.35 

6.58 

7.38 

7.55 

8.20 

9.10 t 
10.12 
10.40 
11.10 
11.59 p M 
12.29 A M 
12.52 

1.05 

1.15 

2.00 A M 


"234 
220 
211 
201 
194 
184 
173 
148 
1.37 
128 
113 
101 
93 
88 
84 
67 
























Walton 




























4.35 
a in 








1101 








1074 3.20 
1082 2.. 53 
1050 9 33 






















2.20 
9 in 








1081 






Ar Topeka Lv 


9O4I 1.15 A M 






11.45 A M 

12.47 P M 
1.30 
4.38 P M 


2.25 A M 
3.04 
3.30 
5.30 A M 


67 
51 
40 



Lv Topeka Ar 


904 ]0. r,^ ■ 


6.00 A M 
4.35 
3.30 
12.05 A M 






] 


2.17 A M 
1.50 
0.00 P M 








] 






Ar Kansas City.... Lv 

Lv Topeka Ar 

Ar Atchison Lv 


765 1 








2.20 A M 

5.10 A M 


51 


904 12.50 A m| 
803 10.25 P mI 














* Junction for Santa Fe, 1 8 miles 


distant. ** Junction f 


3r Pueblo, Denver and Colorado. 



A., T. & S. F. R. R. Trains are run by JeSerson time, being 2 hours faster than San Fran'co time* 



274 



OVEKLAND TIME TABLE. 



TEXAS PACIFIC LliVE. 



FROM ST. LOUIS. 


02 
O 

s 


ST. LOUIS TIME. 


s 


FROM SAN FRANCISCO. 






Exxaress 


• 


STATIOXS. 


Express 




, 






9.00 A M 

9.26 
10.45 
12.17 P M 

1.15 

4.27 
8.29 

12.15 A M 

2.03 




i 

75 
89 
166 

262 
345 

388 


Lv. 


St. Louis 

Caroudelet 


2645 
2039 
2603 
2560 
2556 
2479 


0.00 P M 
5.20 
4.00 
2.40 

1..37 P M 
10 ni>. 


















Desoto 










Bismhrck 










Arcadia 










Poplar Blnff 












2383 j 5.37 
2300 1.35 A M 
2257'll.49 P-M 










Little Hock 










Ar.. 


. . ^i . . .Malvern 




















4.30 P M 


413 


Lv. 


Hot Si)rings Ar 


2282| 3.50 A M 










2.58 A M 
4.18 
G.50 A M 


410 
442 
490 


Lv. 


Ai-kadelphia 

Prescott 


2235 10.53 P M 
2030 9.32 
2155 7.00 P M 


















Ar.. 


Texarkana 











7.50 A M 
10.52 
10.40 

1.10 P M 

2.43 

3.55 

5.45 

0.33 

8.40 
10.10 
11.. 55 
12.55 A M 

3.25 

3.50 

5.05 

0.12 

7.. 58 

9.11 
11.15 
12.28 P M 

5.02 

5.50 

9.20 
10.. 50 

3.30 A M 


490 
548 
564 
587 
010 
033 
063 
679 
711 
743 
774 
798 
848 
858 
883 
903 
945 
972 
1012 
1032 
1143 
1163 


Lv.. 


Texarkana 

.Tefferson .... 


2155 

209 

2080 

2057 

2034 

2011 

1981 

1905 

1933 

1901 

1870 

1846 

1790 


0.30 P M 

3.37 

2.50 
11.30 
12.13 P M 
11.05 

9.30 

8.47 

6.50 

5.15 

3.36 

2.30 A M 
11. .50 


















Marshall 








Long view 










Big Saudv 




















Will's Poiut 










Terrell 










Dallas 










Ft. Worth 






























Eastland 










Cisco 


17SG'11.25 
1761 10.10 










Bau-d 








.»■ 


Abilene 


1741 
1699 

1672 
1032 


9.15 
7.25 
6.13 
4.10 




























Big Springs 












1612 3.05 P M 
1.5U1 10.30 




















Tovn h 


1482 
1412 
1377 
1286 


9.40 
6.05 
4.30 
12.10 A M 










T>^'^ 














1267 
1359 


Sierra Blanca 

El Paso 


















4.30 A M 

5.10 

8.00 


13.59 
1373 
1447 


El Paso 


1286 
1272 
1198 


ii.i'5J,p.:m 

10.30 
7.45 P M 











Ar.'. 


Strauss 

Deniing 


















7.00 
9.48 
11.25 
3.45 p M 


1447 
1507 
1541 
1620 
1666 


Lv. 
Ai". 


Deming 

Lordsburg 

Sau Simon 

Benson 

Tucson 


1198 
113 
1104 
1025 
979 


5.00 P M 
2 . 25 

12.52 P M 
8.25 
6.00 A M 


































0.00 P M 
6.30 p M 
10.35 










1666 

1757 


Lv. 
Ar.". 


Tucson 

Maricopa 

Yuma 


979 

888 
731 


5.30 A M 
1.47 A M 
7.30 P M 


















5.00 A M 


1914 








5.30 A M 
9.15 

12.55 p M 
1.50 
2.25 
3. 33 
4.23 
4.45 


1914 
2002 
2082 
2101 
2105 
2133 


Lv. 




731 
643 

563 


7.00 P M 
3.20 
12.15 p M 








Dor Palmnq .. 






















.... Mound City 


544!n.l0 










Colton 


540 
512 
492 
483 


11.00 
9.37 
8.48 
8.25 P M 


















2153 
2162 


Ar.". 












Los Angeles 












2162 


I.v 


Los Augeles 


483 
382 
315 
241 
186 


7.55 A M 
3.35 A M 
11 . 00 
8.22 
6 90 










10.00 

2.03 A M 

4.43 

6.43 
10 50 


22631 










2330 
2404 
24.59 
2550 




Sumner 


























Ar".. 


Lathroji 

San Fraucisco 


051 2.00 p M 










2.35 P M 


2645 





9 30 A M 


::;;;;:;::i;; 



OVERLAND TIME T.\BLE. 



275 



GALVESTON, H AKKISBURG & SAN ANTONIO— EL PASO I>IV. 

James CAMPBELii, Asst. Superintendent, El Paso. 
f Telegraph. * Trains stop only on signal. § Trains -will not stop. t Meals. 



FROM SAN FRANCISCO. 



Daily | Daily 
Emigrant; Express 
& Freight lst&2dc's ±1:2 



11.40 P M 128.3 
12.27 AM i:;u7 
1.02 * 1323 
1.20 * 331 
1.40 1339 

3.15 1372 

3.35 1377 



SAN FBANCISCO TIME. 



STATIONS. 



Lv +ElPaso Ar 

tSiiu Elizario 

Kio Grande 

Porter 

f Camp Rice 

Ethoieu 

Ar. . . . 'Sierra Blanoa Lv 



TOWARD SAN FRANCISCO. 



Daily 

Express 
lstifc2dc's 



3.50 
3.05 
2.23 
2.08 
1.40 
11.35 
11.20 



A M 
A M 



Daily 
Emigrant 
& Freight 



At Sierra Blanca the Texas & Pacific comes in from the East. 



5.17 1413, Haskell 

0.50 1145 Valentine 

9.00 1480 +Marfa 

10 . 30 1507 Mnrphy sville . . . 

11 .57 1539 tMarathon 

12.40 P M 15.55 tHaymond 

1.15 1567 IMaxon Springs. 

3.15 PMl-oOOlAr Sanderson — 



..Lv 



9.30 
7.55 
5 . 55 
4.30 
2.55 
2.10 
1.15 
11.25 



SAN ANTONIO DIVISION. 







3.3U P M 
4.20 
4.43 
6.05 


1.303 Lv. 
1614; ... 
1620' .... 
1643 .... 


Sanderson 


.Ar 




11 00 A M 


1 







10.27 
10.06 

8.57 

6.. 30 

4.18 

3.25 AM 









tDryden 

iLozier 






1 


















11 54 T^siJ, 














12.58 A M 


1747 Ar. 


tDelRio 


.Lv 










17i7 ^ .V 




Ar 




3.15 AM 

1.12 

12.07 AM 

10.08 p M 
9.07 

7.. 59 
7.00 
6.40 P M 








2.53 1784 .... 
4.02 1808 .... 
5.59 11846 .... 
7 05 iiSRT 


. . tSpofford .Juno . . 
tCline 


.. . . 

































S.22 

9.40 

10.00 A M 
11.00 AM 


1892 .... 
1913 .... 
1917 Ar. 

1917 Lv7 


+Lacote 

.1. & G. N. Crossing. 

San Antonio 

tSan Antonio 

tHouston 

777 Vermillion ville . . . 




.Lv 
.Ar 
.Lv 
'.Lv 
















1 






6.00 P 11 


1 




10.10 P M 

8.30 AM 


2133 Ar. 
2350 [ ArT 


6.45 A M 
7.10 PM 














'. . 




2J94;Ai-.. 


New Orleans 


.LVI....I 1 1 



The "li-.st. ; iie" connecting San Francisco and New Orleans, was driven January 12th, Ifr' 
The line ii > '.cnown as the "Sunset Route." 

At the i.r- f going to press the time tables ol the line east from San Antonio had not hi 
received, 1 will appear in future editions. 



Her 



.D Printing and Publishing Hoi 



/) • 



^/^iid^^^. 



Ppir^tiepg and Blanl\ BqoI^ Mar^ufaGfeupep^, 



Herald Building-, Fifteentli Street, 



Henry Gil 
Miller d- B 



ENGRA' IKo, 



PHINJ, 



/;■' 



